Appreciate the video. Some really good information. It's funny how people pick and choose what they believe when it comes to manufactures specifications. They trust rear axle torque spec ect but not oil change interval recommendation. Guys changing oil every 1000-3000 on street bikes has always seemed totally overboard to me and I'm sure all the oil companies love that people still have this misconception floating about. I personally use 7100 as it has more things inside it that's more beneficial to a street bike than absolute sheer strength like a track bike would prefer. Really is best of both worlds compared to a semi-synthetic. As you said 7100 might actually be the better choice for your bike but I'm glad you done this wee experiment. I also share the same opinion about oil and air filters as you.
Most of the guys that are changing their oil under 3000 miles are probably doing it annually. Most engine manufacturers recommend changing your oil annually or at XXXX miles. All my motorcycles, trucks, and Jeep list it that way.
Good review. I've used all kinds of motorcycle oils in the years I've ridden and since a couple months ago, I've decided to only stick with Motul 300V 10W40 for all three of my sportbikes. Your video confirms I'm in the right direction. Thanks.
Ive beem a yamaha tech , i filled up an gsxr with 300v , after that it was all yamahas so only yamalube , more than 8l of yamalube later and the funnel was still coated in green oil, aka 300v... the thing sticks to everything, damn awesome oil
@@SportbikeUnitedRiderz I was thinking in getting a good oil, since my commutes are on highways at 7000+rpm, in your opinion, would you recommend I go for the 300v or 7100?
Brilliant video well done, have recently started using this for my CRF450r supermoto and thought I’d never really know how good it actually is but now I do Thanks dude 👌🏻
Very informative I usually run amsoil On my S 1000 RR but decided to try the 300 V Just because that was in stock at the time . I think you just put my mind at ease just a bit thank you
I just started running motul 300v and will for the life of the bike good info all these guys on forums keep saying change 300v after a race weekend lol knowledge is power
Great video, very well done, very professional! The 8500 mile Oil analysis is proof in fact that Motul 300v is an outstanding oil for Motorcycles. It's not just somebody on UA-cam's opinion. Thank you for taking the time to make this video. I have a 2014 CBR1000RR SP...wanted to go with the 300v, went as far as purchasing 4 liters, then backed out and went with the Motul 7100. Reason being...300v is NOT JASO MA2 certified as required by Honda. What are your thoughts on this? I would value your professional opinion. Thanks again for a great video! By the way, the 7100 is Red in color!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching.The 7100 is also a great oil. It is also ester based which means it will have greater film strength than other oils. This is why the ester based oils are better. The CBR1000RR, a 14 like yours but not the SP, I use this oil in is prone to CCT noise. The reason for this is Honda doesn't supply a lot of oil to that area. Having an oil that clings better to the timing chain transports more lubricity to that hard to reach area. I don't have the clack I had with other oils by using the Motul. Proof of the film strength of the 300V is the lack of oil lash in the clutch as demonstrated in the middle of the video. Another oil 'starved' area of the CBR1000RR is the stator housing. There's barely any oil in there compared to other manufacturers. I feel better having an oil with premium lubricity in that area as well. The main difference between the two versions of Motul is the 7100 is a single ester and the 300v is a double ester. The double ester will have more film strength. This is achieved by having lower levels of detergent which, I believe but don't know this for certain, is the reason the 300v is not JASO certified. This is not a concern for me. I don't run the "race" style air filters which are little more than bug screens and do poorly, in my experience, with actual dirt. I'd rather have the better lubricity. As far as Honda corporate is concerned I could care less. I'm well out of warranty and they also certify their clearly inferior synthetic blend house offering for 8000 miles. That said; You wouldn't go wrong with the 7100 and frankly for most may be the better choice. I made my choice for the specific concerns stated above. One last note. I'd be interested in the formulation similarities of the 7100 vs Red Line which is also a single ester and ends up being red in color. The Red Line made my bike run hot by several degrees so if you decide to run the 7100 keep an eye on that.
go to motul.com and read the technical info of motul 300v the manufacturer tells us that 300v is beyond standard MA and MA2 (ma2 is for heavy duty ) thats why its beater and stays fresh !!!!
Which one do you prefer 300v or 7100 for motor bike? I used 7100 in my ninja and its great for shifting. In indonesia quite hot and ever 2000-2500km i change my engine oil
Great video! Im glad to see someone doing some actual scientific analysis and research rather than just opinion. Much appreciated! I use this oil in my 2014 KTM 500 XC-W and it works great. I was thinking about trying to extend the interval to get the most for the money as this stuff isn't cheap. I may do a "long" run and have it tested just for fun/verification. Id say its not much use to compare someone else's oil sample with yours, or at least take it with a grain of salt. Thanks again for the video!
I completely understand your point about comparing samples from other engines even when they are from the same model and gen as I did. I was surprised though by how linear all of the other results that I could find from others were. They were remarkably similar in ppm. Yes, I'm very happy to have the confidence to extend the interval knowing there is no damage occurring. Than you for your input, comment and for watching the video!
Man, I use Mobile 1 for cars for 22 years now. Never had a slip clutch problem. Still have my Kawasaki Ninja ZX9R B4, with 64k miles. My XLX350R run Mobil1 15w50 for 17k and other time at 18K miles on the same charge of oil, with tons of off roading. Sold the bike and it still running fine. The bikes are good. Same on the oil.
Good for you. I, and nearly everyone else that use this oil, notice a significant difference in the smoothness of shifting. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-camyep I got a street triple 2018 and did a oil swap from Mobil 1 as I’ve always used that for everything of mine and first thing I noticed was quick shifting and just shifting was like butter I literally felt my gear box have no slip or slop in it
I'm not surprised by these findings. I use their 800 two stroke oil and I'm on the original cylinder, ktm 300, at 715 hours. That's unheard off in a race two stroke bike. Great analysis BTW.
I’m mixing 50:1, regular premium pump gas. I’m at 830 hours now. I’m also using the 300v in KTM 450exc that I use for dual sporting. I go over the interval a little bit to 25 hours. I use their air filter oil as well, very sticky. Good stuff
Hi, I use zx10r gen 5 2016 bike. I do use this oil at first 3k km then change oil. Mix use track and regular driven. I noticed same thing that oil was still really green and by just looking at it, it can still be use. Now I change oil every 5k to 6k km. You can feel your own bike if it needs to change its oil, if needed dont finish 5k km.
Lmao it looks dark n gross, should be vibrant green haha, i spoke to motul ( i do 3-4 track days a year n only ride twisties on road) they said DO NOT let the oil go past 3500-4000km (2200 2500miles). They said not over 4000km because it wasnt designed for longevity.. It was for super immediate performance.. Motul 7100 is a street going hi perf full syn n can do 8000miles... 300v is a race oil ment to free up friction of parts, thus freeing horsepower, and be changed very soon.. If it was a track bike, depending you may change it after 5 track days or even after 1 track day.., 7100 shifts jus as well as 300v.. I do 4000km max incl track days)a season., so 1 $110 oil change is justfied... Its not JASO certified because its race oil.. Not meant to last very long , oddly enough it says 300v exceeds jaso standards.. Change it sooner n its godly
The very old 300v was very short life, that old formula have a lot of esters and additives, but at the same time not a big TBN reserve for longer intervals, the newer formula is NOT a fully racing oil like a Redline 30WT, they have a similar additive package and the TBN is high If you compare with the Rotella... the ester is present but not enough for became acidify prematurely. You can use this oil for 5k very good and 3k EASILY. Even the car version 300v is enough for 7000 miles.
@@FEGTTTSDH spot in 300V is great for 5000km intervals and a mix of street and track. Best to change at 5000km Max anyway on a sport bike. Changing motul 300V at 2000 or even 3000 is just a waste!
I used Both 7100 10W40 And 300V 10W40 in R15 V3(155cc) , 300V Works Better in Higher RPM More Smooth ,Acceleration Is better and And more Faster with 300V, with 7100 Acceleration is slower (comparing 300v)
Have been watching your older vids catching up. I made the decision to go with this oil after a previous view. First brand new bike ktm duke single cylinder thumper, gone through break in mileage and wanted to protect my investment. I immediately noticed a smoother running engine and better shifts. Analysis says everything, whenever my friends would balk at my 20k change intervals with using Amsoil, I'd break out the data! As if 340k on two trucks isn't good enough! Good job on the description. Thanks
Hi. Now i will test my oil from.my Honda cbr1000f. The bike is now gone 208000km. The most of this km with Motul 300V. I change oil every 6000km on it. And remember the 300V is not a long life oil and should be change every 6000km and not the service intervals on the bike with normal oil. 3000V is a racing oil. But now i will check my oil from a bike run that many km. I never burn any oil,and its clean like new after 6000km. So i think there is a reason thebikeis run that many km without any engine work. I think its the best quality oil.
@@nknitinkashyap0 hey thanks for your comments. You are right 150cc engine is bit small but to be honest never got a chance to test because I already sold it. Hope to get a new bike soon after this pandemic lockdown. I think for r15 motul 7100 will be better suited as it won't be able to fully utilise the potential of 300v
Great video, ive been using this on my bike as well and after 3k it comes out green almost like new, i dont like to wait too long on oil changes because of clutch and trans wear materials but im sure itll maintain
Hi guys. Thanks for a good video Both Motul 300v & 7100 are capable of Jaso MA2 which is the highest and latest for Wet clutch Then I wonder what you get Double Estern core from when it comes to 300v? Both oils have exactly the same Estern base oil and standard API SN. It is only addictive that separates them. Motul 7100 is a Performance oil for street bikes and has better wear protection but good avg performance in Bhp. Motul v300 is a pure racing oil that focuses on Bhp and not on wear protection, but you get between 3 -10 Bhp more in Dynamo tests. It's all about how much of the different addictives they mix in and the basic quality of the base oil. There are oils today that are better in tests like Amsoil with better quality API SN Plus on the base oil which beats both Motu 300v and many other old racing oils in tests
Yes I ride on Motul 710015w-50 in my BMW R1200RT now Why, because it is a class better in base oil "API SN" than BMW's own Motorrad Advantec Pro 15w-50 and Motul is cheaper and beats BMW's "new" original oil in all tests.
In my other bike Yamaha XT 600 I run on Castrol Power 1 ( Semi synth) Why because It has a better base oil Api SN than Motul´s 5100 Api SL both JASO MA 2 for the wet Clutch in that bike. Oilchange approx every 3 -4.000 miles
I drive Honda Hornet 900 (cb919) last five years...and i pass like 60K kilometers on 300v...changing oil between 6-8k kilometers... K&n oil filter... No single problem with anything...Anyway thanks for video. Cheers
Thank you for watching and commenting. Do a little research on that K&N though. It's the same as the Walmart house brand Supertech. Literally identical structurally just no nut on the end. Also, that nut has been the source of failures in the past because welding thin steel like on a filter compromises strength. Consider OEM, Wix or Mobile 1.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam i bealive in your words... It have logic... I just didnt know for kn failures... I use k&n last two years and realy did not have problems... Il take your suggest and go back on some filter with no nut
I wonder why people say they get clutch slipping with the molybdenum content , have you experienced that with a wet clutch and fully synthetic oil, I haven't and 300v has to be one of the best oils there is in my opinion too . They say not to use fully synthetic oil in the older bikes with a wet clutch as it will slip but it seems like a controversial subject but people really think it's a problem , maybe it's the amount in ppm I guess but I'll always go with fully synthetic
Usually I use 7100 motul I saw your video and I did change the oil to 300v the bike olmost brand new 2024 4300miles on it yesterday I got check engine light on I hope nothing serious
Hey, thanks for a wonderful informative video. Is it safe to say that this oil would also work fine on a CBR250R (single cyl bike) considering it revs way lower than the 1000rr ?
My 18 BMW r1200rt was serviced my the dealer @ 950 miles, then by me at 5800 miles . I went with the 300v, I now have 4000 miles. I did not know the manufacture service interval was 8500. BMW recommends 6000. I could not find any JASO MA2 or SL or SN ratings on the container ? And BMW does not recommend any Molybdenum in the oil ? Thanks, great video. very well done.
This oil is not certified for JASO, but is way superior... Motul just want sell 5100 and 7100 too, not only 300v. Out of guarantee you can use this oil safely.
sounds legit for 929rr 954rr 1000rr honda clutches wear good amount they are cable clutch big torque if it can hold up to street track duty in a honda or stunt machine I'm all for it over standard gn4 I get 700 miles only 02 954rr of course mine is a non-moly ceramic graphite engine they don't like moly but absolutely like av gas and Motul all the way tough ester oil cr250-2stroke I use 4stroke 300v whatever its great oil and you have big balls 8500 when like I said I never get a thousand out of my honda oil. I'm switching bro thanks
That's why I did the oil analysis. The 300v wear rate at 8500 miles in ppm of solids tested for was far lower than other oils I could find results for. There is no question that 300v is a better oil than the manufacturer branded semi synthetics. The manufacturers say that their semi synthetics can go 8000 miles between changes. The target market for 300v is the track day riders and racers. It is designed to give maximum protection with the second ester, hence the double ester designation, in that most extreme of environments. That is a whole different world where tire and brake wear is measured in minutes and I wouldn't go even 3000 miles between changes if that were my application.
The filter with a "nut" on them, the ones that are called "HiFlo" have real paper filter elements, and are just like the OEM filters, and when taken apart, they have really good build quality, on par with WIx and other high end filters. However, I would avoid all K&N products. Because K&N is a company that advertises more power, and not more quality. Their filters are not made out of paper, and paper is the best filter media on Earth for oil filters---K&N uses a weird synthetic media in most of their products, and their air filters aren't even safe for your engine, as you can visually see through the filter media!
I've been a big fan of Amzoil. I ride a 06 cbr fireblade. I'm starting to notice that after a few k miles my bike starts to shift a little ruff, during the down shifting only though. I just bought a 2021 ZX10-R and I'm at 550 miles so my break in period is up after the next time I ride. With my cbr shifting a little ruff I've been thinking about trying something different in my Ninja.
Just curious what you don't like about K&N oil filters. Yeah, you can refer to the nut ended filters, but we all know what we're talking about here. I'm not a fan boy, but I do use K&N for the reputation and convenience of the nut end. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Google K&N oil filter failure. They aren't allowed on track days. They aren't particularly good in independent testing and I don't need oil all over my rear tire at 150.
I like red line. I know you said it ran hot with you. My r6 at a track day never got over 180. And red line has WAY more zinc, phosphorus and molybdenum than most others for better protection.
Funny story about Red Line. When I raced cars professionally I was offered a Red Line sponsorship. Any sponsorship in racing is fairly hard to come by unless you run NASCAR. The German manufacturer who was my main sponsor said 'No, it runs too hot.' Red Line was and is a very popular oil especially in grass roots racing. If it's working for you then keep with it. I wish Red Line worked in my bike because it's available locally. Like I said it just ran too hot. Not an issue while moving but a big issue in traffic for me. Thank you for watching the video and commenting. Have fun at the track. that R6 is quite a weapon.
@@BW-kv9wj I mean exactly what I said. The engine ran measurably hotter. Several degrees. I cooked a stator because of it. Porsche engineers wouldn't let me take a Red Line sponsorship in my racing days because of it.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I was thinking about running the 300V 0W20 in my new Honda Civic. I was told that I shouldn’t use it for street applications and it’s only good for 3000 miles and must change it. But your analysis at 8500 miles proves that wrong. But do you think 300V will protect my engine better than Amsoil Signature Series? My goal is to take this Honda Civic to a million miles.
Variables to consider. 1.) What is the factory oil change interval? 2.) How dusty / dirty is the environment you ride in? 3.) Are you running an aftermarket air filter like a BMC or K&N? In my case the factory change interval is 8000 miles, I highway ride in low dust/dirt and run a factory Honda air filter. The oil can handle it but you have to be concerned with dirt. Also if you track the bike at Intermediate or higher level you'd want to change your oil much more frequently because track is way different than street when it comes to heat.
Hi lol, apart the shifting improvement, didn’t you think the Amsoil metric was holding your motor cleaner since it has more detergent, that’s why it seemed cooked? Have an BMW F800gs and have also hard shifting issues, but on the other hand want an oil that keeps my motor clean! Clean oil doesn’t mean you have an clean motor as well. So what’s your experience? Would appreciate your comment!
Amsoil, like every other oil I've ever used, changed color after the first handful of heat cycles and was definitely heat related. The only way to tell will be with a bore scope. Without a reference point though that will mean much less as all engines have carbon deposits. The lack of wear indicating suspended metals in the oil analysis indicate 300V is providing massively better wear protection in addition to the smoother shifting. I also don't get CCT chatter with the 300V.
Did you have any problem will motor running hot or warmer than with other oils and also if you have a wet clutch how did transmission shift? I apologise if I missed something, I been watching videos about this all night. Thanks.
I always run 7100 or 300 in my zx10r's never gone more than 5k miles on any of it but the 300 is better just not sure if it's worth the extra money. still hear is usually lower from what I have noticed and shifting smoother
The only way to find out for sure is to run oil analysis and see what comes up. If the 7100 is working for you then stick with it. As I said in this and my other video on the subject, all of the major oils will protect the engine. Some do a better job than others and some will have other beneficial properties for a particular platform. I have an old truck that likes a particular version of Valvoline. Every other oil I've tried causes lifter tick so for that platform Valvoline it is. Thank you for watching. Don't forget to like/subscribe.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I agree 100% and i usually run the 300v, if money is tight i skimp a lil and will run 7100 because it is still an esther and a motul product, but my bike seems to run smoother and shift better and temps are cooler with 300v. I had heard that 300 has no corrosion inhibitors in it though and that it is meant to be changed after every race which is why it is a race spec oil. any idea or knowledge about that?
7100 is hardly skimping but I also feel a difference with the 300v. I noticed your comment on the Angel GT and see you live in CA. Take into consideration that I live in the NE so it's a lot cooler here on average which leads to better tire life and better engine cooling.
Excellent review! 👌 i just put that oil into my kawa zx6r 636, there was some semi synthetic oil be4 in the engine and i decided to use 300v. I migh b doin 1,5 miles a year. Could i change an oil every 2 years then?
Hi there, the test on the rotella t6 document says 10w 40, I thought t6 was only 2 options; 5w or 15w 40 Thanks for the video, I think I'm going to switch to 300v
Hi! I am thinking of using this oil in an Aprilia Shiver 900 V2 where the manufacturer recommends intervals of 6.200/12.400milles (depending on use) or one year, but I have asked Motul and they have told me that with the 300V I should shorten the intervals to 3000milles or 6 months. According to your experience, can I use it for a year or 6.200milles in light road conditions? Thank you
Everyone has too make their own choice. This is a better lubricant than anything I've found and the metals content in the analysis done at 8500 miles proves that. Run a good filtering filter like OEM or WIX both for air and oil and you'll be good to go.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam thanks for answering. Now I use Ravenol Motor Racing 15w50 and I love it, but the price is high (€68 Ravenol, €49 300V, €59 300V2) and I am thinking of using 300V or 300V2 (there are only 10w50), or Amsoil Metric 10w50-15w50 ( 50-55€) because Amsoil 15w50 is very dense at the first start of the engine in the morning. Aprilia only recommends sae 15w50. I drive slowly, what will be your final choice? what can you say about waste in the 300v? thanks again
@@sp3associate What does your manufacturer say? For most bikes the manufacturer says 8000 miles for an oil change and that is with their semi-synthetic blend oil which is clearly not as good as 300v. So basically all oil is capable of going 8000 miles in street conditions. The difference would be air cooled vs liquid cooled engines and if you run one of the much less effective race type air filters or if there's a lot of dirt and dust on your roads you're going to get a lot more dirt in your oil and need to change it sooner.
I've been using Motul 700 10w40 engine oil on my 2016 Yamaha Yzf R15 all these years. I've heard from many that the Motul 300v is an extraordinary engine oil. I really wanna opt for it. Have been skeptical about it because it doesn't have that JASO MA2 Certification. Could you please advise me on this?
The JASO MA2 requires the addition of cleaning detergents. If you're operating in a dirty environment then stick with a JASO. Motul has decided to leave out the cleaning agents required to meet that designation and instead added another ester for better wear protection hence the "double ester" designation of this oil.
Change oil at intervals in accordance with what your manufacturer recommends. Honda says 8K miles for the 2014 CBR1000RR and that's with their synthetic blend. That's why I did this test. Previously I always did changes every 3K miles. I noticed this oil looked new at 3K so going by the manufacturer spec of 8K I ran this test and the oil analysis proved what I thought it would.
There are all kinds of variables. The 1K claims are for racing. They run high flow air filters that let dirt through and the torture of racing is WAY beyond anything you'll possibly be able to dish out on the street
Be advised the 300V doesn't have the same cleaning agents as the 7100. Not an issue for highway or track ridden bikes in, for instance, the USA. If there's a lot of dust where you ride I'd probably stick with the 7100.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam ohh i can give it a shot here its just no harm to engine i have heard 300v stays same performance aftwr clocking a lot of miles on day everyday my bike would feel the new then
Can I use this oil in a 2014 A6 3 liter TDI? My concern is that it is intended for both wet and dry clutch so may not have the friction modifiers of regular car oil. Also the additive package might harm the DPF. What do you think?
Hi lol, I don’t know if you already find out. But here is the link from Motuls recommendation for your car model. Motul 8100 x-clean 5w30. But if you insist there is Motul 300v Chrono in various viscosity grades you can use for car diesel motors! Enjoy your car!
I just got through running 300V for the past 1000 miles and I’m very impressed. The engine runs a lot smoother. The Z1000 has a very buzzy engine and it took a lot of that out, also the shift quality is better and what probably came as the biggest surprise, the engine runs much cooler. It also cools down quicker after building up heat at stop lights. The engine seems to rev freer as well. That’s a lot of positives just from an oil change. I wouldn’t have believed had I not experienced it myself
I live in Bangkok, Thailand and ride a 2014 Suzuki Vstrom DL1000. My previous ride was a 2007 DL1000. I use Amsoil 10w40 Metric oil and change the oil once a year which equals between 12,000 and 15,000 Kilometers a year. I get almost the same results you do except my copper content is about 50% lower than yours but I do touring not much around town riding. I believe the takeaway is if you use good quality motorcycle specific oil your ride will easily do more than 160,000 Kilometers or 100,000 miles easily.
Everything I've heard is good. It's composition would be more simular to Motul 7100 than 300v. Part of my decision process for choosing Motul is that in my research I found out Motul was the creator of the first multi-grade oil and has been in business for over 100 years.
Hey bro just a Question to ask... I'm Using this Motul 300V in my Yamaha MT 15 which is a 155cc bike... The bike became freaking smooth and i feel like the initial Torque is Increased so will this oil do any harm in my MT 15.... It is not an Air cooled engine... It is a Liquid Cooled engine...
It will not do any damage to your bike, presuming you picked the right viscosity. Motul 300V is the best motorcycle online you can buy. It is pricey, but as can also be seen in this test here, it supasses other most other oils in Performance and protection.
@@Allenamenwarenschonweg yes bro already Tried and its freaking smooth even after 4k kms... Now this will be my regular oil for my MT in the service...
Hi can i use 300v on my Honda RS125cc underbone? Im using motul H-tech fully synthetic now its good but i want to try the 300v....any suggestion? Is it good for 125cc bike?
That's a result of a partnership between shell and ducati. Yamaha makes oil and says to only use yamalube in the bikes. KTM has a partnership with Motorex that does the same thing. Oil is oil, this will work fine. I'm using this in my Yamaha and it works perfectly, and from what I'm reading, half the UK dealers for ducati use this from stock anyways. Cheers,
I'd be carefull if your bike is still under warranty. They might not honor the warranty if you use a different oil. But most wrnty are only 12months. I just got a bike and I'm looking at $2,000 dollars if I use the dealer at my 600mile brk in and my 7,500 mile service. I'm at 550 and the bike had zero issues. Now do I think I'm gonna have problems in the next 11 months. Probably not. So I'm gonna do my own service and at 8,000 mile I'll have a guy that has a shop in my small town that knows his stuff and will check and adjust ( if it even needs it ) my valve clearence. For about $400 Do I spend $2,000 in the next 10 months just in case I need warranty? I doubt I'll have any problems b4 the wrnty runs out so I'm saving my $$$ and doing my own oil changes. Anyway something to think about b4 going against manufacturers recommendations.
I wouldn't see why not but because the pressures on a 150 aren't as high it's probably a more expensive oil than you need. Check out the Motul 7100. Thank you for watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
OEM. As I state in the video the manufacturer service requirement using their hybrid oil is 8K so. We all change our oil at 3K. I did this to prove that for anything short of track use that's not necessary. I also use an OEM air filter. If you use one of the "race" air filters that let dirt through this wouldn't apply.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam Thanks for that extra bit of info. I ordered the 300V and I appreciate the time and effort in studying it's tolerances. Most of us only have opinions about oils we have zero evidence of. But we speak of them as fact 🤣😂🤣
In india we have this pil and it only last 4000km. People say that it last less because its a racing engine oil. Afyer watching your vedio I actually think that motul is selling less quality engine oil in India and the pack is only available in 1ltr.
I doubt you're getting a different oil. A lot of people are misinformed about the durability and duty cycles of all oils not just 300v. That's why I did this video. India is a dusty environment compared to Europe or the US. Depending on the air filter you use the longevity of any oil will be impacted greatly.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam oddly enough i was watching some other videos on this oil and a fella from india was filling his engine with 300v that was amber/brown in color. So it seems they do have a different variety or blend over in india for some particular and or peculiar reason. Havent really done a deep dive into it, since im not in india and its somewhat irrelevant to me but its just an observation. His comment kinda made me go "hmmmm?"
@100GTAGUY I'd imagine it wasn't 300v but rather one of tge other Motul oils which frankly would be better and less expensive in dusty, lower reving applications
@@100GTAGUYim from india and i have used 300v twice and no its not amber in colour. Its green and gives a nice smell as well. Im sure it was some other scam oil being sold as motul. Happens a lot in india. There are also vids by many indian youtubers how to spot the original motul product
I bought it at either an auto parts store or Walmart but this is the same one on Amazon www.amazon.com/Dorman-95-1371-Drain-Pan-15/dp/B0024G1T9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?crid=2U1KC8DIO90XN&keywords=oil+pans+for+changing+oil&qid=1638421489&sprefix=oil+pan%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-30
My riding is a mixture. I don't wring it out to red line all the time and I do a fair amount of highway cruising but I also do quite a few drag strip test and tune nights. Also, the main reason I have the bike is I've always owned something capable of extreme speeds and take 165mph plus runs on a regular basis to get my fix.
I've been doing research into motul oil with the Ester additive. I wasn't sure what oil to get because they also have the 7100 1040 oil. I thought that the 300v was just for race tracks only. I'm an avid Rider and I read everyday. It would save me a great deal of money for oil that protects very well and also the longevity of the oil is up to par. I definitely want to use motul 300v oil for my next Oil Change. Quick question, I know you said that the factory oil filters would be the best but by any chance have you tried the hiflofiltro oil filter and how does it work...?
The target market for 300v is the track rider or racer. If it can survive that environment where longevity of tires and brakes are measured in minutes it will protect you on the street.
If you ride these liter bikes like they’re supposed to be ridden you should be changing the oil every 2000 miles max and oil filter every 4000 miles max. Every single person I know that follows the manufacturer recommendations need valves adjusted at the first interval. People that change it more frequently go 3 or 4 valve inspections before anything is out of spec.
28000 miles and my valves needed no adjustment at last check. Of course you're clearly a street Rossi so certainly my lifetime of pro racing experience, instructing, lab analysis results and Honda's specified 8K interval means nothing. My bet is you ride like an ass rev bombing and use a worthless piece of shit racing filter on the street because of course you're a Rossi. Go away.
First time to use this oil in my 150 cc bore up mio old bike 2007 drive it around 600km + in a day in indonesia, only have good things to say about the motul 300v oil , was gonna change it after 1500km but have a feeling i can change it after 3000 or 5000km Will keep you posted how it when
Update : was going around my are with the tune up yamaha mio , got a blow out of the engine , will update what happen and how the oil holding up 12xx kilometers since the oil change
@@radekt51 I haven't used the 7100. The 300V is amazing. If the engine is smaller than the 1000cc I have or if you're in a dusty environment then the 7100 is probably a better choice.
Well that's up to you. The point here is two fold. 1.) There's no need to be doing changes every 3K for normal riding even w/ drag strip use. Track would be a different matter and I can't contribute info to that specific set of circumstances. 2.) The tested indicators of engine wear are the same in parts per million for 300V 4T at 8500 miles as it is for Rotella and other results I found at just 5000 miles. That means there is significant less engine wear with the Motul. Thank you for watching and commenting!
Appreciate the video. Some really good information. It's funny how people pick and choose what they believe when it comes to manufactures specifications. They trust rear axle torque spec ect but not oil change interval recommendation. Guys changing oil every 1000-3000 on street bikes has always seemed totally overboard to me and I'm sure all the oil companies love that people still have this misconception floating about. I personally use 7100 as it has more things inside it that's more beneficial to a street bike than absolute sheer strength like a track bike would prefer. Really is best of both worlds compared to a semi-synthetic. As you said 7100 might actually be the better choice for your bike but I'm glad you done this wee experiment. I also share the same opinion about oil and air filters as you.
Most of the guys that are changing their oil under 3000 miles are probably doing it annually. Most engine manufacturers recommend changing your oil annually or at XXXX miles. All my motorcycles, trucks, and Jeep list it that way.
Good review. I've used all kinds of motorcycle oils in the years I've ridden and since a couple months ago, I've decided to only stick with Motul 300V 10W40 for all three of my sportbikes. Your video confirms I'm in the right direction. Thanks.
Ive beem a yamaha tech , i filled up an gsxr with 300v , after that it was all yamahas so only yamalube , more than 8l of yamalube later and the funnel was still coated in green oil, aka 300v... the thing sticks to everything, damn awesome oil
Even for casual road use?
@@arthurbttf absolutely
@@SportbikeUnitedRiderz I was thinking in getting a good oil, since my commutes are on highways at 7000+rpm, in your opinion, would you recommend I go for the 300v or 7100?
@@arthurbttf I 100% recommend 300v.
I race bikes for 24 year's and motul 300v was the best of them all. Never had one gearbox problem in all the bike's I've owned.
Cool music. I just changed my oil on my Duc with Motul 300v. This 300v is made by the Spartan Gods.
Brilliant video well done, have recently started using this for my CRF450r supermoto and thought I’d never really know how good it actually is but now I do Thanks dude 👌🏻
It really is that good and you don't understand it until you try it. Thank you for watching and commenting your experience.
I just got 2020 crf 450r and will be using this oil
MonacoGP hi pal back here again showing friends 😂 also what’s the songs name ? Please and thanks 🙏🏻
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam - And 4 years later!?
You know or knew it has less cleaning detergents?
As an alternative there's the 7100 series.
Thanks.
Very informative I usually run amsoil On my S 1000 RR but decided to try the 300 V Just because that was in stock at the time . I think you just put my mind at ease just a bit thank you
Be sure to come back and relay your experience.
I just started running motul 300v and will for the life of the bike good info all these guys on forums keep saying change 300v after a race weekend lol knowledge is power
Great video, very well done, very professional! The 8500 mile Oil analysis is proof in fact that Motul 300v is an outstanding oil for Motorcycles. It's not just somebody on UA-cam's opinion. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I have a 2014 CBR1000RR SP...wanted to go with the 300v, went as far as purchasing 4 liters, then backed out and went with the Motul 7100.
Reason being...300v is NOT JASO MA2 certified as required by Honda.
What are your thoughts on this? I would value your professional opinion.
Thanks again for a great video!
By the way, the 7100 is Red in color!
Thank you for the kind words and for watching.The 7100 is also a great oil. It is also ester based which means it will have greater film strength than other oils. This is why the ester based oils are better. The CBR1000RR, a 14 like yours but not the SP, I use this oil in is prone to CCT noise. The reason for this is Honda doesn't supply a lot of oil to that area. Having an oil that clings better to the timing chain transports more lubricity to that hard to reach area. I don't have the clack I had with other oils by using the Motul. Proof of the film strength of the 300V is the lack of oil lash in the clutch as demonstrated in the middle of the video. Another oil 'starved' area of the CBR1000RR is the stator housing. There's barely any oil in there compared to other manufacturers. I feel better having an oil with premium lubricity in that area as well. The main difference between the two versions of Motul is the 7100 is a single ester and the 300v is a double ester. The double ester will have more film strength. This is achieved by having lower levels of detergent which, I believe but don't know this for certain, is the reason the 300v is not JASO certified. This is not a concern for me. I don't run the "race" style air filters which are little more than bug screens and do poorly, in my experience, with actual dirt. I'd rather have the better lubricity. As far as Honda corporate is concerned I could care less. I'm well out of warranty and they also certify their clearly inferior synthetic blend house offering for 8000 miles. That said; You wouldn't go wrong with the 7100 and frankly for most may be the better choice. I made my choice for the specific concerns stated above. One last note. I'd be interested in the formulation similarities of the 7100 vs Red Line which is also a single ester and ends up being red in color. The Red Line made my bike run hot by several degrees so if you decide to run the 7100 keep an eye on that.
go to motul.com and read the technical info of motul 300v the manufacturer tells us that 300v is beyond standard MA and MA2 (ma2 is for heavy duty ) thats why its beater and stays fresh !!!!
Which one do you prefer 300v or 7100 for motor bike? I used 7100 in my ninja and its great for shifting. In indonesia quite hot and ever 2000-2500km i change my engine oil
@@leidenoeerstyano9632 2.000km intervals? 😂😂
@@andreqwerty123 yeah approx 2000++ much better than KGO ultimate
Great video! Im glad to see someone doing some actual scientific analysis and research rather than just opinion. Much appreciated! I use this oil in my 2014 KTM 500 XC-W and it works great. I was thinking about trying to extend the interval to get the most for the money as this stuff isn't cheap. I may do a "long" run and have it tested just for fun/verification.
Id say its not much use to compare someone else's oil sample with yours, or at least take it with a grain of salt. Thanks again for the video!
I completely understand your point about comparing samples from other engines even when they are from the same model and gen as I did. I was surprised though by how linear all of the other results that I could find from others were. They were remarkably similar in ppm. Yes, I'm very happy to have the confidence to extend the interval knowing there is no damage occurring. Than you for your input, comment and for watching the video!
Man, I use Mobile 1 for cars for 22 years now. Never had a slip clutch problem. Still have my Kawasaki Ninja ZX9R B4, with 64k miles. My XLX350R run Mobil1 15w50 for 17k and other time at 18K miles on the same charge of oil, with tons of off roading. Sold the bike and it still running fine. The bikes are good. Same on the oil.
Good for you. I, and nearly everyone else that use this oil, notice a significant difference in the smoothness of shifting. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-camyep I got a street triple 2018 and did a oil swap from Mobil 1 as I’ve always used that for everything of mine and first thing I noticed was quick shifting and just shifting was like butter I literally felt my gear box have no slip or slop in it
I'm not surprised by these findings. I use their 800 two stroke oil and I'm on the original cylinder, ktm 300, at 715 hours. That's unheard off in a race two stroke bike. Great analysis BTW.
Are you mixing the gas yourself?
What ratio?
If it's the auto feed on the new 300s they don't really like the motul 800 as it's to thick
I’m mixing 50:1, regular premium pump gas. I’m at 830 hours now. I’m also using the 300v in KTM 450exc that I use for dual sporting. I go over the interval a little bit to 25 hours. I use their air filter oil as well, very sticky. Good stuff
@@bmwlane8834 yes 50:1 works well with the motul 800 and the motorex 2t oils.
great review my friend, keep the good job. appreciate your effort.
Motul released a 300v2 variant and promoting it to be better than 300v. Check that out if u can😊
Hi, I use zx10r gen 5 2016 bike. I do use this oil at first 3k km then change oil. Mix use track and regular driven. I noticed same thing that oil was still really green and by just looking at it, it can still be use. Now I change oil every 5k to 6k km. You can feel your own bike if it needs to change its oil, if needed dont finish 5k km.
Video starts at 9:35
All welcome
Lmao it looks dark n gross, should be vibrant green haha, i spoke to motul ( i do 3-4 track days a year n only ride twisties on road) they said DO NOT let the oil go past 3500-4000km (2200 2500miles). They said not over 4000km because it wasnt designed for longevity.. It was for super immediate performance.. Motul 7100 is a street going hi perf full syn n can do 8000miles... 300v is a race oil ment to free up friction of parts, thus freeing horsepower, and be changed very soon.. If it was a track bike, depending you may change it after 5 track days or even after 1 track day.., 7100 shifts jus as well as 300v.. I do 4000km max incl track days)a season., so 1 $110 oil change is justfied... Its not JASO certified because its race oil.. Not meant to last very long , oddly enough it says 300v exceeds jaso standards.. Change it sooner n its godly
@@heff520motul will say this only with the 300v.. It frees friction giving .5hp or so increase lol, but doesnt have long distance additive package..
The very old 300v was very short life, that old formula have a lot of esters and additives, but at the same time not a big TBN reserve for longer intervals, the newer formula is NOT a fully racing oil like a Redline 30WT, they have a similar additive package and the TBN is high If you compare with the Rotella... the ester is present but not enough for became acidify prematurely. You can use this oil for 5k very good and 3k EASILY. Even the car version 300v is enough for 7000 miles.
@@FEGTTTSDH spot in 300V is great for 5000km intervals and a mix of street and track.
Best to change at 5000km Max anyway on a sport bike.
Changing motul 300V at 2000 or even 3000 is just a waste!
I used Both 7100 10W40 And 300V 10W40 in R15 V3(155cc) , 300V Works Better in Higher RPM More Smooth ,Acceleration Is better and And more Faster with 300V, with 7100 Acceleration is slower (comparing 300v)
that's placebo... Oils have like less than 1% difference in hp of the engine.
What about the shifting? Does the 300v feels smoother or vice versa?
@@VOX-TROi have an r15 as well and 300v is the best engine oil for it. Go for it eyes closed your bike will love it and so will you
If you are in Ireland. Motul is available at The Oil Store 😀
In the US none of the normal places carry it. There is one performance shop that carries Motul but not for motorcycles
Motul for the win 👌
There are other great oil choices out there but for me this one has been better and now I have proof.
Have been watching your older vids catching up. I made the decision to go with this oil after a previous view. First brand new bike ktm duke single cylinder thumper, gone through break in mileage and wanted to protect my investment. I immediately noticed a smoother running engine and better shifts. Analysis says everything, whenever my friends would balk at my 20k change intervals with using Amsoil, I'd break out the data! As if 340k on two trucks isn't good enough! Good job on the description. Thanks
Thank you for watching and commenting. Glad to hear the oil is working well in your KTM.
Hi. Now i will test my oil from.my Honda cbr1000f. The bike is now gone 208000km. The most of this km with Motul 300V. I change oil every 6000km on it. And remember the 300V is not a long life oil and should be change every 6000km and not the service intervals on the bike with normal oil. 3000V is a racing oil. But now i will check my oil from a bike run that many km. I never burn any oil,and its clean like new after 6000km. So i think there is a reason thebikeis run that many km without any engine work. I think its the best quality oil.
i been using this to my 2017 gsxr 600 it has 65 miles and still run like new never had problem but i sold them and got 1000r
Nice video very clear and very informative I own a bigger bike R15 n will use 300v for around 6000-7000 km run let's hope I get good results
Keep us posted. Get an analysis run when you're done. Thank you for watching and commenting!
I would use it for 4k-5k km.
R15 is a smaller bike idiot🤣
@@nknitinkashyap0 hey thanks for your comments. You are right 150cc engine is bit small but to be honest never got a chance to test because I already sold it. Hope to get a new bike soon after this pandemic lockdown. I think for r15 motul 7100 will be better suited as it won't be able to fully utilise the potential of 300v
Great video, ive been using this on my bike as well and after 3k it comes out green almost like new, i dont like to wait too long on oil changes because of clutch and trans wear materials but im sure itll maintain
Thank you and thanks for watching and commenting!
Because it is not cleaning the engine.
Hi guys. Thanks for a good video Both Motul 300v & 7100 are capable of Jaso MA2 which is the highest and latest for Wet clutch Then I wonder what you get Double Estern core from when it comes to 300v? Both oils have exactly the same Estern base oil and standard API SN. It is only addictive that separates them. Motul 7100 is a Performance oil for street bikes and has better wear protection but good avg performance in Bhp. Motul v300 is a pure racing oil that focuses on Bhp and not on wear protection, but you get between 3 -10 Bhp more in Dynamo tests. It's all about how much of the different addictives they mix in and the basic quality of the base oil. There are oils today that are better in tests like Amsoil with better quality API SN Plus on the base oil which beats both Motu 300v and many other old racing oils in tests
Yes I ride on Motul 710015w-50 in my BMW R1200RT now Why, because it is a class better in base oil "API SN" than BMW's own Motorrad Advantec Pro 15w-50 and Motul is cheaper and beats BMW's "new" original oil in all tests.
In my other bike Yamaha XT 600 I run on Castrol Power 1 ( Semi synth) Why because It has a better base oil Api SN than Motul´s 5100 Api SL both JASO MA 2 for the wet Clutch in that bike. Oilchange approx every 3 -4.000 miles
Well done.
Thank you and thank you for watching and commenting!
Thank you
I drive Honda Hornet 900 (cb919) last five years...and i pass like 60K kilometers on 300v...changing oil between 6-8k kilometers... K&n oil filter... No single problem with anything...Anyway thanks for video. Cheers
Thank you for watching and commenting. Do a little research on that K&N though. It's the same as the Walmart house brand Supertech. Literally identical structurally just no nut on the end. Also, that nut has been the source of failures in the past because welding thin steel like on a filter compromises strength. Consider OEM, Wix or Mobile 1.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam i bealive in your words... It have logic... I just didnt know for kn failures... I use k&n last two years and realy did not have problems... Il take your suggest and go back on some filter with no nut
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam i have been use Hi-flo filtro.... Like on all ex motorcycles
I wonder why people say they get clutch slipping with the molybdenum content , have you experienced that with a wet clutch and fully synthetic oil, I haven't and 300v has to be one of the best oils there is in my opinion too . They say not to use fully synthetic oil in the older bikes with a wet clutch as it will slip but it seems like a controversial subject but people really think it's a problem , maybe it's the amount in ppm I guess but I'll always go with fully synthetic
Couldn't tell you. I've never experienced it.
Usually I use 7100 motul I saw your video and I did change the oil to 300v the bike olmost brand new 2024 4300miles on it yesterday I got check engine light on I hope nothing serious
I get 2500 miles with 300v before I start noticing the gear box shifting hard-
Hey, thanks for a wonderful informative video. Is it safe to say that this oil would also work fine on a CBR250R (single cyl bike) considering it revs way lower than the 1000rr ?
Yes and thank you for the kind words!
My 18 BMW r1200rt was serviced my the dealer @ 950 miles, then by me at 5800 miles . I went with the 300v, I now have 4000 miles. I did not know the manufacture service interval was 8500. BMW recommends 6000. I could not find any JASO MA2 or SL or SN ratings on the container ? And BMW does not recommend any Molybdenum in the oil ? Thanks, great video. very well done.
This oil is not certified for JASO, but is way superior... Motul just want sell 5100 and 7100 too, not only 300v. Out of guarantee you can use this oil safely.
sounds legit for 929rr 954rr 1000rr honda clutches wear good amount they are cable clutch big torque if it can hold up to street track duty in a honda or stunt machine I'm all for it over standard gn4 I get 700 miles only 02 954rr of course mine is a non-moly ceramic graphite engine they don't like moly but absolutely like av gas and Motul all the way tough ester oil cr250-2stroke I use 4stroke 300v whatever its great oil and you have big balls 8500 when like I said I never get a thousand out of my honda oil. I'm switching bro thanks
Pretty sure that the recommended oil change interval for the 300V is 3000-5000 miles MAX
That's why I did the oil analysis. The 300v wear rate at 8500 miles in ppm of solids tested for was far lower than other oils I could find results for. There is no question that 300v is a better oil than the manufacturer branded semi synthetics. The manufacturers say that their semi synthetics can go 8000 miles between changes. The target market for 300v is the track day riders and racers. It is designed to give maximum protection with the second ester, hence the double ester designation, in that most extreme of environments. That is a whole different world where tire and brake wear is measured in minutes and I wouldn't go even 3000 miles between changes if that were my application.
@Zombie Head 5000-8000 kms, In my bike this oil lasts at most 6000 kms
@Zombie Head The oil analysis proves my oil was good to go after 8500 miles in my CBR100RR.
The filter with a "nut" on them, the ones that are called "HiFlo" have real paper filter elements, and are just like the OEM filters, and when taken apart, they have really good build quality, on par with WIx and other high end filters. However, I would avoid all K&N products. Because K&N is a company that advertises more power, and not more quality. Their filters are not made out of paper, and paper is the best filter media on Earth for oil filters---K&N uses a weird synthetic media in most of their products, and their air filters aren't even safe for your engine, as you can visually see through the filter media!
I didn't want to name the brand for liability reasons but the internals on that one are crap as you've stated.
Nice
I've been a big fan of Amzoil. I ride a 06 cbr fireblade. I'm starting to notice that after a few k miles my bike starts to shift a little ruff, during the down shifting only though. I just bought a 2021 ZX10-R and I'm at 550 miles so my break in period is up after the next time I ride. With my cbr shifting a little ruff I've been thinking about trying something different in my Ninja.
Good info.
Bro plz do test addinol lubricants. And we need a lab test and comparison. For respective oil grades. Would love to see❤️
Just curious what you don't like about K&N oil filters. Yeah, you can refer to the nut ended filters, but we all know what we're talking about here. I'm not a fan boy, but I do use K&N for the reputation and convenience of the nut end. I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Google K&N oil filter failure. They aren't allowed on track days. They aren't particularly good in independent testing and I don't need oil all over my rear tire at 150.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam okay I will investigate further. I admire your fast response. Thank you!
The nut is for removal not to install
Oils with an ester base stock are the best.
I like red line. I know you said it ran hot with you. My r6 at a track day never got over 180. And red line has WAY more zinc, phosphorus and molybdenum than most others for better protection.
Funny story about Red Line. When I raced cars professionally I was offered a Red Line sponsorship. Any sponsorship in racing is fairly hard to come by unless you run NASCAR. The German manufacturer who was my main sponsor said 'No, it runs too hot.' Red Line was and is a very popular oil especially in grass roots racing. If it's working for you then keep with it. I wish Red Line worked in my bike because it's available locally. Like I said it just ran too hot. Not an issue while moving but a big issue in traffic for me. Thank you for watching the video and commenting. Have fun at the track. that R6 is quite a weapon.
never seen redline made for anything but v twin motors bike wise
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam What do you mean Redline ran too hot? How did you measure its heats?
@@BW-kv9wj I mean exactly what I said. The engine ran measurably hotter. Several degrees. I cooked a stator because of it. Porsche engineers wouldn't let me take a Red Line sponsorship in my racing days because of it.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I was thinking about running the 300V 0W20 in my new Honda Civic. I was told that I shouldn’t use it for street applications and it’s only good for 3000 miles and must change it. But your analysis at 8500 miles proves that wrong. But do you think 300V will protect my engine better than Amsoil Signature Series? My goal is to take this Honda Civic to a million miles.
Wow. Thank you for the information
I'm using motul 300V². Will that have the same life?
Variables to consider.
1.) What is the factory oil change interval?
2.) How dusty / dirty is the environment you ride in?
3.) Are you running an aftermarket air filter like a BMC or K&N?
In my case the factory change interval is 8000 miles, I highway ride in low dust/dirt and run a factory Honda air filter. The oil can handle it but you have to be concerned with dirt.
Also if you track the bike at Intermediate or higher level you'd want to change your oil much more frequently because track is way different than street when it comes to heat.
As a motorcycle mechanic, i can tell u doing the earlier change on full synthetic oil on regular use just wasting money and resource
Hi lol, apart the shifting improvement, didn’t you think the Amsoil metric was holding your motor cleaner since it has more detergent, that’s why it seemed cooked? Have an BMW F800gs and have also hard shifting issues, but on the other hand want an oil that keeps my motor clean! Clean oil doesn’t mean you have an clean motor as well. So what’s your experience? Would appreciate your comment!
Amsoil, like every other oil I've ever used, changed color after the first handful of heat cycles and was definitely heat related. The only way to tell will be with a bore scope. Without a reference point though that will mean much less as all engines have carbon deposits. The lack of wear indicating suspended metals in the oil analysis indicate 300V is providing massively better wear protection in addition to the smoother shifting. I also don't get CCT chatter with the 300V.
Thanks for the information. Helped me a lot! Enjoy your bike!
Did you have any problem will motor running hot or warmer than with other oils and also if you have a wet clutch how did transmission shift? I apologise if I missed something, I been watching videos about this all night. Thanks.
ua-cam.com/video/PYwgYx5Qo3o/v-deo.html
In that video I discuss shifting and heat. Thank you for watching!!!
I always run 7100 or 300 in my zx10r's never gone more than 5k miles on any of it but the 300 is better just not sure if it's worth the extra money. still hear is usually lower from what I have noticed and shifting smoother
The only way to find out for sure is to run oil analysis and see what comes up. If the 7100 is working for you then stick with it. As I said in this and my other video on the subject, all of the major oils will protect the engine. Some do a better job than others and some will have other beneficial properties for a particular platform. I have an old truck that likes a particular version of Valvoline. Every other oil I've tried causes lifter tick so for that platform Valvoline it is. Thank you for watching. Don't forget to like/subscribe.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I agree 100% and i usually run the 300v, if money is tight i skimp a lil and will run 7100 because it is still an esther and a motul product, but my bike seems to run smoother and shift better and temps are cooler with 300v. I had heard that 300 has no corrosion inhibitors in it though and that it is meant to be changed after every race which is why it is a race spec oil. any idea or knowledge about that?
7100 is hardly skimping but I also feel a difference with the 300v. I noticed your comment on the Angel GT and see you live in CA. Take into consideration that I live in the NE so it's a lot cooler here on average which leads to better tire life and better engine cooling.
Insane to run 300V for 8,000 plus miles in a street bike. Great oil though.
Excellent review! 👌 i just put that oil into my kawa zx6r 636, there was some semi synthetic oil be4 in the engine and i decided to use 300v. I migh b doin 1,5 miles a year. Could i change an oil every 2 years then?
Not sure I'd leave any oil in a high performance engine for 2 years.
No man, 1 year in every case.
Hi there, the test on the rotella t6 document says 10w 40, I thought t6 was only 2 options; 5w or 15w 40
Thanks for the video, I think I'm going to switch to 300v
does your CBR has stock airfilters on when you completed the 8500 mileage?
Yes. You couldn't do it with one of those fabric "race" filters because they let all manner of dirt through.
REALLY WONDERING HOW THE 5W40 300V CAR TYPE WOULD LOOK LIKE.......................(I MEAN CARS)
I guess there's one way to find out. Let us know.
Hi! I am thinking of using this oil in an Aprilia Shiver 900 V2 where the manufacturer recommends intervals of 6.200/12.400milles (depending on use) or one year, but I have asked Motul and they have told me that with the 300V I should shorten the intervals to 3000milles or 6 months. According to your experience, can I use it for a year or 6.200milles in light road conditions? Thank you
Everyone has too make their own choice. This is a better lubricant than anything I've found and the metals content in the analysis done at 8500 miles proves that. Run a good filtering filter like OEM or WIX both for air and oil and you'll be good to go.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam thanks for answering. Now I use Ravenol Motor Racing 15w50 and I love it, but the price is high (€68 Ravenol, €49 300V, €59 300V2) and I am thinking of using 300V or 300V2 (there are only 10w50), or Amsoil Metric 10w50-15w50 ( 50-55€) because Amsoil 15w50 is very dense at the first start of the engine in the morning. Aprilia only recommends sae 15w50. I drive slowly, what will be your final choice? what can you say about waste in the 300v? thanks again
which is better: motul 7100 or motul 300v?
From a lubrication standpoint, 300v.
The oil retain its property after 8500 miles ?
Yes. Verified by analysis.
Can it give same result with another engine , I mean 250 cc engine ?
@@sp3associate What does your manufacturer say? For most bikes the manufacturer says 8000 miles for an oil change and that is with their semi-synthetic blend oil which is clearly not as good as 300v. So basically all oil is capable of going 8000 miles in street conditions. The difference would be air cooled vs liquid cooled engines and if you run one of the much less effective race type air filters or if there's a lot of dirt and dust on your roads you're going to get a lot more dirt in your oil and need to change it sooner.
My bike manufacturer is Suzuki but they are saying that u must use their proprietary synthetic ECSTAR and change interval is just 3000 km
@@sp3associateWhat Suzuki model is it? 3000km seems very low even for an air cooled.
I've been using Motul 700 10w40 engine oil on my 2016 Yamaha Yzf R15 all these years. I've heard from many that the Motul 300v is an extraordinary engine oil. I really wanna opt for it. Have been skeptical about it because it doesn't have that JASO MA2 Certification. Could you please advise me on this?
The JASO MA2 requires the addition of cleaning detergents. If you're operating in a dirty environment then stick with a JASO. Motul has decided to leave out the cleaning agents required to meet that designation and instead added another ester for better wear protection hence the "double ester" designation of this oil.
Comes from factory in APRILLIA, goes in green, comes out green. BMW dealer told me there was no better oil.. period.
Sir I have Honda unicorn bs6 its 162cc bike please suggest the best oil for my bike
The Motul 7100 would be a better choice than this. It's specifically formulated for air cooled engines.
How much km can i run gixxer 155 using 300v?
Please reply.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Thank you!
Can you research abour Fuchs Silkolene Pro 4T 10w40 ?
can I mix this with say mobile 1 for commercial mower engines what's your thoughts?
Hello Friend,
I can use this oil for 5000km on MT-09?
Thanks good curves
Change oil at intervals in accordance with what your manufacturer recommends. Honda says 8K miles for the 2014 CBR1000RR and that's with their synthetic blend. That's why I did this test. Previously I always did changes every 3K miles. I noticed this oil looked new at 3K so going by the manufacturer spec of 8K I ran this test and the oil analysis proved what I thought it would.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I've been told that this oil only makes 1000km!? This is normal?
I will change at 5000km!
Watch the video.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam I've seen the video!
It was in your video that I learned that it makes 8000miles 😉
Thanks good curves 💪
There are all kinds of variables. The 1K claims are for racing. They run high flow air filters that let dirt through and the torture of racing is WAY beyond anything you'll possibly be able to dish out on the street
Gonna switch 300v from 7100 in my duke 390 india
Be advised the 300V doesn't have the same cleaning agents as the 7100. Not an issue for highway or track ridden bikes in, for instance, the USA. If there's a lot of dust where you ride I'd probably stick with the 7100.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam ohh i can give it a shot here its just no harm to engine i have heard 300v stays same performance aftwr clocking a lot of miles on day everyday my bike would feel the new then
Can I use this oil in a 2014 A6 3 liter TDI? My concern is that it is intended for both wet and dry clutch so may not have the friction modifiers of regular car oil. Also the additive package might harm the DPF. What do you think?
I don't have any background in diesel applications. Sorry.
Hi lol, I don’t know if you already find out. But here is the link from Motuls recommendation for your car model. Motul 8100 x-clean 5w30. But if you insist there is Motul 300v Chrono in various viscosity grades you can use for car diesel motors! Enjoy your car!
I’m currently using Amsoil 10w40 in my Z1000 but will give the 300V a shot
Amsoil is a great oil and my second choice. Be sure to come back and let us know what you think.
I just got through running 300V for the past 1000 miles and I’m very impressed. The engine runs a lot smoother. The Z1000 has a very buzzy engine and it took a lot of that out, also the shift quality is better and what probably came as the biggest surprise, the engine runs much cooler. It also cools down quicker after building up heat at stop lights. The engine seems to rev freer as well. That’s a lot of positives just from an oil change. I wouldn’t have believed had I not experienced it myself
Thank you for your sharing your experience.
I live in Bangkok, Thailand and ride a 2014 Suzuki Vstrom DL1000. My previous ride was a 2007 DL1000. I use Amsoil 10w40 Metric oil and change the oil once a year which equals between 12,000 and 15,000 Kilometers a year. I get almost the same results you do except my copper content is about 50% lower than yours but I do touring not much around town riding. I believe the takeaway is if you use good quality motorcycle specific oil your ride will easily do more than 160,000 Kilometers or 100,000 miles easily.
Stay with amsoil
Can anyone comment on liquimoly street race oil
Everything I've heard is good. It's composition would be more simular to Motul 7100 than 300v. Part of my decision process for choosing Motul is that in my research I found out Motul was the creator of the first multi-grade oil and has been in business for over 100 years.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam thanks, appreciate the reply. 👍
Where do you buy the oil at.
Best price is on Amazon. Very few brick and mortar stores will carry it.
Hey bro just a Question to ask... I'm Using this Motul 300V in my Yamaha MT 15 which is a 155cc bike... The bike became freaking smooth and i feel like the initial Torque is Increased so will this oil do any harm in my MT 15.... It is not an Air cooled engine... It is a Liquid Cooled engine...
It will not do any damage to your bike, presuming you picked the right viscosity.
Motul 300V is the best motorcycle online you can buy. It is pricey, but as can also be seen in this test here, it supasses other most other oils in Performance and protection.
@@Allenamenwarenschonweg yes bro already Tried and its freaking smooth even after 4k kms... Now this will be my regular oil for my MT in the service...
Can i use this oil for my motorcycle that onlydriven for cruising
It certainly won't hurt but it may be overkill if it's not a high revving sport bike.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam yes it's a low rpm motorcycle... So you mean to say, is it unsafe to use?
@@miguelpaneda1607 Not unsafe just a waste of money and the 7100 is better formulated for air cooled motors and bike used in dusty environments
hi bro
honda cb650r
is good choise motul300v?
change 3k 5k?
Yes, very good choice.
Hi can i use 300v on my Honda RS125cc underbone? Im using motul H-tech fully synthetic now its good but i want to try the 300v....any suggestion? Is it good for 125cc bike?
Waste of money unless you're revving the crap out of it like in those Thailand drag bikes
300v the best nothing like this in the world..
Thank you for adding to the conversation
I'm thinking about changing my oil to the 300V for my Ducati Supersport 939 but the engine says Shell oil only. Thoughts?
That's a result of a partnership between shell and ducati. Yamaha makes oil and says to only use yamalube in the bikes. KTM has a partnership with Motorex that does the same thing. Oil is oil, this will work fine. I'm using this in my Yamaha and it works perfectly, and from what I'm reading, half the UK dealers for ducati use this from stock anyways.
Cheers,
I'd be carefull if your bike is still under warranty. They might not honor the warranty if you use a different oil.
But most wrnty are only 12months. I just got a bike and I'm looking at $2,000 dollars if I use the dealer at my 600mile brk in and my 7,500 mile service. I'm at 550 and the bike had zero issues.
Now do I think I'm gonna have problems in the next 11 months. Probably not. So I'm gonna do my own service and at 8,000 mile I'll have a guy that has a shop in my small town that knows his stuff and will check and adjust ( if it even needs it ) my valve clearence. For about $400
Do I spend $2,000 in the next 10 months just in case I need warranty? I doubt I'll have any problems b4 the wrnty runs out so I'm saving my $$$ and doing my own oil changes. Anyway something to think about b4 going against manufacturers recommendations.
Is this good and compatible for 150cc?
I wouldn't see why not but because the pressures on a 150 aren't as high it's probably a more expensive oil than you need. Check out the Motul 7100. Thank you for watching. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
What filter can correspond to a 8000 mile oil change though?
OEM. As I state in the video the manufacturer service requirement using their hybrid oil is 8K so. We all change our oil at 3K. I did this to prove that for anything short of track use that's not necessary. I also use an OEM air filter. If you use one of the "race" air filters that let dirt through this wouldn't apply.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam Thanks for that extra bit of info. I ordered the 300V and I appreciate the time and effort in studying it's tolerances. Most of us only have opinions about oils we have zero evidence of. But we speak of them as fact 🤣😂🤣
In india we have this pil and it only last 4000km. People say that it last less because its a racing engine oil. Afyer watching your vedio I actually think that motul is selling less quality engine oil in India and the pack is only available in 1ltr.
I doubt you're getting a different oil. A lot of people are misinformed about the durability and duty cycles of all oils not just 300v. That's why I did this video. India is a dusty environment compared to Europe or the US. Depending on the air filter you use the longevity of any oil will be impacted greatly.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam oddly enough i was watching some other videos on this oil and a fella from india was filling his engine with 300v that was amber/brown in color.
So it seems they do have a different variety or blend over in india for some particular and or peculiar reason. Havent really done a deep dive into it, since im not in india and its somewhat irrelevant to me but its just an observation.
His comment kinda made me go "hmmmm?"
@100GTAGUY I'd imagine it wasn't 300v but rather one of tge other Motul oils which frankly would be better and less expensive in dusty, lower reving applications
@@100GTAGUYim from india and i have used 300v twice and no its not amber in colour. Its green and gives a nice smell as well. Im sure it was some other scam oil being sold as motul. Happens a lot in india. There are also vids by many indian youtubers how to spot the original motul product
Where did you buy that oil catcher pan?
I bought it at either an auto parts store or Walmart but this is the same one on Amazon
www.amazon.com/Dorman-95-1371-Drain-Pan-15/dp/B0024G1T9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?crid=2U1KC8DIO90XN&keywords=oil+pans+for+changing+oil&qid=1638421489&sprefix=oil+pan%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-30
Did u Reb up your bike as normal or litle higher that normal drives ?????
My riding is a mixture. I don't wring it out to red line all the time and I do a fair amount of highway cruising but I also do quite a few drag strip test and tune nights. Also, the main reason I have the bike is I've always owned something capable of extreme speeds and take 165mph plus runs on a regular basis to get my fix.
Kindly recommend engine oil for suzuki gixxer 155 cc fi abs
This oil would be overkill for that bike. Maybe the Motul 7100. It's better for air cooled engines.
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam Thank you. I really appreciate you.
Is this okay to use on a 155cc scooter?
It's overkill for that. The other Motul oils would be better for an air cooled engine.
I've been doing research into motul oil with the Ester additive. I wasn't sure what oil to get because they also have the 7100 1040 oil. I thought that the 300v was just for race tracks only. I'm an avid Rider and I read everyday. It would save me a great deal of money for oil that protects very well and also the longevity of the oil is up to par. I definitely want to use motul 300v oil for my next Oil Change. Quick question, I know you said that the factory oil filters would be the best but by any chance have you tried the hiflofiltro oil filter and how does it work...?
I only use OEM or Purolator
The target market for 300v is the track rider or racer. If it can survive that environment where longevity of tires and brakes are measured in minutes it will protect you on the street.
What’s the name of the tune at 2:17 man
YV-Lune {NCS Release}
If you ride these liter bikes like they’re supposed to be ridden you should be changing the oil every 2000 miles max and oil filter every 4000 miles max. Every single person I know that follows the manufacturer recommendations need valves adjusted at the first interval. People that change it more frequently go 3 or 4 valve inspections before anything is out of spec.
28000 miles and my valves needed no adjustment at last check. Of course you're clearly a street Rossi so certainly my lifetime of pro racing experience, instructing, lab analysis results and Honda's specified 8K interval means nothing. My bet is you ride like an ass rev bombing and use a worthless piece of shit racing filter on the street because of course you're a Rossi. Go away.
First time to use this oil in my 150 cc bore up mio old bike 2007 drive it around 600km + in a day in indonesia, only have good things to say about the motul 300v oil , was gonna change it after 1500km but have a feeling i can change it after 3000 or 5000km
Will keep you posted how it when
Thank you for watching and commenting your experience.
Update : was going around my are with the tune up yamaha mio , got a blow out of the engine , will update what happen and how the oil holding up
12xx kilometers since the oil change
300V or 7100 - ?? :)
What do you mean? Are you asking which Motul?
@@MonacoGP_On_UA-cam yes, Motul 300V or Motul 7100 - who is better? :)
@@radekt51 I haven't used the 7100. The 300V is amazing. If the engine is smaller than the 1000cc I have or if you're in a dusty environment then the 7100 is probably a better choice.
So does that mean I can save a buttload of $ if I just stick to rotella T6 since I do my oil changes at 5k miles anyway?
Well that's up to you. The point here is two fold.
1.) There's no need to be doing changes every 3K for normal riding even w/ drag strip use. Track would be a different matter and I can't contribute info to that specific set of circumstances.
2.) The tested indicators of engine wear are the same in parts per million for 300V 4T at 8500 miles as it is for Rotella and other results I found at just 5000 miles. That means there is significant less engine wear with the Motul.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
Ahh ahh, your vids is confusing.