My friend purchased one of these Schwaben Pressure Bleeders from ECS Tuning and it did not hold air pressure, due to a defective pump valve. Even though it was defective, ECS Tuning would not replace it because it was purchased beyond the 90 day return policy when he first went to use it. ECS Tuning gave him the run around telling him that "no, he could not return it", then "yes, he could return it", FOUR TIMES before declining to replace it. He was really pissed and will not buy from them again.
I have now about 8 or 9 track days with the front and rear DTC-60s and the pads are down to 4mm and change. The pads are wearing unevenly(radially) but they are still doing the job. I am stopping from 117mph at Atessa CW on the GR86 (I saw your BMW car this Sunday but I couldn't find you). Anyways, the rubber booths are starting to crack (front ones), the OEM rotors are still holding very well, no cracks or grooves (made in Japan rotors 100%) that might explain the good metallurgic. My Castrol SRF fluid looks very clear after 8-9 sessions. I haven't changed the lines yet because the pedal still feels firm. I would like to put at least some wilwoods BBK although I prefer AP Racing but they are way more.
Hmm, I'd say 8-10, maybe? Depending on how you drive and braking techniques. I have 4 track days on mine and 3mm of pad left, they start at 6.5mm I think.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks I think that’s a good ball park, lot of Black Friday deals on the DCT-60 right now, looking to grab a set after I devour some turkey… have a Happy Thanksgiving!!
Hi Justin, what’s your take on people slamming on big brake kits on the twins? Have heard of owners swapping back to stock brake system with pads + fluids Realistically what you have replaced in this video should be plenty for a lapping day ya?
For stock/low power cars, the OEM brakes are fine (with good pads & fluid, of course). There are some benefits to a motorsport level or big brake style kit. Mostly convenience of changing pads, more heat tolerance and longevity, plus potentially big weight savings (like the AP Racing Sprint kit I had on my old BRZ). But yea, for most applications on low power the OEM brakes are fine. As you add more power and the car is faster, that is when I'd start looking at a higher performing BBK. Or, if you want to save every pound possible in weight savings.
Did the stock PS4 tires get enough heat in the DTC60 pads? Do you swap rotors when going back to the OEM pads for street driving? I'm in the process of selecting pads for my first track day with the GR86, but I know I'll want to put the OEM pads back on afterwards (it's a daily driver)
Yes, just takes a little bit longer, depending on track layout (more/longer braking zones = quicker). I don't swap rotors, just pads,.and I do put OEM pads on for daily driving as well.
I haven't had it on an alignment rack yet. It's minimal according to SPC, like -1.75 range. I'd also look into the Pedders caster/camber top mounts. Still simple but more camber adjustment.
@@TheBTRGarage Thanks mang! I just did my first flush on my GR86 last week using Motive Power Bleeder. What a game changer! Have you ever tried to flush using the Dry Method? Where you just pressurize the brake reservior, then keep refilling and re-pressurize? This would avoid having to clean out the power bleeder😅
Does the camber bolts have a little resistance at first when screwing it in? Mines came in today but I feel that resistance and I'm scared it'll snap if I tighten it too far.
They do! It is the Ford 1107 one that fits. My kit actually came with that reservoir cap adapter, but I didn't know it fit the 86 platform until I got my GR86 :( The problem is that there is no hose adapter that connects to the quick release that come on the BMW adapter. I had to pull the hose off the plastic fitting on the bleeder and connect the 86 adapter hose with a new hose clamp. Per their applications page "The SCION FRS or Toyota 86 use the 1107 Cap as it is built on a Subaru chassis"
@@TheBTRGarage Thanks for the info. Schwaben does not make a cap for Subarus. Are you sure you didn't buy a Motive Ford 1107 cap, then adapt it to the Schwaben bottle?
@@patmickelson Ahh man, you're right! I've got it all mixed up :( I had to look back at my purchase history...I bought the Ford 1107 cap back in April of 2016 to adapt to my Schwaben bleeder. It is the Motiv website that says to use the Ford cap for your Subaru, not Schwaben. Jeez...sorry about that.
How do you know when you’ve truly gotten all of the old fluid out? It’s a new car so the old crappy fluid is the same clear yellow color as the new high temperature fluid
It's hard to tell 100% for sure. But, I think I showed in the video how to suck old fluid out of master cylinder with turkey baster. Then, just pump a good out amount of new fluid through each brake line. About the best you can do and that's usually good, never had a problem with it on many different cars.
With camber bolts and crash bolts you just max them out and call it good. With the SPC's, you can get it on an alignment rack and dial them in perfectly if you want, but we're talking like .05-.1° adjustments at that point. When you get to camber plates and things that have much more adjustability, alignment is required.
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My friend purchased one of these Schwaben Pressure Bleeders from ECS Tuning and it did not hold air pressure, due to a defective pump valve. Even though it was defective, ECS Tuning would not replace it because it was purchased beyond the 90 day return policy when he first went to use it. ECS Tuning gave him the run around telling him that "no, he could not return it", then "yes, he could return it", FOUR TIMES before declining to replace it. He was really pissed and will not buy from them again.
I have now about 8 or 9 track days with the front and rear DTC-60s and the pads are down to 4mm and change. The pads are wearing unevenly(radially) but they are still doing the job. I am stopping from 117mph at Atessa CW on the GR86 (I saw your BMW car this Sunday but I couldn't find you). Anyways, the rubber booths are starting to crack (front ones), the OEM rotors are still holding very well, no cracks or grooves (made in Japan rotors 100%) that might explain the good metallurgic. My Castrol SRF fluid looks very clear after 8-9 sessions. I haven't changed the lines yet because the pedal still feels firm. I would like to put at least some wilwoods BBK although I prefer AP Racing but they are way more.
That's kinda weird on the boots! I have not had anything like that on my GR86 yet, with about 2x the track days. Still going strong on OEM rotors too.
Subscribed. Great, to the point, basic demonstration.
Thanks!
Hi Justin great video as usual, how many track days do you think we can squeeze out of the Hawk DCT-60 pads?
Hmm, I'd say 8-10, maybe? Depending on how you drive and braking techniques. I have 4 track days on mine and 3mm of pad left, they start at 6.5mm I think.
@@TheBTRGarage thanks I think that’s a good ball park, lot of Black Friday deals on the DCT-60 right now, looking to grab a set after I devour some turkey… have a Happy Thanksgiving!!
I have done 8 or 9 track events already on the Hawks DTC -60 on my GR-86. The last 2 time attacks at Musselman Honda Circuit we did 94 and 91 laps.
Hi Justin, what’s your take on people slamming on big brake kits on the twins? Have heard of owners swapping back to stock brake system with pads + fluids
Realistically what you have replaced in this video should be plenty for a lapping day ya?
For stock/low power cars, the OEM brakes are fine (with good pads & fluid, of course). There are some benefits to a motorsport level or big brake style kit. Mostly convenience of changing pads, more heat tolerance and longevity, plus potentially big weight savings (like the AP Racing Sprint kit I had on my old BRZ).
But yea, for most applications on low power the OEM brakes are fine. As you add more power and the car is faster, that is when I'd start looking at a higher performing BBK. Or, if you want to save every pound possible in weight savings.
Awesome vid thanks for the info!
Glad to help!
Did the stock PS4 tires get enough heat in the DTC60 pads? Do you swap rotors when going back to the OEM pads for street driving? I'm in the process of selecting pads for my first track day with the GR86, but I know I'll want to put the OEM pads back on afterwards (it's a daily driver)
Yes, just takes a little bit longer, depending on track layout (more/longer braking zones = quicker). I don't swap rotors, just pads,.and I do put OEM pads on for daily driving as well.
@@TheBTRGarage That's good to hear, thanks for the insight!
hi Justin, when the smaller lower bolt is moved to the top, it's has free play. Is it ok? will it move if hit potholes?
It should fine if torqued to the correct specs. But, a really bad pothole could potentially move it. Worst case is you just re-align it.
How much camber were you able to squeeze out with the SPC camber bolts? I think I’m going to go that route.
I haven't had it on an alignment rack yet. It's minimal according to SPC, like -1.75 range. I'd also look into the Pedders caster/camber top mounts. Still simple but more camber adjustment.
I have used the ATE 200 in last couple cars, and worked great! Was 1L enough to do full flush?
1L should be enough, but getting 2 would be safe and for future system bleeds.
@@TheBTRGarage Thanks mang! I just did my first flush on my GR86 last week using Motive Power Bleeder. What a game changer! Have you ever tried to flush using the Dry Method? Where you just pressurize the brake reservior, then keep refilling and re-pressurize? This would avoid having to clean out the power bleeder😅
@@FujiboHeavy awesome! Yea I never clean out my power bleeder, always has fluid it in.
@@TheBTRGarage ahhh sounds like a better idea lol. So you can store the unused fresh fluid in there👍🏼
Does the camber bolts have a little resistance at first when screwing it in? Mines came in today but I feel that resistance and I'm scared it'll snap if I tighten it too far.
Maybe a little bit, just make sure they are not cross-threading and should be fine.
The Schwaben brake bleeder you use doesn't come with a brake reservoir cap for Subarus. They don't even make one. Did you make your own? If so, how?
They do! It is the Ford 1107 one that fits. My kit actually came with that reservoir cap adapter, but I didn't know it fit the 86 platform until I got my GR86 :(
The problem is that there is no hose adapter that connects to the quick release that come on the BMW adapter. I had to pull the hose off the plastic fitting on the bleeder and connect the 86 adapter hose with a new hose clamp.
Per their applications page "The SCION FRS or Toyota 86 use the 1107 Cap as it is built on a Subaru chassis"
@@TheBTRGarage Thanks for the info. Schwaben does not make a cap for Subarus. Are you sure you didn't buy a Motive Ford 1107 cap, then adapt it to the Schwaben bottle?
@@patmickelson Ahh man, you're right! I've got it all mixed up :( I had to look back at my purchase history...I bought the Ford 1107 cap back in April of 2016 to adapt to my Schwaben bleeder. It is the Motiv website that says to use the Ford cap for your Subaru, not Schwaben. Jeez...sorry about that.
That Subaru cap is a PITA to put on/off
@@TheBTRGarage how did you adapt the motive ford 1107 cap to connect to the schwaben pressure bleeder?
How do you know when you’ve truly gotten all of the old fluid out? It’s a new car so the old crappy fluid is the same clear yellow color as the new high temperature fluid
It's hard to tell 100% for sure. But, I think I showed in the video how to suck old fluid out of master cylinder with turkey baster. Then, just pump a good out amount of new fluid through each brake line. About the best you can do and that's usually good, never had a problem with it on many different cars.
When you are flushing , you normally use so much fluid that you should of gotten all of the old stuff out. That’s why buy 2 cans in case
What is that orange stuff you put on the pads? And does it just go on the edges? Looks like an anti squeal paste?
Yea it's just anti-squeak, not really necessary but can help reduce noise if you have any squeaking. Yes the edges where pad ends seat in caliper.
@@TheBTRGarage ty!
What are the torque specs for front and rear calipers?
For the caliper bolts that hold the brake pads in, it is like 19ft.lb. For those I personally just use hand tight feel, since it is low.
What adapter did you use for brake bleeder?
It's the one from rhe Motiv brake bleeder with BRZ/GR86 reservoir fitting: amzn.to/3UMYQbC
No wheel alignment after the camber?
I use my home tools, but not really necessary with such a tiny change.
@@TheBTRGarage Ahh OK, I was under the impression that it would be something you needed to do.
With camber bolts and crash bolts you just max them out and call it good. With the SPC's, you can get it on an alignment rack and dial them in perfectly if you want, but we're talking like .05-.1° adjustments at that point. When you get to camber plates and things that have much more adjustability, alignment is required.
@@TheBTRGarage thank you justin-san.