Freeze gallon milk jugs or gallon zip lock bags instead of loose cubes. Block ice lasts so much longer and the containers keep the cooler from filling with water.
@@hanelyp1 You can even buy distilled water in those gallon jugs for around $1, if one happens to be lactose intolerant or just want the convenience and clean up factor. Also, I realise it should be common sense, but the colder everything going in initially, the less heat will transfer into the ice. Nothing should be above 2°C/35°F when starting out for better results.
So I am in the Army, I buy a cheap foam cooler and spray it with plastidip before a rotation or field problem, I do some thing very similar. I put dry ice in double bags then put a piece of plastic a buffer between the food and drinks. So dry ice bags, plastics then food/drinks.
Hell yes. I remember a passing scene in Gettysburg where one of the characters walks past the cook and the image of the wagon stocked with utensils and ingredients has stuck with me ever since. Your finished product is everything I wanted.
I had the experience of wandering off the site of our Viking event and into a confederate campsite. Reenactors, me included, being the nerds we all are, I told them the last thing I knew I was in a little red phone booth.....After the shock wore off, we IMMEDIATELY started showing off our handmade kit and gear. Besides a few double takes from onlookers, and a joke about illicit recruiting from the Union camp we had an amazing time. When I returned to the Viking event in time for the feast, I explained that I had briefly visited the American Civil War. And i wonder if I'll ever find that phone booth again....
One thing you can do with a version 2 is have the side door swing off the bottom instead of the side, and double as a cutting board. Or alternatively swing off the top and use some dowl rods as supports to make a makeshift countertop and cutting board. I hope my ideas make sense 😅
Agree with this. Great up with a similar wooden camp box (no cooler) that had the front fold down to act as a shelf or prep surface. Really effective solution.
Agreed! Also maybe open the opposite side of the box to hold a blade sharpener and all of the knives any chef would use. They all would fit on the door, so it wouldn't take much room
I thought about suggesting something similar for a cutting board, but the KISS design principle (keep it simple, stupid) makes me think that a cavity/slot inside for 1-2 removable cutting boards would be a better idea. An attached cutting board is cooler, but you're more limited by where you can use it.
Insulation tip we use at medieval markets: these silver and golden car emergency blankets. Small but noticable difference at no volume at all! Love this chest!
If you ever decide to actually use this, Id recommend replacing the wood separator at top with a serving tray setup. That way you can lift your dishes out in one go instead of piece by piece.
Ok, I'm sure someone already suggested this, but I'd love to see a tap added to the cooler that (and this is the part I'm really excited about) can connect to a container of frozen drinking water. This would serve several purposes: when frozen, the drinking water acts as block ice, which melts slower than the bagged stuff; by draining the meltwater, you slow the melting even more; using the water for drinking/cooking means you don't have to carry extra water; and finally, LARPing can be hot, so a cold drink is often appreciated. Also, if you just make a reservoir the size of block ice that you can buy, you don't have to make your own block and you can even fill it with standard drink ice. Oh yeah, it also keeps your cold goodies dry!
As cool as a tap would be, I think it would be a logistical problem. Tho the drinking water idea is spot on, and can easily replace the loose ice to make more room in the cooler for food. Someone in an above comment suggested it.
I'd sort of cut out the middle man instead of Ice I'd fill 2L Pepsi or any soft drink (Soda for the Americans) bottles with water and freeze them as they melt you can leave them there or use the water either way at the end of the LARP you can just empty the bottles out also they get over the problem of the water from the melted Ice getting into your food. Side hint if you take one of the bottles 3/4 fill it and then press the centre of the bottle in till you force the water to the top, cap it and freeze it, it makes a great rest to put behind your neck to help you cool down when it is as my father used to say 'a hundred in the water bag' ( a water bag is a canvas bag you'd hang off the bull bar of your car, ute or 4WD and the air passing over the bag and the wicking of the bag would cool your water)
You should try and fill in the gaps around the cooler foam and the chest with some spray foam. It would lock it in a bit better so it can't move around and should provide a little more insulation. Though you're probably already at the point of diminishing returns already.
I was thinking that a hard, spray foam would be an excellent addition because it is lightweight by design and it would add a modicum of thermal insulation. A single can would be more than enough to accomplish the job and is still pretty inexpensive. Finally, if you added a tap to help drain the cooler before filling the gap it would help to hold the tube/pipe that you'd use for that purpose in its place. It's a Win, Win, Win. If you use hard foam it'll provide a fair bit of extra strength and rigidity where soft foam would provide additional insulation and resiliency. the choice is up to the builder, but I heartily recommend it.
Came here to say just this. I think it would be a great addition for both reasons. More insulation/less air and air infiltration and should as you point out, really lock it in.
If this is for a long weekend you should factor in the use of dry ice. Maybe a thin, hole'y box to put the dry ice in or... use the bottom of the storage side somehow to store the dry ice so it vents the cold from the dry ice to the normal ice and keeps the normal ice from melting. I remember a hundred years ago when I used to go camping all the time, we had two boxes like this. One was set up as a prep and cook, and the other was set for a sink. This would have been a great third box given that coolers can set you back a grand these days, luckily they used to not cost more than a hundred bucks for the best ones.
I have to wonder if a dry ice chamber on the top of the cooler would be better? Cold air sinks, so maybe bagged (wet) ice on the bottom and dry ice on to top to better cool everything?
@@dynamystic3050 the problem with that is you have to move it every time you want to get something out. In a well sealed small volume container the advantage is negligible.
How did the water removal work out? Was it cumbersome? Would you consider adding a tap? Also, I’d be interested in seeing an aesthetic but useable dolly to help maneuver these larger pieces.
I was wondering the same thing. With the current setup to drain the water you would have to scoop it out and air dry or tip the whole thing upside down which isn't ideal with ghe pantry section.
That was *exactly* my first thought too. I live in the Pacific Northwest and mold & mildew hit hard and fast if you're not careful. I didn't see any way to lift the cooler out to drain it, so that's the only modification I'd make -- a drain system. Otherwise, this is spectacular!
That's a really neat idea. It reminds me of the kitchen boxes we had in Scouts. Ours were bigger (and oh boy were they heavier!), and they didn't have a cooler section. But what they did have is legs. Four stool legs strapped to the bottom while carrying it, and you could have it sit a couple feet up off the ground in camp so you don't have to bend down to get at what's inside. It is certainly a great set-up as-is. Very good use of space. Very well done indeed!
The legs are a great idea! My parents made a "camp box" with all the utensils, cookware, etc, and we would just set it on one end of the table to have it at working height. Effective, but it did mean the last two feet of the table wasn't usable for eating.
I would make a smallish table that the box itself would nest inside of or table on top of the box. The sides of the table and legs would keep the top lid and panty door secure while moving....take table off the top, set table on the ground, set box on top of table. one, it would help get it off the ground directly. and two, if you put drainage in the insulated part, use bottle/pan to collect the water....gravity does the work. another idea to move the box around....medieval dollie. or just put some medieval type wheels on the thing. think like buckler sized wheels....not the wooden spoked ones. 18 inch 3/4 plywood would do. make the wheels removable, and run the axle through the space between the bottom of the box and the bottom of the cooler. That way you would only have to drag the thing instead of carrying it, especially if it is fully loaded. Work smarter not harder.
Super cool chest! I'd love a vid of you actually cooking with this. Like, add as much food as you'd want, and just do a quick cook-up over a campfire or something. I know you've already done a campfire cooking vid, but it would still be different to see you limited to the tools in the chast, I think.
When I was 9 years old I was in a woodworking club through 4-H. I made a foot stool, as did each of my brothers. My eldest brother obtained something that is next to impossible to find these days, 2"x10" knot free boards. I just grabbed utility grade boards (same dimensions) from the scrap pile. He sanded his smooth and did clear shellac and his sugar pine foot stool shined bright! I did not want to mess with the brush and all that, so I torch finished mine. Simply ran over the entire exposed surface with a propane torch. It brought out the wood grain into an attractive texture. That was 49 years ago, I still use that stool. I can see this is another project of yours I will be adapting...
I've also seen a tutorial where someone took on of the normal chap coolers that are basically just two walls of plastic with an air gap cut holes in them filled the internal space with gap filler spray insulation then patched the holes with plastic, still not as good as like a Yeti but still a big step up from your typical camp cooler.
This is exactly what we need for our medival camp! Most events take a whole weekend, so when its really hot outside it would be awesome to have a cooler, even if this only last like 1-2 days. Even then we could simply switch out the Ice if a store is nearby for a quick pick-up. My friend and fellow camp-member just gifted me this awesome big chest for my birthday, which we used as a storage for Drinks like beerbottles and schnaps. But its so big that we could equip half of it with one of these self-build cooler-units! So even if some of the cool air leaks out, maybe this would passive-cool our drinks too!? How awesome would that be!? Ok now I need to go and find some Foam Boards...
I love this. This could also be used for other trades besides cooking. Picturing a traveling blacksmith or cobbler, though with that much weight, probably have to add wheels.
@Skill Tree Hahaha! A tiny portable kiln for knifesmithing on the road 😂 Now that I think about it, The Modern Rogue made one out of a paint can and plaster of Paris... might actually be doable 🤔 Might wanna go hardwood on that trunk though
Lumber and Building material associate at Home Depot here, I love your channel and just stumbled upon it recently. A piece of advice I would give would be to have added reflective roll insulation to the inside of the interior walls where you put the supports for the outer walls, this would block a little more radiant heat from warming up the cooler. You also could have placed some extra 1/2 inch insulation board into those cavities as well. Maybe you could have used loose blow-in insulation or fiberglass insulation to pack it loosely, to fill in any voids around the cooler.
You should make a homemade hand truck/dolly or wagon to move it around with. It will help when it’s too heavy to carry, plus it fits in with the whole wandering chef theme. Of you are wondering, who wants to lug around a heavy chest by hand, better to have it on wheels!
Another addition is that wood piece that separates your food from your plates could be a butcher block cutting board (which could also double as a platter or serving tray)
Pro tip for making your cooler stay cool for longer; place a block of dry ice at the bottom, bury it in normal ice. It will take alot longer to melt, and will be MUCH colder. Will explode your drinks though, so be mindful. Love you man, thanks for another neat project!
THIS Royal Ranger Commander is going to propose this idea to our outpost. With some minor mods I bet we can use this on our campouts and Pow Wows. I like your Vids. You have a lot of great ideas.
Make a copper box with pre plumbed for a water spigot, glue the foam to the copper box before construction of the outer chest . If you are worried about copper brass and steel are fine just sure to use only silver solder for the seams not lead (for obvious reasons).
Just wanted to let you know that I am saddlestitching the felt cat ears for my child's Halloween costume while watching this video. Very useful little technique I learned from you! Saved me quite a but of money 😉
Tinfoil inner wall and base beneath, spray foam gap between tinfoil and blue insulation. Cool the cooler with some sacrificial ice for a few hours, empty, then fill with the “working” ice, if some food items are for a few days into the trip, freeze them before loading. There are ways of making ice last longer before melting, slabbed ice, salt in ice before freezing, distilled water. With the dark colours used, they are heat magnets, drape with dampened white cotton sheet. 👍 great video 👍
You need 3. A cooler, a dry pantry and a BIG pot for hot water. All of your smaller pots and pans are stored in the big pot. As soon as your fire is ready, the big pot is filled with water and goes on the fire. Because you ALWAYS need hot water.
@@SkillTree one of the other comments mentioned some detachable legs - maybe you can make the feet with legs that hinge up to the bottom, so you can set it on the ground or prop it up for easier working height
Something like this with a triple walled tin box with a lacquer inner coating in place of the cooler (a wall around the actual storage, a wall outside that to make a cavity for putting ice into, and a third cavity between that and the outer wall for putting insulation (maybe loose wool or layers of felt?) inside of; the lacquer coating should thoroughly waterproof the interior) could work really well as a travel cook’s chest that lives on the party’s wagon.
I have a D&D character, a kenku trickster cleric of Anoia, the Goddess of Stuck Drawers. They would have one of these, but with more gelatin molds. Everything they make is those weird aspic meals from the 50s :D
Seems like a homemade Wannigan. The duct tape will actually take away some of the R value because it is made with aluminum to conduct heat better for duct work. Great Piece, love the leatherwork.
Wow... 5 days of ice, using less than 30 bucks of material is impressive ! Here are a few ideas I have to improve insulation : - Space blanket, they are really good at reflecting heat. I'd wrap the plastic container with it. - A layer of spray on insulation, like cork spray. To make continuous layers that would work well against thermal bridges. - Sealing ! Tape is not enough to stop air from going through the foam boards. I'd look for a good candidat at that. Heat seal ? Cork spray ? I don't really know - Removing the plastic container during construction. Gluing it was good for the first steps of construction, but it got in the way when you add to have a really straight edge on top for the lid to be as close as possible of the rest of the insulation. - Heat cutting : Heat cutters are really, really, really good when you work with foam ! - A way to apply pressure between the lid with the body of the cooler, like in a store bought one. That might be hard to do, because it would require the cooler to have a rigid casing and that's... A lot more work. Also... That might be... Tricky, buuuuut... Expanding foam ? R-Value is great, no thermal bridge, no cutting and jointing... Might end in catastrophic failure, but I guess that might work !
For my reenactment furniture, instead of polyurethane, I use a formula I got from a master woodworker. It worker really well, and can quickly be reapplied as needed for heavy used items. It's 2 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part v m & p naphtha, and 1 part marine spar varnish. It is really good for wooden items like this that get heavy indoor/outdoor use. Also, I need to make this.
You could also use rockwool. The r value is 23 typically and it's moisture resistant while drying quickly. Some paint on fiberglass will allow you to bond it effectively allowing you to shape it into an effective insulating shell. Especially if you affix it to the plastic. Keep the lip and just cut out the little pastic supporting tabs. You can tuck it under the lip and seal it with mod podge (food safe glue). Food for thought
As a formerly avid medievalist and chronic DIY'er, and looking at the price of current GOOD coolers, which start at around $300 for a small one, which typically rhymes with Betty or Market, this is an absolutely FANTASTIC idea, and I am looking to undertake this same project in the VERY near future.
I worked at a blood bank for a fe years. We shipped blood all over the USA including Hawaii. As well as Puerto Rico. We used these wax sealed cardboard boxes with inch thick foam insulation two short ones for the ends and four long ones for the sides and bottom and top. We used those square blue plastic ice packs filled with water. Once they were frozen they lasted about 3 days. If you can find them the Styrofoam boxes you can get medical supplies in work really good for coolers too and it already has a nice lid and four sides.
You can make the whole chest smaller with the same amount of storage by using sawdust and ice IN the plastic container. No need for the foam board. Up until 1927(when the first electronic fridge came out), Sawdust was packed around ice blocks in a box and transported by train across country, or in ships across oceans. It was also used in icehouses for keeping ice all summer long.
Next time instead of xps foam try thermal bubble wrap you can get r8 at only 1/4" think. I like the steamer trunk look the leather on there is so cool. Great job
Alternate trunk carrying method: Requires two people. Free hanging leather straps across the top, back, underside, and front, these can slide off after carrying, but are a close-fit. Secondary straps attached to the top of those free hanging straps. Secondary straps loop and connect closely at the free hanging straps, and the other end create two loops sizing several inch diameter. Slide your walking stick through the loops. One person in front, one at the back, carrying on the shoulder to evenly distribute the weight of the trunk! Alternate: create buckled straps for ease of use. ... That was a really long explanation to say 'make some close fitting straps, make some free hanging straps, hang a walking stick between them'. lol 💜
Some kind of thermal reflecting layer on top of it would probably bring that up to a full week. Looks amazing and I bet you're excited to bring that for the next event.
Actually, putting a layer of thermal reflec (roofing reflec with the thin foam backing) UNDER the chest helps a lot - the ground for most of the year is warmer than the night time air temperature, in some places it may be warmer than the day temperature heading into winter.
@@brucelee3388 By on top I was referring to as a layer around the foam layering. Not literally only the top. That said, that info is going to be SUPER helpful, thanks!
something to consider - adding wheels, maybe a removeable rimmed, and wheeled platform , you could make the wheels small cartwheels and keep the handle set up as is for pulling the chest.
This project. Is. EPIC! The only thing I’d have tried to add would be a drain tube from the cooler for all that water to run out of as the ice melts. That way your food isn’t swimming, and also your kit gets lighter as the days go on!
Back in the way back day's, people used tin boxes set in a wood box. It would create frost on the sides of placed in a spring (i.e. a spring box) but you could use ice on the inside and get the same effect.
If you also freeze the food you are bringing, you cut down on the amount of ice you need and you can plan your meals around what will thaw when. Also the walls of the chest look like you could add a little more insulation there too if you were so inclined.
I need a cooler, so this has given me many ideas. Perhaps a metal tub and some way to cover or encase the foam could be used so that you don’t open it up and see plastic and styrofoam. This was an excellent build. You’ve given us lots of inspiration. The pantry on the end, the storage on top, all the straps and bumpers…so nice!
As someone who has done many SCA and ren faire events, you can buy a block of dry ice to double your cooler time limit. Also, if I had any notes, it would be to add a spigot on the side to help with draining the water without trashing the chest. All in all, looks fantastic!
Another way to sustain the ice is a good slab of dry ice in the bottom. Place the cube water ice on top, and it'll keep for far longer. Might turn the cooler into an ice cream freezer
Twas thinking, for long treks to a site, perhaps making a sort of simplish foldup or take apart cart. Which can hold the cooler, camping setup! Is this idea practical or to much weight!!!
Great project! You should look at old Boy Scout patrol boxes or field kitchens. A removable tray on top, and a cutting board for a work surface would be a great addition. I love your cooler!
You can use dry ice and the bottom of a another storage tub as a barrier to make it last even longer and you’ll get that cool smoky effect like the box is enchanted
Between the cooler tub and first layer of insulation, Reflectix cut to fit and sealed with foil tape to radiate the cold back into the tub, as well as a sheet of the Reflectix on the bottom face of the first layer of lid foam. Instead of bags of ice, use some sealable tubs with salt water in them. A solid block of ice has less surface area for melting than does cubes. The salt water requires a lower temperature point to freeze and will keep the cooler even colder throughout. And being sealed up, clean-up is just some paper towel when done. Instead of the Luan, get some (same thickness) plastic cutting board, now you have food prep surface also.
I love this Chef Box, as a once avid camper this would have been the ultimate camping add on for sure, along with a 2nd folding up vanity made into a box stand and double up as a dry food storage area would be great as it would lift the box off the ground allowing it to stay away from the heat transference of the earth, but will bring the cooler up-to a working a good working hight. I liked the idea someone had of making the end door to swing up as an extended workbench. Using Dry-ice would be great but this is something that is not ready available here in Australia, even our frozen goods are packed with jell packs. Here in Australia in the Gardning section there are these crystals that you can buy which absorbs water for the plants to use during the dryer days, if you filled a bucket with water and add the crystals to the water once they have absorbed the water you can bag them into the containers used for leftover meals to go into the freezer, they would be a great alternative as they are reusable and you can place your frozen food in between them that way the food for your day 5 will still be as cold almost as when you placed it into the freezer box. There are plastic food boxes about the size of the freezer box made and they are about 1.5 to 2 inches deep so they would make great freezer blocks. Done right you could have one between every 2nd days worth of frozen or cold food. I have made a few of my own freezer blocks as it was cheaper than buying the big freezer blocks lasted for years and once we stopped going camping I just dug them into the veggie boxes for my veggies to use.
There's actually a magic item in D&D that's basically a cooler, it's called the Chest of Preserving, and all it does is prevent the food inside it from spoiling. I imagine that some adventurers would upgrade one of those into this, as this seems like a logical evolution.
You can also keep the bags of ice in the bags or double bag them in hopes that you don't have to dump the water out as often and hopefully it will keep the ice frozen longer. Just a thought. I love the chest. Very cool piece of kit. 😁👍
If you do something like this again use actual duct tape for AC units. The tape is designed for insulation and sealing the seams of your ductwork on a heating and cooling system. You can pick it up at any big box store. I love your videos. Suggestion to build bone gauntlet and shin guards
Your concept of making a walking cook chest is so Great . The finished insides with everything in straps and the total look was simply fantastic. Love the wooden utensils and platters and bowls . Beautiful.
The large size and weight of the chest was probably why early pioneers mostly dried,smoked, and salt perserved their food instead of freezing dispite easy access to ice in Northern climates.
Ideas: making folding legs so its up off the ground during use. A port to drain the liquid. A bar to keep it open on windy days. These are just off the top of my head.
This is old on this video by now, but I do think a cool project to spring up from this would be the Traveling Tavern Crate. Combining some of the aesthetics from this, using some old style glass bottles, Plus maybe building a false barrel facade and having a tap from one of those pressurized growlers coming out the side of it. I know you said you can't do gluten so that rules out most beers, but hard ciders were a very common thing in those style taverns.
I cannot tell you how appreciative I am of you not including the sound of you cutting foam. I’m not even a fourth of the way in and I just had to go ahead and say that.
One possibility to increase the insulation might be to use spray foam to fill the void between the cooler and the wood frame. Also, this thing looks absolutely dope! Amazing job!
I cannot like this video enough. It’s absolutely amazing… I’m subscribed to A LOT of channels on UA-cam and yours is in my top 3 favorites!!! Thank you SO MUCH for everything that you do!!
THANK YOU! I have been needing a cooler for my LARP events. Was just going to make a travel chest thing for it to avoid full immersion breaking, but this is so much more badass.
Oh, another thing. There's a channel on UA-cam called Epic Upcycling. He does this trick with staining that looks just amazing. He does it with most of his projects, but he also has a video dedicated to this technique. I highly suggest you mimic it. Looks fantastic.
As others have said - for ice, fill some food grade plastic bottles with water ( large soda/pop bottles are effectively free) about 3/4 full with water and freeze in your freezer (deep freeze/chest freezer if you have access to one, they are a few degrees colder than the fridge freezer) and use those instead of 'party ice' from a store. You can drink the water from the bottle as it melts. I have made more than a couple of dozen reenactor grade chests over the years - you can make the frame first and fasten (nail, glue, screw) panels -inside- the frame, you can use 1/4"(6mm) and 1/2"(12mm) ply for the panels, just cut it so the grain goes vertically for a frame chest. Make the frame so it has very short legs - about 2"(50mm) - and you probably shouldn't have fixed rope handles on a chest with legs though - there are illuminations in manuscripts from the 1300's (Matthew Paris) showing looters carrying similar chests with a large loop of rope around the chest at each end just inside the legs. You can use 'loose pin' hinges inside the frame to hold the frame together, replace the loose pins with ones made from thick coat hanger wire (or fencing wire) and when the event is over you can pull the chest apart without tools and pack it under all your gear (in bags) in the boot or back seat of a small car. For the origin of this idea look at the 'House Greydragon' web site, developed by the late Master Terfan.
I've been binging these ever since my first episode, the thieves' gauntlets. Love the energy and the skill in these. Prime material, sir. Job well done. Another subscriber to you lists.
Wow this is great 👍, i agree with other comments that larger packs of frozen ice would probably last longer. But the functionality of this project is amazing! I bet i could make an amazing meal with this set up
You can freeze bags or jugs of water ahead of time and it will reduce the amount of water you have to drain. In addition to taking longer to thaw it also gives you drinkable water as the ice thaws. This will also save money on buying as many bags of ice and your water/ice containers are reusable.
I would probably add a Mylar space blanket or two to the cooler. If you could remove the plastic inner tote, I would put a Mylar layer between it and the foam. Add another (shiny side out) on the outside of the foam box. It would add essentially no weight, no bulk, and miniscule cost (you can pick up one for $1.50 US at Wal-Mart (early 2023). You could probably also get the same effect with a layer of aluminum foil.
I am sorry. I am going to have to rip this off and make my own version because this is a level of Nerd-Cool-Greatness that must be achieved. It calls to me. I was able to resist until you had to go out and put in the vials of spices and the Tankard and everything else and now I must build it.
Freeze gallon milk jugs or gallon zip lock bags instead of loose cubes. Block ice lasts so much longer and the containers keep the cooler from filling with water.
if you do the gallon bags you can freeze then to perfectly sit in the cooler.
Ice in plastic jugs can also be used as water as it melts.
@@hanelyp1
You can even buy distilled water in those gallon jugs for around $1, if one happens to be lactose intolerant or just want the convenience and clean up factor.
Also, I realise it should be common sense, but the colder everything going in initially, the less heat will transfer into the ice. Nothing should be above 2°C/35°F when starting out for better results.
So I am in the Army, I buy a cheap foam cooler and spray it with plastidip before a rotation or field problem, I do some thing very similar. I put dry ice in double bags then put a piece of plastic a buffer between the food and drinks. So dry ice bags, plastics then food/drinks.
I like the ½gal juice jugs. Higher grade plastic and 2 of them are easier to pack food around.
As a chef who has cooked at many a reenactment event (and will be again this weekend) this video was an insta-watch.
You could even make a cooler with a much bigger tub with this method
Coronet?
A wind washer, eh. You wouldn't have any relation to those who rinse the wind, would you?
Yes I am a big Diskworld nerd and I make no apologies.
Bro, same!
Hell yes. I remember a passing scene in Gettysburg where one of the characters walks past the cook and the image of the wagon stocked with utensils and ingredients has stuck with me ever since. Your finished product is everything I wanted.
So glad you enjoyed!
I had the experience of wandering off the site of our Viking event and into a confederate campsite. Reenactors, me included, being the nerds we all are, I told them the last thing I knew I was in a little red phone booth.....After the shock wore off, we IMMEDIATELY started showing off our handmade kit and gear. Besides a few double takes from onlookers, and a joke about illicit recruiting from the Union camp we had an amazing time. When I returned to the Viking event in time for the feast, I explained that I had briefly visited the American Civil War. And i wonder if I'll ever find that phone booth again....
One thing you can do with a version 2 is have the side door swing off the bottom instead of the side, and double as a cutting board. Or alternatively swing off the top and use some dowl rods as supports to make a makeshift countertop and cutting board. I hope my ideas make sense 😅
Agree with this. Great up with a similar wooden camp box (no cooler) that had the front fold down to act as a shelf or prep surface. Really effective solution.
Agreed!
Also maybe open the opposite side of the box to hold a blade sharpener and all of the knives any chef would use. They all would fit on the door, so it wouldn't take much room
I thought about suggesting something similar for a cutting board, but the KISS design principle (keep it simple, stupid) makes me think that a cavity/slot inside for 1-2 removable cutting boards would be a better idea.
An attached cutting board is cooler, but you're more limited by where you can use it.
@@kachirroI was thinking knife rack in the lid.
Super idea
Insulation tip we use at medieval markets: these silver and golden car emergency blankets. Small but noticable difference at no volume at all! Love this chest!
I was wondering if that could have been an additional solution for insulation. Glad to see my guts were right
Are you talking about mylar blankets?
oh, that's what they are called in english? yeah, those :)@@KenCoppola
You can buy quilted mylar insulation in rolls that has a much higher R value for not a lot of added thickness.
If you ever decide to actually use this, Id recommend replacing the wood separator at top with a serving tray setup. That way you can lift your dishes out in one go instead of piece by piece.
A tea tray with drainage slats would be nice.
I don't understand how this channel isn't as big as it should be. I've binged so many good videos that has inspired so many ideas I want to do.
Ok, I'm sure someone already suggested this, but I'd love to see a tap added to the cooler that (and this is the part I'm really excited about) can connect to a container of frozen drinking water. This would serve several purposes: when frozen, the drinking water acts as block ice, which melts slower than the bagged stuff; by draining the meltwater, you slow the melting even more; using the water for drinking/cooking means you don't have to carry extra water; and finally, LARPing can be hot, so a cold drink is often appreciated. Also, if you just make a reservoir the size of block ice that you can buy, you don't have to make your own block and you can even fill it with standard drink ice. Oh yeah, it also keeps your cold goodies dry!
As cool as a tap would be, I think it would be a logistical problem. Tho the drinking water idea is spot on, and can easily replace the loose ice to make more room in the cooler for food. Someone in an above comment suggested it.
I'd sort of cut out the middle man instead of Ice I'd fill 2L Pepsi or any soft drink (Soda for the Americans) bottles with water and freeze them as they melt you can leave them there or use the water either way at the end of the LARP you can just empty the bottles out also they get over the problem of the water from the melted Ice getting into your food. Side hint if you take one of the bottles 3/4 fill it and then press the centre of the bottle in till you force the water to the top, cap it and freeze it, it makes a great rest to put behind your neck to help you cool down when it is as my father used to say 'a hundred in the water bag' ( a water bag is a canvas bag you'd hang off the bull bar of your car, ute or 4WD and the air passing over the bag and the wicking of the bag would cool your water)
@@alankohn6709 we call it pop, Sassenach.
You should try and fill in the gaps around the cooler foam and the chest with some spray foam. It would lock it in a bit better so it can't move around and should provide a little more insulation. Though you're probably already at the point of diminishing returns already.
I was thinking that a hard, spray foam would be an excellent addition because it is lightweight by design and it would add a modicum of thermal insulation. A single can would be more than enough to accomplish the job and is still pretty inexpensive. Finally, if you added a tap to help drain the cooler before filling the gap it would help to hold the tube/pipe that you'd use for that purpose in its place. It's a Win, Win, Win. If you use hard foam it'll provide a fair bit of extra strength and rigidity where soft foam would provide additional insulation and resiliency. the choice is up to the builder, but I heartily recommend it.
Closed cell spray foam has a better R value per inch than the foam he actually used.
The spray foam would have also acted as a glue to hold everything in place, making it nice and snug
Came here to say just this. I think it would be a great addition for both reasons. More insulation/less air and air infiltration and should as you point out, really lock it in.
If this is for a long weekend you should factor in the use of dry ice. Maybe a thin, hole'y box to put the dry ice in or... use the bottom of the storage side somehow to store the dry ice so it vents the cold from the dry ice to the normal ice and keeps the normal ice from melting.
I remember a hundred years ago when I used to go camping all the time, we had two boxes like this. One was set up as a prep and cook, and the other was set for a sink.
This would have been a great third box given that coolers can set you back a grand these days, luckily they used to not cost more than a hundred bucks for the best ones.
I like that idea! Maybe I can get myself like a small aluminum box to keep dry ice in at the bottom of the cooler!
I have to wonder if a dry ice chamber on the top of the cooler would be better? Cold air sinks, so maybe bagged (wet) ice on the bottom and dry ice on to top to better cool everything?
@@SkillTree you want to put ice/dry ice on top of the food you want to keep cool
@@dynamystic3050 the problem with that is you have to move it every time you want to get something out. In a well sealed small volume container the advantage is negligible.
How did the water removal work out? Was it cumbersome? Would you consider adding a tap? Also, I’d be interested in seeing an aesthetic but useable dolly to help maneuver these larger pieces.
I was wondering the same thing. With the current setup to drain the water you would have to scoop it out and air dry or tip the whole thing upside down which isn't ideal with ghe pantry section.
Was just thinking a tap would be necessary. Dumping water out of that thing would be a pain
That was *exactly* my first thought too. I live in the Pacific Northwest and mold & mildew hit hard and fast if you're not careful. I didn't see any way to lift the cooler out to drain it, so that's the only modification I'd make -- a drain system. Otherwise, this is spectacular!
That's a really neat idea. It reminds me of the kitchen boxes we had in Scouts. Ours were bigger (and oh boy were they heavier!), and they didn't have a cooler section. But what they did have is legs. Four stool legs strapped to the bottom while carrying it, and you could have it sit a couple feet up off the ground in camp so you don't have to bend down to get at what's inside. It is certainly a great set-up as-is. Very good use of space. Very well done indeed!
The legs are a great idea! My parents made a "camp box" with all the utensils, cookware, etc, and we would just set it on one end of the table to have it at working height. Effective, but it did mean the last two feet of the table wasn't usable for eating.
Chuck box!
Thanks for this comment, Scouter!
I would make a smallish table that the box itself would nest inside of or table on top of the box. The sides of the table and legs would keep the top lid and panty door secure while moving....take table off the top, set table on the ground, set box on top of table. one, it would help get it off the ground directly. and two, if you put drainage in the insulated part, use bottle/pan to collect the water....gravity does the work.
another idea to move the box around....medieval dollie. or just put some medieval type wheels on the thing. think like buckler sized wheels....not the wooden spoked ones. 18 inch 3/4 plywood would do. make the wheels removable, and run the axle through the space between the bottom of the box and the bottom of the cooler. That way you would only have to drag the thing instead of carrying it, especially if it is fully loaded. Work smarter not harder.
Ex chef and current carpenter this is a super awesome build. Also block ice might last longer
Super cool chest! I'd love a vid of you actually cooking with this. Like, add as much food as you'd want, and just do a quick cook-up over a campfire or something. I know you've already done a campfire cooking vid, but it would still be different to see you limited to the tools in the chast, I think.
When I was 9 years old I was in a woodworking club through 4-H. I made a foot stool, as did each of my brothers. My eldest brother obtained something that is next to impossible to find these days, 2"x10" knot free boards. I just grabbed utility grade boards (same dimensions) from the scrap pile.
He sanded his smooth and did clear shellac and his sugar pine foot stool shined bright! I did not want to mess with the brush and all that, so I torch finished mine. Simply ran over the entire exposed surface with a propane torch. It brought out the wood grain into an attractive texture.
That was 49 years ago, I still use that stool.
I can see this is another project of yours I will be adapting...
I've also seen a tutorial where someone took on of the normal chap coolers that are basically just two walls of plastic with an air gap cut holes in them filled the internal space with gap filler spray insulation then patched the holes with plastic, still not as good as like a Yeti but still a big step up from your typical camp cooler.
Yes, I enjoyed that video also
This is exactly what we need for our medival camp! Most events take a whole weekend, so when its really hot outside it would be awesome to have a cooler, even if this only last like 1-2 days. Even then we could simply switch out the Ice if a store is nearby for a quick pick-up. My friend and fellow camp-member just gifted me this awesome big chest for my birthday, which we used as a storage for Drinks like beerbottles and schnaps. But its so big that we could equip half of it with one of these self-build cooler-units! So even if some of the cool air leaks out, maybe this would passive-cool our drinks too!? How awesome would that be!? Ok now I need to go and find some Foam Boards...
I love this. This could also be used for other trades besides cooking. Picturing a traveling blacksmith or cobbler, though with that much weight, probably have to add wheels.
Man, if I could figure out one for blacksmithing😍
@Skill Tree Hahaha! A tiny portable kiln for knifesmithing on the road 😂 Now that I think about it, The Modern Rogue made one out of a paint can and plaster of Paris... might actually be doable 🤔 Might wanna go hardwood on that trunk though
Incredible. I don't know how you don't have at least a million subs by now!
Slow and steady! Thank you for being a part of our growing fam!
Lumber and Building material associate at Home Depot here, I love your channel and just stumbled upon it recently.
A piece of advice I would give would be to have added reflective roll insulation to the inside of the interior walls where you put the supports for the outer walls, this would block a little more radiant heat from warming up the cooler. You also could have placed some extra 1/2 inch insulation board into those cavities as well. Maybe you could have used loose blow-in insulation or fiberglass insulation to pack it loosely, to fill in any voids around the cooler.
Im going on my first larp tomorrow and ive got to say and thanks to you dude! this channel has been a real comfort for me in preparing :)
Congratulations! Enjoy every minute!
You should make a homemade hand truck/dolly or wagon to move it around with. It will help when it’s too heavy to carry, plus it fits in with the whole wandering chef theme. Of you are wondering, who wants to lug around a heavy chest by hand, better to have it on wheels!
Another addition is that wood piece that separates your food from your plates could be a butcher block cutting board (which could also double as a platter or serving tray)
Pro tip for making your cooler stay cool for longer; place a block of dry ice at the bottom, bury it in normal ice. It will take alot longer to melt, and will be MUCH colder. Will explode your drinks though, so be mindful. Love you man, thanks for another neat project!
THIS Royal Ranger Commander is going to propose this idea to our outpost. With some minor mods I bet we can use this on our campouts and Pow Wows. I like your Vids. You have a lot of great ideas.
Awesome! I hope it works well for you!
Make a copper box with pre plumbed for a water spigot, glue the foam to the copper box before construction of the outer chest . If you are worried about copper brass and steel are fine just sure to use only silver solder for the seams not lead (for obvious reasons).
Just wanted to let you know that I am saddlestitching the felt cat ears for my child's Halloween costume while watching this video. Very useful little technique I learned from you! Saved me quite a but of money 😉
Expanding foam between the cooler and the wood would be a lightweight insulator.
9:06 Ha! "Sealing the wool."
10:44 hehe, a "cooler" look! Don't know if it was an on purpose pun, but good one anyway lol
Man.... how did I miss THAT one lol
Tinfoil inner wall and base beneath, spray foam gap between tinfoil and blue insulation.
Cool the cooler with some sacrificial ice for a few hours, empty, then fill with the “working” ice, if some food items are for a few days into the trip, freeze them before loading.
There are ways of making ice last longer before melting, slabbed ice, salt in ice before freezing, distilled water.
With the dark colours used, they are heat magnets, drape with dampened white cotton sheet.
👍 great video 👍
You could use spray foam between the boards and the outside of the cooler wall to add more insulation and lock it in more.
You need 3. A cooler, a dry pantry and a BIG pot for hot water. All of your smaller pots and pans are stored in the big pot. As soon as your fire is ready, the big pot is filled with water and goes on the fire. Because you ALWAYS need hot water.
Cool project. I'm actually kind of impressed by how simple it is to make a cooler.
Cool idea! Make sure you leave it on a table or ground cloth, I'd think the leather will mold if you keep it on the ground.
Good call. I think I will make little feet out of wood blocks or some such
@@SkillTree one of the other comments mentioned some detachable legs - maybe you can make the feet with legs that hinge up to the bottom, so you can set it on the ground or prop it up for easier working height
Something like this with a triple walled tin box with a lacquer inner coating in place of the cooler (a wall around the actual storage, a wall outside that to make a cavity for putting ice into, and a third cavity between that and the outer wall for putting insulation (maybe loose wool or layers of felt?) inside of; the lacquer coating should thoroughly waterproof the interior) could work really well as a travel cook’s chest that lives on the party’s wagon.
This combined with the coffee alchemy case you have breakfast sorted
I have a D&D character, a kenku trickster cleric of Anoia, the Goddess of Stuck Drawers. They would have one of these, but with more gelatin molds. Everything they make is those weird aspic meals from the 50s :D
De chelonian mobile... Greetings fellow Pratcheteer..😊
Seems like a homemade Wannigan. The duct tape will actually take away some of the R value because it is made with aluminum to conduct heat better for duct work. Great Piece, love the leatherwork.
Your set for your next LAP and will be the envy of all the under prepared adventures.😉
Wow... 5 days of ice, using less than 30 bucks of material is impressive !
Here are a few ideas I have to improve insulation :
- Space blanket, they are really good at reflecting heat. I'd wrap the plastic container with it.
- A layer of spray on insulation, like cork spray. To make continuous layers that would work well against thermal bridges.
- Sealing ! Tape is not enough to stop air from going through the foam boards. I'd look for a good candidat at that. Heat seal ? Cork spray ? I don't really know
- Removing the plastic container during construction. Gluing it was good for the first steps of construction, but it got in the way when you add to have a really straight edge on top for the lid to be as close as possible of the rest of the insulation.
- Heat cutting : Heat cutters are really, really, really good when you work with foam !
- A way to apply pressure between the lid with the body of the cooler, like in a store bought one. That might be hard to do, because it would require the cooler to have a rigid casing and that's... A lot more work.
Also... That might be... Tricky, buuuuut... Expanding foam ? R-Value is great, no thermal bridge, no cutting and jointing... Might end in catastrophic failure, but I guess that might work !
For my reenactment furniture, instead of polyurethane, I use a formula I got from a master woodworker. It worker really well, and can quickly be reapplied as needed for heavy used items. It's 2 parts boiled linseed oil, 1 part v m & p naphtha, and 1 part marine spar varnish. It is really good for wooden items like this that get heavy indoor/outdoor use. Also, I need to make this.
You could also use rockwool. The r value is 23 typically and it's moisture resistant while drying quickly. Some paint on fiberglass will allow you to bond it effectively allowing you to shape it into an effective insulating shell. Especially if you affix it to the plastic. Keep the lip and just cut out the little pastic supporting tabs. You can tuck it under the lip and seal it with mod podge (food safe glue).
Food for thought
As a formerly avid medievalist and chronic DIY'er, and looking at the price of current GOOD coolers, which start at around $300 for a small one, which typically rhymes with Betty or Market, this is an absolutely FANTASTIC idea, and I am looking to undertake this same project in the VERY near future.
I worked at a blood bank for a fe years. We shipped blood all over the USA including Hawaii. As well as Puerto Rico. We used these wax sealed cardboard boxes with inch thick foam insulation two short ones for the ends and four long ones for the sides and bottom and top. We used those square blue plastic ice packs filled with water. Once they were frozen they lasted about 3 days. If you can find them the Styrofoam boxes you can get medical supplies in work really good for coolers too and it already has a nice lid and four sides.
I love how the doorside lifting handle also works as a doorhandle :D
You can make the whole chest smaller with the same amount of storage by using sawdust and ice IN the plastic container. No need for the foam board. Up until 1927(when the first electronic fridge came out), Sawdust was packed around ice blocks in a box and transported by train across country, or in ships across oceans. It was also used in icehouses for keeping ice all summer long.
Next time instead of xps foam try thermal bubble wrap you can get r8 at only 1/4" think. I like the steamer trunk look the leather on there is so cool. Great job
Bubble wrap's not as good. Use the foam.
My mom had something like this as a picnic box. No cooler, but boy could she cook with everything in the box.
Alternate trunk carrying method: Requires two people. Free hanging leather straps across the top, back, underside, and front, these can slide off after carrying, but are a close-fit. Secondary straps attached to the top of those free hanging straps. Secondary straps loop and connect closely at the free hanging straps, and the other end create two loops sizing several inch diameter. Slide your walking stick through the loops. One person in front, one at the back, carrying on the shoulder to evenly distribute the weight of the trunk! Alternate: create buckled straps for ease of use.
... That was a really long explanation to say 'make some close fitting straps, make some free hanging straps, hang a walking stick between them'. lol 💜
Some kind of thermal reflecting layer on top of it would probably bring that up to a full week. Looks amazing and I bet you're excited to bring that for the next event.
Actually, putting a layer of thermal reflec (roofing reflec with the thin foam backing) UNDER the chest helps a lot - the ground for most of the year is warmer than the night time air temperature, in some places it may be warmer than the day temperature heading into winter.
@@brucelee3388 By on top I was referring to as a layer around the foam layering. Not literally only the top. That said, that info is going to be SUPER helpful, thanks!
loved this project. Will be making for my Scouts. Love your channel. Keep it up.
something to consider - adding wheels, maybe a removeable rimmed, and wheeled platform , you could make the wheels small cartwheels and keep the handle set up as is for pulling the chest.
My dude is getting buck wild with these designs man! Talk about level up, you've come so far! Love the work, keep making, keep adventuring!
Arca refrigderium sounds pretty cool it’s Latin for box of cooling
Damn that's cool! Sounds like a spell.
Even better vagus amet which is wandering fridge
This project. Is. EPIC!
The only thing I’d have tried to add would be a drain tube from the cooler for all that water to run out of as the ice melts. That way your food isn’t swimming, and also your kit gets lighter as the days go on!
Oh this is perfect, because ive been making copper and steel kitchen fare. Pots, pans, ladles. Silverware from actual silver...
Back in the way back day's, people used tin boxes set in a wood box. It would create frost on the sides of placed in a spring (i.e. a spring box) but you could use ice on the inside and get the same effect.
Well that blows away the chuck wagon box I build all those years ago in Boy Scouts. A great mix of style & function. Great job.
If you also freeze the food you are bringing, you cut down on the amount of ice you need and you can plan your meals around what will thaw when.
Also the walls of the chest look like you could add a little more insulation there too if you were so inclined.
"cooler look" 😎 👌 ♥️ 10:46
I need a cooler, so this has given me many ideas. Perhaps a metal tub and some way to cover or encase the foam could be used so that you don’t open it up and see plastic and styrofoam. This was an excellent build. You’ve given us lots of inspiration. The pantry on the end, the storage on top, all the straps and bumpers…so nice!
As someone who has done many SCA and ren faire events, you can buy a block of dry ice to double your cooler time limit. Also, if I had any notes, it would be to add a spigot on the side to help with draining the water without trashing the chest. All in all, looks fantastic!
Another way to sustain the ice is a good slab of dry ice in the bottom. Place the cube water ice on top, and it'll keep for far longer. Might turn the cooler into an ice cream freezer
Twas thinking, for long treks to a site, perhaps making a sort of simplish foldup or take apart cart. Which can hold the cooler, camping setup! Is this idea practical or to much weight!!!
Great project! You should look at old Boy Scout patrol boxes or field kitchens. A removable tray on top, and a cutting board for a work surface would be a great addition. I love your cooler!
You can use dry ice and the bottom of a another storage tub as a barrier to make it last even longer and you’ll get that cool smoky effect like the box is enchanted
Between the cooler tub and first layer of insulation, Reflectix cut to fit and sealed with foil tape to radiate the cold back into the tub, as well as a sheet of the Reflectix on the bottom face of the first layer of lid foam. Instead of bags of ice, use some sealable tubs with salt water in them. A solid block of ice has less surface area for melting than does cubes. The salt water requires a lower temperature point to freeze and will keep the cooler even colder throughout. And being sealed up, clean-up is just some paper towel when done. Instead of the Luan, get some (same thickness) plastic cutting board, now you have food prep surface also.
only thing I would add is some sort of drain port, or to keep your ice in bags
I am a foodie in the woods. I have tons of kitchen gear and love to cook while out camping. This is a great idea.
I love this Chef Box, as a once avid camper this would have been the ultimate camping add on for sure, along with a 2nd folding up vanity made into a box stand and double up as a dry food storage area would be great as it would lift the box off the ground allowing it to stay away from the heat transference of the earth, but will bring the cooler up-to a working a good working hight.
I liked the idea someone had of making the end door to swing up as an extended workbench. Using Dry-ice would be great but this is something that is not ready available here in Australia, even our frozen goods are packed with jell packs.
Here in Australia in the Gardning section there are these crystals that you can buy which absorbs water for the plants to use during the dryer days, if you filled a bucket with water and add the crystals to the water once they have absorbed the water you can bag them into the containers used for leftover meals to go into the freezer, they would be a great alternative as they are reusable and you can place your frozen food in between them that way the food for your day 5 will still be as cold almost as when you placed it into the freezer box. There are plastic food boxes about the size of the freezer box made and they are about 1.5 to 2 inches deep so they would make great freezer blocks. Done right you could have one between every 2nd days worth of frozen or cold food. I have made a few of my own freezer blocks as it was cheaper than buying the big freezer blocks lasted for years and once we stopped going camping I just dug them into the veggie boxes for my veggies to use.
There's actually a magic item in D&D that's basically a cooler, it's called the Chest of Preserving, and all it does is prevent the food inside it from spoiling. I imagine that some adventurers would upgrade one of those into this, as this seems like a logical evolution.
You can also keep the bags of ice in the bags or double bag them in hopes that you don't have to dump the water out as often and hopefully it will keep the ice frozen longer. Just a thought. I love the chest. Very cool piece of kit. 😁👍
I need this in my life!!! 😁 So glad you make these videos they give me such inspiration to go steal my dad's shop for a weekend 😁
If you do something like this again use actual duct tape for AC units. The tape is designed for insulation and sealing the seams of your ductwork on a heating and cooling system. You can pick it up at any big box store. I love your videos. Suggestion to build bone gauntlet and shin guards
Your concept of making a walking cook chest is so Great . The finished insides with everything in straps and the total look was simply fantastic. Love the wooden utensils and platters and bowls . Beautiful.
Dry ice slabs my friend . Great build . Awesome
Dude if i ever get into larp stuff I'm the future, i need to really remember this. This is a badass build!
The large size and weight of the chest was probably why early pioneers mostly dried,smoked, and salt perserved their food instead of freezing dispite easy access to ice in Northern climates.
Ideas: making folding legs so its up off the ground during use.
A port to drain the liquid.
A bar to keep it open on windy days.
These are just off the top of my head.
Love. Love. Love this build.
Your projects always get the creative juices flowing.
Grab your ketchup and crunch away my friends.
You, sir, have given me an excellent idea for a D&D character, and I thank you from the depths of my heart for that.
This is old on this video by now, but I do think a cool project to spring up from this would be the Traveling Tavern Crate. Combining some of the aesthetics from this, using some old style glass bottles, Plus maybe building a false barrel facade and having a tap from one of those pressurized growlers coming out the side of it. I know you said you can't do gluten so that rules out most beers, but hard ciders were a very common thing in those style taverns.
I cannot tell you how appreciative I am of you not including the sound of you cutting foam. I’m not even a fourth of the way in and I just had to go ahead and say that.
One possibility to increase the insulation might be to use spray foam to fill the void between the cooler and the wood frame.
Also, this thing looks absolutely dope! Amazing job!
You could use expending foam in between the cooler and the chest to help hold it in place and add a little bit more insulation
I cannot like this video enough. It’s absolutely amazing… I’m subscribed to A LOT of channels on UA-cam and yours is in my top 3 favorites!!! Thank you SO MUCH for everything that you do!!
THANK YOU! I have been needing a cooler for my LARP events. Was just going to make a travel chest thing for it to avoid full immersion breaking, but this is so much more badass.
I could see adding a way to have a drain using a drinking container of some sort. Or a way to remove the box itself. Some ways to expand. Cool box
Oh, another thing. There's a channel on UA-cam called Epic Upcycling. He does this trick with staining that looks just amazing. He does it with most of his projects, but he also has a video dedicated to this technique. I highly suggest you mimic it. Looks fantastic.
That cooler is actually pretty good. High end coolers only keep food cold for 5-7 days. Cheaper coolers keep food cold for 2-3 days.
I was wondering how to make a cooler. Now thanks to your skills and resourcefulness I know how to build one. Thank you 🙏
As others have said - for ice, fill some food grade plastic bottles with water ( large soda/pop bottles are effectively free) about 3/4 full with water and freeze in your freezer (deep freeze/chest freezer if you have access to one, they are a few degrees colder than the fridge freezer) and use those instead of 'party ice' from a store. You can drink the water from the bottle as it melts. I have made more than a couple of dozen reenactor grade chests over the years - you can make the frame first and fasten (nail, glue, screw) panels -inside- the frame, you can use 1/4"(6mm) and 1/2"(12mm) ply for the panels, just cut it so the grain goes vertically for a frame chest. Make the frame so it has very short legs - about 2"(50mm) - and you probably shouldn't have fixed rope handles on a chest with legs though - there are illuminations in manuscripts from the 1300's (Matthew Paris) showing looters carrying similar chests with a large loop of rope around the chest at each end just inside the legs. You can use 'loose pin' hinges inside the frame to hold the frame together, replace the loose pins with ones made from thick coat hanger wire (or fencing wire) and when the event is over you can pull the chest apart without tools and pack it under all your gear (in bags) in the boot or back seat of a small car. For the origin of this idea look at the 'House Greydragon' web site, developed by the late Master Terfan.
The BSA has something similar. When we camp for the weekend we use what we call a "chuck" box. No built in cooler but this has given me ideas.
I've been binging these ever since my first episode, the thieves' gauntlets. Love the energy and the skill in these. Prime material, sir. Job well done. Another subscriber to you lists.
Wow this is great 👍, i agree with other comments that larger packs of frozen ice would probably last longer. But the functionality of this project is amazing! I bet i could make an amazing meal with this set up
You can freeze bags or jugs of water ahead of time and it will reduce the amount of water you have to drain. In addition to taking longer to thaw it also gives you drinkable water as the ice thaws. This will also save money on buying as many bags of ice and your water/ice containers are reusable.
I would probably add a Mylar space blanket or two to the cooler. If you could remove the plastic inner tote, I would put a Mylar layer between it and the foam. Add another (shiny side out) on the outside of the foam box. It would add essentially no weight, no bulk, and miniscule cost (you can pick up one for $1.50 US at Wal-Mart (early 2023). You could probably also get the same effect with a layer of aluminum foil.
I am a chef as well and if I go camping this will be a thing that I would love to have that way it saves room in my car so I can load more things in.
I am sorry. I am going to have to rip this off and make my own version because this is a level of Nerd-Cool-Greatness that must be achieved. It calls to me. I was able to resist until you had to go out and put in the vials of spices and the Tankard and everything else and now I must build it.