Spot on directions. Nice job. I have and do install tons of metal roofs. The biggest things I do along with these is to lath the roof, not only to level but to make sure I know what i am screwing into. If you screw into a place where two pieces of plywood are connecting, you create a whole in your panel that you have to caulk. Lots of shortcuts can and are taken with roofs. Knowing what you are doing and why you are doing it is the biggest thing in my opinion.
I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .
Standing seam good system .I always ad more clips at bottom and top .you should be ok with that .to figure you're pans to see were you and up width of pan with eighth of inch grow rate
Au Crunk he’s obviously a non-union roofer. No red-tape, coffee breaks, or drinking at lunch. Just a quick, helpful video that didn’t go 500% over budget. 🤣
me too in my country we used corrugated galvanized iron roofing and the fastener has to be in the ribs or top of the curve portion not on the flat to prevent from leaking so easy. When install the Galvanized roofing correctly your roof stay longer even your grand children can benefit it
Great points. Reducing the number of penetrations in your roof is always a good idea. One of the points I was trying to make in this video was that spending a bit more time on the details will save you big trouble in the long run.
A common question about this type of panel. If you refer to the manufacturer's instructions on installation, you will see that they specifically indicate fastening in the flat of the pan. The ribs on this type of panel are curved on top and do not allow for a good seal of the washer. Screwing through the rib often causes the panel to buckle slightly, creating an unsightly 'fishmouth' effect along the bottom edge.
I caught one mistake in the video, make sure to pre drill your screw holes reason for that is when you run your screw through with out it being pre drilled it makes the metal around it sharp and will tear your washer on the screw and makes it look neater because all the screws are perfectly even
Notes for me 1. Lapping panel. Fat lip diwn first, cover with short lio showing when done 2 do not over tighten screw... Place in flat place Ensure nut driver works well Caulk is secondary waterproofing Place caulk underneath shielded from sun Over hang only up to 2" Pvc pipe flashing Many screws Sealant under base of boot
I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.
I put a steel roof on my house 13 years ago & followed the advice I listed previously. You are right, it's important to take the time to make sure the penetrations are sealed well.
I live in Monroe County in Florida we have hurricane standards we screw four inches up from the bottom drip edge and then every 8 inch accordingly on the female and the male ribs. As well as in the middle of the panel this guarantees secure system, that has been proven on many occasions to withstand category 4 hurricanes. These standards across Monroe County are the strongest and most coherent in the country being that we do have hurricanes these systems wouldn't work unless there's at least a slope of 3 degrees pitch as so water won't pool from standing water. The Fasteners were not designed to be submerged under water. Anything with less than a 3 degree pitch involves a totally different other system and Hardware.
Hey dude the screws go in the high ribs. (Screws 2-2.5 “ long with neoprene washers) .This also allows for slight movement from expansion and contraction on cloudy days. You will hear pinging on cloudy days. I have laid hundreds or tons of steel over 40 years(leadhead nails long ago).they are all still ok.
So I just looked at my roof and the screws are on the flats . Then I looked it up and most sites say put the screws on the flats . But a whole lot of sights say as the washers age and the roof moves having the washers on the high ribs will prevent leaks and that's kind of what a roof is for !
I was taught to put the screws in the top of the ridge, and use the backers that fill the gaps of the ridges. However, the backers fit for a while, but get off due to not being as accurate as the panels are. A pure waste of time! With freezing and thawing, hot and cold the metal eventually gave way and the panels did not hold. Now, I've seen screws in valleys before, and I've put some in valleys when necessary, along with silicone caulk. If I recall he said you could put sealant on before you put the screw in. This is what I will be doing with the small roof job I'm doing. Pre-drilling holes is a great way to keep all screw holes evenly spaced (I'm a fanatic about screw/nail lines and spacing). I believe when installed properly, the valley will actually be better in the long run. To each his own! I know that by putting a bead of silicone caulk between the top and bottom ridge, and under each screw hole will make a huge difference in how long the roof will last.
Many houses have far more roof penetrations than are needed. Connect plumbing vents together in the attic to reduce the number of VTRs to the minimum. Size them according to code & install wall clean-outs if required. The penetrations that remain should be moved so they come thru the panels in the best places. Wide penetrations should come thru the middle of a panel ridge so water can flow by in a valley on either side. Narrow penetrations should be centered in a valley.
So much discussion on where to put the screws. You have two types of screw, you have roof to roof deck screws (these are fairly long), and you have stitching screws (short and thicker). Both have a rubber gasket or seal. The long screws go on the flat part of the roof. This makes for a solid connection. If the long screws are used on the top of the rib, over time they work thier way loose. The short screws are used to hold the panels together and do not go through the roof deck. Hope this helps.
2:26 you were talking about using the screws the correct way if you look behind the man towards the upper left you can see the metal has a few dents in it that's what happens when youve tightened the screws down too much
i was a roofer for about 10 yrs. i put the screws through the ribs. i also installed foam backer or other insulation barriers. i used 2 1/4" metal screws with a poly washer. no leaks. and i know many of these people that I've roofed for. no leaks. he is right about the silicone and plenty of screws for flashing. still more than i use. those roofs i did are around 17-19 yrs old now.
"Boots" or decktites as we call them here are no longer used like this. Flat plate is first installed over the penetration extending sideways to cover the nearest corrugations and extending up underneath the ridge. The " boot" is only then installed to a flat surface. Fitting like this ,especially over corrugations , and sometimes causing a dam will eventually cause a leak.
Jez Jukes came to the comments to find this. Good Commercial standing seam roof installation instructions expressly prohibit boots over a seam like that.
@@Harmon1ca yep WITHOUT the flat plate, just came across this , if you use anything other than a boot/decktite do it. Boot to roof straight is a massive no no.
@The Sentry just pre measure for pulling, line up your sheets you can drill 10 sheets fairly easy. And all will be the same. You must adjust for overhang but it is fast and your people won't miss a screw.
Different panels require different methods to screw off American standard requires you to screw in the flat . I have screwed on the rib before on a pole barn in on the inside when you look through if you screw it on the high rib you can see daylight to me that is a leak you do what the manufacturer says to do which is screw on the flat I know it doesn't seem like the right thing to do but it is in in the north country I live in Maine if you install a metal roof you must take the gutters off because when the snow slides off it will tear the gutters write off every time
Proceeds to over screw the screws (in the pan mind you). 3:10 In cyclonic areas in Australia it's not to code to screw in the pan. Put in decent 2-1/2 screws on each rib with a cyclone washer. Also, biggest mistake I see is not kicking the sheet along to make sure that over sheet rib edge is snug and touching the under rib. Don't want it gapping. If done properly, you will hardly see where the sheets lap.
I have roofs on 20 years screws in the flats and no leaks.It seems obvious to me that expansion and contraction are absorbed by the ribs. A screw in the rib interferes.This is not 5 v tin.
I can see how putting the screw on the flat would hold the gasket more flat and tight. But I would see it leaking easier eventually. Atleast putting on the ridge water would stand better chance of rolling down the ridge and onto the flat!!!! I was always taught on high rib!!!!
BINGO!!!!! I live in Florida and they NEVER try to put the screws on the ribs. That shit will blow off. Doing it in the flats won't make them leak. INSTALLING THE SCREWS INCORRECTLY WILL MAKE THEM LEAK. My roof is rated at 150 MPH.
i always carry a pair of tweezers to pick out little chunks of steel that gets stuck to magnet in the 1/4 nut setter, nothing worse than a zip-it screw that keeps coming out of the nut setter when your trying to hang on to the work and hold on to a ladder and getting tired.
tell me what you do about the screws backing out because of heat in the tin roof. Expansion and contraction. Day in and day out of the roof doing this will back the screws out. I have to be on my roof twice a year tighten screws or replacing screws with bigger one. I want a roof that use a clip in a channel so your roof can move without loosen the screws.
You can settle an argument for me between my friend and myself, He is building a porch added on to his shop I told him he does not need to put OSB under the tin roof just strapping he said he needs to put the boys be so it will have more places to screw. Should he waste the money to put the OSB under the metal siding or just use strapping across the rafters one by fours
I would definitely NOT use OSB. With no decking, I like to use 2x4's placed 2 feet on center for the added strength, though 1x4s might work on 16" centers. OSB is a bad choice because the screws will not hold over time and will back out badly and leak after just a few years. If you want to use solid decking, ½" CDX plywood is a good choice.
When I installed steel roofing a few yrs ago, we were always told to install the screws through the high rib and never on the lower flat surface. Why are your screws installed in the lower flat surface?
I would not use any type of metal roof system where I must put screws through the metal. It is bound to leak as washers dry out and from the normal expansion and contraction of the metal.
I do metal roofs over existing shingles and tar paper but I never fasten the sheeting to the wood I put metal runners to fasten the panels, because the wood expands and retracts and after a couple of yrs. the screws tend to loosen up I have seen it
@@photofinish8607 This is common down here in the South. You can still Inspect what you need to BEFORE you lay out your 1 X 4's etc.... This CAN be done, but of course it's recommended to tear off shingles... Don't think HACK is acceptable-- You should apologize to the man....... WOOP WOOP
@therockkkkher I prefer screws.. Deck screws... 3"-4" depending on what ya have there... I DO NOT RECCOMEND NAILS... screws, to me, is the way to go....!!
Used a fiberglass ridge cap on a galvanized metal roof. Water coming off the fiberglass onto the metal caused it over time to rust at that point.This started after about 5 years.Now after 24 yrs no rust anywhere except at the peak where the water run/drips onto the galv/metal. My theory is the fiberglass starts to break down over time and etches the metal at that point. Sort of a slow glass beading effect. I don't think a galv/tin ridge cap would have done this. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don in Florida 🍺
Screws on top of the ridges. Not in the channel only screws id put in the channel would be the eaves.at the bottom of the sheet above the soffit. If a screw leaks on top of the ridges not much will come in. But if a screw leaks in the channel. It will leak more. I only put the bottom screws in the channel to keep the wind from lifting the bottom edge.
The mounting methode depends on the surface under the sheets, when screwing metal on metal, always screw in the valley and not in the top. Use selfdrilling rvs screws with epdm rings. The first 2 and last 2 sheets double quantity and also in gutter and in the ridge. And if you want a very good tip from a very experienced company here it is: in the gutter, gentely bend the valleys of the sheets with a locking plier or something (do not damage the coatoing) about 5mm downwards, the water will run to the middle of the valley and the waterdrops will not hang for days under the cuttedsheet. It sounds a bit crazy but the sheet will last longer because of less rust in time on the cutting edge, the coating will not rimple in time.
Lots of arguments about putting screws in flats or ribs. I've installed a lot of metal roofs. NEVER had a leak! If you put a hole in a piece of metal you create a place for it to leak.... I always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart. On perimeter we do put screws in the flats on 8" spacing to hold edges down which keeps wind from getting under the metal. Never had a leaker and never had a roof blow off. Two points I absolutely agree with in this video... pipe flashing technique and lapping edges... long edge on bottom.
Randy Jacks In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and still going strong after paint jobs and inspection ( these were done before us in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the height of the corrugated for free. If you put them in the low spots you do not have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in low spots get in the way of ***serviceability**** and leak when you have to go on the roof years later when you have to go up and do repairs. Keep in mind that you may have to paint it in 40 or so years depending on conditions. ***You will have to reset screws with washers in a **-much much-** shorter period of time before that if you are in the low spots, but it is of little concern if on the high spots.**** I've seen roofs from 1955 that have bare nails on the high spots that are backing out and weep a bit and I had to go up and replace them with screws but the southern pine wood is still good underneath. Some even had a layer of felt. This would never have survived with fasteners in the low spots. You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low spots without causing the screws to leak and damage, I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. ****Always strip the asphalt roof!**** before putting on a metal roof. Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or bending the roof. ***The entire idea of a metal roof is to get 3x or 4X times the age of an asphalt roof. Yes, that's right, no reason you cannot get 60+ years out of a steel roof with little or no maintenance.****Screws in the low spots assure this will not happen.
+eddie telleed Gentlemen, you may have saved me a world of heartache down the road, thank you. After watching this video I was going to screw in the low place vs. the seams. Randy I'm confused about what you said about when you always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart, if the panels are 3' wide wouldn't the screws be 3' apart across the row of the roof? I think I misunderstood what you meant. Anyway point is I'm going to fasten on the ribs and at the seems per the reasons you guys gave, thanks again for the helpful advice.
How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'? got a video on that?
If the last panel is going to be awkwardly skinny, you should adjust the first panel over some so that the last panel will be larger. You'll need to trim some off the first panel to make it more narrow and won't be able to start with the clean factory edge if you're using a drip edge trim.
Hmm. Why does the small overlap the big? So it sits flatter? It seems to not let water under neath and get trapped and possibly freeze when it sheds away with the big over the small. I already layed a few down the opposite way, so ill see
To the people talking about the location of screws. It is a give and take subject. If they are placed in the flat of the panel there is more screw penetrating the wood and is giving a better hold to wind yet it is more vulnerable to leak, and when the rubber washer extends its life span it will cause leaks. If the screw is placed in the high (high rib) it has less threads in the wood and isn’t going to be as strong but is less vulnerable to leak and will stay dry longer . Many Barnes and other structures are 50+ years old nd are still dry. Yet there is less screw penetrating making the roof more vulnerable to wind. I personally install these roofs in my own way that I feel is best( my opinion). I place the bottom screws 4 inches up the panel with a inch over hang and place those screws in the flat. The bottom is the area that takes the most wind and is the structures perimeter. Also if the washer is to fail the water should come out on the drip edge and exit. The in field fasteners are installed in the high rib as they aren’t as vulnerable to wind. This method place seems to be a good wind resistant and also avoids leaks as I’ve seen many roofs ruined due to all the screws in the flats. I’ve also seen roofs blow off from the screws in the high rib. I’ve personally seen the flaws of both installations so I thought to make the best of both and try and avoid any failures. But honestly if you want the best possible metal roof system investing in a double seamed standing seam roof will be the best, or a full clip (100% clip , clips are same length as panel) T panel. But both those systems are more than twice the traditional screw down panels in price. That’s my 2 pennies.
Why not install the screws on the ridges? It seems to me that having them rest on the flat part means that water runoff will cause more hydrostatic pressure there than on the ridge because water will runoff easier from the ridge.
Will be installing my own metal roof in the near future. Is it just me? I thought all new residential roofing uses the (best practice) Screw less method. In that screws are installed on outer ridge edge then the next panel snaps over and locks onto this ridge. Then repeat? Any of you guys have any experience with this?
All I can tell you is that MY metal roof required screws. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your roofing panels and ask their advice. Good luck with your project!
I have a question. I recently saw an issue where pressure treated timbers were used on a carport and one of them had warped badly. It had a plywood deck and this type of metal roofing. The roofing edge had lifted badly at the one rafter timber warping the plywood deck and metal deck. I this case what problems can arise with the metal roofing fasteners? Being that screwed fasteners were used would the heat and cold cycles cause expansion and contraction enough to elongate the fastener holes in the metal roofing panels eventually allowing water to penetrate the metal panels?
We've had 3 metal roof put on garages/camper ports and ALL have condensation build up and dripping. It doesn't matter so much with carports but you always want underlayment protection on a house...ALWAYS
If you use a rubber washer with the screws it shouldn't matter where the screws are put and actually I would think u could get a tighter seal in the flat part that is closest to the wood ur screwing to. U couldn't get the screws tight enough along the ribs to get a proper seal without bending and damaging the rib so it would seem garanteed to leak.
I realize there is disagreement, even among manufacturers, over where to put the screws. I can't understand why it would be better to place them in the flat section. That area is a lower so it is where the majority of water flows. In a heavy rain the high points have water droplets whereas the valley has a constant flow of water. I wish someone could explain why the flat surface is the better choice for screws.
***** Are you putting on a metal roof or a rubber washer roof?, because you have to make up our mind. If you put them in the low spots, that's what you're doing: relying on washers to be your roof and throwing away 30-40% advantage of the metal roof. The washers should be able to fail and the roof should still go 40 years with touching it at all. Back before screws were around, you put nails in the top ribs. You don't even really need washers for a long time if you out them on top of the ribs and have a felt backing on top of quality lumber. Don't believe me? Try putting them in the low spots without washers and see how long your roof lasts.
rubber washers on the flats (valleys) is highly not recomended due the seal not always seatted correctly or age has caused it to rot or crack and have seen a time or two the seal just not there. common sence would tell you that you have less water in the peek than a flood in the valley.
It seems that way, Gene, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
I have repaired so many metal roofs because the screws were put in the channel, where the water flows. The screws should be placed in the "hat" not in the channel. Yes it is more difficult, over torquing will cause the sheets to creep. The washers will last much longer because expansion/contraction is taken up in the hat. IMHO
Well the guy may not be perfect but experience makes the master and even thought i went to design school i realize that the real knowledge is in the experience. Experiencing the weird and forbidden things will give us a better insight
The screws are supposed to be in the flat closet to overlap side according to folks that guarantee it and it works better to make tighter laps n case of hitting a low spot n an untrue roof and actually pulling the overlap up and "fishmouthing" it wich is always welcoming water. Maybe i should do videos.
Like the point about caulking. Most people don't realize just how much a steel roof structure moves as temperatures change. Even more than wood against stucco. Depend on the roof, not caulking.
why would you want the short lip on top.. are you drinking.. the large lip and calk causes water to stay away from the ridge.. what good does the large ridge do AFTER water penetrates the ridge
Sorry johnny llooddte you are wrong about which way to overlap, the short lip was designed, (if the manufacturer has his roll-form machine properly adjusted) to keep water from siphoning over ridge. When you install the wide side as your overlap you create a moisture trap between the two sheets where they meet on the flat, which can lead to rusting. Also there is no need to caulk the seams on a 3/12 pitch and up.
ahaha i am not wrong.. different manufacturers have different warranties and different installation methods for their warranties.. you can say the same thing underneath .. moisture will collect from atmospheric changes in humidity.. either way moisture IS going to collect between the 2 surfaces. on top or on bottom..its impossible not to.. and to say either way wont siphon defies physics of capillary action ahahah.. we use the proper caulk in these connections as required by the manufacturers ... if yours says put the short on top ..go for it.. down here our manufacturers require it otherwise
Mp one feels sticky and quality when you put it on.Imust admit its better than water base but when you see it chalk and fall off in 5 or 6 years Id hope you didn't use it to actually hold out water.The less goop you use,the better.You new construction planners,keep penatrations to aminimum,and low on the roof as these boots will need gooped in 6or 7 years.The best goop at 10 11 bucks isgeocel at ace hardware but no colors,so,if youre trying to fill big gaps to fix anF up,it wont work.It isn't silly cone,but it isclear.
Common Mistake number 6It would probably look better if you made a cone and a wrap for the pipe so you cant see the boot, you also need to add sealant to the top of the boot around the pipe
i've been doing asphalt roofing for a long time, never did metal. crazy how many screws you put in that flashing. I guess that's how it's done though. It looked good.
I just built a shed that I will be receiving a metal roof. I installed solar board panels over the rafters. What would be the recommended underlayment needed before the panels go on?
I am confused some say the big side of the panel goes first overlapped by the small side. Why do we need to do it the other way? What are the possible consequences?
The panels are specifically manufactured to be installed that way. The "fat/big lip" side of the panel has a small groove in it that prevents water from transferring over the lap via capillary action. Also, the extra lip on the fat side can trap debris under it if it is installed on top.
Every sheet metal roof should always have waterproof underlayment for 2 reasons. 1st doesn't matter if screws are on ridge or valley some of them WILL leak 2nd sheetmetal roof always condesate water underneath it from temperature changes and they will drop to insulations if there isn't any underlayment.
Photo Finish oh my god. You and the others shock me. Underlay is important in a shingle roof, let alone a metal roof which; 1- has more temperature change at a faster rate, so more condensation to be had 2)lasts 3x the length of a shingle roof, costs a bunch more as well. But hey why make it watertight??? What?? When water gets under shingles or metal roofs etc, if it then drains off the underlay your ok. When there’s not underlay your wood will be affected. Especially cause everywhere uses plywood not hardwood, which is fine, but for longer lasting roofs hardwood is more recommended for longevity. Plywood, even true ply let alone OSB is still glue based. Moisture releases the glue slowly. Your fasteners then don’t have the hold they did upon install. The longer your roof covering will last, the longer in theory you want the sheathing to last. If you have a metal roof with condensation forming on the backside with no underlay, that’s a recipe for rotten (or minimally expanded boards) which will need to be replaced eventually. Also not gaming proper ventilation throws a big loop in metal roofs. Not tearing the old shingles off and laying metal, eventually the shingle nails can back out from the wood over freeze/that cycles and actually dent the metal outward coming up from the bottom.
In this video, you have a really nice B-vent that I'd like to get for a smoke pipe on a standing seam roof. I've been looking all-over the internet for it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who makes it please and where I might buy one? Thanks in advance.
If you screw into the high points, you end up going through both panels. If you had to move or replace for wind or something, you have an extra hole to consider.
Y do you think the screws are better in the flat and not on the rib I've put probably 100 roofs on and never have a problem ever not even in 5 years water is going to be heavier on the flat and it's a given the rubber will give away
I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’
Roofing companies will uncover these particulars helpful together with the recording looks great you really have a very great offer to roofing companies. I'll recommend your videos
Metal roofing can be very tedious. That's why you should hire experienced roofing companies in CT. Too much sealant or rubber caulk is not the answer to correct and long lasting metal roof panel assemblies. great job by the guy in this video.
putting your screws in the ribbs isent very smart as the washers will fail faster and a hole in the rib is still a hole and the water will still find it.screws need to be sucked down solid and putting them in the rib dosent allow for that.
A total idiot put my metal roof on and he paid to have it redone,not voluntarily though and the second installer put the screws in the raised ribs, never put the screws in the ribs.In the end I had the metal striped off and put asphalt shingles on.Metal is good if installed the right way.
I have honestly never seen screws through the flat part it is usually on the rib except for steel girt strapping where the screws are usually placed on the flat but those low slope commercial steel buildings are garbage and always leak. Is there a problem with putting screws through the rib as I honestly have never had an issue with installing them this way
You still answering questions if so...I am installing a metal roof on a metal shop and I am having to cut the high rib off at 1 end so the trim will cover the sheet metal. What do I do to assure it doesn't leak since the high rib is being removed?
I used osb as my sheathing and now, after 18 years, I have many loose screws that I can't tighten down because the osb will not hold them. That is where I get leaks. I have tried spaying the holes with flex seal and replacing the screw. So far no leaks.
How do the panels get screwed down in the purlins if you are only connecting them in the rib? It's a combination of both just like your wall panel installation
I agree to the fact that the rib will never carry more water than the flat/lower section of the panel due to the fact that the rib aren't flat/wide enough to carry the amount of water that the flat section will, therefore not being able to leak as much as a screw drilled in the flat section of the panel. Not to mention the fact that if by tightening the screw too much in the flat section, will leave an indention in the panel, leaving more room for water to enter the home, whereas by putting the screw in the rib will give you a better chance of not having that issue bc of the rib being stronger than the flat section.
Video is clear, nicely done, and explains very well. I wonder how long does the rubber washers on the screws last before they start leaking and need replacing.
+WATCHMAN1611 that's what I always thought but these industry experts say to do it the other way. which is right and who or where is the substantiation?
If you put them on the high part, how would the metal be attached to the purlins unless you used much longer screw, and then the metal wouldn't be mated to the wood.
Even a truck with big Swampers dry rots. I layed down a lot of metal ROOFING, the biggest problem is ice damming. And " A" section wind.. so all the ones I put on the bottom flat or not get a dab of RTV thermostat sealant, Miami-Dade certified
With the chemistry of rubber it will only maintain its true chemical bond for around six years before it starts to degrade, dry out, loose flexibility, & eventually begin to crack 7-10 years later. The weather elements speed that process up.
Nice job I have a question I have a mobile home it has a metal roof I want to install a new metal roof over the original one but I don't want to damage it how do I attach it any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
wow...crazy-ass comments. This guy is right on ALL counts, esp this silly issue of NOT putting screws in ribs. By placing screws in the flat, this is the only way the screws can be made tight, without creating a dimple in which water can lay.As someone else pointed out, read the manufacturer's directions. Roofing with steel, 35 years.
Hi, I bought a brand new home built with wood trusts and metal roofing. The issue is that when the wind hits the roof just right, it sounds like a loud jackhammer on the roof from inside the house. Question: what would correct this horrible noise?
i have done a few metal roofs, and have had to fix some, when installing a new roof i find you really need to sheet the whole roof, just using strapping causes sweating on the underside, even with a membrain or roofing paper, maybe it has to do with the climate i'm in.
@Blue R i recently installed metal roofing on a metal car port, 30ft by 14ft in about 10 hours, the metal sheets were 7ft, it was a kit and it had metal strapping every 2ft, there was no roofing paper, it was just a roof with open walls.
How you can put screw on the flat area, what actually represents water channel?! That's easier way to work for installers, and the way to "screw" the client. SCREWS MUST GO ON THE highest point of the slab, that means on the lips
is there any reason why nailing the low part rather then the top of the ribs is better? i would think nailin along the higher part of the ribs would be better because the rain cant run straight down them like it can with the lower part of the channel as long as you dont suck the screw down to far and crush them
I think that's what he is saying here. This type of metal roof has a flat spot on top of the ridge. You should always screw through the top of the ridge.
I dont know, I sure replace alot of them loose here in Minnesota. I think exposed fastener blows in general and we refuse to put it on. Unless its a building or a shed of course. SSR is all we do. 20 roofs this year and counting
If I am putting on metal roofing above a good shingle roof (to more safely collect rainwater ... DO I NEED PURLINS ... as long as I can hit the trusses?
If you have to leave exposed screws it is siding...barn siding, which works decent for barns sheds and garages. Butbits a shame these have been put on any house...but nice for a barn
Spot on directions. Nice job. I have and do install tons of metal roofs. The biggest things I do along with these is to lath the roof, not only to level but to make sure I know what i am screwing into. If you screw into a place where two pieces of plywood are connecting, you create a whole in your panel that you have to caulk. Lots of shortcuts can and are taken with roofs. Knowing what you are doing and why you are doing it is the biggest thing in my opinion.
I just finished my first metal roof , using 36" standing seam panes of 28 gauge metal , with ribs 9 " apart . The manufacturers recommendation was to put screws in the top of the ridge . They supplied 2" screws with the same color as the roofing. I used 1100 screws to do one side of a 48' by 16' roof. Each panel required 64 screws at 15" spacing. My BIG MISTAKE was in not pre-drilling the holes while the panels were neatly stacked on the ground. This meant I had to mark , hammer punch , and drive in screws while kneeling on the roof with multiple tools in my hand , while trying not to slide. It took almost 1 minute per screw to do this and I had to build a jiffy wooden roof ladder to work on. The final six panels were pre-drilled , and vive la difference. I just walked along the holes and drove in the screws , taking only a few seconds per screw , and the panels were perfectly line up. Pre-drilling several panels at a time while stacked on the ground was easy and very time saving. ALWAYS PRE-DRILL .
Where you from?
@@laserfalcon st. Albans vt.
@@laserfalcon st albans vt
@@tinamcwilliams7029 I am looking at doing my large shop with standing seam metal roofing,. Anything you suggest to avoid?
Standing seam good system .I always ad more clips at bottom and top .you should be ok with that .to figure you're pans to see were you and up width of pan with eighth of inch grow rate
Love that its 5 mistakes in under 5 minutes as opposed to other channels that would run this 20 minutes or more
That's called bringing your footage into an NLE and editing it.
Au Crunk he’s obviously a non-union roofer. No red-tape, coffee breaks, or drinking at lunch. Just a quick, helpful video that didn’t go 500% over budget. 🤣
me too in my country we used corrugated galvanized iron roofing and the fastener has to be in the ribs or top of the curve portion not on the flat to prevent from leaking so easy. When install the Galvanized roofing correctly your roof stay longer even your grand children can benefit it
Great points. Reducing the number of penetrations in your roof is always a good idea. One of the points I was trying to make in this video was that spending a bit more time on the details will save you big trouble in the long run.
Mom said to put the screws on the ridges. All her other building advice is solid, so I'm gonna go with that.
Yep
A common question about this type of panel. If you refer to the manufacturer's instructions on installation, you will see that they specifically indicate fastening in the flat of the pan. The ribs on this type of panel are curved on top and do not allow for a good seal of the washer. Screwing through the rib often causes the panel to buckle slightly, creating an unsightly 'fishmouth' effect along the bottom edge.
I caught one mistake in the video, make sure to pre drill your screw holes reason for that is when you run your screw through with out it being pre drilled it makes the metal around it sharp and will tear your washer on the screw and makes it look neater because all the screws are perfectly even
That's how a homeowner would do it. Contractors...not so much...
Why did one source recommend nail punch holes over drill bit? (i forgot)
Notes for me
1. Lapping panel. Fat lip diwn first, cover with short lio showing when done
2 do not over tighten screw...
Place in flat place
Ensure nut driver works well
Caulk is secondary waterproofing
Place caulk underneath shielded from sun
Over hang only up to 2"
Pvc pipe flashing
Many screws
Sealant under base of boot
I just installed 11, 12' x 3' panels of galvalum on a "lean to" style patio cover. We have since had 2 significant rain storms with NO leaks at all. I installed my screws 100% ONLY on the FLAT portion of the steel. I used Teks #9 1" screws with the rubber washers and they grabbed good and firm into the wood frame with my driver torque set at its lowest torque. The panels I used overlay pretty good and are made of a pretty strong and rigid material "galvalum" I made sure to screw in the flat close to the overlay section, and it is buttoned up pretty snug. I think screwing through the high points through the contours of the ridge seems would be a bad approach. The screws really lock down tight against the smooth metal and pinches the flat steel tight against the wood frame without flexing and distorting the roofing or upsetting the alignment of the panels. No leaks.
John Boykin galvalum is a sheet coating nothing to do with strength moron. Stronger sheets equal heavier gauge metal
I put a steel roof on my house 13 years ago & followed the advice I listed previously. You are right, it's important to take the time to make sure the penetrations are sealed well.
I live in Monroe County in Florida we have hurricane standards we screw four inches up from the bottom drip edge and then every 8 inch accordingly on the female and the male ribs. As well as in the middle of the panel this guarantees secure system, that has been proven on many occasions to withstand category 4 hurricanes. These standards across Monroe County are the strongest and most coherent in the country being that we do have hurricanes these systems wouldn't work unless there's at least a slope of 3 degrees pitch as so water won't pool from standing water. The Fasteners were not designed to be submerged under water. Anything with less than a 3 degree pitch involves a totally different other system and Hardware.
Hey dude the screws go in the high ribs. (Screws 2-2.5 “ long with neoprene washers) .This also allows for slight movement from expansion and contraction on cloudy days. You will hear pinging on cloudy days. I have laid hundreds or tons of steel over 40 years(leadhead nails long ago).they are all still ok.
So I just looked at my roof and the screws are on the flats . Then I looked it up and most sites say put the screws on the flats . But a whole lot of sights say as the washers age and the roof moves having the washers on the high ribs will prevent leaks and that's kind of what a roof is for !
@@johnnussberger8505😢h
I was taught to put the screws in the top of the ridge, and use the backers that fill the gaps of the ridges. However, the backers fit for a while, but get off due to not being as accurate as the panels are. A pure waste of time! With freezing and thawing, hot and cold the metal eventually gave way and the panels did not hold. Now, I've seen screws in valleys before, and I've put some in valleys when necessary, along with silicone caulk. If I recall he said you could put sealant on before you put the screw in. This is what I will be doing with the small roof job I'm doing. Pre-drilling holes is a great way to keep all screw holes evenly spaced (I'm a fanatic about screw/nail lines and spacing). I believe when installed properly, the valley will actually be better in the long run. To each his own! I know that by putting a bead of silicone caulk between the top and bottom ridge, and under each screw hole will make a huge difference in how long the roof will last.
Many houses have far more roof penetrations than are needed. Connect plumbing vents together in the attic to reduce the number of VTRs to the minimum. Size them according to code & install wall clean-outs if required. The penetrations that remain should be moved so they come thru the panels in the best places. Wide penetrations should come thru the middle of a panel ridge so water can flow by in a valley on either side. Narrow penetrations should be centered in a valley.
I myself, had a standing seam roof put on, mainly too avoid the screw penetration issue.
Excellent choice.
So much discussion on where to put the screws. You have two types of screw, you have roof to roof deck screws (these are fairly long), and you have stitching screws (short and thicker). Both have a rubber gasket or seal. The long screws go on the flat part of the roof. This makes for a solid connection. If the long screws are used on the top of the rib, over time they work thier way loose. The short screws are used to hold the panels together and do not go through the roof deck. Hope this helps.
Oops. The stitch screws go on top of the rib, where both panels come together.
Edward Padilla correct, they go into the battons
2:26 you were talking about using the screws the correct way if you look behind the man towards the upper left you can see the metal has a few dents in it that's what happens when youve tightened the screws down too much
i was a roofer for about 10 yrs. i put the screws through the ribs. i also installed foam backer or other insulation barriers. i used 2 1/4" metal screws with a poly washer. no leaks. and i know many of these people that I've roofed for. no leaks. he is right about the silicone and plenty of screws for flashing. still more than i use. those roofs i did are around 17-19 yrs old now.
so you have been doing it wrong for 10 years...good for you...dont give me a quote..EVER
how can a 10 year roofer have roofs good at 17-19 years old ??
@@michaelbeerbados3291 Obviously the roofs outlasted his career
@@michaelbeerbados3291 because he stopped being a roofer 7-9 years ago
Upper left of the image at 2:29 shows material badly distorted by what looks like overtightening.
Agreed, I also question his "Mistake # 1" based on common sense and how water ingress works..
I have a aluminum flat shingle roof, been on the house since 1985
"Boots" or decktites as we call them here are no longer used like this.
Flat plate is first installed over the penetration extending sideways to cover the nearest corrugations and extending up underneath the ridge.
The " boot" is only then installed to a flat surface.
Fitting like this ,especially over corrugations , and sometimes causing a dam will eventually cause a leak.
Jez Jukes came to the comments to find this. Good Commercial standing seam roof installation instructions expressly prohibit boots over a seam like that.
@@Harmon1ca yep WITHOUT the flat plate, just came across this , if you use anything other than a boot/decktite do it. Boot to roof straight is a massive no no.
Predrill panels to keep lines straight
@The Sentry just pre measure for pulling, line up your sheets you can drill 10 sheets fairly easy. And all will be the same. You must adjust for overhang but it is fast and your people won't miss a screw.
It depends on the manufacture on where the screws go. I have seen both ways.
Different panels require different methods to screw off American standard requires you to screw in the flat . I have screwed on the rib before on a pole barn in on the inside when you look through if you screw it on the high rib you can see daylight to me that is a leak you do what the manufacturer says to do which is screw on the flat I know it doesn't seem like the right thing to do but it is in in the north country I live in Maine if you install a metal roof you must take the gutters off because when the snow slides off it will tear the gutters write off every time
jasen daszkiewicz that's what they make ice breaks for is to keep the snow from sliding off and ripping the gutters off of your house
jasen daszkiewicz hang gutters up to a small torpedo level that's sits on roof. They should be about 1 inch down from roof line
Proceeds to over screw the screws (in the pan mind you). 3:10
In cyclonic areas in Australia it's not to code to screw in the pan. Put in decent 2-1/2 screws on each rib with a cyclone washer.
Also, biggest mistake I see is not kicking the sheet along to make sure that over sheet rib edge is snug and touching the under rib. Don't want it gapping. If done properly, you will hardly see where the sheets lap.
I have roofs on 20 years screws in the flats and no leaks.It seems obvious to me that expansion and contraction are absorbed by the ribs. A screw in the rib interferes.This is not 5 v tin.
I can see how putting the screw on the flat would hold the gasket more flat and tight. But I would see it leaking easier eventually. Atleast putting on the ridge water would stand better chance of rolling down the ridge and onto the flat!!!!
I was always taught on high rib!!!!
standing seam roofing panel best there is only at the underneath screws is to be use with clamps at the end off d day no screws will be visserbel
Thank you. The videos explained metal roofing in an easy to understand format.
I install screws in the flats per manufacturer specifications and exceed our local code requirements by following the Miami-Dade screw pattern
BINGO!!!!! I live in Florida and they NEVER try to put the screws on the ribs. That shit will blow off. Doing it in the flats won't make them leak. INSTALLING THE SCREWS INCORRECTLY WILL MAKE THEM LEAK. My roof is rated at 150 MPH.
i always carry a pair of tweezers to pick out little chunks of steel that gets stuck to magnet in the 1/4 nut setter, nothing worse than a zip-it screw that keeps coming out of the nut setter when your trying to hang on to the work and hold on to a ladder and getting tired.
Short and sweet, thorough and informative- Great upload Thank you
tell me what you do about the screws backing out because of heat in the tin roof. Expansion and contraction. Day in and day out of the roof doing this will back the screws out. I have to be on my roof twice a year tighten screws or replacing screws with bigger one. I want a roof that use a clip in a channel so your roof can move without loosen the screws.
You can settle an argument for me between my friend and myself, He is building a porch added on to his shop I told him he does not need to put OSB under the tin roof just strapping he said he needs to put the boys be so it will have more places to screw. Should he waste the money to put the OSB under the metal siding or just use strapping across the rafters one by fours
I would definitely NOT use OSB. With no decking, I like to use 2x4's placed 2 feet on center for the added strength, though 1x4s might work on 16" centers. OSB is a bad choice because the screws will not hold over time and will back out badly and leak after just a few years. If you want to use solid decking, ½" CDX plywood is a good choice.
When I installed steel roofing a few yrs ago, we were always told to install the screws through the high rib and never on the lower flat surface. Why are your screws installed in the lower flat surface?
Never seen them installed on the high point
Different areas of the country have different recommendations. For your area, follow the manufacturers instructions.
I would not use any type of metal roof system where I must put screws through the metal. It is bound to leak as washers dry out and from the normal expansion and contraction of the metal.
Do you ever recommend placing the screws in the rib? Or should I place them in the flat part?
Thanks for clarifying the lip covers.
I do metal roofs over existing shingles and tar paper but I never fasten the sheeting to the wood I put metal runners to fasten the panels, because the wood expands and retracts and after a couple of yrs. the screws tend to loosen up I have seen it
You’re a hack, all current products should be removed.
How do you inspect the plywood or framing?
You should never admit that
You must be somewhere where it’s really hot and dry. ?
@@photofinish8607 This is common down here in the South. You can still Inspect what you need to BEFORE you lay out your 1 X 4's etc.... This CAN be done, but of course it's recommended to tear off shingles... Don't think HACK is acceptable-- You should apologize to the man....... WOOP WOOP
@therockkkkher I prefer screws.. Deck screws... 3"-4" depending on what ya have there... I DO NOT RECCOMEND NAILS... screws, to me, is the way to go....!!
We were told to never put screws anywhere in the flat valleys only to use screws at the tips of the ridges where water will not be
Used a fiberglass ridge cap on a galvanized metal roof. Water coming off the fiberglass onto the metal caused it over time to rust at that point.This started after about 5 years.Now after 24 yrs no rust anywhere except at the peak where the water run/drips onto the galv/metal. My theory is the fiberglass starts to break down over time and etches the metal at that point. Sort of a slow glass beading effect. I don't think a galv/tin ridge cap would have done this. Correct me if I'm wrong. Don in Florida 🍺
Screws on top of the ridges. Not in the channel only screws id put in the channel would be the eaves.at the bottom of the sheet above the soffit. If a screw leaks on top of the ridges not much will come in.
But if a screw leaks in the channel.
It will leak more. I only put the bottom screws in the channel to keep the wind from lifting the bottom edge.
The mounting methode depends on the surface under the sheets, when screwing metal on metal, always screw in the valley and not in the top. Use selfdrilling rvs screws with epdm rings. The first 2 and last 2 sheets double quantity and also in gutter and in the ridge. And if you want a very good tip from a very experienced company here it is: in the gutter, gentely bend the valleys of the sheets with a locking plier or something (do not damage the coatoing) about 5mm downwards, the water will run to the middle of the valley and the waterdrops will not hang for days under the cuttedsheet. It sounds a bit crazy but the sheet will last longer because of less rust in time on the cutting edge, the coating will not rimple in time.
Would be nice to see you go around the heating vent looks very nice.
Lots of arguments about putting screws in flats or ribs. I've installed a lot of metal roofs. NEVER had a leak! If you put a hole in a piece of metal you create a place for it to leak.... I always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart. On perimeter we do put screws in the flats on 8" spacing to hold edges down which keeps wind from getting under the metal. Never had a leaker and never had a roof blow off. Two points I absolutely agree with in this video... pipe flashing technique and lapping edges... long edge on bottom.
Randy Jacks In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof
instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the
advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and
still going strong after paint jobs and inspection ( these were done before us in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just
galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen
trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak
like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put
them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the
height of the corrugated for free. If you put them in the low spots you do not
have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in
low spots get in the way of ***serviceability**** and leak when you have to go
on the roof years later when you have to go up and do repairs. Keep in mind that you may have to paint it in 40 or so years depending on conditions. ***You will have to reset screws with washers in a **-much much-** shorter period of time before that if you are in the low spots, but it is of little concern if on the high spots.**** I've seen roofs from 1955 that have bare nails on the high spots that are backing out and weep a bit and I had to go up and replace them with screws but the southern pine wood is still good underneath. Some even had a layer of felt. This would never have survived with fasteners in the low spots.
You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low
spots without causing the screws to leak and damage,
I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat
surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. ****Always strip the
asphalt roof!**** before putting on a metal roof. Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you
have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can
actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or
bending the roof.
***The entire idea of a metal roof is to get 3x or 4X times the age of an asphalt roof. Yes, that's right, no reason you cannot get 60+ years out of a steel roof with little or no maintenance.****Screws in the low spots assure this will not happen.
Absolutely agree with you. If you don't give a roof a place to leak it can't leak.
Randy Jacks
Simply and well said.
+eddie telleed Gentlemen, you may have saved me a world of heartache down the road, thank you. After watching this video I was going to screw in the low place vs. the seams.
Randy I'm confused about what you said about when you always put screw in ribs 12 to 16 inches on seams and a row across the roof 4 to five feet apart, if the panels are 3' wide wouldn't the screws be 3' apart across the row of the roof? I think I misunderstood what you meant.
Anyway point is I'm going to fasten on the ribs and at the seems per the reasons you guys gave, thanks again for the helpful advice.
+eddie telleed Many times the screws should go in the low flats so the roof can be shoveled or if you need triangular strength.
How do you make up for widths of roofs that don't fall evenly on the panels. e.g. A 12'-3" wide roof and the panels come out to 12'? got a video on that?
If the last panel is going to be awkwardly skinny, you should adjust the first panel over some so that the last panel will be larger. You'll need to trim some off the first panel to make it more narrow and won't be able to start with the clean factory edge if you're using a drip edge trim.
@@RoofingIntelligence thanks
Hmm. Why does the small overlap the big? So it sits flatter? It seems to not let water under neath and get trapped and possibly freeze when it sheds away with the big over the small. I already layed a few down the opposite way, so ill see
To the people talking about the location of screws. It is a give and take subject. If they are placed in the flat of the panel there is more screw penetrating the wood and is giving a better hold to wind yet it is more vulnerable to leak, and when the rubber washer extends its life span it will cause leaks. If the screw is placed in the high (high rib) it has less threads in the wood and isn’t going to be as strong but is less vulnerable to leak and will stay dry longer . Many Barnes and other structures are 50+ years old nd are still dry. Yet there is less screw penetrating making the roof more vulnerable to wind. I personally install these roofs in my own way that I feel is best( my opinion). I place the bottom screws 4 inches up the panel with a inch over hang and place those screws in the flat. The bottom is the area that takes the most wind and is the structures perimeter. Also if the washer is to fail the water should come out on the drip edge and exit. The in field fasteners are installed in the high rib as they aren’t as vulnerable to wind. This method place seems to be a good wind resistant and also avoids leaks as I’ve seen many roofs ruined due to all the screws in the flats. I’ve also seen roofs blow off from the screws in the high rib. I’ve personally seen the flaws of both installations so I thought to make the best of both and try and avoid any failures. But honestly if you want the best possible metal roof system investing in a double seamed standing seam roof will be the best, or a full clip (100% clip , clips are same length as panel) T panel. But both those systems are more than twice the traditional screw down panels in price. That’s my 2 pennies.
Why not install the screws on the ridges? It seems to me that having them rest on the flat part means that water runoff will cause more hydrostatic pressure there than on the ridge because water will runoff easier from the ridge.
Had a metal roof professionally installed this year. They put the screws on the ridges. I share your question/concern.
Will be installing my own metal roof in the near future. Is it just me? I thought all new residential roofing uses the (best practice) Screw less method. In that screws are installed on outer ridge edge then the next panel snaps over and locks onto this ridge. Then repeat? Any of you guys have any experience with this?
All I can tell you is that MY metal roof required screws. I suggest you contact the manufacturer of your roofing panels and ask their advice. Good luck with your project!
I have a question. I recently saw an issue where pressure treated timbers were used on a carport and one of them had warped badly. It had a plywood deck and this type of metal roofing. The roofing edge had lifted badly at the one rafter timber warping the plywood deck and metal deck. I this case what problems can arise with the metal roofing fasteners? Being that screwed fasteners were used would the heat and cold cycles cause expansion and contraction enough to elongate the fastener holes in the metal roofing panels eventually allowing water to penetrate the metal panels?
We've had 3 metal roof put on garages/camper ports and ALL have condensation build up and dripping. It doesn't matter so much with carports but you always want underlayment protection on a house...ALWAYS
If you use a rubber washer with the screws it shouldn't matter where the screws are put and actually I would think u could get a tighter seal in the flat part that is closest to the wood ur screwing to. U couldn't get the screws tight enough along the ribs to get a proper seal without bending and damaging the rib so it would seem garanteed to leak.
I realize there is disagreement, even among manufacturers, over where to put the screws. I can't understand why it would be better to place them in the flat section. That area is a lower so it is where the majority of water flows. In a heavy rain the high points have water droplets whereas the valley has a constant flow of water. I wish someone could explain why the flat surface is the better choice for screws.
Roofing intelligent. Com
***** Are you putting on a metal roof or a rubber washer roof?, because you have to make up our mind. If you put them in the low spots, that's what you're doing: relying on washers to be your roof and throwing away 30-40% advantage of the metal roof. The washers should be able to fail and the roof should still go 40 years with touching it at all. Back before screws were around, you put nails in the top ribs. You don't even really need washers for a long time if you out them on top of the ribs and have a felt backing on top of quality lumber. Don't believe me? Try putting them in the low spots without washers and see how long your roof lasts.
rubber washers on the flats (valleys) is highly not recomended due the seal not always seatted correctly or age has caused it to rot or crack and have seen a time or two the seal just not there. common sence would tell you that you have less water in the peek than a flood in the valley.
It seems that way, Gene, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
Garbage screws through the top rib is the only way to guarantee a leak proof roof.
I have repaired so many metal roofs because the screws were put in the channel, where the water flows. The screws should be placed in the "hat" not in the channel. Yes it is more difficult, over torquing will cause the sheets to creep. The washers will last much longer because expansion/contraction is taken up in the hat. IMHO
Well the guy may not be perfect but experience makes the master and even thought i went to design school i realize that the real knowledge is in the experience. Experiencing the weird and forbidden things will give us a better insight
The screws are supposed to be in the flat closet to overlap side according to folks that guarantee it and it works better to make tighter laps n case of hitting a low spot n an untrue roof and actually pulling the overlap up and "fishmouthing" it wich is always welcoming water. Maybe i should do videos.
Do you have to use firing strips on a new truss roof with 5/8" OSB?
5 Mistakes to avoid when installing metal roofing- very informative video about metal roofs, thank you.
Sometimes when a roof is way out of square snapping a line on ridge will stop saw toothing but panel must be a perfect length
Like the point about caulking. Most people don't realize just how much a steel roof structure moves as temperatures change. Even more than wood against stucco. Depend on the roof, not caulking.
why would you want the short lip on top.. are you drinking.. the large lip and calk causes water to stay away from the ridge.. what good does the large ridge do AFTER water penetrates the ridge
Sorry johnny llooddte you are wrong about which way to overlap, the short lip was designed, (if the manufacturer has his roll-form machine properly adjusted) to keep water from siphoning over ridge. When you install the wide side as your overlap you create a moisture trap between the two sheets where they meet on the flat, which can lead to rusting. Also there is no need to caulk the seams on a 3/12 pitch and up.
ahaha i am not wrong.. different manufacturers have different warranties and different installation methods for their warranties..
you can say the same thing underneath .. moisture will collect from
atmospheric changes in humidity.. either way moisture IS going to collect between the 2 surfaces. on top or on bottom..its impossible not to.. and to say either way wont siphon defies physics of capillary action ahahah..
we use the proper caulk in these connections as required by the manufacturers ...
if yours says put the short on top ..go for it.. down here our manufacturers require it otherwise
ahaha we caulk on verticles ahahhaa
That's bull mp1 is some good caulk they have clear to and you can put it right on top
Mp one feels sticky and quality when you put it on.Imust admit its better than water base but when you see it chalk and fall off in 5 or 6 years Id hope you didn't use it to actually hold out water.The less goop you use,the better.You new construction planners,keep penatrations to aminimum,and low on the roof as these boots will need gooped in 6or 7 years.The best goop at 10 11 bucks isgeocel at ace hardware but no colors,so,if youre trying to fill big gaps to fix anF up,it wont work.It isn't silly cone,but it isclear.
Common Mistake number 6It would probably look better if you made a cone and a wrap for the pipe so you cant see the boot, you also need to add sealant to the top of the boot around the pipe
i've been doing asphalt roofing for a long time, never did metal. crazy how many screws you put in that flashing. I guess that's how it's done though. It looked good.
I just built a shed that I will be receiving a metal roof. I installed solar board panels over the rafters. What would be the recommended underlayment needed before the panels go on?
I am confused some say the big side of the panel goes first overlapped by the small side. Why do we need to do it the other way? What are the possible consequences?
The panels are specifically manufactured to be installed that way. The "fat/big lip" side of the panel has a small groove in it that prevents water from transferring over the lap via capillary action. Also, the extra lip on the fat side can trap debris under it if it is installed on top.
Every sheet metal roof should always have waterproof underlayment for 2 reasons.
1st doesn't matter if screws are on ridge or valley some of them WILL leak
2nd sheetmetal roof always condesate water underneath it from temperature changes and they will drop to insulations if there isn't any underlayment.
Every agricultural building has absolutely no underlay.
Don’t spread lies
I have never seen a metal roof with what you describe
Photo Finish oh my god. You and the others shock me.
Underlay is important in a shingle roof, let alone a metal roof which;
1- has more temperature change at a faster rate, so more condensation to be had
2)lasts 3x the length of a shingle roof, costs a bunch more as well. But hey why make it watertight??? What??
When water gets under shingles or metal roofs etc, if it then drains off the underlay your ok. When there’s not underlay your wood will be affected.
Especially cause everywhere uses plywood not hardwood, which is fine, but for longer lasting roofs hardwood is more recommended for longevity.
Plywood, even true ply let alone OSB is still glue based. Moisture releases the glue slowly. Your fasteners then don’t have the hold they did upon install.
The longer your roof covering will last, the longer in theory you want the sheathing to last.
If you have a metal roof with condensation forming on the backside with no underlay, that’s a recipe for rotten (or minimally expanded boards) which will need to be replaced eventually.
Also not gaming proper ventilation throws a big loop in metal roofs.
Not tearing the old shingles off and laying metal, eventually the shingle nails can back out from the wood over freeze/that cycles and actually dent the metal outward coming up from the bottom.
Mr wize guy. You make good cookies.
@@justinstevenson2061 that's why you use wood slats
In this video, you have a really nice B-vent that I'd like to get for a smoke pipe on a standing seam roof. I've been looking all-over the internet for it, but can't seem to find it. Do you know who makes it please and where I might buy one? Thanks in advance.
If you screw into the high points, you end up going through both panels. If you had to move or replace for wind or something, you have an extra hole to consider.
If you do it right the wind won't pull it off and the odds of a meteor coming from the sky and hitting it are very slim or anything else
in the flats ,that is what the WASHERS are for,they plug the hole.you remove the screw and the washer stays there,proof
@Chas Jostin yeah about 25 years !! buy some new screws every 25 years ya cheap prick !!
Y el machinado en caballete, el usonde sello de poliuretano, la terminacion corta gotera del panel, el tipo de perno hay muchas faltas aun que ver
Y do you think the screws are better in the flat and not on the rib I've put probably 100 roofs on and never have a problem ever not even in 5 years water is going to be heavier on the flat and it's a given the rubber will give away
Losing an inch of screw when its not on the flat. Basically you're making garbage that won't last.
So on a long run on a re roof should you do 2 inches so it doesn’t shrink below a inch?
damn that's a lot of screws
Agreed I use half as many, that's a hurricane zone screw pattern lol
If you install some skylights you may need a pallet of screws.
He could have at least doubled the amount of screws he put in. Plenty of space left.
Lmao
might be a requirement for hospital in hurricane area.
I’m building a lean to roof off the back of the shed. Do I need to place osb underneath my metal roof? I hadn’t planned on it. I was going to secure the metal to the purlins. The roof is only 8’x10’
You can screw directly to purlins. I'd recommend 2x4's if there is no decking.
Roofing companies will uncover these particulars helpful together with the recording looks great you really have a very great offer to roofing companies. I'll recommend your videos
Metal roofing can be very tedious. That's why you should hire experienced roofing companies in CT. Too much sealant or rubber caulk is not the answer to correct and long lasting metal roof panel assemblies. great job by the guy in this video.
***** Agreed...:-)
Thanks for this video,I've actually learned a lot!
putting your screws in the ribbs isent very smart as the washers will fail faster and a hole in the rib is still a hole and the water will still find it.screws need to be sucked down solid and putting them in the rib dosent allow for that.
FINALLY a reasonable answer !!! weeeeee
A total idiot put my metal roof on and he paid to have it redone,not voluntarily though and the second installer put the screws in the raised ribs, never put the screws in the ribs.In the end I had the metal striped off and put asphalt shingles on.Metal is good if installed the right way.
for metal roofing use standing seam only, screws are hidden and covered. the screws he shows never last. cover them with silicone
Standing seam is not structural nor can be reused after removal.
You are an idiot
Photo Finish actually standing seam is a much better roof than a regular screw on roof much less likely to leak and last a whole lot longer
I have honestly never seen screws through the flat part it is usually on the rib except for steel girt strapping where the screws are usually placed on the flat but those low slope commercial steel buildings are garbage and always leak. Is there a problem with putting screws through the rib as I honestly have never had an issue with installing them this way
R panel says you screw in the flat if you go thru the rib it voids the warranty only s screws in the rib are lap screws
You still answering questions if so...I am installing a metal roof on a metal shop and I am having to cut the high rib off at 1 end so the trim will cover the sheet metal. What do I do to assure it doesn't leak since the high rib is being removed?
I used osb as my sheathing and now, after 18 years, I have many loose screws that I can't tighten down because the osb will not hold them. That is where I get leaks. I have tried spaying the holes with flex seal and replacing the screw. So far no leaks.
Anyone that uses sob on a roof should find another trade
Hello there are replacement screws #14 they come in all colors. There a thicker shaft! Good day.
They're called purlins. In many cases they can even REPLACE roof sheathing.
dab your screws with LOCKTITE and replace. should get more years out of the screws but OSB is garbage !!
How do the panels get screwed down in the purlins if you are only connecting them in the rib? It's a combination of both just like your wall panel installation
Wow thats new putting the screw in the bottom of the pan. Never seen it done that way before.
I agree to the fact that the rib will never carry more water than the flat/lower section of the panel due to the fact that the rib aren't flat/wide enough to carry the amount of water that the flat section will, therefore not being able to leak as much as a screw drilled in the flat section of the panel. Not to mention the fact that if by tightening the screw too much in the flat section, will leave an indention in the panel, leaving more room for water to enter the home, whereas by putting the screw in the rib will give you a better chance of not having that issue bc of the rib being stronger than the flat section.
hello can you tell me where could get an information how to install metal roof for a gazebo?? thank you
Video is clear, nicely done, and explains very well. I wonder how long does the rubber washers on the screws last before they start leaking and need replacing.
+WATCHMAN1611 that's what I always thought but these industry experts say to do it the other way. which is right and who or where is the substantiation?
If you put them on the high part, how would the metal be attached to the purlins unless you used much longer screw, and then the metal wouldn't be mated to the wood.
you use 1.5" screws for the high part and 3/4" for the low part where metal covers metal. been learning a lot on the roof of moms home we just bought.
Even a truck with big Swampers dry rots. I layed down a lot of metal ROOFING, the biggest problem is ice damming. And " A" section wind.. so all the ones I put on the bottom flat or not get a dab of RTV thermostat sealant, Miami-Dade certified
With the chemistry of rubber it will only maintain its true chemical bond for around six years before it starts to degrade, dry out, loose flexibility, & eventually begin to crack 7-10 years later. The weather elements speed that process up.
Nice job I have a question I have a mobile home it has a metal roof I want to install a new metal roof over the original one but I don't want to damage it how do I attach it any advice would be greatly appreciated thanks
Don't
Run a ridge board and rafters. You can have whatever pitch you want, and jump your ceiling R up as high as you want.
wow...crazy-ass comments. This guy is right on ALL counts, esp this silly issue of NOT putting screws in ribs. By placing screws in the flat, this is the only way the screws can be made tight, without creating a dimple in which water can lay.As someone else pointed out, read the manufacturer's directions.
Roofing with steel, 35 years.
Hi, I bought a brand new home built with wood trusts and metal roofing. The issue is that when the wind hits the roof just right, it sounds like a loud jackhammer on the roof from inside the house. Question: what would correct this horrible noise?
Sounds like you have a loose piece of sheet metal either due to loose screws or insufficient screws. Probably along the edge of the roof somewhere.
I used a standing seam metal roofing,,,all the screws are hidden except for the boots which had to be surface mounted
i have done a few metal roofs, and have had to fix some, when installing a new roof i find you really need to sheet the whole roof, just using strapping causes sweating on the underside, even with a membrain or roofing paper, maybe it has to do with the climate i'm in.
@Blue R i'm not a crew
@Blue R i recently installed metal roofing on a metal car port, 30ft by 14ft in about 10 hours, the metal sheets were 7ft, it was a kit and it had metal strapping every 2ft, there was no roofing paper, it was just a roof with open walls.
How you can put screw on the flat area, what actually represents water channel?! That's easier way to work for installers, and the way to "screw" the client.
SCREWS MUST GO ON THE highest point of the slab, that means on the lips
Wronggg
SO SO fucking wrong..you will never get a good rubber seal on TOP of a rib...so many idiots here
My Next Roofing job will include curve eaves with the same type of panel your using in this video. Can it be done without kinking the metal ?
is there any reason why nailing the low part rather then the top of the ribs is better? i would think nailin along the higher part of the ribs would be better because the rain cant run straight down them like it can with the lower part of the channel as long as you dont suck the screw down to far and crush them
I think that's what he is saying here. This type of metal roof has a flat spot on top of the ridge. You should always screw through the top of the ridge.
I dont know, I sure replace alot of them loose here in Minnesota. I think exposed fastener blows in general and we refuse to put it on. Unless its a building or a shed of course. SSR is all we do. 20 roofs this year and counting
If I am putting on metal roofing above a good shingle roof (to more safely collect rainwater ... DO I NEED PURLINS ... as long as I can hit the trusses?
If you have to leave exposed screws it is siding...barn siding, which works decent for barns sheds and garages. Butbits a shame these have been put on any house...but nice for a barn