R32 Skyline GTR Fuel Pump Rewire | How to
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- Опубліковано 10 вер 2024
- Sup guys, in this video I show how to upgrade the wiring for the fuel pump in a R32 Skyline GTR. Links to stuff I used for this project are below! Fuel Pump Rewire Kit - amzn.to/2dmJ6sL
Heat Shrink Wire Connectors - amzn.to/2dmDqQo
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Very nice dude, good job!
What guage wire from battery
If I remember right, it was 10 GA wire
Cool video bro, I need to find some time and do mine!
Thank you man. Yeah time is always the thing I need more of!
You seem to be handling your time better than me! :) This baby stuff is hard work :( P.S. saw my FD on skype vid for the first time an hour ago, engine bay looks brand new and almost stock with the exception of a blitz dumpvalve
Yeah after 3 babies, you learn to budget time pretty well haha. Nice man..I bet you're excited to get it and start that new project!
Goodness me... Now I'm impressed with your time management! I just want to clean up the RX7 for now and "finish" the GTR :)
Hey man, love your videos and I’m a huge fan. I have done a complete rewire the exact way you’ve done it although I have left the brown/white original ground wire cut off and ran an entirely new ground to the same position you ran yours. My question to you is... why does the pump still modulate during prime etc? My understanding is the original high/low pump setting is modulated by the original ground wire which is switched from a resisted ground to a non-resisted ground. If that’s true, the way we’ve wired it should run the fuel pump constantly instead of having any modulation. Where am I going wrong in my theory?
Hey man, first...thank you! Second...to be completely honest, I don't know how the heck Nissan decided to wire up their fuel system...but it's crazy and more complicated than it needs to be. I spliced into the wire, and from my understanding that "grounds" out the modulation and just always gives it a 12v signal. But, hey I'm not an electrical engineer lol
Nice nice, but bro please end all vids with audio of GTR exhaust pls lol!
Lol, I'll keep that in mind. Thank you for watching!
Brother,
You mentioned earlier that the white was the ground and next it became a power relay bypass.
anyhow, thanks! I will use this set up, but I have a 5 prong instead of a 4.
Any advice on the 5 prong relay set-up?
Freddy Rivera if you don't need the 5th lead pull the middle wire out.
Thanks, GZ.
Bud told me the 5th can be used as a toggle...
im not sure ..but because u have a foot of small stock wire running from the new wired to the pump isnt the stock wire to the pump still a issue ?
No, that length of smaller gauge wire will not make a difference according to the research I've done. I haven't had a problem at all with it.
GoodeZilla do u have a email or something I can contact u to ask a couple of questions?
@@MrBoomtheroom you can message me on my Facebook page. Https://facebook.com/goodezilla
Nice job ☺
No fuse close to the battery on the new lead from the battery?
Yes there is...I show myself putting the fuse in at 11:00 exactly in the video.
What guage wires are you using.
Does this also bypass the fuel pump control module?
DJ Luongo this just supplies the pump with a more constant voltage. And with the ground it bypasses the dual voltage stages of the pump and runs at 12v+ all the time
Nice video, by doing this are you bypassing the fuel control module? Also when you turn the ignition to the “on” position without starting the car, do you hear the fuel pump prime then shutoff or is this constant?
It's just supplying the pump with a 12volt constant source. But it still uses the factory power switching. It primes like before.
GoodeZilla thanks man, I think I’m having an issue where my power fc not talking with the fuel control module and it continues priming full blast.
@@Godzilla32 they run a return line so it shouldn't matter if its continuous man
anarchyr32 in the event of an accident it would matter.
Did you have the problem that your fuel pump stayed on and primed till you start your car instead of the 3-4 second prime. I have mine wired like yours and it just keeps priming
I do not have a problem with the fuel pump priming passed the 3 or 4 seconds. Are you sure you're not hearing the ATESSA pump priming that sits on top of the rear differential? It primes for much longer than 3 or 4 seconds sometimes.
Yeah it’s the fuel pump. I’ve read that the ecu is supposed to be used as a ground. And not grounded to the chassis. But I’m not sure which wire comes from the ecu
Ayo Flo are you using a power fc or stock ecu?
Joshua M power fc. Switched to haltech and it fixed the problem
Ayo Flo yeah I’m on Power Fc and had same issue as you. I’m at the moment now scratching my head because I literally just returned the wiring back to stock, pump works but car not starting.. something fishy going on now.
are you going to get rid of the four wheel steer
Yes I am. I have a driftworks eliminator kit sitting in the garage waiting to go in.
ok just curious because they are dangerous 450hp plus
Do you plan on doing a battery relocation?
Yeah, it's on the list lol
I know of someone who did a great DIY video on a battery relocation, but you could probably do it better :D
what model optima battery is that?
This is the one I bought - amzn.to/2nG9YZf
Bloody plastic screws along my door sills just spin. They don't actually lift up to come out...
Fucken ads
Did you run a fuse from the pump to the relay?
No, you run a fuse on the power wire from the battery to the relay.
I’m doing this with a walbro in my gtst tomorrow
@@focusfanatic01 I'm sure this is way too late to comment but how did this go on your gtst? i am looking to do the same..
@@177rhcp i ended up not needing to hardwire it to the battery. My tuner and I were ready on the dyno just in case we had to. But the car pulled 318whp with steady fuel psi