Modelmaking Guru How To: Drybrush Oil Paints (Millennium Falcon Heat Exhaust Vent Weathering)
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2015
- In this little "how to" guide I show you how I dry-brush oil paints - in this case I am adding the signature dark staining to the heat exhaust vents on the Fine Molds 1/72 Millennium Falcon.
I did try to stabilize the image to get rid of the wobbly camera effect, but it doesn't seem to have worked. Oh well :)
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Brilliant work. And your explanation of every aspect is very clear and thorough.
Thanks :)
The more I watch your vids, the less scared I become of oils. Fantastic tutorial as always, thank you!!!
Thanks! There's nothing really to be scared of, if you screw up, you just wipe it off. In all honesty, I kept futzing with the streaks after I had finished filming and now they look a little different :)
I love going back over old videos
Ha ha makes me cringe though, I have come a long way since then ^_^
I must admit, this video has inspired me to go with oils. I was unsure before seeing this. Now I'm totally sold on the idea
Do it, you won't want to dry brush with anything else again! Of course, there's the drying time, but this is a hobby of patience :) Try it out on a scruffy scrap kit first till you are comfortable with working them, then go to town!
Modelmaking Guru Hi im a total noob that just subscribed to build the millennium falcon. my question is on the primary grey hull did you airbrush or use the mig oils and brush?
vendetta fiend HI! The main basecolour? Airbrushed acrylic paints all the way, oil paints are really only for weathering or tinting already painted small panels (or maybe occasionally painting tiny panels or details). The only models really ever painted fully in oils are big figures, and that's pretty rare nowadays. OIl sare great for weathering and tinting but no use at all for painting basecolours. .
My goodness, dude! This is an exquisite paint job! Absolutely brilliant!
Thank you :)
Excellent video good sir. Thank you. Very informative.
Thanks! It's a bit old now, but still one way to do it :)
Looks a lot better than air brushing.Thank you for the video.
Some very nice painting here. Great job!
+Mark S Thank you :)
Great video. I'm building the deagostini falcon. I think it is more accurate. And the build quality is amazing. I highly recommend
OH I know ALL ABOUT the DeAg Falcon - There are six episodes in the playlist on this channel (but only six - I got the cockpit done but then a lack of space meant I had to stop. That's why in any livestreams someone always mentions "six episodes" as a way to poke fun at me. I'll get back to it one day...one day
Awesome !
+Fred Handrix Thanks :)
I'm getting the Bandai one and it looks phenomenal. While it is 1/144 scale, it is definitely on par with Fine Molds. MUCH cheaper too!
+InBedGamer Oh yeah! The Bandai one is by all accounts a sweet little kit ^_^
great tips thanks for sharing.
My pleasure, glad to be of help :)
That's what I was thinking...
This looks incredible! Is it possible to use this technique to paint all the "dirty greased" sections of the falcon, or would you rather go with an aor brush? Great job!!!
IIRC on this build I did all the weathering using dry-brushing, washes, streaks and filters, no airbrush. I'll be doing the Perfect Grade Falcon soon so I will show the weathering on that :)
so i have been going nuts trying to find both the starship filth and the engine grease. do you happen to know any oil paints i can use to replace them? i am building the bandai falcon and really want to try your way to the vents and the streaks.
+llmyth007 Welcome to the world of "Starship Filth is a bitch to find available"! Right now the ONLY place it is in stock is with Mig themselves, right here: migproductionswebshop.com/index.php?cPath=25_97
However, if you need to make your own, although it will not be perfect I am led to believe that you can mix standard artist's oils Payne's Grey and Burnt Sienna to get a reasonable Starship Filth lookalike. I don't know about Engine Grease though, I am guessing you could experiment with some of the Umber and Sienna artist's colours for something similar :)
What did you do on this kit for lighting. I never even saw that you finished this up or did a showcase at the treehouse
It wasn't lit - I don't do lighting (apart from in the Eagle). It was a commission build so I didn't film the process, but I did take images and posted up a montage once it was finished : ua-cam.com/video/GzefcOifGo8/v-deo.html
Hello. What where the oil paints used? I'm building the Deagostini Falcon
I'm afraid this was almtos a decade ago so my memory is a little fuzzy :D However, I filmed a more up-to-date version when I built the Perfect Grade Falcon which will give you much more information in detail, and you can see the ENTIRE weathering process and what oil and enamel paints I used in one single video: ua-cam.com/video/4-xMM1N-KmA/v-deo.html
What varnishes are you using with the oils?
I usually use Humbrol 49 acrylic matt, which gives no problems, but I do leave the oils to dry for DAYS before applying it to make sure they are as dried out as possible (as they are drybrushes, the drying time is reduced).
Great vid Fox, thanks. I have a completed FM Falcon with a few chips fallen off the red and grey Decals, any advice on repair and colour?
Cheers
+Tony Celliers Yeah - gently sand where the decal has chipped and leave it at that - they are supposed to be covered in paint chipping anyway so may as well make the most of it ^_^ You an repaint if you like, you would need to paint over the entire decal to avoid having to colour match. I found that Tamiya Flat Red with a tiny bit of Rubber Black was a good match, and for the grey (if it is the warm grey like on the middle bit of the mandible) then you could try something like Neutral Grey with something warm like a light brown mixed in (a tiny amount) just to warm the tone. But personally, I would simply leave them as I suggested and just make it part of the weathering ^_^
probably repeating this info in the thread but Revell acquired the molds for this model and now sells it under the Revell name but its the same model. Its the same parts but the packaging isn't as good as the FM packaging.
Yep, it's the Revell Master Kit or whatever they call it. They should just label it "The One We Didn't Actually Design Ourselves So It Isn't Ass" ^_^
question...the starship grime color you're using in this video of late has become extremely hard to come by. you have any recommendations on what other similar colors or mixes of colors to use as a substitute?
You are looking for Mig 502 Abteilung Starship Filth, which was discontinued BUT now is being produced again and has just started hitting online retailers so you should have no problem finding it. Alternatively you can use 502 Abteilung Smoke which is almost the same colour. Or, you can mix something similar yourself with regular artist's oils Payne's Grey and Burnt Sienna or Burnt Umber.
New sub here. As someone who likes Star Wars, U-boats and Gundam, it was a no-brainer, lol. Do you plan on working on any more SW kits in the future?
Thanks for the guide - I'm working on the FM 1/144 kit and will try this method. I'm thinking burnt umber with black on top would suffice, hoping all goes well. I've currently got a gloss coat on my Falcon, is it important to drybrush oils over a matte surface? Also, did you make the smaller panel streaks with the same method?
+lon242 Welcome and thanks for subscribing!
That colour combo should be okay I think, just go slowly and build the colours up (black can easily be overdone). INstead of black you might like to try some homemade Starship Filth - I am led to believe that Adding Burnt Sienna to Payne's Grey can give you a reasonably similar colour :)
YOu can drybrush over gloss or matte, it depends what results you want. A matte coat has a rougher surface so more paint will remain behind on the flat surfaces and will be stained by the oil paints, and also you will get softer fuzzy edges so for dry-brushing may be preferable (at least on the Falcom, which is supposed to be filthy).
As for the little streaks, I used a different techique - I think I showed it in my Colonial Viper build but I also did a write-up of the process on the blog, you can find it here: www.modelmaking.guru/guru-blog/fine-molds-172-millennium-falcon-build-part2
And yes, I will be doing more SW kits - thanks to @Helgan35 I have the Bandai Y-Wing in my to-do pile, and I fancy getting the 1/144 Falcon at some point myself. There is also the future 1/35 AT-AT from Dragon that will come out at some point (and as they have the SW licence for outside Japan I will be watching their releases with GREAT interest!)
+Modelmaking Guru
Thanks for the info! I can see how the Payne's Grey mix could work, I'l try and mix it up. I'll have to get Starship Filth one of these days. Looks like I'll matte the entire model for better drybrushing/fuzzier edges, a panel wash was my last step and some gloss still remains. Following that, highlighting and discoloration of certain panels. Your build log is packed with good info on weathering a Falcon, thanks for sharing.
Looking forward to your builds of more SW stuff, I've got a Bandai Y-Wing in the backlog as well. Their Falcon looks good - it seems to be more complex vs. the relatively simple, and already pretty good Fine Molds 1/144. And I had no idea Dragon could make SW kits, I'll look forward to 'em! A 1/35 AT-AT would be freakin' HUGE. A 1/35 Snowspeeder along with it would be sweet.
Yeah, I THINK it is Dragon, they have the "Outisde The US But Not Shitty Revell Crap" licence, I think.
IIRC I did a wash with thinned Tamiya Smoke after the initial base colours and decals were on, but over a matte varnish not a gloss varnish, because I wanted the Smoke to discolour and warm the panels. You may find a matte varnish is best for using oils to discolour panels as the colour will spread and wick across the panel and into the surface more.
not wanting to nitpick but if the ship is more or less flying in the one direction then wouldn't the streaking be in the one direction not in a 360 type way if you get what I mean?
That's more a question for Industrial Light and Magic, I am just replicating the studio miniature :) But you could maybe say that lateral (front-t-back) streaks are caused by exhaust material and hot scoring and debris whilst the ship is in motion, but the rest of the streaking is caused by water run-off from rain picking up grime, dirt and corrosion when the ship is landed and not in motion, pulling it out of panels and crevices and flowing down the ship through gravity, which is why those streaks are top-to-bottom and not front-to-back.
Yeah I realised that you were working of the studio miniature. I think I have been watching to many weathering videos and have become entrenched in the realism side of things, regardless you have done a great job and video.
It's always good to come up with a logical head-canon as to why your model looks the way it does, it informs how you paint it and how it looks at the end, so no harm in digging deep in the thinkage :)
There were two models used for the majority of shots in the OT: a 5 foot model built for Star Wars and a 32 inch model built for TESB. The radiating streaks you point out are one of the easy "tells" for spotting what model is in a scene or image. The engine streaks are short and head straight back on the 5' model.
hi, will this technique work with arcylic paint? thanks
You can dry-brush with acrylics, but you won't be able to blend them together like you can with oils to get smooth colour changes and fades because acrylics dry very fast and oils take a day or so when drybrushed.
great video! what matt varnish do you use ?
+kairus1 Thanks :) I use Humbrol 49 Matt varnish from the rattle-can - i'm far too lazy to fart about with an airbrush by the time I am at the stage of the final matt coat :)
can i use tamiya matt and gloss when using the starship filth? for weathering?
do you mean matt and gloss varnishes? I haven't used their varnishes so i can't say for sure, I can only say that Humbrol 49 works fine, and some of Vallejo's varnishes. Just test out on a scrap kit or piece of plastic that you have painted up first. Also make sure to allow several days to a week for the oils to fully cure.
If you mean the Tamiya matt and gloss additives (matt clear and gloss clear) then they are NOT varnishes and should only be mixed with other tamiya acrylics, not with oil paint. The only thing to mix in with oil paint is other oil paint or thinners for oil paint.
yea i meant tamiya matt and gloss, so no, okay ill get the humbrol...49 thanks
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Cool :) I mean, any acrylic varnishes should be fine, the Pledge Multi Surface Wax is basically an acrylic varnish and MUCH cheaper than buying specific model gloss varnishes. For matt I would stick to model paint manufacturer varnishes such as Tamiya, Humbrol or Vallejo. I just use Humbrol 49 exclusively so I can say for sure it will be fine. If you're not sure, you can always do a test on a piece of scrap :)
You state that you do commission model painting/weathering ... I'm about to start building the DeAgostini 'Build the Millennium Falcon' ... I'm sure you know what I'm on about, if not check it out. How much would it cost to have my one once built painted up to look as closely weathered etc as it can??
+Sauron191 That's certainly something I could do :) You'd need to make sure some parts weren't glued together (for example, external greebles on the hull plating could be glued in place but I would need to disassemble the cockpit/interior areas to paint them so I would need to be able to take them apart or remove them).
Obvs it's difficult to give an estimate of hours required as no-one has a finished one yet, but if you'd like to drop me a line at foxx(at)modelmaking.guru we can have a chat :)
Really great video on dry brushing. very well done. Possibly a bit off topic but something about this model and what you have done has always bothered me I find no rational explanation for these "streaks". As you stated you "posited" the 'exhaust" from the port in front would hit on the one further back. What I find odd is this doesn't seem to be a rational pattern of these exhausts. If this ship is moving especially in atmosphere, it seems as thought the streaks would go straight back from the ports, not at an angle away from the obvious direction of travel. I get that this is aesthetically pleasing but it doesn't seem realistic. Even in space I would think the exhaust would trail directly back from the ports and be in a straight line from the direction of travel. To be screen accurate I guess this is the way it has to be done but does anyone have a rational explanation why this might have been done this way, except by mistake originally? Thanks again for a great video.
+sharp357 Thanks for the kind feedback!
It's a good point, and logically you are right. In fact, If we assume that the streaks are from "stuff" coming out of the vents whilst the ship is travelling, then even more logically you would assume they would not even be streaks at all but just a blurry patch as the ship is not always travelling forward in a straight line, but in all sorts of directions. I suppose if they were not particulate exhaust deposits and in fact caused by something heavier like leaking fluid (like oil leaking from an engine component, for example) then it might make more sense that as fluid leaks when the ship is docked and not travelling that it would travel down the sloped hull in the direction of gravity and the curve of the hull would make them radiate out rather than all go in the same direction. But hey, I've only just woken up so I'm not sure if that would even make sense :)
+Modelmaking Guru You have analyzed it even further than I had and i like were you are going. Of course any other way at this point and it wouldn't be "canon". :) Thnaks for that and the video.
why did you leave off the exhaust vents ? to late for me now . I glued them in .
+Bruce f LOL not to worry! I had kept them separate for painting anyway, so that I could paint them and make sure once they were attached they had crisp edges between the hull colour and the grille colour. When I was doing the weathering I wanted to keep them the nice dark grey colour with a dark wash they already were but needed to get the streaking down along the inside walls of the vent housings without getting it on the grilles, so this was easier to do without the grilles in place. Also, although the grilles had a matt finish, I had some drybrushed chrome silver on the grilles that was added on top of the matt coat so that they added shiny bare metal highlights. and I needed to make sure that the shiny silver colour was not dulled by any final matt varnish, so they were attached after everything else was painted and varnished. Tactics! ^_^
did you just said " adios amigos"?
+orlandothx It was "Adios, amoebas!" - I always sign off with that ^_^
Am I the only one who notices that the exhaust streaks should go straight back (all 3 streaks should go in the direction of the middle streak if it followed the way air would flow back in flight). But, I guess the studio model was like that (radiating from the center). But it would be wrong. I could see rain/rust streaks radiating from the center (like they would as water ran off a stationary ship), but the engine exhausts should all go straight back. In my opinion.
+Gary Tinschert LOL you're the second person to say that ^_^ Instead of typing out the same answer again. I'll paste the response below (see the comment from sharp357 about a week ago):
"It's a good point, and logically you are right. In fact, If we assume that the streaks are from "stuff" coming out of the vents whilst the ship is travelling, then even more logically you would assume they would not even be streaks at all but just a blurry patch as the ship is not always travelling forward in a straight line, but in all sorts of directions. I suppose if they were not particulate exhaust deposits and in fact caused by something heavier like leaking fluid (like oil leaking from an engine component, for example) then it might make more sense that as fluid leaks when the ship is docked and not travelling that it would travel down the sloped hull in the direction of gravity and the curve of the hull would make them radiate out rather than all go in the same direction. But hey, I've only just woken up so I'm not sure if that would even make sense :)"
My thoughts too. But I guess it wouldn't look as cool. And you have to remember, the Falcon twists and turns allot.
I would love to build this but I just cant afford 500 for the model.
+Ben96873 Yep,. now it is out pf production the prices will only get higher. However, much as I hate to suggest a Revell kit, Revell will be releasiong a "Master" model of thew Falcon which is supposedly this exact Fine Molds model reboxe3d (and not the usual crap they put out themselves). I doubt that will be cheap either though :(
Worth saving up though, for either one!
Bandai do a not-too-expensive 1/144 sca;e Falcon which looks pretty sweet (but it's not big)
You’re so-called weathering is way too heavy handed and incredibly unrealistic. Check your references. No ILM studio model was ever this dirty.
This was from six years ago and was not using studio model pictures as reference, Later builds, completed when I had learned more and gained more experience, had much more refined weathering and used much more reference material. But yes, the streaks are a bit dark on this specific build. And you are wrong about the ILM models - some of them were massively weathered, although they used very different techniques to anything we would use today, which can be hard to accurately reproduce, and which were also "unrealistic". Also your so-called feedback is way too aggressive and incredibly rude . Check "how to offer feedback and criticism that people will actually respect and listen to rather than just writing you off as a smug rivet-counter".