Variations of this. For example am working on what I call a prototype, upcycled paper mache 32 inch rigid heddle style loom. And I wanted it to do it all but, its not going to be my table loom, already bought a 45 reed for my next project. This one has two double heddle bars will have a firm beater, bought a 10 dent rigid heddle but will make the rest, and the back ones can be string. But will make 2 real reeds, lower dents so can double the set, no more than 3 potential in each slot. As you double the sett by doubling the rigid heddles, and they're going into the rigid heddle rests. And having lifts, as many as I can fit. I can cram 16 in there but 12 harnesses half harnesses may be more comfortable. Should have made the prototype longer, its longer than a normal rigid heddle. Its designed to lean against my computer desk, watch a show, move the chair back, have 2 dowels out the front end with 2 front stand legs so it should be about an inch over my lap. I can't do treadles, mobility issues. And sectional warping. The dowels have sleaves. Now was already debating 1 in. or 2. How many spools do I want to wind? My diy tensioner will be, a box with 2 reeds and several dowels. And my loom doesn't have a breastbeam so will need to clamp it to the table and move it along. Since its paper mache style, its going to have some earth tones chalk paint, little embossing and foils and eventually will turn the string heddles into paper bead for threads. Like an alt loom needs to be a work of art in itself or it will be fugly.
OK, I am warping my first pretty long project on my sectional beam, about 7 yards. I have nothing but a warping board. 400 ends, 8/2 cottolin...it started out pretty nightmarish. Honestly, I never even used a warping board until I got my floor loom last month. So, after a rocky start, and a few experiments, I used my rigid heddle loom as a 'tension box', it was a very slow process, but it worked. Then I tried this, which ended up being the process I finished up with, I wound my warp straight off of the warping board! I set it on the floor and simply took it off of the warping board piece by piece, row by row. Over the back beam, tensioning with my hand as it went. It worked so well that I am designing a warping board with 'rolling' pegs. Attached at the back with wing nuts, loosen to unwind. First things first though, finish dressing the loom...it's quite the learning experience!
Great video! I have a sectional warping beam on my Leclerc Medico, and am waiting for one to be delivered for my Leclerc Artisat this week. I LOVE using the sectional warping process, and have a tip for those weavers who don’t want to use multiple spools of the same color to use with the beam and tension box set up. It’s called a Warping Wheel! You can make 1 - 2 inch warp bouts and wind them onto the sectional beam one section at a time, with or without the tension box, though I prefer WITH as the tension is much better. I honestly don’t think you could do more than 9 yards on the warping wheel, but still, that’s a good amount. The drawback to this is the cost of a warping wheel. It’s about $700+, which is why I made one of my own, BUT I think you could use a warping board and still use the tension box to help put on one section at a time with good success. I’m planning to give that a try too. Anyway… just my two cents worth of experience 😊
Fantastic! Good luck with your new sectional warping beam for the Artisat too! I'd love to learn more about the warping wheel... it just costs so much I don't know if I could justify it! haha thanks for sharing!!
@@sweetgeorgia Yes, it’s quite expensive! I didn’t buy mine though. I watched videos with Warping wheels and looked up TONS of photos on the internet, then just kind of eyeballed everything and made one of my own. In the end, it cost about $150 to make it myself, and I’m no woodworker! When it comes down to it, it’s really just sticks, nuts, and bolts. It wasn’t an easy build, but I suspect that’s mainly because I tend to overthink EVERYTHING! I just finished making a spool rack and bought a load of plastic storage spools because of your wonderful video. I’m looking forward to seeing how that goes with the tension box and sectional beam. 😁
@@crystalbennett1069 It does seem that everything that is needed is easily made with cheap pieces from any big box store. And as far as tensioning...I use a large dowel rod at the end of my warp and...it works. Where there's a will, there is a way. And it's the truth! :)
Here’s my take on warping methods. In 1975 I learned to warp the old Swedish way, back to front, from Lily Bohlin in Victoria. Ten years later I learned to warp from front to back and I haven’t looked back. Warping front to back solves the problem of having to ask for help when beaming. The (equal enough)drag from going through the reed and heddles solves the tension issue. I’ve also used sectional warping on longer warps, 10-40 yards and that’s definitely the way to go, but for most people the front to back method should work very well.
Hi, would it be possible to do a full video on the schacht tension box please. I have really enjoyed your weaving videos. I am new to weaving and I am considering which loom and tension box to purchase. Many Thanks. Keep you tubing your great.
I use theA.V.L warping wheel now I will never go back to faffing around with loads of bobbins again the wheel is lovely for any length and changing colours is a breeze
I would be interested in learning about sectional warp weaving. I have one that has been sitting because I cant find much information about how to use it. This video was very helpful
You are the best teacher. Finally I get it! I was having a hard time trying to figure out what sectional warping was, how it’s done and why it’s done. Thanks for this tutorial!
I found it useful, too, for explaining sectional warping. I have a Leclerc with a sectional beam but had no idea what is was or how to use it. Now I get it but I also learned I'll never do it. As they say in South Carolina, "Too much sugar for a nickel."
I received a used loom that came with a sectional warping beam and a tensioning device. I was trying to learn what these are and whether I would even want to use them. I gotta say my husband will *not* be happy to learn that these mean I will need more implements (bobbins and a rack). But if I ever get to working with longer warps, then it may very worth my time to try this. Thanks so much!
I always heard about sectional warps but never knew what it meant. Thank you for explaining. This is really fascinating. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for the video demonstration of sectional warping. The longest warp I have wound is 9 yards. A warp-winding tip for winding long warps on a warping board that I learned from a girlfriend is to mount the warping board vertically, short sides are horizontal and long sides are vertical, so that your arms are saved from stretching wide. SAVES ARMS AND SHOULDER FROM STRAIN. Enjoy
Hey, Felicia, I am pretty sure that I am not the first to tell you this, but you should check out a warping reel. No "yarn packages" to wind, no spool rack needed, you can dress your loom by yourself. I bought mine from AVL and love it - I can use it on any loom with a sectional beam. Give them a look!
Thanks for the discussion on the pros and cons of sectional warping. I found it very illuminting and gives me quite a bit to base an opinion on for my own use.
Thank you for this. I am new to all of this but I have an old Hammett Loom now that this reminds me of. It had the tensioning device that looks like yours. Nobody could really explain it to me here where I live and now I think I can use it. I appreciate the weaving videos. I have directionality issues and knitting and crochet are hard for me. I ordered the Sentro in two sizes recently after watching your videos. I LOVE to make yarn so I guess I'm going to be a weaver and a machine knitter. I love your videos. Your teaching method is SO clear and helpful!
That’s wonderful!! I’m glad you found the crafts that you enjoy! Good luck with your loom too. I know I was curious about sectional warping too and there were few places to learn about it ☺️
So well said, warping alone stops me from weaving often. I get very stressed by warping alone and have often thought about sectional warping for my loom. Great video!
Yes! I think it's great to have different ways of doing things, depending on your warp and it's nice to know that there's more than one way of doing things :) Thanks for watching!
Thanks so much for explaining what is involved with sectional warping. I'm a new weaver, and had seen these, but didn't know how it would work. I think I'll stick with the warping mill for now. My husband has been really helpful for the winding!!! I can really see how this would be useful if you didn't have someone around to help.
After watching this video I am inclined to pull out my dowels and forgo learning to use the sectional beam. Warp costs too much to waste. I did learn more about sectional warping so that I have a good idea what you are doing. It would have been helpful to explain how you secure each section.
Thank you for this video . I am new to all of this I have a four harness sectional warp beam Norwood loom. Good to find out that I need a tension box and an upright spool rack. Thank you.
Using a warping wheel/square changed sectional warping for me. I could never afford to buy the spool rack and spools, so I had tried using individual warp chains and a tension box. It worked, but not the greatest. I saved up for a warping square once I saw how it worked and now I can set up my sectional warp with ease and no extra winding onto spools.
Yes! I've only ever heard of warping wheels/squares but never seen it work in real life, so I don't know if that would work for me. Plus they are expensive for a one-function kind of tool... but I totally get the appeal of not having to wind spools... that part isn't super fun 😆
Super useful. It had been a while since I used my sectional beam and tension box. My only question is that the final step you do (sliding the threads under that thick bar at the front of the tension box) isn’t how I’d ever done it. My understanding was that the fat metal bar is to help the threads slide down to the sectional beam without snagging on the wood of the tension box. I have never put threads underneath that before. Hm.
I recently got a sectional beam, my louet tension device is evil, im currently working from a warp mill until my avl arrives. You dont need to use bobbins if you can measure it on a warping board. Zero waste then. Else an avl wheel or equivalent ditches the tension box as tensioning is built in
Liz, I just yesterday ordered the AVL warping wheel. I have a 48" AVL home loom with a sectional beam and HATE using the tension box and winding all of those spools. I'm hoping the warping wheel will make me happy! Which AVL loom do you have?
I have an AVL 48" home loom with a sectional warp beam (2 inch sections). I just ordered a Warping Wheel from AVL. I will be measuring out each 2 inch section, one at a time, and then transferring that section to a section on my warp beam. I HATED having to make all of those spools in order to warp my loom. Fingers crossed that I will be happy with the wheel method when I get a chance to use it. I have just found your UA-cam channel and am really enjoying your videos!!
I was GIVEN a Louet David 8H floor several years ago. I also got the huge yarn winder that takes up too much space and lives in the basement. Loom is equipped with sectional beam but I do not know if I have the tension box. Will have to go visit! My other looms are Jack style and I haven't even learned how to use David yet. Glad to see you may teach a class on this.
Thank you for posting this. I inherited LeClerc four shaft loom with a sectional beam. I don’t have the other tools to try the warping process. My father in law made his own tension box which unfortunately broke in storage. I hope to try this process at some point.
Oh and I forgot to add that we have invited Laura Fry, GCW Master Weaver, to come back to our studio this fall and we will be filming a whole course on how to warp sectionally for the School of SweetGeorgia ☺️
Count me in on learning more about sectional warping. I have a Spring Loom and have barely tasted it’s capabilities. I’ve very recently acquired a bobbin stand and a few other “sectional” accessories. Now, I need guidance. Lead on…
Love your channel! A friend of mine - I call my weaving guru - introduced me to a warping wheel by AVL. It is one my to buy list since it takes the bobbin rack out as well as the tension box. So for sectional warping it makes it one step easier ❤
enjoyed listening to your process. weaving a hand towel with Beam as i listened. i use an ashford 16" rigid heddle and warp using a hybrid direct warping method incorporating a warping board.
Please keep the weaving content coming. When making a yarn hungry rep weave project I've warped through the tension box directly off my Schacht warping mill two inches at a time. Also, you can just load your spools with what you need. The big expense for me was the yardage counting spool/bobbin winder, but it's been very helpful with spinning, hank making, and just figuring remnant yardage. One day I may buy a McMorran balance.
Thank you for this video. I have an antique rug loom that came with a sectional warp beam and two different spool holders but no tension box or spool winder. The person who got me started on the loom taught me using a warping frame and I put a warp that was nearly 20 yards long on the loom. I would love to learn to warp like this and not have to bribe family members to help dress the loom.
I have been using an old LeClerc Meco with treadles upgrade. It's a blessing to use. Now I have a New used purchase of a LeClerc Colonial. Countermarch is very new to me. I too want to collaborate on sectional back beams and warping methods. Everyone I know in the Carolinas love their sectional warping.
Q: How do you measure, or know, how much warp you have beamed on in any section? This is a very helpful video as I was trying to figure out how a back beam works, the equipment and process. I appreciate the pros and cons too.
Hi! Thanks so much for this video and commenters’ information. This video is helpful. We have hand made a warping horse for our loom and have the tension box and spool rack. We are winding 60 threads per inch. Our last warp had some tension issues and varied results. One problem is that we are currently hand guiding the thread into the inch slot using an additional reed. I see on your tension box that it is directly over the sectional inch of back beam and doesn’t seem to need hand guiding. Do you find in your set up that the all the threads go into the inch section without a problem? It seems that the position of the tension box over the inch of the warp beam is important. I will look into the Avl warping mill as mentioned in the comments below.
I am interested in learning this process too. I presently dress my loom front to back by my self. Longest warp 10 yards for tea towels. It was a little difficult. The sectional warping would have been the better choice after the learning curve.
I recently purchased a counterbalance floor loom secondhand that has a sectional warp, I too would LOVE to learn more. Struggling. Everyone has their was as you have stated. This really helped me with mine, TY!!! Im still learning though.
How interesting! Im quite a newbie in weaving, using old school looms, one I think is homemade. I LOVE to make the warp, I think it´s a little like meditation! When it comes to get it on the loom...I use a HB - HusBand! 😀
Interesting video! I am in the process of getting the warp ready on my biggest project yet (blanket woven at double width on my Louet Jane 70cm). I’ve actually had to redo the warp because of a number of problems (cross wouldn’t move through this particular yarn, a lot of snagging in the raddle I was using and the outer ends spilling off) but I’m actually enjoying the process of learning how to get it right and just finished building myself a new raddle. Because my warp is so wide and the yarn is thick I’ve had to make 8 ‘sections’ (not the same as in sectional warping, just that I have 8 braids to put on the loom the same way as if you’d wound one full warp on your board) and I am a bit worried about getting the tension right on this while beaming, which is why I was attracted to this video. But I’m not sure if this solution is the best for my project, even if there are sectional beams available for my loom.
Where was this video when I was trying to figure out how to warp my inherited LeClerc with sectional beam?? So well done, thank you. I like the storage bobbins you used, but I've got lots of shuttle bobbins, which I have ended up using on my thread rack. I just end up having make more as I go. This was also the first time I'd seen any kind of yardage counter used. I've been measuring by weight for my bobbins.
My first project on my floor loom with a sectional back beam I had some warp that I had taken off my rigid heddle, too sticky for it, but it was cut to equal lengths and stored. I easily wound it on my sectional beam. No other equipment. It was about 6 yards long. All that equipment is expensive...I'm thinking to just do it my way for a few years...
@@Sue-ec6un absolutely, my favourite process is just winding a warp on a warping board, rough sleying through a reed and then winding on to a sectional back beam now, rather than winding on section by section. It’s easy and flexible. 👍
Thanks for sharing this, Felicia. I have a loom with a sectional beam. I purchased a spool rack and tension box from a friend, but I haven't used them yet. I would love to learn more about how to use these tools to make warping easier.
That video was great! I don’t even have a floor loom - just a little table loom - but I can see the advantages for warping low-dent setups. (Sorry, I may not be using the right terminology. I’m new to weaving.) Not too many ends per inch is what I’m trying to say! Thanks again for explaining everything so clearly!
Seems like a yarn counter would help with waste too when winding the bobbins for your yarn packages. EEW has a Kickstarter for one right now that I’m super excited about!
I am fascinated by this and hope to watch your progress. I don’t have enough room to do this, however I was watching your blog on e.spinners and I might try that. Thank you for the vlogs.
Thanks for this information. I'm a newer weaver and hadn't looked into what sectional warping actually was. It looks like you need a lot of additional stuff and space to make this happen. It does appear to be an advantage for doing really long warps though.
How about using both approaches and thereby minimize waste. I.e. use the warping board to warp all the yarn you need for a single section into one hank. Then cut the loop and drape the warp up instead of using a rack of yarn packages. They shouldn't tangle but if they did a little then the tension box means you should be able to untangle without ruing the section on the warp...?
That works but it is a lot slower, although you also don't have to warp with a cross which does make manual warping on the board a little bit faster. I do actually think this is the way to go at first to try the process out and then the weaver can decide if they A. want to keep doing it that way, B. buy a warping wheel or C. buy a spool rack (and possibly a winder). Ultimately, using a spool rack and winder with counter will end up being the fastest method, faster than even a wheel, at the end of the day but both B. and C. require a significant amount of additional $$$.
i just received a set of 1” 25mm sectional rakes, tension box & spool rack for my fanny loom - this video is well timed for me! 😃 please do share any tips/tricks you come across.
That's great!! One thing I missed in the video was saying that you can wind 1" wide warps on your warping board and then feed them through your tension box, rather than using the spool rack... but I'm sure I'll make another sectional video :)
Great video thank you. I found it so interesting. I just have a rigid heddle loom but warping these bigger looms has always been a mystery to me. Gosh there’s a lot to learn! 🙏
How do you measure the yarn that needs to go onto the loom? For example if you need 15 yards, how do you know you wound 15 yards from the cones/packages onto the loom?
I have a messed up warp for a color and weave gamp that has 7 different complications of dark and lights. Plus yellow breaks in between. I shorten the warp from 9 yards to 3 thankfully. No matter how you shake it beat it the 8/2 cotton twisted tangled and the warp was all out of sequence 😢. I hate warps. This is the perfect answer I think, why do things 2,3 times when you only need do it once!!
@@denisehigby2554 oh! Yes warp tangles are the worst!!! I have experienced just cutting off and abandoning a long warp because I tried to “save time” with a short cut. I hope you can salvage your colour & weave warp! We are actually doing a colour & weave weave-along in November, maybe you could weave it then! 💪
Thanks for the great video! Where in the process do you set up your yardage counter so you know you have 6.5 yards on your beam for each section? I have a friend who uses her sectional beam all the time, but she routinely makes 40 yard warps as a production weaver. I easily make 10 yard warps on my warping mill. Perhaps that is something you could try for those warps that are too long for your warping board? I love the Leclerc warping mill! Also, I would love to see another video on using the shed regulator on the Mira once you have had time to get used to it. In particular for switching from 1/3 to 3/1 twill. Thanks for these wonderful and educational videos. :)
Why is it that you don't need to use paper to separate your warp when using a sectional warp beam? Are there any occasions when you get irregular tension using s sectional warp beam? I'm considering buying an old loom that has one. I didn't even realize they existed before I saw it. Is it ok for your only floor loom to have a sectional warp beam or would that be limiting for different yarn types? I'm not seeing anyone using it with thicker yarns. Is it capable of doing that?
Thank you for making this video. I would like to have seen you explain the points from getting your section of warp made to attaching it to the beam and winding, then what you do to the ends before you thread your heddles. I do appreciate your showing the tension box. I have an old table loom with a sectional beam. Finding videos on this subject has been challenging. May I also make a suggestion to raise your camera so that you are standing up straight when making your initial presentation? You don’t look comfortable.
Thank you, Felicia! I'm planning on weaving enough tartan for 3 kilts (30 yds) and with all the color changes in each sett (around 3 or 4 setts) that's a lot of color changes if I were to warp on a mill. It can be done that way, but a sectional warp beam with tension box will make the task a lot easier. Or, if you're going to wind a warp with lots of stripes, etc. Any warp over 20 feet long will benefit from a sectional warp beam. No pre-sleying! No raddle! No warping board or mill! But, the tradeoff is that you need a tension box, bobbin rack, ample bobbins, and the like. Hope all's going well there!
I dont have a tension box. I used my warping beam to count out my warp. My loom has a sectional warping on it and I don't have a raddle. Can I get this to work?
For sure. I sometimes wind warps on my warping board and then move them to my loom and beam onto the sectional warp beam. I follow a process I learned from Laura Fry about rough-sleying the reed with the prewound warp and then beaming it on nicely. It works great. I use the rough sleying method instead of a raddle.
Thank you so much for this video - I am a new weaver and inherited a sectional Leclerc and am having the most awful time with the threading and would love to know if you have any tips. I take my taped sections and *ever-so-carefully* unwind it from the beam and rest the bundle on the shafts for threading, but when I remove the tape they almost always get twisty on themselves before I can get the individual threads through the heddles. Now I’m cutting the tape from the package and re-sticking the individual threads to more tape stick to my beater bar while I work but it just seems like there must be a better way and no one really shows this step. How can I get nice, orderly, and Untwisted threads from my back beam to the heddles? 💙 thank you!
Oh yes! Thanks Sheryl! I think there are a few ways to do this and it might be a bit fiddly. Some tension boxes allow you to make a cross and so you can slip something into each section to show which end comes next in the cross. Yes my bundles got twisted up a bit too… I made another video about that next step of sectional with this warp too. Actually, right now, I’ve put a warp on the loom where I wound it on the warping board and I beamed it to the loom with a trapeze and used the sectional beam to keep the warp in place. It worked beautifully. I have photos up on my Instagram (@lomeetsloom) right now. But I’ll make another video about this process too. Good luck with yours!
@@sweetgeorgia omigosh yes!! - unrolling all the sections at once (instead of one at at time! ) and setting up an extra rod to hold the ends near the heddles (rather than trying to drape them on the shaft and hope they don't fall off) is such a great idea and I've never seen that before - thank you so much! This makes so much more sense than what I was doing... really appreciate your reply - thank you!
Thanks for covering this. I was wondering how you deal with knots in your warp thread. On a warping board, I usually cut that section out as I make my warp. If you are winding 10 or more threads at a time and there is a knot in one thread, how do you remove it without pulling the whole section off? Thanks.
For sure. In this case I tried to be very careful to check for knots as I wound the storage bobbins. But you could also undo the knots as you come to them in the warp as you are weaving and join on a new warp end, as if you were repairing a broken warp thread.
I was thinking of that also. For people who do very long warps, they must deal with them on the loom as they weave, especially if they warp directly from original cones. Like you said, there probably is a trade off and you have to decide which is best for your situation. You have definitely simplified the process. I think I would like to give it a try sometime as well..... I look forward to hearing more about your experiences as you continue to do more warps.
I bought a used Mira that had a sectional warp beam and I’m struggling to warp the loop. Would love more info on warping sectional warp beams in SOS. My first warp is finally on the loom and I fear it’s a bit of a mess. Is there a FB Group for SOS?
That's a super good question. Some tension boxes have a shedding device which allows you to create a cross (like Schacht: www.schachtspindle.com/pdfs/tension-box-0511.pdf and AVL: avllooms.com/products/tension-box-1). For some reason, my box doesn't have a shedding device... although I could theoretically rig one by using a warping paddle clamped to the box. In any case, I put a piece of masking/painters tape on the strip of warp ends and that keeps them in the correct order. So as I'm threading the loom, I pull the warp ends off the tape in the order that they should be. If one or two ends cross, I'm not super concerned about it... but that's how I'm doing it now :)
@@sweetgeorgia Thanks for the link. I had just finished penning the question of how you measure the warp length. I would love to see more videos in depth of how to sectional warp.
@@JulieGeorge-b4k there are some tension boxes that will help you create a cross to thread from. In my case, I don’t use a cross… all the cut ends are preserved by some masking tape and I thread from the masking tape. 👍
@@sweetgeorgia I’ve been warping back to front for 40 plus years but currently a friend and I have been restoring a loom that weaves 12 feet wide. It has a sectional beam. We’re getting ready to put on warp for two full size, full 8’ wide coverlets. We just finished two wool blankets to test the set up and get us used to weaving on it. Hard to get the cross out of my brain though, lol.
Variations of this. For example am working on what I call a prototype, upcycled paper mache 32 inch rigid heddle style loom. And I wanted it to do it all but, its not going to be my table loom, already bought a 45 reed for my next project. This one has two double heddle bars will have a firm beater, bought a 10 dent rigid heddle but will make the rest, and the back ones can be string. But will make 2 real reeds, lower dents so can double the set, no more than 3 potential in each slot. As you double the sett by doubling the rigid heddles, and they're going into the rigid heddle rests. And having lifts, as many as I can fit. I can cram 16 in there but 12 harnesses half harnesses may be more comfortable. Should have made the prototype longer, its longer than a normal rigid heddle. Its designed to lean against my computer desk, watch a show, move the chair back, have 2 dowels out the front end with 2 front stand legs so it should be about an inch over my lap. I can't do treadles, mobility issues. And sectional warping. The dowels have sleaves. Now was already debating 1 in. or 2. How many spools do I want to wind? My diy tensioner will be, a box with 2 reeds and several dowels. And my loom doesn't have a breastbeam so will need to clamp it to the table and move it along. Since its paper mache style, its going to have some earth tones chalk paint, little embossing and foils and eventually will turn the string heddles into paper bead for threads. Like an alt loom needs to be a work of art in itself or it will be fugly.
OK, I am warping my first pretty long project on my sectional beam, about 7 yards. I have nothing but a warping board. 400 ends, 8/2 cottolin...it started out pretty nightmarish. Honestly, I never even used a warping board until I got my floor loom last month. So, after a rocky start, and a few experiments, I used my rigid heddle loom as a 'tension box', it was a very slow process, but it worked. Then I tried this, which ended up being the process I finished up with, I wound my warp straight off of the warping board! I set it on the floor and simply took it off of the warping board piece by piece, row by row. Over the back beam, tensioning with my hand as it went. It worked so well that I am designing a warping board with 'rolling' pegs. Attached at the back with wing nuts, loosen to unwind. First things first though, finish dressing the loom...it's quite the learning experience!
Great video! I have a sectional warping beam on my Leclerc Medico, and am waiting for one to be delivered for my Leclerc Artisat this week. I LOVE using the sectional warping process, and have a tip for those weavers who don’t want to use multiple spools of the same color to use with the beam and tension box set up. It’s called a Warping Wheel! You can make 1 - 2 inch warp bouts and wind them onto the sectional beam one section at a time, with or without the tension box, though I prefer WITH as the tension is much better. I honestly don’t think you could do more than 9 yards on the warping wheel, but still, that’s a good amount. The drawback to this is the cost of a warping wheel. It’s about $700+, which is why I made one of my own, BUT I think you could use a warping board and still use the tension box to help put on one section at a time with good success. I’m planning to give that a try too. Anyway… just my two cents worth of experience 😊
Fantastic! Good luck with your new sectional warping beam for the Artisat too! I'd love to learn more about the warping wheel... it just costs so much I don't know if I could justify it! haha thanks for sharing!!
@@sweetgeorgia Yes, it’s quite expensive! I didn’t buy mine though. I watched videos with Warping wheels and looked up TONS of photos on the internet, then just kind of eyeballed everything and made one of my own. In the end, it cost about $150 to make it myself, and I’m no woodworker! When it comes down to it, it’s really just sticks, nuts, and bolts. It wasn’t an easy build, but I suspect that’s mainly because I tend to overthink EVERYTHING! I just finished making a spool rack and bought a load of plastic storage spools because of your wonderful video. I’m looking forward to seeing how that goes with the tension box and sectional beam. 😁
@@crystalbennett1069 It does seem that everything that is needed is easily made with cheap pieces from any big box store. And as far as tensioning...I use a large dowel rod at the end of my warp and...it works. Where there's a will, there is a way. And it's the truth! :)
Here’s my take on warping methods. In 1975 I learned to warp the old Swedish way, back to front, from Lily Bohlin in Victoria. Ten years later I learned to warp from front to back and I haven’t looked back. Warping front to back solves the problem of having to ask for help when beaming. The (equal enough)drag from going through the reed and heddles solves the tension issue. I’ve also used sectional warping on longer warps, 10-40 yards and that’s definitely the way to go, but for most people the front to back method should work very well.
Hi, would it be possible to do a full video on the schacht tension box please. I have really enjoyed your weaving videos. I am new to weaving and I am considering which loom and tension box to purchase. Many Thanks. Keep you tubing your great.
I use theA.V.L warping wheel now I will never go back to faffing around with loads of bobbins again the wheel is lovely for any length and changing colours is a breeze
I would be interested in learning about sectional warp weaving. I have one that has been sitting because I cant find much information about how to use it. This video was very helpful
You are the best teacher. Finally I get it! I was having a hard time trying to figure out what sectional warping was, how it’s done and why it’s done. Thanks for this tutorial!
Glad it helped!
I found it useful, too, for explaining sectional warping. I have a Leclerc with a sectional beam but had no idea what is was or how to use it. Now I get it but I also learned I'll never do it. As they say in South Carolina, "Too much sugar for a nickel."
I received a used loom that came with a sectional warping beam and a tensioning device. I was trying to learn what these are and whether I would even want to use them. I gotta say my husband will *not* be happy to learn that these mean I will need more implements (bobbins and a rack). But if I ever get to working with longer warps, then it may very worth my time to try this. Thanks so much!
I always heard about sectional warps but never knew what it meant. Thank you for explaining. This is really fascinating. Thank you so much for sharing.
Thanks for an interesting demo. I will stick with my warping mill, back to front, crank and yank method which I can do by myself. Whatever works!
Absolutely!! Whatever works!! 😊
Thank you for the video demonstration of sectional warping. The longest warp I have wound is 9 yards. A warp-winding tip for winding long warps on a warping board that I learned from a girlfriend is to mount the warping board vertically, short sides are horizontal and long sides are vertical, so that your arms are saved from stretching wide. SAVES ARMS AND SHOULDER FROM STRAIN. Enjoy
One of my plans for the evening is to mount my warping board. I am absolutely going to do this and my shoulders thank you.
Hey, Felicia, I am pretty sure that I am not the first to tell you this, but you should check out a warping reel. No "yarn packages" to wind, no spool rack needed, you can dress your loom by yourself. I bought mine from AVL and love it - I can use it on any loom with a sectional beam. Give them a look!
I’m a newbie but researching. Please share, what does AVL stand for? Thanks
@@jeanbcook AVL is the name of the company that builds these warping reels. They are also very well known for their looms.
Thanks for the discussion on the pros and cons of sectional warping. I found it very illuminting and gives me quite a bit to base an opinion on for my own use.
Thank you for this. I am new to all of this but I have an old Hammett Loom now that this reminds me of. It had the tensioning device that looks like yours. Nobody could really explain it to me here where I live and now I think I can use it. I appreciate the weaving videos. I have directionality issues and knitting and crochet are hard for me. I ordered the Sentro in two sizes recently after watching your videos. I LOVE to make yarn so I guess I'm going to be a weaver and a machine knitter. I love your videos. Your teaching method is SO clear and helpful!
That’s wonderful!! I’m glad you found the crafts that you enjoy! Good luck with your loom too. I know I was curious about sectional warping too and there were few places to learn about it ☺️
Wonderful video. Thank you! Very helpful. ❤
So well said, warping alone stops me from weaving often. I get very stressed by warping alone and have often thought about sectional warping for my loom. Great video!
Yes! I think it's great to have different ways of doing things, depending on your warp and it's nice to know that there's more than one way of doing things :) Thanks for watching!
I have one but have never used it. I would love a class or workshop on it. I need to get the tension box and spool holder.
Thanks so much for explaining what is involved with sectional warping. I'm a new weaver, and had seen these, but didn't know how it would work. I think I'll stick with the warping mill for now. My husband has been really helpful for the winding!!! I can really see how this would be useful if you didn't have someone around to help.
After watching this video I am inclined to pull out my dowels and forgo learning to use the sectional beam. Warp costs too much to waste. I did learn more about sectional warping so that I have a good idea what you are doing. It would have been helpful to explain how you secure each section.
I just purchased an Ashford Tabby Loom, now the fun beings.
Thank you for this video . I am new to all of this I have a four harness sectional warp beam Norwood loom. Good to find out that I need a tension box and an upright spool rack. Thank you.
Using a warping wheel/square changed sectional warping for me. I could never afford to buy the spool rack and spools, so I had tried using individual warp chains and a tension box. It worked, but not the greatest. I saved up for a warping square once I saw how it worked and now I can set up my sectional warp with ease and no extra winding onto spools.
Yes! I've only ever heard of warping wheels/squares but never seen it work in real life, so I don't know if that would work for me. Plus they are expensive for a one-function kind of tool... but I totally get the appeal of not having to wind spools... that part isn't super fun 😆
Super useful. It had been a while since I used my sectional beam and tension box. My only question is that the final step you do (sliding the threads under that thick bar at the front of the tension box) isn’t how I’d ever done it. My understanding was that the fat metal bar is to help the threads slide down to the sectional beam without snagging on the wood of the tension box. I have never put threads underneath that before. Hm.
I recently got a sectional beam, my louet tension device is evil, im currently working from a warp mill until my avl arrives. You dont need to use bobbins if you can measure it on a warping board. Zero waste then. Else an avl wheel or equivalent ditches the tension box as tensioning is built in
Liz, I just yesterday ordered the AVL warping wheel. I have a 48" AVL home loom with a sectional beam and HATE using the tension box and winding all of those spools. I'm hoping the warping wheel will make me happy! Which AVL loom do you have?
Felicia!
Thank you for this video ❤
I have an AVL 48" home loom with a sectional warp beam (2 inch sections). I just ordered a Warping Wheel from AVL. I will be measuring out each 2 inch section, one at a time, and then transferring that section to a section on my warp beam. I HATED having to make all of those spools in order to warp my loom. Fingers crossed that I will be happy with the wheel method when I get a chance to use it. I have just found your UA-cam channel and am really enjoying your videos!!
I was GIVEN a Louet David 8H floor several years ago. I also got the huge yarn winder that takes up too much space and lives in the basement. Loom is equipped with sectional beam but I do not know if I have the tension box. Will have to go visit! My other looms are Jack style and I haven't even learned how to use David yet. Glad to see you may teach a class on this.
Thank you for posting this. I inherited LeClerc four shaft loom with a sectional beam. I don’t have the other tools to try the warping process. My father in law made his own tension box which unfortunately broke in storage. I hope to try this process at some point.
Oh great! I’m glad it could help! I just put a sectional beam on my Leclerc Fanny at home and will be recording new videos about that too.
Oh and I forgot to add that we have invited Laura Fry, GCW Master Weaver, to come back to our studio this fall and we will be filming a whole course on how to warp sectionally for the School of SweetGeorgia ☺️
Count me in on learning more about sectional warping. I have a Spring Loom and have barely tasted it’s capabilities. I’ve very recently acquired a bobbin stand and a few other “sectional” accessories. Now, I need guidance. Lead on…
Love your channel! A friend of mine - I call my weaving guru - introduced me to a warping wheel by AVL. It is one my to buy list since it takes the bobbin rack out as well as the tension box. So for sectional warping it makes it one step easier ❤
Yes! I need to learn more about warping wheels!
If you make the connecting thread you tie onto longer the warp can travel closer to the heddles and save warp thread
enjoyed listening to your process. weaving a hand towel with Beam as i listened. i use an ashford 16" rigid heddle and warp using a hybrid direct warping method incorporating a warping board.
Please keep the weaving content coming. When making a yarn hungry rep weave project I've warped through the tension box directly off my Schacht warping mill two inches at a time. Also, you can just load your spools with what you need. The big expense for me was the yardage counting spool/bobbin winder, but it's been very helpful with spinning, hank making, and just figuring remnant yardage. One day I may buy a McMorran balance.
Thanks for the vote for weaving, Julie!! That gives me so much energy to keep going :) thank you!
Thank you for this video. I have an antique rug loom that came with a sectional warp beam and two different spool holders but no tension box or spool winder. The person who got me started on the loom taught me using a warping frame and I put a warp that was nearly 20 yards long on the loom. I would love to learn to warp like this and not have to bribe family members to help dress the loom.
I have been using an old LeClerc Meco with treadles upgrade. It's a blessing to use. Now I have a New used purchase of a LeClerc Colonial. Countermarch is very new to me. I too want to collaborate on sectional back beams and warping methods. Everyone I know in the Carolinas love their sectional warping.
That’s so exciting for you! New looms are fun. Yes, I’d like to do more sectional warps to get faster and better at it!
Q: How do you measure, or know, how much warp you have beamed on in any section? This is a very helpful video as I was trying to figure out how a back beam works, the equipment and process. I appreciate the pros and cons too.
I just read your comment about counting the rotations as you wind on.
Hi! Thanks so much for this video and commenters’ information. This video is helpful. We have hand made a warping horse for our loom and have the tension box and spool rack. We are winding 60 threads per inch. Our last warp had some tension issues and varied results. One problem is that we are currently hand guiding the thread into the inch slot using an additional reed. I see on your tension box that it is directly over the sectional inch of back beam and doesn’t seem to need hand guiding. Do you find in your set up that the all the threads go into the inch section without a problem? It seems that the position of the tension box over the inch of the warp beam is important. I will look into the Avl warping mill as mentioned in the comments below.
I am interested in learning this process too. I presently dress my loom front to back by my self. Longest warp 10 yards for tea towels. It was a little difficult. The sectional warping would have been the better choice after the learning curve.
I recently purchased a counterbalance floor loom secondhand that has a sectional warp, I too would LOVE to learn more. Struggling. Everyone has their was as you have stated. This really helped me with mine, TY!!! Im still learning though.
How interesting! Im quite a newbie in weaving, using old school looms, one I think is homemade. I LOVE to make the warp, I think it´s a little like meditation! When it comes to get it on the loom...I use a HB - HusBand! 😀
Interesting video! I am in the process of getting the warp ready on my biggest project yet (blanket woven at double width on my Louet Jane 70cm). I’ve actually had to redo the warp because of a number of problems (cross wouldn’t move through this particular yarn, a lot of snagging in the raddle I was using and the outer ends spilling off) but I’m actually enjoying the process of learning how to get it right and just finished building myself a new raddle. Because my warp is so wide and the yarn is thick I’ve had to make 8 ‘sections’ (not the same as in sectional warping, just that I have 8 braids to put on the loom the same way as if you’d wound one full warp on your board) and I am a bit worried about getting the tension right on this while beaming, which is why I was attracted to this video. But I’m not sure if this solution is the best for my project, even if there are sectional beams available for my loom.
I have access to a loom with a sectional warp. I have t used it yet and this wonderful video gives me more confidence to have a go.
Where was this video when I was trying to figure out how to warp my inherited LeClerc with sectional beam?? So well done, thank you. I like the storage bobbins you used, but I've got lots of shuttle bobbins, which I have ended up using on my thread rack. I just end up having make more as I go. This was also the first time I'd seen any kind of yardage counter used. I've been measuring by weight for my bobbins.
My first project on my floor loom with a sectional back beam I had some warp that I had taken off my rigid heddle, too sticky for it, but it was cut to equal lengths and stored. I easily wound it on my sectional beam. No other equipment. It was about 6 yards long. All that equipment is expensive...I'm thinking to just do it my way for a few years...
@@Sue-ec6un absolutely, my favourite process is just winding a warp on a warping board, rough sleying through a reed and then winding on to a sectional back beam now, rather than winding on section by section. It’s easy and flexible. 👍
Thanks for sharing this, Felicia. I have a loom with a sectional beam. I purchased a spool rack and tension box from a friend, but I haven't used them yet. I would love to learn more about how to use these tools to make warping easier.
Yup! It's easy enough that my 5-year old daughter helped me wind on the back beam!
That video was great! I don’t even have a floor loom - just a little table loom - but I can see the advantages for warping low-dent setups. (Sorry, I may not be using the right terminology. I’m new to weaving.) Not too many ends per inch is what I’m trying to say! Thanks again for explaining everything so clearly!
Seems like a yarn counter would help with waste too when winding the bobbins for your yarn packages. EEW has a Kickstarter for one right now that I’m super excited about!
Me too!!
Thanks for posting about the Kickstarter project, just backed it!
I am fascinated by this and hope to watch your progress. I don’t have enough room to do this, however I was watching your blog on e.spinners and I might try that. Thank you for the vlogs.
Thanks for this information. I'm a newer weaver and hadn't looked into what sectional warping actually was. It looks like you need a lot of additional stuff and space to make this happen. It does appear to be an advantage for doing really long warps though.
How about using both approaches and thereby minimize waste. I.e. use the warping board to warp all the yarn you need for a single section into one hank. Then cut the loop and drape the warp up instead of using a rack of yarn packages. They shouldn't tangle but if they did a little then the tension box means you should be able to untangle without ruing the section on the warp...?
That works but it is a lot slower, although you also don't have to warp with a cross which does make manual warping on the board a little bit faster. I do actually think this is the way to go at first to try the process out and then the weaver can decide if they A. want to keep doing it that way, B. buy a warping wheel or C. buy a spool rack (and possibly a winder). Ultimately, using a spool rack and winder with counter will end up being the fastest method, faster than even a wheel, at the end of the day but both B. and C. require a significant amount of additional $$$.
i just received a set of 1” 25mm sectional rakes, tension box & spool rack for my fanny loom - this video is well timed for me! 😃 please do share any tips/tricks you come across.
That's great!! One thing I missed in the video was saying that you can wind 1" wide warps on your warping board and then feed them through your tension box, rather than using the spool rack... but I'm sure I'll make another sectional video :)
@@sweetgeorgia i look forward to more sectional warping videos!
Can this be used for textured yarns as well? Loved your vlogs and always look forward to them.
Great video thank you. I found it so interesting. I just have a rigid heddle loom but warping these bigger looms has always been a mystery to me. Gosh there’s a lot to learn! 🙏
Thank you so much! Yes! there's plenty of interesting ways to warp a rigid heddle loom too! So much to learn!
How do you measure the yarn that needs to go onto the loom? For example if you need 15 yards, how do you know you wound 15 yards from the cones/packages onto the loom?
Very nice
I have a messed up warp for a color and weave gamp that has 7 different complications of dark and lights. Plus yellow breaks in between. I shorten the warp from 9 yards to 3 thankfully. No matter how you shake it beat it the 8/2 cotton twisted tangled and the warp was all out of sequence 😢. I hate warps. This is the perfect answer I think, why do things 2,3 times when you only need do it once!!
@@denisehigby2554 oh! Yes warp tangles are the worst!!! I have experienced just cutting off and abandoning a long warp because I tried to “save time” with a short cut. I hope you can salvage your colour & weave warp! We are actually doing a colour & weave weave-along in November, maybe you could weave it then! 💪
@@sweetgeorgia how do I join this? That would be great 👍
Thanks for the great video!
Where in the process do you set up your yardage counter so you know you have 6.5 yards on your beam for each section?
I have a friend who uses her sectional beam all the time, but she routinely makes 40 yard warps as a production weaver. I easily make 10 yard warps on my warping mill. Perhaps that is something you could try for those warps that are too long for your warping board? I love the Leclerc warping mill!
Also, I would love to see another video on using the shed regulator on the Mira once you have had time to get used to it. In particular for switching from 1/3 to 3/1 twill.
Thanks for these wonderful and educational videos. :)
Why is it that you don't need to use paper to separate your warp when using a sectional warp beam? Are there any occasions when you get irregular tension using s sectional warp beam? I'm considering buying an old loom that has one. I didn't even realize they existed before I saw it. Is it ok for your only floor loom to have a sectional warp beam or would that be limiting for different yarn types? I'm not seeing anyone using it with thicker yarns. Is it capable of doing that?
Thank you for making this video. I would like to have seen you explain the points from getting your section of warp made to attaching it to the beam and winding, then what you do to the ends before you thread your heddles. I do appreciate your showing the tension box.
I have an old table loom with a sectional beam. Finding videos on this subject has been challenging.
May I also make a suggestion to raise your camera so that you are standing up straight when making your initial presentation? You don’t look comfortable.
What is your process for getting yarn from large cones onto your smaller spools/packages ?
Thank you, Felicia! I'm planning on weaving enough tartan for 3 kilts (30 yds) and with all the color changes in each sett (around 3 or 4 setts) that's a lot of color changes if I were to warp on a mill. It can be done that way, but a sectional warp beam with tension box will make the task a lot easier. Or, if you're going to wind a warp with lots of stripes, etc. Any warp over 20 feet long will benefit from a sectional warp beam. No pre-sleying! No raddle! No warping board or mill! But, the tradeoff is that you need a tension box, bobbin rack, ample bobbins, and the like. Hope all's going well there!
I dont have a tension box. I used my warping beam to count out my warp. My loom has a sectional warping on it and I don't have a raddle. Can I get this to work?
For sure. I sometimes wind warps on my warping board and then move them to my loom and beam onto the sectional warp beam. I follow a process I learned from Laura Fry about rough-sleying the reed with the prewound warp and then beaming it on nicely. It works great. I use the rough sleying method instead of a raddle.
Perfect thx
Q: Do you still have lease sticks with a sectional back beam? If not, how do you keep your threads in order?
I just read your comment about adding tape to the ends to keep them in order. That works.
Thank you so much for this video - I am a new weaver and inherited a sectional Leclerc and am having the most awful time with the threading and would love to know if you have any tips. I take my taped sections and *ever-so-carefully* unwind it from the beam and rest the bundle on the shafts for threading, but when I remove the tape they almost always get twisty on themselves before I can get the individual threads through the heddles. Now I’m cutting the tape from the package and re-sticking the individual threads to more tape stick to my beater bar while I work but it just seems like there must be a better way and no one really shows this step. How can I get nice, orderly, and Untwisted threads from my back beam to the heddles? 💙 thank you!
Oh yes! Thanks Sheryl! I think there are a few ways to do this and it might be a bit fiddly. Some tension boxes allow you to make a cross and so you can slip something into each section to show which end comes next in the cross. Yes my bundles got twisted up a bit too… I made another video about that next step of sectional with this warp too. Actually, right now, I’ve put a warp on the loom where I wound it on the warping board and I beamed it to the loom with a trapeze and used the sectional beam to keep the warp in place. It worked beautifully. I have photos up on my Instagram (@lomeetsloom) right now. But I’ll make another video about this process too. Good luck with yours!
Here is the second video I mentioned: ua-cam.com/video/Y-ab4EOT_54/v-deo.html
@@sweetgeorgia omigosh yes!! - unrolling all the sections at once (instead of one at at time! ) and setting up an extra rod to hold the ends near the heddles (rather than trying to drape them on the shaft and hope they don't fall off) is such a great idea and I've never seen that before - thank you so much! This makes so much more sense than what I was doing... really appreciate your reply - thank you!
Hi how you make the encroix? I don't find it for this tension box
how do you keep each section even. i've had a problem with it humping up in the middle and then the tension is off.
Thanks for covering this. I was wondering how you deal with knots in your warp thread. On a warping board, I usually cut that section out as I make my warp. If you are winding 10 or more threads at a time and there is a knot in one thread, how do you remove it without pulling the whole section off? Thanks.
For sure. In this case I tried to be very careful to check for knots as I wound the storage bobbins. But you could also undo the knots as you come to them in the warp as you are weaving and join on a new warp end, as if you were repairing a broken warp thread.
I was thinking of that also. For people who do very long warps, they must deal with them on the loom as they weave, especially if they warp directly from original cones. Like you said, there probably is a trade off and you have to decide which is best for your situation. You have definitely simplified the process. I think I would like to give it a try sometime as well..... I look forward to hearing more about your experiences as you continue to do more warps.
I bought a used Mira that had a sectional warp beam and I’m struggling to warp the loop. Would love more info on warping sectional warp beams in SOS. My first warp is finally on the loom and I fear it’s a bit of a mess. Is there a FB Group for SOS?
Did you use sticks or paper to separate the layers of the warp? Do you not have to do that when sectional warping?
With a sectional beam, you don’t have to use sticks or paper at all! 🎉 that’s part of what I love about it!
Do you use a counter with your tension box ?
I have a counter, but I really just end up counting revolutions of the sectional beam. I haven’t used the counter much.
Good to know. Thank you so much@@sweetgeorgia
So how do you stop the threads from getting crossed without a threading cross?
That's a super good question. Some tension boxes have a shedding device which allows you to create a cross (like Schacht: www.schachtspindle.com/pdfs/tension-box-0511.pdf and AVL: avllooms.com/products/tension-box-1). For some reason, my box doesn't have a shedding device... although I could theoretically rig one by using a warping paddle clamped to the box. In any case, I put a piece of masking/painters tape on the strip of warp ends and that keeps them in the correct order. So as I'm threading the loom, I pull the warp ends off the tape in the order that they should be. If one or two ends cross, I'm not super concerned about it... but that's how I'm doing it now :)
@@sweetgeorgia Thanks for the link. I had just finished penning the question of how you measure the warp length. I would love to see more videos in depth of how to sectional warp.
Am from Nigeria, how can I get the loom from you pls?
Thanks! We do ship worldwide... what kind of loom are you interested in?
Have you used the sectional warp since this video?
Absolutely! We actually even filmed a course about warping sectionally with Laura Fry. It’s coming out later this year on our School of SweetGeorgia 😆
How do you get a cross at the end?
@@JulieGeorge-b4k there are some tension boxes that will help you create a cross to thread from. In my case, I don’t use a cross… all the cut ends are preserved by some masking tape and I thread from the masking tape. 👍
@@sweetgeorgia I’ve been warping back to front for 40 plus years but currently a friend and I have been restoring a loom that weaves 12 feet wide. It has a sectional beam. We’re getting ready to put on warp for two full size, full 8’ wide coverlets. We just finished two wool blankets to test the set up and get us used to weaving on it. Hard to get the cross out of my brain though, lol.
i don't sectional warping.. i mean for a big industrial loom ya, but for a handweaver i think it's not optimal.