Finding and Fixing Broken Engine Mounts
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- *Sponsored Video* With great information.
In this video I show you how to diagnose and replace broken engine mounts in your vehicle. Specifically, I’m working on a 2014 Jeep Patriot in this video, but the general principals apply to most engine mount applications.
Special thanks to Anchor Industries for suppling the parts and props for this video.
Learn more about Anchor Industries at: www.anchor-onl...
Check out Anchor Industries at: www.anchor-onl...
Find the part you need at: www.showmethep...
Anchor Jeep Patriot 2014 catalog :www.opticatonl...
Parts Shown:
Front, Anchor 3131 Engine Mount; 4WD/FWD OE (5105494AF)
Rear, Anchor 3145 Engine Mount; 4WD/FWD OE (68032586AH)
Right, Anchor 3130 Engine Mount; 4WD/FWD OE (5105489AK)
Left, Anchor 3134 Transmission Mount; AT/CVT;4WD/FWD OE (5105492AG)
Procedure Applies to:
Dodge Caliber L4 2.0L (2007-2017)
Jeep Compass L4 2.0L (2007-2017)
Jeep Patriot L4 2.0L (2007-2017)
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Music: Crazy, by Patrick Patrikios (UA-cam Music)
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I’m impressed with Anchor for actually putting in the hole for wire clip after you mentioned it.
Actually listening to their customers I’m impressed
I’m not impressed, they should have at least installed it themselves and figure out the problem, this just showed me they never cared about the customer in the first place, they only acted because they got called out.
@@davidgruen7423At least they did something tho... Too often companies (in any industry) do NOTHING when called out
I lol'd at the before and after being the same. Those are some squishy mounts!
Same lmao
My thoughts too lol
I’m glad somebody stated the obvious. I can’t see any difference.
sometimes movement isn't the only indicator of failure
i had a vibration so bad that it was like a massage chair in my van, but there was no obvious excessive engine movement
had all the mounts replaced and now the idle is as smooth as butter
This is the first video I've seen of your's. Obvious to me that you have lots of knowledge, wisdom and skills. I like the explaining as you go through the steps.
Perfect timing, was thinking I need to check my engine mounts
Fucking rediculous. me too😃
Me too. 07 dodge caliber with the exact same engine. I almost bought these exact mounts three days ago but waited to do some research.
I find that this stuff happens to me all the time. I'll think about a something and within 2-5days or so, a UA-camr that I'm subscribed to will do a video about it within that timeframe. I thought it was a coincidence until it started happening all the time. I started to keep track of it because of how often it was happening.
I actually predicted (in my head) 3 days ago that someone that I'm subscribed to will do a video on this exact engine for the mounts. I just didn't know who at the time. I'm pretty annoyed that it has gotten to be this way. I mean it's cool but definitely not cool if ya know what I mean.
I believe it's because google controls our search patterns to the point where you don't have an original thought. Everyone is controlled and on the same wavelengths. We give up all of our search data for free without our consent. Should be illegal.
Man, I gotta say thank you. If it weren’t for some of your videos. I would’ve never gotten through some of my flips. 🙏🏼
Some flips flop
Eric, your command of the English language is always impressive, as well, of course, your mechanical knowledge. Keep up the great work!!
I'm impressed by the QA response time on that clip hole!
I realize this is a sponsored video, but I’ve never experienced Anchor mounts to be of high quality and long lasting . They are very poor quality. OE is the best alternative. Great video!
"OE is the best". Correct. A car is the sum of its parts so why buy say a Honda or Toyota and then use 'will fit' cheap parts. The replacement will/should last as long as the original did. One ex: Brother had a Toyota and he goes to a parts chain and buys their junk water pump. That one lasts about 30k and he can't find the receipt for the lifetime warranty so he buys another, that one lasts about 20k miles. The original lasted about 130k.
@@jimb8842 except auto manufacturers don’t build cars to last. They build them to turn a profit. Weather you’re buying the sum or the part/labor you’re still buying from them, and that’s what they want.
I’m not saying every aftermarket part is better, but a parts company really is the sun of their parts. Weather that’s affordability, reliability, or performance.
They're beyond horrible mounts, absolute garbage!
@@chrismoore7557 And yet Eric decries poor quality parts but he's cool using them if he gets sponsored. Says it all really.
Eric, You are one cool dude! Thank you for the informative and thorough demonstration of changing out all 4 mounts. Really, you have been a super car champion hero to me for the past 10 years or more! I'm doing all 4 on my Mitsubishi Outlander this week.
So far I’m 1 for 3 on Anchor mounts. I installed a torque strut that was to rigid caused annoying engine vibration. Installed a trans mount from Anchor that was so bad it felt like a solid mount at idle vibrating enuff to loosen your filings! The front motor mount was better and did loosen up considerably. Changed the other two to oem vibration gone.
I have a 2003 Camry that jumps when I put it into reverse, especially when I am on an incline. I think I am going to pursue this as a fix. The car has 270+K miles and the mounts are original.
Neutralizing the mounts before final tightening is something alot of techs forget also.
Its not something they "forget". They are not paid enough to give a crap.
5:05 Little does Eric know how hard that back motor mount is to replace. As a previous Jeep Compass owner I can tell you even with a lift that rear mount is a royal pain in the arse. Only difference between a Patriot, Compass and Doge Caliber is the body style. Everything suspension and drive train is exactly the same. 8:20 as I watch Eric struggle thru this knowing exactly what needs to be done to change all these since I have done all 4 on my Compass when I had it. Eric had it easy, had this been a manual trans and AWD like mine he would have had to fight with those front bolts in the rear mount. The transfer case is in the way and you need 2 woblers to allow you to put a socket on them and your ratchet or the head of your ratchet ill not allow you to get on the socket. Plus on the AWD version that rear mount is taller.
Gotta be honest - I've had a couple of Anchor mounts literally break in half while I (or my wife) was driving. It's always the front lower one that absorbs the brunt of the engine torque, but still - they need to make the front ones beefier, otherwise I'm sticking with OEM after those two careful trips home with the engine banging the firewall every time I hit the gas. 🤷♂️
That's awesome that anchor changed the production to include that hole for the wire bracket very nice @EricTheCarGuy
Good negotiation skills Eric :)
The engine actually looked like it moved more after the replacement.
I didn't want to say it.. lol but it was pretty obvious.
Thats why for engine mounts, ALWAYS go OE. I dont wanna sound like "that guy that hates chineese parts", I have never had an achor or any other aftermarket mount last longer than one year
Yup engine move more.
@@rawalqayyum5128 meh.. They just we're really in need of changing yet--- it wasn't much flex at all before, and not that much different after either.. I bet the cracked one had just enough flex that it would make a sound if you rocked it hard enough, but even it was still holding pretty well. besides, those transmissions aren't the best--- and a lot of times that clacking noise is actually in the U-joints; the front CV joints are bad about clacking like that to on some models, because they are locked in full time-- even if its only in 2 wheel drive... But even more likely, the transmission mount will go bad too-- and that will allow it to jump up and down-- even though it "appears' fine when you look at it. That's where I would bet the most as to what the problem was-- but I'm sure he checked all that stuff too.. It was really just a sponsored ad-- they sent him mounts and he put them on-- done deal; all is well.
I saw made in china on the box, that explains that
Eric you make all your repairs look so easy thank you for sharing your wonderful videos I am from South Africa
This may be old information, don’t know if it applies to anything anymore, but on the old Chrysler fwd cars, the transaxle side mount was adjustable and restrained the engine from side to side motion. This allowed you to equalize the free play in the left and right axle shafts, to avoid having one axle compressed hard between the wheel bearing and the transaxle. Thanks for the good video.
Have a great weekend 👍
You too!
This is the best reference for doing it the right way! I'm dirt poor broke, but I do have enough for some tubes of polyurethane glue...
I'm amazed at how much that engine moves with brand new mounts.
Dude, Eric, Your quality in all aspects of this video is absolutely stellar! Good camera shots, editing, lighting, narration, and workmanship! This is why your "Da Man!"
Thank you for the installation tips! I just replaced the transmission mount on my Firebird, which is an "Anchor" as well. I'm glad to hear they are a good brand. The motor mounts are next.
terrible brand, read the rest of the comments on here
Very cool about adding the hole to the mount after seeing it in this video.
Kudos to both you and Anchor
When a sponsored video comes out on a channel with nearly 1.7M subscribers, yes, they will look at their production line and make a change. When the poor soul doing this in his/her garage on some other vehicle has an issue I'm sure we won't be so fortunate. And, probably not even for the regular shop that runs into an issue.
This was exactly the information I needed. You still got the magic Eric.
Fantastic. I have a Caliber, but same car in effect, so I can't be happier to be seeing this video when I myself am fixin' to do the engine mounts. Great timing, Eric! :D
Edit, after watching: Good info. That battery tray I already knew was gonna be a problem, having done the starter in mine. Fairly straight forward job, though, and I thankya very muchly on the video!
You should take a hole saw, sized to the bold head, and cut out the blocking portion of the battery tray, so the engine mount bolt could be removed without all that stuff being moved. Great video Eric, love the channel!
Or you could install the bolt in the other direction. I don't see why they didn't do that at the factory in the first place.
Thanks, ETCG. I like your videos and thanks for being up front about the products you use.
This is the newest vehicle I have seen you work on.
Years ago I replaced the mounts on my Corolla with after market ones just to save some dough and man alive, that was one big mistake, it felt as if I had installed hockey pucks in there. So much vibration came thru into the cabin.
same with my camy, it sill vibrated after i changed the mounts with anchor/pioneer mounts after a year they were trashed i paid the extra money for all 4 oem mounts now the cabin is smooth cant even tell if the car is on
Same here 99 Corolla
same here '96 Corolla. Stock ones were super worn out, anchor was no improvement and I had to modify them to fit. Kept breaking flex pipes afterwards
Working on modern Jeeps is like playing Jenga
I kept looking at the plastic intake. That's never going to hit a decade, not as an active engine component. I dislike planned obsolescence with a passion. If i could go back in time and trip Bernard London with a banana peel, i would.
For a minute, I thought I was watching a Volkswagen repair video.
Welcome to European cars 🤣 we are use to it.
@@aserta they will you will be surprised
About a year ago I changed all the mounts on my 2008 Ford Focus.
I had lots of idle vibration before hand (like you could see the steering wheel vibrating when the A/C was on) Passenger mount was the first I tackled because it was a fluid filled mount that was known to go bad, and it was visibly bad.
Replaced with a OEM Ford part, still had vibration, replaced the upper transmission mount, also OEM.
Still had vibration, and tired of spending big money on OEM mounts, for the lower torque mount I bought a cheap EBay part, put it in and vibration instantly was gone.
There was NOTHING visibly wrong with the old lower torque mount, so I was surprised to find butter smooth idle after installing the eBay mount.
After a year of doing daily gig economy deliveries using the car, the eBay mount still is holding up great with a smooth idle.
So just because a mount still looks fine, it could still be bad, the rubber has probably aged and dried up, so the rubber has become stiff.
Eric you always make everything look very easy you're an ace mechanic good job. I wish mine were that easy I have a 92 Cadillac sedan DeVille 4.9 V8 front transmission side isn't that bad but the other 3 headache because it's such a big engine 😳. Again good job
Your videos are the best and I always love watching
Thank you for another cool video, ETCG.
I have heard some shit on Anchor before, no idea why.
I have used them for years. Always attention to detail & quality.
Nice demonstration and replacement Eric @EricTheCarGuy
Regarding shaking the engine to settle the mounts, the service manual should probably specify some measuring points and distances to set the mounts correctly, which with those Chinesium mounts really doesnt matter much as I dont expect them to last long...
This video came out at quite the handy time.
I'm suspecting some bad engine mounts in my BMW 530d due to alot of vibration at idle.
Only thing is that the vibrations don't change at all going from park to drive or vice versa.
I wouldn't trust anchor. They will be crispy critters within a years time. Love that cheap rubber.
And they don’t fit half of the time 👍🏼
Yep been doing this 10 years and not a chance I’m using anchor for mounts. Anything but OEM is not worth it.
Good thing I kept the old ones.... and I only spent ...$20 on them anyway.
Yea, they're the cheapest option usually.
I've used anchor,and I've used dealer mounts,right now from Amazon to e-bay to Rock auto,you really don't know where the hell they are made anymore,but a new mount is better than a busted mount any day.
Another great video. Thanks Eric! You are a great teacher.
Nice closer look at the different engine mounts styles and what it looks like when your broken @EricTheCarGuy
Very education video for me! I did not know the engine was supposed to "rotate" or move with that much when putting the vehicle into gear. Thank you for the lesson.
Great tip from a professional thanks Eric
While doing motor mounts on a 2001 Chevy Blazer 4x4. I made the mistake of using a scissor jack to support the Engine "V6 Vortex" anyway the jack became scrape for the metal pile as it just crushed under the weight of that job. That was a hard lesson learned but no one was injured other than that jack.
Replaced my front passenger side motor mount on my 05 Acura RSX with the best one on Rock Auto. Got 1000 miles out of it. Going Oem this time.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing. 🦅
I get that this is a sponsored video, but come on... don't promote junk/bullshit. we got scotty for that. Advise on the other hand is solid, and i thank you for that.
Always enjoy your channel ETCG!
My Fusion ran terribly with harsh shifting. I thought there was a transmission problem. Turned out the hydraulic engine mount was bad (leaked all its fluid). Replaced it and it ran smoothly again. 😅
Back in high school in the 70s, I had a friend with some kind of Dodge...Can't remember exactly...Duster or similar 1960s muscle car. It had no fenders or hood because he had just squeezed in a 440 and the inner fenders needed trimming. The engine was just resting on the engine mounts and was not hooked up to a transmission or anything, just the throttle and ignition...oh, and the back of the engine was resting on a 2X4 for mock-up purposes.
So my friend decides to show off and starts the engine and starts to rev it with the accelerator pedal inside the car. He stomps on the gas and the engine torques to one side and when he releases, the engine bounces back onto the unbolted, solid engine mount. He does this several times, until the last one, the engine leaps out of the engine bay, flys over the side where the fender would have been, hangs on the header pipes on that side and proceeds to roll over onto the front yard, to land upside down where it sputtered to a stop...If you've ever seen a 440, you'll know that this is a huge engine....and very heavy. it took us and about half a dozen guys to roll that thing onto the oil pan so we could hook the engine hoist onto it. The fun part is that this was his dad's project and he wasn't too happy...The saving grace is that he has not installed the CrossFire intake yet...so this rare piece of metal lived to see another day!
Спасибо тебе огромное за такое познавательное видео!
1:04 just as important, don't lean inside the engine compartment. Five years ago, i saw a guy get his beck clamped inside an old Renault's hood as the car "jumped" in reverse.
Oooowwwwww!!!!!!!!!!
Absolutely amazing you put on 4 motor mounts on that vehicle faster than one Mount can be installed in my 4.9 V8 92 DeVille Cadillac motor.🤷🏻♂️ 🤦🏻♂️
Nice job Eric, thanks for sharing 👍
Good video, thanks. I had to replace all of my mounts immediately after the warranty of my 2007 civic. Apparently the rubber cracked in all of them. Very expensive to do. I think there were 3. Since then, I haven't had to replace any on this vehicle. Anyway, these collision sensitive mounts are not as long lasting as the old types.
While not having your vast experience I have never come across engine mounts deteriorating with a vehicle that young in age, not to mention the difficulty working on the vehicle. What was the motor mount rubber made of, a pasta composite, good thing they didn't use Jeep engines on the Mars explorer.
That's fiat Chrysler though. You get use to seeing that after awhile
I am impressed good job.
One other thing to mention - If you suspect your transmission of 'hard shifts' then first thing to do is inspect your engine and transmission mounts. I had that on my 2008 Lucerne and it turned out to be a bad motor mount. Has all the same basic symptoms.
Anchor has a long way to go with there engineering on there mounts. I can't tell you how often I have had to modify a supposedly exact replacement mount to get it to fit.
I'm 3 for 3. Centre sleeve of one was half inch too wide, had to cut in. One wouldn't fit in the subframe, had to cut out the bolts and replace with shorter ones. And they're not much better than worn out stock ones.
After 20 years I've just changed all three engine mounts in my Ford. The difference is shocking. Silent interior, no vibration at all.
Great equipment
A 2014 Jeep needing motor mount replacement, wow Dodge's quality standards have fallen really really bad.
I have older vehicles and have no issues with the motor mounts, most are GM.
Thank you, it's been a learning experience.
Maybe transverse mounted engines transmit more force to the mounts? Seems like a problem for a lot of FWD cars too. A front wheel drive jeep just seems strange. It's like "Hey, I have a jeep that is economical and rides smooth." Instant visions of Croc' Dundee retorting "That's not a Jeep. This is a Jeep." as he slams a spare axle shaft down on the rusted hood of a J10. I digress. Modern engines generally have more horse power and torque which could degrade the parts faster. It could always be that they are cutting costs on something as essential as engine mounts. If customers want a smooth riding Jeep "car" soft rubber engine mounts may be an engineering necessity.
Has Anchor's quality significantly increased in the last 5-6 years? I replaced the 14 year old OEM mounts on my mom's Mazda back in 2014 with anchors and they only seemed to last about 1-2 years. For how much of a hassle it is to replace some engine mounts I'm now in the "buy once cry once" camp and always go OEM. Not trying to be a snob, I'm honestly curious if there are high quality aftermarket engine mounts out there that are just as good as OEM.
They are just as crappy as you remember.
I test drove a manual Ford Fiesta years ago, the mounts were so bad it was throwing itself out of gear under acceleration such was the amount of movement in the engine
Engine mounts on 3gen TL are notorious!
Another test I’ve done is place a jack under the engine and lift lightly if the vibration goes away with a little support that’s a good sign the mounts are weak.
Good they added the hole. Bad they initially left it out.
Hey Eric, not only do I have the same Elvis clock in my garage for decades now but I also was thinking about it the other day and have no earthly recollection of how I came to own it. Did yours just appear out of nowhere too?
That company sucks Eric. I used them in my Acura TL and I thought the dashboard was gonna vibrate off. I changed them out after I replaced balancer, adjusted valves, cleaned every emission parts possible. Changed all those junk Anchor mount with Honda mounts and no vibration at all. Please don’t sell people on these mounts. I replaced all 7 engine and transmission mounts with anchor then changed them all back to Honda. Thankfully Oreillys gave me my money back.
damn. That was my experience with Anchor and Dorman on toyotas, my '07 Accord needs mounts, thanks for saving me from getting burned again. OEM just so much more expensive
Excellent as usual
Morning Eric great vehicle to own if you like to learn auto mechanics as you will get plenty of practice.
Hey did they ever catch the cat burglar
No, and I never expected them to.
@@ericthecarguy on a positive note my son bought a complete exhaust with the cat from the same place you got yours for the Element. He has an 04 Pilot. Only issue he had it didn’t come with the clamps. Truck is nice and quiet.
I think the best thing out of the video is Anchor learning and progressing their product, do I believe new engine mounts improved the movement of the engine back and forth? Absolutely not.
I noticed the same thing, just as much movement after replacement as before. The one was cracked and would get much worse if not replaced.
@@jimb8842 Yes he indeed corrected an issue that would've later shown itself relevant down the road but I dont think it was something to chase after. Maybe his thought was if one bushing has a crack maybe they all do and in combination it might be giving the mile of forward and reverse torque. In the end, its just how Chrysler designed it to work.
Those JEEP patriots are tough cars to own! They require...aLOT of work
@Faggot Rotten hahahahahahahahahahaha
Good vid Eric. Appreciate it.
Hmmm u have the force young jedi Eric🤣🤣
I used to enjoy working on cars, but now, they're so over-the-top complex that it takes all the joy out of it for me. I watched a video about a newer car, and it was designed in such a way that the skid plate (or whatever, under the car) had to be removed IN ORDER TO DO AN OIL CHANGE. And I wonder what kind insanity must infect the minds of some engineers.
Eric: you say to make sure you've ruled out all the other causes for a rough running engine. What are the other possibilities? I have a 1993 Toyota pickup, it doesn't have an OBD so I have to figure things out the old fashioned way.
Great video
Will broken mounts cause funny shifting as well?
good video to learn, thanks, my Toyota 2006 only rattling on 1st gear, and ok on 2, 3, 4, 5 gears (5 speed manual,) what parts are bad?
Eric I’m wondering i got a 03 e329 benz when i go to break the car putters to a stop. I think it’s a engine mount or a tranny mount. What do you think it could be?
Thank you!
pretty sure that mount located on the bottom of the engine near the firewall is broken on my 99 accord but cant see down in there, asked a mechanic to inspect it when he did the brakes but when I came to collect the car some other dude was working the shop, and didn't know anything about the state of my car except my total to pay, didn't go there to get any more work done there again
The astute viewer will notice there wasn't any change in the amount of engine movement after the new mounts were installed.
What vehicles are the mounts from? Watching the video, I would replace all the mounts.
The following testing method is good for FWD cars with automatic gearbox. -> Apply the parking brake. Lift the front end at both sides and put jackstands. Start the car and put in drive or reverse . The drive wheels will start turning slowly . (!!!DO NOT ACCELERATE!!!) Press the brakes, while your assistant is looking for abnormal engine movement. Test both in Drive and Reverse.
Could bad engine mounts affect the steering feel ? Or give some alignement issues ?
yeah bad engine mount can cause alignment issues
@@floor_jack1441 thanks
Do you think you always should replace all mounts or just the one that looks like the issue?
Hi Eric. Do you prefer cordless battery tool to air tool? For cordless tool, do you prefer milwaukee vs dewalt? I want to get some battery powered tool for my diy, your advice is appreciated.
Good job
The sweet benefit of having a lift.
is it me or does the engine move MORE after the new mounts?
He'll be doing the job again soon
Wouldn’t jacking up either the engine or transmission pan to reduce the vibration noise coming from a mount be a good method to differentiate between the engine and transmission mount as the culprit for excessive vibration?
I hope that Patriot is better since it is under Fiat Chrysler (maybe slight changes idk). We had a 2008 that was junk. Horrible rot, electrical gremlins(parasitic drain, would loose turn signals and wipers sometimes maybe clock spring design), srs fault, transmission control short code, emissions code. And you couldn’t lube 1/2 of the rear caliper slide pins without removing the brake line. The CVT was slow and it would jerk at low speeds. Car was sold for $500 at 140k
for the first mount, i would flip the bolt to the other side which is blocked by the battery. my mechanic assembled wrongly a bolt (flip from the other side) and it took me an hour to remove it.
If you do go aftermarket and want the best then find out if any German company makes mounts for your car such as Febi for example!
I started connecting my jump-pack to the battery cables before disconnecting them so I don’t lose all the memory stuff