Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below) Thermopile Honeywell 750 Millivolt - amzn.to/2Ru68Ud UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3 Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9 Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4 FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6 Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8 QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8 Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf \Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb 15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg Other tool links can be found in the video description section. Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Lots of technicians have knowledge and ability, but can't convey it to others very well! Sir, you are the man! Thank you, I learn so much from your presentations, one and all!
You just saved us a ton of money! My parent's hot water heater quit working and the pilot wouldn't stay lit. Replaced the thermocouple and still the same. Figured it was the gas valve which couldn't be replaced so my dad was on his way to get a new tank. Watched this and saw the thermo disk can be reset, sure enough that was it! Thank you!
Do you teach at a vocational school? I've been in the trade for 35 years and find you to be an excellent instructor. I couldn't do a better job myself.👍🏻👍🏻🔥
Hey Steven, I did yes. I have been putting a book together on refrigerant handling and been working on trying to finish that since teaching at the end of last school year, thanks
Your working model setup is absolutely the best on the web at educating people interested in dealing with issues associated with this particular gas water heater control‼️Thanks for making it available👍
Amazing video thank you. I feel fortunate that this is the same model I have. Most videos I see cover a non integrated thermocouple setup. And for only like $40 you can replace the entire pilot assembly to basically rule out 90% of problems you described. Thanks a bunch!
I changed out a thermopile and my WH still wouldn’t fire up. I finally found a video that highlighted the importance of installing the thermopile all the way in. What I thought was all the way in due to hitting against a cover was not. I reinstalled the thermopile all the way in after loosening a screw the initial video never mentioned. The result of the correct installation of the TP, was a working hot water heater. Thanks for the info here you provided, I’m sure it will help some..
All these years I never knew how a thermocouple or thermopile worked. I only looked it up because I saw the flashing light on some water heaters and was wondering how the light got its power. Very ingenious concept.
Old style manual valves work without issues, some for decades. Modern systems like this are problematic garbage it seems judging by comments online. The "energy savings" of these Honeywell garbage units are gobbled up by replacement costs as failures are common. Progress? Nope.
Thank you for this video, I now know that I have the proper milivoltage going back to the board but my pilot light will not stay on. So I’m thinking the problem is the gas valve, actually just the board that is in the gas valve assembly. Thank you again.
Nice work. Was just checking on what you had for MV readings with pilot on. Had another today, the Honeywell valve acting up. So far it's been valves and not the power piles on all of mine. Prior to these power pile valves so they can have a pretty blinking light I think I replaced ten water heater gas valves in thirty some years.
I just opened up my water heater burner and turned it out just like you have it. I cleaned everything on it after that,,, I fired it up and worked perfectly !!!! However after making installation it acted up again. Would not stay on. So I took screws off and pulled assembly about 1/2” and it WORKED !! So my problem is ==== lack of air in the housing burner.
GREAT Video. There's one thing I'd like to add: Thermopiles operate by the temperature *DIFFERENCE* between the ends of the tube. If the "hot" end is perhaps 1000F, the "cold" end (where the cable comes out) may be 400F, which is fine. I just finished correcting a problem on an old natural convection floor furnace. The last person to work on it located the pilot assembly too high up, so that the main burner flame impinged on the center of the thermopile tube, leading to low output and premature failure. Another test you could do is to put your DMM on the thermopile while it's disconnected from the control valve. Light the pilot and hold the valve open manually to see what the peak output reaches. I "assume" this should be close to 750 mV...???
Great video, Craig. Coming from the old school water heaters where you lit a piece of newspaper to light the pilot, I understand the reason but hate the piezo igniters. That little window they give you is almost worthless to see what is happening at the burner/pilot. Had a funny/nerve wracking thing happen years ago...the gas company decided to add a new lock-out valve to my gas main. We went to the movies before they arrived. They never notified us about this prior. After they were done, they left the valve off and put a tag around my door knob to let me know I had to turn it on and re-light any pilots ( I had water heater, furnace and stove.). When we returned from the movies, the tag had blown off the door knob and we never saw it. About a half hour later I heard “hon, there’s no hot water!” I went to check the water heater...not lit...after laying on the concrete floor trying to light the pilot with no success for a few minutes, I yelled up “turn the stove on!” “It won’t light!” Went upstairs, discovered no gas coming from stove burners, went outside, saw new valve in closed position, turn on and re-lit all pilots...and about a week later found the tag in the bushes next to the door. Ugh.
Jack, would you be willing to write a quick 1 to 2 sentence testimonial in reference to my HVACR teaching ability in school or online, questions answered, or the content that I have put out to date? I may display this under the book section, Q & A section or another section of my new the website. This new website, acservicetech.com should be up and running early next week. No hard feelings if you are unable to. I appreciate it! This could be replied here or emailed at info@acservicetech.com thanks a lot Jack!
Thank you for your video. You are a very knowledgeable man. My issue is that my water heater is over heating. At the lowest setting "LOW", the water temperature is still measured to be 140F (should be 105F at LOW and 120F at HIGH). This is a 50 Gallon AO Smith LP gas water heater, 4 years old. A plumber was called in and he replaced the Honeywell LP Gas Controller. It's been for two days after the controller replacement and the hot water is still burning hot on the "LOW" setting. Called the plumber and he says he is out of trick. What could it be? Thanks!
I bought this water heater ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
The best water heater video ever! thumb up for this demonstration of the inner working of a water heater in a open demo of the workings. Helped me get my water heater back to working order. THANKS!! THUMBS UP!
Every video has so much information. I watch your videos and always learn something new. When someone aska a question about ac I always recomend your channel. Thank you for all your videos.
Awesome! Sometimes customers asking to check the water heater. Now I'm totally know how it's made. Pretty same technology, wall heater, fireplace, old-fashioned furnace millivolt gas valve. Thank you!)
Absolutely the best video on this topic! Thank you. I did notice the LED started flashing once when the solenoid pulled in, and then twice once the main burner was ready to ignite. So I assume its just measuring millivolts from the thermopile.
@@acservicetechchannel what if I changed out the thermopile igniter and pilot tube as a unit and I turn pilot on and hold the button but never get status light to come on. As soon as I let go of pilot button the pilot goes out.
Great video. I feel confident that I should be able to check this now to see what the problem is. If I get to something I can't handle I can then get a professional.
Thanks for the great video. Can you explain how to test for a leak at the gas line ferrule connection at the pilot without having an external working model like you have in this video. Testing all external connections is straight forward, but I don't understand how to test this internal connection at the pilot in the field? Any suggestions?
Thank you for clear explanation, i have similar problem, i got the right burner set from the supplier, everything new, but the flame is still not staying lit when i release the pilot. I gave them the right model and serial. So why is it still not staying on? (Again i must confirm that it is a whole new burner set not just the thermopile) Thank you
I have the same problem. I think it's the solenoid/gas valve that is bad. I can light the pilot and I'm getting enough DCMV, but the pilot just dies when I let off the pilot knob.
@@jhanczaryk5766 no problem. But I want to tell you that I still tried to replace the thermocouple first, and since it was new but didn’t work, then I knew it’s the valve.
Man great video. I'm a little confused between the Thermopile and the thermocouple. They seem to function the same what is the difference between the two?
The thermocouple is just one dissimilar metal junction that produces 30mv with a certain amount of heat where as the thermopile is a bunch of junctions equaling up to 750mv with a certain amount of heat. The 750mv and 750mv gas valve was used on older floor furnaces and is used on systems that are not ac powered such as fireplaces, freestanding stoves, water heaters and some furnaces. Then 30mv is used primarily on water heaters along with the 30mv gas valve. Thanks Tarik!
Hey, I have this same setup, and the pilot will light but the solenoid won’t click and hold. Is this the Thermopile that is bad? The light blinks like it’s ready on the controller but once I quit pressing the button, the flame goes out every time. Appreciate any help!
I have the same issue as you. Have you tried replacing the valve? I'm thinking my solenoid is not sticking. I get the pilot but as soon as I release the knob, the pilot dies
@@jhanczaryk5766 Yes I was getting the same issue. A temporary fix was to put leads on the 3 pins under the cover (bottom ground and top two are hot). I used a AAA battery to engage the valve, then it would work for a time before shutting off. I think we need to replace the whole valve thought. This method stopped working after 5ish times. I couldn't get the pilot to stay on either, not unless I used this trick.
I have a Whirlpool water heater that the status light doesn't come on. I have 720 mV at terminals on control valve, but valve solenoid doesn't engage. I have replaced the Control Valve module, but does the same thing. Any advice would be appreciated.
Very informative Video！ Great info for me the homeowner to understand my water heater. My question is mine only gets around 410 mv. For the past week, my pilot is turned off a few times by itself. Looks like i should replace my thermopile, right? Is the thermopile you listed below a universal model that works for different brand water heater as long as it has this Honeywell gas valve controller? BTW, I got a wrong part ( thermocouple) today, and i am going to return it and get a correct thermopile.
I was checking a Honeywell controller-burner combo. Despite holding the pilot solenoid in to keep the pilot flame burning and having a reading of 270 mV, the pilot wouldn’t remain lit (I had to hold the pilot solenoid in to keep a pilot flame). Although the indicator lights flashed twice (indicating low thermopile voltage), is it possible that the gas control valve was bad, or the control board is faulty?
This was exactly my issue as well. I replaced thermopile with brand new one, and still have same issue. Although there is no longer a double flash from indicator light.
I have the exact same setup, pilot light lights but voltage stops climbing about 150mv. If I unplug the thermopile from the gas valve assembly then it climbs to about 600mv. Hoping its the thermopile, going to replace it today. Thanks for the great video!
I replaced it and the pilot stayed lit and burner stays on. So it appears the thermopile can definately put out proper voltage when disconnected from the gas valve assembly and still not have enough power to keep the solenoid open when plugged into the Honeywell unit! Thanks again learned a lot through this ordeal.
Pilot went out today, AO Smith with honeywell, went and bought thermocouple and ended up I needed thermopile , reassembled everything after cleaning old thermopile and pilot would light but wouldn't let me turn up temp
Isn't there a high temperature cut off Thermo cut off inside the valve that sticks into the water heater tank? Or is that not needed anymore since you have that thermopile safety thing down on the burner chamber plate? So the tank has it's thermal cutoff and the burner chamber has a separate thermal cutoff and do you have to have both or you just need one? And if the valve has its own Hi temp, thermal cutoff, is that a one time cut off and you have to replace the valve then or have things changed and the high temperature thermo cutoff in the valve can reset itself with these new or updated valve versus the older valves?
You never explained why there is thermocouple. I thought the thermocouple was there to sense pilot light is lit. Thermopile is there to power the circuit board and solenoids. CORRECT????? This was a great demo .
Can the voltage be too high? Is there any way it can damage the valve? I am reading nearly 1000mV and the pilot still goes out when the button is released. I am now guessing that the valve is bad. It blinks twice indicating the voltage is too low. It is 10 years old. Can the circuit board be repaired or replaced or is it the solenoid coil open or the valve of the solenoid stuck? Usually a new thermopile will fix this, but not on this one. Thanks!
Man... This is a huge help. And you definitely know your craft. I am in such a pickle right now. 🤣 Don't suppose you'll field a question or two? Again, thank you.
If the thermopile gets wet is there any coming back from that? These thermopiles aren't available at my local hardware stores and the supply stores are closed today.
I have changed out thermopile but im still getting 2 blinks. I notice that the pilot has the flame at the end as normal but has another smaller flame at base of pilot tube. Is this normal and how can I fix this? I dont see anything wrong. And can this be causing low voltage?
The main gas supply line that gets attached to your thermostat what is suppose to be inside the tube just purchased a new burner assembly and there is a inner tube that is cut and crimped inside my main supply tube that goes to the orifice is this safe to install
Great video, it it's very common that customers ask if you can or know how to check the water heater or fireplace. I think they are very similar, milivolts gas valve. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for all the very detailed videos. I have learned a lot. 👍💪💩
Yeah fireplaces, freestanding stoves, water heaters, and some furnaces are powered with millivolts. It is a simple flame proving and system powering method, thanks J B!
I’ve watched this video several times and all the other troubleshooting videos and no one has an answer for my specific issue. The pilot light won’t stay lit when the temp is set high. Anything above medium low and the pilot light goes out when the burner shuts off. If the temp is set to medium low or below, it works fine forever. Seems to be a common issue with the Bradford white but no one has the solve for it or no one posts it.
Great detailed video! I'm currently having issues with this exact model. my boiler's pilot light keeps going out, the unit is in a rly small boiler room next to a separate furnace unit that heats base board radiator pipes. could not having enough ventilation/oxygen intake cause it to keep going out or is it more likely a specific part that needs to be cleaned/replaced? appreciate any advice~
That was a great video. I can find out very little about my five flash temperature sensor failure alert. A Rheem video shows the sensor near the burner assembly. I have an A.O. Smith water heater. A.O. Smith is of no help. Everyone says it needs a new gas valve but I can undo the thermopile and trick the water heater into making enough hotties water for my bath. Please advise. 😐
Hey Ron, On this version, the pilot and outlet gas pressure are non adjustable. The older style 30mv gas valves have an adjustment for the outlet pressure on the top. This one is also fixed at 10" wc and is stated on the side of the valve. Thanks Ron and Rocko99!
What do you troubleshoot for if it won’t light at all? I have gas being supplied to the controller but it won’t light at all and there is no flashing light on the box. I am holding down the pilot switch and pressing the igniter. Does that mean I have a faulty igniter?
I measured the voltage and it tops off at 600mv but the pilot light doesn’t stay on. I just replaced the controller and initial test it did stay on but controller was flashing 2 lights then 5 seconds off which indicates low mv, system will reset. After that, i could get pilot to stay on. This video pilot light triggers the solenoid at 200mv. I assume the thermopile needs to replaced?
A good educational video. I got the same parts, but in my case the temperature reaches 270mV and above (over 400 mV while I was keep pressing the knob). But as soon as I release the knob button, the pilot will not stay lit.The LED continues blinking for no more a minute and then shuts down (at the end it blinks twice and then pause 3 sec). Based on this explanation, it looks like the solenoid doesn't stay down. I afraid by changing thermocouple/thermopile (the entire set) won't make any difference and won't solve my problem. Maybe need to replace gas valve. Also in my case for some reason the flame is much larger (used to be small as it shown in this video). Any thoughts on further troubleshooting? Thanks!
I have a one year old Bradford White Defender. No hot water. The pilot lights immediately and stays lit. However when I turn the dial to hot, the burner does not light but the green status light blinks every second. Any ideas what it might be please
I recently had a valve/thermostat assembly fail, and it would have been great to know how much current it ought to draw in addition to the voltage the thermopile should produce. I tried setting up a bench power supply to a couple hundred mV, and powering the valve externally, and it drew over 500 mA at 750 mV, which I figured meant something shorted internally.
I have the same setup and the pilot starts a flame but I can’t get the burner to light. And I’m not getting any green light flash or anything? I’ve checked the voltage and it doesn’t go up when I hold down the pilot button
I fought mine all day, actually while learning the theory behind how it works. I am thinking my gas valve is bad now. I don't get any light at all on the controller. The thermopile works as it should.
Hello I have a Bradford white water heater that keeps turning off, already replaced thermostat but it keeps turning off do you know what wpuld be the reason?
I replaced the thermopile and the chip on the control. I can light the pilot by holding it but it will not stay lit no matter how high the voltage is. I don't understand.
Please help, we have not had hot water in one month. The water heater is in the attic. My husband replaced the thermocouple, and the burner assembly. He cleaned the air register. The pilot light will stay on forever when the burner is not on. When you turn the burner on and off the pilot stays lit. But when you leave the burner on both the pilot and the burner goes off after about 15 minutes.
The thermocouple only lets the controller know whether the pilot flame is on. So, how does it know the target water temperature has reached? Is it in the pipe connected to the body of the tank, which has direct contact with the water inside?
Tool List- www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
Support- www.patreon.com/acservicetech
For those that are looking for the tools used in the videos: (Linked Below)
Thermopile Honeywell 750 Millivolt - amzn.to/2Ru68Ud
UEI DL479 Multimeter with temp sensor amzn.to/2jtsUbJ
Magnet Jumpers- amzn.to/2PyKPQZ
Alligator Jumpers- amzn.to/2PxqJXn
Fieldpiece ST4 Dual Temp Meter amzn.to/2wc1ME3
Fieldpiece Bead K Type Temp Sensor amzn.to/2DBwKfs
Fieldpiece Wet Bulb Temp Sensor amzn.to/2RRI7Tw
Fieldpiece TC24 Temp Clamp amzn.to/2qHLyjZ
Yellow Jacket Refrigerant Gauge Set amzn.to/2aenwTq
Refrigerant hoses with valves amzn.to/2aBumVI
Yellow Jacket Gauge set & hoses amzn.to/2vLVkV9
Yellow Jacket 4 Port Manifold w Hoses amzn.to/2BkuGIq
FieldpieceSMAN360 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2BdoaD4
FieldpieceSMAN460 Digital Manifold Set amzn.to/2nB4Fe6
Compact Ball Valve for Refrigerant Hose amzn.to/2KUisW8
QuickDisconnect 90 for refrigerant hose amzn.to/2MMtVcg
JB 6 CFM Vacuum Pump amzn.to/2nqbvo8
Appion Blue 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYlVyc
Appion Red 3/8" to 1/4" Vacuum Hose amzn.to/2uYg6Ro
Appion Valve Core Removal Tool amzn.to/2uYr8WL
Yellow Jacket 1/4" by 1/4" hose amzn.to/2umtcod
CPS Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1nM3O
Supco Vacuum Micron Gauge amzn.to/2v1JRiA
RectorSeal Bubble Gas Leak Detector amzn.to/2ckWACn
UEI DL389 Multimeter amzn.to/2xAdaJf
\Air Acetylene Torch setup amzn.to/2aQalsb
15% Silver Brazing Rods amzn.to/2gVLyLc
Nitrogen Regulator amzn.to/2bXdR5f
Nitrogen Flow Meter amzn.to/2brvoBg
Other tool links can be found in the video description section.
Shop through Amazon! Your Purchases through Amazon provide a means for channels such as mine to earn advertising fees from all purchases after clicking through. Prices are the same as normal-
www.amazon.com/shop/acservicetech
I was able to diagnose and repair a HW heater because of this video....Thank you Craig (AC Service Tech)
Lots of technicians have knowledge and ability, but can't convey it to others very well! Sir, you are the man! Thank you, I learn so much from your presentations, one and all!
Thank you very much and make sure to check out the articles I wrote, the quizzes, calculators and the podcasts at www.acservicetech.com thanks!
You just saved us a ton of money! My parent's hot water heater quit working and the pilot wouldn't stay lit. Replaced the thermocouple and still the same. Figured it was the gas valve which couldn't be replaced so my dad was on his way to get a new tank. Watched this and saw the thermo disk can be reset, sure enough that was it! Thank you!
Which part exactly is the thermo disc?
I’m so glad you added this video, because thermopiles are different. Thanks, this is an excellent tutorial.
Rarely to I find exactly what I am looking for on the first UA-cam search. Thank you! This was perfect.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad the video was helpful!
Wonderful explanation! No filler; straight talk; best show and tell. Thank you!
Thanks a lot!
This man is the best technician around the world
Samuel, I am really glad that you enjoyed the video, thanks!
Do you teach at a vocational school? I've been in the trade for 35 years and find you to be an excellent instructor. I couldn't do a better job myself.👍🏻👍🏻🔥
Hey Steven, I did yes. I have been putting a book together on refrigerant handling and been working on trying to finish that since teaching at the end of last school year, thanks
@@acservicetechchannel I got a copy of your book and it's excellent. Thanks
Your working model setup is absolutely the best on the web at educating people interested in dealing with issues associated with this particular gas water heater control‼️Thanks for making it available👍
Glad to help Tom, thanks for letting me know!
I love this guy man. I wish I was your apprentice! Master craftsmen in this field!
Thank you very much Keo GG!
You really are great at explaining this
Amazing video thank you. I feel fortunate that this is the same model I have. Most videos I see cover a non integrated thermocouple setup. And for only like $40 you can replace the entire pilot assembly to basically rule out 90% of problems you described. Thanks a bunch!
Hello . Is the solenoid for the push button replaceable? My pilot cuts off when I release the button
I changed out a thermopile and my WH still wouldn’t fire up. I finally found a video that highlighted the importance of installing the thermopile all the way in. What I thought was all the way in due to hitting against a cover was not. I reinstalled the thermopile all the way in after loosening a screw the initial video never mentioned. The result of the correct installation of the TP, was a working hot water heater. Thanks for the info here you provided, I’m sure it will help some..
All these years I never knew how a thermocouple or thermopile worked. I only looked it up because I saw the flashing light on some water heaters and was wondering how the light got its power. Very ingenious concept.
Old style manual valves work without issues, some for decades. Modern systems like this are problematic garbage it seems judging by comments online. The "energy savings" of these Honeywell garbage units are gobbled up by replacement costs as failures are common. Progress? Nope.
totally agree.... complete crap... the gas valves go bad just as often too
Very good and compact unit. Fits well under the sink and provides IMMEDIATE hot water!!
Thank you for this video, I now know that I have the proper milivoltage going back to the board but my pilot light will not stay on. So I’m thinking the problem is the gas valve, actually just the board that is in the gas valve assembly. Thank you again.
Nice work. Was just checking on what you had for MV readings with pilot on. Had another today, the Honeywell valve acting up. So far it's been valves and not the power piles on all of mine. Prior to these power pile valves so they can have a pretty blinking light I think I replaced ten water heater gas valves in thirty some years.
I just opened up my water heater burner and turned it out just like you have it. I cleaned everything on it after that,,, I fired it up and worked perfectly !!!! However after making installation it acted up again. Would not stay on. So I took screws off and pulled assembly about 1/2” and it WORKED !! So my problem is ==== lack of air in the housing burner.
GREAT Video. There's one thing I'd like to add: Thermopiles operate by the temperature *DIFFERENCE* between the ends of the tube. If the "hot" end is perhaps 1000F, the "cold" end (where the cable comes out) may be 400F, which is fine. I just finished correcting a problem on an old natural convection floor furnace. The last person to work on it located the pilot assembly too high up, so that the main burner flame impinged on the center of the thermopile tube, leading to low output and premature failure. Another test you could do is to put your DMM on the thermopile while it's disconnected from the control valve. Light the pilot and hold the valve open manually to see what the peak output reaches. I "assume" this should be close to 750 mV...???
Great video, Craig. Coming from the old school water heaters where you lit a piece of newspaper to light the pilot, I understand the reason but hate the piezo igniters. That little window they give you is almost worthless to see what is happening at the burner/pilot. Had a funny/nerve wracking thing happen years ago...the gas company decided to add a new lock-out valve to my gas main. We went to the movies before they arrived. They never notified us about this prior. After they were done, they left the valve off and put a tag around my door knob to let me know I had to turn it on and re-light any pilots ( I had water heater, furnace and stove.). When we returned from the movies, the tag had blown off the door knob and we never saw it. About a half hour later I heard “hon, there’s no hot water!” I went to check the water heater...not lit...after laying on the concrete floor trying to light the pilot with no success for a few minutes, I yelled up “turn the stove on!” “It won’t light!” Went upstairs, discovered no gas coming from stove burners, went outside, saw new valve in closed position, turn on and re-lit all pilots...and about a week later found the tag in the bushes next to the door. Ugh.
Ha ha that's horrible, nice, thanks Jack!
Jack, would you be willing to write a quick 1 to 2 sentence testimonial in reference to my HVACR teaching ability in school or online, questions answered, or the content that I have put out to date? I may display this under the book section, Q & A section or another section of my new the website. This new website, acservicetech.com should be up and running early next week. No hard feelings if you are unable to. I appreciate it! This could be replied here or emailed at info@acservicetech.com thanks a lot Jack!
As a licensed G1. Excellent video!
Thank you for your video. You are a very knowledgeable man.
My issue is that my water heater is over heating. At the lowest setting "LOW", the water temperature is still measured to be 140F (should be 105F at LOW and 120F at HIGH). This is a 50 Gallon AO Smith LP gas water heater, 4 years old. A plumber was called in and he replaced the Honeywell LP Gas Controller. It's been for two days after the controller replacement and the hot water is still burning hot on the "LOW" setting. Called the plumber and he says he is out of trick. What could it be? Thanks!
I bought this water heater ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx8G49mV71sAzUl9shXyLW-r3XgHH9EVh1 for use in my bus conversion. I installed it under my kitchen sink and it is fed by a high efficiency on-demand LP water heater. It is both a backup hot water source as well as a water saving device since we have hot water on demand rather than having to wait for the gas on demand water heater to finish its ignition cycle. I decided on this water heater due to the fact that it only draws 1300watts when it's ON instead of the 1500 watts that most Water heaters this size draw. In an RV a couple hundred watts can be a big deal. With very low standby losses, I don't have to worry about excessive power consumption. When propane is not available for our gas water heater, in conjunction with our low flow shower head there is enough hot water available to shower, albeit we won't be taking "hotel showers." Also very happy with the recovery rate of this water heater. Granted, it is quite small, but it does exactly what we need it to do.
The best water heater video ever! thumb up for this demonstration of the inner working of a water heater in a open demo of the workings. Helped me get my water heater back to working order. THANKS!! THUMBS UP!
Glad to help William!
Every video has so much information. I watch your videos and always learn something new. When someone aska a question about ac I always recomend your channel. Thank you for all your videos.
Awesome! Sometimes customers asking to check the water heater. Now I'm totally know how it's made. Pretty same technology, wall heater, fireplace, old-fashioned furnace millivolt gas valve. Thank you!)
Glad to help, thanks Tapch MC!
Craig, as usual another great clear instruction video by a knowledgeable technician . Keep up the great work Cheers!!
Thanks a lot Paul!
Very thorough , educational and beneficial as usual !
Hope you had a good Christmas Craig !
Happy New Year
Yes it was a Very Nice Christmas, thanks Thomas! Happy New Year coming up!
Absolutely the best video on this topic! Thank you. I did notice the LED started flashing once when the solenoid pulled in, and then twice once the main burner was ready to ignite. So I assume its just measuring millivolts from the thermopile.
Yes there is a board inside with a status LED, thanks Roger!
Quality information, thank you for sharing! Can you show us how you would do a maintenance on a water heater.
Danny, Thanks and Thanks for letting me know what you would like to see!
Craig's pyrotechnics.
Best shows on the internet hands down!
Yeah, controlling fire, it is what we are meant to do! ha ha! Thanks Tom!
Yes I agree. I dropped another site. Now I'm fully on board. This GENTLEMAN is the best in the feild to explain hvac work. Thank you sir.
Always glad to help Ray Ray!
@@acservicetechchannel what if I changed out the thermopile igniter and pilot tube as a unit and I turn pilot on and hold the button but never get status light to come on. As soon as I let go of pilot button the pilot goes out.
Great video. I feel confident that I should be able to check this now to see what the problem is. If I get to something I can't handle I can then get a professional.
You can do it!
Thank you sir!!! This video has helped me repair my water heater twice!!
Thanks for the great video. Can you explain how to test for a leak at the gas line ferrule connection at the pilot without having an external working model like you have in this video. Testing all external connections is straight forward, but I don't understand how to test this internal connection at the pilot in the field? Any suggestions?
Thanks a lot! Very helpful and informative.
Do you happen to know the parts number for the thermal switch shown on the video?
Thank you for clear explanation, i have similar problem, i got the right burner set from the supplier, everything new, but the flame is still not staying lit when i release the pilot.
I gave them the right model and serial. So why is it still not staying on? (Again i must confirm that it is a whole new burner set not just the thermopile)
Thank you
I have the same problem. I think it's the solenoid/gas valve that is bad. I can light the pilot and I'm getting enough DCMV, but the pilot just dies when I let off the pilot knob.
@@jhanczaryk5766 i ended up changing the control valve and it worked like magic.
@@gustavosh.5147 Awesome! I'm going to call around a few places tomorrow. If not, I will order online. Thank you for your time.
@@jhanczaryk5766 no problem. But I want to tell you that I still tried to replace the thermocouple first, and since it was new but didn’t work, then I knew it’s the valve.
@@gustavosh.5147 I replaced the valve. It worked
Man great video. I'm a little confused between the Thermopile and the thermocouple. They seem to function the same what is the difference between the two?
The thermocouple is just one dissimilar metal junction that produces 30mv with a certain amount of heat where as the thermopile is a bunch of junctions equaling up to 750mv with a certain amount of heat. The 750mv and 750mv gas valve was used on older floor furnaces and is used on systems that are not ac powered such as fireplaces, freestanding stoves, water heaters and some furnaces. Then 30mv is used primarily on water heaters along with the 30mv gas valve. Thanks Tarik!
Wow!!!! This is how instructional video's are supposed to be made!!! Very helpful and so well explained! Thank you!!!!!!!
Thank you very very much Brett!
Very good explanation. My problem is pilot stays on but burner will not stay on after 3 seconds. So it’s my thermopile???
Awesome Video. I used your tip on cleaning the thermopile with the steel wool. Worked like a charm and saved me money and Headache. Thank you sir.
Thanks John!
Very well made educational video. Just what I needed. Thank you!
Hey, I have this same setup, and the pilot will light but the solenoid won’t click and hold. Is this the Thermopile that is bad? The light blinks like it’s ready on the controller but once I quit pressing the button, the flame goes out every time.
Appreciate any help!
I have the same issue as you. Have you tried replacing the valve? I'm thinking my solenoid is not sticking. I get the pilot but as soon as I release the knob, the pilot dies
@@jhanczaryk5766 Yes I was getting the same issue. A temporary fix was to put leads on the 3 pins under the cover (bottom ground and top two are hot). I used a AAA battery to engage the valve, then it would work for a time before shutting off. I think we need to replace the whole valve thought. This method stopped working after 5ish times. I couldn't get the pilot to stay on either, not unless I used this trick.
@@brett5526 I replaced the valve today. Hot water!
That was really helpful. The setup to show what's happening is perfect. I am impressed. And thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!! You helped me get my unit backup and running. Thank you so much!!
I really learned alot watcing your explaination as to how the thermopile holds the solenoid open.
I have a Whirlpool water heater that the status light doesn't come on. I have 720 mV at terminals on control valve, but valve solenoid doesn't engage. I have replaced the Control Valve module, but does the same thing. Any advice would be appreciated.
Very informative Video！ Great info for me the homeowner to understand my water heater. My question is mine only gets around 410 mv. For the past week, my pilot is turned off a few times by itself. Looks like i should replace my thermopile, right? Is the thermopile you listed below a universal model that works for different brand water heater as long as it has this Honeywell gas valve controller?
BTW, I got a wrong part ( thermocouple) today, and i am going to return it and get a correct thermopile.
I was checking a Honeywell controller-burner combo.
Despite holding the pilot solenoid in to keep the pilot flame burning and having a reading of 270 mV, the pilot wouldn’t remain lit (I had to hold the pilot solenoid in to keep a pilot flame). Although the indicator lights flashed twice (indicating low thermopile voltage), is it possible that the gas control valve was bad, or the control board is faulty?
This was exactly my issue as well. I replaced thermopile with brand new one, and still have same issue. Although there is no longer a double flash from indicator light.
I would appreciate it if you would do a video like this with a thermocouple style water heater.
I though standing pilots were outlawed years ago. Aren't all gas appliances supposed to have electric ignitors now?
I have the exact same setup, pilot light lights but voltage stops climbing about 150mv. If I unplug the thermopile from the gas valve assembly then it climbs to about 600mv. Hoping its the thermopile, going to replace it today. Thanks for the great video!
I replaced it and the pilot stayed lit and burner stays on. So it appears the thermopile can definately put out proper voltage when disconnected from the gas valve assembly and still not have enough power to keep the solenoid open when plugged into the Honeywell unit! Thanks again learned a lot through this ordeal.
Thanks Tim!
Pilot went out today, AO Smith with honeywell, went and bought thermocouple and ended up I needed thermopile , reassembled everything after cleaning old thermopile and pilot would light but wouldn't let me turn up temp
Great video, used it to troubleshoot a friend's water tank issue (fouled thermopile).
Glad it helped
Isn't there a high temperature cut off Thermo cut off inside the valve that sticks into the water heater tank? Or is that not needed anymore since you have that thermopile safety thing down on the burner chamber plate? So the tank has it's thermal cutoff and the burner chamber has a separate thermal cutoff and do you have to have both or you just need one? And if the valve has its own Hi temp, thermal cutoff, is that a one time cut off and you have to replace the valve then or have things changed and the high temperature thermo cutoff in the valve can reset itself with these new or updated valve versus the older valves?
You never explained why there is thermocouple. I thought the thermocouple was there to sense pilot light is lit. Thermopile is there to power the circuit board and solenoids. CORRECT????? This was a great demo .
If you have to replace the just the Thermopile how do you remove it from the burner ?
Can the voltage be too high? Is there any way it can damage the valve? I am reading nearly 1000mV and the pilot still goes out when the button is released. I am now guessing that the valve is bad. It blinks twice indicating the voltage is too low. It is 10 years old. Can the circuit board be repaired or replaced or is it the solenoid coil open or the valve of the solenoid stuck? Usually a new thermopile will fix this, but not on this one. Thanks!
Man... This is a huge help. And you definitely know your craft. I am in such a pickle right now. 🤣
Don't suppose you'll field a question or two?
Again, thank you.
If the thermopile gets wet is there any coming back from that?
These thermopiles aren't available at my local hardware stores and the supply stores are closed today.
I have changed out thermopile but im still getting 2 blinks. I notice that the pilot has the flame at the end as normal but has another smaller flame at base of pilot tube. Is this normal and how can I fix this? I dont see anything wrong. And can this be causing low voltage?
The main gas supply line that gets attached to your thermostat what is suppose to be inside the tube just purchased a new burner assembly and there is a inner tube that is cut and crimped inside my main supply tube that goes to the orifice is this safe to install
Great video, it it's very common that customers ask if you can or know how to check the water heater or fireplace. I think they are very similar, milivolts gas valve. Please correct me if I am wrong. Thanks for all the very detailed videos. I have learned a lot. 👍💪💩
Yeah fireplaces, freestanding stoves, water heaters, and some furnaces are powered with millivolts. It is a simple flame proving and system powering method, thanks J B!
I’ve watched this video several times and all the other troubleshooting videos and no one has an answer for my specific issue. The pilot light won’t stay lit when the temp is set high. Anything above medium low and the pilot light goes out when the burner shuts off. If the temp is set to medium low or below, it works fine forever. Seems to be a common issue with the Bradford white but no one has the solve for it or no one posts it.
Great detailed video! I'm currently having issues with this exact model. my boiler's pilot light keeps going out, the unit is in a rly small boiler room next to a separate furnace unit that heats base board radiator pipes. could not having enough ventilation/oxygen intake cause it to keep going out or is it more likely a specific part that needs to be cleaned/replaced? appreciate any advice~
there is a natural bend at the end, how close should that pilot be to the main head... thanks
What us the purpose of the 270 degree resetable thermodisc?
That was a great video. I can find out very little about my five flash temperature sensor failure alert. A Rheem video shows the sensor near the burner assembly. I have an A.O. Smith water heater. A.O. Smith is of no help. Everyone says it needs a new gas valve but I can undo the thermopile and trick the water heater into making enough hotties water for my bath. Please advise. 😐
Great video thank you. Question can the gas pressure be adjusted?
Ron White
Yes the out let can be adjusted by a screw. U need to turn in to increase. Should be 3.5 wc outlet pressure for ng and 7 wc for lpg
@@RockoRocko-rz7kx thank you.
Hey Ron, On this version, the pilot and outlet gas pressure are non adjustable. The older style 30mv gas valves have an adjustment for the outlet pressure on the top. This one is also fixed at 10" wc and is stated on the side of the valve. Thanks Ron and Rocko99!
What do you troubleshoot for if it won’t light at all? I have gas being supplied to the controller but it won’t light at all and there is no flashing light on the box. I am holding down the pilot switch and pressing the igniter. Does that mean I have a faulty igniter?
Great! You just saved me 300+
Glad I could help!
Wow! Pretty clear tutorial. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great info!!! May god bless you!
I believe that style of gas valve control can be replaced without having to drain the water heater, unless the thermal bulb is bad inside.
EXCELLENTLY DONE
I measured the voltage and it tops off at 600mv but the pilot light doesn’t stay on. I just replaced the controller and initial test it did stay on but controller was flashing 2 lights then 5 seconds off which indicates low mv, system will reset. After that, i could get pilot to stay on. This video pilot light triggers the solenoid at 200mv. I assume the thermopile needs to replaced?
Mine has a connector (with a yellow and white wires) to the com plug. Any idea what this sensor is for?
Perfect video. Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!
Thanks!!! Very helpful
The red button on my thermo disc keeps piping out and shutting downs my water heater? Do you know what the solution is for this?
A good educational video. I got the same parts, but in my case the temperature reaches 270mV and above (over 400 mV while I was keep pressing the knob). But as soon as I release the knob button, the pilot will not stay lit.The LED continues blinking for no more a minute and then shuts down (at the end it blinks twice and then pause 3 sec). Based on this explanation, it looks like the solenoid doesn't stay down. I afraid by changing thermocouple/thermopile (the entire set) won't make any difference and won't solve my problem. Maybe need to replace gas valve. Also in my case for some reason the flame is much larger (used to be small as it shown in this video). Any thoughts on further troubleshooting? Thanks!
Did you try replacing the gas valve? I have the same issue as you. My mV goes up enough, but as soon as I release the knob. The pilot goes out.
@@jhanczaryk5766 Yes, I had to replace entire gas control unit. The solenoid that suppose to keep gas flowing was bad.
@@olekodundich1501 tyvm
I have a one year old Bradford White Defender. No hot water. The pilot lights immediately and stays lit. However when I turn the dial to hot, the burner does not light but the green status light blinks every second. Any ideas what it might be please
I recently had a valve/thermostat assembly fail, and it would have been great to know how much current it ought to draw in addition to the voltage the thermopile should produce. I tried setting up a bench power supply to a couple hundred mV, and powering the valve externally, and it drew over 500 mA at 750 mV, which I figured meant something shorted internally.
what if you can't get a flame? press the igniter no gas to ignite. is it the valve then?
Great video. Clear and easy to understand.
Excellent video.
Great explanation
Glad it was helpful!
Great information. Thanks for sharing
Thanks a lot Dean Martin 1966, I always appreciate your comments!
@@acservicetechchannel You're welcome
Excellent explanation and demo.
Thanks Tim!
Thanks for sharing your knowledge 👍
I have the same setup and the pilot starts a flame but I can’t get the burner to light. And I’m not getting any green light flash or anything? I’ve checked the voltage and it doesn’t go up when I hold down the pilot button
I fought mine all day, actually while learning the theory behind how it works. I am thinking my gas valve is bad now. I don't get any light at all on the controller. The thermopile works as it should.
Hello I have a Bradford white water heater that keeps turning off, already replaced thermostat but it keeps turning off do you know what wpuld be the reason?
I replaced the thermopile and the chip on the control. I can light the pilot by holding it but it will not stay lit no matter how high the voltage is. I don't understand.
Boss how to order bradfordwhite thermofile & thermo switch
excellent presentation!!!!! thank you !!!!
Glad you liked it!
Please help, we have not had hot water in one month. The water heater is in the attic. My husband replaced the thermocouple, and the burner assembly. He cleaned the air register. The pilot light will stay on forever when the burner is not on. When you turn the burner on and off the pilot stays lit. But when you leave the burner on both the pilot and the burner goes off after about 15 minutes.
Very informative, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
The thermocouple only lets the controller know whether the pilot flame is on. So, how does it know the target water temperature has reached? Is it in the pipe connected to the body of the tank, which has direct contact with the water inside?
Yes the temp sensor piped into the body of the water heater, thanks!