Water in for systemic prevention. Use surfactant with liquids for foliar application, when doing a curative rate. Combine 2 or 3 liquids. Mefenoxam is super expensive! Hard to keep a cycle of preventative applications going with that, but Pythium Bight is the most damaging of the funguses.
This was really great information. It explained a lot about what to use for which fungus. And, why to rotate them. But, I have something in my yard that is a bright yellow/orange color scattered through out, no particular pattern to it. I first thought it was poa dying out but it doesn't appear to be that. I am trying to identify and work on what to use.
Glad it was helpful overall. If what you have is a weed, I use an app called "PictureThis" and it does an excellent job of identifying things for me. If it's a fungus, i would put the description in Google and see what kicks out.
That´s a lot to keep track of, maybe it´s for the best that we cannot use fungicides anyways :D But I would really really liked to be able to use something in late fall against snow mold. Great video, awesome explanations!
I hate having to put on long pants. I wear cargo shorts almost year round. I found a pair of rubber boots at a local farm store. They're tall enough to come up to where my shorts end just below my knees. So I'm covered from any bad stuff. Plus it's easy to hose them off when done.
I have some rubber boots as well, but in the summer they are worse than long pants. they don't breathe and get so dang hot! If I use something especially harsh I wear them.
What setting was your spreader? No setting guide for the Scott’s Elite on the bag. The turf becoming immune to the same herbicide would take a lot of repetitive applications. Once or twice a year probably isn’t enough but always best to check with the manufacturer of the product.
I have a Spyker Spreader and it was at a 2.5 - 3.0. Not sure what the Scott's Elite would be. I agree that it would need to be repetitive to build immunity, but the guidelines are set for a reason and I believe it is better to be safe than sorry.
@@TheLawnShark Yes, good advice. I talked to the makers of Headway and Heritage G. They said it’s OK to mix the two products but Headway may be a little more broad of its application because it has two key ingredients versus one as in Heritage. Both fine products! One thing I know for sure, fungus is tough to get rid of and depending on the size of your yard, can get kind of pricey to manage as well!
Read the label, but most fungicides can be applied at the time of seeding. In any case, apply the fungicide as soon as the labels says you can because of the level of watering you will be doing.
It's about 1 fluid ounce per 1000 sf of applied area. The water is just the delivery system. What I do is 1 gallon of water mixed with 1 ounce of Mefenoxam per 1000 sf of grass. You could do 2 gallons of water, but it will still only be enough product for 1000 sf. For my front lawn I will do 2 gallons of water and 2 ounces of mefenoxam and that takes care of my whole front lawn. Hope this helps.
Great video Dino. Well explained . The only thing I would mention and I learned this the hard way was that Disease Ex does not treat Dollar Spot. I have always used both Disease Ex and BioAdvanced thinking I would rotate them for better prevention and still ended up with Dollar Spot. Then I learned that Disease Ex does not treat or prevent it. 🤷♂🤦♂#GOYANKEES
That is good to know! I thought Azoxystrobin was good for Dollar Spot, which is what is in Disease EX, but I have seen that Propconizole is more effective. Thanks for jumping in Keith! #GOYANKEES
@@TheLawnShark Bag label for future reference Use to control the following diseases: Brown Patch, Stem & Stripe Rust, Red Thread, Powdery Mildew, Anthracnose, Pythium, Southern & Typhula Blight, Leafspot, Pink Patch, Necrotic Ring Spot, Summer Patch, Fusarium Patch, Gray Leafspot, Leaf Rust, Melting Out, Yellow Patch, Rhizoctonia Large Patch, Fairy Ring, Gray & Pink Snow Mold, Pythium Root Rot, Spring Dead Spot, Take-All Patch and Zoysia Patch.
Some problems with fungus in the lawn is when you re seed your lawn use the exact seed you use in previous season. By mixing different seed it does give enough time to be fungus resistant. I been using the same seed the same cultivar that I used in the pass. Now I get very little fungus, but I do put down some fungicide early about July and I hardly get any fungus.
4:02 Azoxystrobin is not a good choice for dollar spot but will help against many other fungi, Propiconazole is though.
Agreed. Which is why I used Propiconazole to treat the dollar spot.
Never relized how much work having a nice lawn takes growing up. Always that it was just water and mow man I was wrong
Nothing wrong with Mowing and watering. If you want something more, then it just requires more work. But sometimes green is good, and that's ok.
Thank you for EXCELLENT info!
Glad it was helpful!
Great info. Thanks for the breakdown of products and explanations.
Glad it was helpful!
Water in for systemic prevention. Use surfactant with liquids for foliar application, when doing a curative rate. Combine 2 or 3 liquids. Mefenoxam is super expensive! Hard to keep a cycle of preventative applications going with that, but Pythium Bight is the most damaging of the funguses.
Thanks.
This was really great information. It explained a lot about what to use for which fungus. And, why to rotate them. But, I have something in my yard that is a bright yellow/orange color scattered through out, no particular pattern to it. I first thought it was poa dying out but it doesn't appear to be that. I am trying to identify and work on what to use.
Glad it was helpful overall. If what you have is a weed, I use an app called "PictureThis" and it does an excellent job of identifying things for me. If it's a fungus, i would put the description in Google and see what kicks out.
Well this is perfect timing for me!
Hope it helps!
Great insight brother! About to hit the humid 90s here in Indiana near Chicago.
That is the perfect time for disease for sure!
That´s a lot to keep track of, maybe it´s for the best that we cannot use fungicides anyways :D
But I would really really liked to be able to use something in late fall against snow mold. Great video, awesome explanations!
HAHA! Not sure how you guys do it without the use of fungicides. Thanks buddy!
I hate having to put on long pants. I wear cargo shorts almost year round. I found a pair of rubber boots at a local farm store. They're tall enough to come up to where my shorts end just below my knees. So I'm covered from any bad stuff. Plus it's easy to hose them off when done.
I have some rubber boots as well, but in the summer they are worse than long pants. they don't breathe and get so dang hot! If I use something especially harsh I wear them.
@@TheLawnShark Yeah, that's the bad thing. I have about half a gallon of water pour out when I take them off.
What setting was your spreader? No setting guide for the Scott’s Elite on the bag.
The turf becoming immune to the same herbicide would take a lot of repetitive applications. Once or twice a year probably isn’t enough but always best to check with the manufacturer of the product.
I have a Spyker Spreader and it was at a 2.5 - 3.0. Not sure what the Scott's Elite would be.
I agree that it would need to be repetitive to build immunity, but the guidelines are set for a reason and I believe it is better to be safe than sorry.
@@TheLawnShark Yes, good advice. I talked to the makers of Headway and Heritage G. They said it’s OK to mix the two products but Headway may be a little more broad of its application because it has two key ingredients versus one as in Heritage. Both fine products!
One thing I know for sure, fungus is tough to get rid of and depending on the size of your yard, can get kind of pricey to manage as well!
@@stevehiner7392 Indeed. I spend more time and money worrying about it than just about anything else.
So I'm getting ready to over seed and will be watering a lot do I need to put down fungicides at time of sseding.
Read the label, but most fungicides can be applied at the time of seeding. In any case, apply the fungicide as soon as the labels says you can because of the level of watering you will be doing.
I’m so confused on mefenoxam ratio. How much should i mix into 1 gallon of water for 1000 sqft?
It's about 1 fluid ounce per 1000 sf of applied area. The water is just the delivery system. What I do is 1 gallon of water mixed with 1 ounce of Mefenoxam per 1000 sf of grass. You could do 2 gallons of water, but it will still only be enough product for 1000 sf. For my front lawn I will do 2 gallons of water and 2 ounces of mefenoxam and that takes care of my whole front lawn. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. 😊
My pleasure!
Thanks for the info
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Dino. Well explained . The only thing I would mention and I learned this the hard way was that Disease Ex does not treat Dollar Spot. I have always used both Disease Ex and BioAdvanced thinking I would rotate them for better prevention and still ended up with Dollar Spot. Then I learned that Disease Ex does not treat or prevent it. 🤷♂🤦♂#GOYANKEES
That is good to know! I thought Azoxystrobin was good for Dollar Spot, which is what is in Disease EX, but I have seen that Propconizole is more effective. Thanks for jumping in Keith! #GOYANKEES
@@TheLawnShark Bag label for future reference
Use to control the following diseases: Brown Patch, Stem & Stripe Rust, Red Thread, Powdery Mildew, Anthracnose, Pythium, Southern & Typhula Blight, Leafspot, Pink Patch, Necrotic Ring Spot, Summer Patch, Fusarium Patch, Gray Leafspot, Leaf Rust, Melting Out, Yellow Patch, Rhizoctonia Large Patch, Fairy Ring, Gray & Pink Snow Mold, Pythium Root Rot, Spring Dead Spot, Take-All Patch and Zoysia Patch.
Yep! Keith, you taught me that and you were spot on.
Some problems with fungus in the lawn is when you re seed your lawn use the exact seed you use in previous season. By mixing different seed it does give enough time to be fungus resistant. I been using the same seed the same cultivar that I used in the pass. Now I get very little fungus, but I do put down some fungicide early about July and I hardly get any fungus.
Good to know!
Brother are you in canada?
No, I am in Nashville Tennessee