Absolutely Genius. I only have one double hung window with 102 year year old putty on my garage and I'm going to use this method. I did not want to use a heat gun and break the glass. THANKS
This totally worked! I took out the old cheap Wagner wallpaper stripper (that never really stripped wallpaper well once it all went to vinyl) and used it just exactly like this guy did. Just aimed the hose at the rock hard 40 year old putty, and "Voila"!!!!! I can't remember being more excited about a DIY video! Two days ago this job looked impossible! Thank you, Mr Whatever, Thank you UA-cam ........ and thank you to my wonderful sister-in-law, who lent us her wallpaper steamer about 25 years ago, and told my wife not to give it back. :) My suggestion to those of you who don't own a steamer. Buy one used. There are a whole lot of people who've had them in storage forever, and they'd be happy to sell it to you for five bucks or so. If you have lots of putty to soften, it would even be worth it to buy a cheap one new. This completely takes care of the problem!
Hey I'm glad you found this and it helped! And I agree if you don't on a steamer device it's worth it not just for this or wallpaper. I've used mine for over a decade to remove not just wallpaper but cleaning things, removing paint from odd items. It's simple but effective.
I swear to god, this is the best youtube advice I've got. The wife and I acquired 5 windows, 6 panes each, commercial windows of steel frames with thick wired privacy glass. The wired glass was exactly what she has been looking for to do another project. I bought a used steamer on ebay and we have been steaming away. It takes some time, but then all of a sudden, the glass just falls out. Terrific! We are almost done removing all the individual lites. Well worth the $25 for a used steamer.
Well I INVENTED the method to remove a tub drain....put the grinding disc on the Dremel tool ....remove the drain screen....lower the dremel disc (At Horizontal) into the drain....and move the disc slowly around the drain tube...pressing further and further into the tube wall....then BING ! the pipe drops down and the collar lifts up....READY for Drain replacement :o)
I've watched dozens of DIY videos for re-glazing windows; this one is easily the most helpful. Thanks for saving me what would have been weeks of work re-glazing 14 wood sash windows with 56 total panes of glass. I do wish I'd known about this method when restoring the picture window in a nearly 100 year old house back in '99. It was 52 panes of glass, each about 12"H x 9"W in a 13Wx4H configuration. It was strikingly beautiful, but a real headache to re-glaze while on a step-ladder. I was heartbroken when the new owners tore it out and installed 3 vinyl sash windows in its place.
I wish I had seen this video BEFORE I removed glazing the hard way from 18 window frames! I'll definitely try it for the other 24! Thank you for sharing.
This was so incredibly helpful. I just did a job for someone after watching this and it worked a charm. Three cracked panes removed from very old windows in just a few hours, unlike the many hours I've spent in the past chipping away with a chisel. Thank you.
My wife and I just bought a house from the 50s, and the inspectors told us to replace all the window putty. We were pretty nervous about it, but after watching this video we picked up a steamer on craigslist and can't wait to try!
I have a couple of antique doors that needed window panes replaced and after watching this video I ordered one of these units from Amazon for $60 and wow! Works exactly as you show here. Fast and clean removal of the old glazing with no cracking of the glass. Thanks for the tip!
A lot of my glazing was coming off by hand it was so old but a few spots are stick stuck on there and my windows feel so fragile. Going to grab my steamer right now!! Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! It was great of you to make this video! I used to have a steamer but got rid of it since it didn't work as expected. I'm going to look for a steamer with a hose like the one you showed. You saved me lots of work. I'm replacing a small window that got broken, so there's no glass and may try an old steam iron while I wait for the steamer to arrive.
Great video. I used a heavy duty box cutter to cut into the meat of the window glaze first. It was just to let the steam get between the window glaze and window a bit faster.
I did this to wood frame windows made in 1956 that were part of the house when it was new. 64 year old spackle or glazing was hard as quartz rocks. I did this to 6 windows about the same size in the video and it took me 4 hours. No cracked glass!
This is a pretty good trick and was working ok but slow on my 14 pane window from 1921. After finishing one pane it gave me the idea to try a heat gun which worked even better for my window without all the drippy water mess.
This was gold! I didn't have a steamer, so I made do with hot water from my coffee maker. For the top edge, I folded a washcloth rag into a long strip, and laid that across a piece of wood and wet it and pushed it against the glazing. I did this twice and the putty just softened right up!
Thank you so much.. I'm taking the putty out of a 1930's door. I've just stripped my house of chip paper with my wallpaper steamer..i''ve researched this before.. Never seen your video till now.. yep mine was about £20.00 from screwfix. Awsome peice of kit. Cheers mate. Kent.UK
Thank you for sharing this! I am glazing for the first time and without the wallpaper steamer, I would have surely broken glass by now since it was rock hard! Took much less time also! May be able to finish (starting in September in Midwest!)!
I wish I would have seen this video before I removed the glazing from a window from the 1800's! I used a screwdriver and hammer to chip tiny pieces away. This looks like the perfect method!
I could not find my steam heater so I used my hot air soldering gun and just set it for 212 deg. Worked like a charm. Controlled heat is the key here. Thank you for the idea though!
Nice. Yes controlled heat is a very good way to put it. Those typical hot air guns can be a bit too....wild. I really want a hot air soldering gun for reflowing but I can't commit to such until I have a bit more space for more toys.
Johnp82 : I missed one little arrow shaped steel nib to hold the glass in place and when I used the quick drying (caulking gun type) it cracked right at that place where the nib was. The caulk gun glazing sucks ass.
I picked up a wallpaper steamer. Confirmed it works. Also, it appears that these wallpaper steamers are the same base unit that are used for wood steaming kits so I can easily use the same unit to wood bending!
You can use that steamer for all sorts of stuff is what I've found. The best tools are the ones you use for many different completely unrelated things.
God bless you!!!! I've been having such a hard time trying to get this done. In new to this kind of work and I was literally struggling and crying because it was so difficult and long. But you just helped me out a ton. Blessings to you.
You can use a wet towel and a clothing iron if you do not have a steamer at hand. This consentrates the heat and steam to the putty area only. But as you say, this is the way to go.
As I did I think you saw the video with the steam cabinet but that's something we don't have and the logical next question was: what about using a steamer? Thank you for trying and showing it. I have 6 French windows to do.
It works great. Let the steam do the work. Don't bend or pry or push on the caulk until it's nice and hot. Tackle small section at one time, run the putty knife blade from corner to corner, that way you will not apply any bending stresses to the glass and cause it to break (it is supported by the rabbet cut in the frame, supporting the glass). Hold the steam end within an inch of the caulk/glazing compound. Watch out, the steam will burn you it you have any bare skin! DO NOT GET IN A HURRY! DO NOT BECOME IMPATIENT TO SEE THE GLAZING COMPOUND/CAULK BREAK AWAY FROM THE FRAME, IT ONLY LEADS TO BROKEN GLASS! DON'T FIGHT THE GLAZER'S POINTS OR SMALL NAILS BURRIED UNDERNEATH, JUST REMOVE THE SPAKLE/GLAZING COMPOUND AROUND THEM AND REMOVE THEM LATER! WORK SAFE, WORK SMART! Update: after all the spackle is removed run the square corner of the putty knife blade down the lip, corner to corner. Where you feel a bump is where the glazier’s points are holding the glass in the window frame. Concentrate the heat/steam on that spot and dig a little with a small sharp knife or screwdriver to expose the glazier’s point. Grab the point with a needle nose pliers and pull put the point. This step is if you have to remove the glass which I did because it was broken. Be sure to put multiple layers of tape on the glass beforehand to control where the broken glass goes and not everywhere.
Very helpful. Red Devil and Fletcher used to make a plug in hand held device called a putty softener. The closest thing I’ve found to it is a charcoal starter for the bbq, Just hold on glazing 20 seconds and it melts putty back to a semi plastic state where it can be removed.I would never use it indoors. Brian Manne
Super grateful for this tip & all your work posting. I clocked you @ 85 seconds (1:25-2:50) on a 23" section? Is this real time or did U edit out some footage? Our 1924 house has a lot of windows with rock hard cracked glazing, so we'll be trying your method with the warming of Wisconsin soon. Many thanks. FYI readers, Sarco window putties come very highly recommended for the replacement.
Awesome video thanks! Someone was trying to tell me to get new windows but honestly there’s nothing wrong with my windows except the glazing. They are not letting draft in at all so I’m just gonna do it myself. Again thanks!!!
Is it the heat or the moisture or both that effect the easy removal of old glaze? What is the temperature of the water vapor at the outlet? Does the glazing have to rock hard for this method to work? I’ve always used a heat shield to keep heat from a propane torch from over heating the glass and if careful that seems to work but takes much longer on rock hard glaze than it does on glaze that is still serviceable.
Ive restored 5 windows with 12 panes per window. I got most of the glazing out with a sharp utility knife once i figured out the correct angle of attack. The rest i used a harbor freight heat gun with a wide attachment thats build perfectly for glazing.
$$$ & super messy, also most strippers have temperature, wind & sun exposure limitations that are quite specific. Been doing this for months, trust me.
I gotta try that... I wonder if they rent those? Didn't have a steamer but I did have a tea kettle. Since the window is laying on my bench, I just poured hot water on it and let it soak, so much easier. I wish I had seen this first.
Now how long do you have to let the wood dry using this process vs mechanical removal? I have a McCulloch steamer that would be perfect for this, but now is my primer going to stick?
I mean it dries out fairly quick. A day perhaps maybe two depending on the humidity? It doesn't really soak the wood so much it just provides enough heat and steam to break the bond.
Yes I think anything you could get to put steam out to a localized area would work well. Sorry it took so long to find. I know the pain of finding a solution after the fact.
I accidentally filled all the knot holes in the lumber I bought for a new bed with Glazo, a window glazing used to fill holes .I learned the hard way this stuff isn't wood filler it's putty and it DOESN'T HARDEN! Not sure what to do.
My handyman spent 12 hours scraping glazing off metal window with 20 panes. For which he will go be paid. Will this work for metal windows? I have another window that needs doing.
It should. You're not going to melt the frames with the level of heat that is produced. Just soften the caulk or glazing so the glass can be removed or the caulk replaced.
Nice job if you got the hot air gun to work. As I'm sure you've read in the comments a lot of people have trouble with that route. Hence why so many have seemed to like this option. If it works....do that is my thought.
A hot air gun might be faster but when it's a 110 year old window with un-replaceable textured glass, one moment of over-heating and it's ruined. When working with un-replaceable things slow and gentle wins every time.
What is happening is that everybody and his/her brother are now connoisseurs of window restoration. Please watch the real professionals of Historic Window preservation and restoration like John Leeke or others if you really want to know how to take care of your windows and preserve your beautiful wavy panes of antique glass and restore your windows professionally.
I actually saw companies using large steaming containment devices to steam entire windows in a single go which lead me to this solution. But I think it's great that people are wanting to maintain their original wood windows because they realize they are almost invaluable and irreplaceable in today's market.
It is a good idea but I’d still do it quicker and neater with a hammer and chisel, maybe because I’ve been glazing since I was 17 now I’m 34 lol , but great vid for the beginners out there 👍🏼
Neater? Doubt that. I’ve been glazing for 32 years. The lead paint alone is reason enough to steam it! Not one person mentioned how toxic lead paint, lead dust is. And a lot of people use a torch to heat puddy. Now u have toxic fumes too inhale along with breathing lead dust. The steam is the safest, easiest way to do it. Especially when in a customers house.
Honestly I don't see why it wouldn't it's just steam coming out the end nothing special about it. I think perhaps having it as direct and not too spread out as possible would be ideal. Or if it is fanned out it might just take a bit longer in some places to get things hot. If the head of the unit comes off like this one does and leaves you with just single orifice I would certainly do that. Those small hand held clothes steamers may not be up for the task as they don't hold much water, might be a paint having to refill and wait to warm up so much, but I have no doubt the larger units with the tank on the ground and the longer hose running from it would work.
@@WhateverUnique I used this technique and its amazing, but I cracked a glass. This because I was silly and did not released that you need to do when outer temperature is not too low or you have to detach the window and bring inside. Then I used to heat the window homogeneously. This is why glazers uses those chamber, to avoid not homogeneous expansion. At he end was a minor crack and replacing was well within the cost of the refurbishment of 9, 150 years old, frames. So worth the experience , but I would like to share this in order to avoid the bad feeling of the terrible "crack" sound :P. Thank you for your share.
Good comment and good point thanks for sharing that about the thermal shocking of the glass. Something folks should probably consider certainly if thinking about doing this in cold months.
A heat gun works a little faster in my experience. But like he says, it's more likely to break the glass. The risk of starting a fire is higher too. You want to keep a spritz bottle and an extinguisher on hand.
Hey... anyone here? I'm down in New Orleans and I'm going to attempt to deglaze and reglaze windows on our 1920's Craftsman home and then prime and paint them. Any suggestions if the wood is a bit worn?
Thanks! Good information. But I'm amazed how many people refer to the putty as "glazing." Glazing is "transparent material (such as glass) used for windows." And the putty is specifically "glazing putty."
hmmm so ur telling me my glass installer wasted me hundreds of dollars by scraping it dry. gotta add it was on windows that could be up to 150yr old, maybe it was hardened more, idk.
Well that's actually a great aspect of this method of removal unlike the others where you are grinding and scraping breaking it down and producing dust. This is basically breaking it out in chunks and it's likely all going to be wet and keep anything from becoming airborne.
I think it's a bit more iffy in potentially cracking the glass based on what I've read and my other experiences with heat and glass. This seemed almost full proof. The biggest danger in cracking the glass with the steamer I think is in the use of the metal putty knife and apply too much pressure too soon in the wrong place.
@@WhateverUnique Awesome thanks for the reply, that makes sense that the heat gun would put the glass at risk. We are slowly upgrading a house from 1870 and all the windows need attention.
A heat gun is a brilliant gadget, I've just restored an old pitch pine door and window frame set up (floor to celing glass panels set in fixed pitch pine frames with door in the centre 11ft 6ins wide, last painted badly 20 years ago). Dry scraping was taking forever, electric sanding was burying the whole district in dust, then I remembered the heat gun stored in the attic. Using the gun I did the final 3/4's of the job in less time than the first quarter took, AND it did a better job of getting back down to the actual wood, making a better job possible, AND it was less effort. BUT I did find I'd put a small crack in the outer glass of two of the eight double glazed units, both in corners, where the heat built up on the glass. Six panes did not crack, so you maybe can do it, but be VERY careful!!! I think the steamer sounds a good idea, maybe a gentler heat, with the steam protecting the glass from shock? If you have vintage/crown glass I wouldn't risk it...
I am in the middle of restoring my windows from 1900. Some of the panes have been replaced with new glass, which seems to crack easier as it's thinner, but I've learned my lesson. I'm having to strip the whole sash, inside and out, because all the layers of paint won't allow them to freely move about, and Im using the heat gun to strip the paint, but nothing close to about a half in from the glass, and that is with a heat reflector being used. If you have an old window laying around, practice on it.
This method does not work on ancient, sun baked, glazing. The glass pane will crack before the glazing softens enough. Sheilding a heat gun with a larger size gypsum knife works better
![Window Restoration w/The Silent Paint Remover: Part 1 [Full]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OXIauqrMCWU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for putting this on UA-cam, you've just saved me hours and hours restoring a glazed cabinet 👍
You're welcome glad it helped
Absolutely Genius. I only have one double hung window with 102 year year old putty on my garage and I'm going to use this method. I did not want to use a heat gun and break the glass. THANKS
This totally worked! I took out the old cheap Wagner wallpaper stripper (that never really stripped wallpaper well once it all went to vinyl) and used it just exactly like this guy did. Just aimed the hose at the rock hard 40 year old putty, and "Voila"!!!!! I can't remember being more excited about a DIY video! Two days ago this job looked impossible! Thank you, Mr Whatever, Thank you UA-cam ........ and thank you to my wonderful sister-in-law, who lent us her wallpaper steamer about 25 years ago, and told my wife not to give it back. :)
My suggestion to those of you who don't own a steamer. Buy one used. There are a whole lot of people who've had them in storage forever, and they'd be happy to sell it to you for five bucks or so. If you have lots of putty to soften, it would even be worth it to buy a cheap one new. This completely takes care of the problem!
Hey I'm glad you found this and it helped! And I agree if you don't on a steamer device it's worth it not just for this or wallpaper. I've used mine for over a decade to remove not just wallpaper but cleaning things, removing paint from odd items. It's simple but effective.
I swear to god, this is the best youtube advice I've got. The wife and I acquired 5 windows, 6 panes each, commercial windows of steel frames with thick wired privacy glass. The wired glass was exactly what she has been looking for to do another project. I bought a used steamer on ebay and we have been steaming away. It takes some time, but then all of a sudden, the glass just falls out. Terrific! We are almost done removing all the individual lites. Well worth the $25 for a used steamer.
Well I INVENTED the method to remove a tub drain....put the grinding disc on the Dremel tool ....remove the drain screen....lower the dremel disc (At Horizontal) into the drain....and move the disc slowly around the drain tube...pressing further and further into the tube wall....then BING ! the pipe drops down and the collar lifts up....READY for Drain replacement :o)
Wow thanks I really appreciate that it's helped you and many others.
@@NYMArtswhat does that have to do with steaming windows?
I've watched dozens of DIY videos for re-glazing windows; this one is easily the most helpful. Thanks for saving me what would have been weeks of work re-glazing 14 wood sash windows with 56 total panes of glass. I do wish I'd known about this method when restoring the picture window in a nearly 100 year old house back in '99. It was 52 panes of glass, each about 12"H x 9"W in a 13Wx4H configuration. It was strikingly beautiful, but a real headache to re-glaze while on a step-ladder. I was heartbroken when the new owners tore it out and installed 3 vinyl sash windows in its place.
Never go back to a place you loved but sold. Few people appreciate hard work.
I wish I had seen this video BEFORE I removed glazing the hard way from 18 window frames! I'll definitely try it for the other 24! Thank you for sharing.
This was so incredibly helpful. I just did a job for someone after watching this and it worked a charm. Three cracked panes removed from very old windows in just a few hours, unlike the many hours I've spent in the past chipping away with a chisel. Thank you.
You ARE spot on with this method. approximately 3 minutes per foot. You are very helpful. Yor video speaks for itself.
My wife and I just bought a house from the 50s, and the inspectors told us to replace all the window putty. We were pretty nervous about it, but after watching this video we picked up a steamer on craigslist and can't wait to try!
Don't forget to put on some good tunes!
I have a couple of antique doors that needed window panes replaced and after watching this video I ordered one of these units from Amazon for $60 and wow! Works exactly as you show here. Fast and clean removal of the old glazing with no cracking of the glass. Thanks for the tip!
A lot of my glazing was coming off by hand it was so old but a few spots are stick stuck on there and my windows feel so fragile. Going to grab my steamer right now!! Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! It was great of you to make this video! I used to have a steamer but got rid of it since it didn't work as expected. I'm going to look for a steamer with a hose like the one you showed. You saved me lots of work. I'm replacing a small window that got broken, so there's no glass and may try an old steam iron while I wait for the steamer to arrive.
I literally saw this video today and while I don't have a steamer, I do have a Wagner heat gun which worked very well!
Thank you for the idea!
You just saved my life, it was driving me nuts!!
Great video. I used a heavy duty box cutter to cut into the meat of the window glaze first. It was just to let the steam get between the window glaze and window a bit faster.
Yep breaking that paint against the glass seems to help expedite things along a lot.
This is brilliant. I bought a Karcher CS1 and it worked a treat. Thanks.
Glad to hear it worked well for you
I did this to wood frame windows made in 1956 that were part of the house when it was new. 64 year old spackle or glazing was hard as quartz rocks. I did this to 6 windows about the same size in the video and it took me 4 hours. No cracked glass!
If you ever come to Australia, I owe you a beer. Thanks mate. : )
You underestimated my memory LoL. I think you might be the farthest person away that this has helped
This is a pretty good trick and was working ok but slow on my 14 pane window from 1921. After finishing one pane it gave me the idea to try a heat gun which worked even better for my window without all the drippy water mess.
You just inspired me to try a Conair Blow Dryer! Worked splendidly!! THANK YOU!!!
Brilliant!!!!! I’m using a clothing steamer, works GREAT!!! Thanks!
Thanks! Old fashioned schooling! Heat and moisture! Brilliant! Way to go!
This was gold! I didn't have a steamer, so I made do with hot water from my coffee maker. For the top edge, I folded a washcloth rag into a long strip, and laid that across a piece of wood and wet it and pushed it against the glazing. I did this twice and the putty just softened right up!
I think you can make a lot of options work in this regard. Hot water, steamer you just need to attack it!!
Revolutionary! Thank you dear, I will try this for my very stubborn 1950s door. x
Thanks for this tip. I was terrified about doing this, feel more confident now. 😁
Thanks, just another reinforcement for the belief in UA-camrs for great ideas. I have not actually verified but it all makes sense
Thanks yes I have found so many helpful things myself on UA-cam and actually what I found led me to this solution in a different way.
You just saved me. Thanks brother.
Thank you so much.. I'm taking the putty out of a 1930's door. I've just stripped my house of chip paper with my wallpaper steamer..i''ve researched this before.. Never seen your video till now.. yep mine was about £20.00 from screwfix. Awsome peice of kit. Cheers mate. Kent.UK
Thank you for sharing this! I am glazing for the first time and without the wallpaper steamer, I would have surely broken glass by now since it was rock hard! Took much less time also! May be able to finish (starting in September in Midwest!)!
Happy to have helped!
I wish I would have seen this video before I removed the glazing from a window from the 1800's! I used a screwdriver and hammer to chip tiny pieces away. This looks like the perfect method!
I feel your pain of finding a solution after doing something I assure you.
Urghh just done a 10pane Victorian arched window the hard way.. One plus side I've another to do so will give this a try!
Loved the video. I have a hand held steamer and cant wait to try this.
I could not find my steam heater so I used my hot air soldering gun and just set it for 212 deg. Worked like a charm. Controlled heat is the key here. Thank you for the idea though!
Nice. Yes controlled heat is a very good way to put it. Those typical hot air guns can be a bit too....wild. I really want a hot air soldering gun for reflowing but I can't commit to such until I have a bit more space for more toys.
No cracked glass? I'm gonna try this with my variable temp heat gun.
Johnp82 : I missed one little arrow shaped steel nib to hold the glass in place and when I used the quick drying (caulking gun type) it cracked right at that place where the nib was. The caulk gun glazing sucks ass.
This worked as advertised, thanks!
Glad to hear!
I picked up a wallpaper steamer. Confirmed it works. Also, it appears that these wallpaper steamers are the same base unit that are used for wood steaming kits so I can easily use the same unit to wood bending!
You can use that steamer for all sorts of stuff is what I've found. The best tools are the ones you use for many different completely unrelated things.
I am going to try this. I like that it keeps down the dust which might have lead in it. Thank you!
God bless you!!!! I've been having such a hard time trying to get this done. In new to this kind of work and I was literally struggling and crying because it was so difficult and long. But you just helped me out a ton. Blessings to you.
I think I watched a similar video. Appreciate the outside the box thinking. I'll probably use this technique on an upcoming project.
Glad it helped
Great job ! Thanks so much for sharing your skill. A steamer is your friend
I love steamers for a lot of reasons. Wallpaper, window putty, cleaning things, they're just handy.
VERY KOOL ! Wallpaper steamer ! ! ! And I ALMOST went for the Dremel :o)
You can use a wet towel and a clothing iron if you do not have a steamer at hand. This consentrates the heat and steam to the putty area only. But as you say, this is the way to go.
As I did I think you saw the video with the steam cabinet but that's something we don't have and the logical next question was: what about using a steamer? Thank you for trying and showing it. I have 6 French windows to do.
It works great. Let the steam do the work. Don't bend or pry or push on the caulk until it's nice and hot. Tackle small section at one time, run the putty knife blade from corner to corner, that way you will not apply any bending stresses to the glass and cause it to break (it is supported by the rabbet cut in the frame, supporting the glass). Hold the steam end within an inch of the caulk/glazing compound. Watch out, the steam will burn you it you have any bare skin! DO NOT GET IN A HURRY! DO NOT BECOME IMPATIENT TO SEE THE GLAZING COMPOUND/CAULK BREAK AWAY FROM THE FRAME, IT ONLY LEADS TO BROKEN GLASS! DON'T FIGHT THE GLAZER'S POINTS OR SMALL NAILS BURRIED UNDERNEATH, JUST REMOVE THE SPAKLE/GLAZING COMPOUND AROUND THEM AND REMOVE THEM LATER! WORK SAFE, WORK SMART! Update: after all the spackle is removed run the square corner of the putty knife blade down the lip, corner to corner. Where you feel a bump is where the glazier’s points are holding the glass in the window frame. Concentrate the heat/steam on that spot and dig a little with a small sharp knife or screwdriver to expose the glazier’s point. Grab the point with a needle nose pliers and pull put the point. This step is if you have to remove the glass which I did because it was broken. Be sure to put multiple layers of tape on the glass beforehand to control where the broken glass goes and not everywhere.
Oh man now I need a steam machine.
Very helpful. Red Devil and Fletcher used to make a plug in hand held device called a putty softener. The closest thing I’ve found to it is a charcoal starter for the bbq, Just hold on glazing 20 seconds and it melts putty back to a semi plastic state where it can be removed.I would never use it indoors. Brian Manne
thank you for making this video it was a huge help.
Super grateful for this tip & all your work posting. I clocked you @ 85 seconds (1:25-2:50) on a 23" section? Is this real time or did U edit out some footage? Our 1924 house has a lot of windows with rock hard cracked glazing, so we'll be trying your method with the warming of Wisconsin soon. Many thanks. FYI readers, Sarco window putties come very highly recommended for the replacement.
Yes that was real time all one shot video, too lazy to do any editing. That why the sound went to pot because the wind started blowing.
@@WhateverUnique Lazy!? It was 85 seconds of great info & solid experience, many many thanks for all!
It works pretty good. I tried it myself.
Great tip going to give it try.
Awesome. I'm going to give this a try. Thanks!
Awesome video thanks! Someone was trying to tell me to get new windows but honestly there’s nothing wrong with my windows except the glazing. They are not letting draft in at all so I’m just gonna do it myself. Again thanks!!!
Does wood needs to dry or i can glaze it after removing old glaze ?
Did you end up having any sag from the wood getting hot and moist and either expanding or softening up and sagging?
Well I never! Thanks for putting this up
You're welcome I hope it helps
Excellent advice if you have a steamer.
Hello man, I cant seem to find any info whats the temperature of the steam?
Thankyou for the video
Where can I buy the steamer?
Since I don't have that wallpaper remover that you have, I could use my hair dryer couldn't I?
Is it the heat or the moisture or both that effect the easy removal of old glaze? What is the temperature of the water vapor at the outlet? Does the glazing have to rock hard for this method to work? I’ve always used a heat shield to keep heat from a propane torch from over heating the glass and if careful that seems to work but takes much longer on rock hard glaze than it does on glaze that is still serviceable.
Will putting hot water also do the job ? I don't have a heat gun or steamer.
Mean bro Awsome . steamer good choice. A first 4m thanks mate.
I shall take your advice kind Sir and do exactly that....thank you very much
I will give it a try been long doing glasses but didn't know this
Ive restored 5 windows with 12 panes per window. I got most of the glazing out with a sharp utility knife once i figured out the correct angle of attack. The rest i used a harbor freight heat gun with a wide attachment thats build perfectly for glazing.
I do the same thing. Edit. Haha. I just replied to my own comment. Didnt know i left one. I crack myself up.
Great tip! Do put anything on the end of the hose?
No, do the hose just as he shows it. Worked for me!
would paint stripper work if you left it on the putty long enough?
$$$ & super messy, also most strippers have temperature, wind & sun exposure limitations that are quite specific. Been doing this for months, trust me.
I gotta try that... I wonder if they rent those?
Didn't have a steamer but I did have a tea kettle. Since the window is laying on my bench, I just poured hot water on it and let it soak, so much easier. I wish I had seen this first.
Now how long do you have to let the wood dry using this process vs mechanical removal? I have a McCulloch steamer that would be perfect for this, but now is my primer going to stick?
I mean it dries out fairly quick. A day perhaps maybe two depending on the humidity? It doesn't really soak the wood so much it just provides enough heat and steam to break the bond.
Let the wood dry a day or two. It depends upon the air temperature and relative humidity where you are!
I’ve been scraping by hand and now I see your video. 😂 Would a handheld pressurized steam cleaner work? They are only $35 on Amazon.
Yes I think anything you could get to put steam out to a localized area would work well. Sorry it took so long to find. I know the pain of finding a solution after the fact.
Brilliant, thank you!
This is incredible!!!
works very well. Thanks
Brilliant. I'm going to try it out. Thanks.
I accidentally filled all the knot holes in the lumber I bought for a new bed with Glazo, a window glazing used to fill holes .I learned the hard way this stuff isn't wood filler it's putty and it DOESN'T HARDEN! Not sure what to do.
Very helpful!
Well, who the hell has a wallpaper steamer laying around?
Well I bought a house in 2002 and there was a ton of wallpaper .... and then this.
A REAL MAN THATS PREPARED!!
The guy in the video
My handyman spent 12 hours scraping glazing off metal window with 20 panes. For which he will go be paid. Will this work for metal windows? I have another window that needs doing.
It should. You're not going to melt the frames with the level of heat that is produced. Just soften the caulk or glazing so the glass can be removed or the caulk replaced.
Great job! I use my hot air gun and it seems to work much better.
Nice job if you got the hot air gun to work. As I'm sure you've read in the comments a lot of people have trouble with that route. Hence why so many have seemed to like this option. If it works....do that is my thought.
A hot air gun might be faster but when it's a 110 year old window with un-replaceable textured glass, one moment of over-heating and it's ruined. When working with un-replaceable things slow and gentle wins every time.
What is happening is that everybody and his/her brother are now connoisseurs of window restoration. Please watch the real professionals of Historic Window preservation and restoration like John Leeke or others if you really want to know how to take care of your windows and preserve your beautiful wavy panes of antique glass and restore your windows professionally.
I actually saw companies using large steaming containment devices to steam entire windows in a single go which lead me to this solution. But I think it's great that people are wanting to maintain their original wood windows because they realize they are almost invaluable and irreplaceable in today's market.
Genius!
It is a good idea but I’d still do it quicker and neater with a hammer and chisel, maybe because I’ve been glazing since I was 17 now I’m 34 lol , but great vid for the beginners out there 👍🏼
Neater? Doubt that. I’ve been glazing for 32 years. The lead paint alone is reason enough to steam it!
Not one person mentioned how toxic lead paint, lead dust is. And a lot of people use a torch to heat puddy. Now u have toxic fumes too inhale along with breathing lead dust. The steam is the safest, easiest way to do it. Especially when in a customers house.
@@NyAntiWokeMan 😂😂 no chance I hacked out and glazed 10 frames at a customers house in about 6 hours
@@goaboy2294 Yeah, really - speed is what matters. Maybe next time, don't speed read other experienced peoples comments though.🙄
Awesome thank you
Brilliant!
Does the steamer for clothes would work as well?
Honestly I don't see why it wouldn't it's just steam coming out the end nothing special about it. I think perhaps having it as direct and not too spread out as possible would be ideal. Or if it is fanned out it might just take a bit longer in some places to get things hot. If the head of the unit comes off like this one does and leaves you with just single orifice I would certainly do that. Those small hand held clothes steamers may not be up for the task as they don't hold much water, might be a paint having to refill and wait to warm up so much, but I have no doubt the larger units with the tank on the ground and the longer hose running from it would work.
@@WhateverUnique I used this technique and its amazing, but I cracked a glass. This because I was silly and did not released that you need to do when outer temperature is not too low or you have to detach the window and bring inside. Then I used to heat the window homogeneously. This is why glazers uses those chamber, to avoid not homogeneous expansion. At he end was a minor crack and replacing was well within the cost of the refurbishment of 9, 150 years old, frames. So worth the experience , but I would like to share this in order to avoid the bad feeling of the terrible "crack" sound :P. Thank you for your share.
Good comment and good point thanks for sharing that about the thermal shocking of the glass. Something folks should probably consider certainly if thinking about doing this in cold months.
I don't have a steamer but I do have a water sprayer and a blow dryer. I'll comment after I try it.
Would a heat gun work?
A heat gun works a little faster in my experience. But like he says, it's more likely to break the glass. The risk of starting a fire is higher too. You want to keep a spritz bottle and an extinguisher on hand.
Legend!
This seems great but we need a way to do this while on a ladder
Ohhhhh ok yeah I feel that pain for real.
OMG thank you
Hey... anyone here? I'm down in New Orleans and I'm going to attempt to deglaze and reglaze windows on our 1920's Craftsman home and then prime and paint them. Any suggestions if the wood is a bit worn?
Might be a bit late, but a bit more detail on what exactly you mean by 'worn'? And I might be able to help.
AMAZING!
Flas I saw this. I am about to start reglazing 736 winsow panes on my Queen Anne but htis is the way i will do it now
Hope it worked out for you
Thanks! Good information. But I'm amazed how many people refer to the putty as "glazing." Glazing is "transparent material (such as glass) used for windows." And the putty is specifically "glazing putty."
The mechanical tools are f or prepping t he surface after the glass is removed
hmmm so ur telling me my glass installer wasted me hundreds of dollars by scraping it dry. gotta add it was on windows that could be up to 150yr old, maybe it was hardened more, idk.
Oooof ....sorry?
Yea but don’t overlook the asbestos containing chances on that old glazing
Well that's actually a great aspect of this method of removal unlike the others where you are grinding and scraping breaking it down and producing dust. This is basically breaking it out in chunks and it's likely all going to be wet and keep anything from becoming airborne.
What about using a heat gun?
I think it's a bit more iffy in potentially cracking the glass based on what I've read and my other experiences with heat and glass. This seemed almost full proof. The biggest danger in cracking the glass with the steamer I think is in the use of the metal putty knife and apply too much pressure too soon in the wrong place.
@@WhateverUnique Awesome thanks for the reply, that makes sense that the heat gun would put the glass at risk. We are slowly upgrading a house from 1870 and all the windows need attention.
Ya, heat guns are for .....well....not much....people have been known to burn things down or up with those things.....ruins more stuff than not.....
A heat gun is a brilliant gadget, I've just restored an old pitch pine door and window frame set up (floor to celing glass panels set in fixed pitch pine frames with door in the centre 11ft 6ins wide, last painted badly 20 years ago). Dry scraping was taking forever, electric sanding was burying the whole district in dust, then I remembered the heat gun stored in the attic. Using the gun I did the final 3/4's of the job in less time than the first quarter took, AND it did a better job of getting back down to the actual wood, making a better job possible, AND it was less effort. BUT I did find I'd put a small crack in the outer glass of two of the eight double glazed units, both in corners, where the heat built up on the glass. Six panes did not crack, so you maybe can do it, but be VERY careful!!! I think the steamer sounds a good idea, maybe a gentler heat, with the steam protecting the glass from shock? If you have vintage/crown glass I wouldn't risk it...
I am in the middle of restoring my windows from 1900. Some of the panes have been replaced with new glass, which seems to crack easier as it's thinner, but I've learned my lesson.
I'm having to strip the whole sash, inside and out, because all the layers of paint won't allow them to freely move about, and Im using the heat gun to strip the paint, but nothing close to about a half in from the glass, and that is with a heat reflector being used.
If you have an old window laying around, practice on it.
the window attachment for heats guns isn't very good still to risky
This method does not work on ancient, sun baked, glazing. The glass pane will crack before the glazing softens enough. Sheilding a heat gun with a larger size gypsum knife works better
Hay Junior, if you needed all that to get it out why did'nt you just leave it alone and paint it? Seems unnecessary to me
Use a cheap hair dryer to warm the putty up and it will remove quite easily.