My battery light on my 2003 Lincoln Town Car was on. New battery. New alternator. After watching this, I found the plug on the alternator was not fully seated. Pushed it on tight. No more battery light.👍
You just solved my issue. Went and checked after checking everything else…. Pulled it in and it clicked. Battery light gone 14v running! It might be simple but your comment got me to check! 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you so much, great knowledge of cars. I just had a battery light on and they replaced my battery cable, and it helped light go off, so this is really helpful have the problem return. Thanks again for the video!
Good fix mate. I've usually found the bad earth (ground in the US) between body and engine a major issue with charging faults especially on French cars. Better camera setup could help loads.👍🏻
My battery light came on, the car drove fine but eventually died while driving home that night. Got it towed to a shop & they said they can’t find anything wrong after checking my alternator, battery, starter, fuses etc. Told me to take it to a dealership even though I have aftermarket radio and amp but I’m certain it’s an electrical issue like a lose wire somewhere. Swapped back to factory radio but light is still on. I’ll try to check alternator wires tomorrow in the daytime. Hopefully that helps.
Sometimes it could be just the Serpentine Belt problem. I had a similar problem with my 2016 Mazda CX-3 as I got the Charging System Malfunction warning, which turned out to be a problem with my Serpentine Belt.
@@TheAnny68 check the plug that goes into the front of your alternator for any damage on the wires all colors could be the tiniest pin hole.. If there's none check the voltage "DC" by using a voltmeter, put the pos on the "nut" of the alternator above the plug and the negative on they negative battery terminal. Do the voltage test while the car is on. I just had it happen again, but this time my alternator was pulling 17.8v, max should be 14.8v. Replaced it yesterday and it fixed it.
@@isaacserna7593 there's a multi plug (a plug that has multiple pins in) that plugs in the back of the alternator. It sends information to either the ecu or the instrument cluster to how the alternator is operating. When I removed the old one I must have snapped part of the clip in the plug, so when I connected with the new one it wasn't clipped in properly. I had to squeeze my head between the rad and block to finally work this out.
In a Mercedes you need to open Xentry/DAS and go to Batter Charging and then you need to reset adaptions and confirm alternator/battery service. After that the warning light will go off
Weirdest shit happened to me,replaced everything...ran fine for a few weeks then everything went to shit again,took it to 2 shops and they kept trying to overcharge me for a new alternator!! Me being me,I dove into my car to really check out what could be wrong...turns out it was in my face the whole time,my 2 main fusible links blew 🙄
yes mine didnt look so good inside. went ahead and replaced evrything but that 2 dollar clip! why? cause i was"in a hurry!" then drove around panic mode for 5 days w my light on. thanks bud
I was driving up a hill in my neighborhood and my car just lost power and gas pedal was giving no acceleration and this battery light came on. It sucks cause I just started driving with my actual license and my own car.
Did you figure out the problem? Mine does the same, battery light comes on and then all dash lights and then I have no acceleration. I've had the problem for months the battery and alt are both good I replaced the speed sensor because the code came up but now the enginge/service light isn't o. So can't check any thing. I was thinking ground wire, bit I can't keep dumping money in it I'd like to know what to fix
Good video, but like someone said, slow down because the camera is all over the place. You test the alternator by placing the red and black to the battery terminals, that gave you a reading of 13.6 or so, then you touched the negative terminal of the volt meter to the housing of the alternator and you got the same reading, I didn't mine was 12.9. But from the two battery terminals it was 13.6. Where should I look from there. I'd appreciate your help. Thank you
My car’s battery and alternator is 1year old new but recently the battery light started turning on and once I turn off my car it won’t turn back on…a few weeks ago I got the fan to the air conditioning replaced and it’s a coincidence that now the battery starting acting up…my brother says the fan is probably using up a lot of power
Ecotec 2.4 I changed my battery after the car failed to start but i got several low battery warnings before hand. Now I've changed the battery and still getting low battery warning at about 5-10 minutes into driving. The battery voltage seems to dip then after another 20-30 minutes of driving the battery voltage starts to go up again. Why does it seem like the alternator is only charging the battery after driving 45-60 minutes while short trips are depleting the battery?
You can take the negative cable from when running of goes dead then bad alternator.if running then bad battery. Replace battery if indicator goes away which it will after replacing battery for a little while because you reset the computer.wait a while or drive down road if light comes on then you either got a loose serpentine belt slipping .tension pully or bad connection cabling from alternator to battery.clean contacts .aliminate the contact connections real good.
Today I had my VW golf battery light came on after 30 seconds of driving. I pulled over, turned off the ignition and after a minute started the engine and the battery sign disappeared. Drove 52 miles on motorway and no problem. I challenged my battery and altanator last year. I drive on the motorway all the time. I'm worried. Is my alternator going?
I have a ford fiesta 2003 1.4 tdci , I change the alternator but sometimes the baterry light comes it’s staying for 30 seconds to 1 minute and it’s turn off , and my headlights fluctuates when i press the window buton , help me bro 😭😆 i don t know what’s wrong whit my car
So what if I did all of that and I’m still having the same issue? I’ve taken it to multiple garages, and the dealership and nobody seems to know what the problem is.
Рік тому
It truly nothing has fixed it and they’ve tried make sure it’s Honda oem alternator
hey there! on my toyota yaris i recently had a new battery and new alternator installed... few days later in the early morning when its dark i can see that the battery light is very very faint! during the day time you can hardly see it. Do you think there is something to worry about.. possibly something wrong with the ground?? thanks for your help and advise!!
@@amandadickmeyer2879 Small update. Wiring seems to be fine. I replaced the corroded positive battery terminal and fusible link connecting block and no change with the battery light. Battery and alternator both test as “good”. Even though the alternator charges I believe it is a fault within the alternator (possibly rectifier/voltage regulator). I’m going to try a used oem alternator and see if the light goes away. Based on the wiring diagram the battery light is a simple circuit and simply turns on when grounded on off when open. Only other possibility is a problem with the daytime running light relay which is on the same circuit for models that have them. Since mine does not have DRL that’s not my issue. Basically the alternator isn’t allowing the circuit to open, there must be a partial grounding which keeps the light dimly lit. When I try another alternator I will let you know if that fixes it. Basically it’s cheap aftermarket parts with poor quality control most likely.
@@amandadickmeyer2879 I figured it out. It was just the alternator. Even if it charges the battery and tests as good it still has an internal issue. Replaced with an used oem alternator and the light is completely gone. I took apart the one I bought from the parts store and the components were very cheap and it was not put together well. Paint on the contacts where there should be bare metal and very cheap parts. Buy a Denso remanufactured unit or an oem from the dealer. The quality of the Denso parts is like oem as they are one of the original manufacturers. Although the Denso I bought also had a few issues as well the quality of theirs is much better. I used the better parts to rebuild the internals of the cheap alternator and hopefully get that working as a backup. I would just recommend the dealer if you want new or just buy a used working original. Ebay has used oem for about $100 with shipping. Hope this helps.
So I replaced my battery and the alternator 3 months ago and my car battery is dead again. Does that mean something like a wire is draining my battery??
Man! Im having a similar problem with my Lancer 2.0 2012. The only issue to add is that im having voltage peaks of 19v. The rest of the symptoms are the same. I'll try it tonight and I will let you know! Thanks bud!
@@br00talhonesty yes! One of the wires (ecu) that goes to the alternator was corroded from inside! Not at the connector but in the middle of the wire bundle.
Replaced battery then altinator then 175 a fuse and all battery connectors. STILL no luck. Finally i reseated the 3 wire plug on the altinator. NO BATTERY LIGHT!!! Dummy me.
I have a 2008 Rav4 with a new alternator installed last week. My battery light came on twice in the past two days so I`m wondering if this is the issue ? I had a new starter and battery installed a few months ago. I took it to Autozone and my mechanic. They both ran the same test with their diagnostic machine and said all three things are running fine.
@@gabegarcia7779 I took my RAV4 to another mechanic. He said sometimes a new Alternator can give out too much or not enough amps, which can trigger the red light, so I'm to drive it for another couple of weeks and see what happens. It's been about three weeks, the light has not come back on since that conversation but I'm still monitoring it.
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light , goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue . this problem started when i removed the battery for charging it
Could this issue cause the battery light to flicker and headlights to pulse. I have had both alternator and battery tested, and they are fine ive checked ground wires. I need to check all my fuses still and the white wire
Aaaargh! Sorry im new to electrical, so i was hoping u would show me where exactly u are placing the multimeter probes on the components, like the alternator. 🤦♀️
I had my Chevy traverse was ok I just park it was ok. After one hour wanted to go get my son from school the car turns on and show better light was cold today was showing ice possible. Start having funny sound. I turn off after that not turning on sound and show now engine light
I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty and just replaced alternator and battery light still on. I tested battery and it’s fine but when I did do the negative terminal volt check it was higher than .14 any suggestions on what it could be?
Can no plastic under the car result to anything like this? Super rainy day today and all my lights went on my dashboard except CEL and steering and brakes were useless luckily I was able to pull over on the freeway- I got a $100 new battery this year in may - could a bad starter be this too? Currently waiting for triple A to come towe me 😅 ima check if that plug under is just loose - I’m hoping ☝🏼 and also- could I pull fuses out and just check if their blown ? That could also be it right
dont know if anyone can help me here (jdm 2010 gs350) had my alternator go bad about a month ago changed it the next day, battery is fine, alternator seems to charge fine 13.7 constant all the time regardless of engine rpm or load (ac, headlights, radio, ect.) but i still have the light. I back probed connector to the alternator and traced the wires as far into the engine harness as i could (did the thing you shouldnt do and poked holes in the wires to test but i did put silicone over the holes) and the 4 wires to the connector on the alternator read fine including when i push and pull on the connector but i still have the battery light which also turns on a warning symbol light which has to be the brightest light in the cluster and says 充電システムを確認してください (check charging system) on the screen in the cluster so i also cant see fuel economy or anything
Ok I need help. I took my car to two different shops. The first one said it was the alternator, which was impossible since I just got a new one 6 months prior. I took it back to that shop where I got the alternator. They said it wasn’t the alternator, that it was the battery. Just got it back last night, the battery light still comes on and off. Original problem was that the “TCS Off” light came on with the light with the car with the swerving lines as well. Then it went away and the battery light turned on. It doesn’t stay on though. Stays on for a few seconds then it goes away. It will even do that when I’m parked. Anything else it could be?
What kind of car? The "swervy lines" mean your traction control is turned off which would coincide with the TCS light coming on. Have you personally tested your alternator/battery? As shown in the video, it's really easy to do every with a $5 multi meter from harbor freight..But you don't make mention of a dead battery/car not starting etc - sounds more like an issue with the TCS system but hard to know without more info and the type of car etc.
@@scrambledeggsalad the car is a 2015 Mazda CX-9 touring. I thought it was the traction as well. But it was the alternator. It was low voltage. That’s why it was still driving, I just didn’t want to wait until it didn’t drive anymore. The shop ripped me off, told me it was the battery then they said they were just going to replace the alternator since I was still under warranty. While they were fixing that, they “accidentally” broke my radiator. They did replace it but I felt I got the battery for nothing.
Check the alternator then check to see if the battery cables are corroded or loose or the cable from the battery to the alternator is. Then check the battery fuse. Also check to see if the battery have a battery holder, if there isn’t a battery holder and the battery moves freely that can damage the battery I’ve seen it happen before although it’s quiet rare. If the car doesn’t start at all even if you jump it, check the main fuse.
20 means it’ll test with a range of 0-20volts. Which also means less resolution. Some meters have an auto function that’ll auto adjust the range for you.
Same thing here . Car died. Replaced battery autozone told me it was bad. Light was still on. I Replaced alternator. showing on the range of 13v engine off Showing on the range of 14v engine on. What could it be ?
my car didn't start and needed a jump I made it home but my battery light was not on. I pulled in the garage when i got home shut the car off and than I tried to start it just clicks no power to start So I charged the battery for 3hrs than I started the car and than my battery light came on. That's when i tested the voltage the reading was low under 12 volts so I hope it's the alternator I ordered one.
Sorry but the 1st 9 minutes are painful. Just because a battery has 12. Something volts does not mean it’s good, you need to load test batteries to confirm their capacity status. Just because a relay “clicks” doesn’t mean it’s good, the contacts on the inside maybe burnt & not getting 100% continuity. The signal wire at the plug 👍🏻
I have replaced the alternator 3 times now, the battery light soon comes on and the car started to once again not turn over because the battery drains, me and my wife were driving and the car glitched out all lights flickered inside the car, then it was dying but we turned the headlights off then the car went back to completely normal, the battery light is now on again and it won’t go off, it normally goes away after 5 minutes of driving and comes on every time you crank it, please please please help me from a distance and give me some advice I have no energy left it’s been 4 months of this I just need to know what it can be because I’ve also replaced the battery twice.
Dude , your video positioning is so bad I couldn't follow you. Gotta get someone to hold your camera if you do a step-by-step such as this...Respectfully
My battery light on my 2003 Lincoln Town Car was on. New battery. New alternator. After watching this, I found the plug on the alternator was not fully seated. Pushed it on tight. No more battery light.👍
You just solved my issue. Went and checked after checking everything else…. Pulled it in and it clicked. Battery light gone 14v running! It might be simple but your comment got me to check! 🎉🎉🎉
Thank you so much, great knowledge of cars. I just had a battery light on and they replaced my battery cable, and it helped light go off, so this is really helpful have the problem return. Thanks again for the video!
Good fix mate. I've usually found the bad earth (ground in the US) between body and engine a major issue with charging faults especially on French cars. Better camera setup could help loads.👍🏻
My battery light came on, the car drove fine but eventually died while driving home that night. Got it towed to a shop & they said they can’t find anything wrong after checking my alternator, battery, starter, fuses etc. Told me to take it to a dealership even though I have aftermarket radio and amp but I’m certain it’s an electrical issue like a lose wire somewhere. Swapped back to factory radio but light is still on. I’ll try to check alternator wires tomorrow in the daytime. Hopefully that helps.
Any luck?
Any update?
Update
update...?
update mf 6 months now
Sometimes it could be just the Serpentine Belt problem.
I had a similar problem with my 2016 Mazda CX-3 as I got the Charging System Malfunction warning, which turned out to be a problem with my Serpentine Belt.
After a year of trying to fix my battery light being on I've fixed it! Thanks to you! The damn white cable had a pin hole in it.
How did you fix it ?
@@TheAnny68 check the plug that goes into the front of your alternator for any damage on the wires all colors could be the tiniest pin hole.. If there's none check the voltage "DC" by using a voltmeter, put the pos on the "nut" of the alternator above the plug and the negative on they negative battery terminal. Do the voltage test while the car is on.
I just had it happen again, but this time my alternator was pulling 17.8v, max should be 14.8v. Replaced it yesterday and it fixed it.
Great video
Very informative with great detail.
Thank you
You just saved my bacon mate, multi plug was loose, great video
How many volts is it charging. Mine is at 13.5 volts.
Whats a multi plug mate?
@@yayyay1953 it was running strong on the tester, brand new battery and alternator
@@isaacserna7593 there's a multi plug (a plug that has multiple pins in) that plugs in the back of the alternator. It sends information to either the ecu or the instrument cluster to how the alternator is operating. When I removed the old one I must have snapped part of the clip in the plug, so when I connected with the new one it wasn't clipped in properly. I had to squeeze my head between the rad and block to finally work this out.
@@notsosure7757you
I will definitely try this! Thank you so much
May God bless you for making this video you are so kind
In a Mercedes you need to open Xentry/DAS and go to Batter Charging and then you need to reset adaptions and confirm alternator/battery service. After that the warning light will go off
I wish you were my mechanic, mine just says everything is fine, but the battery light keeps coming on.
great video! yet simple and easy to understand
Information Great, but slow down the camera. It was just jerking from one place to another.
Weirdest shit happened to me,replaced everything...ran fine for a few weeks then everything went to shit again,took it to 2 shops and they kept trying to overcharge me for a new alternator!! Me being me,I dove into my car to really check out what could be wrong...turns out it was in my face the whole time,my 2 main fusible links blew 🙄
yes mine didnt look so good inside. went ahead and replaced evrything but that 2 dollar clip! why? cause i was"in a hurry!" then drove around panic mode for 5 days w my light on. thanks bud
I was driving up a hill in my neighborhood and my car just lost power and gas pedal was giving no acceleration and this battery light came on. It sucks cause I just started driving with my actual license and my own car.
That’s called responsibility
Did you figure out the problem? Mine does the same, battery light comes on and then all dash lights and then I have no acceleration. I've had the problem for months the battery and alt are both good I replaced the speed sensor because the code came up but now the enginge/service light isn't o. So can't check any thing. I was thinking ground wire, bit I can't keep dumping money in it I'd like to know what to fix
@@mandysandridge9042 cheaply alternator fuse
Good video, but like someone said, slow down because the camera is all over the place. You test the alternator by placing the red and black to the battery terminals, that gave you a reading of 13.6 or so, then you touched the negative terminal of the volt meter to the housing of the alternator and you got the same reading, I didn't mine was 12.9. But from the two battery terminals it was 13.6. Where should I look from there. I'd appreciate your help. Thank you
My car’s battery and alternator is 1year old new but recently the battery light started turning on and once I turn off my car it won’t turn back on…a few weeks ago I got the fan to the air conditioning replaced and it’s a coincidence that now the battery starting acting up…my brother says the fan is probably using up a lot of power
So how do you get rid of battery dash light
Check the plug on the alternator for broken white wire.
The white wire was cut there is your problem
Yeah I replaced my pigtail alternator and battery and it still on. Mechanic says its the ipdm?
Black tape over the light just charge it at night
Thanks alot I followed you instructions and I fix the issue
The white cable was the problem
Hey Leo put your turn signal, a 60,000 dollar car I'm sure it came with them!!
Ecotec 2.4 I changed my battery after the car failed to start but i got several low battery warnings before hand. Now I've changed the battery and still getting low battery warning at about 5-10 minutes into driving. The battery voltage seems to dip then after another 20-30 minutes of driving the battery voltage starts to go up again. Why does it seem like the alternator is only charging the battery after driving 45-60 minutes while short trips are depleting the battery?
You can take the negative cable from when running of goes dead then bad alternator.if running then bad battery. Replace battery if indicator goes away which it will after replacing battery for a little while because you reset the computer.wait a while or drive down road if light comes on then you either got a loose serpentine belt slipping .tension pully or bad connection cabling from alternator to battery.clean contacts .aliminate the contact connections real good.
I got dumber trying to decipher your comment. I assume your first language is not English but if it is, go back to school.
Today I had my VW golf battery light came on after 30 seconds of driving. I pulled over, turned off the ignition and after a minute started the engine and the battery sign disappeared. Drove 52 miles on motorway and no problem. I challenged my battery and altanator last year. I drive on the motorway all the time. I'm worried. Is my alternator going?
What was the purpose of checking the relays?
I have a ford fiesta 2003 1.4 tdci , I change the alternator but sometimes the baterry light comes it’s staying for 30 seconds to 1 minute and it’s turn off , and my headlights fluctuates when i press the window buton , help me bro 😭😆 i don t know what’s wrong whit my car
how do i get battery light to go off in 2006 Camry after installing new battery? Alternator is also new but light stays on
Yep. Mine came on too. Charging 18 volts.
18 volts is way over . Alternator is faulty I believe
have to replace the bolt on my battery terminal. what kind of bolt should I use?
So what did you have tobdo?
Can a bad alternator fuse drain the battery??
Yea
Yeah
So what if I did all of that and I’m still having the same issue? I’ve taken it to multiple garages, and the dealership and nobody seems to know what the problem is.
It truly nothing has fixed it and they’ve tried make sure it’s Honda oem alternator
hey there! on my toyota yaris i recently had a new battery and new alternator installed... few days later in the early morning when its dark i can see that the battery light is very very faint! during the day time you can hardly see it. Do you think there is something to worry about.. possibly something wrong with the ground??
thanks for your help and advise!!
I have the same car with the same issue. Did you ever figure it out? If not I will update you when I get mine solved.
@CouchMan88 noo i still see it every morning when it's dark out thenthe sun comes out and I can't 🤣 thank u!!
@@amandadickmeyer2879 Small update. Wiring seems to be fine. I replaced the corroded positive battery terminal and fusible link connecting block and no change with the battery light. Battery and alternator both test as “good”. Even though the alternator charges I believe it is a fault within the alternator (possibly rectifier/voltage regulator).
I’m going to try a used oem alternator and see if the light goes away. Based on the wiring diagram the battery light is a simple circuit and simply turns on when grounded on off when open. Only other possibility is a problem with the daytime running light relay which is on the same circuit for models that have them. Since mine does not have DRL that’s not my issue. Basically the alternator isn’t allowing the circuit to open, there must be a partial grounding which keeps the light dimly lit. When I try another alternator I will let you know if that fixes it. Basically it’s cheap aftermarket parts with poor quality control most likely.
@@amandadickmeyer2879 I figured it out. It was just the alternator. Even if it charges the battery and tests as good it still has an internal issue. Replaced with an used oem alternator and the light is completely gone. I took apart the one I bought from the parts store and the components were very cheap and it was not put together well. Paint on the contacts where there should be bare metal and very cheap parts. Buy a Denso remanufactured unit or an oem from the dealer. The quality of the Denso parts is like oem as they are one of the original manufacturers. Although the Denso I bought also had a few issues as well the quality of theirs is much better. I used the better parts to rebuild the internals of the cheap alternator and hopefully get that working as a backup. I would just recommend the dealer if you want new or just buy a used working original. Ebay has used oem for about $100 with shipping. Hope this helps.
So I replaced my battery and the alternator 3 months ago and my car battery is dead again. Does that mean something like a wire is draining my battery??
All my fuses are good I checked them.
Check voltage regulator
94 chevy k1500. One wire connector. All is new. Alternator won’t excite and charge
Those relays and fuses would cause the battery light to illuminate?
With Fords relays and fuses can make the car fly and travel through time
Man! Im having a similar problem with my Lancer 2.0 2012. The only issue to add is that im having voltage peaks of 19v. The rest of the symptoms are the same. I'll try it tonight and I will let you know! Thanks bud!
Btw battery and alternator got replaced. Problem remains the same
Any luck
@@br00talhonesty yes! One of the wires (ecu) that goes to the alternator was corroded from inside!
Not at the connector but in the middle of the wire bundle.
@@JTesla Ty will check this out
My battery voltage is at 48v!!
Was the white wire a ground or hot?
Now we know why BMW owners don't use their turn signals. 🤣
Replaced battery then altinator then 175 a fuse and all battery connectors.
STILL no luck. Finally i reseated the 3 wire plug on the altinator.
NO BATTERY LIGHT!!!
Dummy me.
reseated.... meaning you mean you replaced the wires connecting to the alternator?
I have a 2008 Rav4 with a new alternator installed last week. My battery light came on twice in the past two days so I`m wondering if this is the issue ? I had a new starter and battery installed a few months ago. I took it to Autozone and my mechanic. They both ran the same test with their diagnostic machine and said all three things are running fine.
@LactoseTheIntolerant did you find out what the issue was yours and get it fixed ? Of so what was the issue location ?
Update
@LactoseTheIntolerant update
@@gabegarcia7779 I took my RAV4 to another mechanic. He said sometimes a new Alternator can give out too much or not enough amps, which can trigger the red light, so I'm to drive it for another couple of weeks and see what happens. It's been about three weeks, the light has not come back on since that conversation but I'm still monitoring it.
@@amck72 have you tried the wires on the alternator ?
you know my light and message comes and goes. i also change my battery and alternator. everything also looks good. what would you think my problem is?
im also having the same problem but my car is cutting off while stopped…are you having this trouble too?
Did you solve the problem? I’m having the same problem
@@funchickyfa did u figure the issue
nice video man. thanks
Good video
brother i have ford fiesta 1.4 tdci my problem is that whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i fully press the throttle all the way to 5k rpm it starts charging and light , goes offf , plz help me to solve this issue . this problem started when i removed the battery for charging it
On my 2015 Chrysler 200 I have the same issue. But everything was replaced
Megafuse on side of under hood fuse maybe?
Could this issue cause the battery light to flicker and headlights to pulse. I have had both alternator and battery tested, and they are fine ive checked ground wires. I need to check all my fuses still and the white wire
Aaaargh! Sorry im new to electrical, so i was hoping u would show me where exactly u are placing the multimeter probes on the components, like the alternator. 🤦♀️
What is that a shortage or an open
Yo i got an old 07 scion tc and my battery light times on and off some times and it illuminates some times but drives good and fast
Try the pcm. Take it a loose then put it back together.
How do you know if it's the pcm?
How is it pcm
I had my Chevy traverse was ok I just park it was ok. After one hour wanted to go get my son from school the car turns on and show better light was cold today was showing ice possible. Start having funny sound. I turn off after that not turning on sound and show now engine light
My battery light is still on. 2011 scion tc
Multimeter showing that is charging at 14 v . Engine off 12v
New battery new alternator helpppp
What about old one 9 yrs , worn?
I have a 2008 Jeep Liberty and just replaced alternator and battery light still on. I tested battery and it’s fine but when I did do the negative terminal volt check it was higher than .14 any suggestions on what it could be?
What did you find out
And also my car has always been reading “voltage too low “ from time to time
Great job on this video thank you!
Thank you, I had that problem a few years ago with a Hyundai elantra 2003 and years the wireinwas the problem...
Can no plastic under the car result to anything like this? Super rainy day today and all my lights went on my dashboard except CEL and steering and brakes were useless luckily I was able to pull over on the freeway- I got a $100 new battery this year in may - could a bad starter be this too? Currently waiting for triple A to come towe me 😅 ima check if that plug under is just loose - I’m hoping ☝🏼 and also- could I pull fuses out and just check if their blown ? That could also be it right
dont know if anyone can help me here (jdm 2010 gs350) had my alternator go bad about a month ago changed it the next day, battery is fine, alternator seems to charge fine 13.7 constant all the time regardless of engine rpm or load (ac, headlights, radio, ect.) but i still have the light. I back probed connector to the alternator and traced the wires as far into the engine harness as i could (did the thing you shouldnt do and poked holes in the wires to test but i did put silicone over the holes) and the 4 wires to the connector on the alternator read fine including when i push and pull on the connector but i still have the battery light which also turns on a warning symbol light which has to be the brightest light in the cluster and says 充電システムを確認してください (check charging system) on the screen in the cluster so i also cant see fuel economy or anything
did you find out?
Ok I need help. I took my car to two different shops. The first one said it was the alternator, which was impossible since I just got a new one 6 months prior. I took it back to that shop where I got the alternator. They said it wasn’t the alternator, that it was the battery. Just got it back last night, the battery light still comes on and off. Original problem was that the “TCS Off” light came on with the light with the car with the swerving lines as well. Then it went away and the battery light turned on. It doesn’t stay on though. Stays on for a few seconds then it goes away. It will even do that when I’m parked. Anything else it could be?
What kind of car? The "swervy lines" mean your traction control is turned off which would coincide with the TCS light coming on. Have you personally tested your alternator/battery? As shown in the video, it's really easy to do every with a $5 multi meter from harbor freight..But you don't make mention of a dead battery/car not starting etc - sounds more like an issue with the TCS system but hard to know without more info and the type of car etc.
@@scrambledeggsalad the car is a 2015 Mazda CX-9 touring. I thought it was the traction as well. But it was the alternator. It was low voltage. That’s why it was still driving, I just didn’t want to wait until it didn’t drive anymore. The shop ripped me off, told me it was the battery then they said they were just going to replace the alternator since I was still under warranty. While they were fixing that, they “accidentally” broke my radiator. They did replace it but I felt I got the battery for nothing.
Can anybody explain to me l was driving my Cadillac DTS but the better light came on and the battery saver activ come up and my car died on me
Check the alternator then check to see if the battery cables are corroded or loose or the cable from the battery to the alternator is. Then check the battery fuse. Also check to see if the battery have a battery holder, if there isn’t a battery holder and the battery moves freely that can damage the battery I’ve seen it happen before although it’s quiet rare. If the car doesn’t start at all even if you jump it, check the main fuse.
I’ve replaced my alternator and and battery.. engine light and battery light still coming on 2004 Honda accord.. Can anybody help
Did you get it fixed
God Bless🙏❤️
Toyota 3 wire alternators don't use relays to work ....
👏🏼👍🏼
I know I'm late on this thread why are we putting the test meter voltage at 20
The system of the car uses 12v(car off) to 14.5-15v( car on). So 20v would be the one to use on your multimeter!
20 means it’ll test with a range of 0-20volts. Which also means less resolution. Some meters have an auto function that’ll auto adjust the range for you.
Auto zone tested my battery and alternator and nothing was wrong but my battery light won't go off
Ecu or battery sensor
Same thing here . Car died. Replaced battery autozone told me it was bad. Light was still on. I Replaced alternator.
showing on the range of 13v engine off
Showing on the range of 14v engine on.
What could it be ?
my car didn't start and needed a jump I made it home but my battery light was not on. I pulled in the garage when i got home shut the car off and than I tried to start it just clicks no power to start
So I charged the battery for 3hrs than I started the car and than my battery light came on. That's when i tested the voltage the reading was low under 12 volts so I hope it's the alternator I ordered one.
for some reason my car battery light will cut on then then car might die for a few a but then later cut on
A blown or missing idiot light fuse can cause this.
Had an oil leak it blowing oil all over the alternator
Sorry but the 1st 9 minutes are painful.
Just because a battery has 12. Something volts does not mean it’s good, you need to load test batteries to confirm their capacity status.
Just because a relay “clicks” doesn’t mean it’s good, the contacts on the inside maybe burnt & not getting 100% continuity.
The signal wire at the plug 👍🏻
Don’t toss it use it as a core 😂
Thanks Leo your camera move too much and is hard to see the parts
I have replaced the alternator 3 times now, the battery light soon comes on and the car started to once again not turn over because the battery drains, me and my wife were driving and the car glitched out all lights flickered inside the car, then it was dying but we turned the headlights off then the car went back to completely normal, the battery light is now on again and it won’t go off, it normally goes away after 5 minutes of driving and comes on every time you crank it, please please please help me from a distance and give me some advice I have no energy left it’s been 4 months of this I just need to know what it can be because I’ve also replaced the battery twice.
I got drunk with the movement of the camera...horrible
Thought it was me
By the way, battery voltage does not mean the battery is good.
Great video thanks
😊❤
This is what a lack of diagnosis does. You end up being a parts replacer.
Good content but please speak louder bro
Bro can I just tow my car to you, where you live
My shop is located in utah
SAME lol
Alligator clips
The vocal is so muddied that it cannot be understood. I say 'skip this' video...
God sake use microphone....can't make it out what your saying...
I'm
Very erratic video.
Dude , your video positioning is so bad I couldn't follow you. Gotta get someone to hold your camera if you do a step-by-step such as this...Respectfully
great video thanks
Good video thanks.