Gary, another great video. In the disinfection stage, you disconnected the UVT sensor which would cause the solenoid to close. After adding chlorine to the system, you say to run the water through the UV and back downstream however the solenoid would remain closed until the sensor is connected again, right?
another great video Gary. Question, i have a very similar setup with different a Viqua UV which the controller has a meter view up to 100% but when we take a bath and running water so long, not sure if it’s my whole house cathalic carbon filter (for sulphur) can’t handle the flow but the UV system goes down to 48…50% thus make the water at that point not safe for drinking in the house. After a while it will rise back to 100%. Any thoughts why it would do this?
You indicate the flow meter arrow indicates direction of water flow but you install it in your video against the water flow, please explain? Also another comment asked about the optional solenoid valve and whether it was required, if this system is connected to a submersible pump well system and you have a power failure no new water can be introduced into the system. Any water already in the homes plumbing system would have already been treated. I would think if you were connected to a town or city system that is independent from your localized power source it would be beneficial to have this installed knowing if you were to continue using your water system by opening the emergency bypass you will be introducing untreated water into your plumbing system. A chlorination process would then need to be completed to treat any potential water borne virus's introduced to the system when you bypassed the non-working UV light system. What are your thoughts? Thank you
You are correct I installed the flow meter backwards by mistake in this video. You will have pressure in the tank, so even if your pump has no power you could still pass through 15 or more gallons of untreated water while the power is off, enough to infect the water downstream of the system. Yes, if untreated water was introduced you would need to chemically disinfect the system and your household plumbing.
Thank you for the reply and the videos you make. In my case I have a constant pressure pump system that has small gallon tank that is installed after my filtration system. No water is stored in a large bladder tank just a glass or two and the pump ramps up based on demand. Not sure why you would not want whatever pressure tank system being used to be installed after the treatment/filter system. Any potential contaminated water sitting in a tank in a warm environment will only increase potential issues. Just my opinion mind you. Thanks again.
Hello, I had one of these installed a year ago. The flow meter is typically always red until water is turned on, could this be due to not having enough straight pipe before, there's prob 2 inches of pipe after a 90? Also they first installed the flow meter with the light on the side which caused the whole system to violently shake when water was turned on. Came back and fixed it. 1 year later they just changed my bulb, and left the flow meter tilted a tad to the side, and it's shaking again. Thank you for the video.
Great questions. The light on the flow meter must be pointed up. If not then you will get the shaking you mention. The light being red with no flow is normal. They need to come back to correct that the flow meter so it is installed correctly.
I learned in plumbing school. I personally don't do installations anymore so other than for videos and the odd service call I don't do it often. Please describe your suggestion for the easiest way to teflon.
Seems visually over complicated this unit. Also one question. Why does this unit need to be mounted vertically. I have a blueonics unit and they said it doesn’t matter how it’s mounted
Keep in mind that this is a monitored system so it will always be more complex. Since the lamp is not supported at both ends, only the top, it cannot be mounted horizontally. There are many models that can go both both ways but not this one.
Why would you install a bypass and a shut off? Not meant to criticize, but is there a reason? The purpose of the shut off being no unsafe water goes out to the user. Having a bypass option allows the user/operator to cancel out the shut off. Don't give that option.
You would install one so if the system fails or leaks you would still have water. You wouldn't install one because frequently they are left open by mistake contaminating the water. I prefer not to install the bypass as the second is far more likely to happen than the first case.
Can you explain why you say (at around 12:10) that you must have at least 12” of copper before going to PEX on the outflow side? There’s no mention of this in the installation guide for the Pro 10.
Thank you so much for the very informative video! Helped me get through the install with no problems.
Glad it helped! Please share video with friends and family!
Thank you Gary, excellent presentation.
Thanks for watching. Please share video with friends and family!
perfect tutorial, great job!
Glad you liked it! Please share video with friends and family.
How are you joining the uv housing to the copper pipe? Isn’t there a problem with different metals and water causing corrosion?
Good question but it is not a concern since the UV is stainless steel.
Gary, another great video.
In the disinfection stage, you disconnected the UVT sensor which would cause the solenoid to close. After adding chlorine to the system, you say to run the water through the UV and back downstream however the solenoid would remain closed until the sensor is connected again, right?
Great question! I'm not sure. I would call the manufacturer and check with them.
great stuff again!
?? do you have to install a solenoid? I see that is an extra?
Yes you do if you want it to be a monitored system that shuts down when it goes into alaram. Yes, it is an extra cost item. Thanks for watching!
another great video Gary. Question, i have a very similar setup with different a Viqua UV which the controller has a meter view up to 100% but when we take a bath and running water so long, not sure if it’s my whole house cathalic carbon filter (for sulphur) can’t handle the flow but the UV system goes down to 48…50% thus make the water at that point not safe for drinking in the house. After a while it will rise back to 100%. Any thoughts why it would do this?
Could it be micro bubbles in your water?
@@water_estore it could be, if it is the case is there a way to prevent it?
You indicate the flow meter arrow indicates direction of water flow but you install it in your video against the water flow, please explain? Also another comment asked about the optional solenoid valve and whether it was required, if this system is connected to a submersible pump well system and you have a power failure no new water can be introduced into the system. Any water already in the homes plumbing system would have already been treated. I would think if you were connected to a town or city system that is independent from your localized power source it would be beneficial to have this installed knowing if you were to continue using your water system by opening the emergency bypass you will be introducing untreated water into your plumbing system. A chlorination process would then need to be completed to treat any potential water borne virus's introduced to the system when you bypassed the non-working UV light system. What are your thoughts? Thank you
You are correct I installed the flow meter backwards by mistake in this video. You will have pressure in the tank, so even if your pump has no power you could still pass through 15 or more gallons of untreated water while the power is off, enough to infect the water downstream of the system. Yes, if untreated water was introduced you would need to chemically disinfect the system and your household plumbing.
Thank you for the reply and the videos you make. In my case I have a constant pressure pump system that has small gallon tank that is installed after my filtration system. No water is stored in a large bladder tank just a glass or two and the pump ramps up based on demand. Not sure why you would not want whatever pressure tank system being used to be installed after the treatment/filter system. Any potential contaminated water sitting in a tank in a warm environment will only increase potential issues. Just my opinion mind you. Thanks again.
Hello, I had one of these installed a year ago. The flow meter is typically always red until water is turned on, could this be due to not having enough straight pipe before, there's prob 2 inches of pipe after a 90? Also they first installed the flow meter with the light on the side which caused the whole system to violently shake when water was turned on. Came back and fixed it. 1 year later they just changed my bulb, and left the flow meter tilted a tad to the side, and it's shaking again. Thank you for the video.
Great questions. The light on the flow meter must be pointed up. If not then you will get the shaking you mention. The light being red with no flow is normal. They need to come back to correct that the flow meter so it is installed correctly.
@@water_estore thank you for that information
Who taught you how to teflon, you’re doing it the hardest way possible
I learned in plumbing school. I personally don't do installations anymore so other than for videos and the odd service call I don't do it often. Please describe your suggestion for the easiest way to teflon.
Seems visually over complicated this unit. Also one question. Why does this unit need to be mounted vertically. I have a blueonics unit and they said it doesn’t matter how it’s mounted
Keep in mind that this is a monitored system so it will always be more complex. Since the lamp is not supported at both ends, only the top, it cannot be mounted horizontally. There are many models that can go both both ways but not this one.
Ok thanks for clearing up the support of the light. As to where mine is supported on both ends so can be mounted anyway. Thanks for responding
Why would you install a bypass and a shut off? Not meant to criticize, but is there a reason? The purpose of the shut off being no unsafe water goes out to the user. Having a bypass option allows the user/operator to cancel out the shut off. Don't give that option.
You would install one so if the system fails or leaks you would still have water. You wouldn't install one because frequently they are left open by mistake contaminating the water. I prefer not to install the bypass as the second is far more likely to happen than the first case.
Can you explain why you say (at around 12:10) that you must have at least 12” of copper before going to PEX on the outflow side? There’s no mention of this in the installation guide for the Pro 10.
This system is way to complicated and messy. I have a UV filter and it doesn't have wires everywhere but thanks either way.
I understand, this is a Pro level monitored system, typically what would be installed in a public facility like a small school or restaurant