Couple suggestions: Sometimes the relief valve doesn't seat properly, so flushing the relief valve for a minute can wash it clean. Most manufacturers of hot water tanks recommend this flush every 3-12 months. With the inlet and outlet valves closed, water or air can only come out of the other openings. No water will come out of the relief valve because that would require air to be pushed in through the drain valve, so the comment "no water is coming out of the T&P line" does not mean the water level in the tank is below the T&P level. At the end of the video you try to expel the air in the tank by opening the drain valve. Air floats above water and you'll need to use a high-point vent to remove air. The relief valve would serve this purpose. For viewers that don't have a separate hot water heater or boiler, it is important to verify that the tank is full of water before restoring power. Opening the drain does not accomplish this.
Question: So it's easier to replace this valve in the future, why not replace the vertical section of copper pipe after the valve with a flexible copper whip? Then you don't have to do any more soldering/desoldering in the future.
I would recommend turning off the blue Watts recirculating pump whenever you turn off the water flow into and/or out of your water heater. I own the same pump. Our city water was out for 5 days after an ice storm, and I forgot to turn mine off. The pump motor burned out during that time, and I had to replace it.
Great info. I really appreciate a video that explains what I need to know. I gave it a thumbs-up and subscribed also. I appreciate when people make UA-cam videos that really help me out. Thanks.
My city water system has a sediment issue, always has. The valve from my 3 year old tank had a small drip here and there. Plumber wanted 250 to change the valve and also said I needed an expansion tank. Never had one on my old water heater that lasted 12 years. Changed the valve myself yesterday. Took 10 minutes. So far no drips
I bought a universal valve at Lowes. The body is longer so the probe is a showing less. It's a side mount gas water heater , I've seen answers to no it's not ok and it's ok. Any opinions? Thanks for the video. The original is the shortest body possible American 6900816 and a 4"probe the new one is utilitech 362341
The cold water pipe feeding the tank has a shutoff valve labeled "hot water" . It would make sense to label this "cold water in" or simply "water in". How does air escape the tank from the bottom when you opened the tank drain at 16:45 since air is lighter than water and rises in the tank?
The previous home owner had labelled it that way. I agree with you but I can see if someone didn't really understand it, labelling it hot water essentially does stop hot water production from the homeowner view. But I do agree that it cold water in or cold water is absolutely accurate. Good catch about the air in comment also, i really meant to say water out of the tank. Thank you very nuch for watching and I hope you Subscribe and Like this video also. Best wishes to you.
No, The spring works at the spec pressure/temp marked on the label and there is no way, either deliberate or by accident that can adjust the pressure on these consumer models.
No worries, better safe than sorry and check. Thanks for watching and be sure to check out and share my channel for other videos. All home projects DIY to save you money and maybe even have fun doing the work. 😀
I did not know you could run plumbing out of the T&P valve port on a water heater the way you have it setup with a "T". Question, Can I plumb a heating loop through the T&P valve open with a "T" similar to your setup, to a firstco 24HBQH? I am having problems with cold water back flowing through the heating system when shower is on and the check valve is failing due to hard water issues.
On this setup you definitely plumb it this way as it only has the two ports so you really have no choice. The T is not anything special but it is more of a "street" t so it saves some extra fittings but could you do it differently. There are no special valves or anything in the T. The main thing to remember is that the T&P must have the probe in the body of the water in the tank at least an 1" is what most recommend for safety. It may also be useful to call the manufacturer of your tank for install diagrams. They can often help. Best wishes to you and thank you for watching.
What would you suggest regarding the pressure relief valve in a basement (which has no drain) I want to lay down a floor? I can keep the area with the water heater unfinished, but would you recommend to open a hole in the basement cement to allow any water leaks to drain outside?
That is a great question. If you are in a warmer climate then routing a line outside could be a good idea and save any flooding. Remember to check it at least once a year to make sure it’s clear. You can do the same in a cold climate also but just want to make sure that any holes are well sealed and also check it once in the warmer months. When this valve is used the pressure is very forceful so if by chance something is in the drain line it will likely blast it out. Thank you for watching and I hope this is helpful for you. Best wishes
On mine, the copper pipe from the T&P valve takes a right angle turn and the two more and then goes outside the house. In other words, I can’t just turn it to loosen it from the valve. Whoever installed it must have thought the T&P valves last forever. Is my only option mow to get someone to cut the pile and then resell a coupler on after the valve is replaced?
You can cut the pipe but you don’t need to resolder it to get it back together. Cut the pipe as square as you can with a hacksaw. Use a 3/4 sharkbite coupling. They’re easy to find a Lowe’s and Home Depot
Sorry that doesn't sound right at all. You might have a small pinhole leaking making the noise anf the sweating is a slight leak. Look close and take your time. Best wishes to you.
Mine was leaking I replaced it and it leaked also. So I thought it was a faulty one so I bought another.. But it leaked also..my psi is at 60 my temperature is at 90°F what do I need to do
@@SilverCymbal yes on my hot water tank.. And I turned the temp down to 90° just to be safe. Ill turn it back up to 120 ° later.. My problem is it still leaks..another question is. Could the tank be outdated to were I should go on and buy a new one and I don't use a lot of hot water.. Could I buy a 20 gal.instead of a 40gal
These valves only open under 2 conditions. Temperature or pressure. I know you said you are at 60psi and the water temperature is 90. I would go to either lowes or home depot and buy a pressure gauge, they are around $7-10. They just screw on a garden hose fitting or even the drain of your hot water tank. You can connect it to that see what pressure it shows to be certain. Try to leave it conected for a little bit and it will probably rise in temperature. Keep an eye on all of these if you leave them connected since they can leak.
You can also try another thing. First, is the valve leaking all the time? Try to open the hot water for a minute or so at a faucet. Chance are the leaking will stop at the valve.. What you probably have happening is you are building too much pressure, this can happen if you have a hot water expansion tank on the line and if you don't you may need to install one. I don't have a video on this but others do. You may also want the advice from a plumber as well. - Those valves only open for one of the two reasons so you need to correct the reason which my guess is that too much pressure is building due to a failed expansion tank or lack of one. This is very common but as I said you are likely reaching a point where you need a professional. I don't believe changing the tank will make a difference
When you turn the water off going into the water heater, does it turn just like a sink faucet? As in clockwise to turn it off? I recall some things in plumbing seem "backwards." If the knob is wiggly but still stuck, like mine appears to be, any tricks to getting it to close so I can get the water off? I dont want to bust it.
Please *LIKE* this video and *SUBSCRIBE* for more helpful videos. *To see a very common T&P valve at a special price click here: **amzn.to/2JdAtQ3*
Couple suggestions:
Sometimes the relief valve doesn't seat properly, so flushing the relief valve for a minute can wash it clean. Most manufacturers of hot water tanks recommend this flush every 3-12 months.
With the inlet and outlet valves closed, water or air can only come out of the other openings. No water will come out of the relief valve because that would require air to be pushed in through the drain valve, so the comment "no water is coming out of the T&P line" does not mean the water level in the tank is below the T&P level.
At the end of the video you try to expel the air in the tank by opening the drain valve. Air floats above water and you'll need to use a high-point vent to remove air. The relief valve would serve this purpose.
For viewers that don't have a separate hot water heater or boiler, it is important to verify that the tank is full of water before restoring power. Opening the drain does not accomplish this.
That was a very good step by step explanation. I very helpful. I wondering if any case your heater won't turn on again...
Question: So it's easier to replace this valve in the future, why not replace the vertical section of copper pipe after the valve with a flexible copper whip? Then you don't have to do any more soldering/desoldering in the future.
I would recommend turning off the blue Watts recirculating pump whenever you turn off the water flow into and/or out of your water heater. I own the same pump. Our city water was out for 5 days after an ice storm, and I forgot to turn mine off. The pump motor burned out during that time, and I had to replace it.
Fantastic video, super informative. thanks!
Great info. I really appreciate a video that explains what I need to know. I gave it a thumbs-up and subscribed also. I appreciate when people make UA-cam videos that really help me out. Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words and helping me out as well. I really appreciate it. Best wishes.
My city water system has a sediment issue, always has. The valve from my 3 year old tank had a small drip here and there. Plumber wanted 250 to change the valve and also said I needed an expansion tank. Never had one on my old water heater that lasted 12 years. Changed the valve myself yesterday. Took 10 minutes. So far no drips
I bought a universal valve at Lowes. The body is longer so the probe is a showing less. It's a side mount gas water heater , I've seen answers to no it's not ok and it's ok. Any opinions? Thanks for the video. The original is the shortest body possible American 6900816 and a 4"probe the new one is utilitech 362341
To let air into the tank, when draining it, you can also open a nearby faucet's hot water -- right?
Yes but if you do it above the tank you will need to let the water drain from the system above. This is ok to do it just takes a while.
A glitch in the Matrix at 10:38? Good video nonetheless.
That F**ked me up! LOL
The cold water pipe feeding the tank has a shutoff valve labeled "hot water" . It would make sense to label this "cold water in" or simply "water in". How does air escape the tank from the bottom when you opened the tank drain at 16:45 since air is lighter than water and rises in the tank?
The previous home owner had labelled it that way. I agree with you but I can see if someone didn't really understand it, labelling it hot water essentially does stop hot water production from the homeowner view. But I do agree that it cold water in or cold water is absolutely accurate. Good catch about the air in comment also, i really meant to say water out of the tank. Thank you very nuch for watching and I hope you Subscribe and Like this video also. Best wishes to you.
Silver Cymbal hot wterbk
Does spinning the valve around tighten the spring inside and change the pressure at which water is released at?
No, The spring works at the spec pressure/temp marked on the label and there is no way, either deliberate or by accident that can adjust the pressure on these consumer models.
@@SilverCymbal K Thanks. I accidentally spun it around when flipping it back down. Was a bit worried. LOL.
No worries, better safe than sorry and check. Thanks for watching and be sure to check out and share my channel for other videos. All home projects DIY to save you money and maybe even have fun doing the work. 😀
Should have tested the t&p valve at the end take make sure it worked
Thanks!
What gauge do you have on the hot water line coming from the water heater?
I did not know you could run plumbing out of the T&P valve port on a water heater the way you have it setup with a "T". Question, Can I plumb a heating loop through the T&P valve open with a "T" similar to your setup, to a firstco 24HBQH? I am having problems with cold water back flowing through the heating system when shower is on and the check valve is failing due to hard water issues.
On this setup you definitely plumb it this way as it only has the two ports so you really have no choice. The T is not anything special but it is more of a "street" t so it saves some extra fittings but could you do it differently. There are no special valves or anything in the T. The main thing to remember is that the T&P must have the probe in the body of the water in the tank at least an 1" is what most recommend for safety. It may also be useful to call the manufacturer of your tank for install diagrams. They can often help. Best wishes to you and thank you for watching.
What is the gauge on the hot water pipe that sends hot water to the rest of the house?
What would you suggest regarding the pressure relief valve in a basement (which has no drain) I want to lay down a floor? I can keep the area with the water heater unfinished, but would you recommend to open a hole in the basement cement to allow any water leaks to drain outside?
That is a great question. If you are in a warmer climate then routing a line outside could be a good idea and save any flooding. Remember to check it at least once a year to make sure it’s clear. You can do the same in a cold climate also but just want to make sure that any holes are well sealed and also check it once in the warmer months. When this valve is used the pressure is very forceful so if by chance something is in the drain line it will likely blast it out. Thank you for watching and I hope this is helpful for you. Best wishes
just replaced the valve it is a new one and it leaks should i replace it again ?
On mine, the copper pipe from the T&P valve takes a right angle turn and the two more and then goes outside the house. In other words, I can’t just turn it to loosen it from the valve. Whoever installed it must have thought the T&P valves last forever. Is my only option mow to get someone to cut the pile and then resell a coupler on after the valve is replaced?
Sorry for typos.
I meant:
Is my only option NOW to get someone to cut the pile and then REWELD a coupler on after the valve is replaced?
You can cut the pipe but you don’t need to resolder it to get it back together. Cut the pipe as square as you can with a hacksaw. Use a 3/4 sharkbite coupling. They’re easy to find a Lowe’s and Home Depot
Good video.
Thank you for the kind words!
All the dislikes are from professional plumbers.
I love it!
Leaving hot water supply open and any hot water faucet. Will fast water drain out of heater tank
My hot water tank is hissing, & the pipes r sweating y,what does that mean
Sorry that doesn't sound right at all. You might have a small pinhole leaking making the noise anf the sweating is a slight leak. Look close and take your time. Best wishes to you.
Mine was leaking I replaced it and it leaked also. So I thought it was a faulty one so I bought another.. But it leaked also..my psi is at 60 my temperature is at 90°F what do I need to do
First are you installing this valve on a hot water tank itself? 90 degrees is pretty low for domestic household hot water so I want be certain.
@@SilverCymbal yes on my hot water tank.. And I turned the temp down to 90° just to be safe. Ill turn it back up to 120 ° later.. My problem is it still leaks..another question is. Could the tank be outdated to were I should go on and buy a new one and I don't use a lot of hot water.. Could I buy a 20 gal.instead of a 40gal
These valves only open under 2 conditions. Temperature or pressure. I know you said you are at 60psi and the water temperature is 90. I would go to either lowes or home depot and buy a pressure gauge, they are around $7-10. They just screw on a garden hose fitting or even the drain of your hot water tank. You can connect it to that see what pressure it shows to be certain. Try to leave it conected for a little bit and it will probably rise in temperature. Keep an eye on all of these if you leave them connected since they can leak.
You can also try another thing. First, is the valve leaking all the time? Try to open the hot water for a minute or so at a faucet. Chance are the leaking will stop at the valve.. What you probably have happening is you are building too much pressure, this can happen if you have a hot water expansion tank on the line and if you don't you may need to install one. I don't have a video on this but others do. You may also want the advice from a plumber as well. - Those valves only open for one of the two reasons so you need to correct the reason which my guess is that too much pressure is building due to a failed expansion tank or lack of one. This is very common but as I said you are likely reaching a point where you need a professional. I don't believe changing the tank will make a difference
When you turn the water off going into the water heater, does it turn just like a sink faucet? As in clockwise to turn it off?
I recall some things in plumbing seem "backwards." If the knob is wiggly but still stuck, like mine appears to be, any tricks to getting it to close so I can get the water off? I dont want to bust it.