'51 John Deere B, This is Getting Expensive
Вставка
- Опубліковано 9 вер 2024
- Well, where to start. Water in cylinder 2 when pulling the head off. Now I'm tearing the block off to have it checked for cracks and then hopefully boring it over. Now I need to pull the crank out and have it turned. I'm already this deep I might as well do it all.The bad thing is this was not my plan, but I want to make sure this is going to last for another 70+ years.
I feel your pain. I bought a basket case 39 B in Jan. will be 9 years ago. It has taken me working piecemeal a little along on it. This past Jan. 7 I finally drove it . I have a little over 8 thousand dollars in it. It has new EVERYTHING and I mean everything. Too many new and as new parts to mention. Costs so much to do anything now days. But I have as close to a new tractor as you can get. I could never sell it for what I have in it so I will keep it and enjoy it. Good parade tractor and everybody loves a Deere...
Sorry to hear about your findings. The good news is it sounds like you are fixing it right. Can you use the crank and block from the other tractor instead of machining these? Word to the wise, don't turn down the journals for the main bearings unless absolutely necessary. If you do, you may need to have the main bearings re-babbited to undersize and that is REALLY expensive compared to everything else. The shims in the mains were meant to adjust some wear, but not a lot. Also, I couldn't tell if your connecting rods were babbitt or inserts. Again, if the crank is turned down you can either re-babbit the rods or you can buy the insert rods from the late B or 50 (B3201R) and buy undersize inserts. You may have figured this all out already but I'm just trying to help you learn from my mistakes/ experience. Be careful getting the clutch driver off. When it finally pops off it can come off with a scary bang. Keep your toes clear and don't stand on front of it. Do you plan to go through the transmission?
I have figured out about the B/50 rods. I am on the search now for some 50 rods so I can use inserts. The block on the ‘48 will have to be bored or a least that is what I would do. It has a heavy ring ridge on it. I have not checked the crank/Babbit on that one yet. I am waiting on the report back from the machine shop on the condition of the block. I do plan on going through the transmission but I want to get the engine done first. I still have to remove the hub for the clutch thanks for that info. I have to purchase or make a puller. I figure if I go through it and do it right it should last another 70 years. I know I am going to have more into it than the tractor is worth but I don’t care. Thanks again for the info and I appreciate any information you have.
@@rsmstuff3178 sounds like you have a good plan. I made clips for a video talking about the puller I made but never published it and I should. Simply get a piece of square pipe that spans across the entire pulley. Drill two holes equally spaced with the threaded holes in the clutch driver. Get two pieces of strong all- thread or lag bolts (need lots of thread is why) and put them through the holes in the square tube and thread them into the clutch driver. Have a set of nuts and washers on the thread on the outside of the bar stock. Continue to slowly and equally add tension by threading the nuts in towards the pulley until it pops off. Hopefully that made sense. I just figure a man like yourself can really make that and it will be guaranteed to work/ fit right. Good luck!
@@DanielFarmChannel that is pretty much what I have in mind to do. I measured the holes to be 3-3/4” centers. I will drill it out a little over 1/2” to allow for slight misalignment and to keep from completely tearing up the threads. Hopefully today I will have time after work to purchase some strong all thread I really don’t want to use the grade 2 stuff.
Nothing Nothing Nothing on old tractors, especially green ones is even remotely cost effective.