After 16 3D Printers, I Found My Favorite 3D Printer Bed
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- Опубліковано 28 тра 2024
- My FAVORITE 3D printer bed ever! Learn about this amazing material that and why I love it so much. #3dprinting #carborundumbed #3dprinter #makerplate
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00:00 My favorite printer bed
00:31 What is carborundum?
04:16 Cleaning and upkeep
06:09 A little more space
09:02 MakerPlate sponsor - Наука та технологія
“Ultrabase” many printers been using it for a long time.! You’re calling it that to make it sound different and fancy.!
its not calling it anything but its common name "Ultrabase" is Anycubic's Trade name for the glass coated in Carborundum
Was hoping to see some comments on how it does across different filaments which seems to me like the hard problem of bed selection; but it seems implied youve only tried it with PLA. How is that even an interesting question; any bed will essentially do fine with PLA.
Yep love my glass creality bed even though its a bit heavy, does the job really well and once completely cooled it pops right off! But when im in a hurry to start the next print i slide a razer under it and it usually pops off
I love carborundum bed but the problem with this coating is that if you live in a place where temperature doesn't go below ~30C then the prints wont release.
I have this problem. I hace left prints on the bed and with the printer turned off all night, in the morning they are just as stuck as they where. One thing to help with this is to pop the bed in the freezer for it to get cold enough to release. But this just adds time in between prints.
That's why in my case I prefer textured PEI coating bed. I don't even have to wait until it cools down, I can pop prints out as soon as they finish and it leaves a very cool looking bottom layer that also hides lines. And it works with PETG without the need for anything else.
The problem is if you don't like or can't have that textured bottom layer
Have you tried putting the bed with the stuck print in the refrigerator?
@@gorgonbert Yes, like I said. I put it in the freezer for 10-15 minutes until it gets cold enough to release the print.
But the issue is that it cuts back time when I want to keep printing
@@PandaTaco oh… totally missed the part with the freezer when i read your post… I blame lack of coffee in the morning 😋…
yeah… putting it in the refrigerator is a fix for one or two times… but not a good solution if you print a lot… maybe some sort of freezing spray or some other source of „coolnes“ 😉? maybe evaporation of isopropyl alcohol?…. but that’s a firehazard…🤷♂️ don‘t know…
@@gorgonbert I've heard of spraying alcohol to release prints but there's a mixed opinion on using alcohol on this surface so I don't know.
@@PandaTaco Even spraying water works well but still needls some 10 minutes. In the video about alcohol+water mixture it only took 10 seconds.
But I'm not sure of the effects on the bed either. It was three weeks after I started spraying water when the everything stopped working as it should, probably a mix of factors (extruder cracked, the SD card died, coupling was cutting into the tube etc) but it never became flawless again so I'm still not sure.
That kind of base have been out since the revision of the anycubic i3 mega (V2, not the S model), is their ultrabase basically, other manufacturers ended copying with time. It sticks materials pretty well but can be tricky to take things like tpu out of it.
Got a Creality CR-6SE for Christmas (today) and it came with one of these beds, no matter how many times I cleaned it with ISO alcohol, it just would stick the first layer!…..No matter how many times I cleaned it with ALCOHOL, it just woul…then I found this video! Was about the throw the bed away, thinking I had a duff…going to clean with windex and a flannel cloth. Thank you Sir, you have just saved the bed (and my sanity) 👊🏼😎
My Voxelab Aquila comes with the Carborundum bed. It works perfectly, just like you say!
In my opinion powder coated pei on spring steel sheet is leaps and bounds better than glass with carborundom coating. Especially since I print with lots of PETG
You should not use this with PETG. You would actually reverse it and use the other side.
@@petercallison5765 textured powder coated pei works great with petg and releases just fine with no release agent. Very different from smooth pei sheets.
I have been using the original ender 3 plate for two years. Recently i have used a glass plate that is very thin and it has the dimensions of an A4 sheet. I think it's used for art stuff. Anyways, it works very well and the prints completely release by themselves when the bed is cooled. I do not have a lot of experience using glass but so far all the things you mentioned in this video happen with the regular $2 glass that i have.
Awesome, thanks for the video!
I flipped my original ender 3 bed over. I get zero warps and I don’t use any adhesive. This works phenomenally well with PLA.
I use these beds on my ender 5s. I am mainly printing petg. It's more of less like normal glass and petg, which is petg changes size a little when it cools and so does glass. So if you do it right you can actually hear the petg pop off the surface as it cools. Petg generally does need a primer on these beds, using hairspray.
Ohh, It's already the default bed I have from my Ender 3 MAX. That's nice to know, It's my first 3D printer so I'm still learning about it.
Layerneer Bed Weld is a great product. I've been using it for more than a year on all types of bed surfaces.
same, I'm printing nylon with no enclosure with bed weld and it's amazing!
I haven't tried Layerneer Bed Weld but I do use a similar product called "3D Lac Plus" which has the same properties but comes in a similar sized bottle with a pump spray, I tend to use it when printing with PETG as a release layer as I have a Creality carbide bed on my modded CR-10s, works well for me and protects the bed from damage too.
I just bought a makergear M3SE and now going to get one to make this an even better printer
I do petg first layer at 0.28 and very slowly on the textured side and it works perfectly, I don't even need to use any extra adhesive
Thanks for the info. My first printer was an Ender 3 V2 and have had no problems with sticking and like you said, just pops straight off. I did wonder why others had adhesion problems and had to scrape off until I realised it was this bed type that was the difference. Good tip about the alcohol for cleaning, I was also using that and have stopped.
Well that ended my bed search since I have 4 of these for 2 printers. I have had some supersticky results with PLA+ though. I'm pretty happy with the smooth side and some purple gluestick. But, I switch to the rough side too.
I'm really surprised that you can use glass-cleaner because it usually contains everything (including ammonia) but the kitchen sink to be effective. So, it might be best to use just the Dawn as you mentioned. I have found that just the tiniest amount of Dawn will actually clean things very well, especially video monitor screens (but alway use distilled water with it). I nearly, exclusively print PETG and TPU using a CR10S-Pro and the Creality PEI surface with great results (also cleaning with alcohol) Looking forward to the review of the spray. Thanks!
Thank you for the interesting and helpful content. I’m unboxing my Ender 3 V2 tomorrow so looking forward to trying out the print bed 👍😎🇦🇺
You’re gonna love it - have fun!
Careful the new ones are coming with defective beds that nothing sticks to. If it has a matte black finish and is fairly smooth its going to be the bade version.
I am waiting for my magnetic flexible PEX build plate from Wham Bam to arrive for my E3V2. I have one one my cr10 and it is nothing short of amazing. No more glue or mess. I can’t recommend them enough.
My new Tenlog has Borosilicate Glass Bed. Heat to 70c. PLA Prints never comeoff until it cools to about 45c.
Creality's carborundum plate works like a charm. I still clean it with alcohol, this makes PLA prints stick very well: they don't slide off by themselves but I can still remove them without applying much force. Of course that also depends on the model. A full 20x20 cm base needs a little extra motivation ...
I don't know the Bed Weld stuff but I use Dimafix, DevilDesign adhesive coating and FormFutura Easyfix and these all work very well. The FormFutura EasyFix is available for different materials and they have even coatings for stuff like PP and PA (nylon) on a glass bed.
Yes, i can agree with it. My ender 3 max has one shipped also. OK, the heat bed could not claim to be really even (once heated up) and nevertheless of the thick glass i can see a recess in the middle of the glass bed.
Let s see how the bed surface looks after a few years. To clean it not with IPA or acetone is in IMHO a disadvantage compared to my pei coated bed on the prusa.
So, another material good for PLA and not much else. Guess it's cheaper than the PEI sheet options?
i actually went down to lowe's and had them cut down a 3mm thick mirror for me, i got 7 beds outta the big piece of glass they cut down for like 20 bucks, and it works just the same, but you can clean with IPA to remove grease. :shrug i dont need any adhesives like gluestick/hairspray and the prints pop off after the bed cools down fully, which takes about 20 min, you'll hear *pop**pop**pop* as the prints break free from the glass
How does a carborundum glass bed compare to the borosilicate bed that comes stock with the Ender 3 V2?
I got a couple of things to interject here too I guess. I have seen more videos with people using all this 100% and 99% and denatured alcohols for cleanup than should be. Look, ipa is great for it but why does everybody think that just because your a "serious" hobbiest now that you've found the "secret"? I bought my forth printer, a creality cr6 se, three months ago which came with the dual sided glass bed. Having personally perfected adhesion on my previous glass beds with PLA/blue tape, TPU/blue tape, and ABS/abs slurry (dissolved abs in acetone), I was excited to experience this silica bed. Sorry, just started with petg but on another printer. Anyway, it works EXACTLY as describe! So like most I looked for some videos on how to clean it. I found one with a guy complaining that he was wiping off more of the coating every time he cleaned it. And he loves his 100% ipa, "uses it for everything". I use it straight when I want to dissolve sticky residues, not clean an already very clean surface of some lint and fingerprints. Take that ipa and cut it to 50/50 with water and you can clean your whole work bench with plus this print bed with no damage and no excessive drying time. Save that 100% for cuts and spills or cleaning tools. Anyway, there's my 2cents. Good video
I just purchased my first 3dprinter "ender 3 v2" waiting for it to be shipped!
Great for PLA terrible for PETG. I much prefer a spring still sheet with high quality PEI.
Yeah. I discharged my i3 glass bed too because of PETG. For PLA these glass beds are really good.
spring steel
Actually, G10 is cheaper and works as well (or better) than a Carborundum bed. I had a Carborundum bed on my CR-10 V3 and it wore out after 6 months of moderate use. G10/FR4 also has the self-releasing property when the bed cools down. G10 is also very durable as well. But make sure to get G10 that is at least 2 mm to 3 mm thick (so it doesn't warp when printing large PETG parts). You can also print PETG and other more difficult plastics on it. Nice video but for me, G10 is the clear winner (price and durability are better). See Maker Muse's video on it. Cheers!
Great video. My Ender 3 Max 300mm x 310mm bed glass was warped by .5mm in the centre, this was a pain to level, the metal bed was fine, I placed a metal ruler on the glass to feel the see-saw effect. Everything was squared up and tight, I bought another glass plate and everything was perfect.
i found out a long time ago when i put my then noisy printer outside that the bed warped, after much thought i cam to the conclusion that when the bed is heating up there's a large temperature differential between the center and outside which causes bowing. after insolating the bed and enclosing the printer (inside my house lol) i haven't seen any warp since
you can take the bed off and place it on a couch or bed then apply a lot of pressure to the center of the bed to try to bend it back, that's what i did to fix my bed
Best thing I've found so far, believe it or not, was the this diffuser sheet from a broken TV's lcd backlight.. it was a 65 inch, so I have plenty of backups if something happens, but I've run the hot nozzle across it (whoops) and it left a line, but I couldn't feel the line, or even catch it with a thumbnail, so it's a visual only line.. just glued it to my glass with clear 5 minute epoxy (not the greatest) and trimmed it down.. not sure what it's made of exactly tho..
it only stuck 6 months on my anycubic I3 mega, same for my geeetech A10 and 3 months only for my CR-6 SE. used ipa, dish soap, window cleaner and distilled water. not a problem of z-offset or other settings because it immediatly stuck with a new bed on my anycubic without changing anything. now i don't buy a new bed, i use magigoo on the old one.
i was one of the very first batch of people who tried silicon carbide bed. it was during the late 2018, the original inventor sent me a piece of the silicon carbide coated bed, it was great but the problems were the coating easily fall off/grip too well and not releasing after the bed is cooled. mine chipped off when i tried to pull the print from the bed after it was cooled after a few use. the inventor (from china) later said he sold his recipe to a large (undisclosed) company. Maybe i should give this type of bed another go, perhaps the coating adherence improved?
My prints just don’t want to stick at all to the carborundum bed. I’ve been using a glue stick to keep prints stuck down while printing. Lots of time spent leveling the bed and trying different spacing from nozzle to bed. Just doesn’t like to hold. Also tried the bed off and also making the bed hotter.
ive found pei to be by far the best and most care free bed adhesion you can use, no fuss and its renewable,(scuff it and its rejuvenates the bond)
you just have to be careful with PETG, very narrow temp window between hold on and having to rip off pei off the bed/spring steel. And no heat with TPU. Some people apply a very thin coat of oil, but i just use different spring steel sheets. One with pei and the other with kapton tape
Only problem with these beds (and trust me, I’ve gone through half a dozen of them) is that they still only work with a handful of plastics. They’re not good if you use PETG for example as the glass/carborundum will still chip randomly when the PETG cools (the best I’ve found is only letting it cool to ~62°c and pulling the print off rather than letting it cool all the way to room temp before removing)
I’ve used the creality one straight from them as well as a bunch of the “creality” ones from other brands (which are slightly different) and they’ve all acted the same way.
When Ultrabase beds first came out and a bunch of UA-camrs got their hands on them and raved about how great they are, I jumped at and got one. BIG mistake. At the time there were assertions its great for all materials and bed is good to 130c. PLA prints worked OK, then a couple of Polycarbonate prints and done, after the bed cooled, the part popped off with shards of glass. Self released with glass still attached. This should be a PLA only bed, maybe flexibles. Petg, ABS, PC -- don't even bother.
I just got my Ender 3 v2 with the same bed. After the first two prints using Hatchbox PLA the only way I can get the first layer to adhere is turning the glass upside down and using Elmer's Board mate spray adhesive. I have leveled and leveled and leveled and Cleaned and cleaned the Carborundum bed with windex. and I get very little or no adhesion after the skirt in laid down. What do I do????? Please advise
If you check the comments here, a couple of folks have indicated that Creality has had a bad batch or two so it sounds like you might be in that boat. I would recommend getting in touch with their support team and see if they'll send a new one. If you're following along with what I explain in the video (slightly higher nozzle distance, clean bed) then it should work miracles for you. Since it isn't, you should probably reach out.
@@The3DPrintingZone I did all of your suggestions and NO JOY! I just reached out to Creality. Let's see what they do! Thanks!!!!!
Great video on Carborundum! For Bed Weld testing, the instructions state that it is not compatible with microporous coated glass, but that only applies to the older Creality beds, where it would bead up, and flake off. However, itt seems to work well with the upgraded Carborundum glass.
Use it on the glass side of the bed if you want a smooth print bottom, and use the Carborundum side if you want a bit of texture.
Avoid printing at too hot of a temperature to avoid extreme adhesion. Start with the recommended temps 60C PLA, 80C ABS, and 70C PETG. Bump PETG up to 80C if you still have lifting. If you accidentally print too hot, and encounter extreme adhesion, then the freezer trick works nicely. It will release the part shortly after pulling it from the freezer, because the bed will fog up, and that will release the water soluble coating. Should only need that trick in an emergency. Parts should release at room temp like Carborundum, but adhesion at hot should be better.
For PETG you should squish it like PLA. Most people avoid too much squish with PETG, because they are trying to avoid having it adhere too well, and risk chipping the bed during part removal. Since Bed Weld will release the part when it cools to room temp, you can squish it.
I print warp test parts on the Carborundum, and still get some warping, but have been able to print the same parts on glass, with a fresh coat of Bed Weld, and it stays planted without using a brim.
You can do ot yourself actually, just mix a bucket of pva glue and carborundum - you can buy it for gemstone polishing. However it will kill your nozzle bigtime since it is used to polish cylinders in engines, it eats brass as butter. There is an even better powder though, it is tin oxide and you can do this as well. The good part is that the pva is water soliuable for removal on plastics so you can try as much as you want. I do not however see why you need this since any , glass bed sticks even without heat and if it dont, just add liquid pva. If you do not get that to stick your gap is too large. Glass is generally easiest to remove of al as well as a drop of water will lift your model by capillary forces, so add a few drops in the corner of the print and a few minutes off it pops off
I have a glass bed that was supplied with my ender 3 brought last xmas but not used it yet
If has a textured surface .
Would this be one of these beds ?
I’m not certain. My understanding is that they did not come on the Ender 3 - only the V2 or Pro, but I can’t say for sure.
@@The3DPrintingZone
Thanks
May just chuck it on and see what happens
BTW, 'high temp' ceramic exhaust paints, properly baked, leaves a tough layer of silicon carbide (SiC) on the metal.
I tried it on mild steel; it applied well, looked fine after drying/baking, clung to the metal like a clinging thing, stable at bright red-hot, almost zero printing adhesion.
Not saying that SiC is bad for printing, just a data point suggesting that ceramic hi-temp paint containing SiC isn't a good print surface!
Still searching!
Great video. My prints always stick great, but even after cooling the glass all the way, my prints do not want to come off. Any advice?
i have the same bed type on my mega x and i hate it , it takes super long to heat up and even longer to realese my prints . my most favorite printsurface is PEI magnetic sheet with textured surface
Isnt wet&dry paper coated with silicone carbide? A sheet of 2000 grit clipped to the bed might be a cost-effective alternative....
I use glue stick with glass bed. After some layers i ll lower the temperature slowly to avoid warping.. untill the bed turn off. Save some electricity.
I’d love to know why the creality one has that satin / semi-gloss surface while every other “creality” carborundum bed is a very matte surface, and if you clean the creality bed too much it also becomes matte.
I’ve noticed the creality one has a slight yellow tint over the white printed portions and works really well, but also picks up markings from past prints and scratches very easily (which will also show up in your prints)
Meanwhile the other makers/sellers beds start very matte but are more scratch resistant yet aren’t quite as good with adhesion.
They’re all “creality carborundum / borosilicate glass beds”
Hey does this Printbed Exist for the Craft Bot 2 ?
i love the glass bed too. Only bad side is if there is a power outage it cools down and you lose your print.
no beds stay warm if the power goes out
@@420247paul not if it is out for awhile
I would not recommend using it glass side up. I did for a spell to print with PETG with tape. When I flipped it back nothing will stick.
Silicon carbide is also used in power electronics and other electrical devices
That Carborundum stuff sre sandpaper granules, why not print directly on sandpaper 🤔
I just bought a carborundum glass bed. I have not been able to make it work. I used it directly without cleaning, cleaning with water, soap, alcohol, temperatures between 55 and 70 °C, layer heights from 0.12 to 0.2 mm and my PLA still does not adhere. I use a Bltouch and have no problems with the magnetic beds, but this glass bed gives me a headache. Any ideas?
Just did the same thing after watching this video purchased the linked bed and have been having similar issues. spring steel + PEI sheet sticks way better and is easy to remove by flexing if needed. same gcode etc on the PEI prints fine and sticks the whole print. On the Carborendum it doesnt hold and either starts to warp or delaminates mid print. even upped the bed temp to 70 and still same issues even printing with a brim. tried right out of the box and even washed with some dawn dish soap and water etc. Complete Garbage. Great concept if it worked well...
@@matthewkoloski I have asked the store to send me another one to make sure it is not a problem due to manufacturing. I will let you know when I have some test results with the new bed.
@@matthewkoloski The problem still persists. The new bed sticks better than the last, but still not good.
Okay I have tried soapy water to clean my bed and it ruined the print, turned my bed to a slip and slide, I will keep going with the isopropyl till I ruin my bed, its got some ugly gauges in it anyway so its no loss to get a shiny new one
How hot your heated bed is usually? I print PLA without even heating the bed. Will it stick to unheated bed?
I usually print PLA at 60 C but I haven't tried it on this bed without heat.
@@The3DPrintingZone please check, if someone need to heat the bed just to release the printed model when it's cooled down than it wouldn't make sense economically. I'm heating the bed mostly for bigger 3d prints to prevent warping
I've had to use glue stick to really get it to stick after I used IPA on my carb coated glass plate. Wish I would have known I would have just been more patient.
Great info. no wonder my top layer was peeling off. I better stop using the alcohol. LOL
bottom layer :)
I read the user manuals on my ender and I don't remember reading not to clean with isopropyl....Sure enough, the entire coating was lost in less than a week and the bed is useless. Threw it away and bought PEI. Wish I knew earlier DO NOT CLEAN WITH ALCOHOL on carborundum surface.
Yes it is confusing, the manual does say to wipe it with alcohol. How did you find out the coating was lost?
@@goku445 The surface color faded and nothing would stick to it. Even using Elmer glue wouldn't help.
I heard in the video the word "custom" order. where can I order a custom size one. I need on in 500x500mm. that looks like what I really need to my big printer.
If you order on AliExpress you can almost always just ask the seller, as they're most often also the manufacturer.
I bought the anycubic mega x and its ultrabase does the same thing
Getting into 3d printing what is a good printer to start and grow into. Some thing you can start printing with and later able to upgrade and make better if that is the way to go. I'm clueless as there is so many choices and prices it's overwhelming. Which has pushed me to delay getting one. Thanks for the awesome information.
Unless you have a pretty big budget to start with, I’d go with something like the Ender 3 V2 to start with. That one actually can be upgraded in both size and parts but it does a decent job out of the gate and helps 3D Printing to not be too annoying/discouraging. Flashforge makes great printers if you have a bit more to invest upfront.
@@The3DPrintingZone thank you I'll go with this and start there. All I want to do is print model parts for my model hobby without having to pay someone to print and then get the piece in the mail to find out that it's not what I was looking for. So if I can print them myself I can make changes to the pieces to get them to fit right. Thank you again very helpful. That's why I watch your content.
AnyCubit is my New Choice...
$299......Already set to print....
Great for me being a novice to the 3D game...
PEACE POWERS 🔋
The reason why PETG sticks too well to the glass is probably because you need to print it quite closely to the plate to adhere well. I'm printing PETG on a painter's tape on Snapmaker 2.0 and it prints well without sticking to the tape. I guess that rougher surface makes the whole difference.
I made the mistake of printing PETG directly on the bed exactly once :) I now always print it either on tape or on glue. I nearly ruined my Snapmaker 2 bed that way. Lesson learned.
Don't try print ASA filament, almost impossible to remove especially larger objects. Glass break when filament is cooling (ASA filament sticks so that the glass stays on prined parts). I destroy 2 pieces of that glass
To wait till it pops off, been there done that if you're not in a hurry.
My magnetic mat sticks better and in a hurry can quickly remove part with on scraper needed
I've been using 99% Iso alcohol to clean mine for months. A lot of websites have promoted it as well. What does it do that's bad? I've had no adhesion problems but I don't like the idea of ruining the print bed if I can avoid it.
New ender 3 V2 user here and I was getting pissed off at this bed. ONLY by trial and error did I figure it out after 2 weeks of skirts and initial layers not sticking. Your video here I WISH I had seen from the get go. BECAUSE you are 100% right in every damn thing you say in this video. Now I love this bed but using everyone's video on setup for the Ender 3 (not V2) did not work for me and I was getting SOOOOO frustrated. People that have a V2 need to see this video. Only Dawn dishwashing liquid worked for me PERIOD! Again everything you say in this video is 100% correct. I shared this on FB with 3D printing groups I am in and my own FB page.
THANK YOU for this very important video..
Thanks for the kind words and I'm glad to hear you've had the same results under the right conditions. And thanks for sharing this around as well. It's been a game changer for my 3D printing. All the best!
By the way for ALL Ender 3 V2 users or anyone with this bed. He is exactly right. When you do bed leveling, make the paper feeler test loose NOT tight! Looser is better for this bed. You will get frustrated to hell if you do bed leveling normally. It just does not work! In fact I found using a double thickness of paper works best. I found this by editing my Z offset little by little the hard way until I realized 2 pieces of paper with a tight feel worked best!
What's your source for not using alcohol on them? I've seen it recommended all over the place, so I'm curious where you found this info - it seems lots of people aren't aware of it.
For the Creality CR 6 SE, their manual actually said to use isopropyl alcohol.. But after a short while they started telling people that was a mistake and to not use that method.
I've seen and heard the same thing as you.. Tons of people say they use it and it's fine, and tons of others say it ruined their plates. Who knows!
@@nastoff22222 I took a look at mine and noted that it's definitely matte, rather than shiny, where I've wiped it with alcohol in the past.
So it clearly does something.
I guess the big question is whether the gloss is caused by a special coating, or residue/oil from manufacturing.
I’ve been using IPA for 2 years for cleaning my Anycubic i3 and haven’t noticed a difference…I also have an Ender 3 with direct drive and Wham Bam build plate that I use for printing filaments like TPU and Nylon since those stick really well to the Ultrabase plate and are a bit difficult to remove. There’s one method to remove them effortlessly, but it’s not environment friendly so I don’t use it anymore and also will not mention it here, just in case someone asks.
I bought the Creality CR10 glass "silicon carbon" bed for my custom CoreXY printer. I've noticed that if I use IPA then the tissue/rag seems to pick up grey deposit when I clean it so I guess it's slowly dissolving something (maybe the adhesive that's holding the coating to the glass?). So now I've started using soap or glass cleaner.
"Harndess" on the chart: how'd that happen?
So if this coating is 100% the level 9 hardness stuff, what does it matter if you scrape it with metal ?
It shouldn't be effected by any scraping with anything other then diamond if that was the case.
I've seen many of these beds scraped up over time, so something doesn't add up here...
First introduced by Anycubic!
What do you do if you've used alcohol and now the bed doesn't hold anything?
If you look through the comments, many are saying they always use alcohol with no issues but if that’s not the case for you, maybe it lost it’s grip? I’d try denatured alcohol or acetone as a last ditch effort.
Seems an interesting option to investigate. Getting parts to “stick” seems to be the holy grail for many 3D printing enthusiasts, generally those starting out with Chinese printers for which many provide “old style” or questionable quality print surfaces.
Rule of thumb. If a company doesn’t have the engineering expertise to provide a quality contemporary print surface they give you GLASS. It's also a ways fo “cheap out” like they do with giving you manual leveling sprung wheels to level your bed rather than even the most basic 3 point auto-bed leaving which has been in Marlin for a number of YEARs and cheap and EASY to implement.
It is not rocket science and if you're having regular problems then you need to examine what you're doing wrong. You're unlikely to be successful with this surface if you have not mastered manipulating your “Z” for each piece based on the characteristics of the surface, part design/positioning on bed, type of filament, print/bed temp, extrusion rate, etc.
If you've mastered the “Z” and understand the characteristics of that surface, you should be able to get your parts to stick to them wether glass, blue tape, PEI, etc. Then it becomes personal preference of what surface you like and want to work with.
Some “old timers” still love working with glass and Aqua Net for example. I love PEI and have never had issues over the years and can adjust the nature of its surface finish.
Understand the science behind “sticking” first before jumping from one surface to another.
I just bought this exact bed, and I'm trying to figure out why my experience is so different than yours. PLA doesn't stick to it at all without glue. My first layer height looks good. I've tried bed temperatures from 50 to 65 degrees. Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong?
Bed 60c, experiment a bit eith the first layer height and calibrate your esteps and flow
The newer ones are coming with a defective version of this bed that nothing sticks to. Was your bed more of a matte black and fairly smooth? If so that's the defective version. I have 4 different creality beds of this style and 2 where good and 2 where defective. Good version is gloss black and more of a rougher texture.
@@SputnikRSS1 Hey, I'm not sure if my bed is defective or not. Is there any other indication of the defective one such as logo/writing differences between a good and bad one? Hard to know if this bed is how you describe it. It is fairly matte and as smooth around 1000 grit sandpaper.
Thanks :)
@@PJPEE If you drag your fingernail across the surface does it leave a whiteish mark? As I noticed a couple of the defective ones I received had a kind of film on them.
@@SputnikRSS1 leaves a fairly faint mark, like on fine sand paper
Just to share my experience that are a bit of the opposite of the recommendations here.
I did not know about not using IPA to clean it. Having used my CR10 V2 for 2 years, i have however never had any issues using IPA.. And i do clean it before every single print with no exeptions.
I also primary print PETG on it. So far not a single issue either with releasing it. Just letting it cool down completely (sometimes speed that up in the freezer).... And it lifts right off every single time....
Now i am not saying that your rekommandations are wrong. Just sharing my personal experiences.
how much are offset nozzle high needed for petg? why you dont just say it?
Because it's not just a straight answer. His offset works for his setup, but more than likely wouldn't work for yours (could even be true with the same model printer). I guess he could have given a recommendation for a starting point, but he probably didn't think about it since this video is mainly about printing PLA on this type of bed.
Just Make the frist layer thicker in the slicer
yeah petg doesn't stick like at all on my ender 3 v2. have to use glue stick lol
(3d fuel) PLA3d870 or PLA Esun+ works well with ender3 v2
Nothing better than a layer of blue tape for PETG. Especially that PETG can bond with glass quite a lot.
I just use G10... works great.
Huh, I didn't realize I shouldn't be using PETG on my printer's carborundum bed. Guess I've been lucky, 'cause I've been able to print it just as well as PLA, without any (visible) damage.
Hey, if it ain’t broke…
What do you think is in your Windex?
I got the ender 3 V2 and could not get my prints to stick to the glass plate, so I got a pei sheet that I put on it.
The newer ones are coming with a defective version of this bed that nothing sticks to. Was your bed matte black and fairly smooth? If so that's the defective version. I have 4 different creality beds of this style and 2 where good and 2 where defective. Good version is gloss black and more of a rougher texture.
@@SputnikRSS1 it seems to have the micro circle coating on it but is pretty smooth.
@@jeremywp123 Is it a glossy black or a dull finish?
i was wondering why my bed not sticking anymore, now i know the culprit ;).
Well, my experience was exactly the opposite. Nothing was sticking in this surface. I ended up using the glass side alongside with some adhesive.
The newer ones are coming with a defective version of this bed that nothing sticks to. Was your bed more of a matte black and fairly smooth? If so that's the defective version. I have 4 different creality beds of this style and 2 where good and 2 where defective. Good version is gloss black and more of a rougher texture.
@@SputnikRSS1 Matte black and slightly rough texture here, it sticks a little bit but almost every time the filament sticks more to the nozzle than the surface
@@fdavpach This is exactly what was happening. Now with the adhesive it prints fine
2021, talking about problems to stick pla to the print surface... Maybe thats why 90% of 3d printers on the market are i3 style kinematics
I have been using IPA on my Creality ones and my Ultrabase one and Have had no adverse effects whatsoever, there is a lot of dodgy information floating around the 3D printing community, magnetic beds losing their magnetism over 80C, Chep disproved this, remove the two screws from MK8 hot ends, Creality said this was BS.
And before any smart-arse replies to tell me magnetism is affected by temperature "I Know It Is" just not at the temperatures we heat our beds to.
By the way, soap and water does not get that yellow gunk from the protective sheet off the bed, I gave the one-off my Ender 5 Plus an extra special wash as I could actually see the glue on the bed and the soap and water just moved it around a little but IPA took it straight off.
Yeah, the magnetism thing is BS, even people who should know better (eg Makers Muse) push that.
MOISTURE IS THE ENEMY OF PRINT STICKING - Want to remind you that moisture build up is a major culprit for prints not sticking to any surface. It's a virus that incrementally creeps up, is very subtle at the point when you can’t figure out why the “Z” you used just yesterday, doesn’t work today.
Ever wonder about those now bald, or shedding 3DP hobbyists who used to have luscious hair growth before they started? Moisture won the battle! :-)
Unless you store your filament in a strictly controlled environment, eventually you will have to deal with moisture. A large circular dehydrator motor/temp unit (like a NESCO) on top of a 5 gallon vented plastic bucket works great to eliminate moisture and allows you to dehydrate up to 5 1kg rolls at a time.
UK source for these products?
I use GeniusLink for my Amazon links so that it (hopefully) shows Amazon UK results. Did that work for you?
Sorry - just realized I replied from my other channel but this is Nils from the 3D Printing Zone.
Most knock-off window cleaners are made with IPA!!! Check the ingredients!!
Do you realize we have to watch 3 ads before this video even loads? If you get dislikes, this might be why...
Strange, I have that printer and the only way prints would properly stick to the bed was by using stick glue :(
Uhm not to spoil ze party - but isn’t GlassCleaner ™️ just alcohol with some juicy odors added? So cleaning it with alcohol does work seemingly!?
the 'hardness chart' is spelt wrongly @ 1:10.
I cannot get anything to stick to mine. Once I put a layer of glue stick, I didn't had a problem with things not sticking anymore.
That’s pretty odd. I assume you’ve tried adjusting the height of the bed in relation to your nozzle? Are you also printing the first layer at 0.3mm?
The problem I’ve had with them is the creality version is warped. I’ve bought 3 of them and all 3 are warped. If you use clips to hold it down it will only warp more. I ended up getting a silicone thermal pad and it holds the glass to the bed without clips. If you print on a small area of the bed no glue stick is needed. If you want to use a significant amount of the bed you have to use glue stick due to the warp of the glass. If I could find one not warped it would be my go to but the warping is a deal breaker. A glass bed with pei sheet works better
Wait isn't this the learn to dyi guy?
I didnt know you were not supposed to us alcohol on these beds. I've been using alcohol for months with no issues.
I was quite shocked to hear that you shouldn't use alcohol. Same I have had no issues, I guess I will make a mix of soapy water in a spray bottle next
I had to turn the plate around to print on the glass because nothing would stick, wasted money for me
It might be worth reaching out to Creality. From what I'm gathering, there has been a percentage of users that received bad beds - beds with a coating that is useless, while the rest of us are just loving these printer beds.
sorry but it took u 16 printers to find Carborundum bed??!?!
Nothing sticks to mine
I hope you understand I'm trying to rip on you but rather I'm feeling rather old. Were you around when Star Wars IV came out?
I wasn't - I was born in 1978. I just grew up in the Star Wars era, and really started to get into it as an adult in the IT world.