Finally, the video that explains suspension and behaviour related to changes. Thank you sir, the first time someone has explained the correlation of preload, rebound and damping. Brilliant work
I notice from your other videos you have a street triple r. Excellent choice for a real road bike. Plenty fast enough and grunty too. I guess you're an engineer of sorts. You have a way of communicating that simplifies things without sounding patronising. Well done sir
Thank you for you kind and positive feedback. I looked far and wide for a video to help me when I first started playing Ride 4, and a 'decent' one simply didn't exist. It's a bit rough around the edges as I'd never done anything like it before, but I guess communicates what I hoped it would well enough. I will do an updated version for the more tricky bikes, but I'm fighting the 8, 12 & 24 hour races at the minute. Thanks again for your feedback and support, it is very much appreciated 👍👍
I did have a Triumph, it was a 1050cc Speed Triple R, it was way too fast to be sensible on and it has now been moved on. You are too kind, an engineer I am most definitely not, well not in any official capacity anyway. I do enjoy a good tinker and I have a need to understand 'how' things work, especially motorcycle suspension systems. As for my communication skills, I have no clue as to where that comes from. With the UA-cam stuff, I just try to make it logical and not overly complicated, which is difficult as I do love to talk, a lot 🤣🤣
Thankyou this video has been a huge help! Helped me work out a base setting that I can work with! Before hand I was struggling with the handling of the bikes and being well off the pace and when I adjusted any thing I seemed make it worse! This means I finally started enjoy the game
You are very welcome buddy, I'm glad it's still helping people work the settings out and enjoy the game. A little tweak here or there can sometimes get you a second a lap. 👍👍✌️
What a legend... Not only he's explaining us the real meaning of the suspension settings in the game but also in real life. God bless mate! Amazing video. And not even gonna talk on how you ride because that's also amazing. By the way I have that same bike in real life also videos with it doing some crazy stuff haha
I know this is an old post but THANKS A LOT. I have left shoulder surgery and can really use my left arm much so I decided to try MOTO 4 since it was on sale. But I was crashing left and right……until I found your videos and now I’m having a blast. I Thank you sir a lot.🙏
You are very welcome buddy, doesn't matter how old it is if it still works. Ride4 is a great game, better than Ride5 I feel. The only real change I made after that video, was to set the REBOUND to half of the COMPRESSION setting. So if your front compression is 8, set you front rebound to 4. Do the same on the rear, so 2 compression would be 1 rebound etc. Worth a second a lap on most tracks, best advice a subscriber ever gave me, so if you ever come across Rafa Lobo, say thanks. 👍👍👍
This covers everything so well and u actually explain what everything does and how to know if u need to change it and most videos just give u their numbers without explaining any of it thank you your video helped me so much
This might be the best setup video I've seen for Ride. I've tried other videos and I've gotten some little gains here and there but after watching this. (I still come back to this for different bike setups) I've gained almost 4 seconds on my favorite track (Suzuka GP!) went from doing high 207's to low 204's and sometimes dipping into the high 203's. Fantastic video my friend, I will continue to use this as a reference as I try different bikes. I always found Ducati's odd to ride in this game but this video helped me make the V4R much more stable and much more fun to use. Thank you!
Hi Chris, thank you for you kind feedback, it is very much appreciated. Oh and thank you to you, for watching and commenting, it really does make it worthwhile. I'm glad you found it helpful, keep an eye out for more set-up videos coming along soon 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Of course! It was a very informative video to watch and watching you steadily make changes and see the gains bit by bit was what really helped bring it all home for me. Looking forward to future videos man!
@@MotoMartino79 just saying credit where credit is due know you spent a lot of time researching just grateful you shared relevant information moto Martin were a frame made for Japanese fours from memory they didn't flex the wrong way
@@allansivula3669 you are way ahead of me on the frame knowledge there buddy. I know some Japanese stuff in the 70s & 80s was a bit bendy, and not in a good way. That's why so many custom frame builders like Spondon etc came to be. Whether stuff flexed the wrong way, I have no clue, but it wouldn't surprise me 👍✌
Excellent video! I was having such a hard time translating real world experience with bikes to this game but it makes so much more sense with your breakdown
Thanks for the positive feedback, and thank you for watching and commenting. I'm glad the video helped. Once you know what does what, you can work out a decent tune for most bikes pretty quickly. 👍✌️
Great video and insights!! Because I don't race anymore I actually get a lot of satisfaction out of this game especially because I use helmet cam 100% of the time. Racing Road Atlanta feels exactly like it did in real life, brake points, transitions, even the dip that unsettles the bike at T1 entry.
You're a better player than me if you're using the helmet cam, I'm 100% rubbish using it. The lack of head movement does for me, need a bit more visual information to feel right. Glad you enjoy Ride4, it's still the high water mark console wise for racing games, despite a lot of people not liking it. I think the difficulty puts people of, yeah right, because riding a street bike at 100% is a walk in the park in real life....... 👍✌️
Fantastic Video! Thank You. you break information down in a way that's easy to consume. Edit* made adjustments to my RRR-SP and managed to tune the instability, and understeer out of the suspension.
Big Thumbs Up for this one mate. Thoroughly enjoyed watching and listening to the expertise, also in the Real World!! Looking forward to binge-watching your videos!
Dude! Your video helped me sooo much, Thx mate! I was starting to doubt myself because of the setup description in the game and the conflicting results on the track :D
You are very welcome Dave, I'm glad it helped. I've done a ton of videos for individual bike set-ups since then, so if you're after something specific have a mooch about. If you can't find it or I've not done it, just holler and I'll be able to put something together within a couple of days to help you out. 👍👍✌
Tks i can now gas more on my r1m while exiting the corner. My bike used to spin out due to the soft rear suspension, now when I press the throttle harder the rear wheel can bring out little power slide and never spins out which brings me more confidence! Great thanks!! :) I’ll adjust my EM version of r1m later. The r1m-EM has soft rear suspension either.
Having dampers adjustments ‘backwards’ is common in car sim racing games-i.e. so that more ‘compression’ is indeed more compression. IDK why specifically, but I guess game authors came to conclusion that it's simpler this way, though it does necessitate a reversal from actual physics when learning about setups. Anyway, in the end I have to figure out for each game whether ‘more’ means more compression/rebound or more damping, and then keep notes for when I switch between games. However, there's no question that Milestone were sloppy with all this. Particularly the descriptions, which barely say anything-just like in previous games.
100% agree with you bud. There's a certain amount of artistic licence when it come to suspension adjustments in games. I know they're on a budget, but the descriptions really don't cost anything at all to get right. Took me a long time to get my brain around how it all worked, Very little in common with actual motorcycle suspension adjustments. 👍✌️
@@MotoMartino79 Coincidentally, in MotoGP 14 on Vita and maybe on PC, there was a whole section with the ‘mechanic’ in the setup-actually just a bunch of text screens-with the explanations and advice on the various adjustments. I keep meaning to screenshot all those texts and see if there's anything useful in them, though most probably it's the usual Milestone's “this makes the bike turn better, but less stable” and “this makes the bike more stable, but harder to turn”. One exception, though, is the preload height: all the games usually mention that more height means better lean angle, so more speed can be carried through the corners. I'm curious as to whether you found the height to help on any tracks. It seemed to help me gain some speed on Mosport/Canadian Tire in the tests in Ride 4. Also, the MotoGP games have some fancy adjustments on top of the bog-standard spring hardness and dampers-like steering head inclination; steering plate position; rear swingarm length. I'm yet to figure out what these do, and why the steering head inclination is separate from the trail. If you know stuff about these parameters, a vid about them would be appreciated.
I tend not too change the gearing too much if at all. I guess that's where the extra few tenths a lap are. I shall have a look see and report back if I find anything of note 👍👍
@@GanimeadMusic mmm I suspect it will just mean more gear changing on the bigger bikes for a small return. Might make a difference on the smaller stuff, but like you say nowt major 🤔
good stuff bruv xx, gonna get tweeking...managed to bag a couple wins online but been struggling on most tracks but only got Ride 4 yesterday so early days, still finding my feet
Ran it on realistic physics, all I needed was to turn off the driving line bcuz it honestly destroys your line and confidence along with it. I run a lot of Gran Turismo and I know to be fast you have to utilize the entire track, the driving line doesn’t do that. I turned it off and used the rubber put down to guide me. Also on some tracks, there are white lines on the grass, that is your turn in point. The weight transfer of the rider is the biggest game changer, I always overshot, even following the driving line. Realistic physics is also great. At first I ran AI at 50% and I was usually 2 seconds ahead, now with the change, I’m 20+ seconds off. The suspension tuning takes time but once I know how I like my setups it’ll be easy.
Absolutely buddy, the racing line takes all your attention, you did the right thing turning it off 👏. Take your time, don't rush, pick a track you know and set the bike up how you want, that way you are concentrating on the bike not where the track goes. Took me ages and many many races to start upping the AI, they are mean fast on 120% 👌👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 already at 99% AI. I absolutely destroy them with the R6, stock and RM. I’m better with the chase cam as I can see further and seeing the rider helps with positioning for the next corner. I’ve been using a setup i found and only touching the hardness for tire temps.
Which game setting do you think most correlates with a quicker turn-in? The biggest problem I had with RIDE games was a slow turn-in. IRL, lowering the forks or swapping to shorter links at the rear, would make it more nimble. But on all the previous RIDE games, I would max out all suspension setting at 10 & get better results (not necessarily best), to achieve a higher ride height for a lower in-game lean angle, allowing for a faster cornering speed, at the cost of greater tendency to wheelie. I didn’t mind sacrificing my stability because I learned to be so smooth, I could handle it with no aids whatsoever except minimal anti-wheelie on literbikes.
Hi Konrad, thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it. The question you have posed is still the hardest to answer with RIDE games, and you are 100% correct in what you have said. For road bikes, making everything '10' will give you a faster reacting bike, at the potential expense of ultimate lap or race time. Because of the way the in-game physics work, there is no one solution I'm afraid, there has to be a compromise somewhere depending on what you are trying to achieve. It might be a case of analysing what makes a bike react more quickly in the real world and then try to apply that in game. So wheelbase (shorter), height of centre of gravity (higher), tyre profile (steeper) and fork rake & trail (less of both) all effect how a real bike would handle, obviously outside of having the suspension correctly adjusted for rider weight, but we'll assume that has been done in this instance. The question is can we mimic that in game, well yes and no. Wheelbase, that's easy, just jack the rear preload right up and we get a higher centre of gravity for free as well. Tyre profile is tougher, the only option we have is to run a harder compound, which will keep its shape more and allow a more softly sprung front end, again moving the centre of gravity forwards and hopefully reducing understeer as well. The fork rake & trail is the hard one, on a real bike I'd just drop the yolks down the forks but we can't do that in game. The only way to get a lower front end is to drop the preload, and there's the compromise I was talking about. You could get really deep and start trying to identify certain bikes that handle more in the way you want, such as Ducati Panigale's and most of the naked stuff (shorter wheelbase), but I'd avoid Aprilia's and the cross plane crank R1s (longer wheelbase). Race bikes are a bit easier as we can adjust the rake and trail settings and from what you've said, I'd put them to 0 (zero) and see how you go. Apologies for the long reply, but it's such a subjective area of the game. One man's muck is another man's money and all that. It's all about finding your sweet spot, with not just the settings but maybe a certain bike or type of bike as well. I really hope this helps buddy, but please let me know how you get on either way. Take care, stay safe 👍👍✌
I went through all the same infinite process yet somehow arrived at different conclusions for all the elevation changes at Laguna Seca. Electronics are going to be different for every bike. Preload is anti dive, like a dampener for when the game runs you over. Hardness affects both stability and tire wear. I like both shock absorbers to be equal to reduce speed wobble. All my settings are fairly high except front hardness and rear preload as I don't mind wheelies and wiggles so much as speed wobbles. My suspension is quite high to carry more corner speed. Suspension settings are never quite finished. I just like to give regular updates on my perspective
If only the ai would let me drive like this easy on the tires , it’s like their tire temperature stays green threw out the race to keep up with them an maintaining tires is impossible
For a complete newbie like me, what should I choose ride3 with more content(also cheaper) or ride4 with more realistic graphics and handling? 🤔 I don't know anything about bike handling, but I love bike games, or anything with bikes
Mmmm, I would probably go straight for Ride 4. I found that Ride 3 was a huge game but was very samey and the physics and graphics were not great. Ride 4 is beautiful and the physics are much better. Don't worry about the handling, there are plenty of videos about how to set stuff up. If you wanna keep in simple just use this, if the tyre is hot increase the spring hardness, if the tyre is cold decrease the spring hardness. 👍👍
I think your video explains it very well, but I have not seen any video explaining RIDE4 in such detail as you do on the Chinese network. I think they need such a video, can I share it on the Chinese network?
Hi Bryan, I am merely a student of life and hard knocks. I have an inquisitive mind and curious thumbs. If I can take it apart I will. If I can twiddle it, I'll go all the way left then all the way right. I guess it's a desire to understand how and why things work, if I can improve the experience at the same time, brilliant. With motorcycle suspension, it was a case of needs must as a motorcycle was my only form of transport for a good few years. Being a mid 90s Kawasaki ZX-7R, the suspension was rather firm, especially the rear, so I just took it apart and then looked at how it could be improved for the road (I tend not to ride on track if I can avoid it). If I made any changes that didn't work, I made a note and went to opposite way. Transferring that knowledge to RIDE4 was a challenge, as the control points are limited to 2 sticks, and the physics is limited to a certain extent. Once I'd figured out how to keep the tyres warm, so began the never-ending quest for the perfect 'feel' from the game. Trial and error I suppose, just with a few more moving parts!! 👍👍✌
Moto Martino, I got this game at Xmas for the Xbox one, I loved the bikes, the sound of the bikes, the tracks etc etc. However having to set up the suspension on every bike to get the best performance is horrendous...can you give me a simple guide on how to adjust the suspension to stop my bikes running wide on the corners or turning too tight into the corners...??. Also a guide about rake and trail would be good, I know what they are but trying to set it up is just mind bending...! By the way I used your guide on the Ducati 916 and it handles like a dream. But even with suspension set up on a lot of the big tracks, even with the AI on the easiest setting they are just leaving me for dead, on the Algarve track I was 28 secs behind the winner...? Am I riding the bike wrong??? I've used your set up guide and it helps a lot. (I'm a 52 Yr old biker, had various sports bikes, but now I'm trying to slow down a bit I ride a Yamaha XJR1300..!) Keep up these videos cos I can't afford to smash any more controllers or TV's Cheers Bro..!
Hi Paul, thanks for watching and commenting, it's very much appreciated. Welcome to Ride4, and all the pleasure and pain that comes with it!! I'll try to answer as much as I can, but the best thing you can do is play the game. Practice makes perfect as they say, and you'll need a whole heap of practice on this. Before I answer you questions above, try and forget everything you know about suspension in the real world, it matters not a bloody jot in Ride4. Christ knows who they got to do the physics model, but it's arse about face, backwards and upside down at best. 🤣👍 Bikes running wide - this is normally down to a couple of things; 1 - front preload setting is too high. Take a couple of clicks off the front preload (move the adjuster left). This may cause the front tyre to overheat (colour will be orange or red if it does), to compensate for this increase front spring hardness and front compression and rebound by the same number of clicks you reduced the front preload. So -1 click on preload = +1 click on all other front suspension settings. 2 - forks are bottoming out. Add clicks to the front spring hardness and front compression and rebound until you can see feel the bike almost picking the rear wheel off the floor under heavy braking. Making sure you have the vibrate function activated on the controller is critical to this. As you near the limit of grip, the controller will vibrate. The nearer the limit, the stronger the vibration. ABS will reduce this slightly, so have a practice with the ABS on and off to see which you prefer. I tend to run ABS off as the game isn't too bad even in the wet. 3 - engine braking setting too low. At first I viewed the additional electronics settings available in the game as a bit of a cheat or a fanny's way of playing. It took me ages to realise they are integral to the way you extract a quick lap time from a bike. When you get on the brakes, you want the rear of the bike to just step out of line. If the engine braking is too low it won't move, too high and it will spit you sideways and flick you off rather quickly. Each bike likes something different and the game doesn't remember the setting for each bike, just the last setting you used. So for example, the Ducati 916 will probably need engine braking 1 or 2, where as a Yamaha R6 will need engine braking 3. The developers have mapped the different engine characteristics quite well in most cases, so real world knowledge will help here. Bikes turning too tight. (road bikes) On a closed or neutral throttle this will be too much rear preload. Take 1 click off at a time until you have calmed the bike down. If the bike is over rotating as you get on the gas the rear spring hardness and rear comp & rebound setting are too high. Too stiff a rear end transfers all lateral load into the tyre and it move sideways instead of forwards. Softening the rear may induce wheelies, but offset this by taking 1 click off rear preload until you find a compromise. Compromise is the key word I'm afraid mate, everything you change will have a reaction elsewhere, you just have to find a groove you are happy with and then make fine adjustments around it. Bikes turning too tight. (race bikes) All of the above is applicable, but you can increase the rake and trail setting to slow the way the bike reacts down. If I'm struggling with a race, I tend to take the bike to a fast track like Magny-Cours or UMC Outer and dial a set-up in. Then I'll go back to the track in question and use Time-trial mode to just tweak that initial set-up and make sure it fits the track where I'm struggling. I know it's a ball ache, but that's the price we pay for a fairly robust bike game that actually feels something akin to the real thing. Worst case scenario, let me know what race / track / bike you are having bother with and I can get a set-up to you on here fairly sharpish. 👍👍👍👍✌
You're not playing the game wrong at all, it just takes a bit of time that's all. I've just finished an 8 hour race at Laguna Seca in last, over a lap down. Sometimes you just pick the wrong bike, or the set-up is all to cock 🤣👍✌
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoyed it. Right, the Southern 100 possibly, Ulster GP erm do I have to? I don't mind the Southern 100 course despite only having ever done 2 clean laps there ever. The Ulster is a different beast, I detest the place, couldn't even tell you which way it went. All joking aside, I've got a fair chunk of free time over Xmas, so I'll have a look at the very least. Thanks again for watching and commenting, I really do appreciate it 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Haha you can do it the Ulster track is brilliant I love all the road layouts they feel special and yes completely different beast to a flat circuit. S100 is probably my favourite.
I have been coming back to this vid for 3days now. For some reason I'm still confuse on why my bike always highside or overshoots. I followed your tips on how to properly tune and still very confused after trying so many options. I'm on kawasaki ninja zx10rr RM.
can you pls make a vid how get better top speed bc i have litterly the same moto as others but they go like 180 mph i i only go 155mph how i fix that lik pls tuturial for gear settings
Hi Dan, I'm working on a gearing video now, but before that is done a couple of questions. Are you hitting the rev limiter or are you just stopping at 155 mph with revs left? What setting have you got for 'auto tuck in' setting menu? Could be that you have it switched off and you need to tuck in manually. I use 'auto' as it's just easier. 👍👍✌
Here's a question for you... Did you find that you were more tuned to twiddling with the dials on your bikes (IRL and in game) after you started mountain biking or more? The moment you start adjusting for rebound and compression for different sorts of trail conditions and terrain, the quicker you get your head around the effects and impact of the adjustments. I was totally expecting you to say "you just need two clicks... and you're on your way to winning at inters!" It almost feels like "when Dave Moss Tuning uses a game to explain"
Buddy when I started mountain biking, there were no adjusters, or forks with more than 40mm of travel 🤣🤣🤣. All joking aside, it was my early years on motorbikes that got me twiddling. Little 400cc 4-strokes had to handle to keep up with the bigger kids on their R6s and 918 'blades. I try to look at it as cause and effect, both IRL and on RIDE4. The methodologies don't translate across at all really, but once I realised that it helped me understand the physics on RIDE4 in more detail. I'm a sod for twiddling IRL, static sag is king in my world, plus little zip ties on the fork lowers. Use the suspension to switch the tyre on and you'll be good. My wife loves it I'm sure......... Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate everyone that does. Take care bud, stay safe, peace ✌️
@@MotoMartino79 If I can have my time again, I'd love to get reunited with my old ZXR250C and actually have that thing set up for the British B roads. The good old 33bhp days with your buddies on NC29s and NC30s. I'm with you on the static sag though. Once you get your preload set on your bike or you've got the right spring rate/air pressure in your shocks/fork, it makes a massive difference.
@@MotoMartino79 Kids these days will never know the joys of putting in Silkolene FST into their ZX6R-F's when you know you had to do a run down the M1 on a crisp and clear winter's morning at 3°C. But hey ho, E10 will kill the carbs for sure if the material's selection wasn't up to scratch for the elastomers.
@@Titot182 mmmmm FST 🤣🤣 I always used to throw a bit of Hot Shot octane boost in on really cold days!!! Please stop, you're making me feel old, you'll be telling me you used to buy bikes from Clay Cross Powersports next!!!! 🤣🤣
Which track is useful when it comes to trial and error of the suspensions? Which tire should I choose if I’m on a RM or EM bike(no stock tires) while testing the suspension? Should I try medium or hard? Tks, and have a nice day!
Any track you enjoy and can learn intimately. If you know the track you can concentrate on the bike and what it's doing. My top 3 are Magny-Cours, UMC Outer and Phillip Island, mainly because they are fast and put big loads through the tyres. On RM & EM bikes, I'd start with a medium tyre and see how the tyre builds temperature. If it runs a little cold move to a soft, if it runs hot move to a hard. Remember to change one thing at a time, then test it. 2 clicks harder on the front spring rate will move a fair bit of energy and temperature into the rear tyre, so if you soften the rear at the same time, you might overheat it. Thank you for watching and getting in touch. Have a good day, a great weekend and stay safe 👍👍✌
Welcome aboard Nic, thanks for the sub, it's very much appreciated. If you're unsure on anything, just holler, more than happy to help if I can. Thanks again. 👍👍👍✌
Hi, im from malaysia.. I wanna ask what to do when rear tire still not warm enough (green/blue) .. Even using soft tire.. Can you advise? Thanks a lot.
Hi from the UK, I hope you are safe and well. For a cold rear tyre there are 3 things you can do; 1 - reduce the TC (traction control) level. 2 - reduce the rear spring hardness & increase the front spring hardness, but only by one click at a time. This will provide more support for the front tyre and move energy towards the rear of the bike. 3 - if you are using a light bike like a 250cc or 300cc, reduce all the settings to zero (all the way to the left) apart from the rear preload +2 from the left and front spring hardness +2/3 from the left. You have to adjust things one at a time to see what helps increase the tyre temperature for your riding style. If the front tyre starts to get cold, use a softer compound to compensate but this might move energy back towards the front of the bike and you may have to readjust the suspension again. If you are still struggling, let me know the bike, circuit and weather conditions, and I will do a video showing you the settings I use. Sometimes no matter what I do the tyres are always blue, especially with the smaller lighter bikes. Hope this helps. 👍👍
I need help with gear tuning. I can have a 3 sec lead than I hit the straight and the AI bikes flight right by me. Everytime I hit 5 gear on every bike it just drops speed. I don't think I have ever been to 6 gear. Idk if it's just the game or what can anyone please help me
Before we look at the gear tuning, what setting did you have 'rider tuck in on? Sounds like you have it on manual, switch it to auto and that should help your top speed. 👍👍
You just got a new sub for the help. It was the auto tuck that has a bug. I am much happier with the game now. I ain't got to play 80% no longer I can turn it up to a 120
Have a look here buddy - ua-cam.com/video/D72Z1YEeFeU/v-deo.html 2:03 for the VIR North feedback. (on the linked video, not this one 👍) 2:19 for the actual set-up I used. I ran a medium front and a soft rear, but the set-up will let you use soft for both if you want. 👍👍✌
Here is my first attempt following this suspension video (Will do some more adjustments later) thanks for the guide: ua-cam.com/video/BcaUz9UD7cg/v-deo.html
@@MotoMartino79 that's like a whole Saturday evening trying to get it right w/o crashing. I'm hoping to be somewhat this close in irl. I do t have an R6 tho I have a cbr500R and I have been in this track before as a spectator. Hopefully I Can get an sv650 used next season for track day purposes irl. Cheers
Press the D-pad left and right & you will see in the bottom right corner of the screen a menu scrolling through tyres, anti wheelie, engine braking and traction control. When you are on AW, EB or TCS you press the D-pad up or down to increase / decrease that setting. AW-0 is good for smaller less powerful bikes. AW-1 is good for 600cc - 900cc ish. AW-2 is good for everything else. AW-3 will just stop the bike accelerating forwards. You can also push forwards on the left thumb stick to move the riders weight forwards to counter and front wheel lift in the lower AW settings.
In regards to the buttons, triggers or control sticks? Buttons and triggers are non adjustable on xbox in game, control sticks I don't know about? You trying to slow them down or speed them up?
I don't see why it shouldn't. At the very least you'll be able to get a base setting that you can then tweak to suit you. I'm not sure if the physics engine is the same, but I assume that it is. 👍👍👍
For me it's the PS4. I'm hoping the mechanics are the same. I'm riding a 2017 Goldwing in real life. I had a 2006 Honda VTX1300 S(R) which you can tell from my videos.
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's really appreciated 👍. This might not help you win, but the bike will handle lovely if you apply what the video talks about. I've got loads more set-up videos in the works, so stay tuned 👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Ya I have trouble with that too. Every ai bike is faster than mine no matter what bike I have would could have the same bike and they fly right by me it's been pissing me off so bad. Do you think there is something wrong with my game and I need to try download it again?
@@stephenwilliams7200 if you have the tuck in setting on auto, and they still blast past you might have a sticky brake button. Are any of the red brake bars lighting up in the bottom right of the screen next to the tyre box?
@@MotoMartino79 lol I just looked that up and I had it set on auto but people say that there's a bug in the game that it doesn't Auto tuck in so now that I'm tucking in my bikes are fast as hell now.. thanks alot man
I feel you buddy, it's so frustrating sometimes. I hope the video helps, I try to show my set-up for each race before it starts, so if you're stuck to have a look at it should hopefully give you a base setting to work from 👍
You just have to use them and see how they heat the tyres up. As a general rule I use a 2 & 8 set up as follows: Preload - F2 / R8 Spring Hardness - F8 / R2 Spring Compression - F8 / R2 Spring Rebound - F4 / R1 Use MEDIUM tyres front and rear, and then change them depending on whether they get too hot or too cold. A cold SOFT tyre is worse than a hot HARD tyre. Tyre heat is the key to grip using the SPRING settings. if you want to change the way the bike reacts to controller input, play about with the PRELOAD settings. 👍👍✌
Finally, the video that explains suspension and behaviour related to changes. Thank you sir, the first time someone has explained the correlation of preload, rebound and damping. Brilliant work
I notice from your other videos you have a street triple r. Excellent choice for a real road bike. Plenty fast enough and grunty too. I guess you're an engineer of sorts. You have a way of communicating that simplifies things without sounding patronising. Well done sir
Thank you for you kind and positive feedback. I looked far and wide for a video to help me when I first started playing Ride 4, and a 'decent' one simply didn't exist. It's a bit rough around the edges as I'd never done anything like it before, but I guess communicates what I hoped it would well enough. I will do an updated version for the more tricky bikes, but I'm fighting the 8, 12 & 24 hour races at the minute. Thanks again for your feedback and support, it is very much appreciated 👍👍
I did have a Triumph, it was a 1050cc Speed Triple R, it was way too fast to be sensible on and it has now been moved on. You are too kind, an engineer I am most definitely not, well not in any official capacity anyway. I do enjoy a good tinker and I have a need to understand 'how' things work, especially motorcycle suspension systems. As for my communication skills, I have no clue as to where that comes from. With the UA-cam stuff, I just try to make it logical and not overly complicated, which is difficult as I do love to talk, a lot 🤣🤣
Thankyou this video has been a huge help! Helped me work out a base setting that I can work with! Before hand I was struggling with the handling of the bikes and being well off the pace and when I adjusted any thing I seemed make it worse! This means I finally started enjoy the game
You are very welcome buddy, I'm glad it's still helping people work the settings out and enjoy the game. A little tweak here or there can sometimes get you a second a lap. 👍👍✌️
Lots of great info here, this video should have thousands of views for what it’s worth!
Thanks Tom, I absolutely agree with you 🤣🤣👍
Thanks for this video!! I just made the adjustments to my S1000RR and she rides like a dream! Recorded my first fastest lap ever on GP Circuit.
You are very welcome, glad it helped 👍👍
What a legend... Not only he's explaining us the real meaning of the suspension settings in the game but also in real life. God bless mate! Amazing video. And not even gonna talk on how you ride because that's also amazing. By the way I have that same bike in real life also videos with it doing some crazy stuff haha
Thank you, I enjoyed making it. There'll be another one along soon to talk about the changes to the handling model, and how best to use them. 👍👍
I know this is an old post but THANKS A LOT. I have left shoulder surgery and can really use my left arm much so I decided to try MOTO 4 since it was on sale. But I was crashing left and right……until I found your videos and now I’m having a blast. I Thank you sir a lot.🙏
You are very welcome buddy, doesn't matter how old it is if it still works. Ride4 is a great game, better than Ride5 I feel.
The only real change I made after that video, was to set the REBOUND to half of the COMPRESSION setting. So if your front compression is 8, set you front rebound to 4. Do the same on the rear, so 2 compression would be 1 rebound etc. Worth a second a lap on most tracks, best advice a subscriber ever gave me, so if you ever come across Rafa Lobo, say thanks. 👍👍👍
@@MotoMartino79 one question…which game you feel is better, Ride 5 or MotoGP 2023?
This covers everything so well and u actually explain what everything does and how to know if u need to change it and most videos just give u their numbers without explaining any of it thank you your video helped me so much
This might be the best setup video I've seen for Ride. I've tried other videos and I've gotten some little gains here and there but after watching this. (I still come back to this for different bike setups) I've gained almost 4 seconds on my favorite track (Suzuka GP!) went from doing high 207's to low 204's and sometimes dipping into the high 203's. Fantastic video my friend, I will continue to use this as a reference as I try different bikes. I always found Ducati's odd to ride in this game but this video helped me make the V4R much more stable and much more fun to use. Thank you!
Hi Chris, thank you for you kind feedback, it is very much appreciated. Oh and thank you to you, for watching and commenting, it really does make it worthwhile. I'm glad you found it helpful, keep an eye out for more set-up videos coming along soon 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Of course! It was a very informative video to watch and watching you steadily make changes and see the gains bit by bit was what really helped bring it all home for me. Looking forward to future videos man!
@@chrisgardner6249 you are very welcome buddy. The Sub has 100% got you onto Santa's good list 🤣🤣👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Hahaha! Appreciate that, I think you deserve far more subs than just my one man! Hope you get many more!
It didn't make sense before appreciate the heads up on this area easy to understand guidance thankyou saved a lot of stress and countless hours
You are very welcome, I'm glad it's helped.
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's very much appreciated.
@@MotoMartino79 just saying credit where credit is due know you spent a lot of time researching just grateful you shared relevant information moto Martin were a frame made for Japanese fours from memory they didn't flex the wrong way
@@allansivula3669 you are way ahead of me on the frame knowledge there buddy. I know some Japanese stuff in the 70s & 80s was a bit bendy, and not in a good way. That's why so many custom frame builders like Spondon etc came to be. Whether stuff flexed the wrong way, I have no clue, but it wouldn't surprise me 👍✌
Excellent video! I was having such a hard time translating real world experience with bikes to this game but it makes so much more sense with your breakdown
Thanks for the positive feedback, and thank you for watching and commenting. I'm glad the video helped. Once you know what does what, you can work out a decent tune for most bikes pretty quickly. 👍✌️
True heroes don’t wear capes! Legend!
🤣🤣 I best take it off then, and stop saying 'I'M BATMAN!!'.
Cheers buddy, much appreciated. 👍✌️
Great video and insights!! Because I don't race anymore I actually get a lot of satisfaction out of this game especially because I use helmet cam 100% of the time. Racing Road Atlanta feels exactly like it did in real life, brake points, transitions, even the dip that unsettles the bike at T1 entry.
You're a better player than me if you're using the helmet cam, I'm 100% rubbish using it. The lack of head movement does for me, need a bit more visual information to feel right.
Glad you enjoy Ride4, it's still the high water mark console wise for racing games, despite a lot of people not liking it. I think the difficulty puts people of, yeah right, because riding a street bike at 100% is a walk in the park in real life....... 👍✌️
Fantastic Video! Thank You. you break information down in a way that's easy to consume. Edit* made adjustments to my RRR-SP and managed to tune the instability, and understeer out of the suspension.
Thank you very much. The positive feedback is much appreciated 👍
Big Thumbs Up for this one mate. Thoroughly enjoyed watching and listening to the expertise, also in the Real World!! Looking forward to binge-watching your videos!
You are very welcome buddy, glad you enjoyed it. I would recommend some popcorn and possibly a few alcoholic beverages 👍👍🤣🤣
Dude! Your video helped me sooo much, Thx mate! I was starting to doubt myself because of the setup description in the game and the conflicting results on the track :D
You are very welcome Dave, I'm glad it helped.
I've done a ton of videos for individual bike set-ups since then, so if you're after something specific have a mooch about.
If you can't find it or I've not done it, just holler and I'll be able to put something together within a couple of days to help you out. 👍👍✌
Tks i can now gas more on my r1m while exiting the corner. My bike used to spin out due to the soft rear suspension, now when I press the throttle harder the rear wheel can bring out little power slide and never spins out which brings me more confidence! Great thanks!! :)
I’ll adjust my EM version of r1m later. The r1m-EM has soft rear suspension either.
No worries, glad you got it sorted. The R1M is a fantastic bike, once you've sorted the suspension 👍👍👍
these vids are awesome! keep up the good work and keep the tires spinning!
Damn the most thorough help someone has done for this game, thanks, it helped me a tonne!
You're very welcome buddy 👍👍✌
Having dampers adjustments ‘backwards’ is common in car sim racing games-i.e. so that more ‘compression’ is indeed more compression. IDK why specifically, but I guess game authors came to conclusion that it's simpler this way, though it does necessitate a reversal from actual physics when learning about setups. Anyway, in the end I have to figure out for each game whether ‘more’ means more compression/rebound or more damping, and then keep notes for when I switch between games.
However, there's no question that Milestone were sloppy with all this. Particularly the descriptions, which barely say anything-just like in previous games.
100% agree with you bud. There's a certain amount of artistic licence when it come to suspension adjustments in games. I know they're on a budget, but the descriptions really don't cost anything at all to get right.
Took me a long time to get my brain around how it all worked, Very little in common with actual motorcycle suspension adjustments. 👍✌️
@@MotoMartino79 Coincidentally, in MotoGP 14 on Vita and maybe on PC, there was a whole section with the ‘mechanic’ in the setup-actually just a bunch of text screens-with the explanations and advice on the various adjustments. I keep meaning to screenshot all those texts and see if there's anything useful in them, though most probably it's the usual Milestone's “this makes the bike turn better, but less stable” and “this makes the bike more stable, but harder to turn”.
One exception, though, is the preload height: all the games usually mention that more height means better lean angle, so more speed can be carried through the corners. I'm curious as to whether you found the height to help on any tracks. It seemed to help me gain some speed on Mosport/Canadian Tire in the tests in Ride 4.
Also, the MotoGP games have some fancy adjustments on top of the bog-standard spring hardness and dampers-like steering head inclination; steering plate position; rear swingarm length. I'm yet to figure out what these do, and why the steering head inclination is separate from the trail. If you know stuff about these parameters, a vid about them would be appreciated.
My man, you really have what it takes to properly explain stuff. Amazing and really insightful video!
Cheers buddy, I really appreciate it. Glad you liked it. 👍👍✌
Very interesting study that I will follow religiously. I also have problems working with transmission settings 😊
I tend not too change the gearing too much if at all. I guess that's where the extra few tenths a lap are. I shall have a look see and report back if I find anything of note 👍👍
I have experimented a bit with Final Ratio but it didn't make much difference for me if any 😊
@@GanimeadMusic mmm I suspect it will just mean more gear changing on the bigger bikes for a small return. Might make a difference on the smaller stuff, but like you say nowt major 🤔
This video is so underrated
Well maybe slightly.............🤣🤣
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's much appreciated.
good stuff bruv xx, gonna get tweeking...managed to bag a couple wins online but been struggling on most tracks but only got Ride 4 yesterday so early days, still finding my feet
Winning online after a couple of days, well done buddy, the game ain't easy that's for sure. 👍✌️
@@MotoMartino79 I crash a lot, then tweek the bike a bit more love it
Ran it on realistic physics, all I needed was to turn off the driving line bcuz it honestly destroys your line and confidence along with it. I run a lot of Gran Turismo and I know to be fast you have to utilize the entire track, the driving line doesn’t do that. I turned it off and used the rubber put down to guide me. Also on some tracks, there are white lines on the grass, that is your turn in point. The weight transfer of the rider is the biggest game changer, I always overshot, even following the driving line. Realistic physics is also great. At first I ran AI at 50% and I was usually 2 seconds ahead, now with the change, I’m 20+ seconds off. The suspension tuning takes time but once I know how I like my setups it’ll be easy.
Absolutely buddy, the racing line takes all your attention, you did the right thing turning it off 👏. Take your time, don't rush, pick a track you know and set the bike up how you want, that way you are concentrating on the bike not where the track goes. Took me ages and many many races to start upping the AI, they are mean fast on 120% 👌👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 already at 99% AI. I absolutely destroy them with the R6, stock and RM. I’m better with the chase cam as I can see further and seeing the rider helps with positioning for the next corner. I’ve been using a setup i found and only touching the hardness for tire temps.
@@iiraiyen top job bud, seems like you've struck gold if your only making little adjustments. You'll be up at 120% and hating it soon 🤣👍✌
Lol I didn’t notice they had rebound and compression backwards. Thanks.
Hi Nuumet, they have fixed that via a patch now, so the text may still be wrong but the actual settings you adjust are correct now 👍👍✌
Thanks for your video all this research is so valuable to me. You are such a gentleman!
My pleasure! 👍✌️
Thank you, love the details and effort to explain.
Im excited to try this
You are welcome Jc, and thank you for watching and commenting I really appreciate it. 👍👍✌
This video really did help me get way more comfortable way faster in this game, maybe one day ill even get comfy on liter bikes 🤣
Thanks a bunch !
Brilliant video, keep them coming, I certainly need the help....
Thank you, I shall keep them going until my hands don't work, or I smash my TV to pieces 🤣🤣
Which game setting do you think most correlates with a quicker turn-in? The biggest problem I had with RIDE games was a slow turn-in.
IRL, lowering the forks or swapping to shorter links at the rear, would make it more nimble. But on all the previous RIDE games, I would max out all suspension setting at 10 & get better results (not necessarily best), to achieve a higher ride height for a lower in-game lean angle, allowing for a faster cornering speed, at the cost of greater tendency to wheelie. I didn’t mind sacrificing my stability because I learned to be so smooth, I could handle it with no aids whatsoever except minimal anti-wheelie on literbikes.
Hi Konrad, thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it.
The question you have posed is still the hardest to answer with RIDE games, and you are 100% correct in what you have said. For road bikes, making everything '10' will give you a faster reacting bike, at the potential expense of ultimate lap or race time. Because of the way the in-game physics work, there is no one solution I'm afraid, there has to be a compromise somewhere depending on what you are trying to achieve.
It might be a case of analysing what makes a bike react more quickly in the real world and then try to apply that in game. So wheelbase (shorter), height of centre of gravity (higher), tyre profile (steeper) and fork rake & trail (less of both) all effect how a real bike would handle, obviously outside of having the suspension correctly adjusted for rider weight, but we'll assume that has been done in this instance.
The question is can we mimic that in game, well yes and no. Wheelbase, that's easy, just jack the rear preload right up and we get a higher centre of gravity for free as well. Tyre profile is tougher, the only option we have is to run a harder compound, which will keep its shape more and allow a more softly sprung front end, again moving the centre of gravity forwards and hopefully reducing understeer as well. The fork rake & trail is the hard one, on a real bike I'd just drop the yolks down the forks but we can't do that in game. The only way to get a lower front end is to drop the preload, and there's the compromise I was talking about.
You could get really deep and start trying to identify certain bikes that handle more in the way you want, such as Ducati Panigale's and most of the naked stuff (shorter wheelbase), but I'd avoid Aprilia's and the cross plane crank R1s (longer wheelbase).
Race bikes are a bit easier as we can adjust the rake and trail settings and from what you've said, I'd put them to 0 (zero) and see how you go.
Apologies for the long reply, but it's such a subjective area of the game. One man's muck is another man's money and all that. It's all about finding your sweet spot, with not just the settings but maybe a certain bike or type of bike as well.
I really hope this helps buddy, but please let me know how you get on either way.
Take care, stay safe 👍👍✌
Changing your visor to a black one would knock at least 1sec off.
Absolute fact buddy, the iridium ones are worth another couple of tenths as well!! 🤣🤣👍✌
You sound like Paul McCartney awesome video 🙏🏼
Really???? That's a new one, and I'm definitely not a Scouser.
Glad you liked it, I'll work on my accent for next time 🤣🤣👍✌
Top class explanation here mate
Cheers buddy, much appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time to watch and leave a comment. 👍👍✌
I went through all the same infinite process yet somehow arrived at different conclusions for all the elevation changes at Laguna Seca. Electronics are going to be different for every bike. Preload is anti dive, like a dampener for when the game runs you over. Hardness affects both stability and tire wear. I like both shock absorbers to be equal to reduce speed wobble. All my settings are fairly high except front hardness and rear preload as I don't mind wheelies and wiggles so much as speed wobbles. My suspension is quite high to carry more corner speed. Suspension settings are never quite finished. I just like to give regular updates on my perspective
Great video buddy... 👍🏻 and thanks for the effort to do it!!
You are very welcome 👍👍
Really helpful! Thanks and please shear more ! Good job 👏
Im a bit late to the party but had to give some applause 👏 👏 👏
I’ll have to watch this.. while I’m decent at controlling the bike, I’m not very competitive
Take your time buddy, it's hard to go fast straight away. Remember;
knowledge = confidence
confidence enables consistency
consistency breeds speed
👍👍✌
If only the ai would let me drive like this easy on the tires , it’s like their tire temperature stays green threw out the race to keep up with them an maintaining tires is impossible
What tyre compound are you using? The medium and hards should be lasting for a 5 lap race, unless you are spinning it up all the time 🤔🤣
For a complete newbie like me, what should I choose ride3 with more content(also cheaper) or ride4 with more realistic graphics and handling? 🤔
I don't know anything about bike handling, but I love bike games, or anything with bikes
Mmmm, I would probably go straight for Ride 4. I found that Ride 3 was a huge game but was very samey and the physics and graphics were not great. Ride 4 is beautiful and the physics are much better. Don't worry about the handling, there are plenty of videos about how to set stuff up. If you wanna keep in simple just use this, if the tyre is hot increase the spring hardness, if the tyre is cold decrease the spring hardness. 👍👍
@@MotoMartino79 thx, will wait for a sale then and pick it up 😉
@@emulation2369 I just picked up ride 4 a few days ago for $29.99 on steam
Quality video!
Thanks Jason, the positive feedback is very much appreciated 👍👍
I think your video explains it very well, but I have not seen any video explaining RIDE4 in such detail as you do on the Chinese network. I think they need such a video, can I share it on the Chinese network?
As long as you credit me as the original creator, feel free to share wherever you want 👍👍
Wow, I do love, and cant argue with your technical know how. But what are your qualifications? Engineer or rider or??
Hi Bryan, I am merely a student of life and hard knocks. I have an inquisitive mind and curious thumbs. If I can take it apart I will. If I can twiddle it, I'll go all the way left then all the way right.
I guess it's a desire to understand how and why things work, if I can improve the experience at the same time, brilliant. With motorcycle suspension, it was a case of needs must as a motorcycle was my only form of transport for a good few years. Being a mid 90s Kawasaki ZX-7R, the suspension was rather firm, especially the rear, so I just took it apart and then looked at how it could be improved for the road (I tend not to ride on track if I can avoid it). If I made any changes that didn't work, I made a note and went to opposite way.
Transferring that knowledge to RIDE4 was a challenge, as the control points are limited to 2 sticks, and the physics is limited to a certain extent. Once I'd figured out how to keep the tyres warm, so began the never-ending quest for the perfect 'feel' from the game.
Trial and error I suppose, just with a few more moving parts!! 👍👍✌
Moto Martino, I got this game at Xmas for the Xbox one, I loved the bikes, the sound of the bikes, the tracks etc etc. However having to set up the suspension on every bike to get the best performance is horrendous...can you give me a simple guide on how to adjust the suspension to stop my bikes running wide on the corners or turning too tight into the corners...??. Also a guide about rake and trail would be good, I know what they are but trying to set it up is just mind bending...! By the way I used your guide on the Ducati 916 and it handles like a dream. But even with suspension set up on a lot of the big tracks, even with the AI on the easiest setting they are just leaving me for dead, on the Algarve track I was 28 secs behind the winner...? Am I riding the bike wrong???
I've used your set up guide and it helps a lot. (I'm a 52 Yr old biker, had various sports bikes, but now I'm trying to slow down a bit I ride a Yamaha XJR1300..!)
Keep up these videos cos I can't afford to smash any more controllers or TV's
Cheers Bro..!
Hi Paul, thanks for watching and commenting, it's very much appreciated.
Welcome to Ride4, and all the pleasure and pain that comes with it!! I'll try to answer as much as I can, but the best thing you can do is play the game. Practice makes perfect as they say, and you'll need a whole heap of practice on this.
Before I answer you questions above, try and forget everything you know about suspension in the real world, it matters not a bloody jot in Ride4. Christ knows who they got to do the physics model, but it's arse about face, backwards and upside down at best. 🤣👍
Bikes running wide - this is normally down to a couple of things;
1 - front preload setting is too high. Take a couple of clicks off the front preload (move the adjuster left). This may cause the front tyre to overheat (colour will be orange or red if it does), to compensate for this increase front spring hardness and front compression and rebound by the same number of clicks you reduced the front preload. So -1 click on preload = +1 click on all other front suspension settings.
2 - forks are bottoming out. Add clicks to the front spring hardness and front compression and rebound until you can see feel the bike almost picking the rear wheel off the floor under heavy braking. Making sure you have the vibrate function activated on the controller is critical to this. As you near the limit of grip, the controller will vibrate. The nearer the limit, the stronger the vibration. ABS will reduce this slightly, so have a practice with the ABS on and off to see which you prefer. I tend to run ABS off as the game isn't too bad even in the wet.
3 - engine braking setting too low. At first I viewed the additional electronics settings available in the game as a bit of a cheat or a fanny's way of playing. It took me ages to realise they are integral to the way you extract a quick lap time from a bike. When you get on the brakes, you want the rear of the bike to just step out of line. If the engine braking is too low it won't move, too high and it will spit you sideways and flick you off rather quickly. Each bike likes something different and the game doesn't remember the setting for each bike, just the last setting you used. So for example, the Ducati 916 will probably need engine braking 1 or 2, where as a Yamaha R6 will need engine braking 3. The developers have mapped the different engine characteristics quite well in most cases, so real world knowledge will help here.
Bikes turning too tight. (road bikes)
On a closed or neutral throttle this will be too much rear preload. Take 1 click off at a time until you have calmed the bike down.
If the bike is over rotating as you get on the gas the rear spring hardness and rear comp & rebound setting are too high. Too stiff a rear end transfers all lateral load into the tyre and it move sideways instead of forwards. Softening the rear may induce wheelies, but offset this by taking 1 click off rear preload until you find a compromise.
Compromise is the key word I'm afraid mate, everything you change will have a reaction elsewhere, you just have to find a groove you are happy with and then make fine adjustments around it.
Bikes turning too tight. (race bikes)
All of the above is applicable, but you can increase the rake and trail setting to slow the way the bike reacts down.
If I'm struggling with a race, I tend to take the bike to a fast track like Magny-Cours or UMC Outer and dial a set-up in. Then I'll go back to the track in question and use Time-trial mode to just tweak that initial set-up and make sure it fits the track where I'm struggling. I know it's a ball ache, but that's the price we pay for a fairly robust bike game that actually feels something akin to the real thing.
Worst case scenario, let me know what race / track / bike you are having bother with and I can get a set-up to you on here fairly sharpish. 👍👍👍👍✌
You're not playing the game wrong at all, it just takes a bit of time that's all. I've just finished an 8 hour race at Laguna Seca in last, over a lap down. Sometimes you just pick the wrong bike, or the set-up is all to cock 🤣👍✌
Gods work right here
Praise be buddy 👍👍✌️
Thank you so much!
Erm no problem, but what for exactly?
Great video mate I'm just getting back into ride 4 any chance you could do a video on the road circuits S100 NW Ulster etc..
Thanks buddy, glad you enjoyed it.
Right, the Southern 100 possibly, Ulster GP erm do I have to? I don't mind the Southern 100 course despite only having ever done 2 clean laps there ever. The Ulster is a different beast, I detest the place, couldn't even tell you which way it went.
All joking aside, I've got a fair chunk of free time over Xmas, so I'll have a look at the very least.
Thanks again for watching and commenting, I really do appreciate it 👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Haha you can do it the Ulster track is brilliant I love all the road layouts they feel special and yes completely different beast to a flat circuit.
S100 is probably my favourite.
I just don't get how am I supposed to see my tyres wear when on time trial it doesn't wear out the tyres.
I have been coming back to this vid for 3days now. For some reason I'm still confuse on why my bike always highside or overshoots. I followed your tips on how to properly tune and still very confused after trying so many options. I'm on kawasaki ninja zx10rr RM.
Holy crap this is a great video.
Thanks buddy, I really rather agree with you. 🤣🤣👍👍✌
can you pls make a vid how get better top speed bc i have litterly the same moto as others but they go like 180 mph i i only go 155mph how i fix that lik pls tuturial for gear settings
Hi Dan, I'm working on a gearing video now, but before that is done a couple of questions.
Are you hitting the rev limiter or are you just stopping at 155 mph with revs left?
What setting have you got for 'auto tuck in' setting menu? Could be that you have it switched off and you need to tuck in manually. I use 'auto' as it's just easier. 👍👍✌
Here's a question for you... Did you find that you were more tuned to twiddling with the dials on your bikes (IRL and in game) after you started mountain biking or more? The moment you start adjusting for rebound and compression for different sorts of trail conditions and terrain, the quicker you get your head around the effects and impact of the adjustments. I was totally expecting you to say "you just need two clicks... and you're on your way to winning at inters!"
It almost feels like "when Dave Moss Tuning uses a game to explain"
Buddy when I started mountain biking, there were no adjusters, or forks with more than 40mm of travel 🤣🤣🤣.
All joking aside, it was my early years on motorbikes that got me twiddling. Little 400cc 4-strokes had to handle to keep up with the bigger kids on their R6s and 918 'blades.
I try to look at it as cause and effect, both IRL and on RIDE4. The methodologies don't translate across at all really, but once I realised that it helped me understand the physics on RIDE4 in more detail.
I'm a sod for twiddling IRL, static sag is king in my world, plus little zip ties on the fork lowers. Use the suspension to switch the tyre on and you'll be good. My wife loves it I'm sure.........
Thanks for watching and commenting, I really appreciate everyone that does.
Take care bud, stay safe, peace ✌️
@@MotoMartino79 If I can have my time again, I'd love to get reunited with my old ZXR250C and actually have that thing set up for the British B roads. The good old 33bhp days with your buddies on NC29s and NC30s.
I'm with you on the static sag though. Once you get your preload set on your bike or you've got the right spring rate/air pressure in your shocks/fork, it makes a massive difference.
@@Titot182 they were simpler times, but way better I think. Might be old age though, pretty sure I hated carb icing more than anything back then. 🤔🤔🤣
@@MotoMartino79 Kids these days will never know the joys of putting in Silkolene FST into their ZX6R-F's when you know you had to do a run down the M1 on a crisp and clear winter's morning at 3°C. But hey ho, E10 will kill the carbs for sure if the material's selection wasn't up to scratch for the elastomers.
@@Titot182 mmmmm FST 🤣🤣 I always used to throw a bit of Hot Shot octane boost in on really cold days!!!
Please stop, you're making me feel old, you'll be telling me you used to buy bikes from Clay Cross Powersports next!!!! 🤣🤣
great video!! do you know if they have or will patch the rebound being written wrong?
Thank you 👍. I have no idea if the will patch it, but I hope they do 🤣
Great video! Thanks for deep expl.
You're very welcome, and thank you for watching and commenting 👍✌
Which track is useful when it comes to trial and error of the suspensions?
Which tire should I choose if I’m on a RM or EM bike(no stock tires) while testing the suspension? Should I try medium or hard?
Tks, and have a nice day!
Any track you enjoy and can learn intimately. If you know the track you can concentrate on the bike and what it's doing. My top 3 are Magny-Cours, UMC Outer and Phillip Island, mainly because they are fast and put big loads through the tyres. On RM & EM bikes, I'd start with a medium tyre and see how the tyre builds temperature. If it runs a little cold move to a soft, if it runs hot move to a hard. Remember to change one thing at a time, then test it. 2 clicks harder on the front spring rate will move a fair bit of energy and temperature into the rear tyre, so if you soften the rear at the same time, you might overheat it. Thank you for watching and getting in touch. Have a good day, a great weekend and stay safe 👍👍✌
What's the best bike for Nordschleife and how do you set it up for that track?
Subscribed 😊 very informative
Welcome aboard Nic, thanks for the sub, it's very much appreciated.
If you're unsure on anything, just holler, more than happy to help if I can.
Thanks again. 👍👍👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 Thankyou very much. Top man 😎
Hi, im from malaysia.. I wanna ask what to do when rear tire still not warm enough (green/blue) .. Even using soft tire.. Can you advise? Thanks a lot.
Hi from the UK, I hope you are safe and well. For a cold rear tyre there are 3 things you can do;
1 - reduce the TC (traction control) level.
2 - reduce the rear spring hardness & increase the front spring hardness, but only by one click at a time. This will provide more support for the front tyre and move energy towards the rear of the bike.
3 - if you are using a light bike like a 250cc or 300cc, reduce all the settings to zero (all the way to the left) apart from the rear preload +2 from the left and front spring hardness +2/3 from the left.
You have to adjust things one at a time to see what helps increase the tyre temperature for your riding style. If the front tyre starts to get cold, use a softer compound to compensate but this might move energy back towards the front of the bike and you may have to readjust the suspension again.
If you are still struggling, let me know the bike, circuit and weather conditions, and I will do a video showing you the settings I use.
Sometimes no matter what I do the tyres are always blue, especially with the smaller lighter bikes.
Hope this helps. 👍👍
@@MotoMartino79 thanks a lot.. Really appreciate your reply.. 👍👍👍
I need help with gear tuning. I can have a 3 sec lead than I hit the straight and the AI bikes flight right by me. Everytime I hit 5 gear on every bike it just drops speed. I don't think I have ever been to 6 gear. Idk if it's just the game or what can anyone please help me
Before we look at the gear tuning, what setting did you have 'rider tuck in on? Sounds like you have it on manual, switch it to auto and that should help your top speed. 👍👍
You just got a new sub for the help. It was the auto tuck that has a bug. I am much happier with the game now. I ain't got to play 80% no longer I can turn it up to a 120
@@stephenwilliams7200 you are a Gentleman 👍
My suspension settings for every bike:
F - 0
R - 10
F - 0
R -10
F - 10
R - 10
F - 10
R - 10
verry good Tutorial
Many many thanks 👍👍
Try to be fast and consistent and then go for the settings. Ride 4 has better physics than people say
100% agree buddy, the physics doesn't get the praise it deserves 👍✌️
Do you use same set up for North west 200 on fire blade?
Any suggestions for setting Yamaha R6 2015 for VIR north?
Have a look here buddy - ua-cam.com/video/D72Z1YEeFeU/v-deo.html
2:03 for the VIR North feedback. (on the linked video, not this one 👍)
2:19 for the actual set-up I used.
I ran a medium front and a soft rear, but the set-up will let you use soft for both if you want. 👍👍✌
Here is my first attempt following this suspension video (Will do some more adjustments later) thanks for the guide: ua-cam.com/video/BcaUz9UD7cg/v-deo.html
You are very welcome. Had a look at the video, bike looks like it turns mega quick. 👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 that's like a whole Saturday evening trying to get it right w/o crashing. I'm hoping to be somewhat this close in irl. I do t have an R6 tho I have a cbr500R and I have been in this track before as a spectator. Hopefully I Can get an sv650 used next season for track day purposes irl. Cheers
How do u turn anti wheelie off
Press the D-pad left and right & you will see in the bottom right corner of the screen a menu scrolling through tyres, anti wheelie, engine braking and traction control. When you are on AW, EB or TCS you press the D-pad up or down to increase / decrease that setting.
AW-0 is good for smaller less powerful bikes.
AW-1 is good for 600cc - 900cc ish.
AW-2 is good for everything else.
AW-3 will just stop the bike accelerating forwards.
You can also push forwards on the left thumb stick to move the riders weight forwards to counter and front wheel lift in the lower AW settings.
Is there a way to decrease xbox controller sensitivity?
In regards to the buttons, triggers or control sticks? Buttons and triggers are non adjustable on xbox in game, control sticks I don't know about? You trying to slow them down or speed them up?
@@MotoMartino79 I just feel like that I have very twitchy unstable sticks control with a controller and makes the game pretty unplayable
@@johnadams3038 I get what you mean. I'll have a look, see of there is any way to slow stuff down 👍👍
Thank you
Cheers
👍👍
Your info applies to PC too?
I don't see why it shouldn't. At the very least you'll be able to get a base setting that you can then tweak to suit you.
I'm not sure if the physics engine is the same, but I assume that it is. 👍👍👍
For me it's the PS4. I'm hoping the mechanics are the same. I'm riding a 2017 Goldwing in real life. I had a 2006 Honda VTX1300 S(R) which you can tell from my videos.
i really need to "study" this... i can't win a single race...
Thanks for watching and commenting, it's really appreciated 👍. This might not help you win, but the bike will handle lovely if you apply what the video talks about.
I've got loads more set-up videos in the works, so stay tuned 👍✌
@@MotoMartino79 thanks :) the auto tuck already helped a little :D looking forward for more videos =)
and the transmission? please?
I don't change the transmission settings at all. I can certainly have a look into it though 👍👍
@@MotoMartino79 Ya I have trouble with that too. Every ai bike is faster than mine no matter what bike I have would could have the same bike and they fly right by me it's been pissing me off so bad. Do you think there is something wrong with my game and I need to try download it again?
@@stephenwilliams7200 if you have the tuck in setting on auto, and they still blast past you might have a sticky brake button. Are any of the red brake bars lighting up in the bottom right of the screen next to the tyre box?
@@MotoMartino79 lol I just looked that up and I had it set on auto but people say that there's a bug in the game that it doesn't Auto tuck in so now that I'm tucking in my bikes are fast as hell now.. thanks alot man
@@stephenwilliams7200 no worries brother, anytime. Glad you got it sorted 👍👍
No wonder why my setups are all over the place..
I feel you buddy, it's so frustrating sometimes. I hope the video helps, I try to show my set-up for each race before it starts, so if you're stuck to have a look at it should hopefully give you a base setting to work from 👍
hell yeah
So how can I know Which setup I need to use to each bike. 🫣
You just have to use them and see how they heat the tyres up. As a general rule I use a 2 & 8 set up as follows:
Preload - F2 / R8
Spring Hardness - F8 / R2
Spring Compression - F8 / R2
Spring Rebound - F4 / R1
Use MEDIUM tyres front and rear, and then change them depending on whether they get too hot or too cold. A cold SOFT tyre is worse than a hot HARD tyre.
Tyre heat is the key to grip using the SPRING settings.
if you want to change the way the bike reacts to controller input, play about with the PRELOAD settings. 👍👍✌