forget about messing with these "race" valves, all they do is altering signal from ECU, because they work at a little different frequencies and have some different springs and restrictor holes inside than stock C/F valves, so in the beggining it can really seem or feel they hold boost better, but they only cause situation, when actual boost doesnt follow requested boost and it all means one thing - you´re not in controll. After some time of driving, ECU adaptations still alter KFLDIMX values (PID integral limit) and you end up with the +- same boost level as with stock, but maybe even worse boost behaviour - it´s waste of money.. when you want properly done higher boost level, you have to rise up requested boost in ECU maps, so PID´s can simply follow your request, and you are fully in controll without any issues of overboost. When you want stiffer wastegates or other race N75´s, you have to change PID maps, so they properly reflects your hardware changes. You really can not fool this types of ECU only with changing some "race" valves, manual boost controllers, tighter wastegate actuator preloads or wastegate spring modes, only one way is to rise up requests, belive me.
my turbo sounds like it cuts off after I hit full throttle then sometimes feels fast then slow can this be the n75 valve?or what are the symptoms of.bad valve
That is the same exact problem I'm having after driving full throttle, then when I cone to a stop, there is no boost. You can't even hear the turbo spool or diverter valve. There's no power, well a little but compared to full boost it feels like 50hp
+squalo777 videos I got everything ready, just needed a check valve and no stores had any in stock. In the vw vortex forums there's an ultimate delete guide but I don't think n249 delete is part of it? I have to do a SAI, pcv delete. It's too expensive to buy a 650$ SAI pump
+squalo777 videos I was thinking my engine or turbo were finally done. The engine was rebuilt and the dude did the forged rods, head port polish, cams, valve springs, and I guess your supposed to have some blow by unless you can change the cam timing with more overlap to bleed off more compression at lower rpm. That must have to be done through the ecu
+squalo777 videos but with a 225 Audi tt AWP flashed ECU or chipped ECU like APR or even a REVO, would it be worse to use or still better if your running a boost controller with a gt2871r/s or gt3061r/s turbo? Or just using the n75j with the stock ecu?
que tal squalo777 veo que tienes un dragon boost gauge, yo tengo uno igual en mi 1.8t, quisiera saber cuanto marca estando en ralenti, el mio marca -10, a veces -9!! saludos bro exelentes videos!!
+squalo777 videos my car is having a power problem that was the same exact way when you put the eBay n75 in. But it happens after full boost in about third gear the dv just opens by itself then I need to turn off the ignition then turn it right back on
forget about messing with these "race" valves, all they do is altering signal from ECU, because they work at a little different frequencies and have some different springs and restrictor holes inside than stock C/F valves, so in the beggining it can really seem or feel they hold boost better, but they only cause situation, when actual boost doesnt follow requested boost and it all means one thing - you´re not in controll. After some time of driving, ECU adaptations still alter KFLDIMX values (PID integral limit) and you end up with the +- same boost level as with stock, but maybe even worse boost behaviour - it´s waste of money.. when you want properly done higher boost level, you have to rise up requested boost in ECU maps, so PID´s can simply follow your request, and you are fully in controll without any issues of overboost. When you want stiffer wastegates or other race N75´s, you have to change PID maps, so they properly reflects your hardware changes. You really can not fool this types of ECU only with changing some "race" valves, manual boost controllers, tighter wastegate actuator preloads or wastegate spring modes, only one way is to rise up requests, belive me.
lol 6:53 he says it feels like a Honda... omg Im done...😅😂😂😂😂
Great videos bro keep it up need more of these 😄
whats the part # for the n75j?
You must have the n75E installed in reverse, or it's faulty.
my turbo sounds like it cuts off after I hit full throttle then sometimes feels fast then slow can this be the n75 valve?or what are the symptoms of.bad valve
Where did you get your intercooler piping? I need a setup like that?
ebay, you only need to buy the adaptor for the map sensor and weld it to the pipe
Why do you have a JDM sticker on your VAG?? :(
but you will always be limited by the ECU/tune
The E stands for Environment
That is the same exact problem I'm having after driving full throttle, then when I cone to a stop, there is no boost. You can't even hear the turbo spool or diverter valve. There's no power, well a little but compared to full boost it feels like 50hp
also when I turn off the ignition then turn it right back on it will run fine until full boost them as soon as I let off, no boost
It might be a problem with your n249 your describing the exact same problem I was having before have you done the n249 bypass?
Do the bypass or replace your n249 that's going to fix the problem
+squalo777 videos I got everything ready, just needed a check valve and no stores had any in stock. In the vw vortex forums there's an ultimate delete guide but I don't think n249 delete is part of it? I have to do a SAI, pcv delete. It's too expensive to buy a 650$ SAI pump
+squalo777 videos I was thinking my engine or turbo were finally done. The engine was rebuilt and the dude did the forged rods, head port polish, cams, valve springs, and I guess your supposed to have some blow by unless you can change the cam timing with more overlap to bleed off more compression at lower rpm. That must have to be done through the ecu
so which one is the best with the their ECU and turbo kit?
+fockyoumang definitely n75j 😁😁😁
+squalo777 videos thanks
+squalo777 videos but with a 225 Audi tt AWP flashed ECU or chipped ECU like APR or even a REVO, would it be worse to use or still better if your running a boost controller with a gt2871r/s or gt3061r/s turbo? Or just using the n75j with the stock ecu?
+squalo777 videos can you replace the n75 with a manual boost controller? if so, do you have a tutorial?
What's your gti's spec to?
que tal squalo777 veo que tienes un dragon boost gauge, yo tengo uno igual en mi 1.8t, quisiera saber cuanto marca estando en ralenti, el mio marca -10, a veces -9!! saludos bro exelentes videos!!
+Gustavo Chavez Villanueva tambien la mia marca 9 y aveces 8, muchas gracias por tu comentario
so the n75 controls the amount of boost? Not the wastegate?
Well actually is both, but for this cars with out the n75 the ecu won't allow the car to boost more than 5 psi
+squalo777 videos my car is having a power problem that was the same exact way when you put the eBay n75 in. But it happens after full boost in about third gear the dv just opens by itself then I need to turn off the ignition then turn it right back on
Where can I get the n75j? I can't find it on ecs
+Carlos Garcia the n75j ecs tunning replace that one for the n75 race valve you can ether order it from germany or buy the race valve from ecs
@@squalo777videos Link please
Q es eso y para q sirve
not if you have a electronic boost controler
John Calderon that is dangerous!!! Extreamly
its the same shit