New tires for the Army Truck, fraught with problems
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- Converting a military vehicle to super singles isn't necessarily as simple as you may have heard, and may not be the best choice depending on your vehicle.
I did my best to shorten the video with a lot of fast motion speed changes. For those who are here for just the super singles problems, jump to 24:47. The coolest footage in the video IMO is at 13:41.
For the entire saga of the military truck project, check out the playlist for it: • Revive a Military 5-to...
I did my best to shorten the video with a lot of fast motion speed changes. For those who are here for just the super singles problems, jump to 24:47. The coolest footage in the video IMO is at 13:41.
Thank heavens you are going to confirm it before you make the trip. Lots of work. It will be worth it in the end. Great video!!!
I already made the second trip and made the exchange. Still lots of additional work with the new wheels, stay tuned for details in a future video.
Life of a MV guy. Doing herculean work and problem solving always by yourself...
Those split rims are not the ones known as the widow makers. When assembled correctly they pose no more danger than any other truck rim.Widow Maker rims, also known as two-piece rims, were factory-installed on certain Ford trucks from 1948 to 1952. These rims consist of two almost equal halves that are assembled by lining up a notch in the rim and twisting the halves 180 degrees. They are called “Widow Makers” due to their poor design and safety risks. If these rims have any imperfections like rust or dents, they can blow apart during inflation or deflation, even while the truck is parked or in motion. As a result, many truck tire shops refuse to work on them.
Yeah, split rims and split rings, I have worked on both. These aren't dangerous at all. The original ones are the split rings which are the dangerous ones you speak of.
Just put the original type wheels on , keep it simple. Save money by having four rear wheels/ tires
The four rear singles went on fine, the front is the problem. I can't use the original wheels with the new tires because the tires are wider, have run flats, and are tubeless.
@@ForbiddTV i see, but is the front worth the trouble to alter, is there steering clearance and can the steering cope with the wider tires?
@@keithdenyer3937 People who have converted to super singles tell me the clearance is fine for front steering. I am seriously considering putting four of the old wheels in front (front duallys)! I talked to someone last week that said they did it on one of theirs. Makes the front width about 12" wider over all. Also the diameter of the old ones are about four inches smaller which changes the front wheel drive interaction with the rear axles, but since I am using it only off-road that shouldn't be a problem. I'm told the front axle only engages in first gear and reverse, all other gears the front axle floats neutral.
@@ForbiddTV if the fronts are smaller diameter than the rear then the amount of judder in drive will be too much in a straight line and worse when steering. A small difference in diameter with the front being taller than rear is plausible benefitting steering in drive, as with some tractors , or fractionally faster front axle gear. Duelling fronts will have a bad kick back on the steering wheel when on rough ground, with the king pin not in line with the middle of the two tires, as would be ideal. The front axle not in drive except for first gear is a surprise to me.🙂
those original tires are called non directional tread, or NDTs
Still waiting for the update... !
You need a torque multiplier. It will make the job a lot easier
Yeah, I've used one before but I don't have one. It wouldn't have helped if I'm turning the nuts the wrong way except to break studs quicker.
I was eventually able to get all of them off using the standard lug wrench.
@@ForbiddTV I had a 47 cj2a that had reverse lugs on one side, and a 57 land rover. Sold both. Regretting that. Considering an M35.
I skip a bit in your video, but was going to suggest that you keep the stock tires and wheels, should you decide to participate in the stock events. However, I have seen some participants with bobbed M35s. I don't remember the event. Something with the word IRON on it. Just mentioning it.
smart to spray it down weeks in advance. I've done that too, longer you leave things after you spray things with WD 40 the better it works.
can you just get an angle grinder and grind a 1/4 inch off the brake drum or cover or whatever is in the way?
Probably yes. For now I just have the original wheels on the front since the truck still isn't running. Even toying with the idea of four original wheels up front (duallies).
One side has right hand threads other ide has left hand thteads
Yes, I showed that later in the video of my mistake.
I got the engine in my M62 last week and got it running Tuesday. Do yourself a favor and take the front fenders off about a dozen bolts and you have full access all the way around the engine leave the hood so you can still cover from weather
When pulling the engine, did you also pull it with the transmission attached? Might be different on yours, but the mechanic I got out there thought it wouldn't clear the clutch coming out without dropping the front axle. The people at Memphis Equipment told me they usually pulled engine/trans together for that model.n
I had considered the fender removal but was reluctant due to do so because of what looked like the headache of wiring and rusted bolts. I may go ahead and do that now since I am getting a powder coating oven Saturday and I think the fenders would fit in my oven. I was about ready to prime/paint my newly sand blasted steel wheels when I realized the benefits of powder coating and found a set up fairly cheap.
@@ForbiddTV I left the transmission in place I just put blocking under it and left it in stock location. I pulled the engine with another military wrecker we only had to lift it about 3" and worked it forward and raised it as we came forward
Hope your difficulty piecing things back together smooths out, one thing about those old army trucks is they are built heavy duty and with normal hauling and use should last you a long time. I believe that the only force against you is time and age, wiring, fluid hoses, and gaskets deteriorate with age. for property clearing and work around the premises, I could not think of a better piece of equipment. peace out.. -Dave
I'm sure there will be other things I find wrong once I am able to start and run it. Already exchanged the tires, but found more problems, stay tuned to the channel to see what's up.
One damn thing after another...
not sure if you figured out the wheels yet, but those big wheels are from an FMTV. You should try wheels from a 900 series 5ton. I believe the A1 and A2 versions both used the super singles
I have steel ones now, but they still don't quite fit over the front brake drums without binding. I don't know the exact type of vehicle of where the present steel wheels came from. I presently have the old original wheels on the front, but have an extreme idea I will be trying soon.
Throw a 454 Big Block Chevy crate engine in there and be set.
I already put in a rebuilt Continental 6606 (see other videos). Trying to get a mechanic out there to be there for the start up.
Need a torque multiplyer!
Correct, I don't have one. I was finally able to get the others with the standard wrench. Turning the nut the wrong way with a torque multiplier would have just broken the stud without heating it up.
I would suggest invest in a 1 inch impact wrench.. funny how I just started typing this as you mentioned you had no impact and air..lol
Hey can we get an update video please? I need some footage of the undercarriage. Thanks for the content
I got the engine and transmission in, but been waiting all year for the mechanic to come out and finish up two of my machines with rebuilt engines. Finding a mobile mechanic out here has been very difficult, I have hired many and they all give me promises. Even if the truck was running, I doubt there would be any need for me to show the undercarriage.
Use an impact wrench
I don't have one that big. largest I have is 1/2" drive and 1"" sockets. Plus would have to haul around an air compressor and generator.
So what happen on changing the wheels? Did the steel super singles fit?
Much closer than the aluminum ones, but some cutting of the brake drums would be required. For now I have the original wheels on the front (there's no issue with the rear axles) but it doesn't matter much since I still haven't been able to find a mechanic to help finish the engine rebuild.
@@ForbiddTV thank you
Any updates on the Mack.
Just installed finished the new wheels today. I powder coated the steel replacement wheels, but the new steel wheels had the similar problem that the aluminum ones did, just not as drastic. I will have to do some milling, grinding or torch work for the front wheels. In the meantime I put two old wheels on the front. The rear ones installed fine, but it was difficult to jack up the whole truck about on foot in the air on uneven ground with a 9.2 ton rock in the bed.
Unbolt the hood get it out of the way.
Nah, it folds back all the way to the windshield past 90° so it will be out of the way for the engine pull. Plus I lower it back down after each days work so things stay relatively protected.