Keep in mind. Im not so much recomending the AFM models. Mainly the LS based Chevy trucks. The 4.8 engine does not have AFM. But even AFM beats the hell out of a Triton 5.4.
Wow ....... Well we have a 2005 expedition triton 5.4 flawless engine but!! Oil change every 4k and new style of spark plugs. So ya no one has that type of time and effort 🤣🤣🤣
@@isaac4273 Ford used the 4.6 2V until 2010, and suffers no reliability issues at all, only real downside was lacking in power and you only ever got a 4-speed auto, whereas the 5.4 started using the 6-speed fairly early on. I've heard later 3V's are a lot better than the earlier ones with the oiling issues (i think it was 08+ or 09-10) but i haven't researched it in depth. the 5.0 is also a good option as they're also starting to come down in price. I'd also imagine if you bought a 04-10 f150 with the 2V 4.6 (they did have a 3V 4.6 in 09-10 optional), you could probably extremely easily swap in a 2v 5.4 with minimal issues and solve the power issue and not spend a lot of money and have the same great reliability. 97-03 trucks were great but the 04-10+ were a lot more spacious and easier to work on etc.
Yeah it’s golden when the car you have there’s like three other engines as options that go in it and you got the smallest one that means you got a ton of room
The best year in my opinion was the 1999-2007 before they had all the fuel management bullcrap... Holy cow I just realized that I beat the car wizard with likes.You guys are crazy, thank you..
i was thinking the same. though the 4.8 didn't ever get the DOD/AFM stuff. but still id rather have those myself if i was to get one. i think they look better too
@@CL-ty6wp agreed, 04+ F150’s are a little more spacious but still probably rather have a 97-03 so I can have a 5.4 2V lol I’ve only ever messed with/owned/experienced a 2nd Gen ram, but I hate it, 3rd gens seems a better option but don’t know as much about them. I do know the 3.7/4.7 are junk lol
I've owned every generation GM truck starting with the 73-87 trucks. Each generation brings new tech or new features so comparing across them all is a little difficult. The older generations tend to be more mechanical and less electronic so they are more reliable. But, the gas mileage was worse in the older generations. My favorite generation is the GMT800 which was 99-07. It's the generation that blends together some newer tech and retains some of the reliability before GM started slowly reducing their quality of parts in search of maximum profits.
I've got a 2011 5.3 with dod never had lifters at 236k miles today its been abused to the point where it shouldn't run today the ls platform from 99 to 13 is awesome its all about maintenance after 07 if it does fail its a simple fix DELETE IT just my 2 cents as a mechanic
I gotta '05 w/ th small V8, w/ 185K, & I expect that truck to last me, literally, the rest of my life.. Just had a [body guy-] friend help me take out about a 100 little dents & dings, got new wheels & tires off a 2019 ( a while ago), added a new front & replaced rear bumper & tailgate, re-painted th whole thing, blacked out the trim & th toolbox, sprayed on a bedliner and reupholstered the seats & replaced th headliner. Then added drop-spindles to lower it juuust right.. It DRIVEs lika freakin CADILLAC now, no joke ! And U want me to pay WHAT $50.-to- $70.THOUSAND 😮 fir a new truck ?!? R U outta yer collective fokkinMINDs, GM, Ford & Dodge ? I basically GOTTA brand new truck for $13/14.Grand, INCLUDING what I paid for it initially AND all the repairs/ paint & body work AND the transmission being replaced ! The only reason I can see why I would EVER git rid of her is if I needed to tow [a LOT..] more. Other than that, I'll likely be passing that truck down to my grandkids, and they to theirs..
I've owned a 2007 GMC Sierra (1st year of this generation) since new and it now has 296,000 miles with only a few minor issues along the way. It's never stranded me, I've done all the repairs myself, and it's simply the best vehicle I have ever owned.
I have and 07 Silverado with 235,000 miles, and it runs like a top. I also do my own repairs, the only big one on this truck was replacing the o ring on the oil pickup tube. That took the oil pressure from about 14 psi at idle to 50 psi at idle. I have been told that apart from routine maintenance, that is the most important preventative repair, and it's usually due around the 200,000 mile mark.
I also have an 07 GMT900 that I purchased new and it currently has 328,700 miles an runs great. Minor repairs along the way that I've done myself. Change oil every 5k, trans & diffs every 50k, and plugs every 100.
Did you all disable the active fuel management? I am about to buy a pristine Tahoe ltz 5.3L and this is my main worry. It is 150,000 miles and still looks brand new inside and out. Would love to get another 100k miles out of her.
I’ve got an 08 Silverado with 280,000 on it and the only problem I’ve had with it was a blown valve cover but it only took about 30 minutes to replace while teaching a class how to do it.
My 2009 has 140k miles on the clock trouble free. The 4.8 gm V8 is such a sweet engine. Smooth quiet and does not leak or smoke. No AFM, no flex fuel, no cam timing.
@eleazararriaga3349 brother my 07 is at 220k right now still running like a champ but I've learned to not be scared of when that damn 4l60 curse hits me lol just think of it as a time for improvement when it does you got a damn great truck
After watching this video, I feel better. I bought one of these 2 days ago with 188k miles on it. Truck's in good shape inside and out. One owner, and it's a Southern truck. My buddy, who's a mechanic, put the scanner on it yesterday and there were no codes stored, so I'm happy for that. Plan on taking it in to the shop this week for an oil change and replace the tranny fluid and filter, since the Carfax I bought for it showed no maintenance records.
@@julierosado1806 That's good to hear. I just bought a 2008 just like the one in the video with 129k miles on it about a month ago, so hopefully it will last a while. I buy full synthetic oil and change it every 4k miles on all my vehicles just to be safe and always change it as soon as I buy a new one.
awesome. Get it serviced once a year My biggest issue transmission needed replaced during covid shut down. But it wasn't cared for very well before I got it 2016. Fortunately I was able to get one it just took 3 months bc of covid🙄 Not a shabby truck.
Got an ‘09 Sierra with the 5.3 swapped from a 4.8. Bought it at 168,000km (~100,000 miles). Recently hit 200,000 kms and have had literally no issues. Any work done was of my own choosing; lift, bedliner painting, fresh steering, brakes, cold air, etc. Nothing has broken down on me and I love starting that truck every day
I've got a 03 suburban. Absolutely love it. Drives like a dream. I do minor repairs that are doable without a bridge since I don't have one and like you say, it's so easy. 218k miles and running strong. Washing the underside is probably one of the best advice you can give on these cars. I take it to a carwash to get the underside washed once a month. It has zero rust..
I have a 2000 Silverado LT 5.3 It has a 197000 miles on it Runs perfectly no rust whatsoever When people see it they think it's 10 years newer than it is Only basic maintenance is all it takes to keep it running perfectly We'll have this truck forever I love it
I gave it to my son-in California. It has 228000 miles He loves it 3 months ago I bought a 2002 G.M c sierra s l t with fifty four thousand miles One owner garage kept Had to pay top dollar But was worth it. It's one awesome truck
I Have a 2007 Silverado with this "new" body style, mine also has the 5.3, with the same transmission. its been a fantastic truck. I just crossed over 110,xxx miles. I am a mid to low experienced mechanic, and was easily able to change spark plugs, wires, etc. myself and all maintenance is done by me. its a fantastic truck. Great video. greetings from Oregon.
I have a 2007 Avalanche. Same GMT900 platform, 5.3ltr, 187K miles. She's got a little lifter tick, but still runs VERY strong. I upgraded the transmission to a built 4L75E and it snaps off shifts like it wants to run 9's. I love it. I'd definitely buy it again.
@@777jones Its not even the best truck, much less the best vehicle. Not even close. They rot away when they get rained on. Nothing made by GM is the best anything in a normal sense of the word.
@@sjfk1306 all about maintenance, I have an 08 Silverado in the Rust Belt, and it still has all the markings from the assemble line visible, and hardly a spot of orange surface rust on the frame. Def not an ounce of rot
What I like most about this truck is that it isn't lifted to oblivion and obnoxious. It's a sensible, reliable truck. That is what a truck is supposed to be!
I had a 2004 GMC version that I got new for work and drove it throughout the Southeast. I put 775K miles on it and sold it running with the original engine. No major engine work but replaced the trans three times.
The 4l80 would have been better if they'd used it across the board, but the 4l60 isn't bad if built up. The best I've seen a stock 4L60 do is about 230k miles before it finally wore down. Fluid services are 100% key to keeping these alive.
@@flotowncomputerguy6243 yeap, about every 200k miles we had a burned out trans with or without services. We tried both, but they weren't built transmissions
@@flotowncomputerguy6243 I have 92 s10 4.3 with the 4L60 with 240k org motor and trans.Engine has never been opened up.It still has the original gaskets and cat converter from the factory with GM steel stamped on the bottom of it.
Wow. I also have the 04 model. Mine is approaching 300K kilometres and I thought that was a lot. I didn't think the gas LS motors went up to 775K miles . Impressive!
I bought a 2013 z71 4 years ago for 18k. Best money spent. I can attest that those problems that you pointed out are truly real and have been remedied on this one. The only thing I've done differently is upgraded the brakes to the tow package. I have also deactivated the active fuel management so that I have a V8 all of the time. The other funny thing is I have a Toyota Corolla as a car. I bought it in 2007. I've never had a problem with that car. There is 230,000 miles on this Toyota that I have. I've always been replacing General things like tires and fluids and brakes. That is it.
Absolutely agree 100% this generation trucks are very reliable. But it does bother me when people say it’s basically a 5.3 when it’s not. I had an ‘06 Tahoe with the 5.3 and ‘07 Impala SS with the LS4 5.3. My impala also came with “246” heads too which were off of the LS6. LS4 also has higher compression
We bought a '21 Silverado with the 5.3 L84 V8. I had hoped that after 14 model years of cylinder deactivation production, they would have finally figured it out with this generation. The flashing check engine light at 585 miles said otherwise; the lifters failed on two cylinders. If you like arriving at your destination in the vehicle you left in, based on my experience I would recommend against buying anything with cylinder deactivation. We plan on trading it before the warranty runs out.
when you make 50 to 100 k of these trucks a month these things happen. Every Brand has it's faults and possitives, and to the point of the Wizard.... they all will need to be worked on, which one does he want to work on?
No matter if you work on your own vehicle or take it to your trusty mechanic, it's great to know that this generation of GM trucks are "fix-it friendly". Thank you Wizard and Crazy D. 👍
Keeping my 02 Silverado Z71 4x4. It's kind of a rare configuration being an extended cab long bed. You don't see many of those half ton trucks. It's got 348k miles on it I just put $1700 into it doing the rear main seal and and oil pump. It's running so good now it's freaking scary for a truck with 348k miles.
Those fender flares means it’s rusting out like mine. My 2010 has 173k miles and my AfM lifter tray broke at 143k almost 4years ago causing a damaged cam. I deleted all the AFM with the Texas Speed kit and a non-afm cam. Did all the work myself and even had room to stand between the core support and engine when I did the block/head surface cleaning.
In Iowa every Silverado of that era has rusted fenders. Even the guys who regularly wash and waxed them have the issue. Winter road salt destroys them.
Usually that is the case, but Crazy D's truck is probably fine, as the underside looks fairly clean. It was probably just modified with big wheels and tires in the past before being returned to stock.
I have flares on my truck and there’s no rust. Same paint as that crew cab Z71 etc. Minnesota truck with 199k on it. I fluid filmed the box when I got it but she’s cherry under the flares
I have to agree with you on this, I have a 2007 Silverado the new body style so basically a 2008, it has 243,000 miles and still runs like new, only major thing I had to replace on it was the throttle body, but nothing other than the normal things to go like ball joints, etc. the ball joints actually lasted 230k miles before I had to replace them and they only had a very slight wiggle
There's a high schooler in my town who drives one of these and it should have probably been totalled. It looks like it's been jumped in a field a dozen times and the bed is held on by bungee cords... but it somehow still drives.
i got a 2008 silverado, but mine is the 4.8 variant. which is more reliable and doesnt have active fuel management. it has 238k miles, doesnt burn oil. no leaks, never had any trans or engine problems yet. the only issue ive had, was i had to replace the ball joints and wheel bearings twice.
How you think the 4.8 compares to the 5.3 powerwise? I did drive one years ago, I think is was a 2000 or 2001, and It seemed to move along just fine with that engine. Me and my girl got a 2020 elevation with the 5.3, now that truck can get moving quick in a hurry.
1999-2007 classic gm truck/SUV's are the pinnacle of reliability and ease of maintenance...in fact almost every vehicle in that year range was very nice...a good balance of technology without being a nightmare to work on. GM trucks from these yrs will easy go 300-500k with little trouble
I have found over the years that generally GM vehicles are fairly easy to work on vs Ford and Chrysler products. This is why I prefer them over the others.
I've also found GM is slightly more reliable than Ford and ESPECIALLY Ram. Just my experience. I've known an old GMC Sierra (400k mi), an 09 Saturn Aura (in use, 234k mi), a 2012 Traverse (260k), as well as friends with GMT400s, cateyes, and GMT900S, and various Impalas, Malibus, and Tahoes/Suburbans. All have made it well over 200k without much fuss, with exception of Traverse which needed some additional work. Cant speak for newer ones, as they are too young.
That generation/body style ran all the way to 2013. I have a 2013 Silverado, and so far it's been the most reliable vehicle I've owned in years. So far I've never had a major repair on it. All regular maintenance stuff and consumables (brakes, tires, etc). My previous two cars were both GM, and were nothing but money pits. But my Silverado has been refreshingly reliable (knocks on wood).
I've had 2.0t, 4.3, and 1.8 GM vehicles and all were excellent. I had a 3.0 that was ok but not great. You can save a lot buying used GM if you do your homework. The 1.8 is at 115k with only ticky tack stuff done to it and maintenance. Way cheaper than a carolla or civic.
I have a 2007 2500 since 2012. Currently at 210,000 miles. it has towed a 20 foot box trailer in town for 12 years for about 140,000 miles. Rebuilt the trans at about 190,00. Besides that and an o2 censor just oil changes is all that has been needed. One of the best vehicles I have ever owned. Just a dream to drive.
I have a 2009 LT with 5.3. Mine has 6 speed transmission and drum brakes on rear (?). I installed the upgraded PCV valve cover and had the AFM deleted. Great truck! Only trouble was a leaking wheel cylinder.
I bought an '05 with 250K+ miles for $500. It was overheating and clattered on start up. Yea, replaced oil pump and thermostat. It ran great so I did all the things. Love it.
Got a call at the end of the '13 model year from my guy at Bill Jacobs in Joliet. He said he had a Silverado with a 4.8 and a trailer package. Fast forward to today. I still have it and love it. She's my baby.
I had a 2003 GMC 2500hd with the 6.0 gas engine that went for 600k miles. Used it mostly for work. I replaced it with a 2019 Chevy 2500hd with the 6.0 as well. 95k miles later, zero problems so far.
I too have a 09 Silverado LT crew cab. At 89,000 mi. it went into reduced engine power mode one morning and luckily I was only 4 mi from home. That was the TPS and APS. At 103,000 mi I wasn't so fortunate, was 25 mi from home and engine quit- Fuel system control module replaced. one month later fuel pump went. At 133,00 mi cruising on highway at 70 mph check engine light comes on and here I am again in the dreaded reduced engine power mode, had to have it towed. 5 volt circuit open this time, TPS again with brake light switch. Repair that and take it for a test drive, I get 1/2 mile away and oil pressure drops to zero, O ring on pick up tube. I have maintained this truck religiously. I have changed oil and filter at every 5000 mi with Mobil 1 oil and filter. I wouldn't trust this truck as far as I could throw it!
I have an 09 4.8 with 414,000km on it. Still working like a beast. Only problem is rust and dashboard lit up, but it’s a work truck. I pick up my new 2500 diesel LT Alaskan, z71 next week and this one stays working as a secondary for my business.
My 03' Z71 5.3 has been awesome,have had break downs but one should expect that with any car or truck.Bought new,ext cab 20yrs now and still looks and drives like new.I am a Preventive MAINTENANCE freak,always change oil 3k or less,schedule always followed,now stats.... 217k miles, Just recently had the original radiator done tank split,175k Alternator replaced original at 185k,still good,but i saw a change in the guage reading Front axels 90k left,120k right,and most recently replaced both again 210k Body mount bushings 180k,omg what a difference 195k cats and stainless magnaflow exhaust 190k all new ac system,complete,tough summers in SE 100k new shocks,steps,brakes,calipers,rotors,150k same,200k same All brake lines 180k, 185k Head liner,All new tint,and new windshield Fuel pump 150k Guage Cluster 170k COMPLETE LIGHT KIT 3X'S NOW,3rd TIME WENT TO GM,HOLY CRAP ARE THEY CROOKS,BUT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN QUALITY,I GOT 13 YRS OUT OF THE ORIGINAL LIGHTS,GOT TIRED OF BUYING LIGHT KITS.EACH HEAD LIGHT ALONE WAS 275,AND NO BULB,YIKES Im retired and disabled and did not want a new truck payment,in the last 1.5 yrs i have done things for preventive reasons and upkeep,for approximately 10k,still better than a new truck pymnt,besides it is still mint has everything i need except the plug for my hair dryer,LMAO,JUST KIDDING,,AND MOST OF ALL IM AT EASE BC I KNOW WHAT I HAVE,HOW RELIABLE IT HAS BEEN,AND IT HAS SAVED MY LIFE DUE TO ITS PERFORMANCE CAPABILITIES WITH CRAZY DRIVERS,IT IS A BAD ASS TRUCK,LOVE IT,AND IT IS LONGER THAN MY 66'IMPALA SS,HOLY MOLY,PEACE TO ALL
the LS engines are all very good. AFM is a killer but can be fixed. One important thing to note is to try and get a newer one (post 2009) with a 6l80e vs an earlier model like this one with a 4l60e. However sometimes you get a particularly stubborn 4l60e that just wont call it quits. These trucks are everywhere with many miles, and will be around for years to come.
The 4l60e is quirky xmsn. The dang solenoids are their achilles heel. When they go bad, they don’t throw a code. Mine wouldn’t upshift to o/d at around 92k mi. Turned out one of the 3 solenoids. I went ahead replaced all of them. I wonder how many xmsns have been rebuilt/replaced when it was a simple electrical problem?
I have an 02 with the 4160e. Still original with 364k miles and I have never changed the fluid. My bad, but it's still shifting great and I've been told don't even think about changing it now. I'm sure it will go eventually but used & rebuilt ones are cheap and plentiful and I know a ton of mechanics that won't charge me an arm and a leg in labor.
Fwiw 07-08' uses 4l60e, the rest of that of gen uses the 6L80e. I'm not sure which is better, probably the 6l80es tho. I believe they have a 5th gear? So they're a bit more fuel efficient.
I bought my 08 2500 6 litre work truck with 110,000 km on it in 11. Now it's 220,000 km and running well. It our family/ neighborhood runner, and my primary winter rocket, for my northern Canada needs. In summer we have some nice rides, but the reliable 08 is the best comfortable duty driven sacrificial lamb that costs me nothing for crap weather and rough projects. It's our go to no worries truck. I get teased all winter, but I buy Vette and Boss tires all summer off the money I save off this truck.
I have a 3500 6.0 - it will tow yes, but it starts struggling at just under 6,000 lbs. Made me miss my last truck so bad I bought that truck back. Still cant sell this 6.0 and I’ve had a lot of people guarantee me they can make it live up to the GM hype people give it. Its been listed for 2 years - its my front yard ornament. Wont even sell for $1500 in a rust free state. Its been a PNW truck since new.
@@roundsm18 That's crazy! In Canada that truck would be gone in 1.5 seconds!!!! I just tucked away my 04 Duramax for the winter, and the 6.0 is back to winter duty :-) Guess folk in your hood don't know what their missing Roundsm. Cheers
buying a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD Vortec Max for my son to have while he is away at University on the other side of the country. We are replacing all the fluids/filters and major items and looking forward to the drive/bond from coast to coast. Hoping to get 4 more years and lot of memories.
Thank you Car Wizard. I have a 2005 Tahoe with 412, 560 miles on it with only valve cover gaskets changed on the motor. Good info and appreciate it sir!
A friend of mine had an 08 extended cab z71 as his work truck and it had well over 300k miles before it was totaled. It was a great truck and very dependable for him
I have started doing some of my own repairs on my 2009 Silverado. The Number 8 spark plug is a real pain to get at for changing out. I also changed out the Oil Pressure Sensor and if I took it to a Chevy shop it would be a high cost. (Unless you know how to get to the Sensor) Make sure to change out the filter if you change out the sensor. Your thoughts? Living in rural South Dakota a good 4x4 is a must. I really like my 2009. Thanks for letting others know.
We sold off all diesil s and have GM 6.0 gas now. No troubles some have 300,000 on original motors transmission in Vans and utility trucks... 2001-2008 our fleet. New ones with AFM high pressure fuel injection and multi cylinder system not good . Keeping old truck s . Spray underside with Krown rust proof grease (not tar) every fall before road salt winter.
I got an 07 Suburban, bought it with 160k now has 298k on it. No lights no issues 1st motor 1st trans. The only things I have had to do to this truck is basic maintenance that you would expect to do. The only thing that I did to mine so that I did not have to deal with the AFM failure was tune it out so that the 5.3 stays in v8 mode. it is one of the best cars I have ever owned. The only thing I would say that sucks is the number 8 spark plug but its not the worst I have dealt with.
@@monkeyCmonkeyDoo My average is 16 MPG but to be fair I am lifted 3" up front and 1-3/4" in the rear, on 33x12.5x20s and have a heavy foot. If I am on a highway run though it jumps up to 18-20 mpg if I keep the cruise control on.
I have always been a Chevy guy. But my dad has a 04 dodge 2500 with the hemi. It has 225k and has had no major service, still going strong. I love both
While I agree with everything in this video. I would also suggest the older gen 3 trucks just as much, 99+ if you don’t hate the styling or interiors, they are just as good, if not better.
I actually prefer these for the simple fact they are OBD2 which makes problem diagnosis much easier for someone like me who has all the scanners and such. Plus I personally have a lot more experience working on LS motors than the older style small blocks.
I got a 99' Chevrolet silverado new body of thay year. And it has only 110,427 miles on it and i fricking love the thing. Has rust but it as for a good while. I live up north so. But its somthing thats easy to replace. I wanna do a cam and cold air intake for it soon.
@@Blackout75 I have a 96 Tahoe with 350+ K miles. No problems, daily driver. I am in Michigan so the body is just about all rusted through but it's dependable!
As a retired tech I agree with your assessment of this truck. Afm can be troublesome, overall very reliable, easy to work on better than the new ones. Here in new England they rust like everything else. Tough to find a clean one. Thanks for the posting. I enjoy your videos.
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 4x4 with the aluminum block L76 6L with active fuel management. I LOVE my truck, it absolutely hauls ass and the 4x4 is stealthy, you really can’t tell it’s a four wheel drive. I’ve owned it since it came off lease in 2010. I’ll never buy another truck.
I've had Chevy trucks since 1968. In 2009 I bought a new 2500HD with the 6.0. In 2012 I bought another one. In 2011 they upgraded the running gear to more HD, that was the only reason. Since they discontinued my beloved extended cab in 2013, I will be keeping my 2012 as long as possible. That will be easy because I love it! The 6.0 makes great linear power, and with the 3.71 gears it will tow anything I want to tow! I added a bed rug, nice Leer matching cap, running boards, fender flairs, wheel liners in the back and vent shades. The 6 speed trans is the Allison inspired and works great! It gets Mobil_1 and filter every 3k miles around town. Also ALL new fluids every 2 years!! With frequent cleaning, top and bottom it looks great too! I paid 36k for the truck new in 2012. In 2023 the same thing is almost $60k!! I will be keeping my truck for a long, long time!! 8) --gary
Tem beneficio o diesel sim e usado para trabalho pesado, mais para uma pessoa que vai usar so para o dia a dia e melhor uma pickup com com motor a gas. Mais aqui no Brasil nim compensa por causa do custo da gasolina 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a 2012 silverado. Took it to a dyno shop and had the afm turned off and a mild tune done. Been driving it for about 10,000 miles now(current mileage is 105k) and so far no issues at all other than a $5 airflow sensor.
2011 extended cab 5.3. my first truck and a great truck. Oil pressure sensor went out and I've had a couple issues with the door / window switches getting wonky but they were easy enough to fix myself.
I have same year, having problems with windows and doors as well. I've been driving in M5 for the past few months to keep it from going in 4 cylinders. Works like a charm.
A family member of mine has an 08 Yukon Denali 6.2. It's a really nice car, and is scary fast given what it is. They use it to tow a boat, and the magnaride suspension makes it sit level with a 30 foot pontoon boat on the back. The only downside is the AWD system that can be tricky to maintain and it gets 15 mpg on the highway. I don't find it comfortable, the seats are good, but driving it, my legs are bent awkwardly and hit the steering wheel even with the seat all the way back and pedals all the way forward. The back seat is even worse.
@@Tracert-mc1hu interesting.. I've owned Yukon, Yukon xl, and suburban. The longer wheelbase ones are more comfortable. I believe the 6.2 doesn't have AFM.
@@bowmanjeff8 Theirs does not have AFM. I have an 02 Suburban (base, 5.3 non AFM), and I find it comfortable. The driver's seat could use another few inches of travel, but my knee doesn't hit the wheel. The back seat is also comfortable for me, as well as the 3rd row. In the Yukon, the 3rd row sits an inch and a half off the floor with no cushion, and about 4 inches of room before the back seat starts. The only way I can fold myself back there is to put my legs in the aisle. The joys of being 6' 3".
@@Tracert-mc1hu The problem for me with the seat is the back/headrest isnt quite tall enough, I'm 6'6 and its a bit uncomfortable. I sure do miss my old Z71.
180k on my 07 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 that comes without afm. Love it and the 410hp! Really gets up and goes, but I may need a transmission rebuild in a year or so (doesn't hold on 5th gear for long), but been good otherwise. Have maintained myself and added a billet torque converter too. It performs really well and the interior and exterior are flawless also due to upkeep and care. Not confident in anything with the afm technology though unless deleted.
Have a 2018 with the 6.2 LS motor. It has had no issues. Definitely like the power over the 5.3. It tows very similar to my old Duramax. Time will tell how well it holds up. Approaching 50,000 now.
Sorry man but there's just no way a 6.2 tows as well as any Duramax. My wife's 6.2 Escalade runs great but towing our 21' Pontoon thru the mountains in AZ in low-heat (early summer) was one-time deal, never again. My 3500 Duramax does it 80 mph up hill, in the heat with a 6"lift and 35" tires and doesn't even know that same pontoon is behind it. I can understand what you're saying maybe around town for a short tow or on flat ground but they just are not even in the same league. Either way, these era are GMs are fuggen epic aren't they?!?
I have a 2011 Sierra with a 5.3 and AFM. I installed a Range Technology Active Fuel Management Disable Device which keeps it in V8 mode all of the time. So far I have had no problems and it is very easy to install.
2010 Silverado Z-71 with 232,000 on the clock. Truck has been a dream to own and maintain. Front right wheel bearing has been the only breakdown. Only expenses have been fluid changes and wear items like shocks & brakes. If the engine ever lays down I’ll re-power it.
I had a 2010 Sierra Denali with 6.2L it was perfect truck pretty much. Only better truck i had only because of towing was 2006 GMC Sierra 2500 with Duramax. My folks have a 2012 Silverado with 5.3 and it’s got like 150k+ and it’s just as powerful and smooth as day 1. All this said my dads a master mechanic and machinist for 50+ years so Im well trained myself and your absolutely right about these trucks if you maintenance them normally or better they will run over the energizer bunny and it’s offspring because they keep going and going and going!🤣
My 2008 silverado has three hundred and three thousand and runs like new uses no oil..I run 5w30synthetic oil and change filter at3,000 miles and replace oil and filter at 6,000 runs like new..no problems..z71 extended cab..2 wheel..
I like my 2011, but I got an OBD2 plug-in that keeps it full time v8. Trying to keep that valve train working. Gas mileage around town actually got better. 14.6 mpg went to 14.7. Small victories.
Hey Wizard!…I have a 07 Silverado with 293,000 and some change and it still runs like a champ! By far the best truck I have ever bought. I do all my maintenance myself except wheel alignments because I do not have the equipment to do that either or I would lol. I recently purchased a bidirectional scanner and figured out how to work and understand it and I have recently diagnosed and fixed my Evap problem and a misfire I had back in the summer. When I’m ready to buy another one I hope I can find another one just like it!
Aye…. The 5.3 in these years had that AFM problem. Same thing with Dodge Ram starting in 06. Also stay far away from the 5.4 3v! At least the GM is easy to work on.
I have almost that same truck. Z71 tho which gets you locking rear diff and I think beefier rear shocks. They have two major common issues to look out for. In the 5.3 the heads on the exhaust manifold bolts break off. Extracting these bolts is difficult with the engine in the vehicle. Namely the rear driver's side bolt which commonly does break it's very close to the firewall. You need a high end mig welder with shielding gas in order to weld a nut on the broken off stud (they pretty much always break off flush with the cylinder head and there is not enough room to use an ez out etc) to then back out the broken stud. Most of the other bolts are accessible enough to use an extractor etc but the best and easiest method is to use a nice mig welder with shielding gas to weld nuts to the broken off bolts. This is an extremely common issue on these vehicles so much so they sell aftermarket clamps that bolt to the cylinder head and puts pressure on the exhaust manifold to seal up the leaks caused by broken manifold bolts. These clamps sound ludicrous but do work since it's usually the same three bolts that break so installing the clamps may seal up the manifold and you're set to go. The clamps don't always work tho for various reasons. If you do use the clamps loctite all the bolts. Listen for a ticking noise while running especially when cold and inspect the exhaust manifold before purchase. Paying a shop to replace the exhaust manifolds and bolts will be fairly expensive depending on condition etc. Expect, $750 to $1500 out the door depending on which bolts are broken how rusted the bolts are etc. It's a difficult job overall in a tight space. The other big expensive common issue on the 5.3 is a rear main seal leak. Despite what the wizard says a leak in the area he shows is commonly the rear main seal. Occasionally it will be the oil pan or oil cooler line cover plate (like he said) but more often than not (especially at higher mileages) if you see a leak just like he shows it is the rear main seal. This leak tends to develop by about 100 to 150k. Like any rear main seal leak the transmission must be removed to replace the seal. In a 4wd that involves removing the transfer case as well so youre looking at another expensive repair in the range of $1200 to $2000 or so varying greatly depending on shop and 2wd or not etc. There is nothing unusual about the job it is just labor intensive and takes a while. One tricky part is disconnecting the exhaust system. Where it connects to the exhaust manifold there are three bolts each side which depending on age salt etc. may or may not come out. You could do the rear main with buddy's in a garage or driveway with out a lift but you will need extra tall jackstands (to be able to raise the vehicle enough to roll out the transmission), a jack with a nice high lift, possibly oxy acetylene to heat up the exhaust bolts for removal (MAP gas may work) and a transmission jack. After that it's just wrenching. Although that sounds daunting these are great trucks with few other common big issues, neither an oil leak or an exhaust leak is going to leave you stranded. They are very reliable. Very very easy and straightforward to work on as was mentioned. The wizard didn't mention that the frame is "fully boxed" which results in a strong and very durable very rust resistant frame. The fenders etc do rust like any vehicle but that's to be expected, maintenance is key to avoiding this. The interior bench seat design is excellent imo love the classic column shifter and front bench seat. Simple easy to clean dash and HVAC. The auto climate control is a little buggy, but not terrible. Expect a few cheap and easy repairs here and there as you should expect with any vehicle. The transmissions are average in durability. Use high quality dex 6 as is recommended, change the ATF and filter with dex 6 about once every 100k. And the trannies should go to over 200k before needing a rebuilt barring an abnormal failure or if it's abused. Always turn off overdrive if towing. Expect a shorter transmission life if you're often working it hard, (high heat climate, towing, lots of city driving, off-roading, plowing, etc) Overall a simple reliable well designed vehicle that with proper care and maintenance should serve a motorist well. Definitely one of the best trucks you can buy for the money.
@Bones McGillicuddy you maybe could. One problem with the weld a nut on method is not getting a good bond between the weld, the broken stud and the nut. And when you go to turn the nut and hopefully the stud out, the nut just breaks off. So it would seem a mig with gas would provide the best bond. I've never actually done this but I've asked people that have and they seem to say a nice mig with gas works best or that's what they prefer to use. I have a 110v flux core mig welder. Knowing how it welds I'm not sure I'd be able to stick a nut on the stud successfully with it. But I'm a total amateur welder too. It may be that you could do it with your run of the mill flux core welder I don't know but suspect you would have trouble getting a good bond.
I should update this, I ended up replacing the three broken exhaust manifold bolts on my truck in the driveway. Actually not too bad of a job. I was mistaken when I said the bolts almost always break off flush...actually more often than not they do not break off flush. None of mine were broken off flush. You can check this before starting by feeling around or looking at it with a flashlight and a mirror if needed. They usually break off right at the head. So you have a good 3/8" - 1/2" or more of broken off bolt stud to grab, usually on every broken bolt. You have to remove the exhaust manifold of course (or undo all the bolts and move the manifold off to the side, you pretty much have to remove it though if you want to use a stud extractor) which involves the three nuts per side at the manifold to downpipe connection. I used what's called a stud extractor to remove each broken bolt, honestly pretty easy. Map gas or heat is your friend. Penetrating oils don't really do much of anything, it's heat that does it. but go ahead and soak everything in penetrating fluid just because. Honestly I think the stud extractor would have worked without heat, but with heat they do come out a bit easier. With the manifold removed even the drivers side rear bolt there is enough room for the stud extractor, after that easy peasy. There's lots of videos on removing the three bolts per side where the manifld connects to the catalytic converter portion of the exhaust. These are kind of a bear. Get yourself some MAP gas and heat each one up like crazy, cherry red is ideal, can't really overdue it on the heat. Most will come out with a deep socket on an impact. Sometimes with no heat. I ended up using a grinder to cut a few off, the studs are easy to replace so don't be afraid to cut them off with a grinder. Pass side one bolt is kinda close to an o2 sensor, a lot of people say to remove the o2 sensor so you can get a socket on it. I managed it without removing the o2 sensor, you do have to use a wrench in this case. Can't remember what I did, might have ground that one off or used a wrench. Heat, heat, heat tho is your friend for all of this. Including removing exhaust manifold bolts that haven't broken. Soak them for a couple days in penetrant and heat each one up before removing, using a regular long socket by hand and a 6 point socket, do not use an impact. Once you get a turn or two on the bolt switch to the impact and spin it out. All of mine but one came out doing this, one I broke off by accident, not a big deal they break off right at the head so the stud extractor got it no problem. Easier job than I thought.
I have a 2009 Silverado LT 5.3L. Definitely keep an eye on the oil levels. I was burning about a qt every 1,000 miles. Changed the valve cover with the PCV. My oil consumption reduced drastically. At 145,xxx miles now I've had no major issues other than typical cheap GM crap. I've replaced the master cylinder (never flushed it for 7+yrs), evap canister, PCV, power window switch panel on 2 doors, center console lid. I probably should do the AFM deflector add bulletin, but a recent leak down test shows the engine is still really strong. Definitely flush the brake fluid often. I believe my master cylinder leak was caused due to lack of maintenance on my part.
I have it's distant twin, a 2008 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ and it has 441,000 kms, and it's phenomenal. Incredibly reliable and rugged. Toyota's are nice, but frames rust up here in Canada badly. Keep up with oil changes and other services, and these things run like gems.
I bought my 02 Avalanche North Face Edition new. It was the most reliable truck I ever owned. But, I recently had to let it go. The entire drivetrain was still working perfectly. The road salt here in New England totally destroyed the entire frame. Could not put it up on a lift anymore. The frame was rusted so badly you could easily poke a screwdriver thru it in many places. It finally broke and was no longer roadworthy. Sold it to a wholesale auction house for parts. If Chevy ever brings the Avalanche back, I would definitely buy one. No other 4 door crew cab truck can take 4x8 sheets of plywood or Sheetrock and close the tailgate. The Avalanche had two tailgates, one in the rear and another in the front.
Always thought it was odd that the early GMT800s came with 4 wheel disc brakes until like 05-06 then when this body came out they kept using drums as well
@@weegeemike Yeah, I had a friend with an 01 Silverado and his had factory disc brakes, and my 02 Suburban has factory disc brakes (though I'm pretty sure the suburbans were the first to get them and never switched back).
Looks like a rear end swap from a suburban or GMT800 with rear discs. Side note the NHT Max tow gmt900 trucks came with a 2500 rear, heavier axles, deeper ratio, and rear discs. This isn't one of them or it would have the 6.2.
Wizard I love watching your videos. Your are super talented and the detail you go into is awesome. Thanks for putting some awesome stuff out there!! I owned an ‘07 Silverado base trim with 4.8 - - - solid as a rock. It was a little under powered but still very solid, very reliable. I have also owned 2010 LT with the 5.3L. You are correct in that those motors are easy to work on - and I got real familiar with them. Mine used oil like no one’s business - put oil in it constantly. I never had to change a coil pack but did have to change spark plugs on cylinder 4 and Think 7 because of constant fowling. That had something to to with DOD. The interior was very comfortable in the LT (not the in the base trim). However both vehicles dash boards broke completely out. Horrible. The base model at 128,000 and the LT at about 135,000. My parents had a 2013 - still in that same generation - that had only transmission issues at like 150,000 or something like that. They put 220,00 on theirs and zero issues. I think the dash in theirs cracked as well but not like mind did. The a big different to me is the oil used - I think in 2012 the 5.3L started using a thinner oil with dexous - what ever that is. Theirs did not use at all!! Plugs didn’t foul - nothing!! My base model was traded for a 2015 (new) LT Silverado with the 5.3L. I currently have 198,000 and have a trans rebuilt at 92,000 - other than that nothing - not a single thing mechanically. The 2010 LT was traded for 2020 Ford with 3.5 Ecoboost - then traded back to a 2015 Yukon with the 5.3L. That 5.3L has 115,000 miles and so far no issues - although I did have to replace the thermostat and sensor right off - it was very easy. So I agree - either generation is a good pick for more modern power and reliability and ease of maintenance - but my opinion (for what it is worth) is the next generation after the 2007 is the better pick.
Bought 2009 GMC 2500HD new in December 2008. 5.3, 6 speed auto, No AFM! Towing pkg. Snowplow pkg. 250,000+ miles. Maintain it myself. Brakes, shocks, fluids, filters, plugs and wires etc. Only non-routine items are both front wheel hubs and the power steering fluid cooler. Unfortunately I drove it in PA and OH winters so the engine/drivetrain will outlast the sheet metal . Lots of pulling 9,000 pound trailer loads. High RPM a must on the PA hills! One of the best pickups I have owned.
I had a 2008 Silverado identical to this one with almost the exact same mileage. Replaced 3 transmissions and when the 3rd went bad it blew a rod bearing. Bought a 2002 Suburban 2500 (Same as the silverado 2500) and I have to tell you it's a far better vehicle minus the rack and pinion steering.
Oil pump in the tranny had an update in 09. I had the same 08 truck and had nothing but issues. Tranny flare that would damn near lock up the rear wheels and send you into the windshield on the 2-3 shift. Needed new tranny after only 90000kms and electrical issues from hell leaving me stranded numerous times. Could have just been a lemon, not to sure but gm support was terrible. Was always a chevy guy but that one was junk!....should have watched the whole video first, I had the 5.3 with a 6l80 behind it.
@@terrybull4604 yep i have the 6L80 and 5.3L as well. It’s been my first “car” since high school and though I have better cars now I still like driving my ‘09 Silverado crew cab.
Hey Wizzard. I own an 2011 That I bought new. Totally agree! I bought it for the motor alone, also the floor shift transfercase. Mine only has half that mileage. But has been the best vehicle I've owned so far. Only problem is I live in Upstate NY and the rust has started.
I have a 2008 chevy Silverado Canadian model.5.3 full posi no fuel shutdown got 2 speeding tickets with this truck. All stock. It needs a complete rebuild. Thank you for this video.
The best gas engine is the 6.0 vortec, true workhorse motor, 350k+ on mine still running like new, only thing in the engine replaced is spark plug maintenance
The last reason you mentioned around 12:00 is the reason I love my Chevy 2500hd gasser. I’ve never called a mechanic that didn’t want to work on it. Almost seems like they put me at the front of the line because they know it’s easy to work on.
I’m a GM guy…so I’m biased…I love my 03 Sierra 2500 HD, I also have an 02 Sierra 2500 HD farm truck…both are as dependable as an Axe. I have had a couple 08 and newer Silverado/Sierras and the new 07 to 13 trucks were problematic compared to the older and newer machines. I contributed it to GMs finances at the time. I think they cut corners and issues manifested after the warranty period.
That’s one thing I noticed on mine when I worked on mine. It was like the fundamental design of parts was good, but I got the impression they cut a lot of corners on materials and manufacturing methods of the parts. I had broken rear leaf spring which apparently was an issue on them. Evap system issues. Lines on top of fuel pump assembly corroded and started leaking fuel. It did last to 235000 but it finally died due to AFM system failing with collapsed lifter on cylinder 7 that damaged the cam. In retrospect, I did notice a minor drop in oil pressure leading up to that which I suspect was that little white gasket on the oil pump that was known to crack on those.
I believe that the 2500s avoided a lot of the issues that the 1500s were prone to but man, it seems like 07 and up 1500s even the brand new ones are nothing but issues :/
So that sellers will try to pay him to get the sticker. Like any bloody "Approved" sticker in this planet. You pay, you stick it, you profit. Dont give him strange ideas lol
And when exactly do you think that this window sticker should be applied to a vehicle? I think perhaps you would be better off sticking your tongue on the window on a freezing cold day
I have officially watched every video you have ever made, I Live in Cape Town South Africa and randomly met another guy and I mentioned that you are one of my favourite channels and it turned out he was a huge fan of it and hoovies already, so thats how far your reach is .
My family has an 07 Yukon XL Denali and it’s got 297k on it with the original power train. Truck is a beast. Luxury, practical and the 6.2 nearly runs a 6 flat 0-60
I highly recommend deleting or turning off the AFM system to anyone I know that drives any GM vehicle with the 5.3L. Even with regular oil change intervals, that engine is notorious for collapsed lifters. I don't know if it is related but I have seen a trend for collapsed lifters on engines where the valley plate wasn't properly torqued from the factory. I have also noticed continued oil pressure issues after repairing and deleting the system - pressure drops below 20 psi at idle. Granted I didn't do a full delete, just removing the solenoids and retuning the engine.
@@ElverGalarga-tw4cc you got very lucky. I’ve done everything short of replacing the cam and lifters. New oil high flow oil pump at 200k. I’m hoping this will last until 300k.
“Emotion driven”. That is why you don’t take your Ford to a mechanic who is a Chevy guy. This isn’t a slam, it’s just confirming his point. When he talks about cams, pulling the heads, dealing with active fuel management “it’s no big deal.” Whatever you own, you don’t want the mechanic to hate what you drive.
The first thing I do with every late model in my possession is to snap off the useless plastic cover and immediately toss it. The early 2000s trucks were really good. Drive by wire was a definite step backwards. The 07 and later had chintzy feeling interior plastic that crumbled, and marred the feeling of quality that the previous generation had. As part of the redesign, GM made sure to include the debris traps above the rear wheels, in order to get some rust starting within a few years, so that people will keep trading them in. 5.3s will easily go 400k miles and 6.0s will go 600k if treated right.
Chevy had the square body OBS and cat eyes where my favorite vintage with the 2500 had the 6 liter with 4l80e was the best work truck I had . But the BBS was the lowest point in GM . The parts bin was the worst on even corvettes using a steering wheel out is a cobalt and the knobs and clusters where the worst . BBS is what I refer to as the Bailout Body Style
You mentioned the undercoating and we can see it under the truck. I'd mention that this stuff seals in moisture and accelerates rust. Instead of using this stuff, get cans of "rust converter" paint. Every hardware and big box store has the stuff. It will chemically convert rust to a stable hard substance that won't continue destroying your vehicle.
I was never a mechanic until my friend's vehicle had a Bent rod and dropped lifter i bought a book & looked at videos on UA-cam and when I fixed it i was very happy & continued my journey on fixing vehicles and bought a maxicom 808 i appreciate UA-cam mechanics on teaching me everything i know 🎉😁
I have a 2012 Silverado and it’s been a great truck for me. As for the aftermarket rear discs and calipers, I bet it came with factory rear drums. Mine did.
You can run a chip that plugs into the obdll under the dash that disables the Afm while driving I highly recommend as they are only $150 or less. But like he said easy to work on. I did a complete Afm removal in my garage. Typically gmt900 or nnbs models came with drum rear brakes in the rear. This may explain the upgrades in the rear
Same here ran the chip until the head gasket started leaking. What an opprtunity to phase out AFM and DOD as well as add a light stage one cam. Pair that with a conservative tune new injectors and update valve springs. The trucks runs and sounds awesome. All work was done with the engine still in the truck.
International Harvester Scouts, farm equipment was sold by my uncle in Monte Vista Colorado, for many years. So, our family had a close association with the great brand. Family loves GM brand trucks and vans too. Great video.
I got a 2013 silverado 4.8. Only issue i have ever had was my transmission oil pan gaket started leaking. Was a good weekend project for me and my son. No AFM issues just a reliable truck that i will ride till the wheels fall off!
Keep in mind. Im not so much recomending the AFM models. Mainly the LS based Chevy trucks. The 4.8 engine does not have AFM.
But even AFM beats the hell out of a Triton 5.4.
Wow ....... Well we have a 2005 expedition triton 5.4 flawless engine but!! Oil change every 4k and new style of spark plugs. So ya no one has that type of time and effort 🤣🤣🤣
what about Ford's 4.6?
You have an opinion.
What about 2012 to 2017 ford 5.0 v8 vs Chevy afm models
@@isaac4273 Ford used the 4.6 2V until 2010, and suffers no reliability issues at all, only real downside was lacking in power and you only ever got a 4-speed auto, whereas the 5.4 started using the 6-speed fairly early on. I've heard later 3V's are a lot better than the earlier ones with the oiling issues (i think it was 08+ or 09-10) but i haven't researched it in depth.
the 5.0 is also a good option as they're also starting to come down in price. I'd also imagine if you bought a 04-10 f150 with the 2V 4.6 (they did have a 3V 4.6 in 09-10 optional), you could probably extremely easily swap in a 2v 5.4 with minimal issues and solve the power issue and not spend a lot of money and have the same great reliability. 97-03 trucks were great but the 04-10+ were a lot more spacious and easier to work on etc.
As a mechanic seeing an engine with so much room to work on is very satisfying.
I love electric fans for this exact reason.
Yeah it’s golden when the car you have there’s like three other engines as options that go in it and you got the smallest one that means you got a ton of room
You mean engine bay. Engines don't have room to work, the engine bay does
I have a 2.7 liter 4 cylinder Tacoma, it’s wonderful to work on.
The 99 to 2007 you can almost have a picnic underneath the hood. 😂
The best year in my opinion was the 1999-2007 before they had all the fuel management bullcrap...
Holy cow I just realized that I beat the car wizard with likes.You guys are crazy, thank you..
Bullstuff then its not vulgar.
i was thinking the same. though the 4.8 didn't ever get the DOD/AFM stuff. but still id rather have those myself if i was to get one. i think they look better too
97-03 for f150s. All had their qwerks though. 3rd gen for rams.
@@CL-ty6wp agreed, 04+ F150’s are a little more spacious but still probably rather have a 97-03 so I can have a 5.4 2V lol I’ve only ever messed with/owned/experienced a 2nd Gen ram, but I hate it, 3rd gens seems a better option but don’t know as much about them. I do know the 3.7/4.7 are junk lol
@@micahrlusk anything with an RFE transmission I would not recommend. The 4th gen with ZF transmission is much more reliable.
I've owned every generation GM truck starting with the 73-87 trucks. Each generation brings new tech or new features so comparing across them all is a little difficult. The older generations tend to be more mechanical and less electronic so they are more reliable. But, the gas mileage was worse in the older generations. My favorite generation is the GMT800 which was 99-07. It's the generation that blends together some newer tech and retains some of the reliability before GM started slowly reducing their quality of parts in search of maximum profits.
Yup. I've got an 02 with 364k and still runs perfect and probably 90%+ original. Still even has the original ball joints. LOL
Agree I have a 02 and it's my 2nd 800 love them still biult like a truck ment to be used as a truck
I've got a 2011 5.3 with dod never had lifters at 236k miles today its been abused to the point where it shouldn't run today the ls platform from 99 to 13 is awesome its all about maintenance after 07 if it does fail its a simple fix DELETE IT just my 2 cents as a mechanic
I gotta '05 w/ th small V8, w/ 185K, & I expect that truck to last me, literally, the rest of my life.. Just had a [body guy-] friend help me take out about a 100 little dents & dings, got new wheels & tires off a 2019 ( a while ago), added a new front & replaced rear bumper & tailgate, re-painted th whole thing, blacked out the trim & th toolbox, sprayed on a bedliner and reupholstered the seats & replaced th headliner. Then added drop-spindles to lower it juuust right.. It DRIVEs lika freakin CADILLAC now, no joke ! And U want me to pay WHAT $50.-to- $70.THOUSAND 😮 fir a new truck ?!? R U outta yer collective fokkinMINDs, GM, Ford & Dodge ? I basically GOTTA brand new truck for $13/14.Grand, INCLUDING what I paid for it initially AND all the repairs/ paint & body work AND the transmission being replaced !
The only reason I can see why I would EVER git rid of her is if I needed to tow [a LOT..] more. Other than that, I'll likely be passing that truck down to my grandkids, and they to theirs..
83 c20 single cab longbed with the 454 was definitely my favorite ❤
I've owned a 2007 GMC Sierra (1st year of this generation) since new and it now has 296,000 miles with only a few minor issues along the way. It's never stranded me, I've done all the repairs myself, and it's simply the best vehicle I have ever owned.
I have and 07 Silverado with 235,000 miles, and it runs like a top. I also do my own repairs, the only big one on this truck was replacing the o ring on the oil pickup tube. That took the oil pressure from about 14 psi at idle to 50 psi at idle. I have been told that apart from routine maintenance, that is the most important preventative repair, and it's usually due around the 200,000 mile mark.
I also have an 07 GMT900 that I purchased new and it currently has 328,700 miles an runs great. Minor repairs along the way that I've done myself. Change oil every 5k, trans & diffs every 50k, and plugs every 100.
Did you all disable the active fuel management? I am about to buy a pristine Tahoe ltz 5.3L and this is my main worry. It is 150,000 miles and still looks brand new inside and out. Would love to get another 100k miles out of her.
You got a Lemon in my opinion.
I’ve got an 08 Silverado with 280,000 on it and the only problem I’ve had with it was a blown valve cover but it only took about 30 minutes to replace while teaching a class how to do it.
My 2009 has 140k miles on the clock trouble free. The 4.8 gm V8 is such a sweet engine. Smooth quiet and does not leak or smoke. No AFM, no flex fuel, no cam timing.
Same as mine, 135k on the clock. Runs like new. Just basic maintenance.
Same here, 09 Silverado with the 4.8 they’re solid and no extra AFM crap
@@juansgotguns_9079mine has 127k all I’m scared of is the transmission going bad
@eleazararriaga3349 brother my 07 is at 220k right now still running like a champ but I've learned to not be scared of when that damn 4l60 curse hits me lol just think of it as a time for improvement when it does you got a damn great truck
@@Aaron-hi9vp thanks that’s what the plan is if the 4l60 goes just rebuild it with a shift kit and a better torque converter and a cooler
After watching this video, I feel better. I bought one of these 2 days ago with 188k miles on it. Truck's in good shape inside and out. One owner, and it's a Southern truck. My buddy, who's a mechanic, put the scanner on it yesterday and there were no codes stored, so I'm happy for that. Plan on taking it in to the shop this week for an oil change and replace the tranny fluid and filter, since the Carfax I bought for it showed no maintenance records.
Don't get a trans flush if it shifts fine. It could break your transmission.
Hows it treated you?
Yo, I have the same truck vortec engine.
5.3 2008.
It has 311k plus miles.
Take care of her she'll last i promise!
@@julierosado1806 That's good to hear. I just bought a 2008 just like the one in the video with 129k miles on it about a month ago, so hopefully it will last a while. I buy full synthetic oil and change it every 4k miles on all my vehicles just to be safe and always change it as soon as I buy a new one.
awesome.
Get it serviced once a year
My biggest issue transmission needed replaced during covid shut down.
But it wasn't cared for very well before I got it 2016.
Fortunately I was able to get one it just took 3 months bc of covid🙄
Not a shabby truck.
Got an ‘09 Sierra with the 5.3 swapped from a 4.8. Bought it at 168,000km (~100,000 miles). Recently hit 200,000 kms and have had literally no issues. Any work done was of my own choosing; lift, bedliner painting, fresh steering, brakes, cold air, etc. Nothing has broken down on me and I love starting that truck every day
I've got a 03 suburban. Absolutely love it. Drives like a dream. I do minor repairs that are doable without a bridge since I don't have one and like you say, it's so easy. 218k miles and running strong. Washing the underside is probably one of the best advice you can give on these cars. I take it to a carwash to get the underside washed once a month. It has zero rust..
I've got an 04, ex state emergency Management truck, 250k, runs awesome, just took it 8 hrs round trip to go camping on an ocean island.
I have a 2000 Silverado LT 5.3 It has a 197000 miles on it Runs perfectly no rust whatsoever When people see it they think it's 10 years newer than it is Only basic maintenance is all it takes to keep it running perfectly We'll have this truck forever I love it
Me too! 2000 GMC Sierra SLT 5.3 with 198K... I'm keeping it forever!
Just wrecked my 2000 LT. I'd love another.
You showed the love, took the time, and now you reap the rewards. Go man go!
Do you still have it?
I gave it to my son-in California.
It has 228000 miles He loves it 3 months ago I bought a 2002 G.M c sierra s l t
with fifty four thousand miles One owner garage kept Had to pay top dollar But was worth it. It's one awesome truck
I Have a 2007 Silverado with this "new" body style, mine also has the 5.3, with the same transmission. its been a fantastic truck. I just crossed over 110,xxx miles.
I am a mid to low experienced mechanic, and was easily able to change spark plugs, wires, etc. myself and all maintenance is done by me. its a fantastic truck.
Great video. greetings from Oregon.
Pretty much the best vehicle built in America.
I have a 2007 Avalanche. Same GMT900 platform, 5.3ltr, 187K miles. She's got a little lifter tick, but still runs VERY strong. I upgraded the transmission to a built 4L75E and it snaps off shifts like it wants to run 9's. I love it. I'd definitely buy it again.
I never cared for the wall-eyed look of those years. 2000 silverado here with over 250000mi. My favorite grille.
@@777jones Its not even the best truck, much less the best vehicle. Not even close. They rot away when they get rained on. Nothing made by GM is the best anything in a normal sense of the word.
@@sjfk1306 all about maintenance, I have an 08 Silverado in the Rust Belt, and it still has all the markings from the assemble line visible, and hardly a spot of orange surface rust on the frame. Def not an ounce of rot
What I like most about this truck is that it isn't lifted to oblivion and obnoxious. It's a sensible, reliable truck. That is what a truck is supposed to be!
I had a 2004 GMC version that I got new for work and drove it throughout the Southeast. I put 775K miles on it and sold it running with the original engine. No major engine work but replaced the trans three times.
The 4l80 would have been better if they'd used it across the board, but the 4l60 isn't bad if built up. The best I've seen a stock 4L60 do is about 230k miles before it finally wore down. Fluid services are 100% key to keeping these alive.
@@flotowncomputerguy6243 yeap, about every 200k miles we had a burned out trans with or without services. We tried both, but they weren't built transmissions
@@flotowncomputerguy6243 I have 92 s10 4.3 with the 4L60 with 240k org motor and trans.Engine has never been opened up.It still has the original gaskets and cat converter from the factory with GM steel stamped on the bottom of it.
@@thsarethbreaks lighter truck less power equals more transmission life.
Wow. I also have the 04 model. Mine is approaching 300K kilometres and I thought that was a lot. I didn't think the gas LS motors went up to 775K miles . Impressive!
I bought a 2013 z71 4 years ago for 18k. Best money spent. I can attest that those problems that you pointed out are truly real and have been remedied on this one. The only thing I've done differently is upgraded the brakes to the tow package. I have also deactivated the active fuel management so that I have a V8 all of the time. The other funny thing is I have a Toyota Corolla as a car. I bought it in 2007. I've never had a problem with that car. There is 230,000 miles on this Toyota that I have. I've always been replacing General things like tires and fluids and brakes. That is it.
Did you get that disabler thing you plug in, or did you delete the active fuel management?
@@montanawhite5699 Diablo Sprint 2 chip
Absolutely agree 100% this generation trucks are very reliable. But it does bother me when people say it’s basically a 5.3 when it’s not. I had an ‘06 Tahoe with the 5.3 and ‘07 Impala SS with the LS4 5.3. My impala also came with “246” heads too which were off of the LS6. LS4 also has higher compression
We bought a '21 Silverado with the 5.3 L84 V8. I had hoped that after 14 model years of cylinder deactivation production, they would have finally figured it out with this generation. The flashing check engine light at 585 miles said otherwise; the lifters failed on two cylinders. If you like arriving at your destination in the vehicle you left in, based on my experience I would recommend against buying anything with cylinder deactivation. We plan on trading it before the warranty runs out.
I got a 14 silverado with afm. 110k+ miles no issues.
You think they'd have the ability to make something work or replace it altogether but that isn't what the consumer wants nor what they're capable of.
@@gamer22ftw You must not check your oil between jiffy lube stops...
You can have the AFM disabled
when you make 50 to 100 k of these trucks a month these things happen. Every Brand has it's faults and possitives, and to the point of the Wizard.... they all will need to be worked on, which one does he want to work on?
No matter if you work on your own vehicle or take it to your trusty mechanic, it's great to know that this generation of GM trucks are "fix-it friendly". Thank you Wizard and Crazy D. 👍
Keeping my 02 Silverado Z71 4x4. It's kind of a rare configuration being an extended cab long bed. You don't see many of those half ton trucks. It's got 348k miles on it I just put $1700 into it doing the rear main seal and and oil pump. It's running so good now it's freaking scary for a truck with 348k miles.
I've grown oddly attached to my '02 Silverado K2500 work truck with the 6.0L and 4L80. Single cab, long bed, 4x4, manual everything.
That's a hell of a truck you have 👍👍
Had the same thing except it was an 01. Wish i never sold that truck.
Those fender flares means it’s rusting out like mine. My 2010 has 173k miles and my AfM lifter tray broke at 143k almost 4years ago causing a damaged cam. I deleted all the AFM with the Texas Speed kit and a non-afm cam. Did all the work myself and even had room to stand between the core support and engine when I did the block/head surface cleaning.
In Iowa every Silverado of that era has rusted fenders. Even the guys who regularly wash and waxed them have the issue. Winter road salt destroys them.
Usually that is the case, but Crazy D's truck is probably fine, as the underside looks fairly clean. It was probably just modified with big wheels and tires in the past before being returned to stock.
@@jordanbell4420 Wishful thinking. I see them all the time where everything else looks mint but the bed side wheel well area has bubbles.
@@EricOrtner fluid film your truck when you get it I don't know why people don't do this in the rust belt 😳
I have flares on my truck and there’s no rust. Same paint as that crew cab Z71 etc. Minnesota truck with 199k on it. I fluid filmed the box when I got it but she’s cherry under the flares
I have to agree with you on this, I have a 2007 Silverado the new body style so basically a 2008, it has 243,000 miles and still runs like new, only major thing I had to replace on it was the throttle body, but nothing other than the normal things to go like ball joints, etc. the ball joints actually lasted 230k miles before I had to replace them and they only had a very slight wiggle
How do you feel about the shitty plastics tho, my girls 09 Tahoe has the worst dash and kick panels I’ve ever seen. And they’re always broken lol
I'm just having to get my transmission rebuilt at 260k miles, 1st-2nd shifts in cold weather sputters my tires, there goes $2850 🙃
2007 Tundra. 325,000 miles. Never had to replace ball joints or throttle body.
@@biddiebon Maybe your tundra wouldn't mind some new ball joints for working so hard all these years, lol
@@usec-voice-1 just had it up on the rack they are still tip top shape.
There's a high schooler in my town who drives one of these and it should have probably been totalled. It looks like it's been jumped in a field a dozen times and the bed is held on by bungee cords... but it somehow still drives.
i got a 2008 silverado, but mine is the 4.8 variant. which is more reliable and doesnt have active fuel management. it has 238k miles, doesnt burn oil. no leaks, never had any trans or engine problems yet. the only issue ive had, was i had to replace the ball joints and wheel bearings twice.
Forgot to say slow af
How you think the 4.8 compares to the 5.3 powerwise? I did drive one years ago, I think is was a 2000 or 2001, and It seemed to move along just fine with that engine. Me and my girl got a 2020 elevation with the 5.3, now that truck can get moving quick in a hurry.
@@FTWGGG it's a cheap but reliable pickup truck the fuck do you want. It's not a model s plaid.
Door hinges squeak and janky? Tailgate actually work?
@@CL-ty6wp i think your watching a video about a dodge bro. this one is about a k1500
1999-2007 classic gm truck/SUV's are the pinnacle of reliability and ease of maintenance...in fact almost every vehicle in that year range was very nice...a good balance of technology without being a nightmare to work on. GM trucks from these yrs will easy go 300-500k with little trouble
I have found over the years that generally GM vehicles are fairly easy to work on vs Ford and Chrysler products. This is why I prefer them over the others.
I've also found GM is slightly more reliable than Ford and ESPECIALLY Ram. Just my experience. I've known an old GMC Sierra (400k mi), an 09 Saturn Aura (in use, 234k mi), a 2012 Traverse (260k), as well as friends with GMT400s, cateyes, and GMT900S, and various Impalas, Malibus, and Tahoes/Suburbans. All have made it well over 200k without much fuss, with exception of Traverse which needed some additional work. Cant speak for newer ones, as they are too young.
My father if alive would disagree with you. He worked for GM, and thought Ford was easier to work on then GM or Chrysler. The older fords.
Ram is just as simple to work on, like the 5.7l Hemi.
That generation/body style ran all the way to 2013. I have a 2013 Silverado, and so far it's been the most reliable vehicle I've owned in years. So far I've never had a major repair on it. All regular maintenance stuff and consumables (brakes, tires, etc). My previous two cars were both GM, and were nothing but money pits. But my Silverado has been refreshingly reliable (knocks on wood).
that's GM for you -- Either it's *really good* or complete nightmare.
I bought three years ago a used 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 and so far it has been a really good truck I love it.
Does your 2013 Silverado have the same engine as the 08 the guy talks about in the video?
@@jamesgeorge65 Mine has the 4.8 litre V8
I've had 2.0t, 4.3, and 1.8 GM vehicles and all were excellent. I had a 3.0 that was ok but not great. You can save a lot buying used GM if you do your homework. The 1.8 is at 115k with only ticky tack stuff done to it and maintenance. Way cheaper than a carolla or civic.
I have a 2007 2500 since 2012. Currently at 210,000 miles.
it has towed a 20 foot box trailer in town for 12 years for about 140,000 miles. Rebuilt the trans at about 190,00. Besides that and an o2 censor just oil changes is all that has been needed. One of the best vehicles I have ever owned. Just a dream to drive.
I have a 2009 LT with 5.3. Mine has 6 speed transmission and drum brakes on rear (?).
I installed the upgraded PCV valve cover and had the AFM deleted. Great truck! Only trouble was a leaking wheel cylinder.
I bought an '05 with 250K+ miles for $500. It was overheating and clattered on start up. Yea, replaced oil pump and thermostat. It ran great so I did all the things. Love it.
Got a call at the end of the '13 model year from my guy at Bill Jacobs in Joliet. He said he had a Silverado with a 4.8 and a trailer package. Fast forward to today. I still have it and love it. She's my baby.
I had a 2003 GMC 2500hd with the 6.0 gas engine that went for 600k miles. Used it mostly for work. I replaced it with a 2019 Chevy 2500hd with the 6.0 as well. 95k miles later, zero problems so far.
Alison or 4l80 ?
I have a 2015 HD 2500 4X4 LT. 6.0. 270,000. So far so good. Hopefully I get to that 5 or 6 hundred K mark. I take very good care of it.
Love my 09 Silverado. 193k and still going strong. I’m a very amateur wrencher but feel confident working on my truck.
I have the same year truck with 108k and it’s having electrical issues
@@stepdaddy21_10 mines an 09 and had electrical issues too. Replaces all of your battery cables, that’s what fixed mine
I too have a 09 Silverado LT crew cab. At 89,000 mi. it went into reduced engine power mode one morning and luckily I was only 4 mi from home. That was the TPS and APS. At 103,000 mi I wasn't so fortunate, was 25 mi from home and engine quit- Fuel system control module replaced. one month later fuel pump went. At 133,00 mi cruising on highway at 70 mph check engine light comes on and here I am again in the dreaded reduced engine power mode, had to have it towed. 5 volt circuit open this time, TPS again with brake light switch. Repair that and take it for a test drive, I get 1/2 mile away and oil pressure drops to zero, O ring on pick up tube. I have maintained this truck religiously. I have changed oil and filter at every 5000 mi with Mobil 1 oil and filter. I wouldn't trust this truck as far as I could throw it!
@@zerklin1 it was the ecu
Yo me too I’ve sent it so many times and it come back stronger and stronger.
I have an 09 4.8 with 414,000km on it. Still working like a beast. Only problem is rust and dashboard lit up, but it’s a work truck. I pick up my new 2500 diesel LT Alaskan, z71 next week and this one stays working as a secondary for my business.
Always love my transmission oil lines resting on my catalytic converter.
Transmissions LOVE heat LOL
Pre-Heaters
That's bad
@@CarWizard 😂
Thankfully I bought mine before the went way up in price. 300k miles on it still running strong!!!
My 03' Z71 5.3 has been awesome,have had break downs but one should expect that with any car or truck.Bought new,ext cab 20yrs now and still looks and drives like new.I am a Preventive MAINTENANCE freak,always change oil 3k or less,schedule always followed,now stats....
217k miles,
Just recently had the original radiator done tank split,175k
Alternator replaced original at 185k,still good,but i saw a change in the guage reading
Front axels 90k left,120k right,and most recently replaced both again 210k
Body mount bushings 180k,omg what a difference
195k cats and stainless magnaflow exhaust
190k all new ac system,complete,tough summers in SE
100k new shocks,steps,brakes,calipers,rotors,150k same,200k same
All brake lines 180k,
185k Head liner,All new tint,and new windshield
Fuel pump 150k
Guage Cluster 170k
COMPLETE LIGHT KIT 3X'S NOW,3rd TIME WENT TO GM,HOLY CRAP ARE THEY CROOKS,BUT THERE IS A DIFFERENCE IN QUALITY,I GOT 13 YRS OUT OF THE ORIGINAL LIGHTS,GOT TIRED OF BUYING LIGHT KITS.EACH HEAD LIGHT ALONE WAS 275,AND NO BULB,YIKES
Im retired and disabled and did not want a new truck payment,in the last 1.5 yrs i have done things for preventive reasons and upkeep,for approximately 10k,still better than a new truck pymnt,besides it is still mint has everything i need except the plug for my hair dryer,LMAO,JUST KIDDING,,AND MOST OF ALL IM AT EASE BC I KNOW WHAT I HAVE,HOW RELIABLE IT HAS BEEN,AND IT HAS SAVED MY LIFE DUE TO ITS PERFORMANCE CAPABILITIES WITH CRAZY DRIVERS,IT IS A BAD ASS TRUCK,LOVE IT,AND IT IS LONGER THAN MY 66'IMPALA SS,HOLY MOLY,PEACE TO ALL
the LS engines are all very good. AFM is a killer but can be fixed. One important thing to note is to try and get a newer one (post 2009) with a 6l80e vs an earlier model like this one with a 4l60e. However sometimes you get a particularly stubborn 4l60e that just wont call it quits. These trucks are everywhere with many miles, and will be around for years to come.
The 4l60e is quirky xmsn. The dang solenoids are their achilles heel. When they go bad, they don’t throw a code. Mine wouldn’t upshift to o/d at around 92k mi. Turned out one of the 3 solenoids. I went ahead replaced all of them. I wonder how many xmsns have been rebuilt/replaced when it was a simple electrical problem?
I have an 02 with the 4160e. Still original with 364k miles and I have never changed the fluid. My bad, but it's still shifting great and I've been told don't even think about changing it now. I'm sure it will go eventually but used & rebuilt ones are cheap and plentiful and I know a ton of mechanics that won't charge me an arm and a leg in labor.
Fwiw 07-08' uses 4l60e, the rest of that of gen uses the 6L80e. I'm not sure which is better, probably the 6l80es tho. I believe they have a 5th gear? So they're a bit more fuel efficient.
@@rustyshackelford7651 6 gears hence the 6 in 6l80
@@Lt_TraggWhat's xmsn?
I like the 2500 and 3500 trucks with the 6.0 gas engine. No cylinder deactivation and will tow up to about 10k pounds without problems.
My 02 is tasted at 9100 with the 5.3 had a 2500 with the 6.0 loved it great truck but horable on gas
If you're pulling 10k with a 6.0 the rpms are just a screaming. 10k buy a diesel.
I bought my 08 2500 6 litre work truck with 110,000 km on it in 11. Now it's 220,000 km and running well. It our family/ neighborhood runner, and my primary winter rocket, for my northern Canada needs. In summer we have some nice rides, but the reliable 08 is the best comfortable duty driven sacrificial lamb that costs me nothing for crap weather and rough projects. It's our go to no worries truck. I get teased all winter, but I buy Vette and Boss tires all summer off the money I save off this truck.
I have a 3500 6.0 - it will tow yes, but it starts struggling at just under 6,000 lbs. Made me miss my last truck so bad I bought that truck back. Still cant sell this 6.0 and I’ve had a lot of people guarantee me they can make it live up to the GM hype people give it. Its been listed for 2 years - its my front yard ornament. Wont even sell for $1500 in a rust free state. Its been a PNW truck since new.
@@roundsm18 That's crazy! In Canada that truck would be gone in 1.5 seconds!!!! I just tucked away my 04 Duramax for the winter, and the 6.0 is back to winter duty :-) Guess folk in your hood don't know what their missing Roundsm. Cheers
buying a 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 RWD Vortec Max for my son to have while he is away at University on the other side of the country. We are replacing all the fluids/filters and major items and looking forward to the drive/bond from coast to coast. Hoping to get 4 more years and lot of memories.
Thank you Car Wizard. I have a 2005 Tahoe with 412, 560 miles on it with only valve cover gaskets changed on the motor.
Good info and appreciate it sir!
A friend of mine had an 08 extended cab z71 as his work truck and it had well over 300k miles before it was totaled. It was a great truck and very dependable for him
I have started doing some of my own repairs on my 2009 Silverado. The Number 8 spark plug is a real pain to get at for changing out. I also changed out the Oil Pressure Sensor and if I took it to a Chevy shop it would be a high cost. (Unless you know how to get to the Sensor) Make sure to change out the filter if you change out the sensor. Your thoughts? Living in rural South Dakota a good 4x4 is a must. I really like my 2009. Thanks for letting others know.
I get to number 8 threw the wheel well . With a few words
@@brttchpmn I am not a small guy and both the number 8 plug and the Oil Pressure sensor caused lots of scratches and more than a few choice words.
We sold off all diesil s and have GM 6.0 gas now. No troubles some have 300,000 on original motors transmission in Vans and utility trucks...
2001-2008 our fleet.
New ones with AFM high pressure fuel injection and multi cylinder system not good . Keeping old truck s .
Spray underside with Krown rust proof grease (not tar) every fall before road salt winter.
I got an 07 Suburban, bought it with 160k now has 298k on it. No lights no issues 1st motor 1st trans. The only things I have had to do to this truck is basic maintenance that you would expect to do. The only thing that I did to mine so that I did not have to deal with the AFM failure was tune it out so that the 5.3 stays in v8 mode. it is one of the best cars I have ever owned. The only thing I would say that sucks is the number 8 spark plug but its not the worst I have dealt with.
Burbans are the best 👍
AFM lifters still fail even when AFM is disabled through a tune.
@@monkeyCmonkeyDoo My average is 16 MPG but to be fair I am lifted 3" up front and 1-3/4" in the rear, on 33x12.5x20s and have a heavy foot. If I am on a highway run though it jumps up to 18-20 mpg if I keep the cruise control on.
@@anortiz94 295k and no failure yet.
I own a 98 gmc best truck ever still on the road with 255,000 still passing smog check here in California.
I have always been a Chevy guy. But my dad has a 04 dodge 2500 with the hemi. It has 225k and has had no major service, still going strong. I love both
My only problem with Dodge trucks is their interior quality but they have fixed that with the newer Rams.
Dodge is junk
⬆️ Nose picker
While I agree with everything in this video. I would also suggest the older gen 3 trucks just as much, 99+ if you don’t hate the styling or interiors, they are just as good, if not better.
I actually prefer these for the simple fact they are OBD2 which makes problem diagnosis much easier for someone like me who has all the scanners and such. Plus I personally have a lot more experience working on LS motors than the older style small blocks.
I got a 99' Chevrolet silverado new body of thay year. And it has only 110,427 miles on it and i fricking love the thing. Has rust but it as for a good while. I live up north so. But its somthing thats easy to replace. I wanna do a cam and cold air intake for it soon.
@@Blackout75 I have a 96 Tahoe with 350+ K miles. No problems, daily driver. I am in Michigan so the body is just about all rusted through but it's dependable!
@@stansmith4054 Ohhh sickkkk!
Amen! 99 to 06.
As a retired tech I agree with your assessment of this truck. Afm can be troublesome, overall very reliable, easy to work on better than the new ones. Here in new England they rust like everything else. Tough to find a clean one. Thanks for the posting. I enjoy your videos.
I wish we had you, your wife, and your staff that could support SoCal... Amazing info ! Thank you !
Right!
I have a 2008 GMC Sierra 4x4 with the aluminum block L76 6L with active fuel management. I LOVE my truck, it absolutely hauls ass and the 4x4 is stealthy, you really can’t tell it’s a four wheel drive. I’ve owned it since it came off lease in 2010. I’ll never buy another truck.
I've had Chevy trucks since 1968. In 2009 I bought a new 2500HD with the 6.0. In 2012 I bought another one. In 2011 they upgraded the running gear to more HD, that was the only reason. Since they discontinued my beloved extended cab in 2013, I will be keeping my 2012 as long as possible. That will be easy because I love it! The 6.0 makes great linear power, and with the 3.71 gears it will tow anything I want to tow! I added a bed rug, nice Leer matching cap, running boards, fender flairs, wheel liners in the back and vent shades. The 6 speed trans is the Allison inspired and works great! It gets Mobil_1 and filter every 3k miles around town. Also ALL new fluids every 2 years!! With frequent cleaning, top and bottom it looks great too! I paid 36k for the truck new in 2012. In 2023 the same thing is almost $60k!! I will be keeping my truck for a long, long time!! 8) --gary
But Car Wizard, in a previous video you recommended not buying the updated Silverado. You said to buy the pre 2007 models.
My same thoughts.
Beats a 5.4 triton
The pre 2007 models are good as well, but the 2007-2014 bodystyle is pretty good other than the Active Fuel Management system
Also a difference between doing it yourself v. paying a mechanic
Tem beneficio o diesel sim e usado para trabalho pesado, mais para uma pessoa que vai usar so para o dia a dia e melhor uma pickup com com motor a gas. Mais aqui no Brasil nim compensa por causa do custo da gasolina 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I have a 2012 silverado. Took it to a dyno shop and had the afm turned off and a mild tune done. Been driving it for about 10,000 miles now(current mileage is 105k) and so far no issues at all other than a $5 airflow sensor.
2011 extended cab 5.3. my first truck and a great truck. Oil pressure sensor went out and I've had a couple issues with the door / window switches getting wonky but they were easy enough to fix myself.
I have same year, having problems with windows and doors as well. I've been driving in M5 for the past few months to keep it from going in 4 cylinders. Works like a charm.
@@durandtopping3023 no body here knows what umean by 'drinking in M5".. what do u mean??
@@18_rabbit I meant driving in M5
Had a 2008 Chevy Suburban 5.3 .. engine had mystery oil disappearance .. The 6.0 without AFM is better, imo. Very comfortable seats.
A family member of mine has an 08 Yukon Denali 6.2. It's a really nice car, and is scary fast given what it is. They use it to tow a boat, and the magnaride suspension makes it sit level with a 30 foot pontoon boat on the back. The only downside is the AWD system that can be tricky to maintain and it gets 15 mpg on the highway. I don't find it comfortable, the seats are good, but driving it, my legs are bent awkwardly and hit the steering wheel even with the seat all the way back and pedals all the way forward. The back seat is even worse.
@@Tracert-mc1hu interesting..
I've owned Yukon, Yukon xl, and suburban.
The longer wheelbase ones are more comfortable.
I believe the 6.2 doesn't have AFM.
@@bowmanjeff8 Theirs does not have AFM. I have an 02 Suburban (base, 5.3 non AFM), and I find it comfortable. The driver's seat could use another few inches of travel, but my knee doesn't hit the wheel. The back seat is also comfortable for me, as well as the 3rd row. In the Yukon, the 3rd row sits an inch and a half off the floor with no cushion, and about 4 inches of room before the back seat starts. The only way I can fold myself back there is to put my legs in the aisle. The joys of being 6' 3".
@@Tracert-mc1hu The problem for me with the seat is the back/headrest isnt quite tall enough, I'm 6'6 and its a bit uncomfortable. I sure do miss my old Z71.
5.3s always have had oil consumption issues. Not a huge deal as long as you keep them topped off.
I love the LS motors. That is why i told my dad to buy a Chevy.They are overall reliable and easy to fix if you need to DIY.
Agreed
the motors are fine, its everything else attached to and around it
Maybe the trucks. DONT EVER buy a Chevy if it isn’t a truck.
@@Rekt-M8-v4 Agreed
No tell your dad to buy a toyota
180k on my 07 Yukon Denali with the 6.2 that comes without afm. Love it and the 410hp! Really gets up and goes, but I may need a transmission rebuild in a year or so (doesn't hold on 5th gear for long), but been good otherwise. Have maintained myself and added a billet torque converter too. It performs really well and the interior and exterior are flawless also due to upkeep and care. Not confident in anything with the afm technology though unless deleted.
Do you know if all '07 Denalis came without AFM? I've owned an 03' and a '16. Love the AWD and the 6.2 but don't want to own another AFM truck.
@@stephenh5166 Right, the 07 and 08s I believe. Enjoying mine!
Have a 2018 with the 6.2 LS motor. It has had no issues. Definitely like the power over the 5.3. It tows very similar to my old Duramax. Time will tell how well it holds up. Approaching 50,000 now.
I had lifters replaced on 2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2 at 54k. Knock on wood
Sorry man but there's just no way a 6.2 tows as well as any Duramax. My wife's 6.2 Escalade runs great but towing our 21' Pontoon thru the mountains in AZ in low-heat (early summer) was one-time deal, never again. My 3500 Duramax does it 80 mph up hill, in the heat with a 6"lift and 35" tires and doesn't even know that same pontoon is behind it. I can understand what you're saying maybe around town for a short tow or on flat ground but they just are not even in the same league. Either way, these era are GMs are fuggen epic aren't they?!?
I have a 2011 Sierra with a 5.3 and AFM. I installed a Range Technology Active Fuel Management Disable Device which keeps it in V8 mode all of the time. So far I have had no problems and it is very easy to install.
I did the same on my 2007 silverado
I got a lifter tick after a while with the range so took it off , no issue with super hip programmer tho
@@roadster9639 Did you have to replace the lifter?
Can you recommend that brand to me in interested
@@elijahmartin9059 I have it installed for almost 2 years and have had no problems.
2010 Silverado Z-71 with 232,000 on the clock. Truck has been a dream to own and maintain. Front right wheel bearing has been the only breakdown. Only expenses have been fluid changes and wear items like shocks & brakes. If the engine ever lays down I’ll re-power it.
I had a 2010 Sierra Denali with 6.2L it was perfect truck pretty much. Only better truck i had only because of towing was 2006 GMC Sierra 2500 with Duramax. My folks have a 2012 Silverado with 5.3 and it’s got like 150k+ and it’s just as powerful and smooth as day 1. All this said my dads a master mechanic and machinist for 50+ years so Im well trained myself and your absolutely right about these trucks if you maintenance them normally or better they will run over the energizer bunny and it’s offspring because they keep going and going and going!🤣
I love my 2011 Silverado with the 5.3 so far Iv only had it a few months, bought it with 61k miles it’s at 63k now she’s not even broken in yet.
My 2008 silverado has three hundred and three thousand and runs like new uses no oil..I run 5w30synthetic oil and change filter at3,000 miles and replace oil and filter at 6,000 runs like new..no problems..z71 extended cab..2 wheel..
I like my 2011, but I got an OBD2 plug-in that keeps it full time v8. Trying to keep that valve train working. Gas mileage around town actually got better. 14.6 mpg went to 14.7. Small victories.
Hey Wizard!…I have a 07 Silverado with 293,000 and some change and it still runs like a champ! By far the best truck I have ever bought. I do all my maintenance myself except wheel alignments because I do not have the equipment to do that either or I would lol. I recently purchased a bidirectional scanner and figured out how to work and understand it and I have recently diagnosed and fixed my Evap problem and a misfire I had back in the summer. When I’m ready to buy another one I hope I can find another one just like it!
Aye…. The 5.3 in these years had that AFM problem. Same thing with Dodge Ram starting in 06. Also stay far away from the 5.4 3v! At least the GM is easy to work on.
Agreed
Afm started in 09 for the 6.2s but started in 07 for the 5.3s.
yes AFM Was trash, it didn't work out in the 80s and it damn sure didn't work in the 2000s
@@JDMHaze Oh, well.
They hate him because he told the truth : afm started in 2007.
Standing next to Crazy D the Wizard looked like a small child... Good to see ya! ✌
That guy is big for real!
Looks like a giant.
I thought that too! Glad my Chev is a '96 with the 350 small block... no AFM
I have almost that same truck. Z71 tho which gets you locking rear diff and I think beefier rear shocks. They have two major common issues to look out for. In the 5.3 the heads on the exhaust manifold bolts break off. Extracting these bolts is difficult with the engine in the vehicle. Namely the rear driver's side bolt which commonly does break it's very close to the firewall. You need a high end mig welder with shielding gas in order to weld a nut on the broken off stud (they pretty much always break off flush with the cylinder head and there is not enough room to use an ez out etc) to then back out the broken stud. Most of the other bolts are accessible enough to use an extractor etc but the best and easiest method is to use a nice mig welder with shielding gas to weld nuts to the broken off bolts. This is an extremely common issue on these vehicles so much so they sell aftermarket clamps that bolt to the cylinder head and puts pressure on the exhaust manifold to seal up the leaks caused by broken manifold bolts. These clamps sound ludicrous but do work since it's usually the same three bolts that break so installing the clamps may seal up the manifold and you're set to go. The clamps don't always work tho for various reasons. If you do use the clamps loctite all the bolts. Listen for a ticking noise while running especially when cold and inspect the exhaust manifold before purchase. Paying a shop to replace the exhaust manifolds and bolts will be fairly expensive depending on condition etc. Expect, $750 to $1500 out the door depending on which bolts are broken how rusted the bolts are etc. It's a difficult job overall in a tight space.
The other big expensive common issue on the 5.3 is a rear main seal leak. Despite what the wizard says a leak in the area he shows is commonly the rear main seal. Occasionally it will be the oil pan or oil cooler line cover plate (like he said) but more often than not (especially at higher mileages) if you see a leak just like he shows it is the rear main seal. This leak tends to develop by about 100 to 150k. Like any rear main seal leak the transmission must be removed to replace the seal. In a 4wd that involves removing the transfer case as well so youre looking at another expensive repair in the range of $1200 to $2000 or so varying greatly depending on shop and 2wd or not etc. There is nothing unusual about the job it is just labor intensive and takes a while. One tricky part is disconnecting the exhaust system. Where it connects to the exhaust manifold there are three bolts each side which depending on age salt etc. may or may not come out. You could do the rear main with buddy's in a garage or driveway with out a lift but you will need extra tall jackstands (to be able to raise the vehicle enough to roll out the transmission), a jack with a nice high lift, possibly oxy acetylene to heat up the exhaust bolts for removal (MAP gas may work) and a transmission jack. After that it's just wrenching.
Although that sounds daunting these are great trucks with few other common big issues, neither an oil leak or an exhaust leak is going to leave you stranded. They are very reliable. Very very easy and straightforward to work on as was mentioned. The wizard didn't mention that the frame is "fully boxed" which results in a strong and very durable very rust resistant frame. The fenders etc do rust like any vehicle but that's to be expected, maintenance is key to avoiding this. The interior bench seat design is excellent imo love the classic column shifter and front bench seat. Simple easy to clean dash and HVAC. The auto climate control is a little buggy, but not terrible. Expect a few cheap and easy repairs here and there as you should expect with any vehicle.
The transmissions are average in durability. Use high quality dex 6 as is recommended, change the ATF and filter with dex 6 about once every 100k. And the trannies should go to over 200k before needing a rebuilt barring an abnormal failure or if it's abused. Always turn off overdrive if towing. Expect a shorter transmission life if you're often working it hard, (high heat climate, towing, lots of city driving, off-roading, plowing, etc)
Overall a simple reliable well designed vehicle that with proper care and maintenance should serve a motorist well. Definitely one of the best trucks you can buy for the money.
Thanks for all the great detailed info!
I am looking at a 2012. I hope it turns out to be a good investment.
@Bones McGillicuddy you maybe could. One problem with the weld a nut on method is not getting a good bond between the weld, the broken stud and the nut. And when you go to turn the nut and hopefully the stud out, the nut just breaks off. So it would seem a mig with gas would provide the best bond. I've never actually done this but I've asked people that have and they seem to say a nice mig with gas works best or that's what they prefer to use.
I have a 110v flux core mig welder. Knowing how it welds I'm not sure I'd be able to stick a nut on the stud successfully with it. But I'm a total amateur welder too. It may be that you could do it with your run of the mill flux core welder I don't know but suspect you would have trouble getting a good bond.
I should update this, I ended up replacing the three broken exhaust manifold bolts on my truck in the driveway. Actually not too bad of a job. I was mistaken when I said the bolts almost always break off flush...actually more often than not they do not break off flush.
None of mine were broken off flush.
You can check this before starting by feeling around or looking at it with a flashlight and a mirror if needed.
They usually break off right at the head. So you have a good 3/8" - 1/2" or more of broken off bolt stud to grab, usually on every broken bolt. You have to remove the exhaust manifold of course (or undo all the bolts and move the manifold off to the side, you pretty much have to remove it though if you want to use a stud extractor) which involves the three nuts per side at the manifold to downpipe connection.
I used what's called a stud extractor to remove each broken bolt, honestly pretty easy. Map gas or heat is your friend. Penetrating oils don't really do much of anything, it's heat that does it. but go ahead and soak everything in penetrating fluid just because.
Honestly I think the stud extractor would have worked without heat, but with heat they do come out a bit easier. With the manifold removed even the drivers side rear bolt there is enough room for the stud extractor, after that easy peasy.
There's lots of videos on removing the three bolts per side where the manifld connects to the catalytic converter portion of the exhaust. These are kind of a bear. Get yourself some MAP gas and heat each one up like crazy, cherry red is ideal, can't really overdue it on the heat. Most will come out with a deep socket on an impact. Sometimes with no heat. I ended up using a grinder to cut a few off, the studs are easy to replace so don't be afraid to cut them off with a grinder. Pass side one bolt is kinda close to an o2 sensor, a lot of people say to remove the o2 sensor so you can get a socket on it. I managed it without removing the o2 sensor, you do have to use a wrench in this case. Can't remember what I did, might have ground that one off or used a wrench. Heat, heat, heat tho is your friend for all of this. Including removing exhaust manifold bolts that haven't broken. Soak them for a couple days in penetrant and heat each one up before removing, using a regular long socket by hand and a 6 point socket, do not use an impact. Once you get a turn or two on the bolt switch to the impact and spin it out. All of mine but one came out doing this, one I broke off by accident, not a big deal they break off right at the head so the stud extractor got it no problem. Easier job than I thought.
I have a 2009 Silverado LT 5.3L. Definitely keep an eye on the oil levels. I was burning about a qt every 1,000 miles. Changed the valve cover with the PCV. My oil consumption reduced drastically. At 145,xxx miles now I've had no major issues other than typical cheap GM crap. I've replaced the master cylinder (never flushed it for 7+yrs), evap canister, PCV, power window switch panel on 2 doors, center console lid. I probably should do the AFM deflector add bulletin, but a recent leak down test shows the engine is still really strong.
Definitely flush the brake fluid often. I believe my master cylinder leak was caused due to lack of maintenance on my part.
Any oil pressure issues?
Did you just replace the valve cover with one that didn’t have a spot for the PCV?
My fuel sending unit is going out on mine, it takes a while for it to read the gas at 132xxx miles
@@jerrycannon6940 no oil pressure issues.
@@blake102989 I replaced it with a valve cover with the redesigned PCV.
Still have a 2001 2500hd 6.0 325,000 Miles.. plugs, fluid changes, brakes batteries ..still going
I have it's distant twin, a 2008 Chevrolet Avalanche LTZ and it has 441,000 kms, and it's phenomenal. Incredibly reliable and rugged. Toyota's are nice, but frames rust up here in Canada badly. Keep up with oil changes and other services, and these things run like gems.
I bought my 02 Avalanche North Face Edition new. It was the most reliable truck I ever owned. But, I recently had to let it go. The entire drivetrain was still working perfectly. The road salt here in New England totally destroyed the entire frame. Could not put it up on a lift anymore. The frame was rusted so badly you could easily poke a screwdriver thru it in many places. It finally broke and was no longer roadworthy. Sold it to a wholesale auction house for parts. If Chevy ever brings the Avalanche back, I would definitely buy one. No other 4 door crew cab truck can take 4x8 sheets of plywood or Sheetrock and close the tailgate. The Avalanche had two tailgates, one in the rear and another in the front.
It’s because the rear wheels came with Drum brakes from factory and they converted them to disc brakes
Always thought it was odd that the early GMT800s came with 4 wheel disc brakes until like 05-06 then when this body came out they kept using drums as well
@@weegeemike Yeah, I had a friend with an 01 Silverado and his had factory disc brakes, and my 02 Suburban has factory disc brakes (though I'm pretty sure the suburbans were the first to get them and never switched back).
Looks like a rear end swap from a suburban or GMT800 with rear discs. Side note the NHT Max tow gmt900 trucks came with a 2500 rear, heavier axles, deeper ratio, and rear discs. This isn't one of them or it would have the 6.2.
Yeah that truck definitely had nearly the whole front suspension recently replaced and they did a rear axle swap on it
My 2010 has drum brakes. Stock with z71 package
Wizard I love watching your videos. Your are super talented and the detail you go into is awesome. Thanks for putting some awesome stuff out there!!
I owned an ‘07 Silverado base trim with 4.8 - -
- solid as a rock. It was a little under powered but still very solid, very reliable. I have also owned 2010 LT with the 5.3L. You are correct in that those motors are easy to work on - and I got real familiar with them. Mine used oil like no one’s business - put oil in it constantly. I never had to change a coil pack but did have to change spark plugs on cylinder 4 and Think 7 because of constant fowling. That had something to to with DOD. The interior was very comfortable in the LT (not the in the base trim). However both vehicles dash boards broke completely out. Horrible. The base model at 128,000 and the LT at about 135,000.
My parents had a 2013 - still in that same generation - that had only transmission issues at like 150,000 or something like that. They put 220,00 on theirs and zero issues. I think the dash in theirs cracked as well but not like mind did.
The a big different to me is the oil used - I think in 2012 the 5.3L started using a thinner oil with dexous - what ever that is. Theirs did not use at all!! Plugs didn’t foul - nothing!!
My base model was traded for a 2015 (new) LT Silverado with the 5.3L. I currently have 198,000 and have a trans rebuilt at 92,000 - other than that nothing - not a single thing mechanically.
The 2010 LT was traded for 2020
Ford with 3.5 Ecoboost - then traded back to a 2015 Yukon with the 5.3L. That 5.3L has 115,000 miles and so far no issues - although I did have to replace the thermostat and sensor right off - it was very easy.
So I agree - either generation is a good pick for more modern power and reliability and ease of maintenance - but my opinion (for what it is worth) is the next generation after the 2007 is the better pick.
Have a 2008 1500 lt with the 4.8 engine. Just hit 380,000 miles with no issues at all. Carry over 2000 lbs on it all week long. Great truck.
Nice
The 6.0 in the 2500HD dont have the AFM. And they are awesome!! Reliable strong truck.
Bought 2009 GMC 2500HD new in December 2008. 5.3, 6 speed auto, No AFM! Towing pkg. Snowplow pkg. 250,000+ miles. Maintain it myself. Brakes, shocks, fluids, filters, plugs and wires etc. Only non-routine items are both front wheel hubs and the power steering fluid cooler. Unfortunately I drove it in PA and OH winters so the engine/drivetrain will outlast the sheet metal . Lots of pulling 9,000 pound trailer loads. High RPM a must on the PA hills! One of the best pickups I have owned.
I had a 2008 Silverado identical to this one with almost the exact same mileage. Replaced 3 transmissions and when the 3rd went bad it blew a rod bearing. Bought a 2002 Suburban 2500 (Same as the silverado 2500) and I have to tell you it's a far better vehicle minus the rack and pinion steering.
Funny. I have a 2009 with 200k miles with the factory engine, factory trans Both are tuned though since 60k miles
Oil pump in the tranny had an update in 09. I had the same 08 truck and had nothing but issues. Tranny flare that would damn near lock up the rear wheels and send you into the windshield on the 2-3 shift. Needed new tranny after only 90000kms and electrical issues from hell leaving me stranded numerous times. Could have just been a lemon, not to sure but gm support was terrible. Was always a chevy guy but that one was junk!....should have watched the whole video first, I had the 5.3 with a 6l80 behind it.
@@terrybull4604 yep i have the 6L80 and 5.3L as well. It’s been my first “car” since high school and though I have better cars now I still like driving my ‘09 Silverado crew cab.
I love the suburban 2500 did you get a 8.1 cause the 454 stopped at 1999. Love the 93-99 ones. And the 8.1 and avalanche 3/4 ton
My 2010 blew 4 trannies iam still messin with it. 😤😠😡
Hey Wizzard. I own an 2011 That I bought new. Totally agree! I bought it for the motor alone, also the floor shift transfercase. Mine only has half that mileage. But has been the best vehicle I've owned so far. Only problem is I live in Upstate NY and the rust has started.
Upstate NY is just rust from salting the roads
I have a 2008 chevy Silverado Canadian model.5.3 full posi no fuel shutdown got 2 speeding tickets with this truck. All stock. It needs a complete rebuild. Thank you for this video.
The best gas engine is the 6.0 vortec, true workhorse motor, 350k+ on mine still running like new, only thing in the engine replaced is spark plug maintenance
I own a 05 5.9 Cummins .But you are correct about that 6.0 that's my favorite GM motor hands down.
@@rickbaier1042 Yessir, I also own an 02 5.9 Cummins, that I swapped in my 96, great motors
They use the same block in the 6.0 as they do in a 5.3
Thanks for is Wizard! I got an 09 GMC 1500 and I love it. Great work truck!
The last reason you mentioned around 12:00 is the reason I love my Chevy 2500hd gasser. I’ve never called a mechanic that didn’t want to work on it. Almost seems like they put me at the front of the line because they know it’s easy to work on.
I’m a GM guy…so I’m biased…I love my 03 Sierra 2500 HD, I also have an 02 Sierra 2500 HD farm truck…both are as dependable as an Axe. I have had a couple 08 and newer Silverado/Sierras and the new 07 to 13 trucks were problematic compared to the older and newer machines. I contributed it to GMs finances at the time. I think they cut corners and issues manifested after the warranty period.
02 2500HD 4x4 here. Love it. Tough as an anvil.
That’s one thing I noticed on mine when I worked on mine. It was like the fundamental design of parts was good, but I got the impression they cut a lot of corners on materials and manufacturing methods of the parts. I had broken rear leaf spring which apparently was an issue on them. Evap system issues. Lines on top of fuel pump assembly corroded and started leaking fuel. It did last to 235000 but it finally died due to AFM system failing with collapsed lifter on cylinder 7 that damaged the cam. In retrospect, I did notice a minor drop in oil pressure leading up to that which I suspect was that little white gasket on the oil pump that was known to crack on those.
I believe that the 2500s avoided a lot of the issues that the 1500s were prone to but man, it seems like 07 and up 1500s even the brand new ones are nothing but issues :/
Lol same gm vehicle just different name
That would make a great window sticker! “Car Wizard Approved” with a caricature of you doing a 👍.
I’d buy these in a heartbeat
So that sellers will try to pay him to get the sticker. Like any bloody "Approved" sticker in this planet. You pay, you stick it, you profit. Dont give him strange ideas lol
And when exactly do you think that this window sticker should be applied to a vehicle? I think perhaps you would be better off sticking your tongue on the window on a freezing cold day
@@glennbeadshaw727 Any vehicle that is recommended on the Wizard’s “Buy this” list would be where you put the sticker. Lack of imagination?
I have officially watched every video you have ever made, I Live in Cape Town South Africa and randomly met another guy and I mentioned that you are one of my favourite channels and it turned out he was a huge fan of it and hoovies already, so thats how far your reach is .
My family has an 07 Yukon XL Denali and it’s got 297k on it with the original power train. Truck is a beast. Luxury, practical and the 6.2 nearly runs a 6 flat 0-60
Same here. wheel hubs and fuel pump the only thing we changed.
The 6.2 didn't have AFM until 2010 so it's way more reliable than the garbage afm engines. Not sure why wizard is recommending the 5.3.
Excellent
@@alexklein455 I think AFM can be disassembled . I am looking into that for my 08 Yukon.
@@Nudnik1 it can be. You need to replace the cam and lifters. The heads need to come off. It's a big job. 1k+ for labor alone at a shop.
I highly recommend deleting or turning off the AFM system to anyone I know that drives any GM vehicle with the 5.3L. Even with regular oil change intervals, that engine is notorious for collapsed lifters. I don't know if it is related but I have seen a trend for collapsed lifters on engines where the valley plate wasn't properly torqued from the factory. I have also noticed continued oil pressure issues after repairing and deleting the system - pressure drops below 20 psi at idle. Granted I didn't do a full delete, just removing the solenoids and retuning the engine.
I have a 08 5.3 with 230k miles still running strong! But eventually do want to delete it
@@ElverGalarga-tw4cc you got very lucky. I’ve done everything short of replacing the cam and lifters. New oil high flow oil pump at 200k. I’m hoping this will last until 300k.
“Emotion driven”. That is why you don’t take your Ford to a mechanic who is a Chevy guy. This isn’t a slam, it’s just confirming his point. When he talks about cams, pulling the heads, dealing with active fuel management “it’s no big deal.” Whatever you own, you don’t want the mechanic to hate what you drive.
The first thing I do with every late model in my possession is to snap off the useless plastic cover and immediately toss it.
The early 2000s trucks were really good. Drive by wire was a definite step backwards. The 07 and later had chintzy feeling interior plastic that crumbled, and marred the feeling of quality that the previous generation had. As part of the redesign, GM made sure to include the debris traps above the rear wheels, in order to get some rust starting within a few years, so that people will keep trading them in. 5.3s will easily go 400k miles and 6.0s will go 600k if treated right.
Never seen a ls2 over 200k without a rebuild, they eat rod bearings like nothing
@@nitricwave6943 of course you have🤣
Chevy had the square body OBS and cat eyes where my favorite vintage with the 2500 had the 6 liter with 4l80e was the best work truck I had . But the BBS was the lowest point in GM . The parts bin was the worst on even corvettes using a steering wheel out is a cobalt and the knobs and clusters where the worst . BBS is what I refer to as the Bailout Body Style
My 2010 6.2 doesn’t have AFM and I love it 😁
I love bench seats !
That truck looks in good shape.
Say it !
Say it!
How much he paid for it!!!
You mentioned the undercoating and we can see it under the truck. I'd mention that this stuff seals in moisture and accelerates rust. Instead of using this stuff, get cans of "rust converter" paint. Every hardware and big box store has the stuff. It will chemically convert rust to a stable hard substance that won't continue destroying your vehicle.
I was never a mechanic until my friend's vehicle had a Bent rod and dropped lifter i bought a book & looked at videos on UA-cam and when I fixed it i was very happy & continued my journey on fixing vehicles and bought a maxicom 808 i appreciate UA-cam mechanics on teaching me everything i know 🎉😁
I have a 2012 Silverado and it’s been a great truck for me. As for the aftermarket rear discs and calipers, I bet it came with factory rear drums. Mine did.
was told from several youtube channels that the 2012 was The Silverado to get. I have a 2000 2nd rear main seal :(
Thats weird, i have a bunch of chevy 2500s from 2000 - 2021s and they all came with 4 wheel disc.. even the 2000
That truck has a rear disk break conversion. The 07-08 nnbs came with rear drum breaks.
You can run a chip that plugs into the obdll under the dash that disables the Afm while driving I highly recommend as they are only $150 or less. But like he said easy to work on. I did a complete Afm removal in my garage.
Typically gmt900 or nnbs models came with drum rear brakes in the rear. This may explain the upgrades in the rear
Same here ran the chip until the head gasket started leaking. What an opprtunity to phase out AFM and DOD as well as add a light stage one cam. Pair that with a conservative tune new injectors and update valve springs. The trucks runs and sounds awesome. All work was done with the engine still in the truck.
Don't take the flares off, I've never seen one the GMs twins 08-13 without bubbling fenders. Including my old 11 Sierra. Otherwise brilliant truck.
Bubbling as in rust?
@@mattcox3373 yessir. This was a huge issue with these trucks. At least in the rust belt
@@ry6346 oh ok. I don’t think I’ve seen that because I live in the south. The 99-06 trucks rust horribly even down here though
@@mattcox3373 the earth takes em all back eventually 🤣
Yep. I don’t think those are factory flares. They’re often used to hide rust. I think WatchJRGo did a flip and used them?
International Harvester Scouts, farm equipment was sold by my uncle in Monte Vista Colorado, for many years. So, our family had a close association with the great brand. Family loves GM brand trucks and vans too. Great video.
I had a 75 scout. I loved that thing, tough as nails
I got a 2013 silverado 4.8. Only issue i have ever had was my transmission oil pan gaket started leaking. Was a good weekend project for me and my son. No AFM issues just a reliable truck that i will ride till the wheels fall off!
I love the front end design, ever since they first came out. It’s simple and modern
If I was looking for a truck, this would be it!