How to Install 10 x 10 Shade Sail
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- A low cost DIY home improvements which many might find useful. Total cost of this project is less than $200, the single most expensive e part being the ground contact 4x4's.
We might cut a small tree or two in our woods for our next shade sail - will post that project if it works out!
Love the dock cleat for cord management!
Thanks for the informative video. I will be installing a sun shade over part of my covered deck.After watching a few videos on this subject one guy suggested you cover the vertical post with plastic covering that are covered with cement. Reason for this is the concrete’s chemical reaction will eventually rot away the wood even thou it may be pressure treated. I had a few pressure treated posts along my fence line rot at the bottom and now I know why.
Awesome explanation! I love New England! Thanks for taking the time to video!
Love that dock cleat and pulley idea!! Thank you
Man finally I found what I think it’s a navy smart way to do that! So much easier to mount and dismount specially in Florida with hurricanes. It also looks awesome and sleek. The only thing I didn’t like is the pole angle backwards. That doesn’t look nice aesthetically. I believe that with a sturdy 6x6 pole the angle wouldn’t be needed. What do you think?
The pulley system and clear to hold it tight is a good idea to remove the inch’s of fixtures. Mine has to stand apart from the house due to the position of the structural points. With a three point shade I could clip in at two points and if they are tight, use a pulley on the third.
I kept my post straight and put the pulleys on the outside to get the angle couldn’t bare to see the pokes like that especially when I have the string lights on them.
Better:
Mount closer to the house. Thus, no gap under your gutter. Rain will come in your gap.
Concrete not cement. Cement is an ingredient of concrete.
Plumb not level. Vertical is plumb. Columns are plumbed using a “level”. Horizontal is level.
I have one love it but can't get the sag out the middle
And flaps in wind
removing sag likely a function of a couple things - 1) spread of the eye bolts on the house or structure 2) angle and spread of the attachment points at the far end - 3) ability (pulleys and cam cleats) to really pull hard on the sucker to stretch it out.
Half inch turnbuckles might further help increase your tension.
4X4 BEAMS BOWING? OR IS IT ENOUGH?
This is what I need to know. Don’t want to do 4x6 or 6x6 but if I have to, I’m order to avoid bowing, I might as well do it initially
How tall of post?
How did you get them to be the same degree?
If u are talking about the angle of the poles - you use any string with a weight on it to find exactly what level is and then you measure back from it.
An easy way is to set up something temporary - using poles or 2x4's and guy wires (tent stakes, etc.) to put the poles into position. You can fuss with the poles until they look and work properly and you will know where to dig the holes (1) and also how far back from level you want them to be. This can be measured by using a 2 or 4ft level and "X" distance back from level in that 2 or 4 ft span. Various sites mention how many degrees back you want the poles to be set at.
You can do a final check with the 4x4's or poles in the "dry holes" before you pour concrete into them.
In a case like mine, I might have wanted the top of the poles 1 foot back and 1 foot off to the side (wider) than the rings on the sail.
How’s the shade holding up?