How To Pour and Screed Concrete Using a Power Screed | Raking Concrete and best Slump to use.
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- #EverythingAboutConcrete #MikeDayConcrete #ScreeDemon
We're pouring a 1400 Square Foot Concrete floor for a house. The easiest part of pouring and screeding this floor was using MBW's ScreeDemon power screed. If you pour using a water reducer in your concrete, a 7 slump is a great slump to use these vibratory screeds.
I show you how to rake the concrete behind a power screed to make the screeding go fast, level, and flat for the operator.
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for the people that watch and say “i can do this in my sleep. having guys that see grade, understand elevation and with only a laser and no elevation guidestakes. its rare and exciting to see. great pour, bravo!
Thank you!
mike i mentioned u a couple of times in my new video and at the very end of the video too of how u r supposed to teach me how to viberscreed soon. anytime after feb is good 4 me, grumpy old concrete guy wants to come too!! thanks
We use it almost every day now. Let me know when you can come.
Great work boys! Happy Fathers Day to all you hard workin Dads out there!
Thanks! You too!
Great job guys 🎉 and Happy Father's day to all 🙏. Also let's give a hand of appreciation for those cement truck drivers ! Team work 💪 America at its best 👌
Well said, thank you!
That was impressive. That’s an mvp team with those dudes.
Great job as always Mike. Happy Father’s Day
Thanks! You too!
@Mike Day Concrete & Crew, Super nice job, I liked it #55 and so subscribed!!!
Awesome, thank you!
Absolutely brilliant work.
Great job! you make it look easy
When you’re using the power screed do you put it at a slight angle?
Very nice. You guys are good.👍
Thank you!
Hey Mike, is it possible to do a pour of one slab in two separate pours for the reason of having different heights so it could transition from vinyl plank to polish concrete so the finished level of both floors would be the same height with no transition strips. The slab would have rebar, tubing, insulation, and vapor barrier.. that's the part that makes it tough, I don't know how you'd form it.
Hey Mike when you pour an Alaskan slab do you use rough cut lumber or dimensional lumber.
We use regular lumber. Usually 2x12's
@@MikeDayConcrete Thank you for the reply much appreciated.
So in Germany. They stick their heat floor tube on top of their pour flour (dried). Then pour a 7 cm thin set on top. Reason, if something goes wrong they don't need to tear up their whole foundation to fix it. Have you thought about doing that instead of pour your floor on top of the tubing? There are other bonus by doing it on top of the foundation too.
We've been pouring over radiant for more than 30 years now. I've never heard of someone having an issue. Not saying there haven't been any but I have never heard back from anyone. We do about 100 a year like this.
Hi Mike can you tell me the exact mix you use on garage floors it looks really wet I don't like it too wet incase it weakings it I know you add stuff that rectifys that I'm in Ireland I don't think they use the same stuff I'd like to add it to make life easy thanks
This is the kind of product we use: fritzpak.com/products/water-reducers-superplasticizers/
Our concrete plant adds it for us but you can buy it and add it yourself.
Thanks Mike for the reply all the best jim
flawless
hey mike, i have been watching a while now. pouring a slab for my self next week to put a gazebo on. I hear you talk about water reducers. which is best, mid range or high range? my understanding was high was done on the job and mid is done at the plant, do i have that correct? i like it when it is a 7 slump range, so which is correct. appreciate you , thanks
Mike day concrete, what type of laser transit are using? I need to buy one if you got a link.
Happy Father's Day Mike day
Thank you!
@@MikeDayConcrete can you please be my friend please
What slump does this spec to after the water reducer wears off and how long before it turns?
Great question, I'd like to know as well
It would spec out to about a 3. It doesn't "turn" like the old stuff but you got about 20 to 30 minutes to work with it depending on how hot out the weather is and how far away the job is from the plant.
That separation of visible, well-defined coarse aggregate piling up while the water/cement and fines run away is called "segregation" and it's bad news. I know it'll stiffen up as the effect of the superplasticizer admixture is overcome by the hydration reaction, but the damage is done. You're going to have spots that cure to a 28 day strength of 5,000psi and some that cure to 750psi.
An u r the best u an ur crew
Mike this is tim from Ohio what is the smallest rock I can have in the concrete.
Smallest we use is 3/8"
Very nice
Thanks
How do you deal with entrapped air when you power trowel?
It's not an issue with us unless they put too much air in the concrete. It's usually around 5%, just don't steel trowel it too early. The only time we run into issues is when the sub-base is really cold and the concrete is warm. The top sets faster than the bottom. The surface gets closed up and sometimes we get blisters. They can be hard to deal with, we try to cut them open with the trowel then smooth them right back over with the hand trowel.
The key to that is a good mucker.
Why do you use such a small bull float on such large floors?
Do you ever use the power screed on a sloped surface like a driveway?
You could, we usually screed a slope by hand though.
Thanks Mike. You're the man! And belated happy Father's day
I'm not knocking your work. We all have one get away from us every once in a while. That mix was trash. There was obvious segregation occurring right out of the chute. That alone meets batch rejection criteria. But I also understand this is non-structural and it doesn't really matter that it's a garbage batch. It's just a spacer between the radiant heat and the tile that will be installed above it. It might be 5,000psi in spots and 500psi in others, but honestly, 100 will do just fine as long as they install the tile over Schluter so the cracking from nonuniform shrinkage doesn't transfer through to the tile. The reality is the ready mix company jas a heart attack when you reject a batch and they hold a grudge over it, even if you're right. So when they send a bad batch or add too much water on site or fail to mix it sufficiently for homogenization, you don't have much choice but to make lemonade out of those lemons - unless it's structural. Then it matters.
Never had one get away from me, and the mix was ok
That is some WET concete.
cold? Turn that heated floor on to aid curing 🤣
Pouring soup....
These guys are Hacks .you can see the water in the mix separate from the agraget way to much water. Probably only a 5 sack mix. This is not the proper way to place concrete. Concrete should be no weter than a 5 slump. 😢
Better do your homework and understand how water reducer work unless you're pouring state projects and you can't add anything
@@fritzpipkin792which is why state projects have actual licensed professional engineers on site and send core samples to the materials testing lab to get actual numbers instead of throwing tiger hair and superplasticizer and calcium chloride in to make snake oil and calling it good enough.