Hi Roger I have fitted the dc to dc victron with a victron 30 charger and the victron shunt when the engine is running I’m getting 30amps dc to dc is working fine with the two 100amp hr batteries however when I’m on EHU the Charger is not putting anything into the batteries as it’s going through the CBE ds520 consumer unit and I’m thinking it’s the split charger stopping the flow when are you going to make the next part of the split charger video please I need to disable mine many thanks Ray
A thoughtful discussion. I will push back on some points. 1. Eurospec alternators - this is a split charge issue, not a Li issue 2. voltage is not what you want - 4S LFP will charge to 100% at voltages as low as 13.6v. 14.0v at moderate currents will charge to 100% SoC with no absorption. See OffGrid Garages experiments with charging voltages v. absorption duration. 3. voltage up and down - again, split charge issue not Li issue. Also generally unimportant to the situation, IMO 4. no control over current - using the chassis for negative return introduces a ton of resistance, and I=V/R. 5. low RPM - can happen with any charger type 6. draws only 30A from the alternator - the 30A is *output* current, not input. Because DC-DC is typically boosting voltage the current demand on the alt can be >30A My 150Ah bank charges at ~35A through a relay at voltage/current appropriate for both components. At a price about 1/5th that of the Orion-TR. Also note that Battle Born doesn't recommend DC-DC (or even Li-BiM) until bank size is >300Ah, per FAQ video VY2b71zoyvg.
Hi. Its confusing. So is it still reccommended that you do not use a regular split charge relay on say 2010 transit with non smart alternator, and a 12v 100ah lithium ion battery? Or should I pay much more for a dc to dc victron like what he showed?
@@Jaybreens If it's confusing then I'd say pay up for DC-DC; they are relatively plug-and-play. DIY requires an understanding of what the battery needs and what the alternator can/will do.
@@offgrid_powerI found the video to be good and infotmative despite this weird dude in the comment section playing besserwisser. Literally just trying to say at least something about every point you made even the points that were good and correct. I guess some just like to hate... Great video! :D
@@alexpalsater7983 If you have any corrections to make on my comments I'd be happy to hear them and learn from you. How do *you* charge your lithium from alternator?
Thank you for the information
What is the system i need to use in place of my split charger unit for my lithium battery
Brilliant information as always so many great videos thanks keep them coming
Hi Roger I have fitted the dc to dc victron with a victron 30 charger and the victron shunt when the engine is running I’m getting 30amps dc to dc is working fine with the two 100amp hr batteries however when I’m on EHU the Charger is not putting anything into the batteries as it’s going through the CBE ds520 consumer unit and I’m thinking it’s the split charger stopping the flow when are you going to make the next part of the split charger video please I need to disable mine many thanks Ray
A thoughtful discussion. I will push back on some points.
1. Eurospec alternators - this is a split charge issue, not a Li issue
2. voltage is not what you want - 4S LFP will charge to 100% at voltages as low as 13.6v. 14.0v at moderate currents will charge to 100% SoC with no absorption. See OffGrid Garages experiments with charging voltages v. absorption duration.
3. voltage up and down - again, split charge issue not Li issue. Also generally unimportant to the situation, IMO
4. no control over current - using the chassis for negative return introduces a ton of resistance, and I=V/R.
5. low RPM - can happen with any charger type
6. draws only 30A from the alternator - the 30A is *output* current, not input. Because DC-DC is typically boosting voltage the current demand on the alt can be >30A
My 150Ah bank charges at ~35A through a relay at voltage/current appropriate for both components. At a price about 1/5th that of the Orion-TR. Also note that Battle Born doesn't recommend DC-DC (or even Li-BiM) until bank size is >300Ah, per FAQ video VY2b71zoyvg.
Some good points there. :)
Hi. Its confusing. So is it still reccommended that you do not use a regular split charge relay on say 2010 transit with non smart alternator, and a 12v 100ah lithium ion battery? Or should I pay much more for a dc to dc victron like what he showed?
@@Jaybreens If it's confusing then I'd say pay up for DC-DC; they are relatively plug-and-play. DIY requires an understanding of what the battery needs and what the alternator can/will do.
@@offgrid_powerI found the video to be good and infotmative despite this weird dude in the comment section playing besserwisser. Literally just trying to say at least something about every point you made even the points that were good and correct. I guess some just like to hate...
Great video! :D
@@alexpalsater7983 If you have any corrections to make on my comments I'd be happy to hear them and learn from you.
How do *you* charge your lithium from alternator?