Thanks Rob! I have a Jet bandsaw with a 13 1/2” cut capacity, and have never been able to get a usable veneer with it. I tried again, following your advice, and ripped a couple nice sheets off for the first time. I know I’ve said it before, but thanks for all you do for the community. You have, most definitely helped “take my woodworking to the next level.” I’ll never get to your level, but the better I get, the more fun I’m having. Funny how that works! Take care Rob!
Really handy advice. Simply and clearly presented. I use a band saw at my wood working club. It's a professional machine used by a bunch of amateurs so you can imagine who it cuts most of the time. If it isn't a brand new blade then it drifts like a raft in a whirlpool. I'll be using your advice next time.
Thanks Rob. Years ago I built a fancy resaw fence from a woodworking magazine. It work and has all kinds of adjustability but it gives me fits a lot of the time. Looks like all I need is a good straight edge. I wonder how a piece of angle aluminium would work. Not an expensive option at my local scrap yard. It would remain stable in my changing shop environment. Love your technique.
Once u find the angle the blade is cutting at loosen the table and adjust it to suit. Then you will have the tables mitre slots and the fence matching. Saves finding your blades cutting angle and clamping wood on the table.
Thanks for video. I’ve been going crazy over the drift. I use a Laguna 1412 and generally love it but I’ve been getting drift of 1/100 to 3/100 over 12” length and trying to correct for that. Now I think it’s just my OCD. Maybe some drift is normal
What about using a sled so that the wood is not pushing against the fence as the tension releases. If you start this way with a new blade then both edges of the teeth stay the same wrt to sharpness and therefore cut straight. Do you believe this approach?
Thank you. This is a really handy video. Do yo think that if you aligned the the stock fence to the block of wood it would stay true and avoid drift? I have always found my stock fence problematic for this same reason.
I have heard that the only way to stop band saw drift is not to use a fence at all. If the blade is cutting to the left side for some reason , it will push it into the fence and it starts to begain to bind the blade and thus it starts to drift to the left and pinches it with the fence. I know you said to position the fence paralle to the cut, if the blade is still cutting on the left side it will still drift to the left. your blade must cut evenly on both sides Except for this method i have been woodworking a long time this is the only method I have found to stop it from drifting. I will try your method one more time! and hope it works.
Have you any experience using Michael Fortune's technique of setting up the table to the drift? I used his method and squared up my table, now my mitre gauge works with the blades. I have tried all 3 of my blades and they use the same setting with equally good results. I have used the method you describe in the video, which does work great, but with the table set up, there is no need to redo your fence set up every time.
I've seen that Michael Fortune video and admired his approach. Been shopping for a bandsaw online, but I want to ensure that lateral table adjustment capability is available on whichever saw I end up buying.
Rob Enjoy your videos. Does the drift always stay the same (using the same blade, tension). If so couldn't you just adjust the actual bandsaw fence and be done with it?
@@mitschkoff Yes I understand this but if the permanent fence is correctly aligned with the blade I don't understand why Rob's temporary fence would be any better.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Understood Rob, thanks. I guess that would apply mostly with the narrower blades. As I don't have a table saw I use my bandsaw mainly for resawing and long rips with wide blades
Do you need to sacrifice part of the thickness of the board that you want to slice? Can you use another board that may not have identical grain direction relative board thickness? Can you use a pine 2x4 to establish drift before cutting 8" wide (8" tall on bandsaw) hardwood?
Usually have a 1/4” 3tpi blade in for general purpose because you can take tighter turns. But I wouldn’t be cutting into any thick hardwoods with that blade! 3/8” is a good compromise and I’ve had that size every now and again
Does this drift vary based on the hardness of the wood or height of the work piece or can you set-and-forget it and cut many pieces of differing heights and species? Hope you're feeling better!
If you adjust the table so the miter slot is parallel to the blade you will eliminate drift and you will be able to use jigs in the miter slot and know the angles are correct.
So you have a thin slice, with one jointed side, and one sawn side. What's next for the sawn side? Plane? Or the jointer? Or leave it as sawn so that the glue has a rough surface to bind to?
Rob, I have trouble keeping an even thickness to top to bottom just resawing. Forget about slicing for veneers. What do you think the problem is? I am using a 3/4 inch woodslicer blade. Used the Alex Snodgrass method for setting up my Grizzly bandsaw. I cannot seem to get an even thickness top to bottom on stuff over say...6 inches tall. Is this a blade tightness issue? Thanks.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking is there any good way to determine if you have the correct blade tension? Any kind of trick you use? Alex says to push on the blade at a certain location blah blah blah but that is so subjective.
Forgive me if this is a dumb question (I just purchased and set up my first bandsaw 3 days ago - Rikon 10-326). Does this technique work for any resawing thickness? In other words, does this work if I want to resaw a 1" thick board down the middle? I just tried this a couple hours ago using the fence on my saw on a piece of 9" X 12" red oak. It came out pretty good, but definitely not perfect.
If the band saw table is properly aligned, you don't need to do all of this. And that it relies on sawing to a line, then aligning an auxiliary fence by holding the board in the correct position? Just align the table correctly and put the blade in the correct position on the upper wheel.
Oh dear. Some people never seem to pay attention or learn from their forbears. Look at any serious commercial saw thats optimised for resawing and you notice the fence rarely goes past the back of the blade, be it bandsaw or circular. This allows the wood to spring without binding against the blade. It allows you to put a wedge in the parted rip if you need to. It also stops sawdust getting trapped in the kerf and overheating/choking the blade. Clamping a block to the table to make a fence is clumsy and potentially dangerous if the clamps slip or pop loose. When blades choke on saw dust they burn, drift and even break. Dont use this method. Its just plain bad practice.
Another day with nothing to do Joe? I have a lot of videos, should keep you busy and out of trouble for awhile! Still looking for that channel you old curmudgeon!
@RobCosmanWoodworking It only takes a few minutes at the end of the day to sit down with a cup of tea on the sofa and amuse myself checking out one of your videos Rob. After all I've earned it. I've just replaced the switch in my straight knife grinder. Expensive little buggers. But don't worry about my down time to much. Ive got three casement dormer windows to install this coming week. I'll send you some pics when the house is finished. Cheers.
I just use the right blade and tension the hell out of it. That blade has too many teeth per inch. Way too many. I'd put a1 inch, 2 TPI, carbide, Lennox woodmaster on that saw. It's big enough to handle it.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Aside: I bought your book on DT.s Thanks for that. I've never seen my saw drift. Online discussions (that I've seen) on it seem to revolve around (1) tiny saws that can't develop sufficient tension, (2) worn-out blades and (3) blades with insufficient gullet to clear the chips. Your saw looks plenty sturdy. I bet you don't have drift either.
not cool- you want the slots in the table to be really parallel to actual cut direction. much better to move entire table than to cheat it by adjusting the fence angle relative to the table slots. $0.02
Waste of time … a properly aligned bandsaw DOES NOT DRIFT. Watch the video by Alex Snodgrass on the topic. My 14” Delta with a 1/2” Woodslicer blade does better than that.
Check out Rob's "Woodworking Machines" playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLqUOljnY0d9cLQZ7igp6k1OT4SnAAB2qD.html
Thanks Rob! I have a Jet bandsaw with a 13 1/2” cut capacity, and have never been able to get a usable veneer with it. I tried again, following your advice, and ripped a couple nice sheets off for the first time. I know I’ve said it before, but thanks for all you do for the community. You have, most definitely helped “take my woodworking to the next level.” I’ll never get to your level, but the better I get, the more fun I’m having. Funny how that works! Take care Rob!
See Michael Fortune's band saw videos, he adjusts the saw so you can use the saw fence with no drift. Worked perfectly on my bandsaw.
Really handy advice. Simply and clearly presented. I use a band saw at my wood working club. It's a professional machine used by a bunch of amateurs so you can imagine who it cuts most of the time. If it isn't a brand new blade then it drifts like a raft in a whirlpool. I'll be using your advice next time.
Very helpful and informative, thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks Rob. Solved my bandsaw drift.
Perfect! Now I just need to buy a bandsaw so I can give this a go. 🙂
Hahaha. You just made my day. Thank you.
@@rickholmwood2000 youre easily pleased
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 your implication is what?
Exactly the tip I needed today!
Thanks a lot for the effort and explanation.
Very helpful video, (as always). Thanks Rob
Thanks for watching
I can't believe how far my fence and blade were out of alignment. Thank you so much.
Thanks Rob. Years ago I built a fancy resaw fence from a woodworking magazine. It work and has all kinds of adjustability but it gives me fits a lot of the time. Looks like all I need is a good straight edge. I wonder how a piece of angle aluminium would work. Not an expensive option at my local scrap yard. It would remain stable in my changing shop environment. Love your technique.
Great video! It’s nice to see you give some tips for using power tools more accurately.
Wow. Great tip Rob. Thanks 👍
Nice tip Rob. My bandsaw at times has a mind of its own and cuts all over the place but not what I want.
Thanks Rob, just what i needed.
Using the fence and accounting for blade drift is a good idea. Great video thank you for sharing!👍🏻
Thanks for watching and commenting
I suggest aligning the table (and miter slot, and fence) to the blade. This would correct the cause.
Night Stalkers never quit.
Great video Brother
Thank you 👍👍
Great! I have been wondering about that.
Excellent tip! Problem solved!
Thanks. Any thoughts on doing a bandsaw blade sharpening video?
Once u find the angle the blade is cutting at loosen the table and adjust it to suit. Then you will have the tables mitre slots and the fence matching. Saves finding your blades cutting angle and clamping wood on the table.
Thanks for video. I’ve been going crazy over the drift. I use a Laguna 1412 and generally love it but I’ve been getting drift of 1/100 to 3/100 over 12” length and trying to correct for that. Now I think it’s just my OCD. Maybe some drift is normal
I'm catching your drift, tks
Great idea.
Thanks
What about using a sled so that the wood is not pushing against the fence as the tension releases. If you start this way with a new blade then both edges of the teeth stay the same wrt to sharpness and therefore cut straight. Do you believe this approach?
What blade are you using Rob?
Thank you. This is a really handy video. Do yo think that if you aligned the the stock fence to the block of wood it would stay true and avoid drift? I have always found my stock fence problematic for this same reason.
I have heard that the only way to stop band saw drift is not to use a fence at all. If the blade is cutting to the left side for some reason , it will push it into the fence and it starts to begain to bind the blade and thus it starts to drift to the left and pinches it with the fence. I know you said to position the fence paralle to the cut, if the blade is still cutting on the left side it will still drift to the left. your blade must cut evenly on both sides Except for this method i have been woodworking a long time this is the only method I have found to stop it from drifting. I will try your method one more time! and hope it works.
Wish I'd found this video before I wasted time on six others! Thanks, this is the best method I've seen so far!!
Have you any experience using Michael Fortune's technique of setting up the table to the drift? I used his method and squared up my table, now my mitre gauge works with the blades. I have tried all 3 of my blades and they use the same setting with equally good results. I have used the method you describe in the video, which does work great, but with the table set up, there is no need to redo your fence set up every time.
I've seen that Michael Fortune video and admired his approach. Been shopping for a bandsaw online, but I want to ensure that lateral table adjustment capability is available on whichever saw I end up buying.
@@kennnva551 I think most"new"bandsaw have this. I think it is called a trunnion mount?
Rob
Enjoy your videos. Does the drift always stay the same (using the same blade, tension). If so couldn't you just adjust the actual bandsaw fence and be done with it?
does a too-tight blade affect the cut, or just cause extra stress on band and bearings?
Nice!
Hi Rob, wouldn't this work just as well if the fence had been set up parallel to the blade in the first place? Mike
The blade twists and turns while cutting, that's why he did those first few inches by hand to determine the angle.
@@mitschkoff Yes I understand this but if the permanent fence is correctly aligned with the blade I don't understand why Rob's temporary fence would be any better.
2:57
As you use the blade particularly on cutting curves, the set wears unevenly. Now it may no longer cut parallel to the fence.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Understood Rob, thanks. I guess that would apply mostly with the narrower blades. As I don't have a table saw I use my bandsaw mainly for resawing and long rips with wide blades
Do you need to sacrifice part of the thickness of the board that you want to slice? Can you use another board that may not have identical grain direction relative board thickness? Can you use a pine 2x4 to establish drift before cutting 8" wide (8" tall on bandsaw) hardwood?
I understand what you are saying but I have a question. Why do manufacturers put a tall fence on a band saw if you can't use it?
Pop Walker
What would you consider a good size and tpi for all-purpose bandsaw blade?
Usually have a 1/4” 3tpi blade in for general purpose because you can take tighter turns. But I wouldn’t be cutting into any thick hardwoods with that blade! 3/8” is a good compromise and I’ve had that size every now and again
Does this drift vary based on the hardness of the wood or height of the work piece or can you set-and-forget it and cut many pieces of differing heights and species?
Hope you're feeling better!
If you adjust the table so the miter slot is parallel to the blade you will eliminate drift and you will be able to use jigs in the miter slot and know the angles are correct.
My blade twists to the right as soon as wood touches it. How do I fix that. Is that the same as drift?
So you have a thin slice, with one jointed side, and one sawn side. What's next for the sawn side? Plane? Or the jointer? Or leave it as sawn so that the glue has a rough surface to bind to?
I plane it, lay down a piece of sticky backed sand paper to hold the veneer in place while I plane the rough side.
Rob, I have trouble keeping an even thickness to top to bottom just resawing. Forget about slicing for veneers. What do you think the problem is? I am using a 3/4 inch woodslicer blade. Used the Alex Snodgrass method for setting up my Grizzly bandsaw. I cannot seem to get an even thickness top to bottom on stuff over say...6 inches tall. Is this a blade tightness issue? Thanks.
Yes tightness would be my first guess
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thank you.
Could it also be the table isn’t 90 degrees to the blade?
@@TWC6724 as I mentioned, I did follow the Snodgrass method for setting up the saw, the table is square to the blade.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking is there any good way to determine if you have the correct blade tension? Any kind of trick you use? Alex says to push on the blade at a certain location blah blah blah but that is so subjective.
Grazie!!🔝👌🤗
Thank you for watching and commenting
Good tip.
However, the thickness discrepancy is 20 "thou" - about 0.5 mm. It's about 25 percent of the thickness of the panel!
Forgive me if this is a dumb question (I just purchased and set up my first bandsaw 3 days ago - Rikon 10-326). Does this technique work for any resawing thickness? In other words, does this work if I want to resaw a 1" thick board down the middle? I just tried this a couple hours ago using the fence on my saw on a piece of 9" X 12" red oak. It came out pretty good, but definitely not perfect.
If the band saw table is properly aligned, you don't need to do all of this. And that it relies on sawing to a line, then aligning an auxiliary fence by holding the board in the correct position? Just align the table correctly and put the blade in the correct position on the upper wheel.
Are you a trumper?
Just adjust your bandsaw correctly. This technique is fine once and a while but not practical for everyday use.
Hi.
What happened to your voice?
Thanks for these tips.
Why not just adjust the alignment so the blade is riding properly on the crown on the wheel....
ripping??????? NO! this is resawing NOT ripping. thanks for the info!
Dads got a cold
Oh dear. Some people never seem to pay attention or learn from their forbears. Look at any serious commercial saw thats optimised for resawing and you notice the fence rarely goes past the back of the blade, be it bandsaw or circular. This allows the wood to spring without binding against the blade. It allows you to put a wedge in the parted rip if you need to. It also stops sawdust getting trapped in the kerf and overheating/choking the blade. Clamping a block to the table to make a fence is clumsy and potentially dangerous if the clamps slip or pop loose.
When blades choke on saw dust they burn, drift and even break.
Dont use this method. Its just plain bad practice.
Another day with nothing to do Joe? I have a lot of videos, should keep you busy and out of trouble for awhile! Still looking for that channel you old curmudgeon!
@RobCosmanWoodworking
It only takes a few minutes at the end of the day to sit down with a cup of tea on the sofa and amuse myself checking out one of your videos Rob. After all I've earned it.
I've just replaced the switch in my straight knife grinder. Expensive little buggers.
But don't worry about my down time to much. Ive got three casement dormer windows to install this coming week.
I'll send you some pics when the house is finished. Cheers.
I just use the right blade and tension the hell out of it. That blade has too many teeth per inch. Way too many. I'd put a1 inch, 2 TPI, carbide, Lennox woodmaster on that saw. It's big enough to handle it.
It’s a 3tpi skip tooth, for the amount of re-saving that I do it has just the right amount to make it useful in other applications
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Aside: I bought your book on DT.s Thanks for that.
I've never seen my saw drift. Online discussions (that I've seen) on it seem to revolve around (1) tiny saws that can't develop sufficient tension, (2) worn-out blades and (3) blades with insufficient gullet to clear the chips. Your saw looks plenty sturdy. I bet you don't have drift either.
not cool- you want the slots in the table to be really parallel to actual cut direction. much better to move entire table than to cheat it by adjusting the fence angle relative to the table slots. $0.02
Do I see a TRUMP flag? Awesome!! MAGA in Canada
Whiskey Tango Foxtrot ??? The title is "How to Adjust for Bandsaw Drift." The video explains nothing about that.
It is no such thing as bandsaw drift. You fail to set your bandsaw right !
Roger that, professor.
Waste of time … a properly aligned bandsaw DOES NOT DRIFT. Watch the video by Alex Snodgrass on the topic. My 14” Delta with a 1/2” Woodslicer blade does better than that.
Ok professor.
Why are you guys propagating bandsaw drift. IT DOES NOT EXIST. please learn how to set up your blade and the drift will disappear
Love the mullet
вы похожи на женщину)
Nice !