My Dad left me his 1982 KZ650 CSR when he passed away. It only has 6k miles on it and its in good shape, but still needed a carb cleaning. Your videos have helped me so much.
Spot on and very informative. Did a tear down of my carbs and followed this video step by step and was much more helpful than even the factory service manual from Kawasaki. Thanks for the great video!
In the USA the #92.5 main jets are stock. #102.5 are for Canadian models (and probably Europe. ???). The USA carburetors are jetted/tuned lean for EPA regulations. A HF metric nitrile o-ring kit has several sizes that fit fine. Using wire to ream out the jets can cause scratching of the brass parts.
In theory the accelerator pump should make up for the lean jetting on a totally stock bike. You could either disable the accelerator pump and jet up accordingly, or even swap to a non-pumper set of carbs from an older model bike along with the correct air box.
I’m new to the motorcycle world and I’m working on cleaning my carbs. I heard from other places that there is a specific amount of turns to lock in the pilot jet. Is that true for the KZ650? Or is it ok to just loosenly tighten it?
You didn't show where you started how you btoke the carbs down. An how to get that first jet out.. feels like i missed a quarter of a video. Without a doubt very informative. Just wish it was organized a bit better.
The main jet comes out literally 20 seconds into the video, and the pilot jet at 2:58. I didn't show separating the carbs, because it seems pretty intuitive.
Muddy Fences Absolutely right, i had just seen it dissasembled an wasnt sure where to start at first just looked a little different. Again i wanna day thank you for taking your time out of your day to show us how its done. 👍👍
Anddddd here I am, back to your video. Let's just say I've worked on many carbs but nothing has been more confusing and frustrating then these shitty mikuni carbs. First things first i have a 1983 kz650 CSR. I just bought kz650 carbs from 78-81 or what ever the fuck that year stretch behind mine is. All i need to know is will they work on my bike? An what is the difference between the CSR an the standard KZ?!? Have heard BILLIONS of different shit. Are the carbs different sizes?!?! At the point where ill take this bike out back an get more satisfaction out of destroying it then anything else. An just keeping the $700 carbs since theyre worth more then the bike.
Wow! This is great. Recently purchased this exact bike and plan to rebuild carbs. May I ask where you would recommend getting the carb rebuild kit for this bike?
I didn't buy a rebuild kit, but I did replace the float bowl gaskets (from eBay) and I got new pilot jets from a local motorcycle shop. The jets were only replaced because I went to a pod filter set up and it affects the air fuel mixture.
The original jets are probably functional, the only reason to change them would be to correct the air fuel mixture due to using the pod filters. I went 2 sizes larger on the pilot jets and the main jets were left alone. I run my bike at about 4300 feet above sea level. It's hard to say whether you will need to change jets, and by how much. Bad news is you may need to put everything back together and see how it runs, then make adjustments.
@@muddyfences5559 i know, i meant the hole on the bottom, placed near the engine side of the carb and that is still visible after the carb is fully assembled.
Muddy Fences oh I got ya lol I'm getting ready to redo my kz650h carbs and what is a good place to cheap good parts? Some parts are kinda hard to find for this bike.
Hey Royce. On the 1980 and later models, the balance / sync of the carbs is set and should not need adjustment, even after dissassembly. Older models may require you to synchronize them.
Muddy Fences thanks for the info on this. And just to clear up synchronizing is the height of the plungers and balancing is the vacuum being adjusted properly or I mean the carburetors being adjusted properly so all are within a set amount per factory specs correct?
Royce Ardery Syncronizing the carbs refers to having all 4 throttle valves set at the same relative position to each other. We may be talking about the same part (37 in the diagram at the beginning.
My Dad left me his 1982 KZ650 CSR when he passed away. It only has 6k miles on it and its in good shape, but still needed a carb cleaning. Your videos have helped me so much.
@@psychosolver Cherish that bike. I'm glad the video helped.
Spot on and very informative. Did a tear down of my carbs and followed this video step by step and was much more helpful than even the factory service manual from Kawasaki. Thanks for the great video!
Thanks for the feedback. I am glad it was helpful.
Right on! Well shown and it will help so many people in the future. Thank you.
Thanks Kevin. I appreciate the feedback.
Thank you this is super helpful. Just won an 83 CSR650 and it needs the carbs rebuilt!
Congratulations Luke. They are fun vintage bikes.
In the USA the #92.5 main jets are stock. #102.5 are for Canadian models (and probably Europe. ???). The USA carburetors are jetted/tuned lean for EPA regulations. A HF metric nitrile o-ring kit has several sizes that fit fine. Using wire to ream out the jets can cause scratching of the brass parts.
Jo Kel That's good information, thanks for sharing. I ended up going 2 steps larger on the pilot jets, and the bike runs good. Take care.
Any reason not to jet up an American model?
In theory the accelerator pump should make up for the lean jetting on a totally stock bike. You could either disable the accelerator pump and jet up accordingly, or even swap to a non-pumper set of carbs from an older model bike along with the correct air box.
What carbs are these? Can’t find the make or model??
I’m new to the motorcycle world and I’m working on cleaning my carbs. I heard from other places that there is a specific amount of turns to lock in the pilot jet. Is that true for the KZ650? Or is it ok to just loosenly tighten it?
I'm not certain what you are referring to, but the pilot jet needs to be seated snugly in the carburetor body. It doesn't have any adjustment setting.
@@muddyfences5559 ok good to know!! Thank you!
SUPER GREAT INFO...!!
Thank you Robert. I'm glad it was helpful.
Thanks for the vid. Whats up with the accelerator pump?
You didn't show where you started how you btoke the carbs down. An how to get that first jet out.. feels like i missed a quarter of a video. Without a doubt very informative. Just wish it was organized a bit better.
The main jet comes out literally 20 seconds into the video, and the pilot jet at 2:58. I didn't show separating the carbs, because it seems pretty intuitive.
Muddy Fences Absolutely right, i had just seen it dissasembled an wasnt sure where to start at first just looked a little different. Again i wanna day thank you for taking your time out of your day to show us how its done. 👍👍
Thanks man. I appreciate the feedback.
Anddddd here I am, back to your video. Let's just say I've worked on many carbs but nothing has been more confusing and frustrating then these shitty mikuni carbs. First things first i have a 1983 kz650 CSR. I just bought kz650 carbs from 78-81 or what ever the fuck that year stretch behind mine is. All i need to know is will they work on my bike? An what is the difference between the CSR an the standard KZ?!? Have heard BILLIONS of different shit. Are the carbs different sizes?!?! At the point where ill take this bike out back an get more satisfaction out of destroying it then anything else. An just keeping the $700 carbs since theyre worth more then the bike.
@@brandons9536 Update? Just won the same bike on auction and have to rebuild the carb, what was your experience?
Wow! This is great. Recently purchased this exact bike and plan to rebuild carbs. May I ask where you would recommend getting the carb rebuild kit for this bike?
I didn't buy a rebuild kit, but I did replace the float bowl gaskets (from eBay) and I got new pilot jets from a local motorcycle shop. The jets were only replaced because I went to a pod filter set up and it affects the air fuel mixture.
ahh i see. yeah I have the pod filters also. Would you recommend specific jets because the pods? Or just new ones?
The original jets are probably functional, the only reason to change them would be to correct the air fuel mixture due to using the pod filters. I went 2 sizes larger on the pilot jets and the main jets were left alone. I run my bike at about 4300 feet above sea level. It's hard to say whether you will need to change jets, and by how much. Bad news is you may need to put everything back together and see how it runs, then make adjustments.
hey, do you have this manual ? or pieces manual ?
I do have a repair manual for this bike. It's money well spent if you ask me.
Is there any jet inside the hole in the bottom of the carb?
There are actually two per carburetor. A main jet and a pilot jet.
@@muddyfences5559 i know, i meant the hole on the bottom, placed near the engine side of the carb and that is still visible after the carb is fully assembled.
No, there shouldn't be any additional jets.
Nice vid wish you could have uploaded in HD hard to see some of the smaller detail
Royce Ardery Thanks Royce. My old camera was pretty primitive, haha. If you have a specific question, feel free to ask.
Muddy Fences oh I got ya lol I'm getting ready to redo my kz650h carbs and what is a good place to cheap good parts? Some parts are kinda hard to find for this bike.
Royce Ardery I have a motorcycle salvage yard near me. It can be hit or miss though.
How can a separate the carbs without screwing up the balance of them? thanks
Hey Royce. On the 1980 and later models, the balance / sync of the carbs is set and should not need adjustment, even after dissassembly. Older models may require you to synchronize them.
Muddy Fences thanks for the info on this. And just to clear up synchronizing is the height of the plungers and balancing is the vacuum being adjusted properly or I mean the carburetors being adjusted properly so all are within a set amount per factory specs correct?
Royce Ardery Syncronizing the carbs refers to having all 4 throttle valves set at the same relative position to each other. We may be talking about the same part (37 in the diagram at the beginning.
Think you