I feel like whoever designs these power supplies is a real enthusiast. They consistently improve their product and provide a great product at a very good price. Hopefully they add logging to the software.
3:10 You can easily put a fan cut off switch on the rear of the case... or even a thermo-mechanical N.O. sensor to start the fan if the internals get too warm.
Super good review! Thanks Andreas Spiess. I was vacillating on BUYING OR NOT this unit. But after viewing your review, my mind is FULLY SET. I AM BUYING...thanks. I hope you continue making this INTELLIGENT AND WITHOUT NASTY COMMENTS about new devices churned out by Chinese designers. Yeah! Many disparage them.... but the devices these designers spin out are ACTUALLY FIRING UP THE IDEAS THAT ENABLE DIYers TO DO WHAT THEY DO. Thanks again Andreas..
Actually, The company who made DPS5005 also sell a very nice enclosure that comes with it. Have all the cutouts and mounting post. The 4mm post included is also one of the best I'v seen. (I think it's the same one the eevblog have)
Thanks. I've seen other videos using this type of supply but nobody measured the ripple. Good to know this so you can decide if you need to go for a linear design instead.
Thorough analysis as usual. Great video - and you even remembered to add a nice picture of your scope with the noise on it! Thank you. Looking at the space inside the box, maybe a ferrite wound into the lead to the banana socket with a cap across the pins would improve it and possibly the startup spike mentioned below.
Thank you so much. I have a similar power supply design with the large power source separate from the head unit. What I learned from this video was there are versions of the DSO head units with USB, Bluetooth support, and Windows remote control software. It would be cool it the software could capture the data for later analysis. Keep Broadcasting!!
I have the DPS5015 with the same case and quickly got tired of the noisy rear fan. However, I found that the fan on the main board is temperature controlled and is also 5v so i connected the rear fan to the same terminals as the main board fan. Now the rear fan only comes on when the main board heats up, problem solved! :) It doesn't look like the 5005 has the same setup, but it should work on the 5020.
Thanks for this video, I set the power source at 53.2V to set my DPS5015 to 48V max, I think this is the top necesary to gain a equilibrium in performance vs security
Bit of pulse rip on the power supply Andreas. I remember having to fix a precision power supply by placing some capacitor between the earth rail and the power supply rail. Did the trick so I could calibrate the supply. By the way found out some nice ideas for my wind turbine, which I must get back too. Plus lots of lead this weekend. Keep it up will make one of your circuit holds. Anywsy have a wonderful day from Australia.
Some of the fan manufacturers (the one I worked for) used to make fans with speed control option i.e. Thermistor on the fan hub that internally controls speed by Pwm based on temp(one chip does it all) For it to work the fan needs to pull air out of the case for obvious reasons.. Adda fans are option 4. Not sure about others.Simple small control unit is also an option. Like you I can't stand noisy fans. Any questions are welcome
not everybody has a 48V power supply at hand, but many of us have tons of obsolete notebook power supplies usually providing 19V@3A. Just use two of them to feed the DPS5005!
i checked that heatsink on mosfets are quite easy to chance on this spesific model. it might be nice to make a thermal path to the aluminum case which would reduce the strain on heating bits.unfotrunetly its not easy to do but RD tech might sell extra heatsink just to reduce the need for fan. and thanks for your great work
I can only add my agreement with Andreas. I have four of these in operation and they all work just fine. Compared to most important electronics, this is almost too good to be true.
Hi Andreas, thanks for another interesting video! Can you please elaborate on your comment about the availability of open source software for the DPS5005? You question whether the open source version is necessary, because it can be controlled with the PC software. When you say PC software, I guess you mean Windows software - but some of ud don't use Windows, and thus welcome open source software that could be ported to our system (Mac, Linux, *BSD, etc). Also, you mention you miss various features, such as data export and timestamps. The open source community is sometimes better at maintaining and enhancing software for specific hardware, than the hardware supplier is. So I personally consider available open source software as a very important feature. Have I completely misunderstood that comment of yours? Kind regards
As I understand this software was made in LabView. Seems to be that it available for Linux also. I know labview a little, may be it easy to solve some bugs in software, I think I can try
Martin Bøgelund github.com/kanflo/opendps Have a look there. It is a replacement for the firmware and Python controlling scripts. Maybe that solves your needs. And thank you, Andreas, once again for an innteresting video! Cheers, Michael.
Rd Tech, nice to see the developer responding on this channel as well! do you know Sigrok and would you consider to add support for it? it seems that this would give you cross-platform capabilities immediately, including interoperability with other lab bench devices.
+ Евгений Поправка: That would be awesome! + Martin: I meant, the software on the device itself. The protocol is open, so no need to change the device part. As Bas mentioned, maybe somebody writes a Sigrok driver for this protocol.
I connected the switch differently so it switches off the fan (since I mostly use it with low loads)... As you say the power input anyway needs an 230v mains switch and the dps itself has an output on/off... So the switch is better used this way :)
Excellent. I've been keeping an eye on these cheap PSU modules, as I've never had a bench PSU, and was waiting for a good review / recommendation like this. ;) I've seen the same (or similar) module on Julian's channel. These are cheap enough two buy two or three, for multiple rail outputs. Maybe a tiny bit noisy for some audio stuff, but perfect for testing. Loving the software for it. Very useful for tons of projects, especially when combined with more control and Logic Analyer gear. A quick heads-up btw - there's a typo in "Communication" in the title. ;)
For the software I would just do my own python script that reads a csv for set values and output another csv for the measured values. I would then just run gnuplot with pause 0.5 and reread to plot the data from the output csv
I've had my 3A 30v regulated linear PSU since 1985 and it is as good as the day I bought it, despite being used in a business and lugged around here there and everywhere. The amazing thing is it was dirt cheap at the time, but built really sturdily in a steel case and relays to select the voltage winding on the transformer automatically. Will these modern cheap ones last as long? The only niggle I have with it though is it has only one digital readout switchable between volts and amps. I strongly advise when buying one to have both.
Thanks for the contribution! I have the older DP30V5A as a mobile unit when a power supply is needed anywhere in the house. The user Interface is a bit fiddly. In generalI found that the nois of the DC/DC converters interferes some Kind of devices. The small radar Motion sensors you presented some months ago do not work properly with small DC/DC converters.
Thanks for your Reply, friend. Nothing is broken. As you also con read here tech.scargill.net/microwave-for-the-weekend/#comments These Radar sensors are insane sensitive to ripples on the power supply. So, experimenting with these sensors and supplying wit my DP30V5A I got the Impression that the sesnors being defective. But they are not. Driven by a linear PS they work. Ir might be similar when driving audio preamps.
Please, feel free to believe in wonders as a private citizen. But as an engineer you are not allowed to calculate on them. Otherwise they would not be wonders. This ist the tragedy of our period: Nearly nobody still believes in wonders. But if you look into project schedules or business plans they seem to be full of wonders (but not wunderful). In that special case of course I tested 1000uF elco and 10uF cerco without success. Reading Pete Scargill's blog you will find solutions with pi filters etc. For me it was much easier and faster to use a LDO and 2 cercos. This really works.
sehr schön und informativ! gut das die bienen bald in den winter gehen und ich mir dann solch ein netzteil bauen werde - der pc-anschluss war der "fehlende" punkt bei dieser modul-serie .... happy hacking. ps.: ein sehr kleiner tip - die kabeldurchführung für die kabel zum pc wird sicherlich noch mit einem kabelschutz versehen ;-) ;-.)
I think the warning was telling you to keep the power supply free to breathe and to not smother it as it will burn itself up since it has no temperature monitoring.
On the pcb for supply the fan, I put a 4.3 kohm resistor in paralelle on the 3.0 k at the FB input of the xl7005A. The voltage is now 3.5 V and the fan make no noise. Ok, the air flux is not important, but it's OK for me . Bye
Have you checked if the DPS5005 has a nasty spike when you turn on the output like a lot of switching power supplies? Thanks for all the great videos. I mainly use Teensy but the ESP32 is looking good now that the Arduino support is getting mature.
Well, don't expect the Chinese will improve the software, if someone feel useful and willing to reverse engineered a new one with all the feature you want, that's great. And welcome to this kind of review or review and teaching how to use, I'm not totally dumb but not smart enough to find out all the features.
Great video as always! I wonder what your thoughts are on the comparison of this DPS series of supply with the DPH series by the same manufacturer which are so-called "boost-buck" where the supply voltage can be above or below that of the load. I'm looking at building a small bench power supply and can't decide between this DPS5005 and the DPH3205. Obviously the big advantage of the DPH is that I can supply it with 12v instead of 50v and still get 32v out, but I wonder if I am missing some disadvantage (apart from the 32v limit) that as an inexperienced amateur I haven't thought of. I would very much welcome your thoughts.
Gavin Smalley Good question. ;) Hopefully Andreas will review a DPH soon, and test it for noise etc. I'm wondering if it's a true buck-boost too, or just have a boost reg preceding the normal buck circuit? I have a spare 24V 10A "Mean Well" clone PSU to use, and I guess I'm not likely to need an output above 12-15V anyway, so I'll probably grab two or three DPS modules soon.
There are many different power supplies, but only this one with the communication and the software. This is, why I presented it. I do not think, I will test power supplies in General because there are many videos around. If you need a Buck or a buck-boost supply depends on your needs. I prefer to have a high input voltage and only use a buck converter. But if you have limitations on the input voltage, a buck-boost device is handy.
Gavin, If I understand it correctly, the DPH3205 has twice the ripple and is less efficient (waste more energy). I have the DPS3005, 5015, 5020 (com version) and also the DPH3205. Nice modules and good bang for the buck. But they are not perfect. A bit slow going from one voltage to another. Not super fast in voltage regulation with a PWM load. The output capacitor stores some energy that the CC mode might not catch if you attach a DUT with power enabled. But still, I like 'em and will keep buying new models as they come :-) So, for a stationary supply, go for DPS. For a field PSU with perhaps a battery from a power tool as source, go for the DPH.
Andreas: Thanks for the video. In my experimentation with the DPS5005 units, the noise and ripple characteristics vary a great deal depending on the output voltage (less so on the output current). In particular, it seems to be much more noisy near 0 volts, and near V_in. I have tried the measurements using various power supplies, including both DC-DC, regulated, and unregulated. The ideal input power supply, I suppose, would be a 48V battery bank. Can you make these measurements and report back? By the way, you can safely go slightly above the maximum input voltage of 55V (in the case of an unregulated supply, one may want to start higher near 56 or 57V so that, when it drops down, it always stays 1.5V above 50V so you can get 50.0V output.)
Thank you Andreas for your videos! You are a great community leader! I just assembled the DSP5020 with the USB ... I added fuses on both input+output that I can reset with resettable fuse... I'm sure everyone does at least one fuse - the manufacture should protect the DPS's with diodes+fuses - I'm emailing them in few minutes about it. Has anyone found a way to export the data to Excel using the existing software? Thank you guys!
I know, but I'm very anal so I wanted a resettable fuse and I used a lower value, just in case, to protect it from my "mistakes"! But thanks for letting me and other know. The fuses are soldered onto the PCB and they are harder to replace - at least for me. I wish you all the best and thank you for replying to me!
The $5-8 premium is for the hardware auxiliary PCBs, or are there changes to the main unit too? That thing is asking for an ESP8266 wifi-enablement. :-)
Good question, but, I was more thinking of an ESP32 ... BLE, WiFi plus Ethernet (using LAN4720 thru RMII) all-in-one. Ethernet would be quite interresting for a bench power supply to prevent 2.4GHz close sources of the DUT setup.
You used wrong case, USB communication PCB has to go inside, correct case has microusb cutout and mounting holes. Also I think I will have to design custom fan PCB so it uses temeprature control and adjusts the fan smoothly.
any idea how to use esp8266 web server user input from a client as a variable? im trying to send user input from a esp site to i2c lcd screen and half way there it displays on the screen file not found so the user input is at the bottom and does not fit on screen so if i can use that user input as a var i can print that var value to the lcd screen, any ideas? the arduino forum refuse to help me and banned me for no reason.
My psu arrived, i mounted it a bit funky: took the screw off an existing to heatsink mount point, and put the same screw through an inverted to220 sized thermostat, then screwed it through the other to220 part and into the heatsink, so one screw holes both parts to the heatsink (though it's got to be said that half of the thermostats heatsink is hanging in the air, so not massively efficient, but i expect the heat to dissipate evenly despite the funny mounting). How did you do yours? and did you get around to mounting the usb/bluetooth board? I obviously can't put the BT module inside the chassis, so maybe on the backside?
Dear Andreas, how would I make this solar charger chip work with a 24v DC Solar panel? Sorry I am new at this... I ordered the same chip you tested in your video.
Hi Andreas, I have one of those 48V power supplies but managed to blow it up. Toke out the mosfets to get the numbers and order new ones, but can't find them any more. I think I throw them out not remembering where they came from. If you happen to find out the markings on the power mosfets and diodes, please leave a comment here. Maybe there is still hope. :) Cheers. Thumbs up as usual.
I connected it to my 1kW portable generator and attached the whole thing to my Escooter to convert it to hybrid. Added a 20 Amp schottky diode (2 x MBR10100 in parallel), in series with the battery to combat the regenerative braking voltage created each time I apply the brakes. Well 20A was not enough, and after a few minutes of stop and go, the diode blew and shorted, and the 30A of regenerative amps fed back into the supply and blew the mosfets to silicon heaven (or hell), with smoke and everything. Later, I made a current/voltage meter and was surprised that this scooter takes 40A to start going and up to 30 amps @60 volts is generated when I apply the brakes to slow down from max speed! in hindsight, I should've did the test before placing a 10A diode in path of a 40A load! Live and learn i guess.
I opened the case, but only could read for sure one of the two. It was a FQA9N90C. The other was not completely readable, but most probably is the same.
Well thank you. FQA9N90C is a 900V, 9A, 1.4 Ohm, N-MOSFET. I have lots of IRFPG50, which are 1000V, 6.1A, 2 Ohm N-MOSFETs in a similar package. I will put 4 instead of 2, and hope the total gate charge will be good enough to drive them properly. Worse case, it blows-up again :) Just for reference for other viewers, the Diode on the side of the case, is a 20JL2C which is a 600V, 20A, Fast recovery (50 nS) common cathode double diode. Thanks again Andreas. Appreciate it.
Thanks for Ur replay after some search and reverse engineering i get they are common ground when runs , so series operarion not possible if fed from same supply
The DPS5005 page on aliexpress shows a comment on AC-DC converter setup, I cannot really parse it and didnt see that you mention it in you video, any ideas about it? "if you use AC-DC converter or transformer coil, please add rectifier (rectifier bridge) and filter (more than 4700uf filter capacitor). If input power supply is unstable, please add LC, L is over 47uf, C is over 2200 uf.
I recently purchased a tenma 72-2540 (UK certified korad ka3005p clone), it's linear, £100, 30V 5A, and serial controllable. It's quite large and heavy. I'm not sure if I should send it back in place of this PSU which i just ordered - most of my work is digital and i could slap some 2F caps on the output to reduce ripple. Do you think i should send the posher PSU back?
Thanks a lot, I want to make a nice bench PSU but with two individual sources, and these controllers are very nice looking devices and far enough for my hobbist use.
One more thing, is there any problem can happen if i remove the two part from the heat sink and extend the connections in order to mount them on a much bigger heat sink?? With this i can remove the loud fan.
I think you have to ask the manufacturer. They hava a store at Aliexpress: rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042 They seems to care about their customers/products and likes to help out if possible.
So all the revenue you get is only enough to buy equipment for the chennel? What do you think would need to happen in order for you to start making over US$5000 a month?
Please forgive my ignorance, but a Power Supply is used only for converting high voltage electricity from mains to something that doesn't fry your appliances, right? I never quite understood the need for a fancy power supply when all I wanted was a stable flow of electrons. There's something I must've missed!
Cheaper power supplies will have ripple, lack current compensation, have voltage sag. Also, you can current limit, voltage limit, and many other functions that non-fancy power supplies won't carry.
Having a wide range of voltages is helpful, being able to accurately adjust the supply is a good thing, being able to measure the current draw is a great thing, and setting current limits is useful. All of this with an informative digital display is the ultimate goal of a bench power supply and normally that costs hundreds to thousands of dollars. This thing is a very good alternative to those high price bench supplies.
"Leave room, or burnt." 😅 definitely means Keep Spacing, or burnt... (learned some Chinese in Taiwan) however this is definitely mainland Chines, with funny stupid machine translation🤪
Hi Andreas, I also build one after you inspired me. On mine a added a DC Jack, and with an adapter I can use my laptop's power supply which brings 19v with 4,6 Amps. For me that's enough. ibb.co/iJAODk Regards Thomas
Maybe this Adpter is than also interesting to you:www.aliexpress.com/item/1X-DC-7-4-5-0-to-5-5-2-5-mm-Laptop-Power-Adapter-Converter/32715245432.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.pdDJx9
I guess it is innovative for a youtuber to hava a logo, but I think it should be smaller. Also @5:10 you show us a picture where the logo is already there and your video is adding the logo again. This can get annoying.
Andreas, please, stop using the overlay signature, or at leat use a much smaller one in the bottom right. it distracts too much and gets in the way of other stuff.
I feel like whoever designs these power supplies is a real enthusiast. They consistently improve their product and provide a great product at a very good price. Hopefully they add logging to the software.
Rd Tech awesome! If you need a beta tester for any of your products I've got a pretty complete amateur lab and would be happy to help out!
3:10 You can easily put a fan cut off switch on the rear of the case...
or even a thermo-mechanical N.O. sensor to start the fan if the internals get too warm.
Thanks for your tip. There are already a few comenters suggesting this. I ordered already one...
Super good review! Thanks Andreas Spiess. I was vacillating on BUYING OR NOT this unit. But after viewing your review, my mind is FULLY SET. I AM BUYING...thanks. I hope you continue making this INTELLIGENT AND WITHOUT NASTY COMMENTS about new devices churned out by Chinese designers. Yeah! Many disparage them.... but the devices these designers spin out are ACTUALLY FIRING UP THE IDEAS THAT ENABLE DIYers TO DO WHAT THEY DO. Thanks again Andreas..
I hope you will like it!
Actually, The company who made DPS5005 also sell a very nice enclosure that comes with it. Have all the cutouts and mounting post. The 4mm post included is also one of the best I'v seen. (I think it's the same one the eevblog have)
I can confirm the enclosure is nice.
Thanks. I've seen other videos using this type of supply but nobody measured the ripple. Good to know this so you can decide if you need to go for a linear design instead.
:-)
Thorough analysis as usual. Great video - and you even remembered to add a nice picture of your scope with the noise on it! Thank you.
Looking at the space inside the box, maybe a ferrite wound into the lead to the banana socket with a cap across the pins would improve it and possibly the startup spike mentioned below.
Ferrite chokes are always good and do no big harm :-)
Thank you so much. I have a similar power supply design with the large power source separate from the head unit. What I learned from this video was there are versions of the DSO head units with USB, Bluetooth support, and Windows remote control software. It would be cool it the software could capture the data for later analysis. Keep Broadcasting!!
Look forward to trying this out
:-)
I have the DPS5015 with the same case and quickly got tired of the noisy rear fan. However, I found that the fan on the main board is temperature controlled and is also 5v so i connected the rear fan to the same terminals as the main board fan. Now the rear fan only comes on when the main board heats up, problem solved! :) It doesn't look like the 5005 has the same setup, but it should work on the 5020.
Andrew Wise
Cool😀
Andrew Wise
Or you could replace the fan with a silent one
Andrew Wise...Great idea...
+ Andrew Wise: Good idea.
maybe using a transistor to drive the second fan powered by another line?
Powerful video! Another substantial step closer to the world tour.
Just came back from a 5000km roadtrip to the Black Sea...
and I thought Prague was a distance! Was this a kind of world-wide 'run up'?
No, it was just an idea of two old guys which already did a lot in their lifes...
Another first class job from Switzerland...
:-)
Thanks for this video, I set the power source at 53.2V to set my DPS5015 to 48V max, I think this is the top necesary to gain a equilibrium in performance vs security
Pay attention with too high voltages. They easily destroy the DPS.
Nicely done sir! I look forward to the solar panel charging tests!
Should be out by now...
Bit of pulse rip on the power supply Andreas. I remember having to fix a precision power supply by placing some capacitor between the earth rail and the power supply rail. Did the trick so I could calibrate the supply. By the way found out some nice ideas for my wind turbine, which I must get back too. Plus lots of lead this weekend. Keep it up will make one of your circuit holds. Anywsy have a wonderful day from Australia.
Thanks! Switching PS usually have more ripple. So, for delicate purposes, linear ones are still better...
Some of the fan manufacturers (the one I worked for) used to make fans with speed control option i.e. Thermistor on the fan hub that internally controls speed by Pwm based on temp(one chip does it all) For it to work the fan needs to pull air out of the case for obvious reasons.. Adda fans are option 4. Not sure about others.Simple small control unit is also an option. Like you I can't stand noisy fans. Any questions are welcome
Thanks for your comment.
not everybody has a 48V power supply at hand, but many of us have tons of obsolete notebook power supplies usually providing 19V@3A. Just use two of them to feed the DPS5005!
Good idea. Even with just one 19 volt supply!
i checked that heatsink on mosfets are quite easy to chance on this spesific model. it might be nice to make a thermal path to the aluminum case which would reduce the strain on heating bits.unfotrunetly its not easy to do but RD tech might sell extra heatsink just to reduce the need for fan. and thanks for your great work
Thanks!
I can only add my agreement with Andreas. I have four of these in operation and they all work just fine. Compared to most important electronics, this is almost too good to be true.
Thank you for sharing your experience!
Have the 20a version on back order along with a case. Will let you know how it goes.
Cheers Dave
Thanks!
13:40 Where did the "if (usefull or interesting)" slide go ?? I kind of liked it :)
BTW, thumbs up for another great video !
Things have to be moved from time to time to be sure they do not get rusty ;-)
Hi Andreas, thanks for another interesting video!
Can you please elaborate on your comment about the availability of open source software for the DPS5005? You question whether the open source version is necessary, because it can be controlled with the PC software. When you say PC software, I guess you mean Windows software - but some of ud don't use Windows, and thus welcome open source software that could be ported to our system (Mac, Linux, *BSD, etc).
Also, you mention you miss various features, such as data export and timestamps. The open source community is sometimes better at maintaining and enhancing software for specific hardware, than the hardware supplier is. So I personally consider available open source software as a very important feature.
Have I completely misunderstood that comment of yours?
Kind regards
As I understand this software was made in LabView. Seems to be that it available for Linux also. I know labview a little, may be it easy to solve some bugs in software, I think I can try
Martin Bøgelund adding support for it in Sigrok should be trivial.
Martin Bøgelund github.com/kanflo/opendps Have a look there. It is a replacement for the firmware and Python controlling scripts. Maybe that solves your needs. And thank you, Andreas, once again for an innteresting video! Cheers, Michael.
Rd Tech, nice to see the developer responding on this channel as well!
do you know Sigrok and would you consider to add support for it?
it seems that this would give you cross-platform capabilities immediately, including interoperability with other lab bench devices.
+ Евгений Поправка: That would be awesome!
+ Martin: I meant, the software on the device itself. The protocol is open, so no need to change the device part. As Bas mentioned, maybe somebody writes a Sigrok driver for this protocol.
I connected the switch differently so it switches off the fan (since I mostly use it with low loads)... As you say the power input anyway needs an 230v mains switch and the dps itself has an output on/off... So the switch is better used this way :)
I also think, this might be the way. Or a small comparator and a thermal resistor to switch the fan.
I love your videos. I don't comment often enough but I think that you have one of the best channels on You Tube.
Thank you for your nice words!
Excellent.
I've been keeping an eye on these cheap PSU modules, as I've never had a bench PSU, and was waiting for a good review / recommendation like this. ;)
I've seen the same (or similar) module on Julian's channel.
These are cheap enough two buy two or three, for multiple rail outputs. Maybe a tiny bit noisy for some audio stuff, but perfect for testing.
Loving the software for it. Very useful for tons of projects, especially when combined with more control and Logic Analyer gear.
A quick heads-up btw - there's a typo in "Communication" in the title. ;)
Thanks for the typo. Corrected...
12:20 Unfortunately in a long-time high load environment, a bigger heatsink and the fan is necessary (see my video with a long time, high load test)
You are right. I think, I showed this with my thermal camera...
For the software I would just do my own python script that reads a csv for set values and output another csv for the measured values. I would then just run gnuplot with pause 0.5 and reread to plot the data from the output csv
Only change "would" in "will" and share your code on Github ;-)
Much appreciated, this will be my first decent power source setup, really good, thnks as always
:-)
What I mean is that the unit would be a lot better if your recommendations where added to the devise. It would be a lot more user friendly.
Another cool video. and it would be cooler if your recommendations where added to this.
I do not understand
I've had my 3A 30v regulated linear PSU since 1985 and it is as good as the day I bought it, despite being used in a business and lugged around here there and everywhere. The amazing thing is it was dirt cheap at the time, but built really sturdily in a steel case and relays to select the voltage winding on the transformer automatically. Will these modern cheap ones last as long? The only niggle I have with it though is it has only one digital readout switchable between volts and amps. I strongly advise when buying one to have both.
So this was an excellent investment! I also have an old Voltcraft (linear) supply that I use when I do not want to have noise...
Thanks for the contribution!
I have the older DP30V5A as a mobile unit when a power supply is needed anywhere in the house. The user Interface is a bit fiddly.
In generalI found that the nois of the DC/DC converters interferes some Kind of devices. The small radar Motion sensors you presented some months ago do not work properly with small DC/DC converters.
Thanks for your Reply, friend. Nothing is broken. As you also con read here tech.scargill.net/microwave-for-the-weekend/#comments These Radar sensors are insane sensitive to ripples on the power supply. So, experimenting with these sensors and supplying wit my DP30V5A I got the Impression that the sesnors being defective. But they are not. Driven by a linear PS they work. Ir might be similar when driving audio preamps.
Sometimes, a capacitor at the right place can perform wonders...
Please, feel free to believe in wonders as a private citizen. But as an engineer you are not allowed to calculate on them. Otherwise they would not be wonders.
This ist the tragedy of our period: Nearly nobody still believes in wonders. But if you look into project schedules or business plans they seem to be full of wonders (but not wunderful).
In that special case of course I tested 1000uF elco and 10uF cerco without success. Reading Pete Scargill's blog you will find solutions with pi filters etc. For me it was much easier and faster to use a LDO and 2 cercos. This really works.
And anyway, the currents are not big. So, LDOs are a good solution...
Also excellent taken!
:-)
if the power input is 39v and the output is 24v, would it need a fan?
Depends on many things like current, duration of usage, ambient temperature
If the solar charger does not find the best voltge for the panel, it is NOT an mppt, which is by definition finding the optimal voltage
You are right.
sehr schön und informativ!
gut das die bienen bald in den winter gehen und ich mir dann solch ein netzteil bauen werde - der pc-anschluss war der "fehlende" punkt bei dieser modul-serie ....
happy hacking.
ps.: ein sehr kleiner tip - die kabeldurchführung für die kabel zum pc wird sicherlich noch mit einem kabelschutz versehen ;-) ;-.)
Meine (Wild)bienen schlafen schon länger...
Ich habe ein Gehäuse für das Bluetooth Modul direkt auf die Hinterseite des Gehäuses geklebt...
use a thermal snap switch...cheap and easy, thermostatic fan control
Good idea. Already ordered...
It could be nice to connect a small wemos esp8266 to monitor some parameters and also control the fan or settings via mqtt.
So, you have a project you could build ;-)
You are awesome! These type of videos are exactly what I wanted to see!
Thanks!
the voltage of LED's are not a concern. LED's are current devices which needs a constant current source to properly operate.
You are right.
I think the warning was telling you to keep the power supply free to breathe and to not smother it as it will burn itself up since it has no temperature monitoring.
Maybe you are right!
And by the way I really enjoy yout videos. Keep up the great wrk
Thanks!
On the pcb for supply the fan, I put a 4.3 kohm resistor in paralelle on the 3.0 k at the FB input of the xl7005A. The voltage is now 3.5 V and the fan make no noise. Ok, the air flux is not important, but it's OK for me . Bye
Good idea. Thanks.
Fuck, now I have to buy this thing also... It is too cool... I am going to die poor... :D
I try my best to have fun. :D
Have you checked if the DPS5005 has a nasty spike when you turn on the output like a lot of switching power supplies? Thanks for all the great videos. I mainly use Teensy but the ESP32 is looking good now that the Arduino support is getting mature.
No, I did not look at that particularly. So, I do not know. Maybe somebody else experienced it?
Well, don't expect the Chinese will improve the software, if someone feel useful and willing to reverse engineered a new one with all the feature you want, that's great. And welcome to this kind of review or review and teaching how to use, I'm not totally dumb but not smart enough to find out all the features.
Thank you. But i think that better add wifi, than bt.
Great video as always! I wonder what your thoughts are on the comparison of this DPS series of supply with the DPH series by the same manufacturer which are so-called "boost-buck" where the supply voltage can be above or below that of the load. I'm looking at building a small bench power supply and can't decide between this DPS5005 and the DPH3205. Obviously the big advantage of the DPH is that I can supply it with 12v instead of 50v and still get 32v out, but I wonder if I am missing some disadvantage (apart from the 32v limit) that as an inexperienced amateur I haven't thought of. I would very much welcome your thoughts.
Gavin Smalley
Good question. ;)
Hopefully Andreas will review a DPH soon, and test it for noise etc.
I'm wondering if it's a true buck-boost too, or just have a boost reg preceding the normal buck circuit?
I have a spare 24V 10A "Mean Well" clone PSU to use, and I guess I'm not likely to need an output above 12-15V anyway, so I'll probably grab two or three DPS modules soon.
There are many different power supplies, but only this one with the communication and the software. This is, why I presented it. I do not think, I will test power supplies in General because there are many videos around.
If you need a Buck or a buck-boost supply depends on your needs. I prefer to have a high input voltage and only use a buck converter. But if you have limitations on the input voltage, a buck-boost device is handy.
Gavin,
If I understand it correctly, the DPH3205 has twice the ripple and is less efficient (waste more energy). I have the DPS3005, 5015, 5020 (com version) and also the DPH3205.
Nice modules and good bang for the buck. But they are not perfect. A bit slow going from one voltage to another. Not super fast in voltage regulation with a PWM load. The output capacitor stores some energy that the CC mode might not catch if you attach a DUT with power enabled.
But still, I like 'em and will keep buying new models as they come :-)
So, for a stationary supply, go for DPS. For a field PSU with perhaps a battery from a power tool as source, go for the DPH.
Nobody is expecting this to be perfect. This is not a 500 $ Rigol.
I bought one of this but I can't understand why I have to pay the box the same as the device!
Because electronics are cheap these days?
Morning Andreas😀😀
It's Sunday yippie😀
I am a bit late because last week, I was on the road...
Andreas Spiess forgiven 🤗
:-)
Andreas:
Thanks for the video. In my experimentation with the DPS5005 units, the noise and ripple characteristics vary a great deal depending on the output voltage (less so on the output current).
In particular, it seems to be much more noisy near 0 volts, and near V_in. I have tried the measurements using various power supplies, including both DC-DC, regulated, and unregulated. The ideal input power supply, I suppose, would be a 48V battery bank.
Can you make these measurements and report back?
By the way, you can safely go slightly above the maximum input voltage of 55V (in the case of an unregulated supply, one may want to start higher near 56 or 57V so that, when it drops down, it always stays 1.5V above 50V so you can get 50.0V output.)
As an engineer I try to stay inside specs, knowing that it is sometimes possible to get outside with no harm...
hi, does anyone know the model of the little solar charger?, thanks
One thing, the fw of the device have no support to updates. The vendor don't provide the binary files.
So far I did not need a update. I am happy with the functionality.
I have bought the dps5005, without any communication modules. Can I buy the Bluetooth module seperately? Thanks
I do not know. Maybe you ask the manufacturer?
Thank you Andreas for your videos! You are a great community leader! I just assembled the DSP5020 with the USB ... I added fuses on both input+output that I can reset with resettable fuse... I'm sure everyone does at least one fuse - the manufacture should protect the DPS's with diodes+fuses - I'm emailing them in few minutes about it. Has anyone found a way to export the data to Excel using the existing software? Thank you guys!
AFAIK there is a fuse included in the module.
I know, but I'm very anal so I wanted a resettable fuse and I used a lower value, just in case, to protect it from my "mistakes"! But thanks for letting me and other know. The fuses are soldered onto the PCB and they are harder to replace - at least for me. I wish you all the best and thank you for replying to me!
The $5-8 premium is for the hardware auxiliary PCBs, or are there changes to the main unit too? That thing is asking for an ESP8266 wifi-enablement. :-)
Good question, but, I was more thinking of an ESP32 ... BLE, WiFi plus Ethernet (using LAN4720 thru RMII) all-in-one. Ethernet would be quite interresting for a bench power supply to prevent 2.4GHz close sources of the DUT setup.
The device itself is also different. It has more component and also the plug for the interface cards.
Oh... this is actually a good one. I have couple of this
:-)
You used wrong case, USB communication PCB has to go inside, correct case has microusb cutout and mounting holes.
Also I think I will have to design custom fan PCB so it uses temeprature control and adjusts the fan smoothly.
You are right.
@@AndreasSpiess As always xD
Btw. I'm building battery powered one using 10s1p li-on battery pack
I like your videos a lot. Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
Thanks for the nice video!
You are welcome!
any idea how to use esp8266 web server user input from a client as a variable? im trying to send user input from a esp site to i2c lcd screen and half way there it displays on the screen file not found so the user input is at the bottom and does not fit on screen so if i can use that user input as a var i can print that var value to the lcd screen, any ideas? the arduino forum refuse to help me and banned me for no reason.
I do not know what your question has to do with power supplies?
Hey! THX!
Could you _please_ give me some _examples_ of "additional filtering for delicate circuits"?
Usually you can use capacitors and inductors to filter undesired frequencies. You sould find tutorials about this topic.
So these devices are buck converters, meaning that they won't output higher voltage than you put in?
Yes
You could hook up the fan to a 50C thermostat.
You are right. It already arrived and I just have to mount it...
My psu arrived, i mounted it a bit funky: took the screw off an existing to heatsink mount point, and put the same screw through an inverted to220 sized thermostat, then screwed it through the other to220 part and into the heatsink, so one screw holes both parts to the heatsink (though it's got to be said that half of the thermostats heatsink is hanging in the air, so not massively efficient, but i expect the heat to dissipate evenly despite the funny mounting). How did you do yours? and did you get around to mounting the usb/bluetooth board? I obviously can't put the BT module inside the chassis, so maybe on the backside?
Thank you for the video. It was very useful. Do you have a link or 3D printer STL for the Bluetooth module cover box?
No, I did not save it, because it was just a simple box.
Can you use the BT and USB boards at the same time with proper parallel wiring?
I do no more remember.
Is there any improvement in SW in meantime regarding data export?
I do not know.
Do u mind to share your 48V power source purchase detail link. I would like to get one
I added the link in the desscription
Did you tried a non-switching power supply? Can it be better to reduce the ripples?
+Paolo Sulprizio My Voltcraft in the video is linear. You should have a picture of the ripple in the video.
Dear Andreas, how would I make this solar charger chip work with a 24v DC Solar panel? Sorry I am new at this... I ordered the same chip you tested in your video.
Unfortunately, I cannot answer these general questions.
Hi Andreas,
I have one of those 48V power supplies but managed to blow it up. Toke out the mosfets to get the numbers and order new ones, but can't find them any more. I think I throw them out not remembering where they came from.
If you happen to find out the markings on the power mosfets and diodes, please leave a comment here. Maybe there is still hope. :)
Cheers. Thumbs up as usual.
UFOhunter
May I ask what caused it to blow up?
It's always interesting, as we've all done something similar. hehe ;)
I connected it to my 1kW portable generator and attached the whole thing to my Escooter to convert it to hybrid. Added a 20 Amp schottky diode (2 x MBR10100 in parallel), in series with the battery to combat the regenerative braking voltage created each time I apply the brakes.
Well 20A was not enough, and after a few minutes of stop and go, the diode blew and shorted, and the 30A of regenerative amps fed back into the supply and blew the mosfets to silicon heaven (or hell), with smoke and everything.
Later, I made a current/voltage meter and was surprised that this scooter takes 40A to start going and up to 30 amps @60 volts is generated when I apply the brakes to slow down from max speed!
in hindsight, I should've did the test before placing a 10A diode in path of a 40A load!
Live and learn i guess.
I opened the case, but only could read for sure one of the two. It was a FQA9N90C. The other was not completely readable, but most probably is the same.
Well thank you.
FQA9N90C is a 900V, 9A, 1.4 Ohm, N-MOSFET. I have lots of IRFPG50, which are 1000V, 6.1A, 2 Ohm N-MOSFETs in a similar package. I will put 4 instead of 2, and hope the total gate charge will be good enough to drive them properly. Worse case, it blows-up again :)
Just for reference for other viewers, the Diode on the side of the case, is a 20JL2C which is a 600V, 20A, Fast recovery (50 nS) common cathode double diode.
Thanks again Andreas. Appreciate it.
We are here to help each other, I think...
Are you going to do a Good an Cheap Oscilloscope? Thanks.
I have no such plans for the moment
Does tihis power supply has a short circuit protection,I mean will it die if my circuit has a short ?
It has a current limiter.
Oh ,thanks!
Thanks for sharing :-)
:-)
super video, danke
Bitte, gern geschehen.
Hi thanks for such nice video , I need a little suggestion , can I use two DPS5005 in series , i run them from same source.
I am not sure. check if the ground of both power supplies is connected. If so, you get a short. If not, it might work.
Thanks for Ur replay after some search and reverse engineering i get they are common ground when runs , so series operarion not possible if fed from same supply
The DPS5005 page on aliexpress shows a comment on AC-DC converter setup, I cannot really parse it and didnt see that you mention it in you video, any ideas about it?
"if
you use AC-DC converter or transformer coil, please add rectifier
(rectifier bridge) and filter (more than 4700uf filter capacitor). If
input power supply is unstable, please add LC, L is over 47uf, C is over
2200 uf.
its about the power supply. they want you to not connect a ac source directly, it needs to clean ripple free dc.
Rd Tech If I use a standard ac-dc psu is that enough or do I have to check deeply about its specs?
Where did you find an English copy of the EB Tester Software. All I can seem to find is Chinese copies.
A link is on the product page of Banggood. I included it now in the video description.
Thanks... Andreas.
I recently purchased a tenma 72-2540 (UK certified korad ka3005p clone), it's linear, £100, 30V 5A, and serial controllable. It's quite large and heavy. I'm not sure if I should send it back in place of this PSU which i just ordered - most of my work is digital and i could slap some 2F caps on the output to reduce ripple. Do you think i should send the posher PSU back?
My main PS is still an old linear one. So, it is up to you, I think.
Where the waveform with the oscilloscope?
I do not understand your question.
Wat solar charger board for lipo do you use? I am looking for one :-)
Not decided yet.
Is that your own solar lithium-ion charging module or an off-the-shelf product?
I did some videos about Solar chargers. This was one of the modules from these videos (of the shelf)
Andreas Spiess What video number?
#154/155
how fast to get max output after i set particular voltage value
I do not know.
Where did you find the manual & software?
I do not remember. Probably google.
Hello, can be used in strobe mode ?
I do not know. Maybe you ask the manufacturer.
Hi great PSU but is there possible to connect the ground of two units in order to build a dual Bench PSU???
tuccerHU Only with two separate input power sources. The current sense is on the low side.
Thanks a lot, I want to make a nice bench PSU but with two individual sources, and these controllers are very nice looking devices and far enough for my hobbist use.
One more thing, is there any problem can happen if i remove the two part from the heat sink and extend the connections in order to mount them on a much bigger heat sink?? With this i can remove the loud fan.
I think you have to ask the manufacturer. They hava a store at Aliexpress: rdtech.aliexpress.com/store/923042
They seems to care about their customers/products and likes to help out if possible.
If you wire everything properly, I do not see a problem.
So all the revenue you get is only enough to buy equipment for the chennel? What do you think would need to happen in order for you to start making over US$5000 a month?
I do not know.
Please forgive my ignorance, but a Power Supply is used only for converting high voltage electricity from mains to something that doesn't fry your appliances, right? I never quite understood the need for a fancy power supply when all I wanted was a stable flow of electrons. There's something I must've missed!
Cheaper power supplies will have ripple, lack current compensation, have voltage sag. Also, you can current limit, voltage limit, and many other functions that non-fancy power supplies won't carry.
Having a wide range of voltages is helpful, being able to accurately adjust the supply is a good thing, being able to measure the current draw is a great thing, and setting current limits is useful. All of this with an informative digital display is the ultimate goal of a bench power supply and normally that costs hundreds to thousands of dollars. This thing is a very good alternative to those high price bench supplies.
For sure, you missed a few details. But in general, you are right ;-)
Was haben sie für ein Netzteil fürs Netzteil genommen?
Ich habs in irgend einem Mailbag gezeigt: Ein 48 Volt 10 Ampere Teil. Ist etwas überdimensioniert, aber war nicht viel teurer...
Sir why not 5015 instead 5005
Because it does not have these communication features
thank you very much :)
"Leave room, or burnt." 😅 definitely means Keep Spacing, or burnt... (learned some Chinese in Taiwan) however this is definitely mainland Chines, with funny stupid machine translation🤪
Translation is not easy. That is why I am astonished how good google translate became (at least when I used it).
Hi Andreas, I also build one after you inspired me. On mine a added a DC Jack, and with an adapter I can use my laptop's power supply which brings 19v with 4,6 Amps. For me that's enough. ibb.co/iJAODk
Regards
Thomas
Good Idea. I have a similar project on my list for a mobile device using the Laptop PS. But I wanted to add also a few USB jacks...
Maybe this Adpter is than also interesting to you:www.aliexpress.com/item/1X-DC-7-4-5-0-to-5-5-2-5-mm-Laptop-Power-Adapter-Converter/32715245432.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.pdDJx9
Thanks.
I guess it is innovative for a youtuber to hava a logo, but I think it should be smaller. Also @5:10 you show us a picture where the logo is already there and your video is adding the logo again. This can get annoying.
Thanks for your comment.
Huh only 5 views prntscr.com/g7tpv7 :D
I like this power supply, but why it heats up so much?
Andreas, please, stop using the overlay signature, or at leat use a much smaller one in the bottom right. it distracts too much and gets in the way of other stuff.
Thanks for your feedback.
I'd prefer if you made the signature larger and more towards the center. Nothing worse than seeing your vid get freebooted.
I dont like the New watermark :(
Thanks for your comment. Maybe I reduce its size. Still playing.
Andreas Spiess the watermark is very nice no need to change it
first!!! haha
not so much funny as satisfying
You bore me. Don't bother responding. I won't read it.