I like the look of that neck jig. Think I need to make one. I use a couple of tiny wee nails cut off close to the neck surface to just stop the fretboard slipping. Subscribed now btw. Cheers from Scotland.
Welcome Scotland! Thanks for watching and subscribing! The jig has been a big help, multiple uses. I tried the nails on a scarf joint and had alignment issues. I have to work on my technique, I'll try it again. Thank you for commenting. It's funny how a comment can motivate me to try something again. Thanks! Cheers!
@@crackerjack3359 I use a router table with the same bit. You still have to do some shaping around the heal, headstock and give the neck your preferred thickness and feel. Like I said…
I really like your neck jig and I WILL make a modified version but with slots instead of holes. Maybe use the paste wax on the sides too. By way of thanks I would like to share some tips with you from my batch production method. I've now made 180+ GBGs I use only Hard Maple for necks. In buy a 10ft board say 6.5" wide from a wholesaler not a box store. This works out as $3.50 per neck. Hard maple requires very little sanding and looks great. One or maybe two coats of Mahoneys Wanut Oil and they are silky smooth, and durable. I use only heads over neck scarf joints. I stopped making fancy heads for the guitars because I use an edge planer for flattening the necks and a table router to shape the necks. I do sometimes add wings after the neck is complete. Very rarely though. My customers like the plain look and It helps me contain the cost. I cut my frets on a mighty mite table saw. I cut .018 slots which give a really tight fit without glue. ttps://ua-cam.com/video/FkNmLIJdoHk/v-deo.html All my builds have the strings through the box and neck. In order to line up the holes for the strings I lay a rule along each side of the neck and mark back to tape on top of the box. I can them drill the holes between these lines. I do burn a lot of rustic boxes with a torch, but I have stopped burning the necks because it can distort the neck. I now use alcohol dyes in various combinations on the neck and sometimes on the box too. Of course the maple looks great on it's own. I quit using piezzo pick ups a few years ago, and only use magnetic pick ups now. Just far superior especially with gain on the amp. I have stopped making my own boxes except for custom builds. Again to cut costs by saving time PS. I'm retired, and while building axes is my hobby, my passion is turning wood on the lathe. Thanks again for the jig. Jim, Crafted in Montana.
May I recommend Analine dye for colour matching on the Monte Cristo. For a glassy finish sand through 400/800/1000 grit sandpaper, finish with rottenstone pumice. Buff out with "Gel-Gloss kitchen & bath polish. Consider tagua nut for fingerboard dots on dark neck ( available at Lee Valley hardware.)
Thank you for the information, that is awesome. Unfortunately, the damage has been done. I have already dyed the neck with a yellow dye. My colour match did not go well and actually, I really don't like the yellow now. I now have to decide what to do about it. Sand it off, paint the neck, I haven't decided yet. Thank you so much for the information, you have mentioned a couple of products I am not familiar with, more to learn. Thank you for watching and thank you for the info! I will try this on a future build!
@@WoodPortGuitars If you haven't sealed the wood the dye should wash off (mostly). Try mixing different dyes to get the desired tone. Starting on some scrap is always a good idea ☺️.
I will try washing it off, see how that goes. I did try on some scrap of the same wood, and I thought I had the match, but when the whole neck was done, yikes. I only had green, yellow and white available. I used the white to tone down the yellow, but not enough. Thanks Bruce! Cheers!
No, only the little drawing I made when I was thinking about building the jig. I knew I wanted it about 12 inches high and 24 inches long. I use a 15 degree angle on my headstock, so that is the angle on the jig. Thanks for watching! Hope that helps.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm starting my second guitar, a 4 string, and it’s so helpful to see your method.
You're very welcome. And thank you for watching. My next guitar is a 4 string also. It's going to be fun! Cheers!
That neck jig is very well designed.
Thank you. It works great.
What an exalent build,im very impressed, keep the awesome build videos coming, love you brother, awesome
Many thanks! Cheers!
That's a really cool way to do the headstock ty
Thanks, trying to be original. Thanks for watching. Cheers!
I like the look of that neck jig. Think I need to make one. I use a couple of tiny wee nails cut off close to the neck surface to just stop the fretboard slipping. Subscribed now btw. Cheers from Scotland.
Welcome Scotland! Thanks for watching and subscribing! The jig has been a big help, multiple uses. I tried the nails on a scarf joint and had alignment issues. I have to work on my technique, I'll try it again. Thank you for commenting. It's funny how a comment can motivate me to try something again. Thanks! Cheers!
The Shinto. The most versatile tool for a cigarbox guitar builder..
It is awesome!
Not really. I'm using a a 5/8 table router quick and easy.
@@crackerjack3359 I use a router table with the same bit. You still have to do some shaping around the heal, headstock and give the neck your preferred thickness and feel. Like I said…
@@b476816 I agree you have too with your method
Both look great.
Big fan of the Shinto also.
Thank you! The shinto is awesome !
Awesome build brother new friend/sub from Texas
Welcome! Glad to have you along for the ride. I appreciate you watching!
I really like your neck jig and I WILL make a modified version but with slots instead of holes. Maybe use the paste wax on the sides too. By way of thanks I would like to share some tips with you from my batch production method.
I've now made 180+ GBGs
I use only Hard Maple for necks. In buy a 10ft board say 6.5" wide from a wholesaler not a box store. This works out as $3.50 per neck. Hard maple requires very little sanding and looks great. One or maybe two coats of Mahoneys Wanut Oil and they are silky smooth, and durable.
I use only heads over neck scarf joints.
I stopped making fancy heads for the guitars because I use an edge planer for flattening the necks and a table router to shape the necks. I do sometimes add wings after the neck is complete. Very rarely though. My customers like the plain look and It helps me contain the cost.
I cut my frets on a mighty mite table saw. I cut .018 slots which give a really tight fit without glue.
ttps://ua-cam.com/video/FkNmLIJdoHk/v-deo.html
All my builds have the strings through the box and neck. In order to line up the holes for the strings I lay a rule along each side of the neck and mark back to tape on top of the box. I can them drill the holes between these lines.
I do burn a lot of rustic boxes with a torch, but I have stopped burning the necks because it can distort the neck. I now use alcohol dyes in various combinations on the neck and sometimes on the box too. Of course the maple looks great on it's own.
I quit using piezzo pick ups a few years ago, and only use magnetic pick ups now. Just far superior especially with gain on the amp.
I have stopped making my own boxes except for custom builds. Again to cut costs by saving time
PS. I'm retired, and while building axes is my hobby, my passion is turning wood on the lathe.
Thanks again for the jig. Jim, Crafted in Montana.
Awesome! Thanks for watching and commenting! Cheers!
Nice job.
Thank you! And Thanks For Watching!
May I recommend Analine dye for colour matching on the Monte Cristo. For a glassy finish sand through 400/800/1000 grit sandpaper, finish with rottenstone pumice. Buff out with "Gel-Gloss kitchen & bath polish. Consider tagua nut for fingerboard dots on dark neck ( available at Lee Valley hardware.)
Thank you for the information, that is awesome. Unfortunately, the damage has been done. I have already dyed the neck with a yellow dye. My colour match did not go well and actually, I really don't like the yellow now. I now have to decide what to do about it. Sand it off, paint the neck, I haven't decided yet. Thank you so much for the information, you have mentioned a couple of products I am not familiar with, more to learn. Thank you for watching and thank you for the info! I will try this on a future build!
@@WoodPortGuitars If you haven't sealed the wood the dye should wash off (mostly). Try mixing different dyes to get the desired tone. Starting on some scrap is always a good idea ☺️.
I will try washing it off, see how that goes. I did try on some scrap of the same wood, and I thought I had the match, but when the whole neck was done, yikes. I only had green, yellow and white available. I used the white to tone down the yellow, but not enough. Thanks Bruce! Cheers!
@@WoodPortGuitars reducing the concentration may also work.
One maybe two coats of Walnut oil and my necks are perfect.
Do you have plans for that Jig?
No, only the little drawing I made when I was thinking about building the jig. I knew I wanted it about 12 inches high and 24 inches long. I use a 15 degree angle on my headstock, so that is the angle on the jig. Thanks for watching! Hope that helps.
The pickup hole?
The ground hole for the bridge. Which is another issue, the bridge is painted and not conductive. Thanks Steve!
Great, do some new cbg videos.
Thanks! Ok, I will
You know a drum sander would save you an enormous amount of work and time because you can’t get back time and it’s running out
So true.