LOL i saw a couple of dozens of video's for taking care of leather hiking boots, you are the best informing, and actually showing stuff, while most just talk. awesome and many thanks. much more useful then the others!
Great advice, just to add, if your boots are soaked through from cleaning or use, stuff them with newspaper which will help soak up excess water, leave them over night but as you say dont put them on a radiator, In the morning change the paper once they are dry then you can treat them. If you do use Dubbin put it on and leave it dont buff it up. just apply a light layer all over and let it soak in. This is how I would try and increase water resistance on my old Army issue boots. If your boots dont have removable insoles (luckily most do today) when you store your boots pop a tumble dryer sheet inside them, this helps get rid of any odours
Thankyou. Just bought nearly new Austrian Para boots. I do a lot of wild camping and walking all year round. Especially on Dartmoor a few miles from me. So a fair amount of us in wet weather. I've been using surplus boots since I first bought my latt pair 7 years ago, wearing them outside nearly everyday for long winters and my sea fishing. This is a great pair of boots and being ex military, I I only used good shoe polish on the last pair and polished them two or three times a week Kiwi or Cherryblossom black polish, buull the toe caps and working it into creases and arch. I'm afraid I did so much muddy gardening for friends and neighbours that I sometimes left them covered in clay and earth for a few days. They eventually started showing the effects of rot in the arches and cracks where my toes bent. They have not gone right through, so are still waterproof, and so comfortable, i was with heavy heart They have been replaced by a younger ,better looking model. Do not despair however, I have a great pair of working boots for my voluntary work. Oh , I'm 62 ,my doctor stopped me working!!! I learned just what I needed to know today. It was very informative and used layman's (layperson?) language that was consise and brilliantly produced and demonstrated. Happy Hiking folks.
I really enjoyed these two videos. I've seen many others talking about cleaning and re-proofing but yours is the first I've seen that looks as testing a pair of boots for leaks. I hope you might do a detailed video on reproofing a waterproof jacket and trousers... ;-) Thanks for sharing.
This is why I've opted for shell boots with no membrane. It's gonna be one of the first things to go out anyways so I'd much rather have some quality leather boots that will be practically waterproof if cared for properly. On another side note, I really wish I lived in the UK, would love to support Trekitt.
If you're happy to keep up the maintenance, classic leather boots are a brilliant investment. We do ship to most of Europe if that helps! Our website contains all of the products that we film and publish on UA-cam. www.trekitt.co.uk/
@@trekitt I'm aware, you ship to mine as well. But it's the customs that make it an unfeasible option. Anything over £35 (including shipping) gets taxed an additional 25-35% to protect local businesses.
are you finding boots that aren't made to be waterproof but still have tongues that are attached all the way to the top? Otherwise, it won't be water resistant even as high your ankles. In general, I refuse to buy shoes that aren't waterproof. I really like the convenience of walking through winter slush, stepping through puddles on the sidewalk, walking across wet grass, ..whatever.
@ 9:35 could you clarify what was said about doing it just before needing the boots? Does the wax weaken/etc overtime even when not used? I was intending on getting this chore done now in summer and use my all-leather boots in the winter
It's best to treat the boots the day before to allow time for the product to effectively penetrate the fabric. I'm not sure whether wax weakens when left alone for a few months to be honest. Give it a go and let us know! Harry
t depends very much on the quality and thickness of the leather used for the boots. Zamberlan or Diotto for instance use pre oiled thick leather for their boots... Most important is how many stiching and seems compose the upper part of the boot... the less the better. The internal membrane also helps to improve water repellency
@@greekveteran2715 your big issue with both boots will be fit. Both brands make great boots and Zamberlan Italian made boots are some of the best on the market. The quality of the workmanship is impressive. But.. if they don't suit your feet then they're not the boots for you. Zamberlan length and width sizing can be tricky. A friend owns an outdoor gear store and he gets more returns from online orders for Zamberlan than say Meindl. Not because they're bad boots but because the customer didn't know their size in that model or whether to order standard or wide fit. Meindl seems to fit a lot of Irish & UK feet as they use a last (the foot model used to make boots) which is medium to wide and doesn't have a very pointed assymetric toe box. Zamberlan are more accommodating than say La Sportiva which make some quite narrow footwear. The more technical the fit, the trickier it is to find a shoe that fits well. It's a bad idea to go more than a half size up to accommodate foot width if you're losing precision. That's a sign that boot and brand doesn't work for you. My friend says it's like a revelation when someone who has been routinely buying a brand that doesn't fit their feet well moves to something better and more comfortable following a proper boot fitting. An awful lot of money is wasted by people buying shoe and boot brands that don't fit them optimally and then convincing themselves a boot will "break in"
@@sdemosi You should have said that a year ago! I did the mistake you describe and ordered the Hanwag TatraII a size up!! I did that because I was reading on comments and reviews, that they come a size narrower than normal and I got kind of thick feet!! First 2 times I used them, seemed I did right! However, after some breaking in, my mistake showed up.. I ordered a pair of thicker insoles, because the factory ones, are not up to the performance I was expecting from Hanwag. They come too thin without any cushion at all! The insoles, and a pair of thick wool socks, looked like they fixed my mistake, but you are 100% right, because I feel that the boots are longer than they should have been. At least, I can use them for short walks in the winter, but I wouldn't use them , for a long hike!! My mistake was big, because I neither have a store nearby, to go and try a proper pair, nor I have the money, to order another one... Happy new Year!! PS, remind that to others too, you might save people from a lot of trouble! I was just unlucky..
Hey! Loved the video, I just have one question. What do you recommend doing with sandy boots? I was hiking a day or two ago, and at the end we had to cross a pretty well submerged sand spit. We took off our gators and footwear, but sand is sand and it managed to get its way inside my boots. I've cleaned the outside, but the sand is quite stubborn. Have you any tips?
The process will largely be the same for the outer (stiff brush & water), however for the insides I'd also give them a vacuum to remove the stuck sand. It'll also make it easier to remove the footbed and clean that separately. I hope that helps! Harry.
Dubbin is a bit outdated these days and most brands don't recommend it. Same applies to a polish for outdoor gear. This is what we generally recommend for most leather boots: www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-g-wax__36111
I've bought the Meindl Merans and have also bought the sports wax and conditioner and proofing spray. Just wondering what order to apply them in? Thanks and great video.
To clean: www.trekitt.co.uk/2459/products/nikwax-footwear-cleaning-gel-125ml.aspx To condition: www.trekitt.co.uk/8842/products/nikwax-conditioner-for-leather-125ml.aspx To reproof (add the DWR back to the upper): www.trekitt.co.uk/2457/products/nikwax-fabric-and-leather-proof-125ml.aspx
should you seal your boots when you get them to help them stay new or should you wait for the water repellent to go go before treating them.. I got some addidas terrex r2 mid swift gtx from yourself. what treatment and cleaning kit would you recommend for them.
It largely depends on the manufacturer; Meindl, for example, recommend treating their footwear before use, however in your case the Adidas' are good to go from the box. Just give them a top-up once the DWR begins to break down. Kind regards, Harry.
Every day is a school day! We recommend the following cleaning products: www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/nikwax-footwear-cleaning-gel-125ml__2459 www.trekitt.co.uk/clothing/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-footwear-and-gear-cleaner-275ml__39997 www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-footwear-care-kit__36115
Thanks for the great video. One question - should meindl sport wax be applied to wet or dry leather? It looks like you apply it to wet in the video, but the sport wax container I have doesn't make any mention of this. Thanks! :)
As long as the leather isn't completely waterlogged it is fine to apply to damp boots, but equally fine to apply to dry ones. We sometimes find a slightly damp boot will take the care product a little easier than one that's completely dry.
Be grateful if you could indicate whether Rab will be looking to use their TILT tech. in Rab’s other ranges of down sleeping bags & jackets in the future? Best regards.
The TILT liner that Rab use is quite an expensive add-in to their products at the moment, which is why for the most part you see it on their high-end down jackets and down/synthetic sleeping bags. That's not to say that it won't see a wider rollout in the future, but for now it looks like Rab are keeping it for a smaller collection of their kit.
Appreciate you taking the time to respond to my query. Useful advice & tips on maintaining your boots. Dried boots out thoroughly after i last wore them out in monsoon-like conditions & brushed, cleaned & reproofed them. But each time i’ve wore them since they develop a mouldy smell. Any advice or tips for mountain/walking GTX boots that have started to smell funky inside? Regards.
@babursherazi Sounds like a more thorough approach is required after a potential boggy encounter. The inner lining of your boots can also benefit from a clean every now and then too which will help with the smell. Fill your boots with lukewarm water after removing the insoles, you can give those a bit of a scrub separately, and allow to soak for a while. Pour out the water and repeat to get rid of the worst of it, then using a footwear safe cleaner on the inside, like the Nikwax Hannah used in this video, give the inside a good scrub to clean the liner. Once you've given them a good going over and a final rinse you can leave them to dry naturally, or stuff with newspaper or Drysure boot dryers to help with the drying process. They should smell significantly fresher after this! Just make sure you give them ample time to dry before using them again.
I presume the Drysure boot driers are more effective than balls of paper or silica gel sachets? Would you see any value in using a light spritz of Odour Eaters/Dr Scholl-type anti-fungal sprays on the liner & insole after cleaning & drying? Much obliged.
@@bob-a-job The Drysure boot dryers are a great reusable option for drying footwear and minimising odours. They're silica gel packaged into a more convenient shape for using in boots, but silica gel or newspaper balls will also work just fine. You can use anti-fungal or odour eliminating sprays on the inners of your boots if you choose to, it will help, just don't go overboard with the amount used!
Thanks for a very useful video. Are the boots featured in the video leather or nubuck? I have very similar looking meindl boots in nubuck so have always assumed that I shouldn’t use wax. Is that a wrong assumption?
You can apply a small amount of leather treatment to the inners, but the inners take care of themselves a little easier in a leather lined boot, can be a bit gross to think about, but our sweat and skin oils will usually be enough to keep the leather in good condition on the inside without the addition of leather treatment. Think about a leather wallet or belt, very rare that you'd have to treat them, they're in constant contact with us and that's what keeps them in good condition. Wetting and drying due to cleaning is absolutely fine and won't damage the leather.
Yup, it'll work. Nikwax do have a nubuck & suede product though: www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/nikwax-nubuck-and-suede-proof-125ml__2460
Can I wear leather boots for bushcraft? I have altberg defenders and will be making outdoor fires quite a bit. Will it be bad sitting by the fire with my leather boots on? Will it damage them?
@@trekitt hi! Is it necessary to wax suede/nubuck GTX hiking boots? Do you need to nourish the leather like smooth leather? Or is a suede waterrepellt treatment like nikwaxs' enough?
The plunger reseals each time so the product doesn't leak out. You press the plunger,it breaks the seal again,and it charges the foam applicator pad with product.
Draining any excess water and then leaving to air dry is optimal. You can stuff with newspaper (changing it out regularly) to help with the drying process, but leaving them to dry naturally is what we're looking for to prolong the lifespan of the boots and avoid forcing them dry.
I've not personally used one and I'm not sure how hot they get, so I couldn't say for sure. When we say force drying, we typically mean radiators, fires, ovens, hairdryers, etc, where the heat could physically damage the leather. Harry
My son received Helly Hansen boots last year and wore them through the winter, and I must admit I had no knowledge of cleaning/caring... They're soaking through this year. If I perform this cleaning/caring, will they still be okay?
What if the boots are really sticky/greasy after say ~12h after applying the wax? Would you say too much wax was applied? Should one then "buff" them up?
It's hard to say without looking at them, but yes, you may have applied too much in one go. It's best to apply lots of thin layers if possible. Just go out for a walk and the excess will wash off. Harry
Great video, really helpful and clear and I'll make some adjustments to how I clean my boots.. I didn't realise just how important cleaning the inside was... now I know! I do around 60 miles a week in my Meindel boots (bought from Trekitt) - I have two pairs; one on and one off drying / being cleaned.
Technically you can, but it will change the appearance and feel of the boot. We'd recommend using Meindl's Conditioner and Proofer instead; this will do the same job but is more suitable for Nubuck. We're unfortunately out of stock of this at the moment, but if you click the 'notify' button via the link below, you'll get an email when it's back in stock. Kind regards, Harry. www.trekitt.co.uk/8834/products/meindl-conditioner-and-proofer.aspx
Do I need to clean leather boots after every walk? I've just got back from a walk and they're just wet? They've been proofed with leder gris but do I need to dry them with a cloth or let them dry naturally
I personally don't. As a general rule I just clean mine when they're covered in so much mud that I wouldn't want them in the house. It is a good idea to rinse them off if you've been in farmland though, as the acidic nature of the soil can ruin leather. Harry
I'm afraid once a Gore-Tex boot is leaking all the way through, it's game over. These products only add the water-resistant barrier back to the outer of the boot. If the boot is leaking it'll be the membrane inside the boot which has failed, which unfortunately can't be repaired. I'd recommend checking what the warranty is on the boots and go from there. Kind regards, Harry.
@@trekitt Thanks for your reply and advice. I suspected the membrane had been compromised. However, I did contact Merrell online chat and ask is the membrane was shot but their answer was "not necessarily", but they didn't elaborate. They said to treat the boots with Nikwax (not any other product), so I will give that a go as the boots still look in good condition. They are several years old however but have only seen use 7 or 8 times a year at best on gentle terrain, so it is very disappointing to have them fail. I will treat them but take your point that it may only a partial fix. TBH I've had very little luck with GoreTex products over the years. I've had 2 quite expensive Berghaus GoreTex jackets fail, one leaving me with wet shoulders the very first time used in a heavy downpour. Pair of GoreTex walking shoes have all leaked after not much use too. The Jackets were fixed by regular reproofing, but despite the comfort of fabric boots, I'm beginning to doubt the claims of GoreTex and may have to try and find a very comfortable pair of leather boots next or just accept wet feet.
@@johnbirch6072 Occasionally, topping the water repellent coating up with the likes of Nikwax or Grangers can fix the issue as the membrane may not be leaking, it may be the build up of sweat due to the outer soaking up water. By all means give this a go, but if all else fails we offer a free boot-fitting service if you live nearby and need a new pair. Harry.
@@trekitt Just watched your video filling the boots with water to test the membrane so I'll check that before trying reproofing them with Nikwax. I really appreciate the informative and well-done videos. Unfortunately, I'm in Yorkshire so not close by, but should I need a new pair and be in the area you may just get another customer at some time.
The inner of most boots will be fabric, but the exterior of the boot in this video is just leather and can be treated with Meindl's care products. I'll pop a link below to all of our boots - in here you'll find a few leather options by the likes of Meindl, Scarpa and AKU. Kind regards, Harry. www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/boots
Does anyone have any thoughts on the use of Dubbin for proofing and conditioning? Does anyone think that the use of Gore Tex makes it difficult to find the right size of boot? I tried on a pair of Scarpa Rangers size 8. Too tight. I tried a size 9. Too lose. The salesman said he had a pair without the Gore Tex in size 8. Perfect fit. He said it seems Gore Tex reduces the size of the boot. Then he showed me a piece of Gore Tex that went into the boots while remarking how thick the stuff was. I bought the boots. I use Dubbin on these boots as well as my Meindl Butans which I can never wear with mid weight socks. I have to wear Bridgedale Light hikers because they are slightly tight. I wonder if that is because of the Gore Tex. Although unrelated to this subject, I would like any opinion on the use not only of Gore Tex, but Vibram soles on everything. It seems you can't look for a high end pair of boots without them all having Gore Tex and vibram soles. I know the right sort of Vibram soles last for many miles. I have done a thousand miles in my Rangers, and the soles are just half worn, but they have no grip in the wet. I have vibram soles on all my footwear, and get into slides just walking up a wet garden path. Imagine a set of smooth stones in a brook that the flow of water has worn down over the years that are covered in green slime. I would have no footing. So please manufacturers. You can give us more choice. You don't have to use vibram soles on everything, and you don't have to put Gore Tex in everything. Another observation is that the only boot I have seen with a proper rambler clay mud shedding sole, is the Brasher/Berghaus Hillmaster, even if it is a Vibram. All the sole designs are too intricate and complicated.. Try getting the mud out with a screwdriver.
Hi David, we typically endorse Nikwax & Grangers care products; these tend to be a little gentler than traditional dubbin and carry out a similar job. Meindl strongly recommend using their own products for their footwear, so we stock those too. In regards to the Gore-Tex dilemma, I've personally never had an issue with the membrane itself; it's only 0.01mm thick, so it would be strange for it to heavily impact the interior space of the boot. Another aspect to consider is your foot will swell during use - for example, we always recommend visiting us for a boot fit after a few hours of being on your feet, as this will have already allowed your feet to swell to the same state they would if you were out walking in your boots. Lastly, Vibram do control a large chunk of the outsole market, but we are seeing more and more brands develop their own sole units (Meindl & Salomon are two good examples!). I suppose it's all about trying to find a balance between durability and grip in our varied UK terrain. Regards, Harry.
Dubbin is a leather conditioner/softener that just happens to have waterproofing qualities, if used excessively will turn leather into mush. Lesser shoe shops often don't carry half sizes,so if you looking for a perfect fit these kind of shops are best avoided. Plus all shoe makers sizes differ slightly. I currently have 11 pairs of shoes 4 pairs size 8, 4 pairs size 8 1/2, 3 pair size 9, with my everyday darn tough sock only my lightwieght running shoes are a smidge tight,with one pair of the 9's having a lil extra room inside.3 are gore tex,2 are own brand waterproofing.2 mids and 2 full height boots. Want grip on wet rocks? get a pair of rock climbing shoes (but the tread will wear out in 20 miles) just the same way soft Formula one tyres will last 9 laps, the medium 24 laps and the hard tyres 46 laps. I dont think you are looking hard enough if you cant find non gore tex/non vibram soles. Recently got a pair of la sportiva,i had the choice of 4 different soles ranging from extra sticky to extra long lasting. But more people will choose based on the colour of the upper not the soles of them particular boots. I wouldnt bother with a screwdriver, just let the mud dry and smack the boot against a wall a few times.
You'd be better off with a product specifically designed for Nubuck such as Nikwax Nubuck and Suede proof. I'll pop a link to it below. Kind regards, Harry. www.trekitt.co.uk/2460/products/nikwax-nubuck-and-suede-proof-125ml.aspx
I've just been using SnoSeal which is a wax that DOES waterproof your leather items 100%. I'm a leatherworker but not a cobbler, but I used SnoSeal on a pair of boots and instantly realized it absolutely outclasses every single top coat I've used for leather. Now all the stuff I make I can toss in a bucket of water and leave it, and it will still be 100% dry when I pull it out and wipe the water droplets off. It makes the leather very UN-breatheable though, but who really cares about that for most stuff like bags or belts.
For bags & belts like you've mentioned it sounds like a great product. There are a few good waterproofing agents out there that we've used-the hard part is finding something with a good balance of breathability and weather resistance.
@@trekitt SnoSeal is designed for shoes, they claim to be the original shoe product. No idea if that's true. I've never felt the need for breathable shoes before but maybe thats my climate, so the stuff is a Godsend for me.
I clean my boots in a similar way but I have a real problem with them smelling after the insides have been wet. Is there anything in this world that can get rid of the stench of hiking boots?!!!?
Try mohair socks. The structure of the fibre doesn't harbour the stinky bacteria like wool or cotton do. Even with an addition of an artificial fibre, amazingly, these socks banish stinkiness forever. I did six days trekking in Canada in summer, without washing/changing them, only airing the boots (Lowa Trekkers, no Goretex) and the socks and they were stink-free. thegoatcompany.co.uk/mohair-socks.html
@@3niknicholson Try leaving cat litter in the boot for 24 hrs it's designed to treat moisture and odour . Works every time, with running shoes and sneakers also.Happy trails
During the winter months encounter Cow pats as well as deep mud while walking my dog around miles daily. As I'm a bit old skool i wash the boot with soapy water and a brush, leave to dry then appl;y shoe polish and dubbing and occasionally put the insoles in a machine , Job done ! All those products used in the video aint cheap why would you spend a fortune on cleaners when generally speaking the Soles will wear a lot faster then the uppers. My beautiful pair of Cat walking boots that are loved polished and dubbed are almost in the same condition to when i bought them 18 months back but the soles have no tread on them. I phoned Timpson's who want £100 for new soles on the boots i paid £85 for.
Hi Michael, although some cleaning/proofing products can be expensive, the majority of our range is relatively cheap. Grangers Waterproofing Wax, for example, (their own version of the traditional dubbin) is £4.75 and generally lasts a good few years of regular use. I'd argue that's pretty good value for money! Gentle soap flakes in plain old water is absolutely fine and great value for money. Harry
@@trekitt Thanks for the swift reply , £4.75 is not bad at all. Any tips on how to replace new Soles? I would hate to throw out my Cats just because the Soles are worn down. I dont mind paying a reasonable amount for a pro job but not £100 as timpsons are charging..
@@trekitt Thanks for the link , thou they are competitive it seems to me unless ones boots hold great sentimental value or you have a top of the range Redwings for example its not feasible to have walking boots resoled .
It's called marketing lol , a bit of soapy water let them dry ,bit of bubbing and use a toothbrush in the nooks and crannies, and buff them off with a shoe brush and your get 5 years out of them if the stitching don't give way first but I don't sing to my boots as they have no ears lol
i saw on your other video that Meindl warranty only applies with their own proprietary cleaning products used. I was hoping to see theirs. aside from that i find all your videos very helpful
Meindl don't produce a cleaner; it's only the aftercare products which apply to the warranty. Cleaning the boots with Nikwax Cleaning Gel is absolutely fine, but Meindl recommend that you use their Sportwax, Wetproof, etc, to protect and care for the boots.
JUST A LITTLE TIP. WHEN ALL DONE CLEANING AND CONDITIONING YOUR BOOTS PUT SOME ARMOURALL ON THE RUBBER BUMPER AROUND YOUR BOOTS! PUT 2 OR 3 COATS ON. THE RUBBER WILL ABSORB IT AND PREVENT CRACKING!
@@b-rj1171 I just bought the boots in the video (Bhutan's) and I went for a 15 mile hike yesterday to break them in and get an idea of any issues I have with them. They are definitely my size (no toe banging or heel slippage) but they absolutely battered my shins and ankles. These are my first boots so I'm not used to them, but it is this normal or a symptom of bad fit? Any help would be appreciated
khalil Maybe you have to tie them different. Let the part of your leg (above your ankle) have more space. Tie ‘em all the way up, and then go down to the ankles and tighten them there. It could also be your socks, or indeed wrong size. But most of the time it is just getting used to wear them/ breaking them in. This will take much longer than 15 miles.
They add a water resistant barrier back to the outer of the garment which reduces the amount of moisture that can soak into the outer fabric, therefore increasing breathability.
Use simple cotton cloth to rub the wax on the boot, or your fingers. Also rub them a bit fast to create some heat, that will open the pores of the leather. Avoid the microfiber cloths, because it sucks and removes the wax from the shoe, that's the opposite than what you want.
I clean my boot with a couple drops of dawn in some water .. When they dry i massage in some Bick # 4 is all i do ... One of the biggest mistakes campers and hikers make is sitting their boots next to the camp fire .. Thats a no no
Meindl Sportwax (£4.49) OR Grangers Waterproofing Wax (£5) Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel: £3.38 These are realistically the only products most people will need for their leather boots. Not too expensive.
Am I the only person around that is sick of hearing every sentence uttered by 'young people' prefaced by the word, 'So'? I lasted until 1.53 before I baled on this young woman.
![[ASMR] Everyone Does It Wrong! - How to Clean Red Wings, Thorogood, Thursday Boots](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3cWM7W9vMJ4/mqdefault.jpg)
The boots used in this video! www.trekitt.co.uk/facetresults.aspx?Term=bhutan
LOL i saw a couple of dozens of video's for taking care of leather hiking boots, you are the best informing, and actually showing stuff, while most just talk.
awesome and many thanks. much more useful then the others!
Thank you!
Meindl recommends using Wet Proof spray first and allowing 24 hours drying time before applying Sport Wax.
Thanks a lot for doing this video. It inspired and helped me clean my boots properly on the inside as well for the first time ever.
Glad to hear!
How long is a piece of string? Twice the length from the center point to the other end, of course.
You knows it! Thanks for watching.
Great advice, just to add, if your boots are soaked through from cleaning or use, stuff them with newspaper which will help soak up excess water, leave them over night but as you say dont put them on a radiator, In the morning change the paper once they are dry then you can treat them. If you do use Dubbin put it on and leave it dont buff it up. just apply a light layer all over and let it soak in. This is how I would try and increase water resistance on my old Army issue boots. If your boots dont have removable insoles (luckily most do today) when you store your boots pop a tumble dryer sheet inside them, this helps get rid of any odours
Good tip! Thanks for watching.
Thankyou.
Just bought nearly new Austrian Para boots.
I do a lot of wild camping and walking all year round.
Especially on Dartmoor a few miles from me.
So a fair amount of us in wet weather.
I've been using surplus boots since I first bought my latt pair 7 years ago, wearing them outside nearly everyday for long winters and my sea fishing.
This is a great pair of boots and being ex military, I I only used good shoe polish on the last pair and polished them two or three times a week Kiwi or Cherryblossom black polish, buull the toe caps and working it into creases and arch.
I'm afraid I did so much muddy gardening for friends and neighbours that I sometimes left them covered in clay and earth for a few days.
They eventually started showing the effects of rot in the arches and cracks where my toes bent.
They have not gone right through, so are still waterproof, and so comfortable, i was with heavy heart They have been replaced by a younger ,better looking model.
Do not despair however,
I have a great pair of working boots for my voluntary work.
Oh , I'm 62 ,my doctor stopped me working!!!
I learned just what I needed to know today.
It was very informative and used layman's (layperson?) language that was consise and brilliantly produced and demonstrated.
Happy Hiking folks.
Timeline:
1:01 How often should you clean your boots? & Products
3:01 Cleaning the outside
4:59 Cleaning the inside
7:31 Conditioning & re-coating
Thanks for watching.
What's the name of boots
I really enjoyed these two videos. I've seen many others talking about cleaning and re-proofing but yours is the first I've seen that looks as testing a pair of boots for leaks. I hope you might do a detailed video on reproofing a waterproof jacket and trousers... ;-) Thanks for sharing.
We'll add it to the list!
@@trekitt Thank you, I'm pleased to hear it. :-)
This is why I've opted for shell boots with no membrane. It's gonna be one of the first things to go out anyways so I'd much rather have some quality leather boots that will be practically waterproof if cared for properly.
On another side note, I really wish I lived in the UK, would love to support Trekitt.
If you're happy to keep up the maintenance, classic leather boots are a brilliant investment. We do ship to most of Europe if that helps! Our website contains all of the products that we film and publish on UA-cam. www.trekitt.co.uk/
@@trekitt I'm aware, you ship to mine as well. But it's the customs that make it an unfeasible option. Anything over £35 (including shipping) gets taxed an additional 25-35% to protect local businesses.
are you finding boots that aren't made to be waterproof but still have tongues that are attached all the way to the top? Otherwise, it won't be water resistant even as high your ankles. In general, I refuse to buy shoes that aren't waterproof. I really like the convenience of walking through winter slush, stepping through puddles on the sidewalk, walking across wet grass, ..whatever.
@ 9:35 could you clarify what was said about doing it just before needing the boots? Does the wax weaken/etc overtime even when not used?
I was intending on getting this chore done now in summer and use my all-leather boots in the winter
It's best to treat the boots the day before to allow time for the product to effectively penetrate the fabric. I'm not sure whether wax weakens when left alone for a few months to be honest. Give it a go and let us know! Harry
t depends very much on the quality and thickness of the leather used for the boots. Zamberlan or Diotto for instance use pre oiled thick leather for their boots...
Most important is how many stiching and seems compose the upper part of the boot... the less the better.
The internal membrane also helps to improve water repellency
or even seams!! :-)
Please,Are Zampberlan Vioz GTZ beatter than the Hanwag Tatra II ? Which one is better overall? (I can't try them out) thanks in advance
@@greekveteran2715 Definitely Zamberlan
@@greekveteran2715 your big issue with both boots will be fit. Both brands make great boots and Zamberlan Italian made boots are some of the best on the market. The quality of the workmanship is impressive. But.. if they don't suit your feet then they're not the boots for you. Zamberlan length and width sizing can be tricky. A friend owns an outdoor gear store and he gets more returns from online orders for Zamberlan than say Meindl. Not because they're bad boots but because the customer didn't know their size in that model or whether to order standard or wide fit. Meindl seems to fit a lot of Irish & UK feet as they use a last (the foot model used to make boots) which is medium to wide and doesn't have a very pointed assymetric toe box. Zamberlan are more accommodating than say La Sportiva which make some quite narrow footwear. The more technical the fit, the trickier it is to find a shoe that fits well.
It's a bad idea to go more than a half size up to accommodate foot width if you're losing precision. That's a sign that boot and brand doesn't work for you. My friend says it's like a revelation when someone who has been routinely buying a brand that doesn't fit their feet well moves to something better and more comfortable following a proper boot fitting. An awful lot of money is wasted by people buying shoe and boot brands that don't fit them optimally and then convincing themselves a boot will "break in"
@@sdemosi You should have said that a year ago! I did the mistake you describe and ordered the Hanwag TatraII a size up!! I did that because I was reading on comments and reviews, that they come a size narrower than normal and I got kind of thick feet!!
First 2 times I used them, seemed I did right! However, after some breaking in, my mistake showed up.. I ordered a pair of thicker insoles, because the factory ones, are not up to the performance I was expecting from Hanwag. They come too thin without any cushion at all! The insoles, and a pair of thick wool socks, looked like they fixed my mistake, but you are 100% right, because I feel that the boots are longer than they should have been. At least, I can use them for short walks in the winter, but I wouldn't use them , for a long hike!!
My mistake was big, because I neither have a store nearby, to go and try a proper pair, nor I have the money, to order another one...
Happy new Year!!
PS, remind that to others too, you might save people from a lot of trouble! I was just unlucky..
Hey! Loved the video, I just have one question.
What do you recommend doing with sandy boots? I was hiking a day or two ago, and at the end we had to cross a pretty well submerged sand spit. We took off our gators and footwear, but sand is sand and it managed to get its way inside my boots.
I've cleaned the outside, but the sand is quite stubborn. Have you any tips?
The process will largely be the same for the outer (stiff brush & water), however for the insides I'd also give them a vacuum to remove the stuck sand. It'll also make it easier to remove the footbed and clean that separately. I hope that helps! Harry.
@@trekitt Thanks Harry!
Terrific, thank you. I'd like a video on Dubbin, what it is, what it does and the comparison with normal polish.
Dubbin is a bit outdated these days and most brands don't recommend it. Same applies to a polish for outdoor gear. This is what we generally recommend for most leather boots: www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-g-wax__36111
@@trekitt Thank you. That's very much appreciated.
I've bought the Meindl Merans and have also bought the sports wax and conditioner and proofing spray. Just wondering what order to apply them in? Thanks and great video.
For traditional leather boots you just need Sportwax. Conditioner & Proofer is mainly for nubuck/suede.
Nice video...regarding the boots...which model is this?
Meindl Bhutan! Harry
Good video, well delivered and good narrative.
What would you recommend for Zamberlan 996 Vioz gets leather boots?
To clean: www.trekitt.co.uk/2459/products/nikwax-footwear-cleaning-gel-125ml.aspx
To condition: www.trekitt.co.uk/8842/products/nikwax-conditioner-for-leather-125ml.aspx
To reproof (add the DWR back to the upper): www.trekitt.co.uk/2457/products/nikwax-fabric-and-leather-proof-125ml.aspx
After cleaning the inside with gel, the cleaninggel stays in there during drying?
It's best to rinse with cold water after using the cleaning gel, even on the inside. Kind regards, Harry.
should you seal your boots when you get them to help them stay new or should you wait for the water repellent to go go before treating them.. I got some addidas terrex r2 mid swift gtx from yourself. what treatment and cleaning kit would you recommend for them.
It largely depends on the manufacturer; Meindl, for example, recommend treating their footwear before use, however in your case the Adidas' are good to go from the box. Just give them a top-up once the DWR begins to break down. Kind regards, Harry.
Thanks! I didn’t know i could do all that to a pair of boots. And can you tell me the type of cleaner you used please? Thanks
Every day is a school day! We recommend the following cleaning products:
www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/nikwax-footwear-cleaning-gel-125ml__2459
www.trekitt.co.uk/clothing/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-footwear-and-gear-cleaner-275ml__39997
www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/grangers-footwear-care-kit__36115
Thanks for the great video. One question - should meindl sport wax be applied to wet or dry leather? It looks like you apply it to wet in the video, but the sport wax container I have doesn't make any mention of this. Thanks! :)
As long as the leather isn't completely waterlogged it is fine to apply to damp boots, but equally fine to apply to dry ones. We sometimes find a slightly damp boot will take the care product a little easier than one that's completely dry.
@@trekitt Thank you so much!
nicely explained and shot video, thank you!
You're very welcome, thanks for watching. Paul.
Be grateful if you could indicate whether Rab will be looking to use their TILT tech. in Rab’s other ranges of down sleeping bags & jackets in the future?
Best regards.
The TILT liner that Rab use is quite an expensive add-in to their products at the moment, which is why for the most part you see it on their high-end down jackets and down/synthetic sleeping bags. That's not to say that it won't see a wider rollout in the future, but for now it looks like Rab are keeping it for a smaller collection of their kit.
Appreciate you taking the time to respond to my query.
Useful advice & tips on maintaining your boots.
Dried boots out thoroughly after i last wore them out in monsoon-like conditions & brushed, cleaned & reproofed them. But each time i’ve wore them since they develop a mouldy smell. Any advice or tips for mountain/walking GTX boots that have started to smell funky inside?
Regards.
@babursherazi Sounds like a more thorough approach is required after a potential boggy encounter. The inner lining of your boots can also benefit from a clean every now and then too which will help with the smell. Fill your boots with lukewarm water after removing the insoles, you can give those a bit of a scrub separately, and allow to soak for a while. Pour out the water and repeat to get rid of the worst of it, then using a footwear safe cleaner on the inside, like the Nikwax Hannah used in this video, give the inside a good scrub to clean the liner. Once you've given them a good going over and a final rinse you can leave them to dry naturally, or stuff with newspaper or Drysure boot dryers to help with the drying process. They should smell significantly fresher after this! Just make sure you give them ample time to dry before using them again.
I presume the Drysure boot driers are more effective than balls of paper or silica gel sachets?
Would you see any value in using a light spritz of Odour Eaters/Dr Scholl-type anti-fungal sprays on the liner & insole after cleaning & drying?
Much obliged.
@@bob-a-job The Drysure boot dryers are a great reusable option for drying footwear and minimising odours. They're silica gel packaged into a more convenient shape for using in boots, but silica gel or newspaper balls will also work just fine.
You can use anti-fungal or odour eliminating sprays on the inners of your boots if you choose to, it will help, just don't go overboard with the amount used!
Thanks, excellent guide.
Thank you!
Thanks for a very useful video. Are the boots featured in the video leather or nubuck? I have very similar looking meindl boots in nubuck so have always assumed that I shouldn’t use wax. Is that a wrong assumption?
Hi Patrick, they're a waxed nubuck leather. Wax is absolutely fine, but just be aware it'll change their appearance slightly. Harry
@@trekitt Thanks. I will try that.
If the interior of the boot is leather, do you apply leather treatment after cleaning the interior?
The wetting and drying due to the cleaning is ok?
You can apply a small amount of leather treatment to the inners, but the inners take care of themselves a little easier in a leather lined boot, can be a bit gross to think about, but our sweat and skin oils will usually be enough to keep the leather in good condition on the inside without the addition of leather treatment. Think about a leather wallet or belt, very rare that you'd have to treat them, they're in constant contact with us and that's what keeps them in good condition.
Wetting and drying due to cleaning is absolutely fine and won't damage the leather.
Hello! Great video. I have a little question. Do you think it is ok to use the nikwax fabric and leather proof on nubuck leather?
Yup, it'll work. Nikwax do have a nubuck & suede product though: www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/washing-water-repellency-care/nikwax-nubuck-and-suede-proof-125ml__2460
@@trekitt Thank you for the quick response! I really appreciate it. Your videos have been extremely helpful to me and I highly reccomend them.
Excellent advice. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
beeswax for waterproofing
You are thinking along my lines. I have posted a reply to this video.
i manage to break off the sponge every time
Use one of those washing-up sponges with the coarse surface on one side as a replacement
Can I wear leather boots for bushcraft? I have altberg defenders and will be making outdoor fires quite a bit. Will it be bad sitting by the fire with my leather boots on? Will it damage them?
Don't get too close otherwise you could melt the glue, but theoretically most boots should be okay from a safe distance. Harry
Nice video. Do you apply sportswax on the softer nubuck leather (tongue gusset and ankle area)?
Hi Benjamin, the Sportswax will work on all leather components to keep them supple and protected. Paul.
@@trekitt hi! Is it necessary to wax suede/nubuck GTX hiking boots? Do you need to nourish the leather like smooth leather? Or is a suede waterrepellt treatment like nikwaxs' enough?
Wouldn't it be OK if I use just the regular soap added water to wash my boots?
We would always recommend dedicated footwear care products for your outdoor boots.
Why would you have to push the sponge in to break the seal if you "already had one open"?
The plunger reseals each time so the product doesn't leak out. You press the plunger,it breaks the seal again,and it charges the foam applicator pad with product.
So you add 1 inch of water inside and let it air dry afterward?
Draining any excess water and then leaving to air dry is optimal. You can stuff with newspaper (changing it out regularly) to help with the drying process, but leaving them to dry naturally is what we're looking for to prolong the lifespan of the boots and avoid forcing them dry.
Hi, I was wondering you mentioned never to force dry the boots I’ve got a peet boot dryer that is amazing. Would you say this could be damaging?
I've not personally used one and I'm not sure how hot they get, so I couldn't say for sure. When we say force drying, we typically mean radiators, fires, ovens, hairdryers, etc, where the heat could physically damage the leather. Harry
My son received Helly Hansen boots last year and wore them through the winter, and I must admit I had no knowledge of cleaning/caring... They're soaking through this year. If I perform this cleaning/caring, will they still be okay?
Are they leather boots that require wax to stay waterproof? Or do they have a small label with Helly-Tech (or similar) on?
Does anyone use shoe trees for their hiking boots and do you find it useful?
What if the boots are really sticky/greasy after say ~12h after applying the wax? Would you say too much wax was applied? Should one then "buff" them up?
It's hard to say without looking at them, but yes, you may have applied too much in one go. It's best to apply lots of thin layers if possible. Just go out for a walk and the excess will wash off. Harry
Great video, really helpful and clear and I'll make some adjustments to how I clean my boots.. I didn't realise just how important cleaning the inside was... now I know!
I do around 60 miles a week in my Meindel boots (bought from Trekitt) - I have two pairs; one on and one off drying / being cleaned.
HI, thanks for your comments and that's a genius idea with the 2 pairs of boots!
Good video on this subject, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
The wax is waterproofing so you could skip the leather/fabric proofing step.
Hi can I use the meindl sports wax on nubuck boots??? I have the meindl vakuum boots... Thank you
Technically you can, but it will change the appearance and feel of the boot. We'd recommend using Meindl's Conditioner and Proofer instead; this will do the same job but is more suitable for Nubuck. We're unfortunately out of stock of this at the moment, but if you click the 'notify' button via the link below, you'll get an email when it's back in stock. Kind regards, Harry.
www.trekitt.co.uk/8834/products/meindl-conditioner-and-proofer.aspx
@@trekitt thank you much appreciated
I brushed off our boots before waxing as there was little or no mud, is this okay to do or do you have to wash every time?
Hi Rory, provided the boots are clean it's OK to skip a thorough wash and go straight to wax.
Do I need to clean leather boots after every walk? I've just got back from a walk and they're just wet? They've been proofed with leder gris but do I need to dry them with a cloth or let them dry naturally
I personally don't. As a general rule I just clean mine when they're covered in so much mud that I wouldn't want them in the house. It is a good idea to rinse them off if you've been in farmland though, as the acidic nature of the soil can ruin leather. Harry
@@trekitt thanks so much for the detailed and quick reply ! 😊
Does someone know what boots are shown in the video?
Meindl Bhutan: www.trekitt.co.uk/facetresults.aspx?Term=bhutan
My Merrell Gore-tex boots are (disappointingly) no longer waterproof. Would you suggest using these products re-proofing them?
I'm afraid once a Gore-Tex boot is leaking all the way through, it's game over. These products only add the water-resistant barrier back to the outer of the boot. If the boot is leaking it'll be the membrane inside the boot which has failed, which unfortunately can't be repaired. I'd recommend checking what the warranty is on the boots and go from there. Kind regards, Harry.
@@trekitt Thanks for your reply and advice. I suspected the membrane had been compromised. However, I did contact Merrell online chat and ask is the membrane was shot but their answer was "not necessarily", but they didn't elaborate. They said to treat the boots with Nikwax (not any other product), so I will give that a go as the boots still look in good condition. They are several years old however but have only seen use 7 or 8 times a year at best on gentle terrain, so it is very disappointing to have them fail. I will treat them but take your point that it may only a partial fix. TBH I've had very little luck with GoreTex products over the years. I've had 2 quite expensive Berghaus GoreTex jackets fail, one leaving me with wet shoulders the very first time used in a heavy downpour. Pair of GoreTex walking shoes have all leaked after not much use too. The Jackets were fixed by regular reproofing, but despite the comfort of fabric boots, I'm beginning to doubt the claims of GoreTex and may have to try and find a very comfortable pair of leather boots next or just accept wet feet.
@@johnbirch6072 Occasionally, topping the water repellent coating up with the likes of Nikwax or Grangers can fix the issue as the membrane may not be leaking, it may be the build up of sweat due to the outer soaking up water. By all means give this a go, but if all else fails we offer a free boot-fitting service if you live nearby and need a new pair. Harry.
@@trekitt Just watched your video filling the boots with water to test the membrane so I'll check that before trying reproofing them with Nikwax. I really appreciate the informative and well-done videos. Unfortunately, I'm in Yorkshire so not close by, but should I need a new pair and be in the area you may just get another customer at some time.
Is it possible to get a walking boot only made of leather as I actually enjoy dubbing and treating my footwear
The inner of most boots will be fabric, but the exterior of the boot in this video is just leather and can be treated with Meindl's care products. I'll pop a link below to all of our boots - in here you'll find a few leather options by the likes of Meindl, Scarpa and AKU. Kind regards, Harry.
www.trekitt.co.uk/footwear/boots
Does anyone have any thoughts on the use of Dubbin for proofing and conditioning? Does anyone think that the use of Gore Tex makes it difficult to find the right size of boot?
I tried on a pair of Scarpa Rangers size 8. Too tight. I tried a size 9. Too lose. The salesman said he had a pair without the Gore Tex in size 8. Perfect fit. He said it seems Gore Tex reduces the size of the boot. Then he showed me a piece of Gore Tex that went into the boots while remarking how thick the stuff was.
I bought the boots. I use Dubbin on these boots as well as my Meindl Butans which I can never wear with mid weight socks. I have to wear Bridgedale Light hikers because they are slightly tight. I wonder if that is because of the Gore Tex.
Although unrelated to this subject, I would like any opinion on the use not only of Gore Tex, but Vibram soles on everything. It seems you can't look for a high end pair of boots without them all having Gore Tex and vibram soles. I know the right sort of Vibram soles last for many miles. I have done a thousand miles in my Rangers, and the soles are just half worn, but they have no grip in the wet. I have vibram soles on all my footwear, and get into slides just walking up a wet garden path. Imagine a set of smooth stones in a brook that the flow of water has worn down over the years that are covered in green slime. I would have no footing.
So please manufacturers. You can give us more choice. You don't have to use vibram soles on everything, and you don't have to put Gore Tex in everything. Another observation is that the only boot I have seen with a proper rambler clay mud shedding sole, is the Brasher/Berghaus Hillmaster, even if it is a Vibram. All the sole designs are too intricate and complicated.. Try getting the mud out with a screwdriver.
Hi David, we typically endorse Nikwax & Grangers care products; these tend to be a little gentler than traditional dubbin and carry out a similar job. Meindl strongly recommend using their own products for their footwear, so we stock those too. In regards to the Gore-Tex dilemma, I've personally never had an issue with the membrane itself; it's only 0.01mm thick, so it would be strange for it to heavily impact the interior space of the boot. Another aspect to consider is your foot will swell during use - for example, we always recommend visiting us for a boot fit after a few hours of being on your feet, as this will have already allowed your feet to swell to the same state they would if you were out walking in your boots. Lastly, Vibram do control a large chunk of the outsole market, but we are seeing more and more brands develop their own sole units (Meindl & Salomon are two good examples!). I suppose it's all about trying to find a balance between durability and grip in our varied UK terrain. Regards, Harry.
For what it’s worth, my Zamberlan’s saved me from falling in the slippery ice several times. It’s the popular model that the local shop carries.
Dubbin is a leather conditioner/softener that just happens to have waterproofing qualities, if used excessively will turn leather into mush.
Lesser shoe shops often don't carry half sizes,so if you looking for a perfect fit these kind of shops are best avoided. Plus all shoe makers sizes differ slightly. I currently have 11 pairs of shoes 4 pairs size 8, 4 pairs size 8 1/2, 3 pair size 9, with my everyday darn tough sock only my lightwieght running shoes are a smidge tight,with one pair of the 9's having a lil extra room inside.3 are gore tex,2 are own brand waterproofing.2 mids and 2 full height boots.
Want grip on wet rocks? get a pair of rock climbing shoes (but the tread will wear out in 20 miles) just the same way soft Formula one tyres will last 9 laps, the medium 24 laps and the hard tyres 46 laps.
I dont think you are looking hard enough if you cant find non gore tex/non vibram soles. Recently got a pair of la sportiva,i had the choice of 4 different soles ranging from extra sticky to extra long lasting. But more people will choose based on the colour of the upper not the soles of them particular boots.
I wouldnt bother with a screwdriver, just let the mud dry and smack the boot against a wall a few times.
Would you recommend wax for nubuck leather?
You'd be better off with a product specifically designed for Nubuck such as Nikwax Nubuck and Suede proof. I'll pop a link to it below. Kind regards, Harry.
www.trekitt.co.uk/2460/products/nikwax-nubuck-and-suede-proof-125ml.aspx
It'll make the nubuck look like smooth leather... Makes the boots much more easier to look after.. But you'll lose the nubuck look....
I've just been using SnoSeal which is a wax that DOES waterproof your leather items 100%. I'm a leatherworker but not a cobbler, but I used SnoSeal on a pair of boots and instantly realized it absolutely outclasses every single top coat I've used for leather. Now all the stuff I make I can toss in a bucket of water and leave it, and it will still be 100% dry when I pull it out and wipe the water droplets off. It makes the leather very UN-breatheable though, but who really cares about that for most stuff like bags or belts.
For bags & belts like you've mentioned it sounds like a great product. There are a few good waterproofing agents out there that we've used-the hard part is finding something with a good balance of breathability and weather resistance.
@@trekitt SnoSeal is designed for shoes, they claim to be the original shoe product. No idea if that's true. I've never felt the need for breathable shoes before but maybe thats my climate, so the stuff is a Godsend for me.
Thanks Hanna , if I ever buy any boots I now know how to clean them !
I just use my fingers to apply the paste and rub it in.
That's a great tip as the warmth from your fingers helps to soften the wax. Thanks for watching.
I think that's the best way.
I tried it on my tongue it tastes awful ???
At least it would have been clean! Thanks for watching.
I don't waterproof mine. I'd prefer it to get soaked and drain and dry faster than keep water in when I'm in water past my boots.
Which boots do you own?
Fair point, but that leather will still need conditioning to keep it soft and supple. Thanks for watching.
It says nothing about maintaining nubuck leather boots. Especially the Meindl M1 and M2 army boots.
I clean my boots in a similar way but I have a real problem with them smelling after the insides have been wet. Is there anything in this world that can get rid of the stench of hiking boots?!!!?
This should do the job! www.trekitt.co.uk/36114/products/grangers-odour-eliminator.aspx
Try mohair socks. The structure of the fibre doesn't harbour the stinky bacteria like wool or cotton do. Even with an addition of an artificial fibre, amazingly, these socks banish stinkiness forever. I did six days trekking in Canada in summer, without washing/changing them, only airing the boots (Lowa Trekkers, no Goretex) and the socks and they were stink-free. thegoatcompany.co.uk/mohair-socks.html
@@3niknicholson Try leaving cat litter in the boot for 24 hrs it's designed to treat moisture and odour . Works every time, with running shoes and sneakers also.Happy trails
During the winter months encounter Cow pats as well as deep mud while walking my dog around miles daily.
As I'm a bit old skool i wash the boot with soapy water and a brush, leave to dry then appl;y shoe polish and dubbing and occasionally put the insoles in a machine , Job done !
All those products used in the video aint cheap why would you spend a fortune on cleaners when generally speaking the Soles will wear a lot faster then the uppers.
My beautiful pair of Cat walking boots that are loved polished and dubbed are almost in the same condition to when i bought them 18 months back but the soles have no tread on them.
I phoned Timpson's who want £100 for new soles on the boots i paid £85 for.
Hi Michael, although some cleaning/proofing products can be expensive, the majority of our range is relatively cheap. Grangers Waterproofing Wax, for example, (their own version of the traditional dubbin) is £4.75 and generally lasts a good few years of regular use. I'd argue that's pretty good value for money! Gentle soap flakes in plain old water is absolutely fine and great value for money. Harry
@@trekitt Thanks for the swift reply , £4.75 is not bad at all.
Any tips on how to replace new Soles? I would hate to throw out my Cats just because the Soles are worn down.
I dont mind paying a reasonable amount for a pro job but not £100 as timpsons are charging..
@@michaelnedsmar9106 We generally recommend Lancashire Sports Repairs - their contact info should be on their website. lancashiresportsrepairs.co.uk/
@@trekitt Thanks for the link , thou they are competitive it seems to me unless ones boots hold great sentimental value or you have a top of the range Redwings for example its not feasible to have walking boots resoled .
It's called marketing lol , a bit of soapy water let them dry ,bit of bubbing and use a toothbrush in the nooks and crannies, and buff them off with a shoe brush and your get 5 years out of them if the stitching don't give way first but I don't sing to my boots as they have no ears lol
i saw on your other video that Meindl warranty only applies with their own proprietary cleaning products used. I was hoping to see theirs.
aside from that i find all your videos very helpful
Meindl don't produce a cleaner; it's only the aftercare products which apply to the warranty. Cleaning the boots with Nikwax Cleaning Gel is absolutely fine, but Meindl recommend that you use their Sportwax, Wetproof, etc, to protect and care for the boots.
@@trekitt Thank you. My mistake. I did see the Meindl wax appear later in the video.
That was short and sweet
Great video and gorgeous presenter!
Glad you liked the video, thanks for watching.
JUST A LITTLE TIP. WHEN ALL DONE CLEANING AND CONDITIONING YOUR BOOTS PUT SOME ARMOURALL ON THE RUBBER BUMPER AROUND YOUR BOOTS! PUT 2 OR 3 COATS ON. THE RUBBER WILL ABSORB IT AND PREVENT CRACKING!
Interesting tip, I've not heard this before!
@@trekitt YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE RUBBER ABSORB IT TO LET YOU KNOW HOW DRY IT IS!
I walked 2000 miles last year. I washed/treated them, they still split lol.
i don't think any sort of shoe is going to be in perfect shape after walking 2000 miles in them. Did you walk the PCT or something?
@@Labroidas just walking a minimum of 30 miles each weekend(plus some midweek) in our local area.
Buy Meindl. I walked in total more than 10.000 miles on them, and they are still in awesome shape.
@@b-rj1171 I just bought the boots in the video (Bhutan's) and I went for a 15 mile hike yesterday to break them in and get an idea of any issues I have with them. They are definitely my size (no toe banging or heel slippage) but they absolutely battered my shins and ankles. These are my first boots so I'm not used to them, but it is this normal or a symptom of bad fit? Any help would be appreciated
khalil Maybe you have to tie them different. Let the part of your leg (above your ankle) have more space.
Tie ‘em all the way up, and then go down to the ankles and tighten them there.
It could also be your socks, or indeed wrong size.
But most of the time it is just getting used to wear them/ breaking them in. This will take much longer than 15 miles.
i did not know Nikwax and Grangers increase breathability? i thought they simply add a breathable water repellent.
They add a water resistant barrier back to the outer of the garment which reduces the amount of moisture that can soak into the outer fabric, therefore increasing breathability.
The ink from newspaper can block the pores aswell, best to let airdry only!
Good point!
It would be better to clean the inside of the boot first, don't you think?
For what reason? Harry
Interesting video.🇺🇸
You should use a brush to apply the wax....and maybe use a hair dryer on warm setting to really melt the wax into the leather....
Hi Bob, those are good tips, thanks for watching. Paul.
Use simple cotton cloth to rub the wax on the boot, or your fingers. Also rub them a bit fast to create some heat, that will open the pores of the leather. Avoid the microfiber cloths, because it sucks and removes the wax from the shoe, that's the opposite than what you want.
Good tips - makes sense. Harry
I really love the "content" ;)
Thanks for watching.
Lets get that "excess" mud out!
I clean my boot with a couple drops of dawn in some water .. When they dry i massage in some Bick # 4
is all i do ... One of the biggest mistakes campers and hikers make is sitting their boots
next to the camp fire .. Thats a no no
Good tips Brad. Thanks for watching.
Dib Dib dib!
Put on a nitrile glove and hand work it in to the leather. But make sure that you dip it in the dirty water first 😏 🤪
Ha!Ha! Peace
Wait why would one want to clean one's boots ???😉
Because cleanliness is next to Godliness! Thanks for watching.
When the cleaning products cost more than the boots....
Meindl Sportwax (£4.49) OR Grangers Waterproofing Wax (£5)
Nikwax Footwear Cleaning Gel: £3.38
These are realistically the only products most people will need for their leather boots. Not too expensive.
Waterproofing works when done correctly until some water gets on the boots. I.e. waste of time.
It's more about keeping the leather in good condition, rather than creating an impervious waterproof layer. Thanks for watching.
Unashamed Advertising !
Thanks for watching, it's what we do; advertise our products.
Am I the only person around that is sick of hearing every sentence uttered by 'young people' prefaced by the word, 'So'? I lasted until 1.53 before I baled on this young woman.
That's a shame, as despite the so's, there is a lot of useful info in there. Harry
I didn’t notice it until I read this comment and now I hate it.
But I watched the whole video. Great info.
Hi folks please never ever ever put wax or dubbin onto your boots as it suffocates the leather.
Dubbin rots the stitching too
Good advice!