Thanks, Ron you motivated me to get to work on my large train layout 30‘ x 20‘ and the theme is in Germany so there’s mountains and rivers and I’ve decided to follow your instruction and use the plaster and it was interesting and informative about the different types of plaster and Your protocols and which ones you utilize first and then the sequence of the different plasters. Thank you for the motivation to get to work. I’m sure I’ll be watching this several times as a refresher. Thank you, Ron.R🎉
At this point I can't leave a written response to every comment--there are just too many. Indonesia them all, though, and a ❤ is one way to let people know I did. Thanks.
Although I had watched this long ago, and several times since, I Came back to watch stuff I have saved, as I am stalled on my own layout. Needed some inspiration and a "kick in the *&^*" lol. This did the trick and helped me in wanting to get going on Scenery, my favorite area of model railroading! Great old school stuff :) This will save lots of people money on their own layouts. Its good to go back to the origins of what we do as it still applies today in so many ways, yet seems to be forgetton through time. Back in the day, I myself used newspaper wadded up and then old window screening that was left in the garage from repairs as a base. Then used the plaster soaked paper towels on top of that. I also agree with the "shop towels" rather than the reg paper towels. They work so much better it seems. Great Video as always.
Ron, I recently constructed a museum grade n scale layout. I terra formed the top of the homosote with bits and cutoffs of extruded foam to get the rough shaes. Then I coverd the area with low loft poly fill. The base was coated first in pva, the cut to fit poly was applied and pinned down on the edges, then I brushed on brown colored paint. This soaked into the poly and mixed with the pva. While wet, the first shaking of earth bround foam was applied to complete the earth base. rock molds are easily hot blued on the poly and blend right into the material. Pieces of poly edging integrate with the next edge seamlessly as well. Looks very realistic Pin carefully and bring the poly right up to adjacent scenery edging for a seamless integration of materials. Trees and such can be easily pinned thru the poly into the foam structures without the need to drill. The weight is about 1/10 that of plaster. Puts down ground terrain very quickly and with hardly any mess. not recommend for cardboard webbing as there is little structureal support to this method so a good under structure is required, like foam cutoffs and such. This this technique almost every scrap of foam is used. Hot knive the foam as needed to get the proper terra formed effect you desire. For water effects, I found that Scenic Express bottles of water effects is outrageously expensive. Best to use a part a/parb b acrylic. Triple hi gloss shellac also gives good results. Bob S - Cleveland
Hi Ron. I worked in a plaster casting factory and we always added plaster to the water. Never water to the plaster. To know why, you need to be familiar with plaster casting in a work environment where no measuring can take place. In short, plaster sprinkled over a water surface sinks in the water but does not react with the water. So that allows crews to make different thicknesses and qualities of plaster. Only when stirred, does the plaster start to react with the water and does it start setting. Keep up the good work, love the channel.
If you have the time to experiment, here are the 3 recipies: container of water. Sprinkle the plaster evenly over the surface and let it sink. If you build it up to just under the water surface: standard casting plaster for figurines and general work. If you build up to the water surface: sculpting plaster with a quicker working time. If you build up to under the water surface at various levels: pouring plaster with much longer working time but of course much more difficult to control. But ideal for roads, lakes, etc. Beware though of the capillary effect on the sides when it dries out.
We are just starting a model train club for our senior living residents. This video is awesome and easy to follow. Look forward to viewing more of your diy videos!!!
Good stuff Ron, thanks for sharing. I also used the cardboard method on my layout, with woodland scenics plaster cloth and sculptamold before painting and adding detail. I started with the woodland scenics but then just googled "plaster cloth" online and found bigger rolls cheaper in bulk for the amount I had to do. I also tried a bit of "plaster of paris" and didn't really like the outcome so I stuck with the original method. Very pleased so far. Steve
I get along with Plaster of Paris for the base pretty well, but I use hydrocal for rock castings. That will be part of the subject of my next modeling video next week. I have used plaster cloth in the past, and I really like how it works, but the shop towels and patching plaster are so inexpensive I can't pass them up.
Ron, I have used the powered color to the plaster and it works great. If for some reason you chip the plaster, the color is there right through. No white spots. Got the color power at a mason supply store.
I have taken to skip raiding for my boards. You'll be amazed at how many builders and homeowners are only too happy to let you take the cut off and surplus foam insulation boards rather than leaving the in the skip to fill the landfill sites. I even managed to get hold of a 2.4m by 0.9m board from one homeowner who helped me load it into the car. The insualtion boards are both very strong and lightweight.
Hi Ron, I really love this technique but I haven't had the opportunity to use it. After watching this video I am looking forward to trying this somewhere on my layout. Looks good even without paint on it! Thanks for sharing!
Nice scenery there, Ron! I've never used plaster soaked shop towels. I use plaster cloth, the same material doctors used to use to set broken bones. Do a search for "Rigid Wrap plaster cloth 5 pounds". About 50 square feet will set you back $16.09 from a couple of big name retailers. That's a lot cheaper than the brand sold at most hobby shops!
That is a LOT cheaper that, say, WS plaster cloth. Cost is why I don't usually use it. I may have to check that out. Thanks for the tip and for watching.
Ron, great video! I'm starting my HO layout using foam/shelving brackets but as I will have some mountains, this was a great primer to consider using plaster/cardboard strips for that area. Thanks again!
I like your benchwork but have an HO layout on a plywood table. I was reading a Q&A you had at some point regarding using wire mesh for scenery construction. The method you use for benchwork is great but, we have a new home with an unfinished basement. When I began setting up the layout I used paper mache, plaster and cardboard. Over the winter I had mice nesting in some of the mountain ranges. I think wire mesh with plaster would have been a better application for me.Just a share for the guy that asked the original question. Of course, as I understand other videos you've posted, you have a built in mouse preventative that likes to wander around your layout. Thanks for all the informative videos. Lots of great ideas.
I'm even more old school for mountains. I use chicken wire rather than cardboard lattice. Instead of paper towels I have gone to the new technique of plaster gauze. I apply the the gauze double thickness and thereby avoid the need to apply a second coat of plaster. I find these techniques save time. The gauze saves a lot of mess. The chicken wire permits me to shape contours much more precisely and with greater detail. Everyone has their favorite techniques.
I missed making my subtle reference to my past in dentistry, dealing with 6-8 different plasters with all of their various properties re contraction, heat production, working time, compatibility with other materials etc.... Ask your dentist to see his lab sometimes. I have a hunch you would find it interesting (once you are out of the chair, everything usually becomes more interesting) ;-).
Love the way you explain your methods. Just retired and want to build a scenic (shelf style)(miniunum wiring and turnouts) railroad inside a high bench that runs along 3 walls. This will be in the N-scale. Work bench on top, train layout underneath, than a couple shelfs for box storage under that. Is this too much usage for a space? Thanks.
Bench and layout will be one. No shelf. Simple layout running inside of the 3 wall bench. The bench will not be used for hammering or sawing but assembling, soldering, etc.
Thanks, Ron for this video. I too am going with the CB latticework. And thanks a million for the Midwest Model Railroad link! I am buying everything from them for my new N scale layout. -- Dr Joe
Hey there Ron, I was watching another channel about how the person made their hills, and they use that light batting that is used for putting between blankets.. have you ever thought of using this, you don't have to use plaster, just glue down the batting in the shape of your hills and everything, paint them and you can start putting your scenery layers on it.
I have seen that too. Noticed that not very many people are using it. I'm not particularly impressed with the way the finished product really looks so no I haven't tried it.
This was a brilliant video just when I needed it most! I've been wondering how best to start my layout so this has been very helpful, Thank you very much Ron!
If I wanted to build a massive full room train landscape what scale does most if the stuff usually come in most??? Trains, cars, buildings, trees etc....
Good Ron, that's great and do try the colors in your plaster, it's a great way to hide the chips that happen in time, &thanks for reminding me about flag day, Jack
I am a painter, and I am sometimes called upon to do a bit of plastering as part of the prep work prior to painting. One tip I was given (and use) to extend the working life of plaster, is to add milk powder to your plaster mix. For the quantity you are using (2 cups) I would add about a 1/4c of milk powder. This will give you an extra 30 - 45 minutes working time before the plaster starts to set up.
Well, it extends the working time, but it also extends the curing time, you may have to give it an extra 12 hours to cure properly, but once cured, the plaster is just as strong as it is without the milk powder.
I had to think a bit about how to respond to this comment. I read it out loud to my wife and she laughed out loud. Dealing with dust on the unfinished sections is easy--an old 3" paint brush and a shop vac. I dust the tops of locomotives and rolling stock periodically with a 1/2" soft paint brush. Otherwise I use the shop vac held a few inches away and disturb dust into the air in the direction of the vac. The truth is the camera covers a multitude of sins--it probably isn't rally as clean as it looks.
Ron, what do you suggest for modules? Where are you buying that Plaster of Paris bag? Thanks! Love the channel!! Could you please show me the link to the video that follows this one? You have a lot of vids and I am overwhelmed. Thank you!
For modules I would go with foam because it is so much lighter. I buy my Plaster of Paris at a local hardware store, or here is a link if you want to have it shipped. amzn.to/2GD9Fus As for the video that follows this one, I'm not sure if you meant the next one I made or if you mean the rock casting video that builds on the base idea. Either way you can go to my channel page, click the videos tab and scroll down to find it, or if you let me know which one you mean I can provide a link.
hi Ron... i have used the crumpled up news paper as my base now that's old school... but for the new area in room 1 i will be using the method you have just posted...i need to figure out how to make a 3ft. section removable ... thanks for sharing... vinny
I'm sure there are a number of ways of making a section removable, but personally that is one area where I would make the case for the extruded foam. I use foam in some places, but not as much as my previous, smaller layout simply due to expense. Good luck with that. I look forward to seeing what you come up with for that removable section.
here's a few things for diy railroad layout construction Find a proven set of plans online Find a mate who wants to build one too so you have another person to help you (I learned these and the reasons they work on Jareks Hobby Club site )
Well done, Ron. I've been looking for such a video to handle the areas between my plywood sub roadbeds. Question: would you use this same technique to fill in the narrow area between your two main line sub roadbeds? Neil
Ron...I like this idea. I will try this technique next time..the current landscape was done by waded paper balls taped into place..covered with plaster cloth.. the problem I found was it was very hollow and airy..and I had a hard time planting trees into anything substantial. The other thing was the paper balls made wonderful homes for critters in the months to come. Since relocating my layout into a very damp environment exposed to the elements except for a metal roof..the scenery has sunk in various places.. not a good long lasting result. Tom
+Overland Transportation System Plaster cloth has advantages and disadvantages. Advantage--ease of use. Disadvantage--it is very thin. Thus the sinking issue and the trouble planting trees. My method is much harder and shouldn't sink unles it gets soaked. Tree planting should be easier, though that is where foam has a real advantage. The big disadvantage to my method is weight, but if it is well supported and not movable that shouldn't be a big deal.
I used cardboard strips as well, but for less mess, I used plaster gauze, dipping it in water which is in a paint pan and draping it onto the web. I do have to add plaster later to cover the gauze. It costs a bit more but I like that method. You can buy plastic gauze on Amazon for much less than the model RR scenery brands.
I used it 36 years ago with j-cloths. Tag line is that it hardens to rock. It does. The problem now is that I can't find it in a lowes like place that no longer exists. Instead, it is like 10* the price in train stores. Great video that is already old but still holding up awesome 😎
Instead of messing with paper towels rolled in your own plaster mix, use plaster cloth. You can find a lot of that stuff at good prices on Amazon. Never use paper mache on large scenery expanses. On a good day, you will have about 2 mins working time. Not close to the working time you will need. Use paper mache in your rock molds. Use hardware store plaster to cover your plaster cloth...if needed. You can buy plaster in bags with long or short setting times. Plaster with a 20 min setting time seems about right. It's a major pain to create your own 1" cardboard strips with any decent length to them. Instead, buy them already made in a large bundle from Micro-Mark. The price is right, and it will save you a large hassle. The cardboard strips do not need to be interlaced to form a solid scenery foundation. If you lay the secondary strips over the primaries and hot glue each intersection, that will be as strong as interlacing. In this case, you would be creating a shell with rib support.
Hey, everyone, voting is open for the IMRROcom Big Build Contest v2. I enterd the contest weeks ago and my videos are posted here. Please go vote. Here is the link. facebook.com/groups/IMRROcomBBCv2
So, as a conversation starter, I am interested to know how some of you make the base for your scenery? Do you use foam exclusively, do what I did here, or something else? Leave me a comment and let us know. For you regular watchers, I'm sorry for getting this video up about 12 hours later than usual. Sometimes life just intervenes. I don't know what happen to the focus on that teaser scene. I was apparently having a blurry day.
Ron's Trains N Things eI used paper, nt happy with that will try your method, looks a lot better like you say foam is to expensive and hard to get in the southwest these days...Jack
Jack O I can imagine it is hard to get. Even here in the midwest I can get 1/2", but 1 1/2" or 2" which used to be readily available now has to be ordered.
There is a guy over here in the UK (can't remember his name at the moment) who uses old Tee Shirts instead of the paper towels and that works very well and of course you get the extra strength from the material.
Ron, I have used everything from chicken wire to cardboard webbing and plaster cloth. My favorite method for large areas is plaster soaked paper towels, (the brown public restroom type work the best IMO) over wadded up plastic grocery sacks filled with wadded up newspapers. You can tape the bags together to make virtually any contour you can imagine. Just curious how much did you spend on that paper-mache material you used in the video. My local Walmart has Sculptamold 3 pound bags for $6.87.
Ron's Trains N Things THAT explains a lot! Just kidding of course. Could be worse, you could be from (shudder) Ohio! Greetings from the land of two peninsulas.
Thanks, Ron you motivated me to get to work on my large train layout 30‘ x 20‘ and the theme is in Germany so there’s mountains and rivers and I’ve decided to follow your instruction and use the plaster and it was interesting and informative about the different types of plaster and Your protocols and which ones you utilize first and then the sequence of the different plasters. Thank you for the motivation to get to work. I’m sure I’ll be watching this several times as a refresher. Thank you, Ron.R🎉
I like your dedication to your viewer with how your still hearting comments and still responding even though the vid is 3 years old
At this point I can't leave a written response to every comment--there are just too many. Indonesia them all, though, and a ❤ is one way to let people know I did. Thanks.
I deeply appreciate and respect your intro🙏🏼🇺🇸🙏🏼
Although I had watched this long ago, and several times since, I Came back to watch stuff I have saved, as I am stalled on my own layout. Needed some inspiration and a "kick in the *&^*" lol. This did the trick and helped me in wanting to get going on Scenery, my favorite area of model railroading! Great old school stuff :) This will save lots of people money on their own layouts. Its good to go back to the origins of what we do as it still applies today in so many ways, yet seems to be forgetton through time. Back in the day, I myself used newspaper wadded up and then old window screening that was left in the garage from repairs as a base. Then used the plaster soaked paper towels on top of that. I also agree with the "shop towels" rather than the reg paper towels. They work so much better it seems. Great Video as always.
Ron,
I recently constructed a museum grade n scale layout. I terra formed the top of the homosote with bits and cutoffs of extruded foam to get the rough shaes. Then I coverd the area with low loft poly fill. The base was coated first in pva, the cut to fit poly was applied and pinned down on the edges, then I brushed on brown colored paint. This soaked into the poly and mixed with the pva. While wet, the first shaking of earth bround foam was applied to complete the earth base. rock molds are easily hot blued on the poly and blend right into the material. Pieces of poly edging integrate with the next edge seamlessly as well. Looks very realistic
Pin carefully and bring the poly right up to adjacent scenery edging for a seamless integration of materials.
Trees and such can be easily pinned thru the poly into the foam structures without the need to drill. The weight is about 1/10 that of plaster. Puts down ground terrain very quickly and with hardly any mess.
not recommend for cardboard webbing as there is little structureal support to this method so a good under structure is required, like foam cutoffs and such. This this technique almost every scrap of foam is used.
Hot knive the foam as needed to get the proper terra formed effect you desire.
For water effects, I found that Scenic Express bottles of water effects is outrageously expensive. Best to use a part a/parb b acrylic. Triple hi gloss shellac also gives good results.
Bob S - Cleveland
Hi Ron. I worked in a plaster casting factory and we always added plaster to the water. Never water to the plaster. To know why, you need to be familiar with plaster casting in a work environment where no measuring can take place. In short, plaster sprinkled over a water surface sinks in the water but does not react with the water. So that allows crews to make different thicknesses and qualities of plaster. Only when stirred, does the plaster start to react with the water and does it start setting. Keep up the good work, love the channel.
Interesting. Thanks for that info.
If you have the time to experiment, here are the 3 recipies: container of water. Sprinkle the plaster evenly over the surface and let it sink. If you build it up to just under the water surface: standard casting plaster for figurines and general work. If you build up to the water surface: sculpting plaster with a quicker working time. If you build up to under the water surface at various levels: pouring plaster with much longer working time but of course much more difficult to control. But ideal for roads, lakes, etc. Beware though of the capillary effect on the sides when it dries out.
I'm in the process of planning out a massive table of wargaming terrain and just found your channel. Great stuff!
You will like the video coming out next Tuesday, May 11, for sure.
We are just starting a model train club for our senior living residents. This video is awesome and easy to follow. Look forward to viewing more of your diy videos!!!
You have a lot of skill and patience sir!
Excellent, and informant video. To the point!
Ron, adding color to your plaster has worked for me so far when I have to plant trees by drilling into the plaster.
Thanks for such a clear and informative post!
Good stuff Ron, thanks for sharing. I also used the cardboard method on my layout, with woodland scenics plaster cloth and sculptamold before painting and adding detail. I started with the woodland scenics but then just googled "plaster cloth" online and found bigger rolls cheaper in bulk for the amount I had to do. I also tried a bit of "plaster of paris" and didn't really like the outcome so I stuck with the original method. Very pleased so far. Steve
I get along with Plaster of Paris for the base pretty well, but I use hydrocal for rock castings. That will be part of the subject of my next modeling video next week. I have used plaster cloth in the past, and I really like how it works, but the shop towels and patching plaster are so inexpensive I can't pass them up.
Ron, I have used the powered color to the plaster and it works great. If for some reason you chip the plaster, the color is there right through. No white spots. Got the color power at a mason supply store.
Yes, I am doing this with plaster and using paint to color Sculptamold now too. Which powder pigment do you use?
I have taken to skip raiding for my boards. You'll be amazed at how many builders and homeowners are only too happy to let you take the cut off and surplus foam insulation boards rather than leaving the in the skip to fill the landfill sites. I even managed to get hold of a 2.4m by 0.9m board from one homeowner who helped me load it into the car. The insualtion boards are both very strong and lightweight.
Great info. Thank you, Ron.
Hi Ron, I really love this technique but I haven't had the opportunity to use it. After watching this video I am looking forward to trying this somewhere on my layout. Looks good even without paint on it! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your comment and thanks for watching.
Very late to the party here but learning so much from you! Thank you for some great tips!
I am new at n scale and I started watching you and tou make good videos
Welcome, Dalton. Thanks for watching. I hope you find some useful, helpful info in my videos. 👍
I really like your tutorials they are very very helpful to me
Nice scenery there, Ron! I've never used plaster soaked shop towels. I use plaster cloth, the same material doctors used to use to set broken bones. Do a search for "Rigid Wrap plaster cloth 5 pounds". About 50 square feet will set you back $16.09 from a couple of big name retailers. That's a lot cheaper than the brand sold at most hobby shops!
That is a LOT cheaper that, say, WS plaster cloth. Cost is why I don't usually use it. I may have to check that out. Thanks for the tip and for watching.
Ron, great video! I'm starting my HO layout using foam/shelving brackets but as I will have some mountains, this was a great primer to consider using plaster/cardboard strips for that area. Thanks again!
+schadowolf My upper deck is on shelf brackets screwed directly into the studs every 16" and they support my plaster mountains just fine.
Nice to know, thanks!
Great video ron.. I've been trying alot of your tips and techniques and have had great results so far.. thanks for the great videos.. cheers
I like your benchwork but have an HO layout on a plywood table. I was reading a Q&A you had at some point regarding using wire mesh for scenery construction. The method you use for benchwork is great but, we have a new home with an unfinished basement. When I began setting up the layout I used paper mache, plaster and cardboard. Over the winter I had mice nesting in some of the mountain ranges. I think wire mesh with plaster would have been a better application for me.Just a share for the guy that asked the original question. Of course, as I understand other videos you've posted, you have a built in mouse preventative that likes to wander around your layout. Thanks for all the informative videos. Lots of great ideas.
I'm even more old school for mountains. I use chicken wire rather than cardboard lattice. Instead of paper towels I have gone to the new technique of plaster gauze. I apply the the gauze double thickness and thereby avoid the need to apply a second coat of plaster. I find these techniques save time. The gauze saves a lot of mess. The chicken wire permits me to shape contours much more precisely and with greater detail. Everyone has their favorite techniques.
+Jerry Smith I think I would like chicken wire, but I don't have it personally available and just have never gone out of my way to buy and try it.
Ron thanks for reminding me about Flag Day. Great video. I'll probably use that technique when I get to that stage.
Be sure to let me know how it turns out.
Ron great video and I love how clean and neat it came out. Peace be with you
+TrashMan2008 Thanks. My wife might argue with the clean part, lol, but that is another conversation.
Thanks Ron, great video as always, but all that plaster stuff seems daunting (BTW, I'm a retired dentist)😉, finally getting to my layout
The plaster takes some time, but it is well worth it in the end.
I missed making my subtle reference to my past in dentistry, dealing with 6-8 different plasters with all of their various properties re contraction, heat production, working time, compatibility with other materials etc....
Ask your dentist to see his lab sometimes.
I have a hunch you would find it interesting (once you are out of the chair, everything usually becomes more interesting) ;-).
@@hansviergever958 I am a dental hygienist -got your plaster joke! Too many impressions and models of arches.
Love the way you explain your methods. Just retired and want to build a scenic (shelf style)(miniunum wiring and turnouts) railroad inside a high bench that runs along 3 walls. This will be in the N-scale. Work bench on top, train layout underneath, than a couple shelfs for box storage under that. Is this too much usage for a space? Thanks.
I'm not sure I understand. You say the layout will be on a high shelf, but the that it will be under your workbench.
Bench and layout will be one. No shelf. Simple layout running inside of the 3 wall bench. The bench will not be used for hammering or sawing but assembling, soldering, etc.
Everything on hold! The wife is looking at houses.
Thanks, Ron for this video. I too am going with the CB latticework. And thanks a million for the Midwest Model Railroad link! I am buying everything from them for my new N scale layout. -- Dr Joe
Great video Ron! Homemade plaster cloth, love it. My brother and I used newsprint into a foam base. I just followed Woodland Scenics advice. -Mark
Hey there Ron, I was watching another channel about how the person made their hills, and they use that light batting that is used for putting between blankets.. have you ever thought of using this, you don't have to use plaster, just glue down the batting in the shape of your hills and everything, paint them and you can start putting your scenery layers on it.
I have seen that too. Noticed that not very many people are using it. I'm not particularly impressed with the way the finished product really looks so no I haven't tried it.
This was a brilliant video just when I needed it most! I've been wondering how best to start my layout so this has been very helpful, Thank you very much Ron!
Excellent video tutorial! Thanks
Nice job Ron..don't look to hard to do.. thanks for sharing and keep up the great work.. Lance
+CHESAPEAKE & OHIO JUNCTION Thank you.
If I wanted to build a massive full room train landscape what scale does most if the stuff usually come in most??? Trains, cars, buildings, trees etc....
Have you ever used used dryer sheets with plaster of Paris.
Good Ron, that's great and do try the colors in your plaster, it's a great way to hide the chips that happen in time, &thanks for reminding me about flag day, Jack
Have you colored your plaster before? What did you use to tint the plaster?
Ron's Trains N Things yes a long time age, just paint but you can use tints too.
I am a painter, and I am sometimes called upon to do a bit of plastering as part of the prep work prior to painting. One tip I was given (and use) to extend the working life of plaster, is to add milk powder to your plaster mix. For the quantity you are using (2 cups) I would add about a 1/4c of milk powder. This will give you an extra 30 - 45 minutes working time before the plaster starts to set up.
BNSF3012 HO That is interesting. Does it affect the strength of the plaster when cured? I may have to give that a try.
Well, it extends the working time, but it also extends the curing time, you may have to give it an extra 12 hours to cure properly, but once cured, the plaster is just as strong as it is without the milk powder.
+BNSF3012 HO Interesting. 👍
Ron, your layout is always so clean and crisp. looks fantastic. how do you deal with dust?
I had to think a bit about how to respond to this comment. I read it out loud to my wife and she laughed out loud. Dealing with dust on the unfinished sections is easy--an old 3" paint brush and a shop vac. I dust the tops of locomotives and rolling stock periodically with a 1/2" soft paint brush. Otherwise I use the shop vac held a few inches away and disturb dust into the air in the direction of the vac. The truth is the camera covers a multitude of sins--it probably isn't rally as clean as it looks.
Ron's Trains N Things haha ok! thanks for the answer! Regardless of the sins the camera covers it's really taking shape!
Also, use cold water not warm or hot water. Using warm or hot water activates the plaster quicker resulting in faster application time.
You just saved me a ton of money!!
Glad to hear that.
Ron, what do you suggest for modules? Where are you buying that Plaster of Paris bag? Thanks! Love the channel!! Could you please show me the link to the video that follows this one? You have a lot of vids and I am overwhelmed. Thank you!
For modules I would go with foam because it is so much lighter. I buy my Plaster of Paris at a local hardware store, or here is a link if you want to have it shipped. amzn.to/2GD9Fus As for the video that follows this one, I'm not sure if you meant the next one I made or if you mean the rock casting video that builds on the base idea. Either way you can go to my channel page, click the videos tab and scroll down to find it, or if you let me know which one you mean I can provide a link.
Ron great video!
+craig snyder Thanks so much for watching.
Good video! Can you please show how to use extuded foam to?
+Sgt_Thagesson I have an area I will be doing with foam and will make a video of that probably August. Thanks for watching.
hi Ron... i have used the crumpled up news paper as my base now that's old school... but for the new area in room 1 i will be using the method you have just posted...i need to figure out how to make a 3ft. section removable ... thanks for sharing... vinny
I'm sure there are a number of ways of making a section removable, but personally that is one area where I would make the case for the extruded foam. I use foam in some places, but not as much as my previous, smaller layout simply due to expense. Good luck with that. I look forward to seeing what you come up with for that removable section.
here's a few things for diy railroad layout construction
Find a proven set of plans online
Find a mate who wants to build one too so you have another person to help you
(I learned these and the reasons they work on Jareks Hobby Club site )
Very informative. Thank you for the video
Well done, Ron. I've been looking for such a video to handle the areas between my plywood sub roadbeds. Question: would you use this same technique to fill in the narrow area between your two main line sub roadbeds? Neil
Why did you specify low heat glue Ron? Does it set up faster or is it just to avoid getting burnt with the hot glue?
Because the high-temp glue will burn you through the cardboard.
Thanks Ron. I'm new to model railroading and have a lot to learn! :-)
Ron...I like this idea. I will try this technique next time..the current landscape was done by waded paper balls taped into place..covered with plaster cloth.. the problem I found was it was very hollow and airy..and I had a hard time planting trees into anything substantial. The other thing was the paper balls made wonderful homes for critters in the months to come. Since relocating my layout into a very damp environment exposed to the elements except for a metal roof..the scenery has sunk in various places.. not a good long lasting result. Tom
+Overland Transportation System Plaster cloth has advantages and disadvantages. Advantage--ease of use. Disadvantage--it is very thin. Thus the sinking issue and the trouble planting trees. My method is much harder and shouldn't sink unles it gets soaked. Tree planting should be easier, though that is where foam has a real advantage. The big disadvantage to my method is weight, but if it is well supported and not movable that shouldn't be a big deal.
Overland Transportation System, you have your own home made Sink Hole! Sorry for your troubles...
I used cardboard strips as well, but for less mess, I used plaster gauze, dipping it in water which is in a paint pan and draping it onto the web. I do have to add plaster later to cover the gauze. It costs a bit more but I like that method. You can buy plastic gauze on Amazon for much less than the model RR scenery brands.
Have you tried using Hydra cal for making mountains and other types of scenery?
I used it 36 years ago with j-cloths. Tag line is that it hardens to rock. It does. The problem now is that I can't find it in a lowes like place that no longer exists. Instead, it is like 10* the price in train stores. Great video that is already old but still holding up awesome 😎
Thanks this is some thing to consider.
Good ideas for my future N scale layout. It will feature old European electric locomotives.
Sounds cool.
Hahah you made me laugh at the begining of the video. Yes this is old school base work. Your layout looks awesome! Enjoyed this video.
+model railer Thanks for watching. 👍
Nice video. As most are on Ron's trains N Things.
Thanks.
Been looking for this video everywhere ! Now I can plan out my mountains. Stockpiled enough cardboard to crash the economy.
Cutting it into strips as the fun part.
Great ideas! Glad I found your channel. :)
All about that bass lol lol !!!
God bless America!
Instead of messing with paper towels rolled in your own plaster mix, use plaster cloth. You can find a lot of that stuff at good prices on Amazon. Never use paper mache on large scenery expanses. On a good day, you will have about 2 mins working time. Not close to the working time you will need. Use paper mache in your rock molds. Use hardware store plaster to cover your plaster cloth...if needed. You can buy plaster in bags with long or short setting times. Plaster with a 20 min setting time seems about right. It's a major pain to create your own 1" cardboard strips with any decent length to them. Instead, buy them already made in a large bundle from Micro-Mark. The price is right, and it will save you a large hassle. The cardboard strips do not need to be interlaced to form a solid scenery foundation. If you lay the secondary strips over the primaries and hot glue each intersection, that will be as strong as interlacing. In this case, you would be creating a shell with rib support.
sculptamold can be ordered on Amazon. My wife found a box of it for a better price than the small bags I was getting at the hobby shop
Thanks for the info. I may order some when this is gone, but I'm fairly certain this is basically the same thing under a different brand name.
Are you from Kansa City?
I'm not IN KC but I am in western MO withing a couple hours and have lived in the area most of my life.
Why don't you use grass mats or astro turf
WOW!
+Pong Ignacia Thanks for watching.
👍👍
Did you forget to tell everyone to moisten the foundation plaster before adding the plaster of paris?
Hey, everyone, voting is open for the IMRROcom Big Build Contest v2. I enterd the contest weeks ago and my videos are posted here. Please go vote. Here is the link. facebook.com/groups/IMRROcomBBCv2
So, as a conversation starter, I am interested to know how some of you make the base for your scenery? Do you use foam exclusively, do what I did here, or something else? Leave me a comment and let us know.
For you regular watchers, I'm sorry for getting this video up about 12 hours later than usual. Sometimes life just intervenes. I don't know what happen to the focus on that teaser scene. I was apparently having a blurry day.
Ron's Trains N Things eI used paper, nt happy with that will try your method, looks a lot better like you say foam is to expensive and hard to get in the southwest these days...Jack
Jack O I can imagine it is hard to get. Even here in the midwest I can get 1/2", but 1 1/2" or 2" which used to be readily available now has to be ordered.
There is a guy over here in the UK (can't remember his name at the moment) who uses old Tee Shirts instead of the paper towels and that works very well and of course you get the extra strength from the material.
Neil Boardman that would work very well, I guess anything that just holds would hold the first layer, Jack
Ron, I have used everything from chicken wire to cardboard webbing and plaster cloth. My favorite method for large areas is plaster soaked paper towels, (the brown public restroom type work the best IMO) over wadded up plastic grocery sacks filled with wadded up newspapers. You can tape the bags together to make virtually any contour you can imagine. Just curious how much did you spend on that paper-mache material you used in the video. My local Walmart has Sculptamold 3 pound bags for $6.87.
looks like some great scenery items on show .Thumbs up for you .Hope you like mine diesel dave's
Thank you
I think it's easier to use plaster cloth.
Easier, but much more expensive...although cheaper plaster cloth is becoming more available through non hobby vendors like Amazon.
True True I am a Canadian....BUT I also have American roots. I like America better though. My mom was from Ca
Hobby Lobby is fantastic. If you go to their website each week, there is a 40% off one item. Go once a week and you will save a lot of money.
Thanks for that. That is good info!
Where are you from fella? lol
Missouri.
Ron's Trains N Things THAT explains a lot! Just kidding of course. Could be worse, you could be from (shudder) Ohio! Greetings from the land of two peninsulas.
Ho N O Lion Amc Flyer Marx
Am I the only one who noticed “Kiss from a Rose” playing in the background? Lmao