Hello :-) i need to install a new ball joint, as well, on my Hyundai i30 2008. Elantra and i30 are similar in this regard so i'm getting my information from this video. I have a question: Should i raise the other front wheel for this work? It's not visible in the video whether you did it. Second question: What needs to happen to make sure that there is enough room for movement for the control arm to go back into the ball joint's bolt? (in your video this process starts at 5:30) My concern is that there won't be enough room for movement and i won't be able to fit the control arm back into the new ball joint. Thank you
The process should be the same. You don't need to jack up the other side if you don't want to. The easiest way to get back on to the ball joint is by using a pry bar and lifting up and over the ball joint bolt. I hope that helps.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Thank you for the answer. Have you ever tried to replace the ball joint by demounting this part "54541-2H000"? it's the element connecting the control arm to the ball joint. i'm wondering whether it would make the ball joint replacement procedure easier.
Well I’m doing exactly what he’s showing on video but the only difference is that the strut extends as soon as you pop it out of there and now I can’t get it back in. 😵
Where did you get that ball joint that you can install a grease fitting. What is the Moog number I have a 2010 elantra, sedan, GL. I looked on the moog web site. I may be changing the lower front control arms because they move with a pry bar, and a making a clunking noise going over bumps slowly. Thanks
@@DCAutoEnhancement Unable to find the number? I did contact Moog to see if they can give me the number. Not sure were the discription in the link. Because I may be replacing the lower control arm, should I not install the lower ball joint to the lower control arm first, then grease it before installing it to the lower control arm. Thanks
Is the grease fitting already installed when you order the ball joint? or do you have to drill a hole and thread it to install the ball joint? Thanks. Thanks
@HeydaCarreras to be honest, this was quite some time ago and I don't recall what I used or that I did use a thread locker. But if I did, thanks for pointing that out. Sorry for the confusion.
Great stuff. Simple and straightforward.
Very good video thanks tomorrow morning I'm going change my
Did you lift only that side of the car or take both wheels off? My control arm didn't budge.going to try the hammer like you said. 1 more try.
@@fpav4049 I only lifted the one side. That being said, you should do what you feel most comfortable with. The hammer is the trick.
Hello :-) i need to install a new ball joint, as well, on my Hyundai i30 2008. Elantra and i30 are similar in this regard so i'm getting my information from this video. I have a question: Should i raise the other front wheel for this work? It's not visible in the video whether you did it. Second question: What needs to happen to make sure that there is enough room for movement for the control arm to go back into the ball joint's bolt? (in your video this process starts at 5:30) My concern is that there won't be enough room for movement and i won't be able to fit the control arm back into the new ball joint. Thank you
The process should be the same. You don't need to jack up the other side if you don't want to. The easiest way to get back on to the ball joint is by using a pry bar and lifting up and over the ball joint bolt. I hope that helps.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Thank you for the answer. Have you ever tried to replace the ball joint by demounting this part "54541-2H000"? it's the element connecting the control arm to the ball joint. i'm wondering whether it would make the ball joint replacement procedure easier.
@@JoeMoe-l4pif you remove that you'll need a front end alignment...
Excellent video, thanks so much!
Well I’m doing exactly what he’s showing on video but the only difference is that the strut extends as soon as you pop it out of there and now I can’t get it back in. 😵
You may need to disconnect the sway bar end link if it attaches to the lower control arm.
Did you torque the castle nut to that spec because mine went right past the threads trying to get to that spec?
Same year make model
I didn't recall but, if you heard the clock then yes. Some torque wrenches can be finicky
I didn't recall but, if you heard the clock then yes. Some torque wrenches can be finicky
I didn't and I was wondering were I could find the spec in the manual
Hello, excellent video! What type of grease do you recommend?
Lithium or Moly grease is recommended. Here is a link to one that would work good. amzn.to/44RiLvK
Where did you get that ball joint that you can install a grease fitting. What is the Moog number I have a 2010 elantra, sedan, GL. I looked on the moog web site. I may be changing the lower front control arms because they move with a pry bar, and a making a clunking noise going over bumps slowly. Thanks
I am pretty sure I have a link in the description for the ball joint. If you click on it it should show you the part number.
@@DCAutoEnhancement Unable to find the number? I did contact Moog to see if they can give me the number. Not sure were the discription in the link. Because I may be replacing the lower control arm, should I not install the lower ball joint to the lower control arm first, then grease it before installing it to the lower control arm. Thanks
Thanks I found it.... K500074...Ed
Is the grease fitting already installed when you order the ball joint? or do you have to drill a hole and thread it to install the ball joint? Thanks. Thanks
@@Eddythe_Eagle it already has a threaded hole, you just screw it in and tighten it
I put blue lactide in those bolts, always.
@@HeydaCarreras loctite, is what we use here in the states. Is that what you were referring to?
@@DCAutoEnhancement yes. I saw red, because blue is medium.
@@HeydaCarreras red is for "permanent" applications and blue is recommended for fasteners that will potentially be removed in the future
@@DCAutoEnhancement Exactly my point. I saw you used red and that is permanent, but you will remove that some day.
@HeydaCarreras to be honest, this was quite some time ago and I don't recall what I used or that I did use a thread locker. But if I did, thanks for pointing that out. Sorry for the confusion.
thnx for posting
@@ericaviator8869 thanks for watching!
Mines wouldn’t even come off with a ball joint tool
did you get it off? If not, try hitting the knuckle with a hammer, that usually does the trick.
idk why u changed it looked new waste of money if u ask me 😉