I have the same doors and had issues with the back doors, primarily. They do sell, or you can make a spacer plate for the door. I added like 3 to each side to push the latch further from the door to get it to catch. I still have some adjustments to do but now they don't pop open when I hit bumps in the road.
I had the same problem when fitting replacement doors on my ex military land rover forward control 101. Fortunately Land Rover supply shims for the door lock striker so you can get it to, at least, stay closed. I think the problem is that, as with many military vehicles, no two models are built to the exact same dimensions, so building door that fits all properly is next to impossible. But as it has a canvas cover, the big door gaps would not have affected security. Anyone wants to get in, all they’d have to do is undo the canvas restraining ropes and climb aboard. So I have many visual security measures like a removable steering wheel and a locked clamp over the pedals.
I could go on and on about my FMP door fitment challenges. Finally got it after alignment, shimming, and a couple of other things. Now, they don't randomly open when hitting a pothole.
Don’t know much a red dot AC system costs but there is another company (Midwest Military?) that makes a all in one AC and heating system that takes the place of the heater box assembly on the passenger side which incorporates both heating and cooling. It also has a duct that runs along the top of the dash that distributes AC to the front passengers with two vents down the center to help the rear passengers. I believe the price was rather costly at around $5K each without installation.
damn , you are getting things done! i see that "expensive" doors arent always easy install , but i guess its more of an issue with the vehicle than the doors since no measurements are the same on both left and right side . (found out on my -87) . i made hardtop, rear wall and doors from alu. every piece is unikely made for that one spot😂 you did right on the color choivce , tan slandbacks is the thing. have you decided on wheels yet ?
Thanks man! I agree, every Humvee is different and its so hard to make a "one size fits all" type solution. For wheels I think I'm going with the black Rhinos since they look the most military out of all the options I've seen. I'd run the stock but not many realistic tire options for 16.5 inch unfortunately. I want to paint the doors tan but a lot like the green, what are your thoughts?
about the doors , i would say if you are not sure , just keep them green . you can always paint them later. same about the other way around , i saw som pictures or footage from iraq/afghanistan a loong time ago where some camo 1151's had tan doors... dont know why but i liked the look. thats the good thing about the humvee...you can always change the look without too much work. and for the wheels , rhinos look good , not a bad choice! but...a little but and maybe a minor detail , the offset/backspacing. ive ran H2 wheels for a while but didnt like the look with tires sticking out (the design is ok as long as they are black) so i found some old cepek wheels and kept H2 wheels as backup. the bodylift will take care of that problem tho , when you get some distance from the body to the tire. 👌👌
@4stroker I don't mind tires poking a little because it helps protect the body off road but I agree don't want to go crazy with it and have it look weird. I have a 2 inch body lift sitting in the garage just gotta get around to doing it lol.
I also had to add spacers behind the latches and cutomize the strikers. When you add spacers it pushes the aluminum rod out causing it to rub which doesn't allow the latch to function. So, I had to dremel out the opening where the rod shifts through. Also, the solid doors are flimsy as well when you shake them like you demonstrated. How do these doors compare to your aluminum ones on your last truck?
Overall, it's a bit of an apples to oranges comparison but I would say the CobraTek Aluminum doors were a very simple and reliable design (no internal locks, RV style windows, RV style handle/latch) and I didn't have many issues with them. Occasionally I would have a door pop open while off roading and getting a lot of flex in the body. The latches and catches seemed to work well but obviously took a little adjustment initially. They were also hybrid half doors but if I remember correctly, they were bolted together so it took a little more time to separate them, but also made them less flexible.
i just got my 1st Humvee! its set up like a 2 door truck. its a m1097a2. i was wondering how i know what c pillar to get to go from a two door to a 4 door. i have seen some and there definitely different. mine is currently a 2 door cloth top. and im definitely going to do a 4 seater and eventually get the hard top for it. just asking for your guidance before pulling the trigger. thanks for your videos they halp alot
Great question, the easiest route is to just order an entire soft top kit with the c pillar included. The only issue is this can get EXPENSIVE. Generally, fitment issues are related to the A and B pillar rather than the C pillar when it comes to factory or aftermarket hard tops. Anything factory will almost guarantee you needing to go a different windshield and B pillar like in the case of my slant back. The C pillar was simply not used at all. A lot of aftermarket kits will allow you to reuse soft top A and B pillars but I would be very weary of quality and fitment issues in general when it comes to these kits. Research and googling is well worth it!
Lol I see the paint chipping off the driver door handle, I don't know why these locking handles are so horribly built, all of mines have the paint peeling off, 2 of them the lock broke and 1 the inside lock broke off
Starting to look like my humvee
I have the same doors and had issues with the back doors, primarily. They do sell, or you can make a spacer plate for the door. I added like 3 to each side to push the latch further from the door to get it to catch. I still have some adjustments to do but now they don't pop open when I hit bumps in the road.
I had the same problem when fitting replacement doors on my ex military land rover forward control 101.
Fortunately Land Rover supply shims for the door lock striker so you can get it to, at least, stay closed.
I think the problem is that, as with many military vehicles, no two models are built to the exact same dimensions, so building door that fits all properly is next to impossible.
But as it has a canvas cover, the big door gaps would not have affected security. Anyone wants to get in, all they’d have to do is undo the canvas restraining ropes and climb aboard.
So I have many visual security measures like a removable steering wheel and a locked clamp over the pedals.
I could go on and on about my FMP door fitment challenges. Finally got it after alignment, shimming, and a couple of other things. Now, they don't randomly open when hitting a pothole.
Don’t know much a red dot AC system costs but there is another company (Midwest Military?) that makes a all in one AC and heating system that takes the place of the heater box assembly on the passenger side which incorporates both heating and cooling. It also has a duct that runs along the top of the dash that distributes AC to the front passengers with two vents down the center to help the rear passengers. I believe the price was rather costly at around $5K each without installation.
Have a link for AC? Thanks.
damn , you are getting things done! i see that "expensive" doors arent always easy install , but i guess its more of an issue with the vehicle than the doors since no measurements are the same on both left and right side . (found out on my -87) . i made hardtop, rear wall and doors from alu. every piece is unikely made for that one spot😂 you did right on the color choivce , tan slandbacks is the thing. have you decided on wheels yet ?
Thanks man! I agree, every Humvee is different and its so hard to make a "one size fits all" type solution. For wheels I think I'm going with the black Rhinos since they look the most military out of all the options I've seen. I'd run the stock but not many realistic tire options for 16.5 inch unfortunately. I want to paint the doors tan but a lot like the green, what are your thoughts?
about the doors , i would say if you are not sure , just keep them green . you can always paint them later. same about the other way around , i saw som pictures or footage from iraq/afghanistan a loong time ago where some camo 1151's had tan doors... dont know why but i liked the look. thats the good thing about the humvee...you can always change the look without too much work. and for the wheels , rhinos look good , not a bad choice! but...a little but and maybe a minor detail , the offset/backspacing. ive ran H2 wheels for a while but didnt like the look with tires sticking out (the design is ok as long as they are black) so i found some old cepek wheels and kept H2 wheels as backup. the bodylift will take care of that problem tho , when you get some distance from the body to the tire. 👌👌
@4stroker I don't mind tires poking a little because it helps protect the body off road but I agree don't want to go crazy with it and have it look weird. I have a 2 inch body lift sitting in the garage just gotta get around to doing it lol.
I also had to add spacers behind the latches and cutomize the strikers. When you add spacers it pushes the aluminum rod out causing it to rub which doesn't allow the latch to function. So, I had to dremel out the opening where the rod shifts through. Also, the solid doors are flimsy as well when you shake them like you demonstrated. How do these doors compare to your aluminum ones on your last truck?
Overall, it's a bit of an apples to oranges comparison but I would say the CobraTek Aluminum doors were a very simple and reliable design (no internal locks, RV style windows, RV style handle/latch) and I didn't have many issues with them.
Occasionally I would have a door pop open while off roading and getting a lot of flex in the body. The latches and catches seemed to work well but obviously took a little adjustment initially. They were also hybrid half doors but if I remember correctly, they were bolted together so it took a little more time to separate them, but also made them less flexible.
i just got my 1st Humvee! its set up like a 2 door truck. its a m1097a2. i was wondering how i know what c pillar to get to go from a two door to a 4 door. i have seen some and there definitely different. mine is currently a 2 door cloth top. and im definitely going to do a 4 seater and eventually get the hard top for it. just asking for your guidance before pulling the trigger. thanks for your videos they halp alot
Great question, the easiest route is to just order an entire soft top kit with the c pillar included. The only issue is this can get EXPENSIVE. Generally, fitment issues are related to the A and B pillar rather than the C pillar when it comes to factory or aftermarket hard tops. Anything factory will almost guarantee you needing to go a different windshield and B pillar like in the case of my slant back. The C pillar was simply not used at all. A lot of aftermarket kits will allow you to reuse soft top A and B pillars but I would be very weary of quality and fitment issues in general when it comes to these kits. Research and googling is well worth it!
Lol I see the paint chipping off the driver door handle, I don't know why these locking handles are so horribly built, all of mines have the paint peeling off, 2 of them the lock broke and 1 the inside lock broke off
Yea you half to treat it like it's military sorry the door doesn't close with a finger. Really man.