The trick I've always used to tension my chain is to take something like a bathroom towel and fold it twice "hotdog style" and roll it up from there. Loosen the bolts. Then take the rolled towel and put it in right below your saddle in front of the seat stays in between your rear tire and your seat tube, and then rotate your tire so the towel rolls downward (or upward if you're doing this with the bike flipped over) towards the chain stays until it's far enough in between the tire and the seat tube to give the desired tension. Then just do a slight centering of your rear wheel and tighten the bolts. Super easy, no fancy tools, works for all types of dropouts, and it'll always get your chain tight
I find it much easer/faster to tension by keeping the wrench in one hand and placing the non-wrench hand between the wheel and seat tube. Then use the non-wrench hand to both align and tension by pushing 'out', while the wrench hand tightens. Probably not the 'correct' way, but if u prefer more tension it seems like the easiest way.
I know this is rather old but this video and a bunch others have helped me plenty. Because of you I have been able to: Replace my riser bar to drop bars Replace my stem Replace my chain with decent tension Replace my rear cog since I didn’t have enough skid patches. Buy bicycle lights. And a bunch others. You’re great man !
@@Eimrine he has a video of recommended bicycle accessories. One recommendation was a light that attaches to the back of the seat. But thanks for trying
Your chain was too loose. Your lucky and have nice parts so you don't need to worry about high and low spots. I would add more tension to the chain. Check for the high and low spots. As you spin your cranks your chain will loosen and tighten. The nicer the part and who built the crank set will determin how extream this is. When your chain is at its tightest it should only have around 4 to 5 mm of movement. But if you have an extreme low spot where your chain goes loose ( above 1.4cm )you need to take a link out of your chain. If its very extreme, your rear cog, chainring or chain is worn. It could also be your rear wheel is not alighned with your chain stayes. Unless your chain has been changed recently, the chain is the best way to judge the drive chains condition. If you use a chain cheaker and its over 1% I recommend changing the chain and rear cog and testing the chainring for drive chain slipping. I apologise for any bad spelling I'm dyslexic.
watched your vids in 2020, thank you very much and now i decided to buy mataro for my first fixed gear bike because of you and very satisfied with it ^^ thank you
Use a piece of cloth between the tire and the frame, like that you can adjust the tension as wanted and it will stay still while you tight the bolts. That is all.
Simple hack to tensioning Fixie chain. Shove a tennis ball (or tightly rolled shirt for roadside repair) btw. rear tire and seat tube (ensuring tire is centered) and tighten axle nuts and check chain tension to make sure its JUST TO THE POINT OF NOT TO TIGHT (no binding while pedaling). Works like a charm!!!
What a freaking DELIGHT this video was! I was just kinda lost and hoping to learn if I can fix whatever is wrong with my bike. I DONT really know anything yet because this is relatively new to me. Well imagine my glee when not only am I getting great information in a way I can understand what I'm needing to do.... I ALSO keep cracking up at all your jokes. I keep not expecting the joke and then there is it. I haven't giggled this much in a while. Thanks for the information and the laughs
I just use a broom handle to tension my chains. Flip your bike over and put the broom handle between the frames bottom cross member and pull tight on the top of the broom handle. Gives you great leverage. All you have to do is rotate your wrist if the wheel is crooked. Works good.
Yes I did need $50 MKS chain tensioners. They are a drastic improvement from nearly all other options. I’m a huge advocate of spending top dollar on nuts, bolts, lockrings, axles. You know the parts that connect everything together
I really like your videos, and I enjoy constantly learning about fixed gear bikes. I have been riding only fixed gear bikes since the early 2000's, and can't ever go back to geared bikes. The only single speed I have is a 29er fat bike for riding in deep snow or in the sand on the beach.
Thanks for the video. I love the overcomplicated lifehack of using a Brazil nut to see if your wrench is the right size though. I mean, just check on the nut itself on the bike. 😄
Hey. That helped me a lot. I didn't know why my bikes chain wouldtn tighten and I didn't even know what chain tension was until I found this video. I thought my chain was done for. Thanks😀
I shove a broom stick between the tire and frame and then tighten the axle nuts. My older brother showed me that trick when I was a kid because he got tired of me making him come out to hold the wheel while I tightened the bolts.
Here's a simple way. With the bike either upside down or on a work stand, tighten both track nuts to finger tight. Get this right and you will then be able to adjust the position of the wheel by pulling on the track nuts with the crooks of your index fingers, with the pads of your thumbs braced against the rear end of the dropouts. Once the wheel is in the right place, tighten the nuts, a half turn each, double check the position and chain tension, then tighten them all the way. Important: position the spanner on the track nut so that when you tun, the "handle" of the spanner is moving towards the rear of the bike. This means that on one side, the spanner will be pointing upwards, and on the other side, downwards. This last step reduces the risk of the spanner itself pushing the axle forwards and slackening the chain. Simples. How much slack? As little as you can get away with as long as the pedals and back wheel turn freely and continue to do so when you stop turning them by hand. Usually the chainring and sprocket are imperfect, so the tension on the chain will vary slightly with rotation.
Just pull on the wheel with one hand with slight pressure and look at the centering from above. When it looks centered slightly tighten the drive side them the other side and lock it in place. Then tighten the drive side fully and the other side and you're good
This is a great video! It wasn't especially useful to me as the walk-it-out method is also my preferred method, but damn did you crack me up a few times.... "That's a falling lamp that's a falling bike" had me in stitches!
I like your video once I got past the intro. Now I hope youll last through mine: This instructional video of yours appears to me as directed at someone with no mechanical adjustment experience with these kinds of bikes,so that is how my critique will be focused. I mean no offence with any of my comments ,it is intended to be helpful. So Im not a "hater"......picky? mabe. Do I meet up to my apparent standards...not even close. Ok,that out of the way,I think. First,I have no experience adjusting bikes. Even though Ive ridden them over the years ,on occasion,Ive never had to do any work or adjustments excepting seat and handlebar adjustments.Unfortunately for me, Im the type that learns this stuff, on anything, when it breaks down and I need it now. I do not recommend that,but it not all that bad either. Starting a the 5 min + mark.Im glad you showed how to tighten the chain/rear wheel by alternating tightening of the chain /wheel & adjusting bolts. That could be a real time saver /on my learning curve if and when I ever have the issue while away from my home and tools. Iknow through experience and now comon sense,"lways have the basics few tools for the easy and frequent breakdowns that are common to the vehicle" which I do....usually To my point now that my intro is over: At near 6:48 you mention tightening the nuts without a torque meter guage by saying use common sense. Mechanical common sense thats required for proper torque has to be learned. Most people that this video is directed to usually havent developed a level of "common sense" you ask them to use . You may have it ,but the bulk of viewers that need this video likely dont have the experience that gives them that common sense "feel"when tightening/torquing the bolts. Keep up the good work though,
Great video! Wow, I'm glad you could put your nuts to good use. How creative of you to use your nuts to measure the correct size of a wrench. Also, I didn't know you could adjust your nuts to tighten a single speed chain.
1. Pull your wheel and tighten your chain first time with your HUGE MUSCLES 2. Tighten the opposite-drivetrain nut, align wheel, tighten the other nut 3. Pedal fast with your HUGE MUSCLES
Chain Tensioners are there for a reason.....adjust either side a bit at a time,once the wheel is centred and then when the chain has a fraction of play, then tighten the tensioner nuts,but not too much.I then use two spanners (wrenches) for the wheel nuts.And then I tweak the tensioner nuts tight one last time.Has never failed me.....Look at a Motorcycle,its similar....
I aways used a wooden wedge between te tire and the frame to pull the weel. But your method is very usefull, especially when you are riding and need to change or mend the rear tire. I just thought your chain too loose.
I would need to subtly disagree with Efficiency and Longevity being the most important factors to chain tension on a fixedgear bike.....On the street. If you were riding the bike on the velodrome or perhaps in a fixed-gear crit, this might be the case. For most riders using there bikes in the street, you would need the chain slightly tighter to allow for more responsiveness when stopping and track-standing. Maybe 2cm up and down would be plenty of (street slack)
just a tip. never use a wrench that is open. always use a wrench that is like a closed one. that way you never damage your wheel nuts when tightening them down. trust me you don't want rounded wheel nuts
Zach, I've watched a lot of your videos and I think your quite knowledgeable and have good insight on bikes but this video is just crazy. When you have one side tightened and are pulling the axle to tighten the chain you are flexing/bending the frame on the other side. You want everything lined up and straight before you start tightening nuts down or you are tightening flexed or bent parts down. Use the tensioners, they are there to help do the job properly, just because you can "kinda" do a job without the right tools doesn't mean the job is done properly.
I've been having this issue that my chain look like yours did at the beginning of this video for a long time and when riding every so often the chain would slide it off or pop off and I would just have to set it back on again roll it on and I tried asking my friend's father that I live with who has fixed bikes simply in the past and just something about his explanation or problem of why he couldn't do it just seemed a bit off and now that I see this I feel like it was so simple and I know the answer and once I get home right now I'm going to find out so if you did help me I want to thank you in advance LOL
I have no video, just press your hand between the tire and the seattube tighten the driveside scew and then anlign your wheel and tighten the other one.
Mr gallardo i woul lke you make a video for adult who areent so strong again and want to ride bike with a standard crank & pinion could chose for small hills & drive aroud neighbohrhood, thanks for your great videos. Good job mr zack.
Zach a few months ago I noticed my chained sort of jumped slightly but ignored it, thinking it was no problem, now it jumps higher than ever. even with tightening it properly, I gets tight if you turn the crank to a certain point Loose in an another, could this be because of an old chain or my crank is misaligned.thank you
Matthew Martinez I would say your chainring is possibly bent? best way to tell would be remove rear wheel and take chain off of the chain ring and spin the pedals around and let them soon, then hold a finger 1mm away from the chainring as it spins and if it intermittently touches your finger, if so it could be bent
Hey Zach I'm a larger guy 300lbs that wants to bike to work sometimes. I only live 3 miles away from work. Do you or anyone else have suggestions on bikes. I've been looking at fat tire bikes not sure if that would be a good idea. Any tips would be great.
Hey big guy, make sure you ride with MINIMUM 32 spoke wheels with 32mm tires, rear tire pumped up to MAXIMUM 120psi!!! You are TOO heavy for 28mm tires. If you can find a 36 spoke rear wheel with 38mm tires that would be even better. Oh and NO CARBON FORK, you are too heavy for that. Your BEST BET is a Steel frame and STEEL fork. Ride ALOT to lose weight. Drink 16 oz. of H2O BEFORE AND AFTER your ride for hydration and appetite suppression so you don't gorge after exercising. 300 lbs. is WAYYY TOO HEAVY. Cycling is probably the BEST WAY to shed that fat there pal!!!
He rides with brakes (and a front basket) that is why he doesn't throw his chain with that kind of slack. The right slack is 12-14mm in my opinion, if you go tighter you lose watts.
Hey, Luke. I want to help you out, my man. Don't use "omg" as a punctuation mark at the end of your sentences. Doing this makes not only makes you look inept at written communication, but also like a bit of a fruitcake. Take your cake made of fruits and throw it in the rubbish, sir.
Chainstays are sometimes different shapes (or lengths) and do not work for centering. Best to use a combination of chainstay AND seat tube/BB Shell. Definitely always use a brazil nut though. Get those nuts loose.
I'm not a fan of not having a chain tensioner. I ride gravel every day and if the bolts are not tight, the wheel will slide, the tensioner fixes that problem. Another thing, I broke my bolts because they were too tight. Tight bolts are not fun, specially when you have a flat.
берешь кароче подсидельный штырь или насос. закатываешь его меж колесом и трубой, до такой степени, пока цепь не будет достаточно натянута и всё. ровняешь колесо и ноу проблемос
I used to spend over 30 minutes to figure out how to correctly do this myself. Because everytime I tight the bolt, the chain go loose, the wheel not on center and have to do it all over again. :/
Couple of points regardless of the process on how you tension the chain. Depending on the quality of the cogs or chainring the tension can vary due not being exactly round as you turn the wheel. Also, as you are testing the chain tension by rotating the wheel, always keep you fingers away from the spinning chainring or cog. Unlike a rear derailleur that has a spring, here you can get seriously hurt.
I am personally a mountain biker, but looking for a transportation bike. I also saw some cannondale 650b +tire hardtail and a brand new single speed electra townie. Even saw some non folding dahon hardtail that had a crap frame, but nice shimano disc brakes and an air fork. Lastly, I saw an SE so cal flyer 24 inch. I just want an XC bike and maybe a fixie ;-;
Hey man the fact that you're in middle school and already possibly getting a fixed gear is pretty baller. It's funny cause I'm in my second year of college and last year I had no car and rode a second hand rockhopper all over my city for transportation. Last semester I upgraded to a Schwinn Highplains which is closer to a road-worthy ride and finally this semester I got my first fixed gear a SE lager and I fucking love it. Still haven't done my first build yet but will someday when I'm better versed with bike mechanics. You'll deff get there man and the difference between riding that rockhopper in the streets and a real city bike or road bike is fucking mindblowing, you'll love it bro :)
Not exactly related to chain tension, Zack, but how does a half link chain compare to the normal full link bike chain in terms of: 1. weight 2. durability 3. "chain stretch" 4. connector link types (pin, clip, cotter?) 4. overall efficiency I'm looking to replace a chain now, and wondered which option to choose.
Put an empty water bottle between frame (seat tube) and the tyre. voilà. Worked every time for me and gets the chain pretty much right every time. If too tight let some air out of the bottle by squeezing and replace the cap.
Zack dont get Me wrong, I'm a huge fan of Your channel, but I think that 2 inches of slack is wayyy to much. I did what You said, and My bike was slow and unresponsive. I tightened it to 1/2 an inch on both sides, and It rides like a dream 😉👌👌
Seems impossible task to maintain position of rear axle on my Langster without chain-tugs. After installing tugs, the bike went from a rattling mess into a much less noisy urban shredder, slamming over anything without fear of chain jumping off.
If I have an inch of slack then I just hear a constant rattling riding my chipseal roads, that's too loose. If there is zero slack as some have recommended, and you're using a freewheel, then the freewheel can start making some undesirable sounds. About a quarter of an inch is just right. And for those saying to shove a freaking tennis ball or water bottle between your tire and the seat tube, you don't seem to realize that bikes come in different geometries. I have a Wabi Special with 27mm tires and can't even squeeze a finger in between.
That's pretty loose. The reality is that _any_ slack in the chain is enough slack. You need some slack so that there's no binding and extra friction, but as long as there's a bit, more isn't better. The slack is all taken up by your pedal force, and the chain tension will be exactly the same when riding whether you have a quarter inch or two inches. There's no effect on efficiency or wear, it just affects the amount of backlash, and likelyhood of dropping your chain. I don't like the backlash of a slack chain, so I set mine with very little slack. One thing to be sure of when setting a low amount of slack is that you're doing it at the tightest position of the chainring. Some rings aren't perfectly made, and clearance on the stack bolts can make the ring non-concentric. I just adjust mine roughly, find the point with the least slack, then I adjust it without turning my wheel so there's very little slack. I will end up with around 1/8" peak-to-peak at the tightest point, and around 1/4" at the loosest.
Or you could just take off your whole back wheel, and set your cog teeth aligned to your skid patch area to a different spot so that when you skid, your pedals align with a different spot on the tire.
The trick I've always used to tension my chain is to take something like a bathroom towel and fold it twice "hotdog style" and roll it up from there. Loosen the bolts. Then take the rolled towel and put it in right below your saddle in front of the seat stays in between your rear tire and your seat tube, and then rotate your tire so the towel rolls downward (or upward if you're doing this with the bike flipped over) towards the chain stays until it's far enough in between the tire and the seat tube to give the desired tension. Then just do a slight centering of your rear wheel and tighten the bolts. Super easy, no fancy tools, works for all types of dropouts, and it'll always get your chain tight
This video made me realize my chain is crazy tight! Thanks!
I find it much easer/faster to tension by keeping the wrench in one hand and placing the non-wrench hand between the wheel and seat tube. Then use the non-wrench hand to both align and tension by pushing 'out', while the wrench hand tightens. Probably not the 'correct' way, but if u prefer more tension it seems like the easiest way.
Bessed Drest this ^
Bessed Drest its waaay faster.. you cant take 3 hrs to do what he shows on video when you ride bmx. cuz if the wheel shifts .. 3 hrs down the drain
I know this is rather old but this video and a bunch others have helped me plenty. Because of you I have been able to:
Replace my riser bar to drop bars
Replace my stem
Replace my chain with decent tension
Replace my rear cog since I didn’t have enough skid patches.
Buy bicycle lights.
And a bunch others. You’re great man !
bicycle lights or absence of them is not propagating on this channel afaik
@@Eimrine he has a video of recommended bicycle accessories. One recommendation was a light that attaches to the back of the seat. But thanks for trying
Your chain was too loose. Your lucky and have nice parts so you don't need to worry about high and low spots. I would add more tension to the chain. Check for the high and low spots. As you spin your cranks your chain will loosen and tighten. The nicer the part and who built the crank set will determin how extream this is. When your chain is at its tightest it should only have around 4 to 5 mm of movement. But if you have an extreme low spot where your chain goes loose ( above 1.4cm )you need to take a link out of your chain. If its very extreme, your rear cog, chainring or chain is worn. It could also be your rear wheel is not alighned with your chain stayes. Unless your chain has been changed recently, the chain is the best way to judge the drive chains condition. If you use a chain cheaker and its over 1% I recommend changing the chain and rear cog and testing the chainring for drive chain slipping.
I apologise for any bad spelling I'm dyslexic.
watched your vids in 2020, thank you very much and now i decided to buy mataro for my first fixed gear bike because of you and very satisfied with it ^^ thank you
Use a piece of cloth between the tire and the frame, like that you can adjust the tension as wanted and it will stay still while you tight the bolts. That is all.
Simple hack to tensioning Fixie chain. Shove a tennis ball (or tightly rolled shirt for roadside repair) btw. rear tire and seat tube (ensuring tire is centered) and tighten axle nuts and check chain tension to make sure its JUST TO THE POINT OF NOT TO TIGHT (no binding while pedaling). Works like a charm!!!
What a freaking DELIGHT this video was! I was just kinda lost and hoping to learn if I can fix whatever is wrong with my bike. I DONT really know anything yet because this is relatively new to me. Well imagine my glee when not only am I getting great information in a way I can understand what I'm needing to do.... I ALSO keep cracking up at all your jokes. I keep not expecting the joke and then there is it. I haven't giggled this much in a while. Thanks for the information and the laughs
I just use a broom handle to tension my chains. Flip your bike over and put the broom handle between the frames bottom cross member and pull tight on the top of the broom handle. Gives you great leverage. All you have to do is rotate your wrist if the wheel is crooked. Works good.
2:28 T I G H T N U T S
Yes I did need $50 MKS chain tensioners. They are a drastic improvement from nearly all other options. I’m a huge advocate of spending top dollar on nuts, bolts, lockrings, axles. You know the parts that connect everything together
one of the more useful videos i've every encountered salute
I really like your videos, and I enjoy constantly learning about fixed gear bikes. I have been riding only fixed gear bikes since the early 2000's, and can't ever go back to geared bikes. The only single speed I have is a 29er fat bike for riding in deep snow or in the sand on the beach.
Thanks for the video. I love the overcomplicated lifehack of using a Brazil nut to see if your wrench is the right size though. I mean, just check on the nut itself on the bike. 😄
I felt totally stupid then I saw your clip and now I can cycle again. Thank you so much
I am super grateful for this video. Both the knowledge and the giggles. Thank you!
It worked great!!! I fixed my sons bike!
Thanks
I'm confused Zack, I thought you're supposed to use one of those hipster wrenches that also open bear bottles.
Hey. That helped me a lot. I didn't know why my bikes chain wouldtn tighten and I didn't even know what chain tension was until I found this video. I thought my chain was done for. Thanks😀
Your intro brought me here and kept me here!!!
Thanks! I had absolutely no idea what I was doing switching my bike from single speed to fixed gear 😅
“That’s a falling lamp that’s a falling bike, things are going okay”
I shove a broom stick between the tire and frame and then tighten the axle nuts. My older brother showed me that trick when I was a kid because he got tired of me making him come out to hold the wheel while I tightened the bolts.
Here's a simple way. With the bike either upside down or on a work stand, tighten both track nuts to finger tight. Get this right and you will then be able to adjust the position of the wheel by pulling on the track nuts with the crooks of your index fingers, with the pads of your thumbs braced against the rear end of the dropouts. Once the wheel is in the right place, tighten the nuts, a half turn each, double check the position and chain tension, then tighten them all the way. Important: position the spanner on the track nut so that when you tun, the "handle" of the spanner is moving towards the rear of the bike. This means that on one side, the spanner will be pointing upwards, and on the other side, downwards. This last step reduces the risk of the spanner itself pushing the axle forwards and slackening the chain. Simples. How much slack? As little as you can get away with as long as the pedals and back wheel turn freely and continue to do so when you stop turning them by hand. Usually the chainring and sprocket are imperfect, so the tension on the chain will vary slightly with rotation.
Just pull on the wheel with one hand with slight pressure and look at the centering from above. When it looks centered slightly tighten the drive side them the other side and lock it in place. Then tighten the drive side fully and the other side and you're good
This is a great video! It wasn't especially useful to me as the walk-it-out method is also my preferred method, but damn did you crack me up a few times.... "That's a falling lamp that's a falling bike" had me in stitches!
HAHHAHAHAHAHAHAAHAHH
Congratulations! you made a easy things a hard way!
I like your video once I got past the intro. Now I hope youll last through mine:
This instructional video of yours appears to me as directed at someone with no mechanical adjustment experience with these kinds of bikes,so that is how my critique will be focused. I mean no offence with any of my comments ,it is intended to be helpful. So Im not a "hater"......picky? mabe. Do I meet up to my apparent standards...not even close. Ok,that out of the way,I think.
First,I have no experience adjusting bikes. Even though Ive ridden them over the years ,on occasion,Ive never had to do any work or adjustments excepting seat and handlebar adjustments.Unfortunately for me, Im the type that learns this stuff, on anything, when it breaks down and I need it now. I do not recommend that,but it not all that bad either.
Starting a the 5 min + mark.Im glad you showed how to tighten the chain/rear wheel by alternating tightening of the chain /wheel & adjusting bolts. That could be a real time saver /on my learning curve if and when I ever have the issue while away from my home and tools. Iknow through experience and now comon sense,"lways have the basics few tools for the easy and frequent breakdowns that are common to the vehicle" which I do....usually
To my point now that my intro is over:
At near 6:48 you mention tightening the nuts without a torque meter guage by saying use common sense. Mechanical common sense thats required for proper torque has to be learned. Most people that this video is directed to usually havent developed a level of "common sense" you ask them to use . You may have it ,but the bulk of viewers that need this video likely dont have the experience that gives them that common sense "feel"when tightening/torquing the bolts.
Keep up the good work though,
This is so funny for no reason i love it
Great video! Wow, I'm glad you could put your nuts to good use. How creative of you to use your nuts to measure the correct size of a wrench. Also, I didn't know you could adjust your nuts to tighten a single speed chain.
Excellent chain tightening instructions!
1. Pull your wheel and tighten your chain first time with your HUGE MUSCLES
2. Tighten the opposite-drivetrain nut, align wheel, tighten the other nut
3. Pedal fast with your HUGE MUSCLES
Hmmm, will try this... (fingers crossed) :)
I learned this when I was 9 years old, driving and fixing old BMX bikes.
That's a pretty darn long process of tightening and loosening
Royce Lee
That's exactly what I Was thinking!😂🤣
gotta hit the algarythm
Zach: "easy way"
Also zach: "i'm not good at mechanical stuff"
In reality it only takes like 2mins top.
Get a chain tensioner, it will make your life easier.
Chain Tensioners are there for a reason.....adjust either side a bit at a time,once the wheel is centred and then when the chain has a fraction of play, then tighten the tensioner nuts,but not too much.I then use two spanners (wrenches) for the wheel nuts.And then I tweak the tensioner nuts tight one last time.Has never failed me.....Look at a Motorcycle,its similar....
I aways used a wooden wedge between te tire and the frame to pull the weel.
But your method is very usefull, especially when you are riding and need to change or mend the rear tire.
I just thought your chain too loose.
dude, all of your videos are like 80 percent longer than they need to be.
Adhi R. Your opinion is 100% unnecessary and acknowledged.
Zach is 100% forever.
he is trying to hit the 10 minute mark for more moneyz
Pedal Strokes it not even 10 minutes
Says pulling when pushing. Calls nuts "bolts".
🤦
"You don't need to yank it or anything... gently, it's your bike, not a lonely friday night." Goddamn legend.
Thanks this was really helpful!
Thx bro now I don’t have a loose chain and the chain don’t fkn fall off now so thx bro
Sir, I can conclude that your first name is fantastically beautiful.
LMAO dude really
maybe its because yo got the same name too
@@theunitedrobloxians144 I like to pronounce "Zack" like "back."
"Zach" sounds like "Bach" to me. (Yes, I'm toying with German.)
I would need to subtly disagree with Efficiency and Longevity being the most important factors to chain tension on a fixedgear bike.....On the street. If you were riding the bike on the velodrome or perhaps in a fixed-gear crit, this might be the case. For most riders using there bikes in the street, you would need the chain slightly tighter to allow for more responsiveness when stopping and track-standing. Maybe 2cm up and down would be plenty of (street slack)
Their*
I’m saving this video😂
just a tip. never use a wrench that is open. always use a wrench that is like a closed one. that way you never damage your wheel nuts when tightening them down. trust me you don't want rounded wheel nuts
Ratcheted 15mm wrench FTW
lmao you had my dying with the brazil nut strat.
brilliant video helped me a lot
Thanks for the info, great video!
Zach, I've watched a lot of your videos and I think your quite knowledgeable and have good insight on bikes but this video is just crazy. When you have one side tightened and are pulling the axle to tighten the chain you are flexing/bending the frame on the other side. You want everything lined up and straight before you start tightening nuts down or you are tightening flexed or bent parts down. Use the tensioners, they are there to help do the job properly, just because you can "kinda" do a job without the right tools doesn't mean the job is done properly.
Great effort bro,great info,,subbed
Great video, very usefull. Thanks.
I've been having this issue that my chain look like yours did at the beginning of this video for a long time and when riding every so often the chain would slide it off or pop off and I would just have to set it back on again roll it on and I tried asking my friend's father that I live with who has fixed bikes simply in the past and just something about his explanation or problem of why he couldn't do it just seemed a bit off and now that I see this I feel like it was so simple and I know the answer and once I get home right now I'm going to find out so if you did help me I want to thank you in advance LOL
use dots and comas. kindly please
It's pretty much like scooting it til it's just right 😌
That was lo-key creepy because I thought the "hey zach" was a ad targeted at me
Prop Ability FPV 😭😭
That's not the easy and fast way.
hopetofly pull it back with your fucking hands and tighten it. It's not rocket surgery
I have no video, just press your hand between the tire and the seattube tighten the driveside scew and then anlign your wheel and tighten the other one.
Aidan Shmaden
It also isn't brain science.
Mr gallardo i woul lke you make a video for adult who areent so strong again and want to ride bike with a standard crank & pinion could chose for small hills & drive aroud neighbohrhood, thanks for your great videos. Good job mr zack.
Zach a few months ago I noticed my chained sort of jumped slightly but ignored it, thinking it was no problem, now it jumps higher than ever. even with tightening it properly, I gets tight if you turn the crank to a certain point Loose in an another, could this be because of an old chain or my crank is misaligned.thank you
Matthew Martinez Do some chainring adjustments via the chainring bolts. Google a tutorial.
Matthew Martinez I would say your chainring is possibly bent? best way to tell would be remove rear wheel and take chain off of the chain ring and spin the pedals around and let them soon, then hold a finger 1mm away from the chainring as it spins and if it intermittently touches your finger, if so it could be bent
Hey Zach I'm a larger guy 300lbs that wants to bike to work sometimes. I only live 3 miles away from work. Do you or anyone else have suggestions on bikes. I've been looking at fat tire bikes not sure if that would be a good idea. Any tips would be great.
Hey big guy, make sure you ride with MINIMUM 32 spoke wheels with 32mm tires, rear tire pumped up to MAXIMUM 120psi!!! You are TOO heavy for 28mm tires. If you can find a 36 spoke rear wheel with 38mm tires that would be even better. Oh and NO CARBON FORK, you are too heavy for that. Your BEST BET is a Steel frame and STEEL fork. Ride ALOT to lose weight. Drink 16 oz. of H2O BEFORE AND AFTER your ride for hydration and appetite suppression so you don't gorge after exercising. 300 lbs. is WAYYY TOO HEAVY. Cycling is probably the BEST WAY to shed that fat there pal!!!
Charge cooker
That chain is far too loose omg
it's a quarter inch slack, not an inch omg
Quite surprised you don't throw your chain everyday
"DO IT RIGHT" -.-
He rides with brakes (and a front basket) that is why he doesn't throw his chain with that kind of slack. The right slack is 12-14mm in my opinion, if you go tighter you lose watts.
loose chain is a happy chain
Hey, Luke. I want to help you out, my man. Don't use "omg" as a punctuation mark at the end of your sentences. Doing this makes not only makes you look inept at written communication, but also like a bit of a fruitcake. Take your cake made of fruits and throw it in the rubbish, sir.
1/2 is what i do.
Pollo Frito your comment made me cringe.
Thanks! 🍓receive a strawberry.
this video really help me to tension my chain thanks! Zach Gallardo
how to fix axial misalignment?
hey zaaaackkk PLEASE NOTICE NEED HELP .. my chain is much tighter at one point of the crank revolution than the rest. is it normal ?
TheErraticAlien Yay thanks .
@@TheErraticAlien i don't think so
Easy Way to Tension Your Chain... over 7 minutes yeesh. Love your vids though, keep it up!
HAHAHAHH Thats the opposite of what he said LOL
i'm happy to give it a try on my bike
Chainstays are sometimes different shapes (or lengths) and do not work for centering. Best to use a combination of chainstay AND seat tube/BB Shell.
Definitely always use a brazil nut though. Get those nuts loose.
I'm not a fan of not having a chain tensioner. I ride gravel every day and if the bolts are not tight, the wheel will slide, the tensioner fixes that problem. Another thing, I broke my bolts because they were too tight. Tight bolts are not fun, specially when you have a flat.
Great video.
берешь кароче подсидельный штырь или насос. закатываешь его меж колесом и трубой, до такой степени, пока цепь не будет достаточно натянута и всё. ровняешь колесо и ноу проблемос
if your chain were any more droopy, it would be hanging with dripple.
scott joplin, nice taste in music
Actually, that's Jott Scoplin. (I'm just pulling your leg, although Com Truise is an actual musical artist.)
I used to spend over 30 minutes to figure out how to correctly do this myself. Because everytime I tight the bolt, the chain go loose, the wheel not on center and have to do it all over again. :/
That's the way you do it, ya get your tension on the UTV. Oh-- that ain't workin', that's the way you do it.
So it’s not necessary to have that plastic barrier in front of the big chain loop? Mine broke during this process lol.
5:16 ronnies eating cookies lol
“That’s a falling lamp” 😂😂😂
Couple of points regardless of the process on how you tension the chain. Depending on the quality of the cogs or chainring the tension can vary due not being exactly round as you turn the wheel. Also, as you are testing the chain tension by rotating the wheel, always keep you fingers away from the spinning chainring or cog. Unlike a rear derailleur that has a spring, here you can get seriously hurt.
Can you do a video on removing scratches or bull horns vs risers vs drops
Great!
I'm in middle school and someone has a scott sub, and someone else has a 6ku fixie. I'm stuck with a second hand specialized rockhopper ;-;
I am personally a mountain biker, but looking for a transportation bike. I also saw some cannondale 650b +tire hardtail and a brand new single speed electra townie. Even saw some non folding dahon hardtail that had a crap frame, but nice shimano disc brakes and an air fork. Lastly, I saw an SE so cal flyer 24 inch. I just want an XC bike and maybe a fixie ;-;
Hey man the fact that you're in middle school and already possibly getting a fixed gear is pretty baller. It's funny cause I'm in my second year of college and last year I had no car and rode a second hand rockhopper all over my city for transportation. Last semester I upgraded to a Schwinn Highplains which is closer to a road-worthy ride and finally this semester I got my first fixed gear a SE lager and I fucking love it. Still haven't done my first build yet but will someday when I'm better versed with bike mechanics. You'll deff get there man and the difference between riding that rockhopper in the streets and a real city bike or road bike is fucking mindblowing, you'll love it bro :)
Thanks! *realizes I can only afford a second hand 6ku* shit.
Not exactly related to chain tension, Zack, but how does a half link chain compare to the normal full link bike chain in terms of:
1. weight
2. durability
3. "chain stretch"
4. connector link types (pin, clip, cotter?)
4. overall efficiency
I'm looking to replace a chain now, and wondered which option to choose.
Half links are common in bmx, very strong chains but a little on the heavy side. a normal single speed chain will function the same
Thanks! Doesn't look like operating on a rocket indeed
Put an empty water bottle between frame (seat tube) and the tyre. voilà.
Worked every time for me and gets the chain pretty much right every time. If too tight let some air out of the bottle by squeezing and replace the cap.
Why is it good to keep the chain tension so loose rather than tight ?
I get mocked for my chain droopiness. But, I can go fast and my drive train is shiny.
A peanut is a 5mm. A jellybean is 4mm.
do you even ride that bike? it looks so clean.
Zack dont get Me wrong, I'm a huge fan of Your channel, but I think that 2 inches of slack is wayyy to much. I did what You said, and My bike was slow and unresponsive. I tightened it to 1/2 an inch on both sides, and It rides like a dream 😉👌👌
Love it!!
Seems impossible task to maintain position of rear axle on my Langster without chain-tugs. After installing tugs, the bike went from a rattling mess into a much less noisy urban shredder, slamming over anything without fear of chain jumping off.
If I have an inch of slack then I just hear a constant rattling riding my chipseal roads, that's too loose. If there is zero slack as some have recommended, and you're using a freewheel, then the freewheel can start making some undesirable sounds. About a quarter of an inch is just right. And for those saying to shove a freaking tennis ball or water bottle between your tire and the seat tube, you don't seem to realize that bikes come in different geometries. I have a Wabi Special with 27mm tires and can't even squeeze a finger in between.
Well, it's certainly 'a way'... but just pull the wheel back and tighten the nut and you're done, then tweak.
That's pretty loose. The reality is that _any_ slack in the chain is enough slack. You need some slack so that there's no binding and extra friction, but as long as there's a bit, more isn't better. The slack is all taken up by your pedal force, and the chain tension will be exactly the same when riding whether you have a quarter inch or two inches. There's no effect on efficiency or wear, it just affects the amount of backlash, and likelyhood of dropping your chain.
I don't like the backlash of a slack chain, so I set mine with very little slack. One thing to be sure of when setting a low amount of slack is that you're doing it at the tightest position of the chainring. Some rings aren't perfectly made, and clearance on the stack bolts can make the ring non-concentric.
I just adjust mine roughly, find the point with the least slack, then I adjust it without turning my wheel so there's very little slack. I will end up with around 1/8" peak-to-peak at the tightest point, and around 1/4" at the loosest.
Hey, could you do a video on how to rotate your back wheel, so that the skid point rotates as well ?
If you look up a skid patch table, you might be able to find a gear combo that gives you more skid patches so you don't always wear the same spot.
It should deviate itself.
Deflate your tire, take out the tube, rotate the tire on the rim, put the tube back in...?
Or you could just take off your whole back wheel, and set your cog teeth aligned to your skid patch area to a different spot so that when you skid, your pedals align with a different spot on the tire.
I think i shall stick to my third pin rule. Where i make sure my third pin can nvr go over my chain ring.
Would having a slacker chain make it easier to skid on a fixie???
what if you have a thru axle hub and frame?
Do u put back the chain tensioner on after all that ?
I have a question. Does ghost ring gives me more fixie points?
Can we do this faster coz this is a very long process and I faced this issue in middle of a ride.