NVME does indeed get hot. That is why the installed fan plate had the thermal tape on it to transfer the heat to that steel plate. And while the fan may be annoying, even with an ssd in place there is just enough space for it to move all of the air it is sucking up, over the steel plate and out of the case. You do not have to move a lot of air, but you need to move it none the less from an engineering perspective. It also helps keep the ram cooler AND the back of the chipset.
Glad you posted this! That buzzing noise from the little fan was driving me crazy, and I was wondering why reviews were saying the system was “whisper quiet”!! I thought I was going crazy. The earlier revisions of this 5600h system did not include the fan.
I'm glad it helped. Thinking about it a bit more, the little fan probably does help if you don't add an additional SSD. As soon as you do though, it stops making sense (to me anyway). Nice thing about what I did, is it can be reversed easy enough. :)
@@megazoid I added a SATA SSD like you, and then had to remove the SATA SSD’s shell because the NVMe SSD heatsink got in the way. I’m wondering if a SATA extension cable will allow the full SATA shell to fit in another spot.
@@dsi76 I couldn't find a longer ribbon cable, but I think you can get SATA 22Pin Male to Female Extension Cables from Ebay & Amazon. I've not tried them though, and they might be a bit big perhaps?
@@megazoid I’m gonna get a thin copper heatsink so that I can fit the SATA drive back in its casing. It will otherwise get annoying to have to remove the casing every time I upgrade the storage. I have foam double-sided tape that I can use to mount the SATA drive to the base plate.
Love the honesty with the video. I just got mine with 32GB RAM and 1Tb hard drive. Ordered another drive to load Batocera on it. Contemplating some of your mods, specifically new thermal paste. Ill probably keep the fan for now and see how everything goes. awesome video!!
Well I bought my Beelink ser 5 from Amazon for 289 pounds. My fan makes zero noise, temp gaming running 68-72 Celsius. For me it was the best bang for the buck.
Ive seen a comment from Beelink on Reddit that says their thermal paste is actually phase changing silicone grease and will always feel hard at room temperature. I cant say whether or not this is true but its one potential explanation. I have a ser5 MAX arriving soon and some of the PTM7950 sheet I ordered a few months ago for my Steam Deck and Asus G14 laptop; im going to repaste the ser5 with it and hopefully be able to set the BIOS TDP from 34W default to 45W or 54W without running into throttling issues. We shall see. Ill mostly be using it with Batocera as an emulation box and some light Steam gaming. I wish some of the videos actually showed the underside of the board. Realistically, it should be super easy to remove the cooler and heatsink as ive re-pasted various Switch models, my Deck, laptop, etc but its always nice actually seeing the process first.
Beelink themselves did an (almost worthless) video of removing the blower fan (Ser3), but not the copper heat sink (which is something like another 4 screws) : ua-cam.com/video/Lkz3B4KkyTg/v-deo.html . I didn't do a before and after check on iGPU temps so I have no clue if it improved performance. The unit is still working fine though. Good luck.
@@megazoid while before/after can be useful, I've seen a lot of posts that everyone has noticed an improvement using high quality paste vs whatever they're using at the factory. It's a shame that such an inexpensive component is the one they shaved off quality on as the Pro and Max models are great with the higher TDP options but not when thermals become a problem.
Just got the 32gb model, I was surprised by the built-in SSD/caddy cooler. The models I saw on UA-cam a few months ago didn't have it, the SSD caddy was attached by a delicate cable/ribbon. I had a brand new 1tb SSD drive that I had originally planned on using to add a storage drive to an aging laptop. Naturally, I decided to use it with my new Beelink instead (my aging laptop can "suck it," for now.) I was delighted at how easy it was to just pop in the drive (not having to worry about the cable issue, etc.) Easiest computer setup in my life. Now, you tell me I'm doing it all wrong, LOL. I think I'll just let sleeping dogs lie. I love this thing. Wait! What's that I hear? Sounds like a computer fan whirling. Funny, I hadn't noticed that before, thanks for bringing it to my attention. 😀
Uh oh... I should have said nothing heh. Everybody is different though, and where you put the mini is also going to be a factor. Mine is mounted behind my monitor and up against a wall. I'm 2 feet from it and the noise reflects off the wall. While the mini fan is certainly not obnoxious, I figured why not play around with it. Glad you like the Beelink also. It has exceeded my expectations, and I'm difficult to please 😄
Very helpful video! I just took delivery of mine yesterday and mine has the same HDD "cooling tray" that Beelink doesn't show in their own HDD installation tutorial video. I will try to get mine out. Your video taught me a couple of things (like the Captain's Tape - that was new to me, a removing the SSD board from its case - I like that approach). It was also helpful to see the tray removed from the PC as I was having a hard time determining how many screws were holding it in. Otherwise, so far, I really like this rig! Very pleased with the performance and mini format.
I hardly use my other machine now. I thought it might have a problem with video editing, but it seems fine doing that. The second fan is only going to bother some people, so definitely try it out before changing things. Btw it's Kapton tape 😄
just opened mine with 5800H...windows shutdown but still making noise...it was the f...ssd fan...if you don't want to add a 2.5p ssd for internal storage (mine si 32/500 so it's ok) i think remiving this part is a good thing...for the wifi 6 card i'm disappointed...not so great, maybe i will use my old usb3key with a long usb cable..less magnitic fields, better reception
Those plastic SSD cooler plates have started appearing on lots of minis recently - I've had them on three recent Minisforum machines - and they don't make a lot of sense because they probably block more airflow than they create and they get in the way of NVME heatsinks at least the one on my Firecuda drive, anyway. Would a larger, slower fan fit if that plate wasn't there and you drilled out the bottom of the case? If it's throttling at 70 degrees it might be worth checking the BIOS settings, as processors will happily run much hotter than that.
I made a mistake on the the throttling temps. The 70 degrees (from memory) was the throttling temps on the Vega 7 CU's - the GPU part of the APU. The chip as a whole I think is 90c. I'm surprised to hear about the Minisforum machines. I'll probably go for a Minisforum over a Beelink in the future. I'll check the design before I buy for sure.
@@megazoid Minisforum are cheaper and offer barebones PCs, so they are a good deal. Nothing wrong with these little Beelinks, though; amazing value for money!
Excellent ideas. Im thinking a more efficient fan and a 3D printed base will do the trick. Im getting a Ryzen 7 5800H, 54W so im thinking I want some air flow. Your SSD idea is brillient though!
Finding a way to separate the bottom plate from the computer about 1/16th of an inch would help air flow too. I'm sure there's some sort of bracket or attachment..
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Hey! Thanks for this video. My one week old ser5 pro has the same issues. I completely removed the ssd case and cooler and also my thermal paste was really hard and very difficult to remove it. Finally was able to clean everything and change with Arctic mx4 and it seems to me the fan is less audible and it keeps it turned off longer than before.
This is a great video. Oddly, I have the 5800H model ser-PRO (revision?) and it has the ssd caddy but the fan truly is quiet. I know it works as I can fel the heat being exhausted, but seeing what you did with the 2.5" drive inspired me to remove my 2.5" SSD from its case and sticking the board back in with an o-ring in one corner to hold it more secure. Easy, peasy, and now the fan is not inhibited and the guts of the 2.5" drive's electronics are exposed to airflow. I have a 2TB SSD and a 2TB m.2 drive running mint 22.04 on it, and it works great. Only critique would be for them to make the "SSD COOLER" plate bigger, as it gets heat soaked and I have had thermal throttling while torture testing the m.2 by dumping over a TB of data from the 2.5" drive to the m.2 drive. This caused the machine to become so sluggish as to be unresponsive for a few minutes, and when I opened the case I found that plate was VERY hot. Your cooler solution seems like it would help that, but I prefer to keep the fan and hope the better airflow will prevent future heat soaking and thermal throttling of the drives.
I just got the same model as you, but cannot figure out how you got the SSD Caddy / fan out of the box to get at RAM etc? If you could post or reply, it would GREATLY appreciated! THANKS MUCH in advance! Cheers :)
And how often in real life are you moving a Tb worth of data around on your drives? People keep putting these things in unrealistic scenario's and then whining when they fail. Like sheesh. Its a MINI. Do not expect it to act like a damn server rack capable of massive bandwidth!!!
I modified the SSD mount by 3d printing a complete new part. It offers a way better airflow, the fan has been moved and replaced by a noctua fan and the SSD sits a bit higher so the airflow is way better.
Well, I myself got the SER 5 max 5800H during the BF deals and I immediately went "OK, I surely need to replace the thermal paste with my Noctua NT-H2" but I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have done it because I believe they actually used liquid metal thermal paste which is probably even better than the Noctua I put there and it was a true pain to remove and to clean... I didn't do benchmarks before replacing the thermal paste so I can't even know whether it's better or worse... but I feel the quality of the default thermal paste (liquid metal) was probably top notch. I actually am trying to improve the thermal behavior because it's mostly quiet while web browsing/YouTubing but it can get pretty annoying when the fans start spinning... I'm also disappointed that Ryzen Master can't be used on this CPU... The BIOS don't provide me much options to tinker with the CPU as I would have liked to... Per core undervolting and things like this would have been great. It's only been like four days I'm tinkering with this little machine and I already like it but I feel it will be a challenge to get the best out of it. I'm already trying UXTU to figure out what settings could improve the overall experience, nothing really conclusive so far in 3DMark Time Spy. I'll get 64 GB of RAM tomorrow so I'll be able to compare how it manages to handle 16 GB of VRAM instead of the 4 GB I currently set. This is a fun product anyway =)
Seems a lot of power packed into a very small PC. I bought an inexpensive mini PC (Aerofara Aero 2 Pro) to use as a controller for my laser cutter. It runs Windows 11 Pro and the software I need very well. It was overheating like crazy when I first tested it -- opened the case and found the cooling fan wasn't even plugged in) 🤔🙂 Hope you had a fun Christmas!
I was initially looking at something like the Aero 2 Pro (Intel N5105?), which apparently is a capable CPU, but I'm a bit of a gamer so decided to go for the Ryzen 5600H. Cooling fan not plugged in .. lol. At least it's an easy fix 😆 Christmas was great thank you. I hope yours went well. 👍
Is the audio output low? I got one of these and my headphones aren't loud. They get above medium. Was thinking of messing with the resistors on the Op Amp.
My audio level is okay volume-wise (for me). Not that "rich" if I'm honest. There are external headphone amplifiers at every price point. That might be the better option than going blind at some resistors on the main board? Just a thought.
Hi, great video. Just picked up the SER 5 5600h for my wife as a daily driver, does everything work fine out of the box? (Windows, WIFI in particular). Also, any issues with stability?
I'm going to sound like I work for Beelink, but no... 4 weeks and no issues at all. 🙂(I didn't test the Wifi card though, since I wasn't reviewing it).
So, to be clear, if I want to reduce fan noise I can simply remove that fan panel and it shouldn’t have any material negative effect? I won’t be gaming at all. I was also thinking of leaving the bottom of the unit off and setting it on top of a USB-powered 120mm fan instead that runs constantly and silently.
Nice video, thank you! What is your opinion on the motherboard? I mean, it's the main part that is not from a third party, and I've never seen any reviews on this aspect - especially on its construction quality and durability. Cheers
Giving a solid review on a motherboard is a bit beyond me sorry. I tend to keep PC's for about 4 - 5 years, and I have high confidence this mini will make it to that mark. Cheers for your comment.
:) WELL DONE and THANKS MUCH! I got the model up, BUT HOW did you get the SSD /Fan unit out? as other seem to have same ssd tray... but cannot figure out how you got the SSD Caddy / fan out of the box to get at RAM etc? If you could post or reply, it would GREATLY appreciated! THANKS MUCH in advance! Cheers :)
I'm actually really curious about the machine. Is it possible to install a remote power switch without soldering? Doesn't seem likely from the visual I'm getting of the board.
Great video for a very good mod idea. I'm interesting it doing the same myself. Can you give me more details about the the process and what you used to 'tape' the uncased SSD, please?
Hi, a good video, I have the ser 5 pro with the 5800h, is it normal for my unit to reach 90 degrees in some games? The fan doesn't kick up much at all either when it reaches this, I'm thinking of swapping out the thermal paste maybe it's dried up, what paste would you recommend for true cooling, thanks.
A good thermal paste is going to drop the temps a few degrees only (5 tops?). I used Thermal Grizzly because it has been 1 or 2 in the charts for a while... and I had some. Maybe there are better ones. I swapped it out because that's the way I roll. It definitely wont stop throttling though - Ryzen's run hot.☀
I have a question about the Fan options. Is it possible to fit a noctua NF-A4x10 in it ? I dont need the ssd slot, i want to run my setup only with Nvme but with better Temp's😅
hi, nice video, are you using it as server as well or only gaming? I am planning to replace all my home servers that are today on Raspberry (5 pieces) to merge them all and run on Beelink 5800H. I was wondering if you have any experience with that.
@@megazoid no problem, I put 64GB ram and 2TB internal SSD and 2TB internal nvme and I am testing it as a server, I reduced VIDEO ram in bios to 256 so now almost all 64GB ram belongs to the CPU - not GPU. So far so good, just not sure how to connect the external HDD/SSD for the storage in RAID or so, without reusing NAS- so to build the NAS on this machine
I got mine from www.bee-link.com . I've never used them before, but I order direct from China quite often. 2 week delivery to the UK. I probably should say I have zero links with Beelink and bought the thing with my own money for my own use. :)
It will definitely boots from SSD or off a USB Stick, Linux, Windows etc. You need to look at your BIOS settings. I posted a reply 4 weeks ago about this : Got to the Boot menu tab, and change NVME support to Disable. Change Boot Mode from UEFI to Legacy. You may also need to change the boot order from NVMe to Hard Drive.
What I would like to do is boot from the optional hard drive, but I can't because "Windows Boot Manager" runs on the NVMe drive and takes total charge. The BIOS doesn't even see the optional drive as something that's bootable even though I boot my laptop from it just fine.
I booted Linux off a USB stick no problem. You probably need to get into the Bios options (not just the boot menu). Press Delete when starting to get into the Bios. Got to the Boot menu tab, and change NVME support to Disable. Change Boot Mode from UEFI to Legacy. You may also need to change the boot order from NVMe to Hard Drive (I changed mine to USB key). Save the changes obviously. Then really it should work unless the secondary drive is doing something weird. There is nothing I can see that would stop a dual boot.
@@megazoid Thanks MH. I changed UEFI to Legacy, but I didn't see an option to set NVMe support to disabled. When I booted and hit F7, there was no drive list to choose from. I tried physically disconnecting the NVMe drive, but then it booted into "Shell". The hard drive I'm using is visible in Windows Explorer and it does boot my laptop. I'm using the 5560 Beelink. I think I'm going to make a drive image of the C: I want on my SSD and restore it to the NVME. I have SO much on that C:, and the speed improvement will be nice.
so you are worried about thermals so you remove the only fan on it and make it a completely radiant heat solution with no way for the heat to leave. recall heat rizes. and that is 100% blocked by the MB. I am going to say that the degreed engineer of the product knows more about how to cool the product than what was done here. even a small fan is better than no fan.
I love how everybody is an expert on computers. This video gets loads of comments from back seat drivers, and assorted opinionated numbskulls. 1. It's not the "only fan". 2. A fan with one side of it blocked does nothing. 3. There are reviewers that have said exactly the same thing about the design (e.g. The SSD tray fan sucks). Other reviewers who have said nothing, are the sort of people that only give glowing reviews to keep the freebies chugging in. 4. There are two large mesh covered holes on both side of the case that allow heat out. 5. This is a small amount of heat from the RAM, the M.2, the addition SSD, and whatever else is on one side of the PCB. The CPU is on the other side of the PCB and has it's own blower fan. 6. Previous models didn't even have a SSD tray fan... because it doesn't really need one on that side of the PCB. 7. ua-cam.com/video/FoCDVCkN2ck/v-deo.html 8. Perhaps you would do better to do something more constructive with your time than bother people with your ill thought out opinions.
@@megazoid So your first response is to do a personal attack against me. Why? Because you are insecure in your position, know your logic is flawed and you have no evidence to support anything you did. Instead of proving your mods worked you think you are going to “win” in the comment section by demonizing the viewer. Well, not going to happen and also you missed out on insulting viewer’s leads to less ultimate views. Great job with losing the people that might have watched more of your content. Unlike you, this "numbskull" is multi-degreed and certified in the IT industry with decades in the IT hardware business, including 15 years with my own computer repair business. You know where people actually pay you for your knowledge and ability to repair the computers not where they are in a basement with watching videos and tinkering with a screwdriver and some Kapton tape. What you did was completely antidotal and when addressed your justification is that "oh other reviewers did it to" responses. It just means more clueless people are following the herd. Please provide the viewers with the tests performed before the mods and then after the mods from any of the standard tools that you used to PROVE that your mods were successful. I am sure you did those tests because you are no "numbskull" See quick list * Digital Thermometer * BIOS readings * HWinfo64 * HWMontitor * CPU-Z * GPU-Z * 3dmark FACTS 1) A manufacture is not going to put anything extra into a product than is absolutely necessary. Just because you are too ignorant to understand the purpose of a part does not mean it has no value. You are an outrageous person to think that you know more about that fan in your basement lab than an entire workforce of degreed engineers. It is beyond fathomable that you actually believe a company is going to spend money in designing, sourcing, shipping, building, and putting in a fan that has no value. I don’t think you have a clue how badly you are embarrassing yourself over something you are unqualified to discuss. 2) Anyone that takes a data drive out of its protective casing, tapes it up then leaves it unmounted dangling in a computer has no business opening up a computer case at all because they 100% have no clue about electronics. A data drive is the single most important part in a pc and you have it dangling there. Then you double down and say by adding this massive part to the case you are helping it stay cooler. Do you have any idea how crazy you are sounding? More parts in a case does not equal better airflow. 3) You have shown that you cannot count either. The top has one fan and the bottom has another. In the middle is a solid PCB board so by removing out the fan you have removed out the only fan circulating air in the bottom. Apparently at your genius level you failed 1st grade mathematics. 1-1=0 If you had a clue about moding you would have dremeled out a hole for the fan on the bottom of the case so it had airflow going straight up and into the system but since you think like a cow in the herd it didn’t get into your 1st grade brain. 4) I don’t know who you think you are but you don’t get to decide for me or for anyone else what they do with their time, what value they place on it, what else they should be doing instead, what they think about your video or what they write on a website that YOU do not own. Check your attitude because just like here you just got you’re a** handed to you in a public forum that will be here for years to come. Welcome to your legacy of showing off your ignorance to the world. oh, and since I know the reply is coming go ahead and share your degrees and certs. DA
@@clipperbob960 I couldn't care less who does or doesn't view the channel. It's not a popularity contest. 15 years with computers makes you a rookie in my book, and since you didn't even know there were two fans in this model, and air vent on both sides of the case, your opinion on this video was worthless. I couldn't be bothered to read anything else you said. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
Hi, nice video! I got a beelink Ryzen 7 4700u with 16gb ram (3gb dedicated to video) Anybody knows if that dedicated video would increase if I install more RAM, like 2 x 16gb.. ? Thanks
You guys are funny. Raise your mini PC from a flat service about 3 inches Takes care of the heat build up The computer doesn't throttle back. All day. don't waste your money on heat sinks.
You mean use the laptop as a monitor? Possibly, but 90% of laptop don't have HDMI input as an option. I recommend a normal monitor or a portable monitor to be honest.
THanks-- good video.. I'm going MINI soon too.. have to take care of some medical stuff FIRST.. then do that.. :) I AM getting Beelink though- seems of all the reviews--- it's the best.. (directly from them, yes).... and there are COUPONS available for up to $150 dollars off some of them..
Delivery to the UK was 2 weeks from China. You get no updates from Beelink... then boom it arrives. It's a bit stress inducing, but a money saver. All the best.
Heat resistant and heat retaining aren't the same thing. I tested it with Kapton on and off and there is no discernible difference. While it operates within spec (peak is 64°C), it could perhaps have used some stick on heat sinks.
NVME does indeed get hot. That is why the installed fan plate had the thermal tape on it to transfer the heat to that steel plate. And while the fan may be annoying, even with an ssd in place there is just enough space for it to move all of the air it is sucking up, over the steel plate and out of the case. You do not have to move a lot of air, but you need to move it none the less from an engineering perspective. It also helps keep the ram cooler AND the back of the chipset.
Glad you posted this! That buzzing noise from the little fan was driving me crazy, and I was wondering why reviews were saying the system was “whisper quiet”!! I thought I was going crazy. The earlier revisions of this 5600h system did not include the fan.
I'm glad it helped. Thinking about it a bit more, the little fan probably does help if you don't add an additional SSD. As soon as you do though, it stops making sense (to me anyway). Nice thing about what I did, is it can be reversed easy enough. :)
@@megazoid I added a SATA SSD like you, and then had to remove the SATA SSD’s shell because the NVMe SSD heatsink got in the way. I’m wondering if a SATA extension cable will allow the full SATA shell to fit in another spot.
@@dsi76 I couldn't find a longer ribbon cable, but I think you can get SATA 22Pin Male to Female Extension Cables from Ebay & Amazon. I've not tried them though, and they might be a bit big perhaps?
@@megazoid I’m gonna get a thin copper heatsink so that I can fit the SATA drive back in its casing. It will otherwise get annoying to have to remove the casing every time I upgrade the storage. I have foam double-sided tape that I can use to mount the SATA drive to the base plate.
Love the honesty with the video. I just got mine with 32GB RAM and 1Tb hard drive. Ordered another drive to load Batocera on it.
Contemplating some of your mods, specifically new thermal paste. Ill probably keep the fan for now and see how everything goes. awesome video!!
They are good machines. I would only do things to it if you like tinkering (like me). The benefits are probably negligible.
Well I bought my Beelink ser 5 from Amazon for 289 pounds.
My fan makes zero noise, temp gaming running 68-72 Celsius.
For me it was the best bang for the buck.
Wanted win pro for remote login, did you get win 11 pro
replacing the thermal paste is a great idea I am even thinking of doing the same if i get one.
Ive seen a comment from Beelink on Reddit that says their thermal paste is actually phase changing silicone grease and will always feel hard at room temperature. I cant say whether or not this is true but its one potential explanation. I have a ser5 MAX arriving soon and some of the PTM7950 sheet I ordered a few months ago for my Steam Deck and Asus G14 laptop; im going to repaste the ser5 with it and hopefully be able to set the BIOS TDP from 34W default to 45W or 54W without running into throttling issues. We shall see. Ill mostly be using it with Batocera as an emulation box and some light Steam gaming.
I wish some of the videos actually showed the underside of the board. Realistically, it should be super easy to remove the cooler and heatsink as ive re-pasted various Switch models, my Deck, laptop, etc but its always nice actually seeing the process first.
Beelink themselves did an (almost worthless) video of removing the blower fan (Ser3), but not the copper heat sink (which is something like another 4 screws) : ua-cam.com/video/Lkz3B4KkyTg/v-deo.html . I didn't do a before and after check on iGPU temps so I have no clue if it improved performance. The unit is still working fine though. Good luck.
@@megazoid while before/after can be useful, I've seen a lot of posts that everyone has noticed an improvement using high quality paste vs whatever they're using at the factory. It's a shame that such an inexpensive component is the one they shaved off quality on as the Pro and Max models are great with the higher TDP options but not when thermals become a problem.
Just got the 32gb model, I was surprised by the built-in SSD/caddy cooler. The models I saw on UA-cam a few months ago didn't have it, the SSD caddy was attached by a delicate cable/ribbon. I had a brand new 1tb SSD drive that I had originally planned on using to add a storage drive to an aging laptop. Naturally, I decided to use it with my new Beelink instead (my aging laptop can "suck it," for now.) I was delighted at how easy it was to just pop in the drive (not having to worry about the cable issue, etc.) Easiest computer setup in my life.
Now, you tell me I'm doing it all wrong, LOL. I think I'll just let sleeping dogs lie. I love this thing.
Wait! What's that I hear? Sounds like a computer fan whirling. Funny, I hadn't noticed that before, thanks for bringing it to my attention. 😀
Uh oh... I should have said nothing heh. Everybody is different though, and where you put the mini is also going to be a factor. Mine is mounted behind my monitor and up against a wall. I'm 2 feet from it and the noise reflects off the wall. While the mini fan is certainly not obnoxious, I figured why not play around with it.
Glad you like the Beelink also. It has exceeded my expectations, and I'm difficult to please 😄
Very helpful video! I just took delivery of mine yesterday and mine has the same HDD "cooling tray" that Beelink doesn't show in their own HDD installation tutorial video. I will try to get mine out. Your video taught me a couple of things (like the Captain's Tape - that was new to me, a removing the SSD board from its case - I like that approach). It was also helpful to see the tray removed from the PC as I was having a hard time determining how many screws were holding it in. Otherwise, so far, I really like this rig! Very pleased with the performance and mini format.
I hardly use my other machine now. I thought it might have a problem with video editing, but it seems fine doing that. The second fan is only going to bother some people, so definitely try it out before changing things. Btw it's Kapton tape 😄
just opened mine with 5800H...windows shutdown but still making noise...it was the f...ssd fan...if you don't want to add a 2.5p ssd for internal storage (mine si 32/500 so it's ok) i think remiving this part is a good thing...for the wifi 6 card i'm disappointed...not so great, maybe i will use my old usb3key with a long usb cable..less magnitic fields, better reception
Those plastic SSD cooler plates have started appearing on lots of minis recently - I've had them on three recent Minisforum machines - and they don't make a lot of sense because they probably block more airflow than they create and they get in the way of NVME heatsinks at least the one on my Firecuda drive, anyway. Would a larger, slower fan fit if that plate wasn't there and you drilled out the bottom of the case?
If it's throttling at 70 degrees it might be worth checking the BIOS settings, as processors will happily run much hotter than that.
I made a mistake on the the throttling temps. The 70 degrees (from memory) was the throttling temps on the Vega 7 CU's - the GPU part of the APU. The chip as a whole I think is 90c. I'm surprised to hear about the Minisforum machines. I'll probably go for a Minisforum over a Beelink in the future. I'll check the design before I buy for sure.
@@megazoid Minisforum are cheaper and offer barebones PCs, so they are a good deal. Nothing wrong with these little Beelinks, though; amazing value for money!
Excellent ideas. Im thinking a more efficient fan and a 3D printed base will do the trick. Im getting a Ryzen 7 5800H, 54W so im thinking I want some air flow. Your SSD idea is brillient though!
Finding a way to separate the bottom plate from the computer about 1/16th of an inch would help air flow too. I'm sure there's some sort of bracket or attachment..
Hey! Thanks for this video. My one week old ser5 pro has the same issues. I completely removed the ssd case and cooler and also my thermal paste was really hard and very difficult to remove it. Finally was able to clean everything and change with Arctic mx4 and it seems to me the fan is less audible and it keeps it turned off longer than before.
This is a great video. Oddly, I have the 5800H model ser-PRO (revision?) and it has the ssd caddy but the fan truly is quiet. I know it works as I can fel the heat being exhausted, but seeing what you did with the 2.5" drive inspired me to remove my 2.5" SSD from its case and sticking the board back in with an o-ring in one corner to hold it more secure. Easy, peasy, and now the fan is not inhibited and the guts of the 2.5" drive's electronics are exposed to airflow. I have a 2TB SSD and a 2TB m.2 drive running mint 22.04 on it, and it works great. Only critique would be for them to make the "SSD COOLER" plate bigger, as it gets heat soaked and I have had thermal throttling while torture testing the m.2 by dumping over a TB of data from the 2.5" drive to the m.2 drive. This caused the machine to become so sluggish as to be unresponsive for a few minutes, and when I opened the case I found that plate was VERY hot. Your cooler solution seems like it would help that, but I prefer to keep the fan and hope the better airflow will prevent future heat soaking and thermal throttling of the drives.
I just ordered the Set5 pro 5800H but didn't know it had an SSD cooler. Does it come with the cooler plate?
I just got the same model as you, but cannot figure out how you got the SSD Caddy / fan out of the box to get at RAM etc? If you could post or reply, it would GREATLY appreciated! THANKS MUCH in advance! Cheers :)
And how often in real life are you moving a Tb worth of data around on your drives? People keep putting these things in unrealistic scenario's and then whining when they fail. Like sheesh. Its a MINI. Do not expect it to act like a damn server rack capable of massive bandwidth!!!
@@martykong3592 three smaller screws around the perimeter of the cooler plate.
@@davefroman4700 THanks MUCH! Appreciate it! Cheers :)
I modified the SSD mount by 3d printing a complete new part. It offers a way better airflow, the fan has been moved and replaced by a noctua fan and the SSD sits a bit higher so the airflow is way better.
Do u have some pics of the project?
Well, I myself got the SER 5 max 5800H during the BF deals and I immediately went "OK, I surely need to replace the thermal paste with my Noctua NT-H2" but I'm pretty sure I shouldn't have done it because I believe they actually used liquid metal thermal paste which is probably even better than the Noctua I put there and it was a true pain to remove and to clean...
I didn't do benchmarks before replacing the thermal paste so I can't even know whether it's better or worse... but I feel the quality of the default thermal paste (liquid metal) was probably top notch.
I actually am trying to improve the thermal behavior because it's mostly quiet while web browsing/YouTubing but it can get pretty annoying when the fans start spinning...
I'm also disappointed that Ryzen Master can't be used on this CPU...
The BIOS don't provide me much options to tinker with the CPU as I would have liked to... Per core undervolting and things like this would have been great.
It's only been like four days I'm tinkering with this little machine and I already like it but I feel it will be a challenge to get the best out of it.
I'm already trying UXTU to figure out what settings could improve the overall experience, nothing really conclusive so far in 3DMark Time Spy.
I'll get 64 GB of RAM tomorrow so I'll be able to compare how it manages to handle 16 GB of VRAM instead of the 4 GB I currently set.
This is a fun product anyway =)
Seems a lot of power packed into a very small PC. I bought an inexpensive mini PC (Aerofara Aero 2 Pro) to use as a controller for my laser cutter. It runs Windows 11 Pro and the software I need very well. It was overheating like crazy when I first tested it -- opened the case and found the cooling fan wasn't even plugged in) 🤔🙂 Hope you had a fun Christmas!
I was initially looking at something like the Aero 2 Pro (Intel N5105?), which apparently is a capable CPU, but I'm a bit of a gamer so decided to go for the Ryzen 5600H. Cooling fan not plugged in .. lol. At least it's an easy fix 😆 Christmas was great thank you. I hope yours went well. 👍
Is the audio output low? I got one of these and my headphones aren't loud. They get above medium. Was thinking of messing with the resistors on the Op Amp.
My audio level is okay volume-wise (for me). Not that "rich" if I'm honest. There are external headphone amplifiers at every price point. That might be the better option than going blind at some resistors on the main board? Just a thought.
Hi, great video. Just picked up the SER 5 5600h for my wife as a daily driver, does everything work fine out of the box? (Windows, WIFI in particular).
Also, any issues with stability?
I'm going to sound like I work for Beelink, but no... 4 weeks and no issues at all. 🙂(I didn't test the Wifi card though, since I wasn't reviewing it).
You showed up in my recommendations, and after watching, I subscribed.
Thanks for the sub. I finally hit 💯 !
Its not meant for gaming anyway, I cant understand that all tests seems to concentrate on gaming performance
They have a fw update for those on ser6. Only hear it when games are paused.
So, to be clear, if I want to reduce fan noise I can simply remove that fan panel and it shouldn’t have any material negative effect? I won’t be gaming at all. I was also thinking of leaving the bottom of the unit off and setting it on top of a USB-powered 120mm fan instead that runs constantly and silently.
Nice video, thank you! What is your opinion on the motherboard? I mean, it's the main part that is not from a third party, and I've never seen any reviews on this aspect - especially on its construction quality and durability. Cheers
Giving a solid review on a motherboard is a bit beyond me sorry. I tend to keep PC's for about 4 - 5 years, and I have high confidence this mini will make it to that mark. Cheers for your comment.
:) WELL DONE and THANKS MUCH! I got the model up, BUT HOW did you get the SSD /Fan unit out? as other seem to have same ssd tray... but cannot figure out how you got the SSD Caddy / fan out of the box to get at RAM etc? If you could post or reply, it would GREATLY appreciated! THANKS MUCH in advance! Cheers :)
I'm actually really curious about the machine. Is it possible to install a remote power switch without soldering? Doesn't seem likely from the visual I'm getting of the board.
too bad you did not show how you did it, thanks for the comments anyway
Great video for a very good mod idea. I'm interesting it doing the same myself. Can you give me more details about the the process and what you used to 'tape' the uncased SSD, please?
It's "Kapton Tape". You find it on Amazon or Ebay. I'm not doing step by step instructions though. Proceed at your own risk.
Hi, a good video, I have the ser 5 pro with the 5800h, is it normal for my unit to reach 90 degrees in some games? The fan doesn't kick up much at all either when it reaches this, I'm thinking of swapping out the thermal paste maybe it's dried up, what paste would you recommend for true cooling, thanks.
A good thermal paste is going to drop the temps a few degrees only (5 tops?). I used Thermal Grizzly because it has been 1 or 2 in the charts for a while... and I had some. Maybe there are better ones. I swapped it out because that's the way I roll. It definitely wont stop throttling though - Ryzen's run hot.☀
@@megazoid ok thanks for the quick reply, I'll just have to ramp up the fan in the BIOS then, that should help dissipate the heat for now I guess?
I have a question about the Fan options.
Is it possible to fit a noctua NF-A4x10 in it ?
I dont need the ssd slot, i want to run my setup only with Nvme but with better Temp's😅
hi, nice video, are you using it as server as well or only gaming? I am planning to replace all my home servers that are today on Raspberry (5 pieces) to merge them all and run on Beelink 5800H. I was wondering if you have any experience with that.
Nope, zero server experience. :)
@@megazoid no problem, I put 64GB ram and 2TB internal SSD and 2TB internal nvme and I am testing it as a server, I reduced VIDEO ram in bios to 256 so now almost all 64GB ram belongs to the CPU - not GPU. So far so good, just not sure how to connect the external HDD/SSD for the storage in RAID or so, without reusing NAS- so to build the NAS on this machine
Interesting video. Which website did you order this from?
I got mine from www.bee-link.com . I've never used them before, but I order direct from China quite often. 2 week delivery to the UK. I probably should say I have zero links with Beelink and bought the thing with my own money for my own use. :)
I have one too. Won't boot from SSD. Only nvme.
It will definitely boots from SSD or off a USB Stick, Linux, Windows etc. You need to look at your BIOS settings. I posted a reply 4 weeks ago about this : Got to the Boot menu tab, and change NVME support to Disable. Change Boot Mode from UEFI to Legacy. You may also need to change the boot order from NVMe to Hard Drive.
What I would like to do is boot from the optional hard drive, but I can't because "Windows Boot Manager" runs on the NVMe drive and takes total charge. The BIOS doesn't even see the optional drive as something that's bootable even though I boot my laptop from it just fine.
I booted Linux off a USB stick no problem. You probably need to get into the Bios options (not just the boot menu). Press Delete when starting to get into the Bios. Got to the Boot menu tab, and change NVME support to Disable. Change Boot Mode from UEFI to Legacy. You may also need to change the boot order from NVMe to Hard Drive (I changed mine to USB key). Save the changes obviously. Then really it should work unless the secondary drive is doing something weird. There is nothing I can see that would stop a dual boot.
@@megazoid Thanks MH. I changed UEFI to Legacy, but I didn't see an option to set NVMe support to disabled. When I booted and hit F7, there was no drive list to choose from. I tried physically disconnecting the NVMe drive, but then it booted into "Shell". The hard drive I'm using is visible in Windows Explorer and it does boot my laptop. I'm using the 5560 Beelink. I think I'm going to make a drive image of the C: I want on my SSD and restore it to the NVME. I have SO much on that C:, and the speed improvement will be nice.
if not gaming at all (pro 5800h) can I just remove that fan without changing anything else?
After more 10 mothers of working with it, is the device still a live? Didn't died?
Why would it? I'm using it right now 😆
@@megazoid lol 😂 thanks god, because i saw some companies in youtube and in amazon reviews
Complains *
Air flow is a bit of a science these days I think are you sure it's not doing anything, or drill a few 8-mm holes😂
so you are worried about thermals so you remove the only fan on it and make it a completely radiant heat solution with no way for the heat to leave. recall heat rizes. and that is 100% blocked by the MB. I am going to say that the degreed engineer of the product knows more about how to cool the product than what was done here. even a small fan is better than no fan.
I love how everybody is an expert on computers. This video gets loads of comments from back seat drivers, and assorted opinionated numbskulls.
1. It's not the "only fan".
2. A fan with one side of it blocked does nothing.
3. There are reviewers that have said exactly the same thing about the design (e.g. The SSD tray fan sucks). Other reviewers who have said nothing, are the sort of people that only give glowing reviews to keep the freebies chugging in.
4. There are two large mesh covered holes on both side of the case that allow heat out.
5. This is a small amount of heat from the RAM, the M.2, the addition SSD, and whatever else is on one side of the PCB. The CPU is on the other side of the PCB and has it's own blower fan.
6. Previous models didn't even have a SSD tray fan... because it doesn't really need one on that side of the PCB.
7. ua-cam.com/video/FoCDVCkN2ck/v-deo.html
8. Perhaps you would do better to do something more constructive with your time than bother people with your ill thought out opinions.
@@megazoid
So your first response is to do a personal attack against me. Why? Because you are insecure in your position, know your logic is flawed and you have no evidence to support anything you did. Instead of proving your mods worked you think you are going to “win” in the comment section by demonizing the viewer. Well, not going to happen and also you missed out on insulting viewer’s leads to less ultimate views. Great job with losing the people that might have watched more of your content.
Unlike you, this "numbskull" is multi-degreed and certified in the IT industry with decades in the IT hardware business, including 15 years with my own computer repair business. You know where people actually pay you for your knowledge and ability to repair the computers not where they are in a basement with watching videos and tinkering with a screwdriver and some Kapton tape.
What you did was completely antidotal and when addressed your justification is that "oh other reviewers did it to" responses. It just means more clueless people are following the herd.
Please provide the viewers with the tests performed before the mods and then after the mods from any of the standard tools that you used to PROVE that your mods were successful. I am sure you did those tests because you are no "numbskull" See quick list
* Digital Thermometer
* BIOS readings
* HWinfo64
* HWMontitor
* CPU-Z
* GPU-Z
* 3dmark
FACTS
1) A manufacture is not going to put anything extra into a product than is absolutely necessary. Just because you are too ignorant to understand the purpose of a part does not mean it has no value. You are an outrageous person to think that you know more about that fan in your basement lab than an entire workforce of degreed engineers. It is beyond fathomable that you actually believe a company is going to spend money in designing, sourcing, shipping, building, and putting in a fan that has no value. I don’t think you have a clue how badly you are embarrassing yourself over something you are unqualified to discuss.
2) Anyone that takes a data drive out of its protective casing, tapes it up then leaves it unmounted dangling in a computer has no business opening up a computer case at all because they 100% have no clue about electronics. A data drive is the single most important part in a pc and you have it dangling there. Then you double down and say by adding this massive part to the case you are helping it stay cooler. Do you have any idea how crazy you are sounding? More parts in a case does not equal better airflow.
3) You have shown that you cannot count either. The top has one fan and the bottom has another. In the middle is a solid PCB board so by removing out the fan you have removed out the only fan circulating air in the bottom. Apparently at your genius level you failed 1st grade mathematics. 1-1=0 If you had a clue about moding you would have dremeled out a hole for the fan on the bottom of the case so it had airflow going straight up and into the system but since you think like a cow in the herd it didn’t get into your 1st grade brain.
4) I don’t know who you think you are but you don’t get to decide for me or for anyone else what they do with their time, what value they place on it, what else they should be doing instead, what they think about your video or what they write on a website that YOU do not own. Check your attitude because just like here you just got you’re a** handed to you in a public forum that will be here for years to come. Welcome to your legacy of showing off your ignorance to the world. oh, and since I know the reply is coming go ahead and share your degrees and certs. DA
@@clipperbob960 I couldn't care less who does or doesn't view the channel. It's not a popularity contest. 15 years with computers makes you a rookie in my book, and since you didn't even know there were two fans in this model, and air vent on both sides of the case, your opinion on this video was worthless. I couldn't be bothered to read anything else you said. Don't forget to like and subscribe.
Hi, nice video! I got a beelink Ryzen 7 4700u with 16gb ram (3gb dedicated to video) Anybody knows if that dedicated video would increase if I install more RAM, like 2 x 16gb.. ? Thanks
you can change that in the BIOS and it has a huge impact on the gaming performance.
can you mod the beelink 6600h?
You guys are funny. Raise your mini PC from a flat service about 3 inches Takes care of the heat build up The computer doesn't throttle back. All day. don't waste your money on heat sinks.
can mini pc connected on laptop and run?
You mean use the laptop as a monitor? Possibly, but 90% of laptop don't have HDMI input as an option. I recommend a normal monitor or a portable monitor to be honest.
I was thinking that i can still bring the mini pc with my laptop on travels. And can be use even without desktop monitor.
Undervolt it
THanks-- good video.. I'm going MINI soon too.. have to take care of some medical stuff FIRST.. then do that.. :) I AM getting Beelink though- seems of all the reviews--- it's the best.. (directly from them, yes).... and there are COUPONS available for up to $150 dollars off some of them..
Delivery to the UK was 2 weeks from China. You get no updates from Beelink... then boom it arrives. It's a bit stress inducing, but a money saver. All the best.
so you put heat resistant tape on top of chips that are going to get hot and trapping the heat under the tape. prob not the best idea.
Heat resistant and heat retaining aren't the same thing. I tested it with Kapton on and off and there is no discernible difference. While it operates within spec (peak is 64°C), it could perhaps have used some stick on heat sinks.