Just found and watched your video, ive been debating on rebuilding my own transmission and your video has been the most informative video ive watched. Other rebuilders were not as detailed or informative thank you sir for being very detailed and explaining what to look for and what to upgrade to for better performance and durability. I will definitely be watching the rebuild. Again thank you sir.
Thank you for the kind words, David! I'll be posting some 'special tool' videos over the next couple weeks showing the transmission-specific tools I use to rebuild the units I work on, including the 700R4/4L60E so look out for those...If you run into a jam, post a question and I'll respond as soon as I can.
@@nickstransmissions what do you think about the Turbo 350 hi energy green deluxe transmission rebuild kit from ebay and it costs $235.00 ? for my 77 c10
Those are good kits...I really like the Alto friction modules that come with them...The kit will probably come with a plastic seal for the output shaft's snout...I have been using them in place of bushings as I think they seal a bit better...
Your videos are excellent, and much appreciated. I'm going to rebuild a 700r4 (1988) for durability, as my motor will be a 500rpm street only cruiser. Your vids have given me the incentive to do it myself. Haven't built a car in 30 years, so again, thanks for the good info. Cheers :)
Man that's what I'm talking about. You know your stuff, very impressed. It's amazing how all that works together. Definitely more complicated than my little C6 lol. I know that was a lot of trouble doing that video. I haven't seen another channel like this. For what it's worth I shared this channel with my son he's just starting out in automotive repair he currently works at a ford dealer and has got the trans guys watching your channel. When you can, the next trans you should do is 6L80... holy crap what a mess. Thanks again for your trouble.
Starting with my rebuilt, I sanded the case base with a rigid piece of glass + a 360 sand. Before sanding, I put a bit of paint with a little roller in top of case's walls, like a sand guide. Whit this procedure, it was possible to see the most minimal differences in case walls levels (mainly, lower in the center area) and correct it, with aprox. 15 or 20 minutes sanding.
glad for the vid. will be rebuilding one this winter. have done 1 4l60e with success, so its the 700r4 valve body that im studying out of a 92 chevy truck as ive read that they are different
Cool Randy - nice thing about the 700 and 4L60Es is the case architecture is identical. Only major differences are the valve body / solenoids in the 4L60E vs governor/TV cable of the 700s. All 700R4 valve bodies made from 1988-1992 are identical...1993 valve bodies are different (they only went into F-bodies and Corvettes in that year). All 700R4 valve bodies made from 1982-1986 are the same and all valve bodies made in 1987 are the same. You can install any year valve body in your 92. I install 1982-1986 valve bodies in 1987-1992 700r4s for folks doing resto-mods/hot rods where they're swapping out things like TH350s and 400s to get overdrive but don't want to mess with any electrical work to lock the torque converter. the 1982-86 valve bodies have a TCC mechanical lock up control valve whereas the 1988-93 valve bodies do not.
we got everything right, first attempt on the 4l60e EXCEPT for the boost valve snap ring.. pulled the trans out, and it was hanging down,, I didnt think that the boost valve was accassable without pulling the trans,, thats a mistake that will NEVER happen again., why they have that lower groove in the pump housing below the groove that the snap ring actually goes in is a mystery to me, but im sure its tripped many a novice builder up. different subject, on a 4l60e, have u ever heard of this.. you take an unneeded servo cover off a junkyard engine, grind the top off where you would grab it with pliers to take it off.. install everything in the servo bore, and put the modified servo cover on,, then you can push the servo pin in to see how much clearance you have?
being 54, I wondered abt how automatic transmissions worked for many years, and finally got the confidence to open one up, and they are fascinating indeed.. if I wasnt retired, I would strongly consider rebuilding them for a business. what im doing now is buying the gmt400 platform trucks that have bad transmissions in them, rebuilding the transmissions, fixing them up, and selling them for a hobby. the 92 I recently bought is said to have had someone go into it 3 times in the last 4 years, so im going to have to really be vigilant in checking everything that is inside, or not inside. your vids will help tremendously,, thanks
Sucks - sorry to hear; I hate when that shit happens (and has happened to me more times then I care to remember, haha)...In L2006, GM began installing a turbine speed sensor into the 4L60/65/70Es and thus you could no longer access the boost valve from under the trans. You have to take the trans out, remove the pump to replace the sensor or boost valve. And there's no way to tell which 2006 units have them unless you remove the pan and look. Re your servo question: No need to grind the cover...Just use yours, install the assembly w/spring but leave all the o-rings and seal off. Then measure your travel either by pushing it in and measuring w/a ruler or mount a dial indicator and push the cover in w/a large drift punch or hammer handle (or your hands, whatever fits and doesnt interfere w/the indicator). Sonnax has instructions for taking the measurements...works on all servos: d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/2486/77911-03K-IN.pdf?v=1665514848835.
You're welcome, man! Glad to hear they are helping you. GMT400s are becoming more and more popular so good on you for learning how to rebuild so you can make some $$$ and eliminate your dependency on transmission shops.
I watched this video intently , due to the fact that my 92 Chevy Suburban K1500 4X4 ( 350 v8 stock w / 700 R4 ) just gave me trans problems " YET - AGAIN " !! I installed a GM GOOD WRENCH REBUILT TRANS bought from the GMC dealer we had a parts account with for our fleet of GMC's Top Kicks at the Excavating Co. This was April 2015 , at the same time I installed a ( DERALE deep pan with the cooling tubes ) and a ( B&M SUPER COOLER behind the grille ) w/ the stainless steel cooling lines going straight to it / eliminating the radiator cooler ) I am the only one driving it , do " NOT " tow with it , and I am a diesel mechanic by trade on MACK TRUCKS , and have changed the oil & filter kit ( RELIGOUSLY every 12,000 miles ) . ( I NOW HAVE 61,000 MILES + ON IT ) & HERE I AM AGAIN WITH ISSUES ??? I just started having shifting issues with it on the 1-2 shift , but if you let off the throttle & back on , it shifted up through the gears & lock up converter . OIL PINK LIKE NEW / NO SMELL / NO BROWN / NO NOTHIN ???? Took it to the trans shop , they said it has " NO " 2nd GEAR ??? ( THE BAND ) OF COURSE THEY ONLY WANT TO " REBUILD THE ENTIRE TRANS " and I am in Florida away from PA. !!! From watching your video intently , sounds like that ( SERVO 2 - 4 PISTON SEAL ) gave up and stopped applying the ( BAND )? I first checked the " TV " CABLE , for proper adjustment , and found it to be very good , I did try moving it slightly forward & back from the original position , with a quick test drive , ( NO DIFFERENCE ) put back to original spot ( marked w/ paint pen ) . I have given that 700 R4 the best life I could , and yet here I sit , AFTER ONLY 61,000 + MILES ?????? I told this very same story to the trans shop owner , said if there are updates to keep that trans " BULLET PROOF " BY ALL MEANS DO IT !!!!!!! ( THEY COULD CARE LESS ) !! ANY THOUGHTS FROM YOU WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, WILL NOT PIT YOU AGAINST THEM , BUT I CAN'T KEEP PUTTING A TRANS IN THIS THING EVERY COUPLE YEARS !!!!! I HAVE OWNED THE TRUCK FOR 20 + YEARS AND THE TRUCK IS CLEAN , NOT GETTING RID OF IT ANY TIME SOON !!!! SURE WOULD APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS ! HOPE TO HEAR FROM YA SOON !! THANKS PAUL P.S. I SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL , I WISH I HAD DONE MORE WITH AUTO TRANS , INSTEAD OF MACK TRUCKS BUT I AM STILL LEARNING WATCHING YOUR SHOW , KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS !!
Hi Paul, thank you for subscribing and watching! Does the transmission not shift into 2nd gear at all - does it shift into 3rd then 4th? or is it slipping into 2nd gear? If it doesn't have 2nd gear at all but does have 4th gear, the band is likely not the issue however it can be if it's just worn enough to slip or neutral in 2nd but apply in 4th when both servo pistons are applied. When in 2nd gear, only the second gear servo piston applied which is like holding something with only one hand instead of two (the 'second hand' being the fourth apply piston).
@@nickstransmissions NICK , thankyou for your quick response !! I will tell you the exact way this all went down , I was heading to Daytona Beach area of Florida from the Philly area when this all occurred , trans was not slipping far as I am concerned , only problem was it would not shift into 2nd gear unless you let off the throttle then re - applied throttle . then it would go up through the gears into fourth then the lockup converter would apply as well ,. I would then set the cruise control for 74 mph on I -95 south bound towards Florida (NOTE # A 16 HOUR RUN) as far as I am concerned , I counted what I believe to be 4 shifts !!!! As stated earlier, got to Daytona and checked fluid constantly on way down & arrival , pink like new / no smell / no brown / no nothin ???? re - adjusted the TV cable several times to test for out of adjustment, quick hops ( NO DIFFERENCE ) ?? Made appointment with LOCAL REPUTABLE TRANS SHOP, " 2 WEEKS OUT " ( THAT BUSY ) !! August 6 , dropped it off , got a " TEXT " 2 HOURS LATER from secretary stating ; (1) no 2nd gear (2) $ 2500 - $ 2700 COMPLETE REBUILD !!!!!!!! ?????????????? Drove over talked to secretary ( knows nothing) asked to speak to owner & go for test drive with him ?? He came to office stated ( NO SECOND GEAR / when I shift it manually from 1st to 2nd nothing there !!!!??????? I SAID ; I did not shift thru the gears 1 by 1 BUT , I counted all the gears & I find nothing in oil to indicate burnt band ???? HIS SHOP IS VERY SMALL / VERY BUSY/ IN A SMALL TOWN / !! I HAVE BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY 45+ YEARS AND I COUNTED ALL THE GEARS & NEVER " SLIPPED " JUST DID NOT SHIFT WITHOUT OFF THROTTLE / ON THROTTLE . NOTE # CAME FROM PHILLY TO DAYTONA NEVER QUIT !!!?????????? MORAL TO THIS STORY ; HE IS SO BUSY , HE DOES NOT EVEN HAVE 2 MINUTES TO THINK ABOUT IT ???????? PULL IT , REBUILD IT , GET IT THE ( F..... OUTA A HERE ) !!!!!!!!! I FEAR ; THIS IS THE WAY ( MOST TRANS SHOPS OPERATE ) AT THE " CUSTOMERS - EXPENSE " !!!!!! THAT IS WHY ; I was watching your videos , I do believe I am being " LIED TO " !!!!!!! AND AFTER WATCHING YOUR 700 R 4 TEAR DOWN & EXPLANATION , I THINK I AM RIGHT ON THE WAY THIS GUY OPERATES ?????? I ONLY WISH I WERE WRONG !!!! THANKS PAUL
Yea, he could very well have thrown the "it needs a rebuild" out there to see if you'd bite, figuring he really doesn't have anything to lose given how busy he is...Just a guess...I taught myself how to rebuild these things so as to avoid that entire cycle of uncertainty/feeling you're being deceived, etc. If you have four forward gears but you have to let off to shift into 2nd gear, the first thing I would do is a line pressure test to validate the TV cable is, in fact, adjusted correctly and that the cable itself is able to retain it's adjustment (over the years they wear out and lose the ability to keep TV adjustments which can lead to gradual line pressure degradation inside the transmission. Next, I'd pull the servo out of the case and inspect it for any unusual wear, excessively worn sealing rings, etc - then go from there based on what you find.
@@nickstransmissions 10 /4 !! my thoughts exactly, you try to get across to the guy , that I can't keep rebuilding these transmissions ( EVERY TIME THE ASH TRAYS GET FULL ) but like I said in the first comment, ( he could care less ) !! was just watching your video on the valve body re - assembly , reminds me of rebuilding a " JAKE - BRAKE " on a MACK E-6 or E-7 with the slave pistons ,& hand fitting everything for smooth operation !! The last thing you want is to have to take that thing back apart again !! PATIENCE - IS - A - VIRTUE !!!!! THANKS PAUL
Thanks for posting… I have a 700r 1991 and it’s clunking in reverse and doesn’t feel like it’s fully engaging only in reverse. 91 camaro maybe cable adjustment?
Thank you for watching, LRadman...Not a cable adjustment issue...otherwise, you'd have noticed drivability symptoms in your forward gears (slipping, neutral conditions, etc especially in 3rd). Reverse delayed engagements are typically caused by wear in the square cut seals on the low reverse piston at the back of the case. This causes the pack to either not fully apply or slip/burn (or both)...You could also have a reverse input clutch failure but that's less likely...Most of the time it's the low-reverse piston seals wearing/hardening and allowing apply fluid to blow by instead of applying the piston when in reverse.
@@nickstransmissions thank you so much for replying, I have been trying to find answers for a while. No real problems in any other gears but also when I put it in park the car will roll back or forward a hood 6-7 inches before the trans catches. The clunking is bad when first reversing and slowly goes away as the car (91 camaro) gets some momentum. Tried to back it up onto some patio stones about 3 inches high off the ground and it didn’t like it- clunked alot and it got faster with rpm, backing up a hill does the same thing- grabs a little bit, clunks a lot eventually will go with momentum 😬
The clunk is likely your driveshaft making contact with the base of the output shaft - they have some built-in play to allow for changing pinion angles and that's critical on F-body and similar platforms that ride low to the ground. If the 'clunk' is beyond just that (i.e. you're already aware of the normal driveline clunk) then trans likely has to come out as the rev input drum female lugs are likely worn and/or anti-clunk spring at the center support may have broken (very rare but seen it a couple times)
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for the great advice, I am not aware of the driveshaft issue and will check for that 🤞. Could that also be the issue with the rolling back and forth play when put in park?
Rolling a bit on a grade is normal. As long as you eventually go into park, you're fine...One thing I'd do is pump the brakes whenever parking on an incline or decline so that the full weight of the car doesn't slam into the parking pawl...If the pawl breaks, you will lose the ability to put the car in park; the trans would have to come out and be replaced. Please sub if you haven't already - ill be doing some more 700R4 vids in the very near future.
Hi, thanks for watching! The workaround for the press is to take the bushings and parts that require them to a transmission shop and have the shop R&R the bushings...Some shops will do so for around $150-$200 while others won't. By time. If you don't invest in the press, you may find yourself back in the same position (needing a press) for the next repair vs just investing the money on a good press...No serious DYI'er should be without a multimeter, scan tool and shop press (in addition to all the basic/obvious tools) in my opinion.... That said, you can find very cost effective work arounds for the sealing ring resizing tools that you'd otherwise need...Purchase some appropriately sized hose clamps (including a big one for doing pump alignment) and then go on Amazon and search 'Rubber sheets' - buy a pack of three 8X10 inch rubber sheets (appx 1/8" thick) and cut sections out to place inside your hose clamps to protect the sealing rings from the hose clamp's tightening mechanism. That will cost about $15-$20 and save you about $100-$150 in ring resizer and special alignment tools. Spend another $40 on a universal clutch return spring compressor tool and you should have what you need to assemble the transmission. User feeler gauges on clutch packs for clearance and a dial indicator for end play measurement.
Are referring to a generic shop press? I get that DIY people should have one. I'm referring to the specialty press you have at 1:30. A great video you could make is to rebuild a trans with DIY tools@@nickstransmissions
I would wager most of your how to views are from DIY first timers. Regarding tools I would also include homemade tools if need be. Alot of DIY's have fab skills and would be willing to cobble together something for single use
You're referring to the foot press...You used the term 'press' so figured you referring to the shop press. Yes, if you don't want to spend $$$ on the foot press, grab either a vise mounted universal compressor tool or a stand-along compressor tool. Funny (in a good way) that you're asking for a vid for DYI special transmission building tools, lower cost substitutes, that work just as well, if not better, (for example, see my above response to your first question) and workarounds. I'm in the process of putting together the content for such a video literally as we speak (hence why I'm responding so quickly to your comments as I at the computer). I'm not a fabricator but a great many of you who watch are and very handy/creative so you all can make the tools you need for significantly less than what I spend to buy them. Please subscribe if you haven't already as those and more vids will be coming out very soon.
Cool! I look forward to it. I'm in the process of setting up a 700r4 swap. I made a Torque Converter lip seal driver out of scrap exhaust pipe, a big washer and a bolt welded together. i ask this stuff so that when my second hand trans goes south I can rebuild it. One last suggestion would be to collaborate with a fabricator(garage cobbler) who can weld etc to design a cheap tool recipe for us frugal types. might be to weld a quick and crude adapter for and engine stand to hold the case. If you made a video from that perspective it would be a real hit. Example @@nickstransmissions
Hey Nick, sorry to keep bothering you, Sonnax wants me to plug that tiny little PWM hole in my Seperator plate (4L60E) what will that do? also what do you use to stop the 3-2 kick down valve from moving? I dont have a tight wound Purple spring, and is it necessary to block the 3-2 solenoid, if so what should i use? Walter
I am rebuilding an 83 700 R4 for my rebuilt 425 hp 400 SBC. Should I be worried about my 27 spline stator/ pump? Can I simply replace my 27 spline stator with a 30 spline stator or do I have to replace the whole pump? Thank you!
What's up govsux (love the username) - Yes, I would upgrade to a 303/304 body/cover-stator combination, fully remanufactured/resurfaced, etc...Those numbers refer to the last three digits of the casting no. for each part. The 27 spline input shafts in 82-E84 700R4s are weak and won't last too long in your application... Ironically enough, the 200-4R input shaft, which also has 27 splines is good to 500HP for the 2nd design shaft (the first design is good to about 400 or so).
Is it a pretty big job to drop the pan and get the selector seal out, when the transmission is still in the vehicle? Everyone seems to be doing that job with the transmission already out.
Hi Enermax, it's not difficult at all takes a half hour to an hour depending upon how fast you work. Just need a 15mm open ended wrench for the nut and a small prybar to take out the seal. There's a special collet style tool that removes the seal with the selector still installed so no need to drop the pan. You take out the seal w/the tool the use a 15mm deep socket to install the new one. With the tool, the task is done in 15 minutes or less.
@@nickstransmissions Unfortunately I don't have room to use the tool adequately. So I was looking at dropping the pan to get at it, if it's not a big job to do it that way.
Yea, it's no biggie to drop the pan..if you're handy w/a welder and have an appropriately sized nut for a factory drain plug, you can drill a hole in the bottom of the pan once it's off and install a drain plug w/the nut welded on the inside of the pan... Once the pan's off, at some point closely inspect the threads on all the pan bolt holes. Many 700R4s and 4L60Es have partially stripped threads that won't hold torque when you go to put the pan back on and tighten everything to spec. So will want to helicoil repair them when the pan is off. Tighten that rooster comb nut really well...They can come loose if not synched down good. When you put the pan back on, torque all bolts to 98 inch lbs.
@@nickstransmissions No need to remove the valve body? Looks like there's a little lever/shaft that goes into the rooster comb. Maybe that lever won't come out unless you remove the valve body?
Nope, vb can stay untouched. The little linkage arm that connects the manual valve and rooster comb doesnt need to be removed. Simply take loose the rooster comb/selector shaft nut then push the shaft out of the case. The little linkage arm may hold the rooster comb in place or it may fall out. If the rooster comb falls and little arm comes out of the manual valve, simply put it back in whem you're ready.
@30:41, what happens if you run the transmission without that transfer tube installed? Sorry if I offended you Nick, I'm not a troll...I did a 2/3's rebuild on my first transmission due to my inexperience & fear...took a chance on the piston lips seals being ok, due to the fact it was rebuild in mid-2022 and they were. Truck is running nice. I completed my second rebuild on my back-up 700R4 (that was owned by others-raced) and this time comprressed and did the outer-inner lips seals and then air-tested the drum with 30 to 15 PSI. This particular transmission was driven without a transfer tube...and I can't find any information on what happens if this tube is not installed...performance or otherwise. Actually i think you answered my question at 33:39...the vane pump feeding the auxilary valve body via the tranfer tube gave it smoother shift into forward gear...without the transfer pipe...it'll shift hard.
Good question, I never ran one without that tube installed, if it's supposed to be there...My guess is no forward movement since everything routes through that pipe. Also, I know you're not a troll...I've had to ban a few trolls from the channel, none of your comments or questions are even remotely close to troll-like...Thanks for watching, man!
im currently working on 1985 7004r looks like they installer 2nd generation valve body lost 3/4 when i took pump out band was totaly disengaged what would cause this evevttig is pristine
Thanks for watching, Greg...Hmmm...I've never installed a second design VB onto an early, non-aux vb case. Did the trans function at all with that valve body? As far as the band being dislodged, was the band anchor pin damaged in some way? Any damage to the case at the pin bore? Are you sure it was dislodged prior to you pulling the pump out (sometimes the band will come off the anchor pin as the pump is being removed).
Yes you can install the 716 drum but be warned - as I mentioned in the video, the pre-aux 700R4s had a 3mm diameter orifice for the forward clutch owing to the fact there was no accumulator present...That orifice was changed to 6mm in the 097 and 716 drums so the vehicle's garage engagement into Drive may be very harsh as those two drums were intended to work with a forward accumulator circuit.
Nick my first $240. (Borg-Warner kit) 700R4 transmission rebuild was a success. Did a 2/3's rebuild. I knew the piston 0-rings had been rebuilt a year early in 2022 and took a chance that they were still ok and they were....Transmission was responsive when placed in gear (before it was pulled) and I had burnt up the 3-4 clutch pack due to towing in 4th, with misadjusted TV detent cable. Now, I'm starting my second 700R4 rebuild, that has more issues, biggest being DELAY when placed into any rear, reverse or forward and when shifting...DELAY before it goes into gear, like the transmission has to build up fluid pressure. Transmission only slips in 3rd/4th but has delays into gears. What area should I be focused on for this ENGAGEMENT DELAY, acts like i have low fluid pressure everywhere in this second transmission. Would that delay be caused mainly by the vane-pump?, or loss of pressure in a piston o-ring? and which piston o-ring/s would you suspect for engagement delay in reverse and 1st-starting? Also, had issues sending in my donation online...do you have a P.O. box address? You saved me a lot of money with your tutorials.
Sorry to hear of those issues, man...When you say 'Piston o-rings being rebuilt' what you referring to? Sealing rings, lip seals, rubber o-rings on the accumulator pistons are not rebuilt, just replaced. Is the transmission filled to capacity, showing full-hot when at operating temp? What were your line pressures at idle on this 2nd transmission? What were your pump rotor-deck and slide-deck clearances in the pump? What happened with this transmission to require overhaul initially? What year 700R4? I need to know more, including answers to all of the above, before I can do more than just guess because it could be any number of things.
@@nickstransmissions My first transmission 1989 i rebuilt was a success- done with that one, been drivig for two weeks on it, love it, works great- like new. Now,i'm going to open up the second 700R4 (unknown year, never been inside, but was rebuilt by someone previously) that has shift delay issues which I have used as a back up transmission. i have no way to measure line pressure, not that sophisticated. I was just wondering...on this back-up transmission that was in the truck recently (pulled)... there was a 2 or 3 second delay in putting it into first or reverse, either drive gear huge delay before engagement like the fluid pressure is low. I'm just trying to get a tip or your expertise on where you would think the issue exists befoe i go in for the rebuild...would it be the pump or the piston lips-inner seals...and which ones would control both forward and reverse?
@@nickstransmissions yes, transmisson was filled to capacity...trying to figure out the delay on engagement...reverse or forward...where to look and what to look for....before i go in to operate- surgery. Give me your first , second and thrid places....ranked in order what is most likely the cause of the delayed engagement...in first and reverse...acting the same exact way.
@@nickstransmissions This unknown transmission was owned by a youngster that raced it w/ a 2300 stall converter...and then went to a stage 3. He said it was rebuilt a year earlier...but it always had a delay like the fluid pressre was low. I got a good deal on it $450. so i went with it...used it for a year and 3-4 clutch pack started to slip. i serviced it 3 times, new fluid..filter, made no difference.
I thought the load springs were there to solve the nascent timing issue during a 3-2 kickdown downshift, when the band applies before the 3-4 releases, causing the latter to bind-up and hence burn up. The other question - can you put in a 13 vane late 4L60E pump assembly and what are the benefits of that? Finally in the introduction, you missed out that somewhere in 1991-1993 period the 7004R got renamed the 4L60 (no E), which adds more confusion than clarity.
Hi Shalash87, the load release springs were installed primarily to prevent centrifugal apply when driving through the 3-4s in first and second gear, especially at higher rpm though they probably play a minor role in preventing tie-ups as well. That said, the spacer plate hole sizes for clutch feeds and band releases combined with mechanical calibration of the valve body’s shift valve trains are the primary methods for keeping the timing in synch. Go real lopsided on those hole size’s between feed and exhaust and a tie up is all but guaranteed. No major benefits to retroing a 13-vane pump into a 10-vane trans as the additional vane count was increased primarily to make the pump quieter at part throttle. In fact, those pump rotors are technically weaker than 10 vanes and I believe mods have to be made to the pump cover for it to work. The 10 vane pump moves sufficient volume and does its job well. I recommend billet rotors when rpms are expected to exceed 5k on a regular basis. Otherwise they aren’t necessary either. Lastly, im sure i missed a bunch of things in that tear down video, only so much to cram in but I will do topical videos on the first two things you’re asking about as they are commonly discussed but there’s still not a ton of clarity out there on either topic. Thanks again for watching and your feedback!
Any particular reason why mine won’t shift out of park? I have the pan off my 90 Suburban and the part where the shift linkage attaches, the selector won’t move at all. I’ve done some research and people say it’s usually the parking lock accumulator so I ordered a new one. Is the what it could be? There was no metal at all when I took the pan off and it was shifting flawlessly. No it’s just stuck and won’t shift into any gear.
Hi Deep Roots, thank you for watching. I wouldnt trust any sources you've been using in your research that mention a "parking lock accumulator" because there is no such thing. So I am not sure what part you actually ordered but more than likely, it's not going to be what you need. Did you disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission before trying to move the selector shaft?
@@nickstransmissions yes I did. I’m looking at a diagram of a 700r4. I ordered the “actuator assembly parking lock,” it connects to the “lever inside detent” and pushes the “spring parking pawl return.” It’s basically a rod with a spring at the end.
Ok, that makes more sense...You orderded the parking rod assembly, which should fix your issue if the one in there has failed in some way, preventing you from moving the selector. Was thinking you ordered an accumulator piston...
Hi EMIX1965 - What uncommon upshift to 2nd issue? I may have mentioned something in the video but it was produced months ago so if you would explain your issue in some detail I can try to help you.
Hey Nick, again great videos. my question is when air checking the forward drum for bubbles, is there an allowable amount of bubbles or is it absolutely no bubbles period. I get a small stream of bubbles when checking the 3-4 feed and the forward feed.
Thanks, Kevin. If I see any bubbles, I replace the drum assembly...For me it's not worth taking the risk...Your call but if it were me, that drum wouldn't be going back in.
Im not sure those drums are still in production but if/when i need a replacement, ill buy from my local parts supplier. You can also check out Cope Racing's 4L78 drum which is like a moderate to high performance upgrade and i believe accommodates 8 or 9 clutches in the 3-4 pack. It comes empty as a bare drum (you need to press in your current input shaft).
I have an 83 with the weak 27 spline input shaft / drum. Can I just replace with a 30 spline shaft / drum or do I need to replace the pump and or the TC also? Thx! Great videos! I subscribed 👍
A while back, I had a 91 700r4 "rebuilt". I chose the wrong shop in Red Lion Pa. After $1800 buck rebuild, it blew 9 months later. Unfortunately, in that 9 month period, the owner had a stroke and closed the shop, leaving many customers like me in a bad place. How much should a full better than stock rebuild cost? I heard a pop noise and lost all gears. 1991 C1500 2wd Silverado. This looks really complicated. You know your stuff, saw the Eagles sweatshirt. Are you in Pa? Looking for a good guy for a rebuild, and you Sir are good. Fascinating video.
Hi Jeff, thank you for watching and sorry to hear that shit happened...Yes, I'm originally from outside Philly (Lansdale) and same shit happened to me for roughly the same amount of money. That drove me to teach myself how to build transmissions so it would never happen again and a big reason why I started this channel...Here's my take on the 700R4 when it comes to rebuild profile: They all should come with some basic upgrades, including: 1. 97+ 4L60E bonded steel/rubber pistons and return spring 2. .472 / .390 boost and reverse boost valve 3. Transgo SK700Jr Shift kit (line bias and 3-2 control valves blocked for high performance) 4. 3-4 clutch clearance set to .030-.050 - no load release springs in anything 88+ 5. Sonnax TV valve sleeve and plunger kit 6. Corvette 2nd gear servo 7. Any 82-E84 units upgraded with a L84-86 pump and input drum 8. Pump and Rev Input Drum reconditioning/machining as needed I only do bench builds which does not include removal, reinstallation, fluid, TV set up and adjustment but my typical 700R4 usually runs around $1450-1500 or so.
@@DenisVassiliu Hi Denis, you can usually find them on eBay, Amazon or your local hard parts supplier...You can also check Transstar.com for a distributor in your area where you can purchase parts in person.
O.K, but what are Sonnax or TransGo, part numbers or kits for these parts? I did a search and I can't see a .390 reverse valve for sale. Only .300. It's OK ?
The .300 rev boost valve should be fine for most applications...You can visit Sonnax's and Transgo's websites for all part numbers, plus both provide detailed instructions for installation on every part or kit they have available.
Excellent video. I used this to help with my teardown of my 1990 Camaro 700R4 and it certainly was very useful. I didn't see anything related to case inspection for cracks though. I have quite a bit of radial cracks in the tail shaft side of the case inside. Not sure if these are "normal" casting stress fractures or cracks I should be concerned with and discard the case for. I would love your opinion on this cracking, is any amount of crack lines reason for abandoning the rebuild? I tried to post a picture but couldn't find an easy way to do it.
Hi Jim, Thank you for watching and the kind words. Most of the time the 'cracks' you see in the case are simply byproducts of the casting process so if it is dry in the location where you're seeing the 'cracks' they are almost certainly not cracks....You can check by pouring some transmission fluid either into the area inside to see if it drips through or on the outside to see if you spot seepage into the case in that location, to be sure... Also, I don't typically click on any links to GDrive folders or other links to personal repositories and I'm not sure if you can actually post an image in the comments on UA-cam... What you can do is shoot a short video of the cracks, upload to UA-cam and reply with the link to your video here and I'll take a look. Just make sure your camera's focus is sharp and you have good lighting (i.e. no overly dark areas or high contrast between light and shadow on the areas of the cracks as will make it difficult to see).
Can you dispell or verify a rummer that I hear quite often? A lot of people say that a 700r4 that was originally behind a smaller engine, (regardless of year model,) like a 6 cylinder or 305 was built weaker and should not be considered for use/upgrade behind a motor that has increased HP. Personally, I don't think the assembly plants went to that much trouble to have different transmissions for each model, and I haven't seen any part differences in my researching, but many people do. I'm old and could be wrong. Thanks, John
Hi John, the 1982-E84 700R4s were markedly weaker and less reliable than follow-on iterations and IMO, it's those earlier years that are primarily responsible for the 700's reputation for being a weak transmission. For anyone working on an 82-E84 700, it's recommended the swap in a pump assembly and input drum from a L84-87 700R4 to eliminate the short comings of those early 700s. When properly built, any L84+ 700R4 and 4L60E can hold some power and perform (check out my various videos on 700R4s) - my 'base' 700 package is good to go for anything up to about 350-375 horse in a mild to moderate street strip application. Additional, upgraded parts and procedures can bring it to nearly double that figure before you run into the design limits of what the unit is capable of, even if you had an infinite amount of money to spend on parts, etc.
I have 86 out of a Impala I had built I got 2000 miles on it and now it won't shift till about 4500 hundred rpms any idea what's wrong it's in a 86 monte
Hi, thanks for watching! 700R4 or 200-4R? Probably governor...Has it been shifting normally since the rebuild until now? Did you check the governor gear for stripped teeth? Was the governor and/or governor gear replaced as part of the rebuild? Hows fluid level and smell?
Love your videos, I have an 84 700r4. I had it rebuilt came back great working but less the 200km later it is haveing trouble shifting al of a sudden! I have to run the gear out and give it gas pedal a blip then it shifts ! any idea what is going on???
Thanks for the kind words, FS! Check the TV cable adjustment by doing a pressure test, if you haven't done so already. If the cable was not set up correctly, you'll have issues shifting as line pressure will not be optimal. Here's a link to TV cable set up and instructions if you need them:static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-9500377-04.pdf Pressure testing info is on the last page.
Nick, any suggestions on what I should do here; I have a 84 K20 Suburban that I put a 1989 700R4 int my truck. I did not know about the spline variables until I saw this video. Any suggestions on what to look for; (as far as options)? The transfer case I have is a NP208.
Hi MRHSDM, your 1989 700R4 should be fine for your K20 insofar as input shaft is concerned as it has a 30 spline input shaft and matching pump. If your K20 had a TH400 originally, then you will need to find a matching transfer case with a 27 spline input that will mesh with the 700R4's 27 spline output shaft.
I just subscribed to your channel. My brother saw one of your videos on how to replace the pin for the parking pawl in a 700R4. he was wrking on removing the shift brackets off of it as the used transmission we put into my 1984 K20 Chevy Suburban did not use the same linkage as the 84 700R4 that was removed in my driveway. Could I get a link to this video? I will be using the pulled transmission to practice on how to remove the pin with removing minimal parts. A friend suggested to remove the rooster comb to do this shaft replacement.
Thanks, Andrew - appreciate the subscription! I don't have any videos specific to the parking pawl pin removal is it's really not removable. You may be thinking of the selector shaft which is what the external linkage is ultimately bolted to and connected to the column shifter so the driver can change gears, etc....If so, you can watch my 700R4 rebuild video, you can see how the selector is replaced. That said, you shouldn't have to do anything inside the transmission if you're just doing an external linkage swap.
We put a used transmission into my 84 K20 and as one of my brothers was removing a nut; not using hardly any pressure, the bolt broke. I have to drop the pan & remove the rooster comb and other linkage to replace the bolt. I will be using the dead transmmission as my "guinea pig" to see how things come apart first before committing to crawling under the truck. I don't have a lift. @@nickstransmissions
Also I never knew about the various "vintages/eras" of the 700R4 and the spline changes. I have a NP208 T case on my truck; would I have to change the front output shaft on my 208 to match the 30 spline drive to match the 1989 700R4 transmission I just put in or will it be good to go?@@nickstransmissions
The case and extension housing. There is a special ext housing that is designed to accept "through boltd" to mount to the vette's unibody chassis above the transmission. The vette case lacks rear trans mount threaded bolt hole locations unlike other 700R4 cases that mount to a traditional rear xmember.
at one point in time, the ATSG service manual recommended builders to leave the load springs out, then they changed it, and said to put them in,, a few channels I watch the builders are very adament that the lack of load release springs cause early 3/4 clutch burn up so I guess its kind of builder preference based on personal experiences.. it seems alot of attempts have been made to offset the cause of 3.4 clutch burn up by using stronger clutches, and some hydraulic pressure adaptations, but I guess the root problem of the 2nd gear band not coming off, before the 3/4 clutch comes on is still a problem..
My general guidance is that load release springs should be used when - clearances are .030-.040 and application is high performance, high RPM and high rate return springs have not been installed. - If HP is 550+, race/serious street strip and clearance is .030-.040, irrespective to whether high rate return springs/Transgo bleeder orifice is installed I leave them out if Clearance is .040-.050 and high rate return springs have been installed, HP is under 550 or so and vehicle is mostly street driven - All other non-high performance / high RPM applications (high RPM is considered 5500 and above) Re band release and 3-4 clutch pack apply mis-time, the main problem is the small 2-3 orifice hole and comparatively larger band release in the spacer plate as from the factory. Most of the time it's not a problem but when the trans gets raced or when larger servos are installed but no mods to the plate or anywhere else are done to complement those changes, you start seeing 2-3 flares...In these cases, the load release springs exacerbate the problem.
There's one kit that applies to all 700R4s - the builder just uses the parts from it that apply to the unit he's working on at the time. That said, I usually buy some 4L60E parts, including: - The paper and rubber kit (applicable to all years/versions of 700R4s) - 4L60E early clutch module (has high energy clutches in the 3-4 and rev input) - 4L60E 3-4 steel module (the other steels are usually ok) - 4L60E tubular steels in the low-reverse and reverse input clutch packs (optional for stock/mild builds but recommended for high perf builds) - #4 or #7 3-4 apply ring, depending upon how I'm trying to set up the 3-4 clutch pack - 4L60E apply and backing plates or 700R4 apply plate and 4L60E backing plate (whichever gives me the clutch stack up and clearance I want) - - 4L60E late model bonded steel and rubber apply pistons for the forward drum - 4L60E late model forward clutch return spring - 4L60E viton seal for the input-output shaft junction - Corvette 2nd gear servo - Wide 2-4 band if using a machined or new reverse input drum
@@nickstransmissions so I picked up a couple used 700r4. Here are the codes. Which one is the “better” one to rebuild. I think these codes tell what it was in and engine but hard to find that information. 0MJM149H 7YZM051B 6MWM-Y-01147918-191C (4x4) K case
K cases have thicker flanges. 1987 was a transition year and you can potentially see a unique configuration where you have an auxilary valve body but a spacer plate that is provisioned for a check ball to be placed at low detent location (#9 check ball) in the case. I make mention because most folks attribute the aux valve body cases as not taking that check ball but in early-mid 87, they did. 1993 had a separate valve body and separator plate but those only went into the F body cars and Corvettes. I wouldnt build anything off of an 82-E84 case - case itself is fine but pump, fwd drum, forward/3-4 clutch packs and sprag were underdesigned relative to later years.
Also, TransGo, Sonnax, GM are likely the only parts to use, especially Sonnax since they have many refinements to their parts over OEM for longevity and reliability.
Those, Superior Tech and a couple others are reliable depending on which parts you're referring to. Borg Warner, Raybestos, Alto for frictions, bands and steels, OEM GM/National for bonded pistons (never reuse the aluminum apply pistons in the forward drums in 700R4s and 1996 and older 4L60Es). Bushings from either Transtar or Sonnax. OH paper and rubber kits from Transtar primarily
Nick I have an 1958 Chevy bel air 348 with turbo glide. I have heard I may want to change my tranny to a th350 or the 700 and specifically go for 87 or later. Is this good advice.
Hi Alan, If you want to take your Bel Air on the highway more often then, yes I agree with doing the swap but with a couple caveats if you go to a 700R4: 1. You will need to know what your final drive ratio is - if it's something like 2.73 or taller, you'll need to install a 3.23 or 3.42 (or something in that general neighborhood) ring and pinion kit so that you don't potentially stress the transmission (particularly the 3/4 clutch pack) in overdrive 2. The 700R4's cable is what's called a 'Throttle Valve' cable; it's not a kick down cable like the TH350 has. The TV cable set up and adjustment is absolutely critical to the health of the transmission, so depending upon what engine you have, you'll likely need to purchase a mounting bracket for the TV cable to ensure the geometry is correct and validate set up/adjustment via a transmission pressure gauge so you can compare your readings to reference readings...I can reply with a link to some directions to help you w/it. The TH350 would be the less complex swap of the two but both may require you to modify your driveline (cut and rebalance) depending on the differences in overall length of the turbo glide vs the other two. That and you may need to move the cross member rearwards. Is there something wrong with your Turbo Glide transmission?
@mytransmissions5390 well I am thinking yes. Haven't heard definitely though. Wouldn't get out of park. Been in the shop for 2 weeks. So just trying to think of options. The turboglide prior to that was running perfect and has 38000 miles on it
Gotcha...Wonder if the parking pawl was damaged or guide bent...sorry to hear of it. The Turbo 350 likely requires less overall cost/effort than a 700R4 so perhaps that was driving the prev owner's recommendation....That said, I've built numerous 700r4s for swaps in to the Tri-Five and similar 50's cars throughout the years so they are a popular swap as well. If you plan on doing some more highway driving and road trips, you'll want overdrive as doing 70mph at 3000 or so rpms gets old fast. It may cost a bit more to do the 700R4 and there may be some additional complexity involved when it comes to installation but it's worth it in my view. What's critical is the final drive ratio - just making sure it's deep enough for the overdrive is the main consideration.
also have u tried a product called superzilla? amazing cleaner, lubricant, decarbonizer, many many uses.. non toxic plant based formula.. I buy it by the case.. @@nickstransmissions
Keep your fluid and filter changed every 30,000 miles would be about the best maintenance interval. Anyone who believes that todays transmissions can go 100,000 before its first "factory recommended" fluid change is going to find out differently. (Maybe a little longer if you are doing highway miles more than city).
So they called the 700-R4 the 4L60 but it is nothing like the 4T60, which is a markedly superior design. 700-R4s almost always start to slip after 150k or so, whereas the 4T60 will last a lot longer. Seems like fraud to make it seem like this was a longitudinal version of the 4T60 with an unnecessary re-designation. It is also fraudulently leading consumers to believe it was a new design when it wasn't. Even going electronic doesn't justify changing the model name. 700-R4E would have worked just fine and not been disingenuous. IDK why I'm even watching this. While I would like to get another Caprice, I'm definitely putting a T-56 in it if I do. Or maybe I'll do something crazy like a blown VR6 and Quattro AWD. Or maybe I'll toss a Corvette powertrain and suspension at it. I always did like transverse rear leaf springs. Still miss my '89 Cutlass Supreme. It is one of the few cars I regretted selling.
GM's automatic transmission naming convention consists of the following: number of forward gears, a drive train orientation and torque handling capability based on numerical value...so 4L60 is broken down as follows: 4 = no. of forward gears L = longitudinal engine orientation (rear wheel drive) 60 = torque rating capacity indicator once torque multiplication is accounted for So the 4L60, 4L60E and 4T60/4T60E would not necessarily have anything in common save for the fact they are GM automatic transmissions that have four forward gears in 'Drive' or 'D4'. Beyond that, they are completely different designs that were intended to satisfy completely different powertrain requirements. Like most automatic transmissions, both of those units have their warts, including a weak direct clutch. But saying GM committed 'Fraud' isn't an accurate characterization...If they had rated the 4L60 the same as the 4L80, that would be fraudulent, or at very minimum, willfully deceptive. But nothing like that happened... They simply changed the naming convention for their automatic transmissions and transaxles, nothing more. Ford and Dodge did the exact same thing on/around the same time frame. For example, the AOD/AODE ---> 4R70, 4R75; E4OD ---> 4R100...Dodge 727 ---> 36RH, 37RH...Some name changes coincided with component engineering changes, others did not. Lastly, your watching this video because it's great stuff, lol🍺 Thanks for taking the time to view and comment, Lurch-bot.
Just found and watched your video, ive been debating on rebuilding my own transmission and your video has been the most informative video ive watched. Other rebuilders were not as detailed or informative thank you sir for being very detailed and explaining what to look for and what to upgrade to for better performance and durability. I will definitely be watching the rebuild. Again thank you sir.
Thank you for the kind words, David!
I'll be posting some 'special tool' videos over the next couple weeks showing the transmission-specific tools I use to rebuild the units I work on, including the 700R4/4L60E so look out for those...If you run into a jam, post a question and I'll respond as soon as I can.
@@nickstransmissions what do you think about the Turbo 350 hi energy green deluxe transmission rebuild kit from ebay and it costs $235.00 ? for my 77 c10
Those are good kits...I really like the Alto friction modules that come with them...The kit will probably come with a plastic seal for the output shaft's snout...I have been using them in place of bushings as I think they seal a bit better...
Your videos are excellent, and much appreciated. I'm going to rebuild a 700r4 (1988) for durability, as my motor will be a 500rpm street only cruiser. Your vids have given me the incentive to do it myself. Haven't built a car in 30 years, so again, thanks for the good info. Cheers :)
Man that's what I'm talking about. You know your stuff, very impressed. It's amazing how all that works together. Definitely more complicated than my little C6 lol. I know that was a lot of trouble doing that video. I haven't seen another channel like this. For what it's worth I shared this channel with my son he's just starting out in automotive repair he currently works at a ford dealer and has got the trans guys watching your channel. When you can, the next trans you should do is 6L80... holy crap what a mess. Thanks again for your trouble.
Thank you, Steve! Appreciate it.
One of the most informative videos I’ve ever seen on a 700r4. 👍👍
Thanks, man! Appreciate the kind words.
Starting with my rebuilt, I sanded the case base with a rigid piece of glass + a 360 sand. Before sanding, I put a bit of paint with a little roller in top of case's walls, like a sand guide. Whit this procedure, it was possible to see the most minimal differences in case walls levels (mainly, lower in the center area) and correct it, with aprox. 15 or 20 minutes sanding.
Good work, Denis. Sanding definitely reduces likelihood of cross-leaks and is worth doing, especially on older transmissions like the 700R4.
Best 700R4 teardown inspection video I've seen on here.
Thank you, thehobbyguy! Appreciate the kind words.
Outstanding content. Much appreciated good sir
Thanks, Jordan!
glad for the vid. will be rebuilding one this winter. have done 1 4l60e with success, so its the 700r4 valve body that im studying out of a 92 chevy truck as ive read that they are different
Cool Randy - nice thing about the 700 and 4L60Es is the case architecture is identical. Only major differences are the valve body / solenoids in the 4L60E vs governor/TV cable of the 700s.
All 700R4 valve bodies made from 1988-1992 are identical...1993 valve bodies are different (they only went into F-bodies and Corvettes in that year). All 700R4 valve bodies made from 1982-1986 are the same and all valve bodies made in 1987 are the same. You can install any year valve body in your 92. I install 1982-1986 valve bodies in 1987-1992 700r4s for folks doing resto-mods/hot rods where they're swapping out things like TH350s and 400s to get overdrive but don't want to mess with any electrical work to lock the torque converter. the 1982-86 valve bodies have a TCC mechanical lock up control valve whereas the 1988-93 valve bodies do not.
we got everything right, first attempt on the 4l60e EXCEPT for the boost valve snap ring.. pulled the trans out, and it was hanging down,, I didnt think that the boost valve was accassable without pulling the trans,, thats a mistake that will NEVER happen again., why they have that lower groove in the pump housing below the groove that the snap ring actually goes in is a mystery to me, but im sure its tripped many a novice builder up.
different subject, on a 4l60e, have u ever heard of this.. you take an unneeded servo cover off a junkyard engine, grind the top off where you would grab it with pliers to take it off.. install everything in the servo bore, and put the modified servo cover on,, then you can push the servo pin in to see how much clearance you have?
being 54, I wondered abt how automatic transmissions worked for many years, and finally got the confidence to open one up, and they are fascinating indeed.. if I wasnt retired, I would strongly consider rebuilding them for a business. what im doing now is buying the gmt400 platform trucks that have bad transmissions in them, rebuilding the transmissions, fixing them up, and selling them for a hobby. the 92 I recently bought is said to have had someone go into it 3 times in the last 4 years, so im going to have to really be vigilant in checking everything that is inside, or not inside. your vids will help tremendously,, thanks
Sucks - sorry to hear; I hate when that shit happens (and has happened to me more times then I care to remember, haha)...In L2006, GM began installing a turbine speed sensor into the 4L60/65/70Es and thus you could no longer access the boost valve from under the trans. You have to take the trans out, remove the pump to replace the sensor or boost valve. And there's no way to tell which 2006 units have them unless you remove the pan and look.
Re your servo question: No need to grind the cover...Just use yours, install the assembly w/spring but leave all the o-rings and seal off. Then measure your travel either by pushing it in and measuring w/a ruler or mount a dial indicator and push the cover in w/a large drift punch or hammer handle (or your hands, whatever fits and doesnt interfere w/the indicator).
Sonnax has instructions for taking the measurements...works on all servos: d2q1ebiag300ih.cloudfront.net/uploads/part/2486/77911-03K-IN.pdf?v=1665514848835.
You're welcome, man! Glad to hear they are helping you. GMT400s are becoming more and more popular so good on you for learning how to rebuild so you can make some $$$ and eliminate your dependency on transmission shops.
I watched this video intently , due to the fact that my 92 Chevy Suburban K1500 4X4 ( 350 v8 stock w / 700 R4 ) just gave me trans problems " YET - AGAIN " !!
I installed a GM GOOD WRENCH REBUILT TRANS bought from the GMC dealer we had a parts account with for our fleet of GMC's Top Kicks at the Excavating Co.
This was April 2015 , at the same time I installed a ( DERALE deep pan with the cooling tubes ) and a ( B&M SUPER COOLER behind the grille ) w/ the stainless steel cooling lines going straight to it / eliminating the radiator cooler )
I am the only one driving it , do " NOT " tow with it , and I am a diesel mechanic by trade on MACK TRUCKS , and have changed the oil & filter kit ( RELIGOUSLY every 12,000 miles ) .
( I NOW HAVE 61,000 MILES + ON IT ) & HERE I AM AGAIN WITH ISSUES ???
I just started having shifting issues with it on the 1-2 shift , but if you let off the throttle & back on , it shifted up through the gears & lock up converter . OIL PINK LIKE NEW / NO SMELL / NO BROWN / NO NOTHIN ????
Took it to the trans shop , they said it has " NO " 2nd GEAR ??? ( THE BAND )
OF COURSE THEY ONLY WANT TO " REBUILD THE ENTIRE TRANS " and I am in Florida away from PA. !!!
From watching your video intently , sounds like that ( SERVO 2 - 4 PISTON SEAL ) gave up and stopped applying the ( BAND )?
I first checked the " TV " CABLE , for proper adjustment , and found it to be very good , I did try moving it slightly forward & back from the original position , with a quick test drive , ( NO DIFFERENCE ) put back to original spot ( marked w/ paint pen ) .
I have given that 700 R4 the best life I could , and yet here I sit , AFTER ONLY 61,000 + MILES ??????
I told this very same story to the trans shop owner , said if there are updates to keep that trans " BULLET PROOF "
BY ALL MEANS DO IT !!!!!!! ( THEY COULD CARE LESS ) !!
ANY THOUGHTS FROM YOU WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED, WILL NOT PIT YOU AGAINST THEM , BUT I CAN'T KEEP
PUTTING A TRANS IN THIS THING EVERY COUPLE YEARS !!!!!
I HAVE OWNED THE TRUCK FOR 20 + YEARS AND THE TRUCK IS CLEAN , NOT GETTING RID OF IT ANY TIME SOON !!!!
SURE WOULD APPRECIATE YOUR THOUGHTS ! HOPE TO HEAR FROM YA SOON !!
THANKS PAUL
P.S. I SUBSCRIBED TO YOUR CHANNEL , I WISH I HAD DONE MORE WITH AUTO TRANS , INSTEAD OF MACK TRUCKS
BUT I AM STILL LEARNING WATCHING YOUR SHOW , KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS !!
Hi Paul, thank you for subscribing and watching!
Does the transmission not shift into 2nd gear at all - does it shift into 3rd then 4th? or is it slipping into 2nd gear?
If it doesn't have 2nd gear at all but does have 4th gear, the band is likely not the issue however it can be if it's just worn enough to slip or neutral in 2nd but apply in 4th when both servo pistons are applied. When in 2nd gear, only the second gear servo piston applied which is like holding something with only one hand instead of two (the 'second hand' being the fourth apply piston).
@@nickstransmissions
NICK , thankyou for your quick response !!
I will tell you the exact way this all went down ,
I was heading to Daytona Beach area of Florida from the Philly area when this all occurred ,
trans was not slipping far as I am concerned , only problem was it would not shift into 2nd gear unless you
let off the throttle then re - applied throttle . then it would go up through the gears into fourth then the lockup converter would apply as well ,.
I would then set the cruise control for 74 mph on I -95 south bound towards Florida (NOTE # A 16 HOUR RUN)
as far as I am concerned , I counted what I believe to be 4 shifts !!!!
As stated earlier, got to Daytona and checked fluid constantly on way down & arrival , pink like new / no smell / no brown / no nothin ????
re - adjusted the TV cable several times to test for out of adjustment, quick hops ( NO DIFFERENCE ) ??
Made appointment with LOCAL REPUTABLE TRANS SHOP, " 2 WEEKS OUT " ( THAT BUSY ) !!
August 6 , dropped it off , got a " TEXT " 2 HOURS LATER from secretary stating ;
(1) no 2nd gear
(2) $ 2500 - $ 2700 COMPLETE REBUILD !!!!!!!!
??????????????
Drove over talked to secretary ( knows nothing) asked to speak to owner & go for test drive with him ??
He came to office stated ( NO SECOND GEAR / when I shift it manually from 1st to 2nd nothing there !!!!???????
I SAID ; I did not shift thru the gears 1 by 1
BUT , I counted all the gears & I find nothing in oil to indicate burnt band ????
HIS SHOP IS VERY SMALL / VERY BUSY/ IN A SMALL TOWN / !!
I HAVE BEEN IN THE INDUSTRY 45+ YEARS
AND I COUNTED ALL THE GEARS & NEVER " SLIPPED " JUST DID NOT SHIFT WITHOUT OFF THROTTLE / ON THROTTLE .
NOTE # CAME FROM PHILLY TO DAYTONA NEVER QUIT !!!??????????
MORAL TO THIS STORY ;
HE IS SO BUSY , HE DOES NOT EVEN HAVE 2 MINUTES TO THINK ABOUT IT ????????
PULL IT , REBUILD IT , GET IT THE ( F..... OUTA A HERE ) !!!!!!!!!
I FEAR ; THIS IS THE WAY ( MOST TRANS SHOPS OPERATE )
AT THE " CUSTOMERS - EXPENSE " !!!!!!
THAT IS WHY ; I was watching your videos , I do believe I am being " LIED TO " !!!!!!!
AND AFTER WATCHING YOUR 700 R 4 TEAR DOWN & EXPLANATION ,
I THINK I AM RIGHT ON THE WAY THIS GUY OPERATES ??????
I ONLY WISH I WERE WRONG !!!!
THANKS PAUL
Yea, he could very well have thrown the "it needs a rebuild" out there to see if you'd bite, figuring he really doesn't have anything to lose given how busy he is...Just a guess...I taught myself how to rebuild these things so as to avoid that entire cycle of uncertainty/feeling you're being deceived, etc.
If you have four forward gears but you have to let off to shift into 2nd gear, the first thing I would do is a line pressure test to validate the TV cable is, in fact, adjusted correctly and that the cable itself is able to retain it's adjustment (over the years they wear out and lose the ability to keep TV adjustments which can lead to gradual line pressure degradation inside the transmission.
Next, I'd pull the servo out of the case and inspect it for any unusual wear, excessively worn sealing rings, etc - then go from there based on what you find.
@@nickstransmissions
10 /4 !! my thoughts exactly, you try to get across to the guy , that I can't keep rebuilding these transmissions ( EVERY TIME THE ASH TRAYS GET FULL ) but like I said in the first comment,
( he could care less ) !!
was just watching your video on the valve body re - assembly , reminds me of rebuilding a " JAKE - BRAKE "
on a MACK E-6 or E-7 with the slave pistons ,& hand fitting everything for smooth operation !!
The last thing you want is to have to take that thing back apart again !!
PATIENCE - IS - A - VIRTUE !!!!!
THANKS PAUL
Yep, same principle and concept. And no doubt, I hate comebacks!
Muchas Gracias
Por compartir,
video muy interesante,
Muy bien detallada la explicación.
Muchas gracias.
You're welcome, Juan - thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting… I have a 700r 1991 and it’s clunking in reverse and doesn’t feel like it’s fully engaging only in reverse. 91 camaro maybe cable adjustment?
Thank you for watching, LRadman...Not a cable adjustment issue...otherwise, you'd have noticed drivability symptoms in your forward gears (slipping, neutral conditions, etc especially in 3rd).
Reverse delayed engagements are typically caused by wear in the square cut seals on the low reverse piston at the back of the case. This causes the pack to either not fully apply or slip/burn (or both)...You could also have a reverse input clutch failure but that's less likely...Most of the time it's the low-reverse piston seals wearing/hardening and allowing apply fluid to blow by instead of applying the piston when in reverse.
@@nickstransmissions thank you so much for replying, I have been trying to find answers for a while. No real problems in any other gears but also when I put it in park the car will roll back or forward a hood 6-7 inches before the trans catches. The clunking is bad when first reversing and slowly goes away as the car (91 camaro) gets some momentum. Tried to back it up onto some patio stones about 3 inches high off the ground and it didn’t like it- clunked alot and it got faster with rpm, backing up a hill does the same thing- grabs a little bit, clunks a lot eventually will go with momentum 😬
The clunk is likely your driveshaft making contact with the base of the output shaft - they have some built-in play to allow for changing pinion angles and that's critical on F-body and similar platforms that ride low to the ground. If the 'clunk' is beyond just that (i.e. you're already aware of the normal driveline clunk) then trans likely has to come out as the rev input drum female lugs are likely worn and/or anti-clunk spring at the center support may have broken (very rare but seen it a couple times)
@@nickstransmissionsthanks for the great advice, I am not aware of the driveshaft issue and will check for that 🤞. Could that also be the issue with the rolling back and forth play when put in park?
Rolling a bit on a grade is normal. As long as you eventually go into park, you're fine...One thing I'd do is pump the brakes whenever parking on an incline or decline so that the full weight of the car doesn't slam into the parking pawl...If the pawl breaks, you will lose the ability to put the car in park; the trans would have to come out and be replaced.
Please sub if you haven't already - ill be doing some more 700R4 vids in the very near future.
What are the minimal DIY tool set to rebuild? Is there a work around for the press?
Hi, thanks for watching!
The workaround for the press is to take the bushings and parts that require them to a transmission shop and have the shop R&R the bushings...Some shops will do so for around $150-$200 while others won't. By time. If you don't invest in the press, you may find yourself back in the same position (needing a press) for the next repair vs just investing the money on a good press...No serious DYI'er should be without a multimeter, scan tool and shop press (in addition to all the basic/obvious tools) in my opinion....
That said, you can find very cost effective work arounds for the sealing ring resizing tools that you'd otherwise need...Purchase some appropriately sized hose clamps (including a big one for doing pump alignment) and then go on Amazon and search 'Rubber sheets' - buy a pack of three 8X10 inch rubber sheets (appx 1/8" thick) and cut sections out to place inside your hose clamps to protect the sealing rings from the hose clamp's tightening mechanism.
That will cost about $15-$20 and save you about $100-$150 in ring resizer and special alignment tools. Spend another $40 on a universal clutch return spring compressor tool and you should have what you need to assemble the transmission. User feeler gauges on clutch packs for clearance and a dial indicator for end play measurement.
Are referring to a generic shop press? I get that DIY people should have one. I'm referring to the specialty press you have at 1:30. A great video you could make is to rebuild a trans with DIY tools@@nickstransmissions
I would wager most of your how to views are from DIY first timers. Regarding tools I would also include homemade tools if need be. Alot of DIY's have fab skills and would be willing to cobble together something for single use
You're referring to the foot press...You used the term 'press' so figured you referring to the shop press. Yes, if you don't want to spend $$$ on the foot press, grab either a vise mounted universal compressor tool or a stand-along compressor tool.
Funny (in a good way) that you're asking for a vid for DYI special transmission building tools, lower cost substitutes, that work just as well, if not better, (for example, see my above response to your first question) and workarounds. I'm in the process of putting together the content for such a video literally as we speak (hence why I'm responding so quickly to your comments as I at the computer). I'm not a fabricator but a great many of you who watch are and very handy/creative so you all can make the tools you need for significantly less than what I spend to buy them.
Please subscribe if you haven't already as those and more vids will be coming out very soon.
Cool! I look forward to it. I'm in the process of setting up a 700r4 swap. I made a Torque Converter lip seal driver out of scrap exhaust pipe, a big washer and a bolt welded together. i ask this stuff so that when my second hand trans goes south I can rebuild it. One last suggestion would be to collaborate with a fabricator(garage cobbler) who can weld etc to design a cheap tool recipe for us frugal types. might be to weld a quick and crude adapter for and engine stand to hold the case. If you made a video from that perspective it would be a real hit. Example @@nickstransmissions
Hey Nick, sorry to keep bothering you, Sonnax wants me to plug that tiny little PWM hole in my Seperator plate (4L60E) what will that do? also what do you use to stop the 3-2 kick down valve from moving? I dont have a tight wound Purple spring, and is it necessary to block the 3-2 solenoid, if so what should i use?
Walter
I am rebuilding an 83 700 R4 for my rebuilt 425 hp 400 SBC. Should I be worried about my 27 spline stator/ pump? Can I simply replace my 27 spline stator with a 30 spline stator or do I have to replace the whole pump? Thank you!
What's up govsux (love the username) - Yes, I would upgrade to a 303/304 body/cover-stator combination, fully remanufactured/resurfaced, etc...Those numbers refer to the last three digits of the casting no. for each part. The 27 spline input shafts in 82-E84 700R4s are weak and won't last too long in your application...
Ironically enough, the 200-4R input shaft, which also has 27 splines is good to 500HP for the 2nd design shaft (the first design is good to about 400 or so).
Is it a pretty big job to drop the pan and get the selector seal out, when the transmission is still in the vehicle? Everyone seems to be doing that job with the transmission already out.
Hi Enermax, it's not difficult at all takes a half hour to an hour depending upon how fast you work. Just need a 15mm open ended wrench for the nut and a small prybar to take out the seal. There's a special collet style tool that removes the seal with the selector still installed so no need to drop the pan. You take out the seal w/the tool the use a 15mm deep socket to install the new one. With the tool, the task is done in 15 minutes or less.
@@nickstransmissions Unfortunately I don't have room to use the tool adequately. So I was looking at dropping the pan to get at it, if it's not a big job to do it that way.
Yea, it's no biggie to drop the pan..if you're handy w/a welder and have an appropriately sized nut for a factory drain plug, you can drill a hole in the bottom of the pan once it's off and install a drain plug w/the nut welded on the inside of the pan...
Once the pan's off, at some point closely inspect the threads on all the pan bolt holes. Many 700R4s and 4L60Es have partially stripped threads that won't hold torque when you go to put the pan back on and tighten everything to spec. So will want to helicoil repair them when the pan is off.
Tighten that rooster comb nut really well...They can come loose if not synched down good.
When you put the pan back on, torque all bolts to 98 inch lbs.
@@nickstransmissions No need to remove the valve body? Looks like there's a little lever/shaft that goes into the rooster comb. Maybe that lever won't come out unless you remove the valve body?
Nope, vb can stay untouched. The little linkage arm that connects the manual valve and rooster comb doesnt need to be removed. Simply take loose the rooster comb/selector shaft nut then push the shaft out of the case. The little linkage arm may hold the rooster comb in place or it may fall out. If the rooster comb falls and little arm comes out of the manual valve, simply put it back in whem you're ready.
@30:41, what happens if you run the transmission without that transfer tube installed? Sorry if I offended you Nick, I'm not a troll...I did a 2/3's rebuild on my first transmission due to my inexperience & fear...took a chance on the piston lips seals being ok, due to the fact it was rebuild in mid-2022 and they were. Truck is running nice. I completed my second rebuild on my back-up 700R4 (that was owned by others-raced) and this time comprressed and did the outer-inner lips seals and then air-tested the drum with 30 to 15 PSI. This particular transmission was driven without a transfer tube...and I can't find any information on what happens if this tube is not installed...performance or otherwise. Actually i think you answered my question at 33:39...the vane pump feeding the auxilary valve body via the tranfer tube gave it smoother shift into forward gear...without the transfer pipe...it'll shift hard.
Good question, I never ran one without that tube installed, if it's supposed to be there...My guess is no forward movement since everything routes through that pipe. Also, I know you're not a troll...I've had to ban a few trolls from the channel, none of your comments or questions are even remotely close to troll-like...Thanks for watching, man!
im currently working on 1985 7004r looks like they installer 2nd generation valve body lost 3/4 when i took pump out band was totaly disengaged what would cause this evevttig is pristine
Thanks for watching, Greg...Hmmm...I've never installed a second design VB onto an early, non-aux vb case. Did the trans function at all with that valve body?
As far as the band being dislodged, was the band anchor pin damaged in some way? Any damage to the case at the pin bore?
Are you sure it was dislodged prior to you pulling the pump out (sometimes the band will come off the anchor pin as the pump is being removed).
Yes band could came off when pulled pump Tran worked said he lost 3/4 . As a side note can I install a 716 drum in this trans
Yes you can install the 716 drum but be warned - as I mentioned in the video, the pre-aux 700R4s had a 3mm diameter orifice for the forward clutch owing to the fact there was no accumulator present...That orifice was changed to 6mm in the 097 and 716 drums so the vehicle's garage engagement into Drive may be very harsh as those two drums were intended to work with a forward accumulator circuit.
Thank you for your reply enjoy watching you on tube very informative again thank u
You're welcome, Greg and thank you again for the views...Let me know if you have any further questions or run into problems with that build.
Nick my first $240. (Borg-Warner kit) 700R4 transmission rebuild was a success. Did a 2/3's rebuild. I knew the piston 0-rings had been rebuilt a year early in 2022 and took a chance that they were still ok and they were....Transmission was responsive when placed in gear (before it was pulled) and I had burnt up the 3-4 clutch pack due to towing in 4th, with misadjusted TV detent cable. Now, I'm starting my second 700R4 rebuild, that has more issues, biggest being DELAY when placed into any rear, reverse or forward and when shifting...DELAY before it goes into gear, like the transmission has to build up fluid pressure. Transmission only slips in 3rd/4th but has delays into gears. What area should I be focused on for this ENGAGEMENT DELAY, acts like i have low fluid pressure everywhere in this second transmission. Would that delay be caused mainly by the vane-pump?, or loss of pressure in a piston o-ring? and which piston o-ring/s would you suspect for engagement delay in reverse and 1st-starting? Also, had issues sending in my donation online...do you have a P.O. box address? You saved me a lot of money with your tutorials.
Sorry to hear of those issues, man...When you say 'Piston o-rings being rebuilt' what you referring to? Sealing rings, lip seals, rubber o-rings on the accumulator pistons are not rebuilt, just replaced.
Is the transmission filled to capacity, showing full-hot when at operating temp?
What were your line pressures at idle on this 2nd transmission?
What were your pump rotor-deck and slide-deck clearances in the pump?
What happened with this transmission to require overhaul initially?
What year 700R4?
I need to know more, including answers to all of the above, before I can do more than just guess because it could be any number of things.
@@nickstransmissions My first transmission 1989 i rebuilt was a success- done with that one, been drivig for two weeks on it, love it, works great- like new. Now,i'm going to open up the second 700R4 (unknown year, never been inside, but was rebuilt by someone previously) that has shift delay issues which I have used as a back up transmission. i have no way to measure line pressure, not that sophisticated. I was just wondering...on this back-up transmission that was in the truck recently (pulled)... there was a 2 or 3 second delay in putting it into first or reverse, either drive gear huge delay before engagement like the fluid pressure is low. I'm just trying to get a tip or your expertise on where you would think the issue exists befoe i go in for the rebuild...would it be the pump or the piston lips-inner seals...and which ones would control both forward and reverse?
@@nickstransmissions yes, transmisson was filled to capacity...trying to figure out the delay on engagement...reverse or forward...where to look and what to look for....before i go in to operate- surgery. Give me your first , second and thrid places....ranked in order what is most likely the cause of the delayed engagement...in first and reverse...acting the same exact way.
@@nickstransmissions This unknown transmission was owned by a youngster that raced it w/ a 2300 stall converter...and then went to a stage 3. He said it was rebuilt a year earlier...but it always had a delay like the fluid pressre was low. I got a good deal on it $450. so i went with it...used it for a year and 3-4 clutch pack started to slip. i serviced it 3 times, new fluid..filter, made no difference.
@@nickstransmissions I think of all the spring held lip-inner seals...as pistons-movement, maybe I'm incorrect.
I thought the load springs were there to solve the nascent timing issue during a 3-2 kickdown downshift, when the band applies before the 3-4 releases, causing the latter to bind-up and hence burn up.
The other question - can you put in a 13 vane late 4L60E pump assembly and what are the benefits of that?
Finally in the introduction, you missed out that somewhere in 1991-1993 period the 7004R got renamed the 4L60 (no E), which adds more confusion than clarity.
Hi Shalash87, the load release springs were installed primarily to prevent centrifugal apply when driving through the 3-4s in first and second gear, especially at higher rpm though they probably play a minor role in preventing tie-ups as well. That said, the spacer plate hole sizes for clutch feeds and band releases combined with mechanical calibration of the valve body’s shift valve trains are the primary methods for keeping the timing in synch. Go real lopsided on those hole size’s between feed and exhaust and a tie up is all but guaranteed.
No major benefits to retroing a 13-vane pump into a 10-vane trans as the additional vane count was increased primarily to make the pump quieter at part throttle. In fact, those pump rotors are technically weaker than 10 vanes and I believe mods have to be made to the pump cover for it to work. The 10 vane pump moves sufficient volume and does its job well. I recommend billet rotors when rpms are expected to exceed 5k on a regular basis. Otherwise they aren’t necessary either.
Lastly, im sure i missed a bunch of things in that tear down video, only so much to cram in but I will do topical videos on the first two things you’re asking about as they are commonly discussed but there’s still not a ton of clarity out there on either topic.
Thanks again for watching and your feedback!
Any particular reason why mine won’t shift out of park? I have the pan off my 90 Suburban and the part where the shift linkage attaches, the selector won’t move at all. I’ve done some research and people say it’s usually the parking lock accumulator so I ordered a new one. Is the what it could be? There was no metal at all when I took the pan off and it was shifting flawlessly. No it’s just stuck and won’t shift into any gear.
Hi Deep Roots, thank you for watching.
I wouldnt trust any sources you've been using in your research that mention a "parking lock accumulator" because there is no such thing. So I am not sure what part you actually ordered but more than likely, it's not going to be what you need.
Did you disconnect the shift linkage from the transmission before trying to move the selector shaft?
@@nickstransmissions yes I did. I’m looking at a diagram of a 700r4. I ordered the “actuator assembly parking lock,” it connects to the “lever inside detent” and pushes the “spring parking pawl return.” It’s basically a rod with a spring at the end.
Ok, that makes more sense...You orderded the parking rod assembly, which should fix your issue if the one in there has failed in some way, preventing you from moving the selector.
Was thinking you ordered an accumulator piston...
@@nickstransmissions Thanks for your help!! Your video helped the most after hours of research and other videos. Much appreciated.
You're welcome, Deep Roots! Thanks again for watching.
I have that uncommon problem upshift issue to 2nd. Checking governor. Help
Hi EMIX1965 - What uncommon upshift to 2nd issue? I may have mentioned something in the video but it was produced months ago so if you would explain your issue in some detail I can try to help you.
Hey Nick, again great videos. my question is when air checking the forward drum for bubbles, is there an allowable amount of bubbles or is it absolutely no bubbles period. I get a small stream of bubbles when checking the 3-4 feed and the forward feed.
Thanks, Kevin. If I see any bubbles, I replace the drum assembly...For me it's not worth taking the risk...Your call but if it were me, that drum wouldn't be going back in.
Thats pretty much what i thought. is there a good GM part number available to order a new one if i don't want to spend the money on a sonnax one?
Im not sure those drums are still in production but if/when i need a replacement, ill buy from my local parts supplier. You can also check out Cope Racing's 4L78 drum which is like a moderate to high performance upgrade and i believe accommodates 8 or 9 clutches in the 3-4 pack. It comes empty as a bare drum (you need to press in your current input shaft).
Thanks, your videos and input are greatly appreciated.
You're welcome, man - thank you for watching them!
I have an 83 with the weak 27 spline input shaft / drum. Can I just replace with a 30 spline shaft / drum or do I need to replace the pump and or the TC also? Thx! Great videos! I subscribed 👍
Thanks for the sub!
I replied to this same question yesterday - scroll a little bit up and you should see it.
Ive got a 4l60e pump in my 700r4 trans
A while back, I had a 91 700r4 "rebuilt". I chose the wrong shop in Red Lion Pa. After $1800 buck rebuild, it blew 9 months later. Unfortunately, in that 9 month period, the owner had a stroke and closed the shop, leaving many customers like me in a bad place. How much should a full better than stock rebuild cost? I heard a pop noise and lost all gears. 1991 C1500 2wd Silverado. This looks really complicated. You know your stuff, saw the Eagles sweatshirt. Are you in Pa? Looking for a good guy for a rebuild, and you Sir are good. Fascinating video.
Hi Jeff, thank you for watching and sorry to hear that shit happened...Yes, I'm originally from outside Philly (Lansdale) and same shit happened to me for roughly the same amount of money. That drove me to teach myself how to build transmissions so it would never happen again and a big reason why I started this channel...Here's my take on the 700R4 when it comes to rebuild profile: They all should come with some basic upgrades, including:
1. 97+ 4L60E bonded steel/rubber pistons and return spring
2. .472 / .390 boost and reverse boost valve
3. Transgo SK700Jr Shift kit (line bias and 3-2 control valves blocked for high performance)
4. 3-4 clutch clearance set to .030-.050 - no load release springs in anything 88+
5. Sonnax TV valve sleeve and plunger kit
6. Corvette 2nd gear servo
7. Any 82-E84 units upgraded with a L84-86 pump and input drum
8. Pump and Rev Input Drum reconditioning/machining as needed
I only do bench builds which does not include removal, reinstallation, fluid, TV set up and adjustment but my typical 700R4 usually runs around $1450-1500 or so.
Hi Nick. Could give me your recomendation for buy the number 2 for my 1992 4L60: .472/.300 boost and reverse boost valve?.
Thanks again.
Denis V.
@@DenisVassiliu Hi Denis, you can usually find them on eBay, Amazon or your local hard parts supplier...You can also check Transstar.com for a distributor in your area where you can purchase parts in person.
O.K, but what are Sonnax or TransGo, part numbers or kits for these parts? I did a search and I can't see a .390 reverse valve for sale. Only .300. It's OK ?
The .300 rev boost valve should be fine for most applications...You can visit Sonnax's and Transgo's websites for all part numbers, plus both provide detailed instructions for installation on every part or kit they have available.
Excellent video. I used this to help with my teardown of my 1990 Camaro 700R4 and it certainly was very useful. I didn't see anything related to case inspection for cracks though. I have quite a bit of radial cracks in the tail shaft side of the case inside. Not sure if these are "normal" casting stress fractures or cracks I should be concerned with and discard the case for. I would love your opinion on this cracking, is any amount of crack lines reason for abandoning the rebuild? I tried to post a picture but couldn't find an easy way to do it.
drive.google.com/file/d/1cirse1CV3JL4jl7uqolUTGC_76QN4f_9/view?usp=drive_link
Hi Jim,
Thank you for watching and the kind words.
Most of the time the 'cracks' you see in the case are simply byproducts of the casting process so if it is dry in the location where you're seeing the 'cracks' they are almost certainly not cracks....You can check by pouring some transmission fluid either into the area inside to see if it drips through or on the outside to see if you spot seepage into the case in that location, to be sure...
Also, I don't typically click on any links to GDrive folders or other links to personal repositories and I'm not sure if you can actually post an image in the comments on UA-cam...
What you can do is shoot a short video of the cracks, upload to UA-cam and reply with the link to your video here and I'll take a look. Just make sure your camera's focus is sharp and you have good lighting (i.e. no overly dark areas or high contrast between light and shadow on the areas of the cracks as will make it difficult to see).
Can you dispell or verify a rummer that I hear quite often? A lot of people say that a 700r4 that was originally behind a smaller engine, (regardless of year model,) like a 6 cylinder or 305 was built weaker and should not be considered for use/upgrade behind a motor that has increased HP. Personally, I don't think the assembly plants went to that much trouble to have different transmissions for each model, and I haven't seen any part differences in my researching, but many people do. I'm old and could be wrong.
Thanks,
John
Hi John, the 1982-E84 700R4s were markedly weaker and less reliable than follow-on iterations and IMO, it's those earlier years that are primarily responsible for the 700's reputation for being a weak transmission. For anyone working on an 82-E84 700, it's recommended the swap in a pump assembly and input drum from a L84-87 700R4 to eliminate the short comings of those early 700s.
When properly built, any L84+ 700R4 and 4L60E can hold some power and perform (check out my various videos on 700R4s) - my 'base' 700 package is good to go for anything up to about 350-375 horse in a mild to moderate street strip application. Additional, upgraded parts and procedures can bring it to nearly double that figure before you run into the design limits of what the unit is capable of, even if you had an infinite amount of money to spend on parts, etc.
Hell yea!! a whole video!!
Yep! Thanks, HMG!
I have 86 out of a Impala I had built I got 2000 miles on it and now it won't shift till about 4500 hundred rpms any idea what's wrong it's in a 86 monte
Hi, thanks for watching!
700R4 or 200-4R?
Probably governor...Has it been shifting normally since the rebuild until now?
Did you check the governor gear for stripped teeth? Was the governor and/or governor gear replaced as part of the rebuild? Hows fluid level and smell?
You are the MAN.
Thanks, John!
Love your videos, I have an 84 700r4. I had it rebuilt came back great working but less the 200km later it is haveing trouble shifting al of a sudden! I have to run the gear out and give it gas pedal a blip then it shifts ! any idea what is going on???
Thanks for the kind words, FS!
Check the TV cable adjustment by doing a pressure test, if you haven't done so already. If the cable was not set up correctly, you'll have issues shifting as line pressure will not be optimal. Here's a link to TV cable set up and instructions if you need them:static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/bmm-9500377-04.pdf
Pressure testing info is on the last page.
@@nickstransmissions thank you
Nick, any suggestions on what I should do here; I have a 84 K20 Suburban that I put a 1989 700R4 int my truck. I did not know about the spline variables until I saw this video. Any suggestions on what to look for; (as far as options)? The transfer case I have is a NP208.
Hi MRHSDM, your 1989 700R4 should be fine for your K20 insofar as input shaft is concerned as it has a 30 spline input shaft and matching pump. If your K20 had a TH400 originally, then you will need to find a matching transfer case with a 27 spline input that will mesh with the 700R4's 27 spline output shaft.
I just subscribed to your channel. My brother saw one of your videos on how to replace the pin for the parking pawl in a 700R4. he was wrking on removing the shift brackets off of it as the used transmission we put into my 1984 K20 Chevy Suburban did not use the same linkage as the 84 700R4 that was removed in my driveway. Could I get a link to this video? I will be using the pulled transmission to practice on how to remove the pin with removing minimal parts. A friend suggested to remove the rooster comb to do this shaft replacement.
Thanks, Andrew - appreciate the subscription!
I don't have any videos specific to the parking pawl pin removal is it's really not removable. You may be thinking of the selector shaft which is what the external linkage is ultimately bolted to and connected to the column shifter so the driver can change gears, etc....If so, you can watch my 700R4 rebuild video, you can see how the selector is replaced.
That said, you shouldn't have to do anything inside the transmission if you're just doing an external linkage swap.
We put a used transmission into my 84 K20 and as one of my brothers was removing a nut; not using hardly any pressure, the bolt broke. I have to drop the pan & remove the rooster comb and other linkage to replace the bolt. I will be using the dead transmmission as my "guinea pig" to see how things come apart first before committing to crawling under the truck. I don't have a lift.
@@nickstransmissions
It was the selector shaft I was thinking of.
@@nickstransmissions
It was the selector shaft when I typed in parking Pawl by mistake. I ordered one from Amazon@@nickstransmissions
Also I never knew about the various "vintages/eras" of the 700R4 and the spline changes. I have a NP208 T case on my truck; would I have to change the front output shaft on my 208 to match the 30 spline drive to match the 1989 700R4 transmission I just put in or will it be good to go?@@nickstransmissions
What's the difference between the 700 R4 in a 1987C4 Corvette and other vehicles like a Chevy Caprice the Regal the Pontiac the Camaro?
Thanks
The case and extension housing. There is a special ext housing that is designed to accept "through boltd" to mount to the vette's unibody chassis above the transmission. The vette case lacks rear trans mount threaded bolt hole locations unlike other 700R4 cases that mount to a traditional rear xmember.
at one point in time, the ATSG service manual recommended builders to leave the load springs out, then they changed it, and said to put them in,, a few channels I watch the builders are very adament that the lack of load release springs cause early 3/4 clutch burn up so I guess its kind of builder preference based on personal experiences.. it seems alot of attempts have been made to offset the cause of 3.4 clutch burn up by using stronger clutches, and some hydraulic pressure adaptations, but I guess the root problem of the 2nd gear band not coming off, before the 3/4 clutch comes on is still a problem..
My general guidance is that load release springs should be used when
- clearances are .030-.040 and application is high performance, high RPM and high rate return springs have not been installed.
- If HP is 550+, race/serious street strip and clearance is .030-.040, irrespective to whether high rate return springs/Transgo bleeder orifice is installed
I leave them out if
Clearance is .040-.050 and high rate return springs have been installed, HP is under 550 or so and vehicle is mostly street driven
- All other non-high performance / high RPM applications (high RPM is considered 5500 and above)
Re band release and 3-4 clutch pack apply mis-time, the main problem is the small 2-3 orifice hole and comparatively larger band release in the spacer plate as from the factory. Most of the time it's not a problem but when the trans gets raced or when larger servos are installed but no mods to the plate or anywhere else are done to complement those changes, you start seeing 2-3 flares...In these cases, the load release springs exacerbate the problem.
When it comes to the rebuild kits. Do they differ for the 3 different types?
There's one kit that applies to all 700R4s - the builder just uses the parts from it that apply to the unit he's working on at the time. That said, I usually buy some 4L60E parts, including:
- The paper and rubber kit (applicable to all years/versions of 700R4s)
- 4L60E early clutch module (has high energy clutches in the 3-4 and rev input)
- 4L60E 3-4 steel module (the other steels are usually ok)
- 4L60E tubular steels in the low-reverse and reverse input clutch packs (optional for stock/mild builds but recommended for high perf builds)
- #4 or #7 3-4 apply ring, depending upon how I'm trying to set up the 3-4 clutch pack
- 4L60E apply and backing plates or 700R4 apply plate and 4L60E backing plate (whichever gives me the clutch stack up and clearance I want) - - 4L60E late model bonded steel and rubber apply pistons for the forward drum
- 4L60E late model forward clutch return spring
- 4L60E viton seal for the input-output shaft junction
- Corvette 2nd gear servo
- Wide 2-4 band if using a machined or new reverse input drum
@@nickstransmissions so I picked up a couple used 700r4. Here are the codes. Which one is the “better” one to rebuild. I think these codes tell what it was in and engine but hard to find that information.
0MJM149H
7YZM051B
6MWM-Y-01147918-191C (4x4) K case
Are there any significant differences from a 87-92 case to say that one’s better than the other? Even if one is a K case.
K cases have thicker flanges. 1987 was a transition year and you can potentially see a unique configuration where you have an auxilary valve body but a spacer plate that is provisioned for a check ball to be placed at low detent location (#9 check ball) in the case. I make mention because most folks attribute the aux valve body cases as not taking that check ball but in early-mid 87, they did. 1993 had a separate valve body and separator plate but those only went into the F body cars and Corvettes. I wouldnt build anything off of an 82-E84 case - case itself is fine but pump, fwd drum, forward/3-4 clutch packs and sprag were underdesigned relative to later years.
@@nickstransmissions thank you being active and answering questions. You’re a rarity.
You're welcome, man. Thank you for watching!
Also, TransGo, Sonnax, GM are likely the only parts to use, especially Sonnax since they have many refinements to their parts over OEM for longevity and reliability.
Those, Superior Tech and a couple others are reliable depending on which parts you're referring to. Borg Warner, Raybestos, Alto for frictions, bands and steels, OEM GM/National for bonded pistons (never reuse the aluminum apply pistons in the forward drums in 700R4s and 1996 and older 4L60Es). Bushings from either Transtar or Sonnax. OH paper and rubber kits from Transtar primarily
@@nickstransmissionsYessiree and Transtar kits and B&I converters my guess.
Nick I have an 1958 Chevy bel air 348 with turbo glide. I have heard I may want to change my tranny to a th350 or the 700 and specifically go for 87 or later. Is this good advice.
Hi Alan,
If you want to take your Bel Air on the highway more often then, yes I agree with doing the swap but with a couple caveats if you go to a 700R4:
1. You will need to know what your final drive ratio is - if it's something like 2.73 or taller, you'll need to install a 3.23 or 3.42 (or something in that general neighborhood) ring and pinion kit so that you don't potentially stress the transmission (particularly the 3/4 clutch pack) in overdrive
2. The 700R4's cable is what's called a 'Throttle Valve' cable; it's not a kick down cable like the TH350 has. The TV cable set up and adjustment is absolutely critical to the health of the transmission, so depending upon what engine you have, you'll likely need to purchase a mounting bracket for the TV cable to ensure the geometry is correct and validate set up/adjustment via a transmission pressure gauge so you can compare your readings to reference readings...I can reply with a link to some directions to help you w/it.
The TH350 would be the less complex swap of the two but both may require you to modify your driveline (cut and rebalance) depending on the differences in overall length of the turbo glide vs the other two. That and you may need to move the cross member rearwards.
Is there something wrong with your Turbo Glide transmission?
@mytransmissions5390 well I am thinking yes. Haven't heard definitely though. Wouldn't get out of park. Been in the shop for 2 weeks. So just trying to think of options. The turboglide prior to that was running perfect and has 38000 miles on it
Also it's a 348 motor
The previous owner who is ex gm worker and experienced recommended the th350
Gotcha...Wonder if the parking pawl was damaged or guide bent...sorry to hear of it.
The Turbo 350 likely requires less overall cost/effort than a 700R4 so perhaps that was driving the prev owner's recommendation....That said, I've built numerous 700r4s for swaps in to the Tri-Five and similar 50's cars throughout the years so they are a popular swap as well. If you plan on doing some more highway driving and road trips, you'll want overdrive as doing 70mph at 3000 or so rpms gets old fast. It may cost a bit more to do the 700R4 and there may be some additional complexity involved when it comes to installation but it's worth it in my view.
What's critical is the final drive ratio - just making sure it's deep enough for the overdrive is the main consideration.
Oh yes I have subscribed
Awesome, man - thank you.
spray your sandpaper with wd40.. it will still work but wont tear as easily.
You're right - it is a bit more resilient when WD'ed.
also have u tried a product called superzilla? amazing cleaner, lubricant, decarbonizer, many many uses.. non toxic plant based formula.. I buy it by the case.. @@nickstransmissions
No, never heard of it but will check it out...Thanks, Randy.
Keep your fluid and filter changed every 30,000 miles would be about the best maintenance interval. Anyone who believes that todays transmissions can go 100,000 before its first "factory recommended" fluid change is going to find out differently. (Maybe a little longer if you are doing highway miles more than city).
Yep...though I imagine you know why 100k is being pushed...
@@nickstransmissionsMarketing is my guess.
are the snap rings made by Satan himself?
Possibly, haha...Thanks for watching!
So they called the 700-R4 the 4L60 but it is nothing like the 4T60, which is a markedly superior design. 700-R4s almost always start to slip after 150k or so, whereas the 4T60 will last a lot longer. Seems like fraud to make it seem like this was a longitudinal version of the 4T60 with an unnecessary re-designation. It is also fraudulently leading consumers to believe it was a new design when it wasn't. Even going electronic doesn't justify changing the model name. 700-R4E would have worked just fine and not been disingenuous.
IDK why I'm even watching this. While I would like to get another Caprice, I'm definitely putting a T-56 in it if I do. Or maybe I'll do something crazy like a blown VR6 and Quattro AWD. Or maybe I'll toss a Corvette powertrain and suspension at it. I always did like transverse rear leaf springs. Still miss my '89 Cutlass Supreme. It is one of the few cars I regretted selling.
GM's automatic transmission naming convention consists of the following: number of forward gears, a drive train orientation and torque handling capability based on numerical value...so 4L60 is broken down as follows:
4 = no. of forward gears
L = longitudinal engine orientation (rear wheel drive)
60 = torque rating capacity indicator once torque multiplication is accounted for
So the 4L60, 4L60E and 4T60/4T60E would not necessarily have anything in common save for the fact they are GM automatic transmissions that have four forward gears in 'Drive' or 'D4'. Beyond that, they are completely different designs that were intended to satisfy completely different powertrain requirements.
Like most automatic transmissions, both of those units have their warts, including a weak direct clutch. But saying GM committed 'Fraud' isn't an accurate characterization...If they had rated the 4L60 the same as the 4L80, that would be fraudulent, or at very minimum, willfully deceptive. But nothing like that happened...
They simply changed the naming convention for their automatic transmissions and transaxles, nothing more. Ford and Dodge did the exact same thing on/around the same time frame. For example, the AOD/AODE ---> 4R70, 4R75; E4OD ---> 4R100...Dodge 727 ---> 36RH, 37RH...Some name changes coincided with component engineering changes, others did not.
Lastly, your watching this video because it's great stuff, lol🍺
Thanks for taking the time to view and comment, Lurch-bot.
What a comeback