Trad Climbing "The Seal" 5.10a/b | Looking Glass Rock, NC
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2023
- I've always wanted to get on this route after seeing many pictures of it. What I was told would be the crux, ended up being rather easy. As I drew nearer to the anchors the difficulty of the climbing steadily increased. The technical footwork required to negotiate the last 30 feet grew on me but I managed to pull it off. This route was very physically demanding but it was every bit of 5.10a footwork. I'll never get used to the learning curve of NC slab.
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Edited and Produced by: Tim Wheatley - Спорт
When I climbed the first pitch in 1989 the guide book said it was 5.9. It thought it was considerably harder. I felt like a chump, blowing hard on a 5.9. I feel better now seeing it rated 10a/b. I think most people keep their heads out of the big crack and do the burly undercling all the way across that section, making a run for the narrower part and some protection. Few people had the the cams for the wide stuff back then. That's the way I did it. I haven't seen it done your way. Nice job. You're really good with your gear and feet.
You should do the second pitch of this route too. It's pretty good and ends at a nice ledge. Double rope rappel from there.
Also, NC Slab is great! It's really fun when it finally clicks and you can just walk up 5.9 slab confidently! So fun.
Thanks i really love feedback like this! Its such an amzing route, although i haven't heard great things about the following pitches and when i was doing some aid it looked dirty. Perhaps it may clean up nicely and just needs some love! Apparently theres some hidden jug on the outside of the wide part making it way easier. LOL
still a sub5.9 leader - got to say - the way that you preplan your gear placements (put piece in your hand before youre at the location), rerack cams to the front that you know youll need for an upcoming section, just overall efficiency of placing pro....so smooth! very clean style.
Haha Thanks! If you want any other beta let me know or if you wanna climb sometime shoot me a dm on instagram!
Nice, glad you made it out to looking glass.
FYI, there’s a big jug on the outside of the flake when it opens up at the top you can grab (blind) and avoids using your head in the flake.
Maybe I’ll see you out there this fall season, I’m headed to Laurel/Whitesides next week Monday/Tuesday I think.
Ill probably see you. Thanks for the beta!
I remember leading that in EBs! Rated 5.9 at that time.
I love the color of that rock. Well done Timmy!
Thanks man!
Placing the First piece so high indicates great psychological stability 👍👍
Absolutley!
And allows the next pieces to zipper if it pulls…
bro what hahahahha
You all are missing out on placing nuts and hexes. Lighter, more placements per unit weight.
great job
Thanks!
Amazing climb man! I’ve been sport climbing like a mad man! I’m ready for trad and that’s the next step I wanna take! I live in Alabama, hit me up sometime man let’s get some climbs in!
Shoot me a dm on instagram! @tim.wheat_
do you think there was a way to jam in the wide section of the crack? I haven't climbed that route yet, but it looks so cool.
It is so cool. I don't think theres any way to jam in it as its like a foot wide. You'd have to go inverted or something ridiculous.
@@climbingforlife1 i have been training for century crack, so maybe its a technique kinda like that. if i go there ill try something
Its like circus circus on steroids.
Yes it is!
Dialed great job
Thanks!
Did you climb this the same day as me?
Naw twin
Can't be an onsite; too quick with the placements. But, well done.
I promise this was an onsite lol
Lol don't be silly, just cause you can't size gear quickly doesn't mean others can't. I thought he was slow on some placements that were obvious
@@evansnipes7473thank you but also lol
You could slow down a bit... Where's the rush?
Nah its not about moving fast, its about being efficient. Climbing quickly through the easy bits and more slow and thoughtfully through the hard sections is the way to do it.