The vaseline trick is amazing. Didn't think it was going to work until it did! Saved me lots of time. Thanks so much, you rock. Very quick, smooth installation.
A very useful video! Note: DO NOT plug the harness into the factory wiring connector until you are done, and then do it from the back seat with the trunk *closed*! Otherwise you will blow the fuse. Ask me how I know. The instructions *do* say to be sure the power is off when you plug it in...
Great Job and the best of the tutorial out there. Clear, concise, and well organized. Would suggest using Silicone Dielectric Grease instead of Vaseline as a lubricant to fish cables thru the rubber boot. Also, Geraldo is right, the end connectors are pretty fragile and some other folks on videos did damage them. A trick to protect them is get some Tread Protectors from the hardware store. Use the Red one which is small and moderately snug. Put those over the bare connectors before you tape the Fish wire and tape them together. The use of a Wire Tie end as a short semi rigid Fish tool is pretty slick. Don't overlook his suggestion.
Great video - best that I've seen ! I'm glad you showed that you tested the lights -before- replacing all the panels. One of the connector pairs may not have been seated all the way in its mate - you won't know til you test it. Toyota and Honda connectors and wiring are top-notch and generally foolproof, though.
Thank you for this! I installed this afternoon with your method, and it was great. I actually had to use the driver's side grommet instead of passenger side, though.
Great install video.Took.about a half hour to 45 minutes the most time consuming part was fishing the white through the rubber tubing leading to the hatch enclosure.
I used a hydroflask straw that was big enough for the wire to snake through the bigger rubber tube. I lubed up the exterior of the straw, fed it through, the lubed the cable a little and slid it through the straw. Put the straw back through and boom! Saved so much time! 6:47
These guys owe you some money! I was ready to return this as soon as I opened the package. My instructions were all in Chinese! I had to replace the fuse instantly for some reason but it’s all good now. Also, a slight difference was mine came with the connector to y-cable already installed so I had to cut and splice back together with wire connectors.
Thanks voor this video! Very helpful. Everything works fine. Only thing I changed were the tie-wraps. I used an electric copper wire. Pushed this from the small hole forward. When it was through, I folded a hook. Taped the cable ends together to protect them, then attach the taped cable to the copper wire with tape. I pulled everything through with a little Vaseline. Worked without any difficulty and very quickly. With the tie-wraps method I expierienced too much resistance for the tie-wraps and the hole at the end was very tiny and difficult to reach for me.
I just installed them and it was so much easier with your video! I reviewed it and they went in great. I used a spray lubricant instead of Vaseline, but without the heads up on lubing the fish line, it would have been so much harder! Thanks again for sharing all the details!!!
Very nice ; I want to add a little comment : just be careful with the led pannels : they are different, so you must put them correctly ( left to left and right to right).
An alternative to the Vasoline is to spray a bit of rubbing alcohol for some lubrication. It will evaporate after and leave no residue. Great video. Thanks.
Can we not just bypass the inserting of the wire through the rubber tubing or grommet . Why insert it when no electrical connection thereto. Why not just tape it around the grommet ?? Thanks
Each light panel will only fit into one particular side. You can't tell by just looking at them, and they don't seem to be marked 'left' and 'right'. Each one just fits better and will pop into its cutout with just moderate force. You'll see that if one is trying to be fitted into its opposite side it will appear to be just slightly out of shape for that cutout. ------ When pulling thru the first cable that 'T'-s off from the existing small right side light cable, be sure to leave cable slack down there. The in-line fuse for the new hatch lights is located about 8 inches up from the bottom end of the T cable. If you ever need to replace that fuse there will then be enough cable slack to pull the fuse holder out the lamp hole to change the fuse. ------ Before even starting the install process, be SURE to cut power to the existing right side light circuit. This CAN NOT be done with any of the car's switches or controls. I'm sure there's a fuse for it... somewhere. You can go find and pull it out temporarily if you want ! The easiest way, by far, to cut power to just this circuit is to use a flat screwdriver to press down the center 'claw' in the hatch latch which locks it into the 'closed' position when closing the hatch. Doing this fools the car into thinking the hatch is closed and cuts power to that circuit. When you really want to close the hatch be SURE to press the touch-sensitive button under the lip of the panel that goes across the middle of the back of the hatch's outside, You do when opening the hatch when it's closed. This powers the solenoid that unlocks the hatch's latch so the hatch can be opened. [I suppose this means that if the battery is (completely ?) dead, the hatch can't be opened at all.]
I blew the glass fuse that came with the led lights. I think it happen when I touched the red and white wire together. I replace it with a 5amp fuse from Auto Zone.
As far as I understand it, the right side conduit is for the wiper fluid tube for the rear wiper. That being the case it seems to be a very bad idea to run the LED power cable via this conduit.
Do these lights only turn on by manually turning them on or it work like the cargo light, it'll turn on after trunk is opened and depending on if you had it set to on/off previously?
Nice video, have you seen the new brake lights? The red LED bar across the back of the car between the lights. Theres also rear brake LED pillars that go on each side of the rear window. That looks like a really cool upgrade
Gerald Otto that’s pretty smart. I think I might do the same. I really like how you did your RAV4. I want to black out my emblems too. At first I wasn’t into the idea of wrapping the headlights but now I’m thinking of the benefit of protection from the sun. So the headlights plastic don’t turn yellow and ugly after a few years.
@@GundamDroid yes at first I didn’t plan to wrap my headlights too, I really like how bright my LED stock headlight is so I don’t want to make it any dimmer. But then I came across that bio pulse hex film, the smoke is light and I really liked that hologram effect. Plus to your point, it will protect the headlight from yellowing
@@Otthox Hi Gerald. Every time I buy a car the first thing what I do is replacing OEM air filter with K&N. I recommend. Good stuff. Also to give your SUV a bit a brutal look I'd think about a bull bar with an extra LED light. Looks great on RAV-4. And usually I put a wider tires. In your case I'd replace original 225/60/18 with 245/55/18. The same overall diameter and the car will change the look forever! Well, of course all this stuff is kind of pricey.
Hey man! Great vid! I’m going to try to do this install this weekend. In the directions, it says to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before starting. Did you do that and is it necessary?
@@Otthox I just installed them today and followed your tutorial step-by-step. The zip tie and vasoline trick didn’t exactly work for me as well as it did for you. Mine got stuck in the between the accordion parts and I had to try to work the rubber thread it through but I got it done. After that, it was a snap. Thank you!
@@zxe038 great job! Yeah it took me a couple of tries to get the cable and zip tie to go thru the rubber.... I had to tape and the zip tie quite all the way up then it worked... this is the hardest part but after that, so easy
Thanks pare. Can you do interior cabin LED tutorial sometime? I ended up returning the LEDs since I couldn't remove the cover for the driver overhead light salamat
you mean the middle map light in the front? if so yeah, when I just got the car I tried opening it and it was really tough... that's the only interior light the ti haven't changed. But I'll tinker again and see if I can open it, I'll let you know.
Mine are not turning on. I matched the wire colors, checked the fuse connection. The side light turns on, so there must be something wrong with the end you connect to the Y cable.
You fuse could have blown up. My fuse didn’t blew up when installing but I heard that this is common problem. Try getting a new fuse and see if it works
Ahh you're right! All this time I didn't realize I never put the clip on opening the center panel in this video...my bad I did this in my other video if it's any help at 1:16: ua-cam.com/video/_p7UKI_jKho/v-deo.html
@@Otthox It appears you linked the same video. I'm sure I can find it by hunting through, but just letting you know so you can correct it for others. Thank you!
@@adrianmsantangelo yes sorry, I was going to put the video link but I couldn’t see my comments in UA-cam for whatever reason. Anyway, please check out this video of mine on how to remove the center panel at 1:16: ua-cam.com/video/_p7UKI_jKho/v-deo.html Sorry for missing putting the clip in the video on how to remove that center panel
Its a BAD IDEA TO USE VASELINE as a lubricant because it is petroleum-based. All petroleum products deteriorate artificial rubbers (with the exception of Neoprene and whatever gas and hydraulic fluid lines are made from). Use SILICON GREASE - AKA 'DIELECTRIC GREASE'. Products labeled 'dielectric grease' are far less expensive than those labeled 'silicon grease'. // It use can put up with the mess both WD-40 and silicon aerosol spray will work fine and not damage the soft rubber boot.
The vaseline trick is amazing. Didn't think it was going to work until it did! Saved me lots of time. Thanks so much, you rock. Very quick, smooth installation.
A very useful video!
Note: DO NOT plug the harness into the factory wiring connector until you are done, and then do it from the back seat with the trunk *closed*! Otherwise you will blow the fuse. Ask me how I know.
The instructions *do* say to be sure the power is off when you plug it in...
Great Job and the best of the tutorial out there. Clear, concise, and well organized. Would suggest using Silicone Dielectric Grease instead of Vaseline as a lubricant to fish cables thru the rubber boot. Also, Geraldo is right, the end connectors are pretty fragile and some other folks on videos did damage them. A trick to protect them is get some Tread Protectors from the hardware store. Use the Red one which is small and moderately snug. Put those over the bare connectors before you tape the Fish wire and tape them together. The use of a Wire Tie end as a short semi rigid Fish tool is pretty slick. Don't overlook his suggestion.
I wrapped the connectors with tape before taping them to the zip ties. Worked like a charm!
This video is amazing. Thank you for sharing your process for installing these lights. The vaseline and zip tie method worked like a charm.
Great video - best that I've seen ! I'm glad you showed that you tested the lights -before- replacing all the panels. One of the connector pairs may not have been seated all the way in its mate - you won't know til you test it. Toyota and Honda connectors and wiring are top-notch and generally foolproof, though.
Thank you so much for this video! It saved me a lot of time, and the zip ties through the boot with Vaseline worked great!
Thank you for this! I installed this afternoon with your method, and it was great. I actually had to use the driver's side grommet instead of passenger side, though.
Did the install today using this video, was pretty much spot on- thanks!
Great install video.Took.about a half hour to 45 minutes the most time consuming part was fishing the white through the rubber tubing leading to the hatch enclosure.
I want several videos before I install my lights and I did it exactly like you did.
Awesome video , no music needed. THKS
I used a hydroflask straw that was big enough for the wire to snake through the bigger rubber tube. I lubed up the exterior of the straw, fed it through, the lubed the cable a little and slid it through the straw. Put the straw back through and boom! Saved so much time! 6:47
These guys owe you some money! I was ready to return this as soon as I opened the package. My instructions were all in Chinese!
I had to replace the fuse instantly for some reason but it’s all good now. Also, a slight difference was mine came with the connector to y-cable already installed so I had to cut and splice back together with wire connectors.
Thanks voor this video! Very helpful. Everything works fine. Only thing I changed were the tie-wraps. I used an electric copper wire. Pushed this from the small hole forward. When it was through, I folded a hook. Taped the cable ends together to protect them, then attach the taped cable to the copper wire with tape. I pulled everything through with a little Vaseline. Worked without any difficulty and very quickly. With the tie-wraps method I expierienced too much resistance for the tie-wraps and the hole at the end was very tiny and difficult to reach for me.
this video really useful when i installed the trunk Led lamp. specially, using vaceline tip. LOL.
So precise application. More like an OCD man like me. This is the best & cleanest method as far as I know comparing from other vlogs. Thanks man.
Thank you appreciate it... That's right I'm definitely a bit OCD!
Great tips and neat idea with the zip tie for the wire pull through the rubber grommet...thanks.
Thanks for this video! I watched a few others and I liked your method the best. Took me over an hour though.
Great video. I love that it is literally step by step… nice job! I’m putting the same ones in my Rav 4 tomorrow. Thanks
I just installed them and it was so much easier with your video! I reviewed it and they went in great. I used a spray lubricant instead of Vaseline, but without the heads up on lubing the fish line, it would have been so much harder! Thanks again for sharing all the details!!!
Very nice ; I want to add a little comment : just be careful with the led pannels : they are different, so you must put them correctly ( left to left and right to right).
An alternative to the Vasoline is to spray a bit of rubbing alcohol for some lubrication. It will evaporate after and leave no residue.
Great video. Thanks.
Oh rubbing alcohol also provides some lubrication? I didn’t know that, thanks for the tips!
@@Otthox yes. I use it to install rubber grips on bikes all the time. And to help bike tires to seat on tight rims.
Great job young man, your tips were great 👍👍 Godspeed.
Excellent video - I have the LED lights on the way hopefully as easy to install as you have done :)
Done my LED upgrade today and all working perfectly :)
Best video on this subject.
You're a great man Gerald! Thanks 4 your help.
I'll be slowly doing all these upgrades to my 2021 RAV4 LE
Thank you so much for this video I followed your advice and I was done in 20 minutes the Vaseline trick works great
That’s awesome thanks for watching!
This is awesome. Thank you!
Great video. I'm going to buy these lights and install them following your steps. You made it look super simple.
The hardest part would be pulling that wire thru the rubber boot... took me a couple of tries, but once you pass that, it’s a breeze
Can we not just bypass the inserting of the wire through the rubber tubing or grommet . Why insert it when no electrical connection thereto. Why not just tape it around the grommet ??
Thanks
Thank you for an excellent and super-informative video. WELL DONE! Subscribed.
My mother in law bought me this set for Christmas, but, I have a 2021 model. Will this kit still work? Everything to me points to yes. Thanks
Each light panel will only fit into one particular side. You can't tell by just looking at them, and they don't seem to be marked 'left' and 'right'. Each one just fits better and will pop into its cutout with just moderate force. You'll see that if one is trying to be fitted into its opposite side it will appear to be just slightly out of shape for that cutout. ------ When pulling thru the first cable that 'T'-s off from the existing small right side light cable, be sure to leave cable slack down there. The in-line fuse for the new hatch lights is located about 8 inches up from the bottom end of the T cable. If you ever need to replace that fuse there will then be enough cable slack to pull the fuse holder out the lamp hole to change the fuse. ------ Before even starting the install process, be SURE to cut power to the existing right side light circuit. This CAN NOT be done with any of the car's switches or controls. I'm sure there's a fuse for it... somewhere. You can go find and pull it out temporarily if you want ! The easiest way, by far, to cut power to just this circuit is to use a flat screwdriver to press down the center 'claw' in the hatch latch which locks it into the 'closed' position when closing the hatch. Doing this fools the car into thinking the hatch is closed and cuts power to that circuit. When you really want to close the hatch be SURE to press the touch-sensitive button under the lip of the panel that goes across the middle of the back of the hatch's outside, You do when opening the hatch when it's closed. This powers the solenoid that unlocks the hatch's latch so the hatch can be opened. [I suppose this means that if the battery is (completely ?) dead, the hatch can't be opened at all.]
Did the install but the lights don't turn on neither does the cargo side light but all other interior lights work fine. Is there a fix for this?
Did you ever find a fix? Was it a fuse?
I blew the glass fuse that came with the led lights. I think it happen when I touched the red and white wire together. I replace it with a 5amp fuse from Auto Zone.
Oh... yes, I read some reviews that some people had this problem when installing. Thankfully mine didn’t blow out
Happened to me also. Darn.
You definitely do not want to plug the end next to the cargo bulb where it gets power from until you have it routed and in the connector.
I wish I saw this comment before I install the lights
As far as I understand it, the right side conduit is for the wiper fluid tube for the rear wiper. That being the case it seems to be a very bad idea to run the LED power cable via this conduit.
Why is that a bad idea? Honest question as I’m learning
@@Otthox you know it's bad to mix electricity and liquids right? Seems like it's not worth the risk to put them in the same conduit
Some of the other install videos I've seen of this use the left conduit specifically because the right side one has the tube for the rear wiper fluid.
Excellent.
Do these lights only turn on by manually turning them on or it work like the cargo light, it'll turn on after trunk is opened and depending on if you had it set to on/off previously?
Nice video, have you seen the new brake lights? The red LED bar across the back of the car between the lights. Theres also rear brake LED pillars that go on each side of the rear window. That looks like a really cool upgrade
Yes, it’s been on my eBay watch list for months. They all shipped from China, I’m waiting till there is one ship from the US
Gerald Otto that’s pretty smart. I think I might do the same. I really like how you did your RAV4. I want to black out my emblems too. At first I wasn’t into the idea of wrapping the headlights but now I’m thinking of the benefit of protection from the sun. So the headlights plastic don’t turn yellow and ugly after a few years.
@@GundamDroid yes at first I didn’t plan to wrap my headlights too, I really like how bright my LED stock headlight is so I don’t want to make it any dimmer. But then I came across that bio pulse hex film, the smoke is light and I really liked that hologram effect. Plus to your point, it will protect the headlight from yellowing
Hi what brand of rubber mat do you have to protect your trunk mat and the back of your rear seats?
It’s the Toyota OEM cargo liner. I have a video on it, the part numbers also in the description of the video: ua-cam.com/video/IO8n6foWOq0/v-deo.html
nice one kuya
Does it work for you 2018 model?
Great job! What's next?
Alfa Alpha thank you! I have one lined up for exterior and another one for interior. Any more ideas?
@@Otthox Hi Gerald. Every time I buy a car the first thing what I do is replacing OEM air filter with K&N. I recommend. Good stuff. Also to give your SUV a bit a brutal look I'd think about a bull bar with an extra LED light. Looks great on RAV-4. And usually I put a wider tires. In your case I'd replace original 225/60/18 with 245/55/18. The same overall diameter and the car will change the look forever! Well, of course all this stuff is kind of pricey.
@@alfaalpha5194 hey thanks for the suggestion! I’ll research and think about it
@@Otthox Good point. Don't listen anybody and always do your research first.
I did the same exact process and they don't work...I checked the fuse and it's fine.
Hey man! Great vid! I’m going to try to do this install this weekend. In the directions, it says to disconnect the negative terminal on the battery before starting. Did you do that and is it necessary?
I didn’t disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and the lights work fine for me
@@Otthox Thank you!
@@Otthox I just installed them today and followed your tutorial step-by-step. The zip tie and vasoline trick didn’t exactly work for me as well as it did for you. Mine got stuck in the between the accordion parts and I had to try to work the rubber thread it through but I got it done. After that, it was a snap. Thank you!
@@zxe038 great job! Yeah it took me a couple of tries to get the cable and zip tie to go thru the rubber.... I had to tape and the zip tie quite all the way up then it worked... this is the hardest part but after that, so easy
Thanks pare. Can you do interior cabin LED tutorial sometime? I ended up returning the LEDs since I couldn't remove the cover for the driver overhead light salamat
you mean the middle map light in the front? if so yeah, when I just got the car I tried opening it and it was really tough... that's the only interior light the ti haven't changed. But I'll tinker again and see if I can open it, I'll let you know.
@@Otthox you can remove the whole over head assembly with 4 red trim clips on the corner. Bulbs are accessible from the back.
Can you set these lights so they come on when the trunk is open and off when it is closed? Or do you have to turn them on yourself every time
The light will come on automatically when the trunk is open and shut off when you close the Trunk, it's automatic
Mine are not turning on. I matched the wire colors, checked the fuse connection. The side light turns on, so there must be something wrong with the end you connect to the Y cable.
You fuse could have blown up. My fuse didn’t blew up when installing but I heard that this is common problem. Try getting a new fuse and see if it works
Did you ever figure this out? Mine isn't turning on and I also checked the fuse.
@@mejaii Yes, I went through 2 of these and BOTH had a bad fuse. I took it to a car audio shop and they gave me a good fuse for $5
@@TheBikingViking this is me! I literally installed twice, bought a second set. I'm going to buy a different fuse. Thanks. Thought I was going nuts.
Oops ! You said you were going to take off the upper trim panel, but then you completely skipped that step.
I am a manufacturer of electric tailgates for cars, can we cooperate?
Thanks for skipping the important step of removing the center panel... 👍
Ahh you're right! All this time I didn't realize I never put the clip on opening the center panel in this video...my bad
I did this in my other video if it's any help at 1:16:
ua-cam.com/video/_p7UKI_jKho/v-deo.html
@@Otthox It appears you linked the same video. I'm sure I can find it by hunting through, but just letting you know so you can correct it for others. Thank you!
@@adrianmsantangelo yes sorry, I was going to put the video link but I couldn’t see my comments in UA-cam for whatever reason.
Anyway, please check out this video of mine on how to remove the center panel at 1:16:
ua-cam.com/video/_p7UKI_jKho/v-deo.html
Sorry for missing putting the clip in the video on how to remove that center panel
This guy… Removing the center panel is the easiest part of the whole process c’mon lmao great video brother 🤙🏼
Its a BAD IDEA TO USE VASELINE as a lubricant because it is petroleum-based. All petroleum products deteriorate artificial rubbers (with the exception of Neoprene and whatever gas and hydraulic fluid lines are made from). Use SILICON GREASE - AKA 'DIELECTRIC GREASE'. Products labeled 'dielectric grease' are far less expensive than those labeled 'silicon grease'. // It use can put up with the mess both WD-40 and silicon aerosol spray will work fine and not damage the soft rubber boot.
Dizzy as hell watching this video. 😵
He had too much coffee...
I got dizzy watching this video.
Vaseline is a VERY BAD IDEA! Instead, use WD-40 Specialist silicone spray (or similar), sparingly!!