Midwest reaction rod is better than the G$ one. I personally just use a couple 1x4's, one being cut to fit in between the upper lugs. If I was gonna get a handguard that needed to be timed, I'd probably get something like the Midwest tool. I have a bev block for the lower, but I don't use it a ton.
I’m gonna order that polymer solutions jig. I’ve been looking for something just like that. Another good tool is the ncstar Vism ar15 lower receiver vise block. Helps keep the receiver extension perfectly straight.
I thought about getting one, but looking at the 5 different receivers that I've either built or changed end plates on, I really didn't even notice anything off about them to warrant me getting it
@@regulardudegungearreviewsh3132 I’ve built 4-5 lowers. On 2 of them the receiver extension is slightly canted and 1 is almost perfect. So I decided to get it just so I don’t have to worry about it anymore. Idk what I was doing wrong but it’s not real noticeable unless you look for it
Out-F-ing-standing video! From a brother in arms. in Commiefornia! I've got the same setup as you Except I use my Mechanic buddy's $800 didgital Snap-On ft-lbs, torque wrench.
Are they really needed though? I typically build AR-15s with a hammer, a flathead screwdriver, pliers and a 2" piece of wire hanger. I do not bother torquing to spec, I torque until I'm comfortable with how tight they are, which is tighter than spec.. because if a bolt can ever be removed, it wasn't tight enough. To double down on that on parts that have exposed threading, such as on the buffer tube, I fuckup the threading (with the hammer and screwdriver) after I'm comfortable with the castle nut tightness, because I don't ever want it to be removed. I have guns that I have put 2500+ rounds through them that are capable of sub-MOA accuracy with match ammo. I really should have a go/nogo gauge, but that's another story.
I also use red loctite on scope mounts, once I'm happy that the scope is perfectly vertical, as tested with a plumb bob at 50 yards compared to the scope level (which I mount on all my scopes). I can always remove the mount from the scope with a dremel by cutting the screws in half if I ever wanted to remove them.
Extremely informative video. Youre a very good speaker. I will be using your advice!
Glad it was useful, and u greatly appreciate the kind feedback!
Great video. You did an excellent job.
Appreciate it sir!
Midwest reaction rod is better than the G$ one. I personally just use a couple 1x4's, one being cut to fit in between the upper lugs. If I was gonna get a handguard that needed to be timed, I'd probably get something like the Midwest tool. I have a bev block for the lower, but I don't use it a ton.
I’m gonna order that polymer solutions jig. I’ve been looking for something just like that. Another good tool is the ncstar Vism ar15 lower receiver vise block. Helps keep the receiver extension perfectly straight.
I thought about getting one, but looking at the 5 different receivers that I've either built or changed end plates on, I really didn't even notice anything off about them to warrant me getting it
@@regulardudegungearreviewsh3132 I’ve built 4-5 lowers. On 2 of them the receiver extension is slightly canted and 1 is almost perfect. So I decided to get it just so I don’t have to worry about it anymore. Idk what I was doing wrong but it’s not real noticeable unless you look for it
@@carls2210 let me know how well it works when u get it!
@@regulardudegungearreviewsh3132 I’ve built 2 lowers with it. I love it.
Out-F-ing-standing video! From a brother in arms. in Commiefornia! I've got the same setup as you Except I use my Mechanic buddy's $800 didgital Snap-On ft-lbs, torque wrench.
Are they really needed though? I typically build AR-15s with a hammer, a flathead screwdriver, pliers and a 2" piece of wire hanger. I do not bother torquing to spec, I torque until I'm comfortable with how tight they are, which is tighter than spec.. because if a bolt can ever be removed, it wasn't tight enough. To double down on that on parts that have exposed threading, such as on the buffer tube, I fuckup the threading (with the hammer and screwdriver) after I'm comfortable with the castle nut tightness, because I don't ever want it to be removed. I have guns that I have put 2500+ rounds through them that are capable of sub-MOA accuracy with match ammo.
I really should have a go/nogo gauge, but that's another story.
I can't tell if you're trolling or serious 🤣
@regulardudegungearreviewsh3132 100% serious. Even with high end parts like Cobalt Kinetics parts and proof research barrels.
I also use red loctite on scope mounts, once I'm happy that the scope is perfectly vertical, as tested with a plumb bob at 50 yards compared to the scope level (which I mount on all my scopes). I can always remove the mount from the scope with a dremel by cutting the screws in half if I ever wanted to remove them.
@@rarelyaccurate6252 you don't even have to bother leveling your scope; just cant your gun til the reticle is straight
@@regulardudegungearreviewsh3132 I put a level on the gun (rail) and a level on the scope tube and a plumb bob so I can level all 3 together
Noooooo......