I swapped out one bar for a fixed "F" stop bar. It was easy to do and cost nothing. Not as good as a full diatonic, but no cost (I made the bar out of scrap.) Your playing is so inspirational so I had to try!
It's such a pleasure to see someone who loves music and loves the autoharp like you do. I'm very happy for you and grateful that you share so much with others. Your playing is beautiful and musically articulate. Thank you, Jo Ann! :)
It sounds lovely... and I'm guessing a diatonic setup wouldn't be a good one for those of us who want a single all-purpose autoharp, say for jam sessions, etc. I already have 4 guitars, just picked up autoharp so I have some musical knowledge making it a bit easier to get passable skills to start (though I'll never be Mike Seeger).
Diatonic setups are the best choice for instrumental work. But fully chromatic setups can be limiting too because they aren’t loud enough to compete with other instruments. For jam sessions and group work, I’d recommend a three-key semi-chromatic that would let you play in 3 1/2 keys. Depending on your repertoire, you could set it up in any three keys that are adjacent in the circle of fifths. For instance, if you play a lot of folk stuff you could have one set up in FCGd. For Bluegrass or Celtic, GDAe. Or CGDa. You’d essentially be dropping a couple of notes from the fully chromatic scale which allows doubling of some notes and lessening the amount of dead wire.
Thanks for that. I haven't heard a sound anything like that since the 1950s when an Australian Zither player called Shirley Abicair visited our home in Ireland, I know nothing about zithers or autoharps but I will be watching your channel to learn a bit more.
Can you please share the details about the standered size of the instrument and what should be the standered size of the strings for the tuned it in perticuler scale...what is the science behind the work...
A lot of very smart people figured all this stuff out a LONG time before I ever began playing. ;) Standards have been determined for string diameters, vibrating lengths, body volume, frame shape and stability, tonal characteristics of various woods and combinations of woods, etc. The makers of custom autoharps and autoharp strings are well versed in what works and what doesn't -- because there's a combined knowledge of about 6 decades worth of sharing within the community, both of successes and failures, resulting in ever-increasing quality of sound and form. Although the autoharp was invented and marketed in the early 1900's, the standard size and configuration was perfected in the 1960's and 1970's by several people working in concert with Oscar Schmidt Company. The autoharps you see today are based upon the developments made at that time and the discoveries and refinements that have occurred since. You can find an abundance of information about this and other topics in "The Autoharp Owner's Manual", by Mary Lou Orthey. (It's on Amazon).
@@sumitduragkar1177 You're very welcome. There are a lot of online sources for information as well. If you're on Facebook, look up the Autoharp group. (It's a private group, meaning you have to request membership, but it's only set up that way to reduce fake accounts/spam.) It's a great place to ask questions and share information with other players and builders.
@@autoharpist yah...I join it today .they approve me as wel ... My self Sumit Duragkar ( fb name ) from India....I like your post also on your page...Jo Ann Smith harpist..,
I am belong to ruler area so generally people don't share thair knowledge I think they have a fear that if they give it will reduce ...😂😂😂 But any way you feel me positive for the same thing.,..thank you ..
I was given one of these, a chromatic, a long time ago and just found it. They have such a soothing sound and it helps that you play beautifully. I'm inspired to tune it now and will now probably go search for a pickup 👍... And maybe mod it to diatonic. Thanks for sharing your talent and expertise.
Are you married? No... but seriously, beautiful instrument and beautifully played. Very pretty arrangements on all your uploaded songs as well. The first autoharp shown in this clip sounds really crisp. Good luck with the harpying and keep posting songs if it isn't too much of a bother :). Cheers.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. They are great. What kind of an amp are you using and what is the white thing in the foreground? Is it a mike? If so, what type? Thanks again so much.
There are no left-handed manufactured autoharps, such as those made by Oscar Schmidt or Chromaharp. You would have to look into a custom luthier build in order to get a left-handed version, or get extremely lucky and find a used left-handed one. It would be a serious investment - but if you’re serious about learning you’d be a jump ahead. Most players start out on a manufactured autoharp but typically move up to a luthier instrument.
I didn't know you can covert autoharps from chromatic to diatonic or a diatonic to a chromatic and changing chord bars. I know you can change the strings on it just like other string instruments.
Jo Ann, your videos are always so informative and your playing is just lovely. It makes me feel so great to hear you play. I'm considering converting my OS 21 C Chromatic to a diatonic but am not sure if it should be in one Key or not. What would you suggest? The strings I have are relatively new, am wondering if I can use those or switch some of them out? Thanks for your wonderful videos, I find them both informative and inspiring!
Hi, Linda. One of the easiest diatonic conversions to do on a chromatic autoharp is single-key C. You can use the existing strings, and basically all you would do it tune all of the sharps down one half step to their natural. So all the C#’s become C, all the D#’s become D, all the F#’s become F, etc., etc. You would then re-felt the bars to fit the new key. If you do a two-key conversion, F/C would be the only option using the existing strings. Two-keys are more than possible on a 21-chord, but if you want to pursue open-noting (one of the main benefits of a diatonic) you will need two lock bars. Lock bars *can* be fashioned with the 21-C OS bar set, but it would be something a luthier would have to do for you. If you play regularly with other people, a 2-key diatonic will be more flexible, but if you’re playing for your own enjoyment, the single-key will give you more options for color chords and, IMO, is easier to master. I can provide you with a template if you’re interested.
@@autoharpist Thanks so Much!!! It sounds simple enough. If I did the 2 key F/C conversion would I still do the tuning the same? I'm thinking of getting a new set of chord bars rather than stick with the original OS buttons and plastic case. I'm assuming I could get that set up from a luthier with the lock bars. I'm waiting for a custom d'Aigle at the moment which will be a chromatic and so am thinking of converting my OS to a diatonic. I have the Autoharp Manual. I can probably get the chord bars from Pete. I think there is a template in there for the conversion to C or F/C.. Just to let you know, your videos both inspired me and convinced me to buy the OC and learn to play it, not as well as you of course. Many thanks, I do have your 21C template for cutting felts which is invaluable.....
So is what makes it a diatonic the chord bars or the strings. Do you just tune the strings like a regular chromatic autoharp from low F to the very high C, and then the chord bars are cut to what ever key you want it. For example, I usually sing melody in key of C or B flat. Would the chord bars be C Dm Em F G G7 Am B diminished for a true key of C scale? I know how to cut my own felts for any chord I want. I've put a whole set of strings on an old autoharp and refelted all the chord bars just fine, but I still can't comprehend diatonic vs chromatic tuning.
Theory stuff can be mind-numbing, but it makes the most sense to me when I think of it as it relates to a piano keyboard. A chromatic scale contains 12 notes per octave. So if you start with C as being "one" and move up the keyboard pressing every key along the way (including the black keys), you will end up hitting 12 notes before arriving back at the next C. That is a chromatic scale. Twelve notes per octave, all the sharps and flats. In other words, all of the white and black keys on the piano. A diatonic scale only contains the notes present for a specific key. Let's use the key of C. The key of C has no sharps or flats. So if you start on C at the keyboard and count upward, hitting only the white keys this time, you will hit 7 notes before coming back to C again.
Converting a chromatic autoharp to a diatonic is easiest to describe using the key of C. Basically, you would take all of the strings labeled "#" and tune them down one-half step. So F# would become F and D# would become D, etc. What you end up with is a lot of doubled notes. You would then cut the felt on your chord bars to open up all those newly "naturalized" strings. So your chord bar for C major will most likely have twice the number of strings open and ringing than it did before.
The obvious downside to tuning an autoharp to a single key is that you will only be able to construct chords that are made up of the seven notes for that key. You'll end up with 3 majors, 3 minors, and one dominant 7th. For the key of C, that would be F, C and G major, D, A and E minor, and G7. You can't have a D major chord because you need an F# for that chord and you don't have one. But the upside of a diatonic conversion is that you now have room for all kinds of non-standard chords like suspended 4ths, minor 7ths, major sevenths, etc. which can add a lot of complexity to your arrangements. Having all of those doubled notes (strings) means more volume. AND (in my opinion, the best part) - you can pull off grabbing occasional notes without using a chord bar at all. It's a technique called "open-noting".
I know wood makes a difference in the sound. I've got an OS with a spruce top, light colored wood and it has a prettier sound than my OS dark burgundy sunburst top.
The type of wood does indeed affect the overall tone, and spruce is one of the best for soundboards. But there are other factors at play as well. Because the autoharp body needs to withstand the tremendous tension of 36 strings tuned up to pitch and pulling on opposite ends, the box is typically constructed using 8-ply maple pinblock. There is also internal bracing, and the soundboard (top) is typically twice as thick or more when compared to other stringed instruments. This results in very little vibration of the top and is why most autoharps have trouble being loud enough to be heard unamplified.
Здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста, я решил приобрести цитру и научиться хорошо играть, решил купить цитру с 21 лад, но посмотрел видео и понял, что звуковая палитра более яркая и широкая на цитре с 11 ладами, чем это объясняется, может она для камерных выступлений? Stich104@yandex.ru
This is the Google translation of your message to English -- I hope it's accurate! Hello, please tell me, I decided to get a zither and learn how to play well, I decided to buy a zither with 21 frets, but I watched the video and realized that the sound palette is brighter and wider on a zither with 11 frets, what explains this, maybe it is for chamber performances? Причина, по которой звук звучит ярче, связана с настройкой струн, а не с количеством аккордов. Настройка меняется с 12-нотной хроматической шкалы на 7-клавишную одноклавишную шкалу. Например, если вы удалите все черные клавиши на пианино, у вас будет пианино с семью разными нотами на несколько октав. Нет острых предметов или квартир, поэтому пианино может воспроизводить только песни на тональности C. Это теория, основанная на одноклавишном, или диатоническом, автофокусе. The reason that the sound is brighter is due to the string tuning, not the number of chord bars. The tuning is changed from a 12-note, chromatic scale to a 7-note, single-key scale. For example, if you were to remove all of the black keys on a piano, you would have a piano with only seven different notes over several octaves. No sharps or flats, so the piano could only play songs in the key of C. This is the theory behind a single-key, or diatonic, autoharp.
Such a pity that Oscar Schmidt doesn't make these great chordbars on his autoharps. Where can you sell these special chordbars? Probably only in the States? Wow you are such a good player, and you explain so clearly! Roeleke
I swapped out one bar for a fixed "F" stop bar. It was easy to do and cost nothing. Not as good as a full diatonic, but no cost (I made the bar out of scrap.) Your playing is so inspirational so I had to try!
Super playing n teaching!!😅
You did a great job!
I play that on my 30 string celtic harp
Jo Ann, you are an inspiration to all of us wishing to get that diatonic sound we have all come to love and appreciate. Thank you so very much !!!!
Jo Ann....it is such a blessing that you so freely, and enthusiastically share your talent and knowledge. Thank You!! :)
Really nice to see someone enthusiastic about her instrument and keen to share advice.
Thank you so much. As a life long musical instrument maker, this is a must! Soooo beautiful!
Thanks for the Autoharp Owners Manual recommendation. It really is a must. I got a hard copy AND eBook now on every computer, phone and iPad I have.
You're welcome. The articles included in this compilation are ones that I turn to again and again for their wealth of information.
It's such a pleasure to see someone who loves music and loves the autoharp like you do. I'm very happy for you and grateful that you share so much with others. Your playing is beautiful and musically articulate. Thank you, Jo Ann! :)
She is honestly so inspiring. Thank you so much.
It sounds lovely... and I'm guessing a diatonic setup wouldn't be a good one for those of us who want a single all-purpose autoharp, say for jam sessions, etc. I already have 4 guitars, just picked up autoharp so I have some musical knowledge making it a bit easier to get passable skills to start (though I'll never be Mike Seeger).
Diatonic setups are the best choice for instrumental work. But fully chromatic setups can be limiting too because they aren’t loud enough to compete with other instruments. For jam sessions and group work, I’d recommend a three-key semi-chromatic that would let you play in 3 1/2 keys. Depending on your repertoire, you could set it up in any three keys that are adjacent in the circle of fifths. For instance, if you play a lot of folk stuff you could have one set up in FCGd. For Bluegrass or Celtic, GDAe. Or CGDa. You’d essentially be dropping a couple of notes from the fully chromatic scale which allows doubling of some notes and lessening the amount of dead wire.
Great +++!😅
Thanks for that. I haven't heard a sound anything like that since the 1950s when an Australian Zither player called Shirley Abicair visited our home in Ireland, I know nothing about zithers or autoharps but I will be watching your channel to learn a bit more.
Darth Dog Welcome! Glad you like my channel. The autoharp does indeed have an amazing sound! More videos to come.
I love the sound of Fanny Power on the Autoharp and you do such a good job.
Beautiful playing. I love the song play at 3:30 of this video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to do this. I appreciate what you do.
Thank you, Jo Ann, for sharing your knowlege with us.
Oh you did a great job with this autoharp, the sound is really nice!
Thank you.
You’re welcome!
sounds so pretty good for the soul :)
wonderfull playing and explanations ...
I also have one , a cheap one of the seventies , but I am more a guitar player
Though I can't play this autoharp, I enjoyed a lot from this video, thanks for sharing!
thank you Jo Ann.
Beautiful! So inspiring. What kind of amplifier is that?
Thanks! The amplifier is a Fishman Soloamp 220. I have since replaced it with a Fender Acoustic 100.
I love your Amazing Grace cross on your wall.
Thank you!
Can you please share the details about the standered size of the instrument and what should be the standered size of the strings for the tuned it in perticuler scale...what is the science behind the work...
A lot of very smart people figured all this stuff out a LONG time before I ever began playing. ;) Standards have been determined for string diameters, vibrating lengths, body volume, frame shape and stability, tonal characteristics of various woods and combinations of woods, etc. The makers of custom autoharps and autoharp strings are well versed in what works and what doesn't -- because there's a combined knowledge of about 6 decades worth of sharing within the community, both of successes and failures, resulting in ever-increasing quality of sound and form. Although the autoharp was invented and marketed in the early 1900's, the standard size and configuration was perfected in the 1960's and 1970's by several people working in concert with Oscar Schmidt Company. The autoharps you see today are based upon the developments made at that time and the discoveries and refinements that have occurred since. You can find an abundance of information about this and other topics in "The Autoharp Owner's Manual", by Mary Lou Orthey. (It's on Amazon).
@@autoharpist thank you so much..
I like your helping nature.. god bless you, I think you are the real artist..
@@sumitduragkar1177 You're very welcome. There are a lot of online sources for information as well. If you're on Facebook, look up the Autoharp group. (It's a private group, meaning you have to request membership, but it's only set up that way to reduce fake accounts/spam.) It's a great place to ask questions and share information with other players and builders.
@@autoharpist yah...I join it today .they approve me as wel
... My self Sumit Duragkar ( fb name ) from India....I like your post also on your page...Jo Ann Smith harpist..,
I am belong to ruler area so generally people don't share thair knowledge I think they have a fear that if they give it will reduce ...😂😂😂 But any way you feel me positive for the same thing.,..thank you ..
I was given one of these, a chromatic, a long time ago and just found it. They have such a soothing sound and it helps that you play beautifully. I'm inspired to tune it now and will now probably go search for a pickup 👍... And maybe mod it to diatonic. Thanks for sharing your talent and expertise.
You're welcome! Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks Jo Ann for shearing this. Your effort is appreciated. What pickup you are using? Your version of Fanny Power is beautiful on Autoharp
Are you married? No... but seriously, beautiful instrument and beautifully played. Very pretty arrangements on all your uploaded songs as well.
The first autoharp shown in this clip sounds really crisp. Good luck with the harpying and keep posting songs if it isn't too much of a bother :). Cheers.
Thank you so much for all of your videos. They are great. What kind of an amp are you using and what is the white thing in the foreground? Is it a mike? If so, what type?
Thanks again so much.
Are there LEFT HANDED autoharps?
There are no left-handed manufactured autoharps, such as those made by Oscar Schmidt or Chromaharp. You would have to look into a custom luthier build in order to get a left-handed version, or get extremely lucky and find a used left-handed one. It would be a serious investment - but if you’re serious about learning you’d be a jump ahead. Most players start out on a manufactured autoharp but typically move up to a luthier instrument.
I didn't know you can covert autoharps from chromatic to diatonic or a diatonic to a chromatic and changing chord bars. I know you can change the strings on it just like other string instruments.
Jo Ann, your videos are always so informative and your playing is just lovely. It makes me feel so great to hear you play. I'm considering converting my OS 21 C Chromatic to a diatonic but am not sure if it should be in one Key or not. What would you suggest? The strings I have are relatively new, am wondering if I can use those or switch some of them out? Thanks for your wonderful videos, I find them both informative and inspiring!
Hi, Linda. One of the easiest diatonic conversions to do on a chromatic autoharp is single-key C. You can use the existing strings, and basically all you would do it tune all of the sharps down one half step to their natural. So all the C#’s become C, all the D#’s become D, all the F#’s become F, etc., etc. You would then re-felt the bars to fit the new key. If you do a two-key conversion, F/C would be the only option using the existing strings. Two-keys are more than possible on a 21-chord, but if you want to pursue open-noting (one of the main benefits of a diatonic) you will need two lock bars. Lock bars *can* be fashioned with the 21-C OS bar set, but it would be something a luthier would have to do for you. If you play regularly with other people, a 2-key diatonic will be more flexible, but if you’re playing for your own enjoyment, the single-key will give you more options for color chords and, IMO, is easier to master. I can provide you with a template if you’re interested.
@@autoharpist Thanks so Much!!! It sounds simple enough. If I did the 2 key F/C conversion would I still do the tuning the same? I'm thinking of getting a new set of chord bars rather than stick with the original OS buttons and plastic case. I'm assuming I could get that set up from a luthier with the lock bars. I'm waiting for a custom d'Aigle at the moment which will be a chromatic and so am thinking of converting my OS to a diatonic. I have the Autoharp Manual. I can probably get the chord bars from Pete. I think there is a template in there for the conversion to C or F/C.. Just to let you know, your videos both inspired me and convinced me to buy the OC and learn to play it, not as well as you of course. Many thanks, I do have your 21C template for cutting felts which is invaluable.....
So is what makes it a diatonic the chord bars or the strings. Do you just tune the strings like a regular chromatic autoharp from low F to the very high C, and then the chord bars are cut to what ever key you want it. For example, I usually sing melody in key of C or B flat. Would the chord bars be C Dm Em F G G7 Am B diminished for a true key of C scale? I know how to cut my own felts for any chord I want. I've put a whole set of strings on an old autoharp and refelted all the chord bars just fine, but I still can't comprehend diatonic vs chromatic tuning.
Theory stuff can be mind-numbing, but it makes the most sense to me when I think of it as it relates to a piano keyboard. A chromatic scale contains 12 notes per octave. So if you start with C as being "one" and move up the keyboard pressing every key along the way (including the black keys), you will end up hitting 12 notes before arriving back at the next C. That is a chromatic scale. Twelve notes per octave, all the sharps and flats. In other words, all of the white and black keys on the piano. A diatonic scale only contains the notes present for a specific key. Let's use the key of C. The key of C has no sharps or flats. So if you start on C at the keyboard and count upward, hitting only the white keys this time, you will hit 7 notes before coming back to C again.
Converting a chromatic autoharp to a diatonic is easiest to describe using the key of C. Basically, you would take all of the strings labeled "#" and tune them down one-half step. So F# would become F and D# would become D, etc. What you end up with is a lot of doubled notes. You would then cut the felt on your chord bars to open up all those newly "naturalized" strings. So your chord bar for C major will most likely have twice the number of strings open and ringing than it did before.
The obvious downside to tuning an autoharp to a single key is that you will only be able to construct chords that are made up of the seven notes for that key. You'll end up with 3 majors, 3 minors, and one dominant 7th. For the key of C, that would be F, C and G major, D, A and E minor, and G7. You can't have a D major chord because you need an F# for that chord and you don't have one. But the upside of a diatonic conversion is that you now have room for all kinds of non-standard chords like suspended 4ths, minor 7ths, major sevenths, etc. which can add a lot of complexity to your arrangements. Having all of those doubled notes (strings) means more volume. AND (in my opinion, the best part) - you can pull off grabbing occasional notes without using a chord bar at all. It's a technique called "open-noting".
I know wood makes a difference in the sound. I've got an OS with a spruce top, light colored wood and it has a prettier sound than my OS dark burgundy sunburst top.
The type of wood does indeed affect the overall tone, and spruce is one of the best for soundboards. But there are other factors at play as well. Because the autoharp body needs to withstand the tremendous tension of 36 strings tuned up to pitch and pulling on opposite ends, the box is typically constructed using 8-ply maple pinblock. There is also internal bracing, and the soundboard (top) is typically twice as thick or more when compared to other stringed instruments. This results in very little vibration of the top and is why most autoharps have trouble being loud enough to be heard unamplified.
Здравствуйте, подскажите пожалуйста, я решил приобрести цитру и научиться хорошо играть, решил купить цитру с 21 лад, но посмотрел видео и понял, что звуковая палитра более яркая и широкая на цитре с 11 ладами, чем это объясняется, может она для камерных выступлений? Stich104@yandex.ru
This is the Google translation of your message to English -- I hope it's accurate!
Hello, please tell me, I decided to get a zither and learn how to play well, I decided to buy a zither with 21 frets, but I watched the video and realized that the sound palette is brighter and wider on a zither with 11 frets, what explains this, maybe it is for chamber performances?
Причина, по которой звук звучит ярче, связана с настройкой струн, а не с количеством аккордов. Настройка меняется с 12-нотной хроматической шкалы на 7-клавишную одноклавишную шкалу. Например, если вы удалите все черные клавиши на пианино, у вас будет пианино с семью разными нотами на несколько октав. Нет острых предметов или квартир, поэтому пианино может воспроизводить только песни на тональности C. Это теория, основанная на одноклавишном, или диатоническом, автофокусе.
The reason that the sound is brighter is due to the string tuning, not the number of chord bars. The tuning is changed from a 12-note, chromatic scale to a 7-note, single-key scale. For example, if you were to remove all of the black keys on a piano, you would have a piano with only seven different notes over several octaves. No sharps or flats, so the piano could only play songs in the key of C. This is the theory behind a single-key, or diatonic, autoharp.
What amp do you use?
Such a pity that Oscar Schmidt doesn't make these great chordbars on his autoharps. Where can you sell these special chordbars? Probably only in the States? Wow you are such a good player, and you explain so clearly!
Roeleke
👍👍👍👍👍👍
Who made the chordbars?
Tom Fladmark. Just google his name and the word autoharp. He is also the best source for really great autoharp strings.
That's beautiful. Nice to see how you can really spruce-up a rather boring, run-of-the-mill instrument.
it's been said many times, a woman playing an instrument is crazy attractive, and very classy. beautiful playing!