Never made a comment on a video before, but I just wanted to say I'm very glad I stumbled on your channel. Not many DIY videos on w463s out there, so you've got a fan here. About to do a rotor and pad swap on my 2000 Europa G500 (All the fun without the electrical problems...except for one fcking door lock actuator that only works when its humid out! Will also be swapping some worn out drag link ends. A little death wobble thats cramping my style.
spray inside the actuator motor with electrical contact cleaner, let it dry and you should have no issues afterwards .the little red straw on the spray can should be able to reach the motor with just the door panel off,
Interesting idea...Thanks, I'll give that a try! Fortunately, other than some hyperflash on the right signal (which i may have to throw a resistor on) that really has been my only mystery electrical issue so far after 2 years of ownership...well the EL door sills...but those were doomed to fail. :D Cheers!
@@robertmwinkelmann I just fixed the door lock actuator yesterday. There are couple places to check. 1. I greased the round rubber boot at the top of the door lock pin (where you can manually push down on the pin to lock the door). When the motor is weak, the plastic door lock pin cannot push through the round rubber boot due to friction. 2. Grease the lock mechanism and get rid of rust. this will reduce rust. 3. replace door lock actuator. www.ebay.com/itm/New-Car-Auto-Universal-SMALL-MICRO-DOOR-LOCK-Actuator-Motor-2-Wire-12V-DLSM2/252594152272 for $10. It's exactly the same part but a fraction of the OEM. it just works.
You can also use a cheap thin tent peg to remove the pin from the break caliper. Goes in all the way and you can use the short end to tap-tighten from the other side without bashing the bleeder valves.
Thanks! I learnt a few tricks on the way to speed things up while servicing my the freeplay in my front axle bearings. Quick question: what size aloy wheels are you using? I'm asking because I want to upgrade my original break rotors to something like your w463's and may need to get an adapter kit for my calipers.
sorry for the late reply...No I usually don't remove the cap . If you haven't topped up the fluid too much as the pads wear down , there should be plenty of room in the reservoir for the returning fluid and pressure . Some cars leaving the cap on can make pushing the pistons back a bit harder . So sometimes I remove the cap sometimes not .
Great videos! I learn so much from you and as a fellow Canuck enjoy your good natured, low-key Canadian style.
Thanks
Never made a comment on a video before, but I just wanted to say I'm very glad I stumbled on your channel. Not many DIY videos on w463s out there, so you've got a fan here. About to do a rotor and pad swap on my 2000 Europa G500 (All the fun without the electrical problems...except for one fcking door lock actuator that only works when its humid out! Will also be swapping some worn out drag link ends. A little death wobble thats cramping my style.
spray inside the actuator motor with electrical contact cleaner, let it dry and you should have no issues afterwards .the little red straw on the spray can should be able to reach the motor with just the door panel off,
Interesting idea...Thanks, I'll give that a try! Fortunately, other than some hyperflash on the right signal (which i may have to throw a resistor on) that really has been my only mystery electrical issue so far after 2 years of ownership...well the EL door sills...but those were doomed to fail. :D
Cheers!
@@robertmwinkelmann lol..knock on wood mine are still working . I know I just doomed myself by saying that
@@robertmwinkelmann I just fixed the door lock actuator yesterday. There are couple places to check. 1. I greased the round rubber boot at the top of the door lock pin (where you can manually push down on the pin to lock the door). When the motor is weak, the plastic door lock pin cannot push through the round rubber boot due to friction. 2. Grease the lock mechanism and get rid of rust. this will reduce rust. 3. replace door lock actuator. www.ebay.com/itm/New-Car-Auto-Universal-SMALL-MICRO-DOOR-LOCK-Actuator-Motor-2-Wire-12V-DLSM2/252594152272 for $10. It's exactly the same part but a fraction of the OEM. it just works.
Its a labor of looooove
You can also use a cheap thin tent peg to remove the pin from the break caliper. Goes in all the way and you can use the short end to tap-tighten from the other side without bashing the bleeder valves.
good info .
Thanks! I learnt a few tricks on the way to speed things up while servicing my the freeplay in my front axle bearings. Quick question: what size aloy wheels are you using? I'm asking because I want to upgrade my original break rotors to something like your w463's and may need to get an adapter kit for my calipers.
Great job. Love the details in your videos
I don't think I've seen a Mercedes rotor that didn't have the ridge on the edge, that just must be how the pads hit. Thanks for the video!
Agree ..The stock Mercedes metallic pads are quite aggressive , and tend to cause much more of a ridge than a ceramic pad will
Thanks as always, keep posting Gwagen vids
thanks for sharing. im doing my g500 brake sright now and this video is helping me so much.
hope it helps . using ceramic ?
@@fupabox i got textars. dont think they are ceramic, but they were only $40 for a pair. Not a bad price.
@@rdeleonnn I was wanting too get an idea of brake dusting from different pads. $40 seems a good deal
Great Job Bro. Very helpful.
Thank you for sharing you made so easy.. love it thanks again!!!
Thanks for watching!
Did you remove the cap from the break fluid fill to release fluid pressure when you squeezed the pistons?
sorry for the late reply...No I usually don't remove the cap . If you haven't topped up the fluid too much as the pads wear down , there should be plenty of room in the reservoir for the returning fluid and pressure . Some cars leaving the cap on can make pushing the pistons back a bit harder . So sometimes I remove the cap sometimes not .
Just curious: why non-chlorinated brake cleaner? Less toxic? Is there another reason?
I just got my rotors from steve at expedition imports.......