I am 70 years old, in the past you had to just figure everything out if you did not have someone like this mechanic near your ranch or farm to tell you. Now a person can find someone to help them, no matter where in the world you are, to get it correct the first time with needed tips and tricks. I love the internet ! Thank you sir for this video. There are some things I will do that I feel will make it a bit cleaner when done. But this has been a big help with important things like assuring you place the ABS wire in the correct location in the slotted area of the splash plate, etc. But that is "just me" :-)
Great Video except for one thing. When reinstalling the rotor, you failed to mention the torque value for the 4 rotor bolts. I've been trying to find that value for 3 days. I even bought the only repair manual available nearby and the value wasn't in there. Everything else was spot on and a big help. Great Job!
I didn't give the torque because I couldn't find the actual specs either. Later I found that they torque between 125ftlbs to 140ftlbs, depending on years I think. I say tighten them as tight as you can go without stripping them, plus you want that loctite on them as well
If you watch this video, you should be able to do it if you take your time and have patience. The only reason I could think to take it to a professional would be tools. It doesn't take a lot, but the bolts that hold the hub and I think caliper brakes are larger and under high torque, so using a 3/8 inch Walmart brand ratchets and sockets probably won't work. You will need half inch drive tools. However, Harbor Freight would be a good place to pick up what you need and you would still end up saving hundreds by not taking it to a shop.You can also contact me through my website if you need help. rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/
I do not have any vehicles coming in at the moment that I could record to show you. Contact me through my site: rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/ I can step you through the process and show you what tools you will need. It is just too much to try to do through this comment section. But I would be happy to help you. When you contact me, just remind me of this conversation and what vehicle you have.
It is similar, but no CV Shaft to stick through the hub bearing. So it will be a little less work, but the hub bearing mounting is pretty much the same.
all my books show 14x1.50 as the only size. That is for 2500 Suburban 1988 to 2004. 8 lugs 6.5 bolt pattern. If they are showing something else, maybe you have something different than what is in this video. If you need further help, contact me through my site to ensure I get your messages. rodsshop.org/contact/
@@RodsshopOrg 14 x1.5 it is thank you so much for your reply...and thanks for the informative video...i watched it twice and it helped alot with our replacement
@@nicolaslevine6462 I have a vast amount of books but I mainly use RepairSurge, it is an online manual that is always being kept up to date with complete wiring harness schematics and way more than books have in them . Check it out: rodsshop.org/get/online-auto-repair-manuals/
This is response to all your comments. Yes you can remove the shaft and bearing without disconnecting the tie-rod. But do you know why I did that? It answers all your other comments. With the tie-rod disconnected, I can maneuver the spindle around easier to get a good connection between my sockets and those 4 bolts that are hard to get free. If you had undone the tie-rod, you would have seen that.
You think it's hard with no rust! I live in the rust belt and the back bolts are 14mm now and wont come out. I've got the right socket and tools but idk how I'm gonna get them out
Spray penetrating oil on them and let them soak for an hour or so. You can also beat around them or on them with a hammer, that kind of vibrates the rust loose. Do not beat it so hard you smash the head of the bolt or bend things around it. You just want to vibrate it. Sometimes, running a propane torch on the metal will loosen it up as well. I find an impact gun works good for rusted bolts because it vibrates the rust loose as well.
I used red because for one, that was what was left on the threads from factory. However, I would have used it anyway if I had not seen it. Red is far better under high heat and that area gets really hot from the brakes. Also, these are bolts you take off all the time, nor do you want to ever come loose. If you think that the red means it makes it impossible to ever get the bolts back out, don't believe that non-sense. I have removed many bolts where red locktite was used and they come out with no problem. Been doing this for over 40 years, so if you have gotten your info off a forum, don't believe everything you read.
@@markbenyoun1476 You could use the blue if you do not have any red, should work as long as you have those bolts torqued very tight. Red is still the best in higher heat areas and for bolts you really don't want to ever back off like in a wheel axle area. Good question though, thanks
Most of these vehicles are not rust free as yours is them back bolts are a bear to get off I’m pretty sure mine is factory I had to use a 14 I think ther torque more like 165 maybe I’m wrong but watched a lot of these videos on it you took the tie rod off I guess is a good idea if you have a impact but if you got rust them 4 bolts can be a pig to get off I have to chisel the head of of one of the back bolt head don’t get me wrong you did a great video but I guess I didn’t have a impact gun so was harder you did a great job I wish mine had no rust like yours
The worst part of changing the bearing is them 4 stupid bolts behind the wheel and ther more like 165 into more torque than any other bolt on the wheel and be careful if you live in sa rust belt most are no as good as his ther a big bolt with a stupid head I think ther suppose to be 15 mil but I had to use a 14 or I will ruin the bolt if not strip it ther on ther real tight especially if was factory
Make your own videos since you are an expert. Such ungrateful people. Make a video to help others for free and all you can do is be negative and complain.
I am 70 years old, in the past you had to just figure everything out if you did not have someone like this mechanic near your ranch or farm to tell you.
Now a person can find someone to help them, no matter where in the world you are, to get it correct the first time with needed tips and tricks.
I love the internet !
Thank you sir for this video. There are some things I will do that I feel will make it a bit cleaner when done. But this has been a big help with important things like assuring you place the ABS wire in the correct location in the slotted area of the splash plate, etc. But that is "just me" :-)
Clear and concise ....no fluff...some of it is NOT in the book....excellent vid.
Thanks
Great step by step INSTRUCTIONAL video. TY
I'm doing this on my 97 Burb tomorrow morning. Thanks for the tips! I have a better idea of what to expect.
Excellent video. The tips were spot on and very helpful.
Great Video except for one thing. When reinstalling the rotor, you failed to mention the torque value for the 4 rotor bolts. I've been trying to find that value for 3 days. I even bought the only repair manual available nearby and the value wasn't in there. Everything else was spot on and a big help. Great Job!
I didn't give the torque because I couldn't find the actual specs either. Later I found that they torque between 125ftlbs to 140ftlbs, depending on years I think. I say tighten them as tight as you can go without stripping them, plus you want that loctite on them as well
Hello would someone with little mechanic experience be able to change the wheel hubs or should I seek professional?
If you watch this video, you should be able to do it if you take your time and have patience. The only reason I could think to take it to a professional would be tools. It doesn't take a lot, but the bolts that hold the hub and I think caliper brakes are larger and under high torque, so using a 3/8 inch Walmart brand ratchets and sockets probably won't work.
You will need half inch drive tools. However, Harbor Freight would be a good place to pick up what you need and you would still end up saving hundreds by not taking it to a shop.You can also contact me through my website if you need help.
rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/
Excellent video, thanks
thank you for this video i need to see how the truck i building how it goes together the brake lines
love the vids
Can you help with the rear wheel bearing video too, thanks
I do not have any vehicles coming in at the moment that I could record to show you. Contact me through my site:
rodsshop.org/contact-rodsshop/
I can step you through the process and show you what tools you will need. It is just too much to try to do through this comment section. But I would be happy to help you. When you contact me, just remind me of this conversation and what vehicle you have.
How different is this from a 2wd 2500?
It is similar, but no CV Shaft to stick through the hub bearing. So it will be a little less work, but the hub bearing mounting is pretty much the same.
If your Suburban is about the same year, here are the hub bearings for it. amzn.to/3ODRLcD
Very different...Lol
Do you know that the wheel stud size is on these suburbans? The parts stores in my area show two different sizes.
all my books show 14x1.50 as the only size. That is for 2500 Suburban 1988 to 2004. 8 lugs 6.5 bolt pattern. If they are showing something else, maybe you have something different than what is in this video. If you need further help, contact me through my site to ensure I get your messages. rodsshop.org/contact/
@@RodsshopOrg 14 x1.5 it is thank you so much for your reply...and thanks for the informative video...i watched it twice and it helped alot with our replacement
@@jeffdixon9025 Glad I could help
@@RodsshopOrg what books do you have for this im using a general chiltons for the tbi to vortec and not really helpfull
@@nicolaslevine6462 I have a vast amount of books but I mainly use RepairSurge, it is an online manual that is always being kept up to date with complete wiring harness schematics and way more than books have in them . Check it out: rodsshop.org/get/online-auto-repair-manuals/
You can get all 4 off with out taking your tire rod off no diff you might get a few inches I just did my 4 wheel drive dually
This is response to all your comments. Yes you can remove the shaft and bearing without disconnecting the tie-rod. But do you know why I did that? It answers all your other comments. With the tie-rod disconnected, I can maneuver the spindle around easier to get a good connection between my sockets and those 4 bolts that are hard to get free. If you had undone the tie-rod, you would have seen that.
You think it's hard with no rust! I live in the rust belt and the back bolts are 14mm now and wont come out. I've got the right socket and tools but idk how I'm gonna get them out
Spray penetrating oil on them and let them soak for an hour or so. You can also beat around them or on them with a hammer, that kind of vibrates the rust loose. Do not beat it so hard you smash the head of the bolt or bend things around it. You just want to vibrate it. Sometimes, running a propane torch on the metal will loosen it up as well. I find an impact gun works good for rusted bolts because it vibrates the rust loose as well.
Why would you use red lock tight?
I used red because for one, that was what was left on the threads from factory. However, I would have used it anyway if I had not seen it. Red is far better under high heat and that area gets really hot from the brakes. Also, these are bolts you take off all the time, nor do you want to ever come loose.
If you think that the red means it makes it impossible to ever get the bolts back out, don't believe that non-sense. I have removed many bolts where red locktite was used and they come out with no problem. Been doing this for over 40 years, so if you have gotten your info off a forum, don't believe everything you read.
@@RodsshopOrg I see.
@@markbenyoun1476 You could use the blue if you do not have any red, should work as long as you have those bolts torqued very tight. Red is still the best in higher heat areas and for bolts you really don't want to ever back off like in a wheel axle area. Good question though, thanks
Most of these vehicles are not rust free as yours is them back bolts are a bear to get off I’m pretty sure mine is factory I had to use a 14 I think ther torque more like 165 maybe I’m wrong but watched a lot of these videos on it you took the tie rod off I guess is a good idea if you have a impact but if you got rust them 4 bolts can be a pig to get off I have to chisel the head of of one of the back bolt head don’t get me wrong you did a great video but I guess I didn’t have a impact gun so was harder you did a great job I wish mine had no rust like yours
The worst part of changing the bearing is them 4 stupid bolts behind the wheel and ther more like 165 into more torque than any other bolt on the wheel and be careful if you live in sa rust belt most are no as good as his ther a big bolt with a stupid head I think ther suppose to be 15 mil but I had to use a 14 or I will ruin the bolt if not strip it ther on ther real tight especially if was factory
Tripod to hold the camera.
Make your own videos since you are an expert. Such ungrateful people. Make a video to help others for free and all you can do is be negative and complain.
All the bouncing with the camera is making me ill