Chevy Silverado K2500 Front Hub Bearing Replacement
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- Опубліковано 21 лис 2015
- Here are the parts and tools I used to get this job done-(check fitment guide)
Hub Bearing Assembly I recommend-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...
Mapp Oxygen gas torch kit used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
If you have it this far apart it would be a good idea to replace the rotor also-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003...
You may just want to blast the wheel studs through and replace them-(pack of 10)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Bolt extractor Kit I have had the best luck with-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007...
Nickel Anti-Seize I used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
3/8" drive Milwaukee Impact I used for the whole job:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
Wheel Stud Installer I used-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
A new axle nut is a good idea-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002...
Medium strength Loctite-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Best Rust penetrant I have found-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B...
Strong Brake cleaner I use-
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...
Torque specs vary year to year but the ones listed during the video are a good general guide overall.
BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
Website:
www.bsgautomotive.com
Facebook:
/ bsgautomotive
Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “BSG Automotive”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. BSG Automotive shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by BSG Automotive and therefore, BSG Automotive does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge BSG Automotive or anyone affiliated with BSG Automotive, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Авто та транспорт
Great video for instruction. I would personally recommend that you replace the studs and lug nuts. My reasoning is that unless you are familiar with how many times the wheels have been off and on it is quite possible that people have overtightened the lug nuts. I have had broken studs due to an inexperienced tire installer put about 170 ft lbs on it. It sheared within about a week. Fortunately the owner replaced all the studs and lug nuts no charge, and the apprentice learned a good lesson.
Instead of making u loco, this channel will make u very smart!! Thank u Brian
+Bill Rimmer Thanks, I try.
Hey man, thank you for your videos. They're extremely informative and I also appreciate the patience you demonstrate during these projects.
+bondspy No problem thanks, that patience comes from many many years of working on Fords at the dealer.
I have never done this type of hub assembly before. This video helped me step by step from beginning to end. I learned so much during this video. I will definitely be following. Thank you!
I'm in the process of doing this on my 95 2500 Suburban and being a New York truck in encountering the very same rust issues. What a PITA! Great video showing how difficult this can be especially rust belt trucks that get drown in salt and calcium brine. Great job!
I have the same truck
Excellent video. Thanks for the insight. Especially using the stud installer. I am in the process of reinstalling the knuckles on my 98 K2500 as part of a brake job ( all seized, had to use a 5 ton puller to get pass side apart ) so was getting overwhelmed. Your video really helped get me closer to the finish line. Thanks!
Gotta tackle this job next week. I feel better now. Time consuming but I can do it. Your video was very informative and best of all was the camera was well placed through the whole repair. Thanks in 2024 for creating this video. 👍
You give awesome explanations. I might have to re see this video. thank you again.
Thank you! I have a 97 duly k3500 and I have to change the ball joints and I referenced to your video the entire time. I'm new with auto motive so this helped.
Great video! Very very detailed! And PROFESSIONAL
Thank you very much for this video! I am going to be doing the front brakes and wheel bearings on my 2000 k3500. Same set up as you have. I am dreading it a bit. I am buying all new hardware : bearing mounting bolts, wheels studs, rotor backing plate, moog wheel bearings, and the rotors and brake pads. This is going to be a big job. Going to test out my new big bad dewalt 20v impact on those wheel bearing mounting bolts. I hope they snap off or come free.
I opted for new wheel studs just so that I only have to put new ones in, which will be easy with a press.
I will be anti sizeing what I can I (not wheel studs of course!) So that the next time around this will be easier. I'll probably start soaking down the mounting bolts for the wheel bearing a few weeks ahead of time.
I don't plan to take the knuckle/spindle off though, it still appears to be doable.
Some older Hondas have these 'captive' rotors too. Insane amount of labor just to replace/machine rotors. Good vid!
Crazy thanks for the heads up
Thank you for this video! Image at 26:13 was invaluable as I couldn't remember exactly how to put my dust shield back on.
That is a crazy design, bravo to the engineer for making the job another PIA! Happy Turkey Day to you, enjoy. Thank you for all the videos Brian
+Ozzstar A wild design for sure I hope I never see anything like this for a long time.
+BSG Auto I replaced the upper and lower ball joints (both sides) and inner/outer tie rod ends on an 2004 E-250 cargo van today. For being heavy duty it "normal" design easily removing the rotor/bearings to get the spindle out compared to the Chevy in this video, that design is just stupid! Is there a site I can visit that can tell me the labor time for the repair I did today? I couldn't find your email addy to ask you, thanks Brian!
+Ozzstar I use Alldata for labor times. Looking it up I would say 6hrs.
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Great job. This helped out a lot.
Very informative thank you more videos like this should be put out
I like how you said before you forget about the backing plate...I just did a bearing on my 2002 f250 and I forgot about it...took back apart and put it on...went to.put the rotor on and found it had installed it backwards...needless to say I am now a master at removing and installing a bearing hub...lol
+Gary Ferguson Jr I bet!
Thanks for sharing, how long did the job take to do.
your vid was very helpfull, I have this job to do
What a pain that was. I own a Chevy one ton and I'm not looking forward to when I have to do this job. Thanks for the video, nice explanation of the steps. Subscribed.
+wyattoneable Nice Thanks!
i just did them on my k3500. yes its involved but really not bad.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
What grease do you use at 25:51 and 28:16? I guessing some kind of wheel bearing grease, LMX red grease, or multipurpose grease, but there are so many different bases. What base do you recommend?
can rotor be replaced alone? or entire hub assembly with lugs
both are available as parts
Very well done, Brian. Glad they don't build em like that anymore. I find the price of G.M. Parts in general is insane.
+wysetech2000 Yes especially on these older vehicle the process are outrageous.
Does this also apply to the C2500 (RWD) trucks?
I have a 94 K2500 and I know at some point the passenger side is going to need to be done because when I bought the truck the driver's side had just been replaced. I want to be able to do most of the repairs myself but I'm not sure if I have the experience for this job yet. Very informative video great work!
K2500 is allot easier then the 1 ton. On the 6 lug set up.. you pull the rotors and brake calipers out of the way. Unbolt and remove the drive shafts. You'll have access to the hub bolts then. Plan on drilling/grinding the heads off. Then hammer the hub out. No need to separate the front end.
@@hawkdsl : Your advice only applies to the "light duty" 3/4 ton truck, that has the 6-lug hub setup. On the heavy-duty 3/4 tons, like what is shown in this video, you do what is shown here.
Difference being, if you will only be replacing the wheel bearing/hub assy, and/or brake rotor, you don't have to remove the entire knuckle assy.
If you need to install new upper and lower ball-joints, as he did in this video, then you remove the entire knuckle assy as well.
Thank you for mentioning the torque specs.
Just did this to my 98 k2500. Had to use the milling machine to get two of the hub bolt out.. rust demon
Best real life video, about this job, out there. Been trying to get those bolts out without taking off the knuckle. Looks like I'll have to use heat on mine, but it's so close to the CV boot, not sure it's worth the risk.
Whats your opinion on after market hubs, I've seen them for $110 for a pair, big difference from $400 ea
Lol, also, cant believe you didn't replace the rotor and pads while you were there, or at least have the rotor turned, it looked pretty nasty, (maybe it was just the video)
Still, it's a great video, thanks
+Big Burb I would use Moog or better I link to in the video description. This was my friends truck so the pads and rotors were his decision. If it was mine the pads, rotors calipers and hubs would have been changed together.
What size socket is for that nut?
I have a question. When you removed the bearing assembly from the knuckle you mention that it is a good idea to replace the knuckle grease seal. Do you have a part# that you recommend for that truck in the video? Also how do you recommend removing the old one from the knuckle and putting the new one in? Thank you!!
+James Barrette I am sure you already completed this repair but I will answer anyway. I don't have the part number as it varies for the different years but any quality seal from the parts store will be sufficient since it mainly just keeps the dirt out. The old one you just knock it out where as going back in you are going to want to seat it evenly with a driver about that size.
i just did my k3500.and ur video has some good info but did u remove the knuckle for shooting the video?because its really not necessary unless ur hub is completely frozen in the knuckle frm rust.also why didn't u turn the rotors?and replace the other hub?replacement of both hubs is a good idea since when one goes bad the other is soon to follow.also doing the torque is best with the knuckle assembly on the truck and not on the ground as u showed..ur friend must be superman, i have had good luck with chain store hubs.i did both axles, hubs,rotors and pads and while it was a pita i did it in my driveway.
+o.g.nigga 73 oh yeah it definitely was seized on we had to torch and extract two bolts
It is possible to do this job without removing the knuckle. If the 4 bolts holding the bearing in can be removed without a problem, a few strikes to the rear of the rotor will separate the bearing from the knuckle.
Sure can that's the idea but man these were so seized in there I didn't want to fight the hub bolts like the owner did on the other side for hours. Also this was part of a bigger job where I was replacing ball joints.
I was going to say I've done these without removal of the knuckle as well but was watching again to see if there was a better way to seperate the bearing as usually I am doing brakes at the same time and hammer on the rotor to separate them after the 4 bolts are out. This time I was just doing a bearing hammering the bolts worked great and I had already bought replacement bolts so no worries about a damaged bolt from the hammering.
Correct me.if im wrong but i just had rotors,pads and calipers and didnt take off the tire rods and all that other stuff.
Am i missing something.
Same here, the 4 inner bolts can be removed from back without removing all stuff
Where did you get the hub to steering knuckle bolts from?
Dealership. If you would have watched the video all the way through, you would have known that. Additionally, a cheaper way to get the same special hardened cap screws (bolts) would be to take them to a fastener supply company such as Fastenal, or a place called Hardware and Fastener Solutions (HFS), and have them match them up. As I recall, the automotive aftermarket company, Dorman, offers replacement hub-to-knuckle bolts as well. You will need (4) bolts for each side.
Do you have patreon?
Will adding heat to the bolts possibly warp the rotor?
Kevin Standard : No, heat will not warp the rotor.
Heat can easily damage the front driveshaft outboard CV boot, and also the hub/wheel bearing seals if you aren't extremely careful.
What would it cost to have a dealership do this on both front hubs?
A dealer with OEM parts would be maybe $1200 since they will have a high labor rate
"Clunk"... the sound you heard was my jaw hitting the floor.
+MyassesDragon yeah these bearing assemblies alone are almost $400 each at the dealer.
Is it possible to upgrade this set to the the opposite you were explaining in the beginning. To the hub and bearing behind the rotor.
That jack stand seems a bit small for this vehicle. Good job though.
great design by GM tho
Yeah an engineering marvel 🙄
Old cotter pin sheared and stuck in ball joint stud
Nevermind, got it
a huge pain in the ass
Look like a pain :\ lol
+Chris Rippy Oh it was.