Diagnosing and fixing a Sony 13" TV
![Adrian's Digital Basement ][](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_k7CrQRe71qN6c0Ua7A1P_I8KkxjqLa70u0zYeCvdvnKw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 січ 2025
- Follow-up video to the Sony KV-1221R video. In the first video I found it had a fault where I could not turn it on from the remote control as it would turn on, and immediately back off again. Let's figure out what's going on and fix it.
-- Video Links
Original video on the KV-1221R:
• This portable Sony TV ...
Support the channel on Patreon:
/ adriansdigitalbasement
Adrian's Digital Basement (Main Channel)
/ @adriansdigitalbasement
-- Tools
Deoxit D5:
amzn.to/2VvOKy1
store.caig.com/...
O-Ring Pick Set: (I use these to lift chips off boards)
amzn.to/3a9x54J
Elenco Electronics LP-560 Logic Probe:
amzn.to/2VrT5lW
Hakko FR301 Desoldering Iron:
amzn.to/2ye6xC0
Rigol DS1054Z Four Channel Oscilloscope:
www.rigolna.co...
Head Worn Magnifying Goggles / Dual Lens Flip-In Head Magnifier:
amzn.to/3adRbuy
TL866II Plus Chip Tester and EPROM programmer: (The MiniPro)
amzn.to/2wG4tlP
www.aliexpress...
TS100 Soldering Iron:
amzn.to/2K36dJ5
www.ebay.com/i...
EEVBlog 121GW Multimeter:
www.eevblog.co...
DSLogic Basic Logic Analyzer:
amzn.to/2RDSDQw
www.ebay.com/i...
Magnetic Screw Holder:
amzn.to/3b8LOhG
www.harborfrei...
Universal ZIP sockets: (clones, used on my ZIF-64 test machine)
www.ebay.com/i...
RetroTink 2X Upconverter: (to hook up something like a C64 to HDMI)
www.retrotink.com/
Plato (Clone) Side Cutters: (order five)
www.ebay.com/i...
Heat Sinks:
www.aliexpress...
Little squeezy bottles: (available elsewhere too)
amzn.to/3b8LOOI
--- Links
My GitHub repository:
github.com/mis...
Commodore Computer Club / Vancouver, WA - Portland, OR - PDX Commodore Users Group
www.commodorec...
--- Instructional videos
My video on damage-free chip removal:
• How to remove chips wi...
--- Music
Intro music and other tracks by:
Nathan Divino
@itsnathandivino
Am I the only one that prefer those "second channel" video more than the mail calls on the main channel? This is the true Andrian Digitial Basement fixing stuff, just like we liked.
As rare as it happens, don’t you just love when one quick fix does the job?
As soon as you described the fault, I immediately thought bad capacitor, Keep up the good work Adrian! 👍🏻
yep i have had a few ham radios do the same thing turns out to just be a dumb cap..
For Sure and when dealing with a older Sony Always Cheap capacitors and solder joints first .
Absolutely! Fixed a similar issue on an air conditioner unit the other day and it was a big leaky cap as well.
You didn't need to use the heatgun on the heatshrink, that power resistor would have taken care of it.
That's a good one - insert clapping here -.
oh no, don't use the heat gun... you'll reduce the life of the new capacitor. 😊
@@fumthings I know that's sarcasm, but in case anyone's wondering, heat shrink will conform at a pretty low temp. I usually set my hot air station at about 150c for heat shrinking. That causes it to shrink pretty much instantly, and you barely warm up the stuff around it.
My Radio and Tv business that I own We use to sell Sony and we were a authorized service center I have worked on hundreds of Sony products over the years and Electrolytic capacitors are one the main issues and I am lucky to have a lot of Factory Sony Service manuals .One my Current projects is a Sony 27inch XBR TV and a 1970s Sony portable Radio .
Really enjoying this 2nd channel.
That reminds me of a switch mode power supply I had on my bench a while ago. Fixed 24V output, it had been running 24/7for 20, maybe even close to 30 years. After it was turned off for a while to change things in the mains wiring of the cabinet it didn't turn on anymore. A friend suggested to heat some caps on the board, so I used my heat gun (which looks strikingly similar to the one Adrian uses here), and sure enough after they reached some temperature, the power supply came on. After changing out 3 caps, I took them to work where we have a very good LCR meter... one that was supposed to be 150µF showed "out of range" on a meter that goes down to very low picofarads. That cap literally turned into a resistor, as it had more than 300 ohms ESR. Sometimes there is just no other way to make things work again, even if you are not a recapper. ;-)
Hey Adrian nice fix. The capacitors from the 80's and 90s where really bad quality... Oh you forgot to show if the remote worked.
I am currently fixing a older Sony 27in Tv and one the power supply capacitors spilled it's guts out !!
I dunno -- the 80s and 90s caps are generally pretty good. On decent electronics, anyway. I *am* a re-capper, and so I pretty much re-cap any PSU older than 10 years that comes within a meter of my bench. But, I recognize that re-capping quality 80s and 90s equipment is pretty much just preventative maintenance, not usually a necessary fix.
If there is a relay nearby, that's the timer cap for power on/off. I saved so many sony's that way. That and the Horizontal transformer.
BTW thanks for the vids. It's making me want to start a repair channel.
It is always good to get tips on what could be broken.
Rocky Horror Picture Show T-Shirt! Nice! One of my old time favourites!
I'd be curious to see the waveform that your LCR Meter puts out. Does it send only positive polarity voltages to a polarized electrolytic. i.e. is there a DC offset?
Nice job! I'd have still replaced all the caps. Even though they tested good, they are nearly 40 years old and would most certainly be good preventive maintenance.
"I'm never gonna give you up...". Great vid. Background vid also good!
I'm a big fan of your diagnostic abilities, but I think this time you really hit a home run.
Again, that TV is adorable!
Great Video Adrian 👍. We have now all learned the dangers of having too much D.
"i'm not a recapper" shots fired
🤣
Hi Adrian, love the second channel!
Could you maybe link to your main channel in the "channels" section here? (hope that make sense)
It would make it easier for people to switch back and forth between the two.
How do i adjust the focus and v side with out the tool/stick? what can i use? thanks
I'm curious, could you have put the new capacitor on the back of the board as a means to better isolate it from the heat source? (I'm not a fix-it guy at all, so I'm asking out of genuine curiosity. I've seen on some of your videos while doing bodges you sometimes chase things through VIAs or by patching onto the underside of a through hole component to bridge a broken trace or even mount a component on the opposite side of the board - and just wondered if that underside trick could have been used (by the manufacturer) to better protect that capacitor from damage?)
Wasn't the Rubycon caps the ones that had tons of issues back during the days of the "capacitor plague"? I've always heard good things about Nichicon caps, so I'd probably go with those. But maybe that's all old news and they are completely different now. Also impressive that you diagnosed it just through sheer knowledge and investigation without needing the schematics.
Nichicon is such a famous capacitor brand now that it's actually difficult to not get fake ones unless you go to a real industrial supplier (like DigiKey). That's also the case with almost any capacitor sold explicitly as "Japanese". I'd rather get the 5th-best capacitor out of China than a fake Japanese one. It's the same story with Mabuchi DC motors, or Omron relays, the name is too famous to trust to a reseller!
Nichicon and Rubycon are both great brands. There were also lots and lots of failed Nichi and Ruby caps out there during the plague. I don't know that anyone was totally immune. Whether those were convincing fakes or the fallout of that incident just hit everyone, I don't know for 100% certain.
My line of thought is any capacitor on main power supply would be suspect. After a voltage regulator not so much unless I recognize and old power supply design like a Zener regulated power supply with a swamping resistor. Good catch there Adrian.
8 Bit dance party with every CRT video please.
Nice job Adrian! Thanks for sharing with us!💖👌👍😎JP
Sometimes you still have to recap a cap - even when you're not recapper... 😉
Good call on the capacitor being shot!
what happens to porta vision color tv? I want to see you wash to get it nice
They aren't all home runs by Sony! :) Meade made a telescope computer controller in the mid-90s which had a very special ribbon cable that interfaced to the the membrane keyboard of the handbox. When this ribbon cable was folded up after mating the two halves of the handbox, it came into direct contact with a tantalum capacitor that was underrated and unreliable. It would POP, and burn a perfectly circular hole in the cable. No more handbox! Just a design flaw that would have been hard to anticipate.
I have a zenith tv that was manufactured in 1997 and it started with the same issue.
I would press the on button and would just do a split second flash on the screen, I would have to keep the on button pressed and eventually the tv would turn on until one day it just completely died. Do you think it's the same issue? Help please I love my old tv.
Thanks for the great video.
Is it possible or recommended to do a RGB mod on this tv? Thanks
My late model 9" Trinitron needs recapped due to geometry issues. I also need to find a remote control.
He is Rickrolling us at 0:30, 7:00, 7:16, 7:49, 8:10, and 8:30
My uncle thought me that the cap would last longer when you put those caps near the power resistor the other side of the board if there's space available to really make sure it's not going to be baked
My thoughts exactly.
I thought so, too. But there may not be much room between that board and the case. (Although the new cap is small.) Also -- single-sided PCB. :-) Still doable though.
Sony engineer: "this electrolytic should be snug with its own personal heater nearby."
So true !
Hi, do you have experience on Sony pvm repairs? I have a Sony Pvm-20M4E that blows components on the psu when I tried powering it up. Replaced the components and same problem. I'm not good at reading schematics. Hoping to get some help here...
If I have something open and I have some time, I recap anyway for preventative maintenance. I've seen way too many electronics destroyed by leaky caps, even if the caps themselves read OK.
my current Sony 27inch XBR and Sony portable radio are getting a Full recap of all the electrolytic capacitors they are cheap and the new 105 degree Nichicons are Awesome!
I've got a line of TVs and PC monitors waiting to be fully re-capped, just for good measure. But ... cheap? Hm. :-) Then how come every time I place a parts order to re-cap a PSU, I end up spending almost exactly $100 on parts? haha
Still worth it.
"Testing in circuit is not always accurate"
Nope, but it definitely gives you a general idea of things that may warrant further investigation.
This is a "sometimes" rule that may or may not work. "60% of the time it works every time."
I just find testing caps in circuit to be unreliable enough that I always desolder and lift one of the legs to test them. Electrolytics are fickle beasties.
@@Darxide23 I poorly phrased it. I was intending to agree with him that nope, they aren't accurate. However, it is fairly reliable for finding areas that deserve further scrutiny.
Here's key bit of know-how for testing caps in-circuit: If the cap is directly connected to a rectifier, then it needs to be removed for testing. Otherwise, testing in-circuit you should get at or very near the cap specs. If not near spec, the cap is likely bad or iffy and warrants replacement..
@@lexluthermiester thank you! this is great advice
I bet that capacitor is there to alleviate the issues created by contact bounce within the relay. It's been a really long time since college, but it's been stuck in my head how annoyingly obvious I always felt that physical quirk of relays was... once you know about it. lol
Aww, the dead parts bin didn't make an appearance. 🥺
I love working on old electronics because everything in the board is labeled
7:59 why the hell didnt u put this capacitor at the back of this circuit ? :D
probably because there's not a lot of space between the board and the back cover of the tv
i would have put it on the back side too if there is room for it but that cap will still last 20 years where it is.
@@Mr_Meowingtons why you say something like that? The thing was USED a lot back in the day, nobody uses it that much today, it is old. So you cannot compare the useage of the item.
I have very little luck measuring caps in circuit. Maybe the de5000 would be better if you can tune the frequency but I can't get that in the uk unless I import it. Anyone know what's a good reasonably priced one? I have a good all round meter but the capacitance range for above 1uf is unstable or reads out of range, mf range doesnt work. I had better luck with a cheap component tester reads pretty well but of course the cap may behave differently at different voltages and frequencies.
if it fits a good ida is to put the cap on the back side away from it but that cap will still last 20 years where it is..
i have had a few ham radio do the same thing all because of a dumb cap.
What if you wrapped the new one with aluminum foil, shiny-side out, to prevent it from being baked?
potential short issue. I'd have placed the cap on the back of the board.
Interesting, I had this TV with the same problem. Must have been a known issue, given the placement of that capacitor. Too bad I got rid of it 20+ years ago, oh well.
For Sure .
These test leads you use for the LCR meter are not shielded and have no ground. So less accurate readings. I modded my DE-5000 with shielded cable and kelvin clips. Works more accurate.😉
Hello, I have the same TV, but it has a power problem, the previous owner connected it without a transformer, and it stopped turning on, everything is in perfect condition except for that, I want to bring this relic to life again, I hope you can help me.
Capacitors will be the bane of all electronics, well, the ones that didn't get sent to landfill at least... :P
I thought you would show the remote power on issue being solved, oh well that's what you expect from Adrian's Digital Basement II. I bet the original Adrian would have shown the remote working.
We want candy, Mr Black! Where’s the candy? XDDDD
Honestly, do a full candy episode. We will watch. ;)
@Duke Hugh Johnson This is his whatever he wants to do channel.
@Duke Hugh Johnson You may be confusing this channel with the main channel maybe?
@@bruwin The funny thing is: when he created the second channel, he explicitly said he was going to move the candy content from the main channel to the second channel. So to read people saying “this is a tech channel” in the second channel is kind of ironic. And absolutely, he can do whatever he wants with both channels. :D
Dang that frame is more baked than Seth Rogan on 4/20!
Recapping is not a bad idea when devices are this old. Also I'd have placed that cap on the opposite side if the board, if room allowed to make sure it does not get cooked again.
"LCR meter". Is that different from an LGR meter?
Stupid question
Why didn't you solder the new capacitor onto the rear of the board.!?
This would reduce the risk of it cooking again.!🤔🤔👍
Horrible leads for ESR or inductance btw. Use kelvin clips or the optional tweezers for that model LCR meter.
Ah, for 100Hz (or 1kHz for that matter), it hardly matters.
Put the cap on the back of the board, so that its not baked again.
doesn't look like much room because of the case. he folded it further back on the inside, probably enough...
"No evidence of baking" is the most common appearance of a bad cap. They just dry out, especially when they are getting heated up like that.
more common than leaking electrolytic fluid? not in my experience
@@Walczyk I can say for sure that most dead caps I've pulled showed no obvious signs of leakage, and I've pulled thousands of them.
Why have a fried leaky cap when you can have it *BAKED!*
Keyword: "baked."
Testing in circuit is NEVER accurate. Not just sometimes inaccurate.
miuop
i never trust in circuit values, they change when i take em out
If the values are totally whack, it gives you an idea that the component in question is suspect and deserves further scrutiny.
does it happen that a capacitor looks okay because of nearby components? I can't trust it so I use an ESR tester, and even remove SMD capacitors just to measure them (generally recap anyway). Many leakage testers aren't sensitive enough either, from what Mr. Carlson says.
@@Walczyk If it does, I've never seen it. Again, I don't take the result as gospel. If the results don't look even close though, it tells me something is amiss in that component or in its nearby neighbors in the circuit.
This isd a bit uniqe, the meters all seem to be coming out of Japan instead of China like most things.
I don’t suppose you’ve had any problems with color display on this tv, have you? I have the same model and it shows no blue, and I’m not entirely sure what to do with that 🥲