Professional live audio mixer here... DeoxIT does make a fader specific cleaner, Which is also better for potentiometers than standard D5. It's called DeoxIT Fader F5. It adds a little bit of a lubricant to the fader to keep them gliding smooth. With D5 you're just cleaning off the oxidization, but it can also strip off any internal lubricant that was in place. Lubricants used in these devices need to be non-conductive. Fader F5 is what I use in boards I am doing maintenance on.
I am in the UK. About thirty years ago my late father bought a second hand Sony TV - a 20 inch one - model KV-2060UB. It weighed a lot, but was built like a tank. That level of build quality is lost to the cheap electronics available today
My parents had a VCR that used a combination of a small selector switches and fine tuner pots to choose channel presets. Sometimes the channels would slightly shift when the lid was closed, so choosing where the signal was best was through a process of guessing the offset.
That brings back memories. Those buttons with the rubber domes inside would probably have failed by the mid-to-late 90s - the ones I had certainly did. I had an SL-C5UB Betamax video recorder that I fitted replacement buttons to, and a KV-2212UB2 TV where I pulled out the top halves of the buttons, so I could select channels by poking a screwdriver onto the contact pads. The TV's long gone, but I still have the SL-C5 (in fact I have a load of them, plus various other models). Those replacement buttons are probably also dead by now!
Heh yeah! You know those switches well! I took one apart and exactly. There is a metal switch underneath a rubber dome which is completely perished. So not all that's pushing on the contact is a bad dome. Funny as I have more Sony TVs coming up (of similar age) and only this one has the perished buttons. So not sure why!
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Oh wow, your reply has just stirred up the vaguest of memories that I had some other very similar Sony TV and the buttons were fine on that one - it was something like a KV-2215UB. It was over twenty years ago!
I had this tv. In 1989 I finally got a vcr with a IR remote! I set channel 3 as the first channel and plugged the tv into the vcr so I could use the remote to turn on everything. It felt like the lap of luxury in my teenage bedroom.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I had the tv from 1984 till 2018. I ended up donating it to the Frisco video game museum. I had it repaired in 2004 for the same problem you fixed on the video. It ran perfect and worked like a champ for almost 30 years. As far as I know it has a nes attached to it at the museum still .
I am a big fan of your videos. I love old computers and CRTs so this is all right up my alley. I know for testing purposes that only using the test pattern generator makes sense, but I wish you would show some decent quality video playback from a movie or something to show off how well the repair went. For instance a series of movie clips that are short enough or through fair use that you don’t get in trouble. Or just something you wouldn’t have a rights issue with like public domain. Seeing old computers hooked up is always fun too. They don’t have to be long segments I would just like to really see these old sets in action other than the bar patterns. It is a small nitpick. Keep up the good work!
I had a SONY TV Much like that I probably still have the owners manual someplace, but it had the plate glass front covering the Tube. For whatever reason it seemed to make the picture better when it was in place than when it was taken off. Was it polarized? No clue, but when it was on the picture looked real sharp and crisp for 640x480. If I still had it the picture probably looks horrible but for 1987 it was great little TV, it also had the matching slick little membrane remote.
@IMRROcom That TV you mention sounds like the old XBR series that first came around in 1984 or so. It was silver casing with a glass bezel that was held in place with chromed latches or screws. That set was a big deal back then it had a triple comb filter which was rare in any set back then and very expensive to make.
@@watershed44 I found an old picture, the TV actually looks like it is a JVC from around 1987/1988. I purchased it new when I lived in Diego Garcia B.I.O.T. with a Hitachi VT-145? Stereo VCR (2 weeks pay). This VCR had the best way to program recordings on the remote. You sit at the table during breakfast looking at the TV guide for the week. Punch the show times into the LCD built into the remote and aim it at the VCR when stepping out the door it will transfer the program to the VCR no need to turn any thing on to program the VCR. Later when VCRs came out with "on screen programing" Those felt like a step back as I had to turn everything on and sit in front of the TV to program the VCR. The little TV sat perfectly on top of my stacked Stereo Cabinet with matching glass door on the front. The TV is a silver Box from the front, it had nothing extra around the tube. It has a flip down panel on the front and two handles on the side to pick it up. I must of liked the TV so much that I have a larger version of it around 15" or 19" that I purchased in 1989 when I lived in Hawaii from looking at an old photo. I had it hooked up to my C64 commodore computer. I also have my grandparents late 60's counsel TV with recorded player and radio built in. it still is like brand new with the paper cover over the recorded player. it is the $929.95 25" TV with the sliding doors in the center of the "1966_SearsChristmas_Page344" ad that can be found in google search. Funny when something cost half the price of a new car and looks very nice that people take care of it. We use it as an table behind the sofa now. Most people have no clue that it is a TV and just think it is a real nice table. O 'well like the 'old' electronics as I was growing up with them at that time.
The antenna is a replacement antenna, the orange knob on the end is a dead giveaway. Also, the base of the antenna is double the diameter of the antenna itself, indicating that whoever replaced it replaced it with a smaller (diameter) antenna than the original.
Actually Sony OEM antennas from around that time had red tips: i0.wp.com/potsandpansbyccg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/television-sony-en-casa-de-mis-padres.jpg?fit=1000%2C899&ssl=1 The 1978 19" Sony Trinitron we had when I was a kid had red tips just like this one.
Yeah I agree -- in the later 70s and into the 80s and even into the 90s, no one matched Sony for CRT TVs. The picture and build quality is just amazing on them.
You have to be careful - if the TV has a hot chassis, you absolutely cannot add a composite/svideo/rgb input withou adding an isolation transformer first
I think you can put composite video and audio directly to the video audio circuits, as long as the audio video comes from a cable converter or vcr etc.
I was watching Ghostbusters (1983) the other day, and I think this TV may also feature in that movie as well, or at least one very similar looking to it.
The Poltergeist is in it :D my oldest TV is from 1956(Philips) and the newes CRT TV is from 1973 a Philips and 1973 a Grundig THank you for that great Video.
As I remember my mother had one of those small sony TV's in her kitchen. That's right the correct thing to do was spit in the back and whomp it one until it came on lol
Yeah it's funny they had it labelled with a term I hadn't seen. Most TVs use bias as the label including slightly newer Sony's. It controls the voltage bias on the cathode drive -- how close to ground it is.
I have two KV 4000 (where the design of yours has its offspring, with actual metal instead of golden paint), and both of them have broken push buttons as well. Seems like the whole line was affected by cheap push switches.
It's unfortunate about the switches. I hope you find a fix for them. Would also be neat with a composite or RBG input mod, but it might not be trivial, I have no idea.
It always struck me as weird that something like Belling-Lee connectors or type F connectors weren't used and built into TVs in North America, and instead those odd twin lead connectors seem to have been everywhere.
The F connector was found starting in the late 70s. Was kind of odd this little set didn't have it... But adapters are easy enough to use. Twin lead was just used here forever for radio and TV. Took a little while to switch to F. You have to realize that TV was popular and common here before other places in the world, so the old connection standard was so prevalent. I lived in a early 1950s apartment building that had twin lead hookups in every room from when it was built. Even then they were thinking about TV reception which in that part of LA was not good without a roof antenna.
I thought about that too! I want to see him get into the spaghetti electronics in old shortwave radios! The days before modern contraptions like circuit boards!
hehe yeah, I think you're not alone in feeling that. Me personally I don't mind. Perhaps once day I can find compatible switches and restore the functionality -- although to what end, this TV will never need anything but channel 3 I guess.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Sure, but it has buttons, and buttons are meant to be pushed! :) And all those light bulbs that will never lite up - what a tragedy!
Adrian invokes the most retro of TV repair methods from the 20th cen. He bangs it, and it helps. As sure sign he's a 20th cen man working on a 20th cen device.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 what I laughed out loud the most was both that you used the old repair method and that you used it immediately upon encountering a problem :D, it was like an instinct
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Alan Bean burned out the camera on Apollo 12 by pointing it at the Sun :) I saw it happen in real time. I had stayed up all night (with permission from my Dad) to see the moonwalk and I knew what had happened as soon as it happened! Face palm! In the course of trying to fix the camera, Mission Control advised him to rap on the camera with his geology hammer! (It didn't work.)
I heard about Deoxit for the first time on this channel, and I was surprised it is even available here in Germany. It is as awesome as Adrian makes it look. :-D
It really is! I have an Enlight ATX case for my Pentium II. Every time I hit the Power switch it would bounce, so you never knew if it would stay on or stay off. After watching ADB restore so many buttons and knobs, I figured.. WTH... Deoxit to the rescue! And of course it works great now! .. uhh then, I had to 3D model a replacement switch holder because the plastic tabs broke off of it when I pulled it from the metal chassis. Oh well. Part and parcel to retro gear.
I know Adrian has done this but I remember adding RGB input to these TV to turn to monitors back in eighties. Using an article from the TV repair magazines which I still have.
Hi Go good nice memory's. Looks great. And also good info. Go s grouos and Safe things. And go Safe Library's. And go great Safe areas. And go good Library's and Data. And go A grouos and. And go good Machines. Go Number Ones. And go good Lite products. And go G.E.s. and go Safe Computers. And go Safe Technologys. And go Safe meters. And go Great Safe Desks , and Department s.
Well wishes and to Department s and Staff and Systems. And go Smart things. And best wishes to desks and Departments. And Friendly hellos an a Excellent Day.
23:40 - I always screwed back screws like this and no one showed me the trick. The older I got the more attention I paid to the click. I had too much bad luck with sheared screw holes where I couldn't get a screw out or the screw went in but didn't grab so I'm extra careful with plastics, especially if it's some old equipment.
I don't know if I learned this from my dad or from experience, but I've been back-screwing until the threads line up for a very long time. It works no matter what the threads are cut into. I'm glad Adrian shares it with those younger players.
I had same set in the bedroom for years before updating to a new flat screen a few years ago. It was a good set for bed side viewing. Only changed it because the wife wanted a larger screen TV in the bedroom.
Awesome little TV! I would take measurements of one switch and find a modern replacement. through-hole tactile switches are plentiful on Digikey or Mouser, one is bound to fit the sizes, maybe with a longer plunger to take the keypress, attached via glue or mounted to the post.
This generation of Sony televisions had click-free non-mushy push-buttons. Really nice, at my parents house we had a 21" with 20mm thick wood chassis with an ultrasonic remote-control for power ffchannel up/down and volume up/down. Really nice television bought as a show-model bargain that worked from 78 all the way to 2005 when my parents retired it. It did have to get fixed maybe 4 or 5 times during it's lifetime, and usually the soft-power-on transistor had to be replaced. BTW Sony made the very best Trini-Trons don't confuse them with other CRT's. I still remember using my VCR as a video-pass-through to play very high quality artefact-coloured games with my dad's Apple ][plus.
Hey man. Just letting you know, those switches are more than likely good. They're extremely shallow travel switches with no feedback. They're just super oxidized. You're supposed to be able to just lightly tap the button, almost as if they're touch capacitance, but not quite.
I had a different brand of TV that was 13" and had the same type of tuner setup. I recall that it was nearly impossible to tune in the UHF channels. And the tuning would drift slightly over time since, like on your Sony, the tuning controls were at the top of the case and would get hot. Today the 52 watts power consumption you mentioned would be enough to power a pair of 42" TV's and have left over power. I noticed, also, that you remembered the standard "living room" whack on the TV to fix a glitch!
@ 12:13.… when it's a TV from the 80's you don't need to mess around with the settings menu... you just need to hit the side of it like the Fonz from happy day's that always fixes the problem.. but you need to be a cool dude or it doesn't work... Lololol
Any switch with the same pin footprint will work fine. If you want to try fixing the switches you have, you can try taking them apart and see if you can buff the carbon pad on a piece of paper. Fine grit sandpaper works too. You just need something that won't take too much material off but deglosses the pad. You can fix game pad contacts the same way. I'd recommend replacing them with a more reliable switch though.
It can be done entirely chemically with contact spray named "Kontakt 60". It dissolves copper oxide and is a bit oily. Just spray the switch and thump on the button for some time undil oxide dissolves, oily part prevents creation of new oxide layer. Used it on much smaller switches, works perfectly.
The rubber part that provides the "spring" is gone -- I've taken these apart before and there is no way to fix it. It's like the rubber membrane on a remote control -- once that comes apart, there is no way to fix it. The contact is actually fine, but it just is always pushed when its oriented top down. Something with the same footprint would been to be found -- but the dimensions matter due to the way it fits in with the buttons, etc. Regular modern momentaries does fit properly...
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Jeez, I didn't suppose there is a rubber membrane inside. Yet, maybe there is enough space to place a nice "clickable" microswitch(es) /inside them/ instead of the age-perished rubbery entrails? Microswitch taxidermy? :)
So those switches look very familiar. Chrysler radios, trip computers, and digital dashboards in the 80's used the exact same thing and the inside rubber things in the switches fall apart. There's a direct fit clicky replacement switch available on digikey that fits those and I bet it would fit this TV as well.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/101-TS7311T1606-EV?qs=9OaJOGpXADH5cvnnv3g57A%3D%3D These are the switches used to replace the stock ones for the Chrysler. Maybe they'll be right for this TV as well.
Attempting to add composite would probably be difficult, if not impossible. But looking at the stickers inside the case, I saw separate R Drive, G Drive, and B Drive indicators. Perhaps a modification where you disconnect the tuner and wire in direct RGB is possible.
I looked at schematics and it seems like it'll be very difficult. The one IC processes the IF and does the IF to RGB conversion there. Likely outputs some high voltages RGB appropriate for the drivers. Not to mention it being a live chassis set so there are tons of barriers. Not really worth it IMHO...
I had a Mitsubishi VCR when I was a kid that had a tuner like that. It was really amazing because you could record a different station then what you were watching. I only had a small B&W TV that had a manual clickey tuner, so I used the VCR with the remote. I still remember recording the series finale of Spiderman in the 90's on it.
Wow I forgot about that.... My dad's TV had that.. @3:48 but we only had five of them. "Tv tuner things" And what was even more cool was that we didn't have button's.. it had a 5 brass looking small circles.. that you touched and that switched the channels.. touch sensitive type thing.. I can remember as a kid thinking it was some space age technology.. thanks Adrian.. I'd have never remembered that without you showing this.. I got a flash back.. it was around Christmas when we got that TV..my dad was sooooo happy.. i remember him showing his friends that it doesn't have button's or a knob to turn. Lol thank you Adrian.. thank you so much.. ♥️
There is a single huge swirl visible on the CRT picture almost like fingerprints - is it as visible in person? What causes it, and can it be suppressed/cleaned up?
That comes from the plastic cover infront of the CRT not being perfectly flat. In person you don't see that. The camera does. There might be a way to filter it out somehow, but generally you can't fool physics.
That's right it's the camera picking that up -- the sensor has pixels which don't align with the RGB pattern on the front of the CRT causing that Moire pattern.
Found some switches on aliexpress that look like they might be the right thing. www.aliexpress.com/item/32705629153.html It claims that they're (clones of) some ALPS switch but in my quick searching I didn't find any match, so I can't find a more local/reliable source. If those don't fit then a long-shaft typical 6mm tactile button mounted at 45 degrees with 2 opposite pins cut off should fit nicely, maybe with some flats ground into the top of it.
Adrian, long time viewer, I just got one of these at a garage sale for $5 and was glad to see you have a video on this set :-) The keys ontop for me do the same, no feedback. Mine did not come with the plastic, I also picked up a panasonic ct-1030m monitor for $5 from the same place.
@14:00 You go to love old Sony stuff and the arrows pointing at the places you need to stick your screwdriver in to.. it was like it was inviting you to have a look inside.. and the all individual components on the PCB had numbers beside them.. And the schematics available on request and free.. you could phone and ask for them and you'd get them delivered by post.. and when requesting you'd be asked if you'd like a catalogue sent out. And then you'd get the Sony's new things catalogue once a year.. I can remember getting them sent to my house and looking at all the cool stuff that we didn't have the money to buy.. now everything is made to a price so the consumer can afford it.. but Sony made things just to make them knowing that no-one is going to buy them.. it was just to show off.. making "the world's first" something or other charging £1000's and only selling 100/200 of them to rich people. As a proof of concept..
Beautiful TV, repaired many sonys over my 38 yrs as a repair technician... My only gripe, why spend 10 minutes showing the cabinet, let's get right to the blood and guts...😃 Anyway, nice video and I sincerely miss the 70's-early 2000's as it was a great time for the service industry.
ADRIAN! Search Amazon for "Auto Trim Removal Tool" - I think you'll find some tools that will make removing stubborn knobs much easier. Thanks for all the great content.
"There's probably some special fader lube designed for mixing consoles that probably works better than this..." Yeah and that's why it's used in potentiometers. You're just *lazy* and shouldn't work on other peoples stuff. Come on. Grow.
Adrian.. keep the test signal on it .or unplugged it.. never leave it plugged in.. or just with just static. If you hear a voice calling you then run... Don't walk in to the light Adrian.. don't walk in to the light.. "poltergeist reference"... Lol thanks for the great video.. it was sooo good.. can't thank you enough..
"adrian's DIGITAL basement" ? where is the digital element of all these monitor repairing videos ? you are only encouraging me to open up the non-working 9inch monitors I have and running the risk of electrocution LOL
oh those dreadful 300ohm connectors... we here in Australia only ever had one input for 300ohm VHF and UHF and of course one for 75ohm cable .... still a nice set.... you need a ßeta VCR to connect to it!
modding RGB is probably easier than you think. there are many videos on the subject by The Post-Apocalyptic Inventor you can check where he does just that.
(03:49) Nothing special there... That was a fairly standard way of tuning all of those sets of that time period! It was an analogue PLL tuner. Before digital synthesized tuners were released.
Those momentary push button switches look like something you'd be able to find a modern equivilant to. I'd look at a parts catalog and see if you can find something with same or very similar dimensions. could find some microswitches that feel nicer than rubber dome
Feels a bit weird seeing the explanation of the channel selector here. Back in the eighties all the TVs I knew, except for the very oldest ones, had these individually tunable pushbutton selectors.
I think you might be able to renovate those failed buttons if you really wanted to, if you can spudge them apart & clean out the old membrane you could cut up the membrane from an old laptop keyboard to replace them if that's what they were inside.
Send mix good products in the older TVS local really cord never had any but he looked really neat and that 1 you're looking at looks really cool1 thing I like that song you makes is there stereo as a pretty good cause I have a stereo so it's almost more than 20 years old that still works really good it's 1 of the old boom boxes that I got when I was a teenager Pass that
![Adrian's Digital Basement ][](http://yt3.ggpht.com/ytc/AIdro_k7CrQRe71qN6c0Ua7A1P_I8KkxjqLa70u0zYeCvdvnKw=s48-c-k-c0x00ffffff-no-rj)
Professional live audio mixer here...
DeoxIT does make a fader specific cleaner, Which is also better for potentiometers than standard D5. It's called DeoxIT Fader F5. It adds a little bit of a lubricant to the fader to keep them gliding smooth. With D5 you're just cleaning off the oxidization, but it can also strip off any internal lubricant that was in place. Lubricants used in these devices need to be non-conductive. Fader F5 is what I use in boards I am doing maintenance on.
"Some interference"
✳Meanwhile, in Adrian's recycle bin, 500lbs of RF shields laugh in unison✳
I am in the UK. About thirty years ago my late father bought a second hand Sony TV - a 20 inch one - model KV-2060UB. It weighed a lot, but was built like a tank. That level of build quality is lost to the cheap electronics available today
Its logical since people are buing cheepest items. They are just making what people are looking for.
My parents had a VCR that used a combination of a small selector switches and fine tuner pots to choose channel presets. Sometimes the channels would slightly shift when the lid was closed, so choosing where the signal was best was through a process of guessing the offset.
That brings back memories. Those buttons with the rubber domes inside would probably have failed by the mid-to-late 90s - the ones I had certainly did. I had an SL-C5UB Betamax video recorder that I fitted replacement buttons to, and a KV-2212UB2 TV where I pulled out the top halves of the buttons, so I could select channels by poking a screwdriver onto the contact pads.
The TV's long gone, but I still have the SL-C5 (in fact I have a load of them, plus various other models). Those replacement buttons are probably also dead by now!
Heh yeah! You know those switches well! I took one apart and exactly. There is a metal switch underneath a rubber dome which is completely perished. So not all that's pushing on the contact is a bad dome. Funny as I have more Sony TVs coming up (of similar age) and only this one has the perished buttons. So not sure why!
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Oh wow, your reply has just stirred up the vaguest of memories that I had some other very similar Sony TV and the buttons were fine on that one - it was something like a KV-2215UB. It was over twenty years ago!
(07:32) That is called a 300 to 75ohm Balun matching transformer.
I had this tv. In 1989 I finally got a vcr with a IR remote! I set channel 3 as the first channel and plugged the tv into the vcr so I could use the remote to turn on everything. It felt like the lap of luxury in my teenage bedroom.
Heh that is very cool. How long did you have it for?
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 I had the tv from 1984 till 2018. I ended up donating it to the Frisco video game museum. I had it repaired in 2004 for the same problem you fixed on the video. It ran perfect and worked like a champ for almost 30 years. As far as I know it has a nes attached to it at the museum still .
I am a big fan of your videos. I love old computers and CRTs so this is all right up my alley. I know for testing purposes that only using the test pattern generator makes sense, but I wish you would show some decent quality video playback from a movie or something to show off how well the repair went. For instance a series of movie clips that are short enough or through fair use that you don’t get in trouble. Or just something you wouldn’t have a rights issue with like public domain. Seeing old computers hooked up is always fun too. They don’t have to be long segments I would just like to really see these old sets in action other than the bar patterns. It is a small nitpick. Keep up the good work!
13:00 Toshiba mark their screws with arrows as well, i took apart a 50" 7yr old flat screen the other week
I had a SONY TV Much like that I probably still have the owners manual someplace, but it had the plate glass front covering the Tube. For whatever reason it seemed to make the picture better when it was in place than when it was taken off. Was it polarized? No clue, but when it was on the picture looked real sharp and crisp for 640x480. If I still had it the picture probably looks horrible but for 1987 it was great little TV, it also had the matching slick little membrane remote.
@IMRROcom
That TV you mention sounds like the old XBR series that first came around in 1984 or so. It was silver casing with a glass bezel that was held in place with chromed latches or screws. That set was a big deal back then it had a triple comb filter which was rare in any set back then and very expensive to make.
@@watershed44 I found an old picture, the TV actually looks like it is a JVC from around 1987/1988. I purchased it new when I lived in Diego Garcia B.I.O.T. with a Hitachi VT-145? Stereo VCR (2 weeks pay). This VCR had the best way to program recordings on the remote. You sit at the table during breakfast looking at the TV guide for the week. Punch the show times into the LCD built into the remote and aim it at the VCR when stepping out the door it will transfer the program to the VCR no need to turn any thing on to program the VCR. Later when VCRs came out with "on screen programing" Those felt like a step back as I had to turn everything on and sit in front of the TV to program the VCR. The little TV sat perfectly on top of my stacked Stereo Cabinet with matching glass door on the front. The TV is a silver Box from the front, it had nothing extra around the tube. It has a flip down panel on the front and two handles on the side to pick it up. I must of liked the TV so much that I have a larger version of it around 15" or 19" that I purchased in 1989 when I lived in Hawaii from looking at an old photo. I had it hooked up to my C64 commodore computer. I also have my grandparents late 60's counsel TV with recorded player and radio built in. it still is like brand new with the paper cover over the recorded player. it is the $929.95 25" TV with the sliding doors in the center of the "1966_SearsChristmas_Page344" ad that can be found in google search. Funny when something cost half the price of a new car and looks very nice that people take care of it. We use it as an table behind the sofa now. Most people have no clue that it is a TV and just think it is a real nice table. O 'well like the 'old' electronics as I was growing up with them at that time.
The antenna is a replacement antenna, the orange knob on the end is a dead giveaway. Also, the base of the antenna is double the diameter of the antenna itself, indicating that whoever replaced it replaced it with a smaller (diameter) antenna than the original.
Actually Sony OEM antennas from around that time had red tips: i0.wp.com/potsandpansbyccg.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/television-sony-en-casa-de-mis-padres.jpg?fit=1000%2C899&ssl=1
The 1978 19" Sony Trinitron we had when I was a kid had red tips just like this one.
Very beautiful little TV!
Sony Made the best TVs in the 80s... No doubt about it. Awesome video of enjoying Adrian!
Both Sony & Phillips (in Europe, that is).
Yeah I agree -- in the later 70s and into the 80s and even into the 90s, no one matched Sony for CRT TVs. The picture and build quality is just amazing on them.
Wonder if you could bypass the tuner entirely and feed it a composite or better yet s-video signal?
Guess it depends on what you want to connect.
Sure you could, the TV ends up demodulating RF to s-video anyway, just find the right place on schematics and hook in
Is possible, just need a little transformer to separate the mains voltage so you don't get a ground loop when connecting certain things.
You have to be careful - if the TV has a hot chassis, you absolutely cannot add a composite/svideo/rgb input withou adding an isolation transformer first
I think you can put composite video and audio directly to the video audio circuits, as long as the audio video comes from a cable converter or vcr etc.
23:32 Fran is Awesome! she got me into UA-cam electronics, we need more girls on here
I was watching Ghostbusters (1983) the other day, and I think this TV may also feature in that movie as well, or at least one very similar looking to it.
The Poltergeist is in it :D my oldest TV is from 1956(Philips) and the newes CRT TV is from 1973 a Philips and 1973 a Grundig THank you for that great Video.
As I remember my mother had one of those small sony TV's in her kitchen. That's right the correct thing to do was spit in the back and whomp it one until it came on lol
rgb cutoff is probably the word you were looking for, either way blanking (black level) or bias as you said and the opposite of drive as you said.
Yeah it's funny they had it labelled with a term I hadn't seen. Most TVs use bias as the label including slightly newer Sony's. It controls the voltage bias on the cathode drive -- how close to ground it is.
That same tv is shown in Poltergeist (1982).
I have two KV 4000 (where the design of yours has its offspring, with actual metal instead of golden paint), and both of them have broken push buttons as well. Seems like the whole line was affected by cheap push switches.
A really nice unit. Would be cool to remove the tuner and integrate a Pi and make it a portable CRT retro game console.
@Adrian's Digital Basement ][
do you have the microswitch dimensions for the channel selector?
Actually when new Sony did give you UHF channel gels from 14 to 69.
It's unfortunate about the switches. I hope you find a fix for them. Would also be neat with a composite or RBG input mod, but it might not be trivial, I have no idea.
momentary switch is the correct term ..
Is there a reason, why there is no channel one?
I hope you are able to find the replacement selectors. I found a tv like the first tv I had as a kid on a for sale site. Kinda want to get it.
"A very Boxy design"... I wonder how many others will get this second-channel related pun? An interest in subterranean hellholes would assist.
It always struck me as weird that something like Belling-Lee connectors or type F connectors weren't used and built into TVs in North America, and instead those odd twin lead connectors seem to have been everywhere.
The F connector was found starting in the late 70s. Was kind of odd this little set didn't have it... But adapters are easy enough to use. Twin lead was just used here forever for radio and TV. Took a little while to switch to F. You have to realize that TV was popular and common here before other places in the world, so the old connection standard was so prevalent. I lived in a early 1950s apartment building that had twin lead hookups in every room from when it was built. Even then they were thinking about TV reception which in that part of LA was not good without a roof antenna.
Will we see an RGB mod comming up?😉
Soak the switches in isopropylalcohol,or use an ultrasonic cleaner
What you really need is a exorcist to expel that poltergeist from the TV
Composite Mod?
Me: I only see the VHS behind and I want to know if Adrian will do another video because he did not enter the IP address properly 😆
I think the 400=lines
I think this channel needs to be Adrian's Analogue Basement
If he has a Digital Basement, it should be Adrian's Analog Attic!
I thought about that too! I want to see him get into the spaghetti electronics in old shortwave radios! The days before modern contraptions like circuit boards!
My slight OCD would've put the numbers in the correct order and then removed all but the second switch, so that 3 would be in the correct position.
hehe yeah, I think you're not alone in feeling that. Me personally I don't mind. Perhaps once day I can find compatible switches and restore the functionality -- although to what end, this TV will never need anything but channel 3 I guess.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Sure, but it has buttons, and buttons are meant to be pushed! :) And all those light bulbs that will never lite up - what a tragedy!
Can you turn the numbers around to use the backs as “blanks”? Seems like an OCD compromise.
@@galois19 the numbers would probably just be backwards then.
Same here. I legitimately cringed when I saw the channel numbers out of order.
Adrian invokes the most retro of TV repair methods from the 20th cen. He bangs it, and it helps. As sure sign he's a 20th cen man working on a 20th cen device.
Alway try some percussive maintenance first :-)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 what I laughed out loud the most was both that you used the old repair method and that you used it immediately upon encountering a problem :D, it was like an instinct
@@thundreturtle and totally authentic, I had to laugh out loud as well.
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Alan Bean burned out the camera on Apollo 12 by pointing it at the Sun :) I saw it happen in real time. I had stayed up all night (with permission from my Dad) to see the moonwalk and I knew what had happened as soon as it happened! Face palm! In the course of trying to fix the camera, Mission Control advised him to rap on the camera with his geology hammer! (It didn't work.)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 A little percussive maintenance seems to always work with my solar lights...😹
Ahhhh percussive maintenance, how I don't miss thee. Thank you for the trip down nostalgic lane. :)
13:03 - actually still true of Sony to this very day. All PS consoles have these arrows as well.
Deoxit really should sponsor you, I ordered some today for something purely from you plugging it all the time!
I heard about Deoxit for the first time on this channel, and I was surprised it is even available here in Germany. It is as awesome as Adrian makes it look. :-D
It really is! I have an Enlight ATX case for my Pentium II. Every time I hit the Power switch it would bounce, so you never knew if it would stay on or stay off. After watching ADB restore so many buttons and knobs, I figured.. WTH... Deoxit to the rescue! And of course it works great now!
.. uhh then, I had to 3D model a replacement switch holder because the plastic tabs broke off of it when I pulled it from the metal chassis. Oh well. Part and parcel to retro gear.
Same here, I had heard the name before but never really knew what it did. Since seeing it on your channel, I bought a can and I’m using it everywhere!
Phil Nelson’s Antique Radios site also mentions using Deoxit in the process of restoring old radios and TVs.
I know Adrian has done this but I remember adding RGB input to these TV to turn to monitors back in eighties. Using an article from the TV repair magazines which I still have.
I reckon plenty of folks would be interested to see that article. I certainly am. Any chance you’d like to post a scan somewhere?
It is Onslow approved.
Ahh yes, Adrians Analogue Attic 🙂
Hi
Hi
Go good nice memory's. Looks great. And also good info.
Go s grouos and Safe things. And go Safe Library's. And go great Safe areas.
And go good Library's and Data. And go A grouos and. And go good Machines.
Go Number Ones. And go good Lite products. And go G.E.s. and go Safe Computers. And go Safe Technologys.
And go Safe meters. And go Great Safe Desks , and Department s.
Nice
Well wishes and to Department s and Staff and Systems. And go Smart things. And best wishes to desks and Departments. And Friendly hellos an a Excellent Day.
And go whites and go Lites
23:40 - I always screwed back screws like this and no one showed me the trick. The older I got the more attention I paid to the click. I had too much bad luck with sheared screw holes where I couldn't get a screw out or the screw went in but didn't grab so I'm extra careful with plastics, especially if it's some old equipment.
I don't know if I learned this from my dad or from experience, but I've been back-screwing until the threads line up for a very long time. It works no matter what the threads are cut into. I'm glad Adrian shares it with those younger players.
I have a Sony Trinitron KV-10FMR20 and I love it. I think 10" is my fav size.
I had same set in the bedroom for years before updating to a new flat screen a few years ago. It was a good set for bed side viewing. Only changed it because the wife wanted a larger screen TV in the bedroom.
Awesome little TV! I would take measurements of one switch and find a modern replacement. through-hole tactile switches are plentiful on Digikey or Mouser, one is bound to fit the sizes, maybe with a longer plunger to take the keypress, attached via glue or mounted to the post.
Now hook up that VCR with the Teensy and Ethernet connection to this TV :)
It would be great to hook up that monitor to the RF output of the C64 to see what it looks like
What a coincidence, I just did a video yesterday on the Sony KV-6000BE 5" version of this set. Lovely screen.
This generation of Sony televisions had click-free non-mushy push-buttons. Really nice, at my parents house we had a 21" with 20mm thick wood chassis with an ultrasonic remote-control for power ffchannel up/down and volume up/down. Really nice television bought as a show-model bargain that worked from 78 all the way to 2005 when my parents retired it. It did have to get fixed maybe 4 or 5 times during it's lifetime, and usually the soft-power-on transistor had to be replaced.
BTW Sony made the very best Trini-Trons don't confuse them with other CRT's. I still remember using my VCR as a video-pass-through to play very high quality artefact-coloured games with my dad's Apple ][plus.
Hey man. Just letting you know, those switches are more than likely good. They're extremely shallow travel switches with no feedback. They're just super oxidized. You're supposed to be able to just lightly tap the button, almost as if they're touch capacitance, but not quite.
I had a different brand of TV that was 13" and had the same type of tuner setup. I recall that it was nearly impossible to tune in the UHF channels. And the tuning would drift slightly over time since, like on your Sony, the tuning controls were at the top of the case and would get hot. Today the 52 watts power consumption you mentioned would be enough to power a pair of 42" TV's and have left over power.
I noticed, also, that you remembered the standard "living room" whack on the TV to fix a glitch!
@ 12:13.… when it's a TV from the 80's you don't need to mess around with the settings menu... you just need to hit the side of it like the Fonz from happy day's that always fixes the problem.. but you need to be a cool dude or it doesn't work... Lololol
i'm pretty sure i watched the first eight seasons of the Simpsons multiple time over on that model of TV, in the mid-late 1990s.
I have one of these that was modified by the company Videotek, and they added bnc connectors to it. It's awesome.
The tuning preset switches were something that was very common on European TVs.
Ghostbusters Dana Barrett's TV! So beautiful!
Adrian's Analog Attic pls
"AAA"
@@BritishAPT A cubed
Any switch with the same pin footprint will work fine. If you want to try fixing the switches you have, you can try taking them apart and see if you can buff the carbon pad on a piece of paper. Fine grit sandpaper works too. You just need something that won't take too much material off but deglosses the pad. You can fix game pad contacts the same way. I'd recommend replacing them with a more reliable switch though.
It can be done entirely chemically with contact spray named "Kontakt 60". It dissolves copper oxide and is a bit oily. Just spray the switch and thump on the button for some time undil oxide dissolves, oily part prevents creation of new oxide layer. Used it on much smaller switches, works perfectly.
The rubber part that provides the "spring" is gone -- I've taken these apart before and there is no way to fix it. It's like the rubber membrane on a remote control -- once that comes apart, there is no way to fix it. The contact is actually fine, but it just is always pushed when its oriented top down. Something with the same footprint would been to be found -- but the dimensions matter due to the way it fits in with the buttons, etc. Regular modern momentaries does fit properly...
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Would you be able to fit a real spring inside?
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 Jeez, I didn't suppose there is a rubber membrane inside. Yet, maybe there is enough space to place a nice "clickable" microswitch(es) /inside them/ instead of the age-perished rubbery entrails? Microswitch taxidermy? :)
@@adriansdigitalbasement2 - TV is probably long gone but thinking a slice of surgical tubing underneath could be a spring.
So those switches look very familiar. Chrysler radios, trip computers, and digital dashboards in the 80's used the exact same thing and the inside rubber things in the switches fall apart. There's a direct fit clicky replacement switch available on digikey that fits those and I bet it would fit this TV as well.
www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Eagle-Plastic-Devices/101-TS7311T1606-EV?qs=9OaJOGpXADH5cvnnv3g57A%3D%3D These are the switches used to replace the stock ones for the Chrysler. Maybe they'll be right for this TV as well.
Attempting to add composite would probably be difficult, if not impossible. But looking at the stickers inside the case, I saw separate R Drive, G Drive, and B Drive indicators. Perhaps a modification where you disconnect the tuner and wire in direct RGB is possible.
I looked at schematics and it seems like it'll be very difficult. The one IC processes the IF and does the IF to RGB conversion there. Likely outputs some high voltages RGB appropriate for the drivers. Not to mention it being a live chassis set so there are tons of barriers. Not really worth it IMHO...
Maybe Revisit it ? Place new microswitches with correct hight of stems in and it will work like new. And of course a F-plug mod ?
You mean tactile switches; microswitches won't fit.
I had a Mitsubishi VCR when I was a kid that had a tuner like that. It was really amazing because you could record a different station then what you were watching. I only had a small B&W TV that had a manual clickey tuner, so I used the VCR with the remote. I still remember recording the series finale of Spiderman in the 90's on it.
Wow I forgot about that.... My dad's TV had that.. @3:48 but we only had five of them. "Tv tuner things" And what was even more cool was that we didn't have button's.. it had a 5 brass looking small circles.. that you touched and that switched the channels.. touch sensitive type thing.. I can remember as a kid thinking it was some space age technology.. thanks Adrian.. I'd have never remembered that without you showing this.. I got a flash back.. it was around Christmas when we got that TV..my dad was sooooo happy.. i remember him showing his friends that it doesn't have button's or a knob to turn. Lol thank you Adrian.. thank you so much.. ♥️
I'm guessing those switches, due to where they are located, suffered heat damage.
There is a single huge swirl visible on the CRT picture almost like fingerprints - is it as visible in person? What causes it, and can it be suppressed/cleaned up?
That comes from the plastic cover infront of the CRT not being perfectly flat. In person you don't see that. The camera does. There might be a way to filter it out somehow, but generally you can't fool physics.
That's right it's the camera picking that up -- the sensor has pixels which don't align with the RGB pattern on the front of the CRT causing that Moire pattern.
Right to Repair. Support that , please?
Found some switches on aliexpress that look like they might be the right thing. www.aliexpress.com/item/32705629153.html
It claims that they're (clones of) some ALPS switch but in my quick searching I didn't find any match, so I can't find a more local/reliable source.
If those don't fit then a long-shaft typical 6mm tactile button mounted at 45 degrees with 2 opposite pins cut off should fit nicely, maybe with some flats ground into the top of it.
I don’t know if anybody else mentioned on your paper you had 1982, but you mentioned 1992,, if it was 1992 .The model would been have been a kv-8AD10
I have a Deoxit for plastic faders, F5 I believe.
Adrian, long time viewer, I just got one of these at a garage sale for $5 and was glad to see you have a video on this set :-) The keys ontop for me do the same, no feedback. Mine did not come with the plastic, I also picked up a panasonic ct-1030m monitor for $5 from the same place.
@14:00 You go to love old Sony stuff and the arrows pointing at the places you need to stick your screwdriver in to.. it was like it was inviting you to have a look inside.. and the all individual components on the PCB had numbers beside them.. And the schematics available on request and free.. you could phone and ask for them and you'd get them delivered by post.. and when requesting you'd be asked if you'd like a catalogue sent out. And then you'd get the Sony's new things catalogue once a year.. I can remember getting them sent to my house and looking at all the cool stuff that we didn't have the money to buy.. now everything is made to a price so the consumer can afford it.. but Sony made things just to make them knowing that no-one is going to buy them.. it was just to show off.. making "the world's first" something or other charging £1000's and only selling 100/200 of them to rich people. As a proof of concept..
But.... but.... that’s ANALOG!!! What’s it doing in the DIGITAL BASEMENT!!! 😲
@Andrian's Digital Basement ][
*A lot of folks made a great suggestion, why not call this second channel "Adrian's Analog Attic"?*
Sounds catchy too.
on ebay item 114165313016 could work is just a generic 2pin micro switch with a long shaft.
Beautiful TV, repaired many sonys over my 38 yrs as a repair technician...
My only gripe, why spend 10 minutes showing the cabinet, let's get right to the blood and guts...😃
Anyway, nice video and I sincerely miss the 70's-early 2000's as it was a great time for the service industry.
ADRIAN! Search Amazon for "Auto Trim Removal Tool" - I think you'll find some tools that will make removing stubborn knobs much easier.
Thanks for all the great content.
"There's probably some special fader lube designed for mixing consoles that probably works better than this..."
Yeah and that's why it's used in potentiometers. You're just *lazy* and shouldn't work on other peoples stuff.
Come on. Grow.
I would just try a tact switch. I'm sure you can get one in a similar size to those worn out ones.
Adrian.. keep the test signal on it .or unplugged it.. never leave it plugged in.. or just with just static. If you hear a voice calling you then run... Don't walk in to the light Adrian.. don't walk in to the light.. "poltergeist reference"... Lol thanks for the great video.. it was sooo good.. can't thank you enough..
they're he-ere 06:36
"adrian's DIGITAL basement" ?
where is the digital element of all these monitor repairing videos ? you are only encouraging me to open up the non-working 9inch monitors I have and running the risk of electrocution LOL
oh those dreadful 300ohm connectors... we here in Australia only ever had one input for 300ohm VHF and UHF and of course one for 75ohm cable .... still a nice set.... you need a ßeta VCR to connect to it!
modding RGB is probably easier than you think. there are many videos on the subject by The Post-Apocalyptic Inventor you can check where he does just that.
12:43- The '400' denoted the price! ;)
That's the Poltergeist TV that was kept in the kitchen.
"Don't sit so close, Carol Anne, you'll ruin your eyes!"
I play a game with myself identifying computers in old shows and movies. I guess Adrian plays the same game with CRTs 🤣
(03:49) Nothing special there... That was a fairly standard way of tuning all of those sets of that time period! It was an analogue PLL tuner. Before digital synthesized tuners were released.
Those momentary push button switches look like something you'd be able to find a modern equivilant to. I'd look at a parts catalog and see if you can find something with same or very similar dimensions. could find some microswitches that feel nicer than rubber dome
This looks like the tv from "Poltergeist"(original), about ten years later(92)
In Europe/UK the aerial connection is coax. I always found it strange it was two terminals in North America.
Feels a bit weird seeing the explanation of the channel selector here. Back in the eighties all the TVs I knew, except for the very oldest ones, had these individually tunable pushbutton selectors.
Only a TV nerd would remember what kind of TV was in the kitchen in poltergeist.
This case design is so cute. And the picture is beautiful and crisp, wow. Very nice quality product
I think you might be able to renovate those failed buttons if you really wanted to, if you can spudge them apart & clean out the old membrane you could cut up the membrane from an old laptop keyboard to replace them if that's what they were inside.
Maybe that's the original TV from the movie. That would be interesting.
Send mix good products in the older TVS local really cord never had any but he looked really neat and that 1 you're looking at looks really cool1 thing I like that song you makes is there stereo as a pretty good cause I have a stereo so it's almost more than 20 years old that still works really good it's 1 of the old boom boxes that I got when I was a teenager Pass that