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My dream dress doesn't exist... so I made it.
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- Опубліковано 18 сер 2024
- I gave sewing my own clothes a try and it was… challenging. ORDER my poetry collection, BARGAIN BIN ROM-COM! linktr.ee/barg...
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"Sewing" is like 5% sewing and 95% puzzling, measuring, pinning, cutting, calculating, laying things out, trying things on, ironing, and, of course, ✨ seam ripping ✨
That’s so true and I wish it wasn’t 🥹😂
Exactly !!!!
Well... only if you do it "right" 😆 I say this as someone who cuts many of these corners and always end up with something not great, but usually "fine" for what I'm doing.
I was just ironing and was thinking to myself that the secret skill of a good sewer is ironing cos I'm personally not particularly good at it yet and man does it get me into trouble (my cutting skills also regularly get me into trouble lol).
if you never learned design, then yes, it is
A few tips and tricks, from one person who's spent a lot of time sewing to you. 1) Iron your seams open, it'll make everything sit a lot neater. 2) definitely zig zag the seam allowances, it'll make the thing last a lot longer. 3) take a piece of elastic the size you want the waist to be, then sew it to the waist stretched out as far as you can make it go, that way when it contracts back, it'll take the fabric with it. 4) sewing is meant to be done in periods of no more than 3 hours a day. And that's if you enjoy it for the fun of it, so no more than 1 to 1.5 for you. 5) make the spare fabric into pockets, you'll be so glad of them
Honestly, I'm surprised you managed to make so few mistakes! There's not a dressmaker alive who doesn't have to unpick at least one seam in every garment, however experienced they are.
You did great, congrats
Thanks for these 5 great tips! Especially sewing no more than 3 hours in a day if you enjoy it or 1-1.5 if you don't! Amazing, brilliant, and helpful that! 🤯❤️👍
SCRAPS INTO POCKETS! YES ALWAYS!
@@CK28989 Yes, everything must have pockets, big as possible.
Yes! My other rule is after 3 mistakes I stop for the day.
@@Divarenee I don't think mine is a rule yet but I definitely have a cap for how much unpicking I'll do in a day. I'll finish off the bit I'm in the middle of, restitch it if that's needed, and then if I leave it alone - even if that restitch needs unpicking.
OK, I"m clinging to my status as a 70 year old gran who's been sewing for 60 years -- I've made everything from baby clothes to winter coats, totes, snow suits, etc. And I have to say - THIS is a brilliant first project. You did not have a gran sitting next to you (if you want one to do so in a Zoom sort of way, ring me up) ... and YET (and yet!) you did it. All of it. Figured it out - and did things that usually aren't on the menu the first go round (like, cutting on a neckline! bias bindings! gathering and sewing into a flat piece!). Excellent job. And, you choose a fantastic Liquorish All-sorts (tm) patterned fabric. Love it. Now, down to the deets -- Do I like it boxy? Yes - it's a great 'It's Saturday and I have to run out to do the errands' sort of dress. Leave it as is. The next time you make this (you WILL make it again, right? That's one of the things I advocate strongly because it will now take you half the time you spent learning how to do all the other bits), you might want to investigate the ideas of putting darts in. I'm going to advise using crap fabric (usually called a muslin but you might be able to find something less expensive in a charity shop), cutting out the top and pinning in some darts and seeing how you like it before you do the whole thing in another fab print. Darts in a top can be a little bit tricky - because you want the point of the triangle (the part pointing up toward the nipple) to NOT be at the nipple (this is not 1958 and we are not wearing bullet bras). Another idea would be to put in little pleats where the top meets the skirt - that's another idea - and you can do teeny ones all the way around if you like. Do NOT (I advise you from my fashion experiences of the late 1960s when 'baby doll' styling was 'in') just think, 'Oh, I'll just whack a length of 1/4" or 3/8" elastic in the seam between the top and the skirt to pull the whole mess in.' This will instantaneously turn this very cute dress into a maternity dress. Not a good idea. Trust me - I've been there.
As someone who knows nothing about clothes, this was fascinating! Great job! Now I understand how complex and labor-intensive making garments is. I don't shop fast fashion, but this definitely opened my eyes to just how messed up the industry is!
So I just watched this after a 7 hour sewing shift and just wanted to say how much I appreciate you both learning to sew and acknowledging that it's a difficult craft! I love all of your videos, but especially the sewing ones. I enjoy watching people stumble through and learn new things, especially things I personally enjoy doing. Also, you're doing a fantastic job! The dress looks great and I love your sewing machine! 💚
For anyone not wanting to buy any tools to make bias binding: you can cut a strip of thin cardboard (width: half of your fabric strip which is four times the width of binding you want to see on your finished garment, length: as long as you can) and mark the middle. Then you simply put the cardboard in the middle of your fabric strip, fold up the edges so they meet at the mark you made in the middle and iron over it.
There's also some good 3D print files for different size bias binding makers, if you've got a maker space nearby (like at a library or university)!
Yes, and even better, is that it isn't more plastic being bought.
As an experienced seamstress, I applaud you! I think it and you are adorable. Mistakes are part of the learning process and I think the dress looks fabulous. You could take it in or if you want options, use a fun pin/brooch and play around with pinning it in instead of darts, which are permanent. That way when you feel arty, you can leave it boxy and when you feel extra sassy, you can pin it and show more curves.
Yes! Great tip with the brooch/pin.
Fabric is normally sold in 2 different widths (115cm and 150cm) and a commercial pattern will show you the layout for the different widths.
I have found that there is wide variety for this but the width is almost always given (in store check the end of the bolt, or online check the description. If you can’t find it, ask). Also shrinkage can vary between different fabrics so always measure measure measure and lay out pattern pieces if you have them to see if everything fits. If you are working from instructions and not a pattern, make up a pattern first from a stiff paper like packaging paper. It really does help to be able to lay out pattern pieces on the fabric.
Leena, great work on this! If I can give a few pieces of advice?
First -- the "big stitch" vs "little stitch" thing. The big stitch thing is also called a basting stitch. Sewists often use basting stitches to hold two pieces in place temporarily to check for fit, as they are easier to remove. Once they are sure they like the position, they just do another row of stitches with a narrower/littler size stitch to lock in place. You can do this too on any of the seams that were basted.
Second -- Gathering the EASY way: Get some plain cotton string (thicker than your sewing thread. Pin it in place all the way along the edge of the side that needs to be gathered -- about 1.5 cm away from the edge. Set your machine to do a wide zig zag stitch. Don't worry about securing the zig zag; you can pick it out later. BE CAREFUL NOT TO STITCH INTO YOUR STRING.
Doing this will basically make a thread tunnel for the string. Now, holding onto one of the string ends, you can shove the fabric closer together, and pull it along the string to space it out more. What you are trying to do is make your gathers even, so they have a little pleat at repeatable measurements -- and so the size of the scrunched together fabric matches the size of the new piece you are attaching it to (You often are gathering a much wider piece, and getting it to fit onto a narrower piece.) Once you have it how you like it, pin the gathered fabric in place to the other piece. Sew a
seam, locking into place the two fabrics. Now you can remove the string , and the zigzag stitching if you want (I usually don't bother). Voila, much less consternation! z
a video to show this: ua-cam.com/video/DrJhNlJVLo8/v-deo.html (go past the "typical method" part in the vid)
Third -- Now that you know how to use a binding tool to make binding tape, there is a really cool trick that quilters use to make a continuous loop of it for doing things like making large amounts of it to bind the edges of a quilt (1-4 meters!). It looks hard, but is kind of magical. Just gotta remember to draw accurate lines and cut without crossing over your strip of fabric. ua-cam.com/video/DrJhNlJVLo8/v-deo.html
The more you iron as you go, the better your sewing will be. 80% of good sewing is prepping your material before you cut, then keeping things properly ironed and pinned in place while you sew. And yes, no more than 3 hours at a time unless you like having screaming pain in shoulders, back and wrists!
And when you can devote a few dollars to it? a gridded clear quilting ruler and mat are very handy, as are tailor's chalks/quilting pens for when you work on dark fabric like you did this time. (You can use Pentel Frixion pens for this too -- the heat from the iron will erase them. But always test on a little piece of fabric first) Also, an ergonomic seam ripper. If you need more advice, always happy to help.
You did an AMAZING job. I've been sewing for 25 years. My mum has been sewing for probably 60+ years. We still need seam rippers. We still mess up. I still manage to sew things backwards. I have also stubbornly avoided bias binding because I am not confident I can do it properly, so I was very impressed with yours!
Also, clothes are HARD. For a lot of reasons but generally boils down to everyones body being different I think.
Also that book has been added to the list, it sounds really good!
If you have not caught up with her before on UA-cam, I recommend catching up with Bernadette Banner for sewing tips and techniques. She just released her first how to sew book (focusing on repairing and making in opposition to fast fashion). There are lots of tips like the prewashing fabric in it!
Yes! I got my copy and I am obsessed with it!
I would second this! Madame banner's videos have helped me improve my sewing by a lot! Also, check out Rachel maksy! She has similar vibes to leena, and some absolutely fantastic projects!
Bernadette also has a new book out now, on basic sewing skills, might be interesting for you :-)
Also the Close Historian and Mariah Pattie are phenomenal! I've learnt so much about design and construction from them 😊
Such a cool dress, I love it!! As a beginner and self-taught seamstress myself, I'm very grateful that you include and explain all of your mistakes. I feel like I make more wrongs than rights when I sew and sometimes sewing tutorials can be intimidating when they're just "sew this and this and now you have a perfect garment!".
Coolirpa has many useful videos, one is called "7 useful sewing hacks you need to try" - the sixth hack is an efficient and quick way to make bias tape, definitely worth watching!!
Also, the segway music is a bop!
I was in the comments to suggest Coolirpa too, she's awesome! I also have a feeling that Micarah Tewers might be a good reference, especially for out of the box and extra practical tips, but she's also hilarious and, shall we say, unconventional in her tutorial style? lol I think her chaotic energy might be up Leena's alley! (and you're right, the music is such a vibe!!!)
You're a natural! I promise, rookie mistakes always pop up, even for those of us who make a living through textile work. I loved this so much!
The dress turned out so well! Definitely better than the dresses I made when i started sewing lol
But yes, pls zigzag stitch the inside hems before you wash the dress because the fabric will eventually fray all the way up to the stitches and start falling apart as you wear and wash it(unfortunately i speak from experience TT)
I cannot wait to see what you make next leena!
Love it more loose fitting! I love having a giant dress that your body can just disappear in, so you don't have to give it a single thought, regardless of how you feel about it on any given day
Also, it's just so you Leena! What an accomplishment, it looks lovely
God I remember the steep learning curve with sewing, but the good part was I dramatically improved with every thing I made. I really recommend charity shops for cheap fabric from bedsheets and curtains, and it’s good for zero waste too
the gathering thread that is still visible after you attach the sleeve is supposed to be taken out, the two gathering stitch lines are just a guideline for even gathering :D
This was the only thing I was going to say too! 🎉✂️
It took me sewing definitely more than 2-3 garments before I learned this!
Love this video as someone who learned dressmaking over lockdown. It really does make you appreciate the work that goes into making the most simple of garments and really makes you question how some companies can sell a dress for €10. I'm currently working on a coat, it has 32 separate pieces of fabric between the main fabric, lining and interfacing. Madness!
Yes! Trying to make things from scratch that are actually wearable really puts things into perspective. In the early pandemic days, I started to crochet a sweater, and realized that what I was spending for yarn alone was almost what a sweater would cost in a store. Even if those are probably machine made, it was still quite wild to me
I LOVE THIS. The pattern is poppin', the dress turned out so good, the video is comforting, your energy is unmatched. I am here for all of it and I thank you queen.
Leena cross sewing content is the niche I needed in my life 😅 okay so, as a fairly experienced sewist I think you've done extreemly well! Fabric, especially cotton will shrink up to 10% so that is a normal amount of shrinkage. Polycottons and blends shrink less. Always wash and dry the way you intend to with the finished garment so you can see how it goes. Hemming sleeves before gathering is easiest and deffo would have done the same. Hemming skirt before gathering is tricky because if you have boobs or bum that's bigger then the fabric may be shorter on one side than the other. If you're lucky like me to have a curved spine, hemming is forever a nightmare and what looks like a straight hem on my body, when show flat is wonky as heck! I think this fabric really suits you and was a good choice for the pattern as it has plenty of movement. My go to for boxy makes that I might want to cinch in is to make thin waist ties and insert at the side seams at the waistline. That way if you feel you want something boxier on one day you can loosely tie the ties behind your back, or if you want a more fitted look you can pull it tighter. Depending on how thin you make these ties can add a different design feature, you could go for wider ties if you want a statement belt type thing going on, or really thin ties (buy a loop turner, essential equipment for skinny tube turning). Gathering is my fav thing on a dress but my least favourite to do, it's tedious and boring so you're not alone there. So is making bias binding but often looks nicer handmade so worth the effort, and is definitely easier with the bias makers and less time consuming! Sewing has given me such a huge appreciation for how little garment workers are paid. People assume sewing my own clothes means it's cheaper, it really isn't. Fabric and time spent often means it would add up quote quickly if I were actually paying myself. But it is totally addictive having clothing that fits you properly, will be loved and worn for years to come and totally express your own personality! Very excited to see what you make next!
What a great fabric! You did so well and I love the sewing machine too. Might also give this a try at some point, I kind of want a summery floofy dress that I don't have to 'babysit' and this seems really nice for that.
Also! If you'd like some cinch, but also like the box, how about attaching some little belt loops on either side and you could either make the leftover strip into a belt, make one from a contrasting fabric or use a belt you already have! With tying a bow it stays very adjustable, so in my mind it's very low effort and you get all the benefits. If you're a more experienced sewist please let me know if this wouldn't be great for whatever reason haha!
Oooo yes to a little cinch!! I feel like the only thing this beautiful dress is missing is a bit of a waist. But obviously it's personal preference!! I absolutely *LOVE* your sewing videos!!!
Yes! I think the cinch would add a nice silhouette to the wide sleeves!
BIG NOTE : More fitting garments might need a zipper/fastening, I'd hate for Leena to add the darts and not be able to get her shoulders past it anymore when putting it on x_x
Leena if you see this you should just add a little tie! that way you can cinch if desired and leave it billowing as desired
Quick tip for cutting bias binding more efficiently:
Mark out the strips as usual, but, rather than cutting and sewing each individual strip, (a massive pain in the arse) take your parallelogram of fabric, and pin it end-to-end, leaving one strip's width sticking out at either end. (trust me on this one, I swear it'll make sense)
Once you've got a wonky tube, sew along the pinned edge, and then cut continuously from one of the sticky-out ends, et voilà! Bias binding, with only one trip to the sewing machine!
seconding this! someone above suggested a yt tutorial but i usually go by colette/seamwork's continuous bias tape tutorial, as i can't keep te 3d geometry of this in my head
Incoming message from the sewing gods, “Kudos to you for attempting bias binding!”
For future reference: when you buy a meter of fabric it is measured lengthwise but every fabric comes in a different width. This is not dependent on the country but the fabric roll itself. Cottons and other fabrics for garment making tend to be 110 cm; for upholstery or bedding they tend to be double-width, while other specific and fancy fabrics could be anything from 80 to 150 cm. and so on. So, before you buy you must check the width of the roll and calculate how you will position your pattern on it. Good luck on your sewing journey!
And, yes... cottons shrink a lot! And fray also.
Aww this dress is so gooood, really flattering! I'm a big fan of the loose Baby doll fit and it was my go-to when I started sewing.
Top tip: If you're worried about cocking up your lovely fabric maybe buy some cheap muslin (when you've got light fabric) or calico (when you're using heavier fabric) so you can do a practise run. You're basically doing a 3D sketch you can makes notes on it, alter it and you usually do it for Couture pieces but it might also be super handy if you're learning! I plan on using my spare muslin to make cushions and future toiles so it can be reused!
I also must recommend the book 'Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing' which is amazing and has literally everything you could want to know about sewing, from types of needles and fabrics to technique. They don't print it anymore so you'd have to find it second hand but I've found it way handier than scouring the internet whenever I have a question.
Low waste sewing tip: use damaged sheets and curtains for mock-ups. If I make a mock-up out of a sheet and it’s comfortable, I use it as pyjamas. I use to really grapple with wether or not to make mock-ups from a waste standpoint, but ultimately I think it’s the best option as it means the final piece will be perfect and therefore more wearable long term.
@@Susan-jd6kh OMG bedsheet mock-up pyjamas sound like the BEST thing
i’ve just bought this book on your recommendation! thank you :)
Excellent suggestions! Thanks for sharing!
As someone who has done some sewing from time to time and more seriously the past year:
- Bias binding _is_ hard even for the experienced!
- Trying a new pattern _always_ results in a few mishaps - you are doing the thing for the first time!
- Forgetting to pre-wash is very common and most makers have to develop their own "strategies" that help them remember to do it
You did really, really well and I loved seeing your excitement about the fabric, you daring to try things on your own and the final dress.
Keep on being awesome!
You need to use the leftover fabric to make pockets. Imagine this beautiful dress with pockets! Chef's kiss!
You could use the extra fabric to make a little belt to sinch the waist so you can have it boxy on hot days and sinched for events. You could also sew a ribbon of fabric on either side of your body at the waist and tie the lose ends into bows so you have an adjustable waist line
that vulnerable to fraying section was terrifying!! 'aaaaaah!!'
Ahhh Leena, these are but not mistakes, rather they are the reality of sewing. 😆 ❤️ The dress looks fantastic! Well done!
I've been sewing my own clothes for roughly four years now. It definitely was a very scary process in the beginning (filled with lots of second guessing, confusion and calling my mum late at night asking how pockets are made) and some of the items I made in the beginning sadly do not spark joy anymore. However, it has also become such a freeing and also empowering part of my life where I can think, "I'd like to have a skirt that is exactly this long, this flowy and made out of this fabric" and then I can go and just MAKE IT MYSELF (having a vision and finding the perfect fabric for it is of course a story of its own...). I haven't bought a single item of fast fashion in years. I'm now learning how to make my own underwear as well. It is not a cheap hobby and it also requires a bit of space (as well as bringing the danger of becoming a fabric hoarder), but I am incredibly happy that I embarked on this journey.
Love the dress!
Small tip from someone who makes clothes: if you want the dress to be boxy one day and cinched the next, you can just add a loop at the waist on each side, and create a long belt ( just like the binding you made but on the straight grain and sewn shut). Put it through the loops on each side and tie it in the back! From the front it will be cinched and in the back you'll have a lot of fun volume with a little bow from the belt :)
Excellent tip! 🤯 I have so much trouble with belts and this will help!
This is an accurate depiction of everyone attempting to sew their first dress! It gets easier for each garment you make!
Yes always always always hem ANYTHING while it’s flat if you can. I’ve never encountered a situation where it wasn’t easier. Big brain Leena👏💕
as someone who has been sewing since forever, you did a really great job. good choice of pattern, and the fabric you chose is very forgiving because you can't see any wonky stitching at all. if you want to avoid zigzagging the seams, get some pinking shears, you just trim the seams and they won't fray. if you accidentally sew with longer stitches than you meant to, you could just go over the top of the big stitches with smaller ones. black thread on black fabric you won't see it. much respect for making your own bias binding, that's not easy especially if you have to join lots of strips. I really want a liquorice allsorts dress now 😍
Wow! Dress turned out fab - and you made bias binding - respect!
I’m a long time sewist but have never got past the beginner stages really. You made freaking bias binding! 🙌🏻
For the possible modifications of your dress consider this - POCKETS! It shouldn't be too hard to add. And the benefit of making them as big as you want for hiding snacks and etc. is immeasurable!
i am a recent psych grad who taught themselves to sew as a form of creative therapy during lockdown to combat all the reading and zoom classes. now that i've graduated i decided to do a certificate 3 in applied fashion design & technology to keep on learning!
needless to say i adore your chaotic sewing content, accessible sewing videos where people make mistakes and learn (like rachel maksy's early videos) are what made me feel brave enough to try making my own clothes and now a overalls i made from a secondhand tartan bedsheet is one of my favourite garments i own!
honestly don't stress that much about sewing things with longer stitches! i always used to do really small stitches and then i realised if you have to unpick it's so many extra stitches compared to if you use a slightly longer one.
As someone who sews most of their clothes, it may be some comfort that I have made EVERY MISTAKE in this video NUMEROUS times. Some of them I STILL occasionally make. Mad props for making your own bias tape, understanding and explaining bias in a clear way and choosing a dark, busy fabric that hides mistakes well. Yes, sewing does take forever, but it does become way less stressful, you do eventually make fewer mistakes and it does become faster, but there's a reason why people used to own only a few outfits and altered or repaired clothes as much as possible. I spent about 60 pounds of fabric for one dress the other day, never mind all the labor of making it. And fabric comes in different widths- it's important to check the width when estimating how much you need.
This turned out great! My grandmother had a tailoring business for years and just before she retired she worked in embroidery at a university and I think she'd be very impressed with how well this turned out! Definitely going to show her at some point.
Not sure if it's something you'd consider (given the extortionate price of fabric nowadays) but Nottingham Trent University do almost a summer school where you can attend mini courses on different creative things like garment making and sewing!
I've been sewing nearly my entire life and I don't think I have made a single project larger than a cat toy that didn't require me to take out and redo at least one seam. I understand your pain.
This video made me SO excited! When you made your make-shift 45° angle, I literally applauded (am maths teacher).
I always get happy when people who say they are not into numeracy, step out of their comfort zone and/or don't let it stop them.
And the dress looks awesome too! It's inspired me to sew again too
Gorgeous dress! I would say to add some loops to the waist so you can put a belt around it, for when you want it more sinched in.
I am not a sewist, but as a knitter/general crafter the mistake counter felt very very relatable
I love it how you compared twirling in your candy dress to car circling, because circling a car is called performing a donut. :D
Experienced sewer here: Honestly, you did really well! The end result looks so good (personally I'd keep it boxy, but I'm a fan of that fit
Few notes:
- Fabric width - Most fashion fabric you'll buy comes in two standard widths 45" and 60" (115cm and 150cm). It's important to check if your width is compatible with your pattern before buying it (or if your pattern or length of fabric required needs adjusting). I've made that mistake and ended up with a dress that's amazing ... but just a little too short for my tastes.
- Shrinkage - Yeah, I have learnt this lesson the hard way. I've never had anything shrink quite that much, but it is frustrating when you've made something that fits really well, that now is just a little tight after washing.
- Bias tape - Yes I do understand that annoyance of pinning it to the wrong side first, unfortunately I sewed and trimmed my seam allowance before I spotted my mistake on my last garment, luckily my neck hole actually needed to be a little bigger, so it turned out to be slightly in my favour.
- "Mistake" 5 (and the remedy) - Actually this is the 'correct' way to do it. It helps your gathers remain completely even when you attached the two pieces together, and stops the gathering from being pushed and folded down the seam. Although I will admit, most people don't worry about it because it doesn't make that much difference for most fabrics.
- Yes go back and zig-zag stitch over all your seams. You'll regret it if you don't as it'll stop your dress literally falling apart when you wash it!!
Maybe someone has actually said this alredy but different fabrics have different widths. So to make it easier there should be fabric you can buy that is the right width. For the bias binding you can buy a stabelizer for the back of the fabric that can make it easier to handle. They do come in different weigts so buying one that isnt too thick is important so it still does its bias binding. You are doing a really good job tough! The seam ripper is a good friend to anyone who sews! And its never to early to cry Its 5 o clock somewhere!
Super cute! If you decide to take in the waist, make sure you can still get it on and off. More fitted clothes need a zip/button/etc. You could add long strings to the side seams and tie them in a bow in the back for an easier fitted look.
ohhhh this whole thing was so relatable! I have a love hate relationship with sewing. I can do it, mostly mending/altering but I don't like to do it/put it off as long as I can and then my mending pile grows, until I finally get to it and then spend a whole week sewing, cursing, crying and finally being happy that I did it ^^
You shine in that dress! This illustrates to me that it doesn't matter what the garment looks like if it matches the wearer. You've inspired me to try garment making for myself again!
Oooh yes, love the idea of a matching headband or scarf! Some little fabric button earrings would be cute too.
With everyone picking up crafting hobbies and learning to sew i wish there was a larger awareness of the harm of fabric production on the earth
Despite all the mistakes, Leena, you did one thing right and that is *~using a busy print that hides all the mistakes~*
I've been sewing for 50 years and I still get to unpick mistakes!
Me coming into this video not expecting a book rec. Also me pausing this video to add the library of the unwritten to my story graph tbr
As an amateur/hobbyist sewer, this video is equally relatable and inspiring. I just altered a t-shirt to make the sleeves shorter and it was also an ordeal.
The extra fabric would make a really cute matching belt, I think! (also yes to a matching mask and headband)
you could make a fabric belt out of the leftover fabric so that you have the option of cinching in when you want to 🤓👗
your grey wall looks like an olan mills photography background and i stan that nostalgia.
as a seamstress of 20 years thanks for pointing out how freaking hard it is. hard on your eyes, your back, and requires intense sustained concentration. in my peak i might jave zipped three or four of these out in a day. yeesh.
I am so proud of you! I’m a costume designer and the first time I sewed something, I made a one-legged unitard 😖. It was supposed to have two, it’s fine. Patience is key 🥹💗
Fabric widths are really variable. There are several more standard sizes, but it's generally something you have to check while buying. It's not a country-by-country thing.
My understanding of bias binding was that it existed because you can easily hem a straight line but hemming a curve is incredibly difficult because the bit you are folding in is either bigger or smaller than the bit you are folding it onto. By using a separate piece of fabric that naturally stretches around the curves you can much more easily seal in the raw edge. Hemming your fabric stops it from fraying whether it's on the straight or on the bias!
Awesome, you did a great job! I don't think I would add cinch, I might rather just do a belt honestly so you keep all your options open. I find darts can be tricky and I personally don't like unpicking them in cotton as it tends to leave marks.
i find alot of the fabric i use for sewing projects in charity shops in the form of bedsheets or even donated fabric bolts, i'd love a video where you vlog the journey of finding fabric for your project and maybe even let the fabric you find (amount, print & thickness) determine what next easy pattern/project you try!
Leena, I'm super proud of you! I'm in the same boat, teaching myself to sew and struggling hardcore, unpicking a lot of things, cursing bias binding, and gathering stitches and crying etc.
Now in my next shopping trip I'm going to cave and buy a bias binding maker because you gave me permission to (my homemade bias binding has been tragic so I've bought it when I've needed it).
A headband or mask would be super cute! The whole thing came out super cute and I love it. And maybe instead of adding darts or taking it in, just wear a chunky belt in an accent color or with a fun belt buckle so that way you have the option of it being more fitted or not.
I'm going to take a deep breath and work up the courage to finish the shorts I was working on. Just have to attach the waistband and that'll basically wrap it up but man did the pockets and the pleats take all my energy out as I had to redo it several times (and it's been about two weeks since I've picked it up to work on it)
Thank you for sharing!
pro tip, any time there's a side seam and the fabric isn't stretchy, add pockets :D
Your dress turned out great! Using a busy fabric with a dark base color hides a lot of mistakes, (though it can also be difficult to see what you're doing) so that's a great choice as a beginner. Another tip I always give is to search up "historical patterns" online (on YT for example), as for thousands of years most clothes were made out of rectangles and triangles and shaped using pleats and ruffles, as you did here. This saves on waste and also makes the pattern drafting A LOT easier. It is also easier to re-use those rectangular bits from garments, if need be, or alter the garment later on. But the most important tip is to always leave room for mistakes, be it in the seems, lengths or just in your mindset, as I find it is actually easier to learn through mistakes than by getting everything perfect on the first go (through mistakes you better understand how the fabric and seems behave, for example - like how Leena had trouble making the binding, as everything seemed to be the wrong way round at first)!
I really hope you continue on this journey. Starting with a jacket was very ambitious! I've been making my own clothes for a little over a year now, my limbs are long, my waist is my largest diameter and most clothes are not designed for that, making my own clothes allows me to get exactly what I want.
Fabric comes in different widths in all countries, usually one starts with a pattern and then buys enough length of fabric (as stated on the pattern) to cut out the pieces on the correct grainline regardless of the width, however that could result in a lot of waste for this dress you've made.
A mistake you probably don't even know you've made but is important to know going forward is that cutting the pieces rotated like you did will impact how the dress maintains (or rather doesn't maintain) its shape as you wash and wear it. Do a bit of reading about grainlines and it'll mean in future your clothes last longer. Many fast fashion items do not care about grainlines and it leads to those t-shirts that twist around.
Well done on making your first garment! Just a quick tip, if you try and cinch the waist in permanently with stitches, you won’t be able to get the dress on as it needs to go over your shoulders and bust. You’ll need to make it close another way. I’d also say, don’t fall into the trap of thinking that “zero waste” patterns are where you should be, if you don’t like weird boxy shapeless garments, they are all going to be wasted because you won’t want to wear them. It’s better to make clothes you like and want to wear over and over again. There are quite a few projects out there for using scraps too - aka scrap busting! Happy to help you out with any sewing stuff, I’ve been sewing since 2016 😊🪡
Leena, that's such a lovely job, and it's your FIRST! And a DRESS! Mistakes are all part of the job, especially if you don't have someone teaching you first hand this stuff! I have my ex's mother teaching me about sewing clothes and it's really hard sometimes to find information on the Internet unless you already know what you're looking for.
For the fabric shrinking, it commonly happens with natural fibers and viscose BUT in general it's always best practice to wash any kind of fabric beforehand. This process should be done before selling the fabric, but it costs a lot and sometimes there are whole pieces of clothing who arrive in the shops without having never touched water before. (Had a best friend see one dress shrink *to ONE whole size* and it was a €70 dress, so ouch!)
As for the adjustements, it really depends on what you prefer! Darts give the dress a shape closer to that of your body, and a waist dart looks like a good solution for this dress. Alternatively, you can add belt loops on the side - but cotton as a fabric is kind of stiff and might not look as good as other fabrics could with this solution.
Yay! Another seamstres! Idea: Why not use the leftover strip of fabric to make a matching belt to tie around your waist? Could give the dress some different styling options! Love the fabric btw, so damn brilliant. I've recently started sewing myself and GODS I know the struggle! Just keep going and you will get better. Happy sewing! :D
I'm a pretty experienced sewer but every time I make something I have to look up about 5 different terms for things. Thank you for explaining bias binding because it actually makes sense to me now. I also didn't know bias tape makers were a thing, definitely getting one of those. Finally, I would suggest just adding a belt if you want to cinch it in - gives you more flexibility if you change size or just want to wear it loose one day.
Loved this in a similar way to how I love Rachel Maksy’s sewing projects. Bc anyone can give this a go! Thank You!
For woven fabrics like cotton, pinking shears are an easy way to prevent fraying close to your seams. Cut along the edge of your seam allowance (the little bit of fabric outside of your stitches) and the zig-zag teeth help to finish your seams and prevent fraying. I kind of think of it as the lazy way to finish your seams. It's really inexpensive and I use it in my projects all the time.
I think you could cinch it in with a belt instead of darts. Don't forget, it's not stretch material so if you add darts you may need to add a zipper or a keyhole opening so you can till pull it on over your head! You could also add ties on the sides and tie them in a bow in the back.
Oh Leena the leftover cabbage you have you could cut up into coleslaw (that's what the tiny fabric leftovers are called) are excellent for sustainable gift wrapping!
I recently picked up and upgraded my sewing machine after about a decade of not using it. So far I've made a few skirts, remade an old one plus made a sunflower print two piece which I adore. Current WIP is a reversable pinafore which I did not plan for properly. But I'm having so much fun working it all out.
I'm shit at following patterns and generally have been making my own which has turned out okay. My next challenge is following a proper sewing pattern to make a gingham summer dress.
I loved this video.
I can't quite articulate the multitude of reasons why right now. But it was really great.
I adore watching your sewing journey as a beginner myself. I think it works either way honestly. I feel like the boxy look would help a little more when it comes to air flow. Also something to keep in mind when altering is to still leave a little room if you're someone who tends to wash their clothes in super-hot water or dries them on high heat. While it won’t shrink as dramatically it will still shrink a little with cotton.
Oh wow, well done you! I started sewing because I don't want to buy fast fashion and my first projects were not as wearable as yours. And kudos to the character building, no way on earth I would have that patience! *insert applause*
Oh no the perils of making bias binding! I don't own a bias binding maker and persist in repeatedly burning my fingers!
I did not expect that audiobook to be one I actually knew... People never talk about things I know about!
I have so much love for this video Leena!! Congratulations on your first dress. What I wished I'd learned earlier in my sewing journey was that if you want your clothes to last a long time you HAVE TO finish your seams. Whether it's a hand felled hem (Bernadette banner can show you how), a pinked seam or a line of zig zag stitches or an inside bias bind, you will not regret it. I didn't even know about finishing seams when I started and later I said I would do it eventually but never got round to it. Now I finish my seams every time and everything I make feels so high quality (I mostly use French seams and hand felling) and lasts much longer!
Good on you! So here for this 🙌 If you're thinking to take in the bodice (darts / side seams), pin it and try on first to make sure it still goes over your head. I learnt this is why some garments need zips 🥲
Coming from someone whose last sewing attempt was 7th or 8th grade, you did a great job Leena! The fabric is really cute and I love your sewing machine!
Sewing is a small amount of joy after hours of swearing. I've been sewing for a couple years and i still make all these mistakes REGULARLY lol. When you pin something so carefully and then realise it's backwards - pure devastation. Every time i gather i forget to put the stitch length back for the next seam. EVERY. TIME. If you don't want to unpick it, just put the stitch length back and sew over the line again.
Also with gathering stitches, sew your seam between the two lines for the best look and the the threads can come out.
It is a fabulous dress! Love the fabric and low waste pattern 💕
To keep the option of wearing it loose, you could make a belt of the leftover fabric (or pick out colours from the dress) and make a fabric belt. Kinda like a long scrunchie without the scrounging. ☺️
I really felt for you. I took up sewing last year, was so chuffed when I finished my "thrift flip" (i need a UK equivalent term) chopping up and reassembling a men's shirt... A few hours later I realised you're supposed to "finish" the seam edges 🤷🏻♀️ anyway, I think a couple of darts would look great, and you can experiment with their width with pins
Congratulations! Your first dress is always a great project. Garment sewing is very intuitive in my opinion. I also tend to hem sleeves before inserting or gathering them.
Just so you're aware fabrics are available in many different widths depending on what you're buying. Traditionally silk is very narrow for example and knit fabrics tend to be really wide. I'm American but that seems to be true for most places. If you haven't yet, look into destash stores in your area. They sell bits designers couldn't use and they're available in lots of different sizes and materials. I will say don't use old thread. Old thread is very prone to snapping on you especially when gathering. Thread rots and your seams will be weaker if you use old threads.
For beginners I definitely feel like pinking shears are the way to finish many seams and for centuries raw edges were the thing. I personally like all enclosed seams which is stronger and a cleaner finish. I like French seams the most personally and while it seems intimidating it really isn't that hard. It just takes paying a bit of attention when you're doing the enclosing stem. It's honestly like sewing a seam twice just flipped in opposite directions if that makes sense?
I think you should check out Retro Claude here on UA-cam. You may enjoy her channel. She sews vintage styles but has lots of helpful tips and uses a lot of thrifted supplies. She's very relaxing to watch.
From another sewist you did a really great job! We all do some unpicking & make mistakes. As long as you have a wearable garment in the end I call it a win! I love the dress as it is and think it matches you aesthetic. If you want a cinch you can always belt it for some fun
If you wanted to take in the waistline a bit, the two easiest things to do would probably be to stitch down the seam allowance at the waist (probably fold it up towards the top so you don't catch the gathers on the skirt and sew towards the loose edge of the allowance to make a narrow channel) and run a thin elastic through it (you could still leave it looser than your actual waist measurement so it's keeps the flowy, not too tight vibe but brings it in a bit...and if you didn't like it, you could pull the elastic back out and leave the seam allowance stitched down, no harm no foul)...or you could make two longer fabric strips (they wouldn't have to be on the bias, but you could still use the bias makers to iron and fold them), unpick some of the stitches at waist on the side seams, slide one end of each strip into the opening in the seam, and sew the opening closed and maybe fold the other raw edge of the strip under on itself so it doesn't fray, and then you could tie those in the back and have the "cinch" be adjustable!
Hope that made sense! It's a lovely dress as-is, and that fabric is so cute!
you should definitely make shoe bows with the leftover fabric, they would be so cute!
This has to become a series I'm way too implicated and entertained by today's video🤩🤓
Colour me very impressed! My few forays into sewing have not turned out fantastically, I think a lack of patience has a lot to answer for.
The style makes me think of the twirly dresses from DOWK, I love it!
Also over here dealing with a COVID infection that won't go away 😮💨
With learning any new skill, the only way is to get into the thick of it and make all those mistakes! You did really well tackling this project!
Cute dress! Personally I'd leave it boxy and throw a belt on for the cinched waist look when you're feeling that vibe.
tip for making bias binding without the little metal thing. Iron it in half all the way through. (Measuring that is easy and doesn’t take much thought). Then open it up and fold both edges to the center line. It takes 2 passes but it’s a lot less frustrating then using a ruler.
Yay Leena!
Props to you for doing your first garment all by yourself and not having a sewing mentor there to walk you through the do's and don't and why the instructions are in the order they are. Also - now that you have done it once, if you make this pattern again you will almost certainly be able to do it 25-50% faster.
I was in sewing 4H as a preteen and I know some basics but it's been so long (and I have cats so cutting large pieces of fabric on my floor is not an option) that I am really nervous to try and do anything more than crop my t-shirts and do basic repairs.
keep the boxy and arty but when you decide to make another one, factor in those new ideas to that one.