How to CHANGE THE FORK OIL on a Motorcycle
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- In this video Fabien will show you how to CHANGE FORK OIL on your Motorcycle. This will improve you handling and the longevity of you suspension.
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Get your fork oil:
-----------------------------
(UK) Synthetic Castrol 10w 500ml: amzn.to/3DVyWcU
(US) Motul 10W 1litre: amzn.to/3DU3An0
#motorcycle #forkoil #suspension
Get your fork oil:
(UK) Synthetic Castrol 10w 500ml: amzn.to/3DVyWcU
(US) Motul 10W 1litre: amzn.to/3DU3An0
You might consider updating those old links. 👍
@OldDogZeroTricks cheers for letting me know
Amazing how sometimes you learn new things just by watching a simple 14 minute video. As an example, don't have a torque tool? Mark little ink dots on your bolts to know the correct position when tightening them back. Awesome tutorial Fabian, well done!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! 👍👍
Glad it was helpful. Overall I would still recommend a torque wrench…but in the other hand I’ve been using this method for years with no problems. Id say use the lines as a very good guide and mix it with a bit of care when tightening your the bolts 👍
I noticed the same and was about to leave the same comment! :D
@@FabMotorbikes It's a good 'ballpark' for the correct torque value, but it will not be correct. Many factors affect the torqueing of a fastener, and if you were to use a torque wrench, you would find that the marks you made previously do not actually align anymore...
@Oli-DP this is true!
Excellent tutorial. Very well explained, exactly the extra tips that you need as a beginner (observe the order of assembly etc.), everything important shown and - not a matter of course today - clearly spoken, so that you understand everything even as a continental European. :-) Thank you and good luck with your channel.
I put a little grease on the inner fork tube to lubricate the seal and work it back and forth. The stiction your are feeling will release quite a bit. Then wipe it off. Great video.
Great tip. Thank you
Great video, clear, well presented and recorded. Doing this on my CBF600 at moment.
Great! Thanks 🙏
Amazing video man, might not be the same bike but you gave a clear gist of it. Looking forward to working on my bike more now
Thank you. Glad it was useful. Hope all goes well with the work 👍
Great video and easily presented for us DIY mechanics. 👍
Thank you. Glad it was helpful
Thnx again Fabian for sharing. Next time I can do the oil change by myself 👊
No problem. Thank you. Glad it was helpful 👍
Nice video and very clear.
A few observations:
1) Although using weight on the back to hold the bike up will work, it's sensible, if possible, to put a block of wood or similar under the bottom of the downpipes, just to stop any expensive crunches if something goes wrong.
2) It's a good idea to use cable ties or string etc to hang the brakes from the handlebars, rather than letting them dangle from the pipes which aren't designed for that use.
3) It makes life easier if you do one leg at a time, so you don't need to worry about which one goes where at the end ;-)
4) When you're reassembling everything and put the wheel back on the axle, before you torque the triple tree bolts up entirely, bounce the bike up and down on the forks a couple of times just to make sure that everything is properly aligned as it's possible to have the forks slightly out of true which will affect the handling.
Keep up the great videos!
Thank you for watching! and I appreciate your feedback (they're also useful to other viewers too). That expensive crunch is something I've not yet experienced... but definitely worth mitigating. That sound would be horrifying!
Nice video, videos like yours give me the strength and patience to work on my bike on the parking lot, under the sky. In fact I despise that, I wish I had a garage but I don't trust any mechanics to do the work right.
I know the feeling. The worst is if I’m in the middle of doing work on the electrics and it starts to rain 😂
@@FabMotorbikes ....or you forgot some tool at home.
Very helpful content. Keep up with the good work bro 🤝🏻🔧
Thank you glad it was useful
very good explanation with simple steps and a good tutorial! Its only missing the information to make sure everything is aligned after the job since the forks may become not centred with the handlebar
Thank you 🙏 and yes I should have added this. Maybe a good idea for another video 👍
Great Tutorial! I have a 2001 FZ! I need todo
Thank you. You’ll notice the difference!
Wow! That is excellent guidance.
Thank you . Glad it was useful
Great vid mate... was thinking, you could just pour the oil you don't need out first into a kitchen scale set to millilitres and then you know what's left is pretty much the exact amount you need.... thank you Die Hard 3. Also, would putting the wheel spindle back in before tightening the triple clamp help with overall alignment? Loving the content mate!
Also works 👍
@@FabMotorbikes Assuming of course that there is exactly 500ml of oil in the container to start with... You should measure out exactly what you need to use for each fork. That way you KNOW it's right, regardless of what appears to be left in the container.
Good stuff. Nicely done.
Thank you
Good video mate
Thank you
12:51 You put your forks on incorrectly, but these things can happen. At least you corrected the error :)
Ah I can see what you mean. All that was needed was for the bottom half of the leg to be twisted. That bottom halfway can spin freely even with the legs secured in the bike. 👍👍
I take it the bottom part of the fork doesn't need to be aligned when reinserting as it rotates?
Correct. It rotates freely 👍
So any noticable changes on handling? I want to change fork oils on my CBR600FA. But it has preload and damping adjusters. I don’t know if it has any difference. Thanks for this helpful video though!
Definitely an improvement. I was starting to get a scary bouncy feeling, especially when leaning, due to the reduction dampening. And as my fork are non adjustable I rely on good quality fresh oil for all the dampening.
I believe the process extremely similar for your bike. The difference will be that the cap at the top and the internal components will be joined together and there for will not be pulled out. Instead you will slide the upper section of the leg down. Then you will be able to pour out the oil. 👍 I’d still recommend double checking with a shop manual too (e.g Haynes are very good >> amzn.to/312eZCN )
I have also a Fazer 600 s2, I love this bike with passion. The only "annoying" thing I've noticed so far is that the seat gets too hot especially in the summer due to the exhaust pipe right under it I guess. Do you experience the same? I were thinking to staple the bottom of the seat with a racing heat shield.
I do experience this and it’s very annoying in the summer. In winter it quite nice. I’ve not made any modifications yet but I think your heat sheild Idea is as good of an idea as they get. 👍
You excellent
Thank you
How often on average would you suggest it would be a good idea to changes the fork oil ?
I got a 2007 Suzuki 650 bandit and the oil seals are fine, dust seals do look old and are cracking, so I guess it have been a while since it had some service (if ever ?) I bought it in 2019 and been riding 30K miles on it and I have`t done anything to it since, so the oil (and the rest) is atleast 5 years old and most likely much older, handling seems fine, tho a bit on the soft side (it do have adjustment and I have set it on the standart setting 5 rings)
About every 2 years or 10,000 is a good move. You will notice the difference in handling. Changing the dust seals is really easy (relative to oil seals). So they are worth doing at the same time
@@FabMotorbikes Thanks a lot.
@@FabMotorbikes Btw
at the same time would it make any big different to change the springs to etc. ohlins progressive springs ?
@Uriel-Septim. I have never done this. But can be an option.
@@FabMotorbikes Yeah well, I was thinking, now that I would have it apart and the old springs out, that most likely is 17 years old I might as well put some new and better springs back in.
Hi Fabian, so there goes 450ml x 2 of oil, right?
Yes 👍
Video nice bro
Thank you 😊
At what Milage would it be Prudent. To Change the Fork Oil
On a Road Bike ?
Every 10 - 15k miles. However, other factors such as aggressive use or weather can mean earlier.
You can also feel when they’re not quite as well dampened as they once were
@@FabMotorbikes thanks 👍
I ride a z650 not a Heavy Bike
Not riidden in winter ..so I will do the job at 12,000 miles
Great sounds good. Thank you for watching
Almost 1000 🤞
So close! 🤣 thank you
Does anyone know why motorbike forks don't have a drain plug in the bottom of each fork? It would make this a lot easier.
I think I have seen this before on some bikes. But it’s very rare. And useful
If my bikes forks suspension is minimal is that because the oil needs changed?
What do you mean by minimal?
@FabMotorbikes I can feel every thing on the road. Forks only have a little bit of sponge it's stiff pretty much
If your forks are adjustable, check if they are not at there hardest setting. Also check the general movement of them with the front wheel off the ground if possible. Finally your fork oil may be too thick, restricting the speed of the dampening.
@FabMotorbikes it's just a standard fork no settings it's a cbr 125 2012 and has 50k milage. Bloody thing has even gave me carpel tunnel from the vibrations lolz
Hey can i go for liqui moly 15w on a bike that has very low weight.
Overall I would recommend looking up the manufacturer recommendations and stick with that. Boring answer I know 😂
@@FabMotorbikes that's the issue they don't recommend any. They just wrote 162ml needed not the grade. On youtube everyone's using 20w but they have used very cheap oil so I guess the oil will lose it's viscosity anyways so not going with 20w(cheap oil) and use 15w but it's actually good synthetic oil and liqui moly doesn't have 20w so 15wLiqui moly should be the right choice.
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