Hello, thank you for the video. My husqvarna YTH 24K54 is brand new, maybe 30 hours as I bought it Sept, 2020. This weekend, my granddaughter ran over several soft sided water hoses. I have taken off deck, cleaned all the blades from tightly woven hose wrap above the blades. Reinstalled deck, belt, got a very small lawn cut, headed to larger lawn in back yard. Went to engage blades, now sparks are flying out of pto clutch and it’s too hot to touch. Any ideas? I do believe the pto clutch has been damaged. Ugh
Hey buddy thank you for the video. It is super helpful! My question is do you have to take the deck off to do this? Can you just release the tension on the deck belt and do this? Thank you!
Hi thanks for the video. So the scraping noise of the un-energized clutch, what exactly is happening in there ? Is there a bearing or something that needs replacing or what ?? I have a YTH2548XP and it does the same thing. Does this mean my clutch is on the way out ??
There is a way to properly "gap" the clutch. It wouldn't work for this unit. If this was my tractor, I wouldn't mind so much. However, I couldn't give it back to my friend that way. It may last for years that way. I wouldn't bother with it until it starts blowing fuses. Thanks for watching.
This is exactly what I've been trying to figure out thanks for the vid and answering questions! Can you do a vid on properly gapping the clutch? My yth24v48 squeaks just when the deck is engaged and when I move the blades while it's off I looked at it and see two pieces of metal seemingly just rubbing together and immediately thought crap I need to figure out what that part is and get it ordered because I can't not mow twice a week lol. Thanks again!
Oh, and torque that bolt on the install. Most are around 50 ft. lb, check yours to be sure. Too tight and you bind the clutch and shorten the life. Zip tie slack in the cable, too.
There is a diode across the coil winding of the clutch electromagnet. the diode eliminates the electromagnetic kickback pluse from causing damage to the contacts of the deck on off engage switch. The diode could be shorted causing the 0 ohm reading on your meter. The clutch is polarity is very important. Hooking the wires up backwards can short out the diode
My Husqvarna lawn tractor has the manual clutch. Aside from hooking up the wired connector, is there any other difference in removing and installing the new PTO clutch? I keep reading about the crank shaft moving, which makes it difficult to remove that 5/8” bolt…???
@@RealManSkills Hmmm….my parts list calls it a ‘clutch noram’. It apparently does the same thing as the electric ones, engaging the PTO so that the blades turn…????
Hey boy... I'm looking at this repair on my Husqie too which is how I found you... looks easier than I expected. I like your hoist apparatus. Can you drop me a photo of what the top bar with the pully looks like? Thanks for the video and anything else.
You’re the only person to have any video on this mower I can find. I have this exact same one. I’m having a “ going issue “. Like when I have the pedal all the way engaged, it will go fast for a few seconds and then slow down for a few seconds. Back and forth. Not really sure what to do. If you have any advice I’d greatly appreciate it.
Is the engine going fast then slow or the transaxle? If the engine, probably carburetor related. If the transaxle is the trouble, it's pricey to replace. I haven't had any luck replacing the oil in those transaxles.
While at full throttle, with the pedal engaged completely, while at max speed, will slow down for a few seconds and then pick right back up and go full speed. Carb is clean, air filter is new. Spark plugs are new.
Thank you for the great video! I have a YTH 24V48 and my mower deck would not engage after some major use on heavy grass/brush. The PTO button produced a small noise but no engagement. I noticed my belt had come off the clutch pulley so I pulled the entire deck to clean etc. I rechecked the clutch/pulley without the deck but it still would not engage/rotate. Should the clutch/pulley engage without the deck in place? After watching your video, I checked the PTO clutch on my meter and had 4.8 ohms without pulling the clutch out. The PTO switch is good per the meter. The 4.8 is over your range. Could this indicate a bad PTO? My son was using the mower and got too aggressive and I think he clogged up the deck, probably causing the blades to jamb and perhaps damaged the clutch.. Any feed back would be most appreciated.
@Ron Pleake I had to replace the PTO clutch even though the ohms checked out per this video. I have not done an autopsy to see what happened inside the burned up clutch.
@@StrikerBait Here is a quote from a service manual regarding PTO clutches - "If the meter reads significantly above or below 4.0 amps, there may be a shorted coil, faulty switch or battery causing the problem." The OGURA PTO clutch in the video has resistance specs that range from 2.8 to 3.2 OHMS. Another quote from the service manual - "The clutch assembly should be kept free from debris buildup. Debris can act as a blanket, not allowing heat to dissipate properly. Buildup in the pulley can also cause belt slippage, increasing heat, and decreasing belt life and blade stop time." Thanks for watching.
My red/black wiring to the the clutch was pulled out of the wiring clamps that feed into the green wires from the clutch. So now I have one loose black and one loose red wire as those two wires were pulled out of the wiring clamp. Does it matter which red or black wire goes into the greens? Kind of hard to tell now
I need to replace the wires end and plug on my electric clutch that got damaged. Do you know if they sell terminals and new plug that I could crimp on the old wires? I would try and find a trashed one that I could just cut off the wires, though seems like no one sell a cheap junk one, unless you still have your old one? And, do you know if they sell just the part the electrical wire goes to where you could take it apart and just replace the coil magnet part so it's cheaper? Thanks.
You can replace the plugs with anything that works for you. Buy one male and one female and make it work. Regarding the magnet parts, I have never seen them sell just the parts. But I am not a professional (I just do this in my spare time).
@@RealManSkills I was looking around, and I see they make adapters wire harnesses I guess to connect aftermarket clutches with the factory wiring. And so I could use that and cut the wires, and I'd have to get some wire to make it longer and crimp it onto the clutch to replacing the bad wire/connector on the clutch. From pictures online, it looks like my plug is a black L shaped plug. Some leaves caught on fire from the exhaust and it melted the wiring harness.
@@RealManSkills From looking up the part number and looking at pictures, it looks like my clutch has a black plastic plug in an "L" shape like the one you should on the table in this video. And from looking around, I so happened to notice that the headlight wire harness uses the same exact plug. So I think I'll just buy a used headlight harness, cut the wires, and then use parallel butt connectors and connect them to the wire coming out of the clutch. As part of the wire/plug had melted from a brief fire. And then use heatshrink tubing to cover up the individual wires.
I have. YTA 24V28 the clutch pulley turns when pto is engaged and continues to turn when pto is disengaged. I have the blade belt removed and the pulley is turning under power weather engaged or disengaged , it is making the grinding sound when disengaged. Just wondering if that is a possible a clutch can fail and stay in the engaged position at all times.
You could use a strap wrench on the flywheel or you could remove the spark plug and push a length of soft rope into the hole (leave a little out to remove when you're done). The rope in the cylinder will "bind up" the piston and prevent the shaft from spinning. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO SPIN THE ENGINE WHILE THE ROPE IS IN THERE>
my clutch looks different than yours. I have the same model. hmmm. my is square yours is triangular and so are the illistrated replacement parts on Partstree. did they make a change? i have a YTH24V48. THE clutches look a little different. hmmmm. the part number on the clutch I removed says 53594500, any experts can shed some light on this?
How can you tell if you electrical clutch is counter rotation or not? Does it say? My wires/plastic plug part on mine got damaged, so am trying to fix it for cheap since the clutch is still good.
IF you are still there.....I tried to remove my clutch assembly but the clutch spins when attempting to remove the nut. I can't seem to find anything to jam the clutch from spinning when trying to get the nut off, any suggestions?
One way is to remove the spark plug. Then feed some clothesline rope or other soft rope into the spark plug hole. Slowly turn the crank until the piston stops (because the rope is stopping it from within).
Replaced PTO but don't believe I got the bolt tight enough shaft keeps turning , I've had to tighten it up twice. IE: Ran mower how do tighten bolt without a air impact
1) I've used a vise grip pliers clamped to the drive pulley. The pliers keeps the pulley from spinning. 2) Maybe put the tractor in gear with the brake off. Hopefully, the transaxle will hold the engine tight enough to tighten the bolt. 3) Another way is to remove a spark plug, and put a soft rope in the cylinder. The rope will prevent the engine from turning over all the way. When finished, carefully remove the rope and replace the spark plug.
@@RealManSkills thanks for the help going to use locking vise grips on pulley shaft and when installing bolt new lock washer and a little dab of thread lock think that will do it?
can somebody help me i have a husqvarna 52” when i engage the automatic blades i pulled the switch and a squeaky noise comes out of it every time i engage the blades ? can some body help me figure this out
@@RealManSkills yes the blades turn on good when engaged and it cuts good but every time i want to reverse and turn the blades again the sound come out do you think that’s what it is ? ?
@@ab-tm4lx I don't think that it's anything catastrophic. Just pulleys and belts engaging and getting up to speed. Try to clean any grass off the deck and lube up the pulleys. The spindles may have grease zerks. If so, add some grease.
I just had the exact same thing happen to my Husqvarna and i too thought it was the clutch but it turned out to be the solenoid. Which sucked because i had dropped the clutch and that is a bitch to get back on. But i did.. seriously it was the solenoid.
@@RealManSkills i am diagnosing my YTH2242 electrical path to look for a short that is showing on my ohmmeter. the PTO looks good. The owners manual parts list does not show a solenoid listed on it, maybe due to manufacture year? i will let you know what i find out
My problem EXACTLY thank you, thank you--- excellent repair video !!!!
Thank you very much! Happy to help!
Excellent. I have this happening to mine. Now I’m gonna order a clutch
Thanks for watching!
I was replacing the sump gasket. Installed the PTO and I have space between the the PTO and the pulley. Does the main pulley free flow?
Wow that was... Significantly easier than I though it would be, Im taking the engine off of a 2005 gth2448t, and sticking onto an old dynamark frame.
Hope it all goes well. Thanks for watching!
Hello, thank you for the video. My husqvarna YTH 24K54 is brand new, maybe 30 hours as I bought it Sept, 2020. This weekend, my granddaughter ran over several soft sided water hoses. I have taken off deck, cleaned all the blades from tightly woven hose wrap above the blades. Reinstalled deck, belt, got a very small lawn cut, headed to larger lawn in back yard. Went to engage blades, now sparks are flying out of pto clutch and it’s too hot to touch. Any ideas? I do believe the pto clutch has been damaged. Ugh
Yep, something else got damaged.
Look at the schematic wiring diagram on the 24v28. it shows a diode across the coil windings of the mower deck clutch
Hey buddy thank you for the video. It is super helpful! My question is do you have to take the deck off to do this? Can you just release the tension on the deck belt and do this? Thank you!
You might be able to squeeze it out of there. The front drag rod for the deck, might be in the way. Thanks for watching.
Great video. Just wanted to know where did you purchase the PTO clutch from and what was the price?
I got it from Amazon - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WZ3CWL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It was $147. Thanks for watching.
Hi thanks for the video. So the scraping noise of the un-energized clutch, what exactly is happening in there ? Is there a bearing or something that needs replacing or what ?? I have a YTH2548XP and it does the same thing. Does this mean my clutch is on the way out ??
There is a way to properly "gap" the clutch. It wouldn't work for this unit. If this was my tractor, I wouldn't mind so much. However, I couldn't give it back to my friend that way.
It may last for years that way. I wouldn't bother with it until it starts blowing fuses. Thanks for watching.
This is exactly what I've been trying to figure out thanks for the vid and answering questions! Can you do a vid on properly gapping the clutch? My yth24v48 squeaks just when the deck is engaged and when I move the blades while it's off I looked at it and see two pieces of metal seemingly just rubbing together and immediately thought crap I need to figure out what that part is and get it ordered because I can't not mow twice a week lol. Thanks again!
Oh, and torque that bolt on the install. Most are around 50 ft. lb, check yours to be sure. Too tight and you bind the clutch and shorten the life. Zip tie slack in the cable, too.
There is a diode across the coil winding of the clutch electromagnet. the diode eliminates the electromagnetic kickback pluse from causing damage to the contacts of the deck on off engage switch. The diode could be shorted causing the 0 ohm reading on your meter. The clutch is polarity is very important. Hooking the wires up backwards can short out the diode
My Husqvarna lawn tractor has the manual clutch. Aside from hooking up the wired connector, is there any other difference in removing and installing the new PTO clutch? I keep reading about the crank shaft moving, which makes it difficult to remove that 5/8” bolt…???
If you have a manual clutch, you don't have a PTO clutch. Just a pulley that turns the drive belt and deck belt.
@@RealManSkills Hmmm….my parts list calls it a ‘clutch noram’. It apparently does the same thing as the electric ones, engaging the PTO so that the blades turn…????
how to hook spring to the clutch
Hey boy... I'm looking at this repair on my Husqie too which is how I found you... looks easier than I expected. I like your hoist apparatus. Can you drop me a photo of what the top bar with the pully looks like? Thanks for the video and anything else.
ua-cam.com/video/XrUO9qCSde0/v-deo.html
You’re the only person to have any video on this mower I can find. I have this exact same one. I’m having a “ going issue “. Like when I have the pedal all the way engaged, it will go fast for a few seconds and then slow down for a few seconds. Back and forth. Not really sure what to do. If you have any advice I’d greatly appreciate it.
Is the engine going fast then slow or the transaxle? If the engine, probably carburetor related. If the transaxle is the trouble, it's pricey to replace. I haven't had any luck replacing the oil in those transaxles.
While at full throttle, with the pedal engaged completely, while at max speed, will slow down for a few seconds and then pick right back up and go full speed. Carb is clean, air filter is new. Spark plugs are new.
Thank you for the great video!
I have a YTH 24V48 and my mower deck would not engage after some major use on heavy grass/brush.
The PTO button produced a small noise but no engagement.
I noticed my belt had come off the clutch pulley so I pulled the entire deck to clean etc.
I rechecked the clutch/pulley without the deck but it still would not engage/rotate.
Should the clutch/pulley engage without the deck in place?
After watching your video, I checked the PTO clutch on my meter and had 4.8 ohms without pulling the clutch out.
The PTO switch is good per the meter.
The 4.8 is over your range. Could this indicate a bad PTO?
My son was using the mower and got too aggressive and I think he clogged up the deck, probably causing the blades to jamb and perhaps damaged the clutch..
Any feed back would be most appreciated.
@Ron Pleake I had to replace the PTO clutch even though the ohms checked out per this video. I have not done an autopsy to see what happened inside the burned up clutch.
@@StrikerBait Here is a quote from a service manual regarding PTO clutches - "If the meter reads significantly above or below 4.0 amps, there may be a shorted coil, faulty switch or battery causing the problem." The OGURA PTO clutch in the video has resistance specs that range from 2.8 to 3.2 OHMS. Another quote from the service manual - "The clutch assembly should be kept free from debris buildup. Debris can act as a blanket, not allowing heat to dissipate properly. Buildup in the pulley can also cause belt slippage, increasing heat, and decreasing belt life and blade stop time." Thanks for watching.
Wow thus saved me from buying another lawnmower. Thank you
Happy to help! Thanks for watching!
Does the new clutch come pre-gapped, or did that piece of paper tell you the gap between the plates?
That unit worked properly out of the box. The paper was not very informative.
A bit of oil or grease on the shaft and retaining bolt would be advisable
My red/black wiring to the the clutch was pulled out of the wiring clamps that feed into the green wires from the clutch. So now I have one loose black and one loose red wire as those two wires were pulled out of the wiring clamp. Does it matter which red or black wire goes into the greens? Kind of hard to tell now
I couldn't tell you off hand, but you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right the first time. Let me know.
I need to replace the wires end and plug on my electric clutch that got damaged. Do you know if they sell terminals and new plug that I could crimp on the old wires? I would try and find a trashed one that I could just cut off the wires, though seems like no one sell a cheap junk one, unless you still have your old one?
And, do you know if they sell just the part the electrical wire goes to where you could take it apart and just replace the coil magnet part so it's cheaper? Thanks.
You can replace the plugs with anything that works for you. Buy one male and one female and make it work. Regarding the magnet parts, I have never seen them sell just the parts. But I am not a professional (I just do this in my spare time).
@@RealManSkills I was looking around, and I see they make adapters wire harnesses I guess to connect aftermarket clutches with the factory wiring. And so I could use that and cut the wires, and I'd have to get some wire to make it longer and crimp it onto the clutch to replacing the bad wire/connector on the clutch. From pictures online, it looks like my plug is a black L shaped plug. Some leaves caught on fire from the exhaust and it melted the wiring harness.
@@RealManSkills From looking up the part number and looking at pictures, it looks like my clutch has a black plastic plug in an "L" shape like the one you should on the table in this video. And from looking around, I so happened to notice that the headlight wire harness uses the same exact plug. So I think I'll just buy a used headlight harness, cut the wires, and then use parallel butt connectors and connect them to the wire coming out of the clutch. As part of the wire/plug had melted from a brief fire. And then use heatshrink tubing to cover up the individual wires.
I believe you over tighten the used and new clutch should have been done with a Torque wrench 55 pounds
I have. YTA 24V28 the clutch pulley turns when pto is engaged and continues to turn when pto is disengaged. I have the blade belt removed and the pulley is turning under power weather engaged or disengaged , it is making the grinding sound when disengaged. Just wondering if that is a possible a clutch can fail and stay in the engaged position at all times.
I haven't seen that myself but certainly sounds like a bad PTO clutch.
@@RealManSkills I figured that pto clutch out it was the barring on the clutch side .
Thanks Couch
Using a socket wrench to remove clutch the crankshaft .turns too. Hhow do you stop that?
You could use a strap wrench on the flywheel or you could remove the spark plug and push a length of soft rope into the hole (leave a little out to remove when you're done). The rope in the cylinder will "bind up" the piston and prevent the shaft from spinning. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO SPIN THE ENGINE WHILE THE ROPE IS IN THERE>
02:50 - I had NO idea you could lean a mower back that far.
Oil...gas...adult beverages...trans oil...
Does it smoke when you start it later ?
All good!
Nice job with video.
Thank you!
Thanks brother, mine did the exact same thing
Happy to help!
She cranked up with the new part off Amazon + new fuel and air filter- running better than new 😉
@@knoxvillerecreation2936 Terrific!
Could a bad clutch cause a tractor to run poorly when the deck is engaged while it runs fine without the deck engaged?
I think so.
my clutch looks different than yours. I have the same model. hmmm. my is square yours is triangular and so are the illistrated replacement parts on Partstree. did they make a change? i have a YTH24V48. THE clutches look a little different. hmmmm. the part number on the clutch I removed says 53594500, any experts can shed some light on this?
If your clutch has those numbers, and it came from the factory that way, I suggest that you stay with that number.
So did you get an off brand one? Is there a switch under the seat? Thanks
Yes, I bought a Rotary brand clutch from Amazon back in 2020. And yes, there is a switch under the seat. Thanks for watching.
@@RealManSkills thanks so much.
Rocking roll 🤙TY for sharing 😀
Thank you for watching!
Are all YTH series clutches the same ?? Thanks
I can't say for sure, but probably not. Many manufacturers use the same stuff but things also change from year to year.
Always remove the battery when you tilt one that far back.
Some PTO's are counter rotation, some are not. Got to be sure before swapping parts.
How can you tell if you electrical clutch is counter rotation or not? Does it say? My wires/plastic plug part on mine got damaged, so am trying to fix it for cheap since the clutch is still good.
my mower deck won't start at all... my tractor runs fine but the deck just won't even crank up.. suggestion?
Bad switch? Loose wire? Bad PTO clutch?
I cut the belt off first before removing the bolt on the PTO now the top spins when I try taking off the bottom bolt . How can I do it now?
Impact driver might do it, or put a vise grip on the pulley or shaft.
Jovan, i had same problem. Impact wrench does the trick. Borrow 1 if u have to and air compressor....easy with these.
Excellent!
Thank you!
IF you are still there.....I tried to remove my clutch assembly but the clutch spins when attempting to remove the nut. I can't seem to find anything to jam the clutch from spinning when trying to get the nut off, any suggestions?
Maybe a locking pliers (Visegrip) on the pulley.
When I try to remove the bolt, the entire shaft turns. How do I prevent that?
Yes, I am
Having the same problem? Any solutions yet?
are you gonna clean that grass out from your steering section?
I don't remember if I did. This video is a couple years old now.
When I try to remove the bolt on the clutch, the entire shaft turns. How do I prevent that?
One way is to remove the spark plug. Then feed some clothesline rope or other soft rope into the spark plug hole. Slowly turn the crank until the piston stops (because the rope is stopping it from within).
Replaced PTO but don't believe I got the bolt tight enough shaft keeps turning , I've had to tighten it up twice.
IE: Ran mower how do tighten bolt without a air impact
1) I've used a vise grip pliers clamped to the drive pulley. The pliers keeps the pulley from spinning. 2) Maybe put the tractor in gear with the brake off. Hopefully, the transaxle will hold the engine tight enough to tighten the bolt. 3) Another way is to remove a spark plug, and put a soft rope in the cylinder. The rope will prevent the engine from turning over all the way. When finished, carefully remove the rope and replace the spark plug.
@@RealManSkills thanks for the help going to use locking vise grips on pulley shaft and when installing bolt new lock washer and a little dab of thread lock think that will do it?
@@terryevans9067 I personally wouldn't use thread lock.
Where did you order the clutch from?
I got it from Amazon - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078WZ3CWL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@RealManSkills thank you
Do you know the part number so I can order the right one
Visit www.partstree.com.
Thanks
can somebody help me
i have a husqvarna 52”
when i engage the automatic blades i pulled the switch and a squeaky noise comes out of it every time i engage the blades ? can some body help me figure this out
Does the squeaky noise go away after a few moments? Might need to lube the deck pulleys.
@@RealManSkills yes the blades turn on good when engaged and it cuts good but every time i want to reverse and turn the blades again the sound come out do you think that’s what it is ? ?
@@ab-tm4lx I don't think that it's anything catastrophic. Just pulleys and belts engaging and getting up to speed. Try to clean any grass off the deck and lube up the pulleys. The spindles may have grease zerks. If so, add some grease.
Where is the fuse located?
Usually when you open the hood, it's on the right side under the dash somewhere.
I have the same mower thanks
Thanks for watching!
This was a helpful video for me.
Thanks for watching!
I just had the exact same thing happen to my Husqvarna and i too thought it was the clutch but it turned out to be the solenoid. Which sucked because i had dropped the clutch and that is a bitch to get back on. But i did.. seriously it was the solenoid.
Solenoids are something that I keep in stock. They need replacing more often than pto clutches. Thanks for watching!
@@RealManSkills i am diagnosing my YTH2242 electrical path to look for a short that is showing on my ohmmeter. the PTO looks good. The owners manual parts list does not show a solenoid listed on it, maybe due to manufacture year? i will let you know what i find out
I hit the PTO with 12volts to test them
Scraping sound is the three bolts that hold it together need ajusted
I think that I still have it. May use it on a future project.