First time I’ve seen your videos and I’m impressed. Thank you for doing a great rc technical video with actual reasoning not just “it feels better”. Keep it up!
I might be the only one, but I'd love to hear you talk about suspension geometry in a video, like how you mentioned front arms should be shorter. Awesome vids lately Razor, keep it up man keep it up!!
Thanks, basically the front end needs to provide steering while the rear only provides forward drive. The shorter front arms allows the front end to roll earlier and more quickly, to allow the front wheels to transfer weight and bite and steer. The longer rear arms makes the rear end more linear and smooth on acceleration so you can more easily roll on power acceleration without the rear end stepping out abruptly.
Another thing I did was I took the heatsink off of the Motor and added a healthy coating of White lithium heat sink past to transfer the heat extremely effectively to the heat spreader so that it cools the motor way way better!
Install the widemaxx kit it will eliminate 90% of the rollovers, especially the stupid rollovers where you really should not have rolled over. The widemaxx kit made the Maxx so much better I love it...
This is the information newby rcer's need, even some that are not so new. Bashing setup advice to get the most out your truck cheaply and easily. Had to laugh at the TSM rant. I 100% concur with your sentiments.
Trent Marlowe thanks, I also have a similar video for the Losi Tenacity Pro, but it came out before the Pro was released. Maybe I need to re-release it with a new marketing spin to reach all the new Tenacity Pro owners. 😀
@@RazorRC If you dial in the gyro it can actually make you a fantastic driver, but jumps etc will suffer. If I use a small amount of AVC on my Losi vehicles I can drift with them on Concrete. But I agree for most people gyros should be off.
Good filming and talking, good professional filming!👌🏽. Would like to correct two things. 1. To unscrew the shaft from the rodend is to make trouble, a hard basher would want to drill out the bottom of the rodend a bit more, and tighten down the shaft more than stock to prevent the shaft from breaking where the threads start. 2. One who want's the vehicle to drive good would never ever want thicker oil in the back than the rear. About 15% difference would be more right, like 60wt in the front and 45wt in the rear. This also helps ALOT against the rear kicking going off the face of a jump 👍🏽. Happy bashing! 😁🙌🏽.
On the preload, I just took the calipers on a brand new Maxx V2 and it appears the factory has it setup right out the box according to this recommendation. PF = 2.38 mm DF = 2.62 mm PR = 11.54 mm DR = 12.14 mm Note: the battery is on Driver side and more mm is stiffer so this makes sense.
Great video, thanks for the tips. I ended up going with 40wt in the rear an 30 up front. Glad I changed all the fluid, had some metal in one. My rear springs are adjusted right in the middle. On the front I set the ride height a little lower. I really like how it works for me just bashing around the yard. No more chassis slap from short drops.
Great info bud, but tsm is extremely useful, I find that this truck does not track forward in high speed, it tends to stray a bit left or right, but TSM corrects this issue, leave your tsm at the 9oclock position and you'll barely notice it on while you're driving, now my xmaxx is different, she barely needs TSM and tracks forward mostly on her own.
1) Time to replace the Traxxas connector with your EC3/5. You already modded it to the point where they probably wouldn't cover it under warranty. (with the screwed-in fan) 2) Re. TSM - It's nice when accelerating hard on loose surfaces; bad everywhere else. Just remember it for drag racing. I noticed that when turning, it limits the turn angle, but it also limits/corrects for oversteer. The trick is just remembering it when needed. 3) 9:00 re. "almost locked center diff" - Traxxas advertised something special about the center diff in this vehicle; suggested it's new tech. Was that a lie?
Great tips, wish I could buy these at the prices your quoting in some of your vids, in the UK we are taxed to hell and back, £650 Uk pounds for the wide max or Max 2 , that’s about $880, I need to move to the States, great tips by the way..👍☝️👏😁
It may be 'unbalanced' however its very predictable... this truck really comes down to driver experience and skill level. Of course you can tune it to your driving style.
I got one for Christmas and believe me you don't want one so much wrong with this truck just right out of the box stuff you can't fix yourself a arms just flop back and forth back and forth truck is totally uncontrollable I'm running just a 3s in it and it's still too much one of the front wheels flaps back and forth half inch now this is new out of the box so many parts that are loose and just flopping around too much to mention here but you definitely don't want this truck
Nice video! I've done almost the exact same changes minus turning out the rear shock rod ends which I will try next. I also plan on adding some real toe links to try a little toe out. I also don't want my rx's to handle like a cartoon!
I feel like the center diff is more of a personal choice thing, i actually like it being close to locked 😅 But i also run slipper clutches pretty much locked too, i like when the car can lift super easy. Obviously for racing and speed runs, a free diff is preferable
The Maxx doesn't have a slipper clutch. look in your manual for how to take it apart I didn't see anything that looked like one but the rustler slash ect have one. The xmaxx Maxx sledge udr xrt trx4s don't have one.
Very useful video , especially because the maxx is quite a handful to drive ! Also , where did you get that ec5 to traxxas id adaptor ? I want to use off brand batteries too but I don't want to void the warranty .
Thanks for the info. I replaced my servo on my Xmaxx and when truck is turned on and throttle is applied a little and let go the wheels start to turn on their own. I just may end up turning off the tsm.
Great video this is what I need but just one problem can you show me how to do the shock oil since I’m new or link to someone who does it maybe with the xmaxx, thanks again for this..taking in all this information and loving the process 👍🏼
I just purchased my Maxx. Of course I’m looking to get upgrades at the lowest cost possible. I have changed the rear shock oil to 45 weight, changed the shock position for the front shocks, I have ordered the wide kit and 1 million weight diff fluid for the center diff. I am looking for a another cvd option, if I have to spend $100 on Traxxas cvd’s, fine, but is there a less expensive option available. Btw, really enjoy your videos. You are more technical than most, and I have learned allot. Thanks.
My maxx came out the box with what it seems 50 percent power, its in profile 1, idk what the issue is and I hate the fact I have to send it to traxxas. Any advice?
So my v2 has tons of upgrades and has more weight then stock, cant get it to stop kicking up the rear. Heard someone mention if it does that without bottoming out you need thinner fluid. Im running 60wt back, zero preload and around 12mm springload.
Just checked in low speed with drops like waist high. I was wrong, it clearly slaps the chassi hard and when coming up again it makes the rear lift from the ground. I run 60wt rear, 50wt front. 12mm preload rear, 5mm front. Do i need heavier fluid, afraid to make it handle bad in terrain with to heavy fluid. Also would full rebound help out or just make it a bigger chance of blowing the shock.
Rad video! Helped a lot with my initial suspension setup. Hey does anyone know the piston diameter on the gt-maxx shocks? Traxxas won't tell me. I'm thinking that the 16mm MIP bypass pistons would go a long way towards fixing the suspension issues on this beast if they could be made to fit. Also FYI: if you change to low profile tires you have to upgrade to metal axles because the plastic ones will crack under the lateral load, especially on concrete. I have a suspicion that's why Traxxas made the stock outside sidewalls so high.
Just got my brand new widemaxx, was fully pinned down my street and just touched the brake and the maxx just cartwheels 30-40 metres horribly down the road, body went flying off and absolutely trashed the poor thing🙃
Good video overall. Thanks for the good tips. Just don’t like that you come across a little arrogant. Instead of telling people “learn to drive it” why don’t you suggest to practice more and eventually turn off the traction assist. Also I think you got wrong the whole geometry thing. This truck is designed for great wheelies and you guessed right, it’s great for that. You want something else, get something else, like a revo or slash. With that said, I appreciate all the input on setting it up for a better driving experience.
What car stand do you use and can you send me a link to where i can buy one because i have one but its ment for buggys and its annoying to work with.Thanks
Great video btw but I’m curious.... did you have the widemaxx kit on when you were talking about shock oil weights and all that. I don’t guess I could tell if it was in there or not but if you didn’t, would you still recommend the 30w oil in front with the stock rear springs in front as per the widemaxx instructions? I’m assuming that widemaxx kit or not, the bottom of the shocks works better in the lower holes closer to the wheels? What about the back shocks? There was supplied new springs for the back and Traxxas recommended 50w shock oil in the back so does that sound about right? Even the lengthening of the rear shocks by one and a quarter turn of the rod ends? Thanks.
Not trying to argue or say you’re wrong, but one would think that Traxxas went through many many different iterations for the Maxx in the prototype phase of design and testing. If their engineers settled on same length arms, same length shocks as the best way to bring the Xmaxx down to 1/10th scale, I’d think that the Traxxas engineers would kno a bit more about the rc design process than you.
They care about stuff that I don't, such as cheaper/easier parts compatibility. Same thing with the design flaws of the Slash/Stampede 2WD -- they used buggy front arms and front shocks to save money, even though they're too short.
Awesome video. You have so much rc knowledge. I was thinking of getting a maxx but was turned off after watching your videos about it. Does the x maxx 8s have the same issues as the maxx or is it a better truck overall and stability?
In my opinion, if I move the shock to the outer hole it lowers the truck by a little making less ground clearance. Now I didnt adjust the shaft like you said, but it doesn't make sense to go to a lower hole to make it have less chassis slap. Maybe I am not understanding 100% I have played with the spring tension and have found I like a couple spots, like you mentioned it depends on what you run in. Grassy areas I like mine a bit softer to get some body roll to handle the tight turns with out flipping, and gravel or loose dirt i like it a bit stiffer. I really think a huge help would be taller tires like someone else mentioned, or longer shocks and the stock tires? Thoughts?
charles gross there’s 2 problems at play here: the front shocks are longer than the rear, and the rear end slaps a lot. The ideal fix is to get longer rear shocks and unscrewing the eyelet helps a little bit, but barring that you need to shorten the front to keep it in balance with the rear. Longer front shocks exacerbates the rear end slapping because the longer shocks will lever the truck onto the rear when landing since they hit first.
So short answer is that you need the truck to land on all fours at the same time, and since you can’t lengthen the rears, you end up having to shorten the fronts.
Preload is more focused on ride height than soften or stiffen the suspension, harder springs is the way to go but don't know if there is any available. Refilling the shocks with thicker oil and hard springs to avoid chassis bottoming out is what I think it would work better, just my thoughts...
@@logitechz3 Preload will soften and stiffen the suspension if you have progressive springs. Your point would be valid only for linear springs. Thicker oil and springs would make the truck bounce around like a ball, so if all you are doing is crazy high jumps then it might help, otherwise with a monster truck you want a soft plush suspension. Also, harder springs could cause the rear to kick up off a jump.
This truck was designed for the widemaxx kit. Its intentionally unstable to make you buy the kit (and to keep rtr price down). Widemaxx completely fixes the handling along with thicker shock oil. Almost revo stable after upgrade.
@@popwall4297 wow. Sorry to hear that. I really enjoy mine. I bought it for hard bashing. Nothing busted yet. Check out Kevin Talbot videos. They beat the crap out of the Maxx and rarely ever do they break.
I have a question my Maxx hasn’t done a single wheelie or reached 50mph yet and I have the traxxas 5000 mah 4s battery and yes it’s in sport mode or the first mode NOT training mode can anyone help out it’s my 2nd day with it
just got mine this week and does the same thing. I called traxxas and now sending motor and esc back to traxxas. Just what I want to do after spending 600 bucks!?!
Just my opinion, but i want my truck to wheelie and you should modulate the brakes. This is not going to handle like a slash. The maxx is a monster truck for bashing and all around fun. It is not going to handle light and nimble.
I suggest trying without TSM to find your best medium. I use TSM on my 2wd truck only on the ground and since it's easy to turn on and off, it's worth experimenting. If I jump, no stability management applied. This isn't the 100% solve for flipping over / traction roll but may help.
Are you sure about the droop? When you lift one side of the truck up the front and rear tires come off the ground at the exact same time. Doesn't that mean the droop is the same?
Gotta give it to Traxxas... even guys like yourself that appreciate and would be better off with a totally tunable and bulletproof awesome e-buggy based monster truck like Tekno Mt410 cannot help themselves and purchase this truck.. It will never be something its NOT easily or cheaply. It is a truck that looks awesome, puts a smile on your face when you pull the trigger, that your mates are jealous of, with a good worldwide parts support... that's what Traxxas are about and why they are arguably #1 brand in the world... Awesome job getting people interested in the finer points of rc and your in-depth info... cheers
Invasion Nation and why would you come to a Traxxas video to tell us that? Respectfully I hope you and Arrma stay in your country, cause we didn’t ask for nor need either of you here😎
Invasion Nation I see. I’m just tired of coming to a Traxxas vid to see some arrma fanboy have let everyone know how he thinks Arrma is so much better than Traxxas. Arrma support and parts were I live is bleak to say the least.
First time I’ve seen your videos and I’m impressed. Thank you for doing a great rc technical video with actual reasoning not just “it feels better”. Keep it up!
I might be the only one, but I'd love to hear you talk about suspension geometry in a video, like how you mentioned front arms should be shorter. Awesome vids lately Razor, keep it up man keep it up!!
Thanks, basically the front end needs to provide steering while the rear only provides forward drive. The shorter front arms allows the front end to roll earlier and more quickly, to allow the front wheels to transfer weight and bite and steer. The longer rear arms makes the rear end more linear and smooth on acceleration so you can more easily roll on power acceleration without the rear end stepping out abruptly.
Another thing I did was I took the heatsink off of the Motor and added a healthy coating of White lithium heat sink past to transfer the heat extremely effectively to the heat spreader so that it cools the motor way way better!
That works?
Install the widemaxx kit it will eliminate 90% of the rollovers, especially the stupid rollovers where you really should not have rolled over. The widemaxx kit made the Maxx so much better I love it...
Great video. I just got mine yesterday and will try to implement most of these tips. Thank you for taking the time to make it.
This is the information newby rcer's need, even some that are not so new. Bashing setup advice to get the most out your truck cheaply and easily.
Had to laugh at the TSM rant. I 100% concur with your sentiments.
Trent Marlowe thanks, I also have a similar video for the Losi Tenacity Pro, but it came out before the Pro was released. Maybe I need to re-release it with a new marketing spin to reach all the new Tenacity Pro owners. 😀
@@RazorRC If you dial in the gyro it can actually make you a fantastic driver, but jumps etc will suffer. If I use a small amount of AVC on my Losi vehicles I can drift with them on Concrete. But I agree for most people gyros should be off.
Awesome explanation! This is why racers know how to set up RC's better than bashers! I wouldn't have though of half those tweaks 🤣🤣
Good filming and talking, good professional filming!👌🏽. Would like to correct two things.
1. To unscrew the shaft from the rodend is to make trouble, a hard basher would want to drill out the bottom of the rodend a bit more, and tighten down the shaft more than stock to prevent the shaft from breaking where the threads start.
2. One who want's the vehicle to drive good would never ever want thicker oil in the back than the rear. About 15% difference would be more right, like 60wt in the front and 45wt in the rear. This also helps ALOT against the rear kicking going off the face of a jump 👍🏽. Happy bashing! 😁🙌🏽.
The inner hole by the shock is for bashing outer hole is for hard surface like roads it's in the manual
On the preload, I just took the calipers on a brand new Maxx V2 and it appears the factory has it setup right out the box according to this recommendation.
PF = 2.38 mm
DF = 2.62 mm
PR = 11.54 mm
DR = 12.14 mm
Note: the battery is on Driver side and more mm is stiffer so this makes sense.
Haha, that’s awesome. I think Traxxas watches my videos very closely and sometimes makes changes based on them.
Great video, thanks for the tips. I ended up going with 40wt in the rear an 30 up front. Glad I changed all the fluid, had some metal in one. My rear springs are adjusted right in the middle. On the front I set the ride height a little lower. I really like how it works for me just bashing around the yard. No more chassis slap from short drops.
Great tuning tips! Fine tuning the droop and center diff was a nice touch.
Thanks, there are not a lot of adjustments on this truck, every little bit counts.
Great info bud, but tsm is extremely useful, I find that this truck does not track forward in high speed, it tends to stray a bit left or right, but TSM corrects this issue, leave your tsm at the 9oclock position and you'll barely notice it on while you're driving, now my xmaxx is different, she barely needs TSM and tracks forward mostly on her own.
1) Time to replace the Traxxas connector with your EC3/5. You already modded it to the point where they probably wouldn't cover it under warranty. (with the screwed-in fan)
2) Re. TSM - It's nice when accelerating hard on loose surfaces; bad everywhere else. Just remember it for drag racing. I noticed that when turning, it limits the turn angle, but it also limits/corrects for oversteer. The trick is just remembering it when needed.
3) 9:00 re. "almost locked center diff" - Traxxas advertised something special about the center diff in this vehicle; suggested it's new tech. Was that a lie?
Great tips, wish I could buy these at the prices your quoting in some of your vids, in the UK we are taxed to hell and back, £650 Uk pounds for the wide max or Max 2 , that’s about $880, I need to move to the States, great tips by the way..👍☝️👏😁
6:47 finaly sombody said it, i couldn't agree more
It would be great if you could look into the Sledge rear shock upgrade. If it's worth it, what configuration works best, etc.
It may be 'unbalanced' however its very predictable... this truck really comes down to driver experience and skill level. Of course you can tune it to your driving style.
If your a basher you just need to adjust the suspension with heavier shock oil and your all set
Exactly!! Lol this dude talking too much. My front oil 100wt back 80wt
Great tips. Still considering whether to pick one up!
I got one for Christmas and believe me you don't want one so much wrong with this truck just right out of the box stuff you can't fix yourself a arms just flop back and forth back and forth truck is totally uncontrollable I'm running just a 3s in it and it's still too much one of the front wheels flaps back and forth half inch now this is new out of the box so many parts that are loose and just flopping around too much to mention here but you definitely don't want this truck
Really well explained video , this has really helped mimes on order will watch it back so it’s the same
Nice video! I've done almost the exact same changes minus turning out the rear shock rod ends which I will try next. I also plan on adding some real toe links to try a little toe out.
I also don't want my rx's to handle like a cartoon!
Very good information.. Thanks bro!
Great tips 👍 thanks
great video! could you go over the geometry of the car and how adjustments effect it.
Maxx Davidson that’s on my todo list
thanks! i had all these problems video helped alot!
I just got my first maxx 4s it’s insane deadly..
Awesome content. This really helped.
I feel like the center diff is more of a personal choice thing, i actually like it being close to locked 😅
But i also run slipper clutches pretty much locked too, i like when the car can lift super easy.
Obviously for racing and speed runs, a free diff is preferable
The Maxx doesn't have a slipper clutch. look in your manual for how to take it apart I didn't see anything that looked like one but the rustler slash ect have one. The xmaxx Maxx sledge udr xrt trx4s don't have one.
@@Brayrfd1192 who said it had a slipper? 😂
@@ManuelOrtizification it's early and I misread your words I thought you said the Maxx had a slipper clutch
Very useful video , especially because the maxx is quite a handful to drive ! Also , where did you get that ec5 to traxxas id adaptor ? I want to use off brand batteries too but I don't want to void the warranty .
Thanks for the info. I replaced my servo on my Xmaxx and when truck is turned on and throttle is applied a little and let go the wheels start to turn on their own. I just may end up turning off the tsm.
Great video this is what I need but just one problem can you show me how to do the shock oil since I’m new or link to someone who does it maybe with the xmaxx, thanks again for this..taking in all this information and loving the process 👍🏼
Dan Berger this one is good, though I would remove the spring first before changing the oil ua-cam.com/video/1_d1nEquS6Y/v-deo.html
I just purchased my Maxx. Of course I’m looking to get upgrades at the lowest cost possible. I have changed the rear shock oil to 45 weight, changed the shock position for the front shocks, I have ordered the wide kit and 1 million weight diff fluid for the center diff.
I am looking for a another cvd option, if I have to spend $100 on Traxxas cvd’s, fine, but is there a less expensive option available.
Btw, really enjoy your videos. You are more technical than most, and I have learned allot. Thanks.
A bit late, but there is a cheaper option for the cvd's. GPM. I have them on my Widemaxx and they work perfect.
My maxx came out the box with what it seems 50 percent power, its in profile 1, idk what the issue is and I hate the fact I have to send it to traxxas. Any advice?
TSM is for racing and make it up as I go on the wheels to make it wider
My shock adjuster got stuck to the very top and I can't bring it down no matter how much strength I use
So my v2 has tons of upgrades and has more weight then stock, cant get it to stop kicking up the rear.
Heard someone mention if it does that without bottoming out you need thinner fluid. Im running 60wt back, zero preload and around 12mm springload.
zero preload? you need WAY more.
@@RazorRC
I was a bit tired and wrote wrong, i mean zero rebound. The preload is at 12mm rear and 5mm front.
Just checked in low speed with drops like waist high. I was wrong, it clearly slaps the chassi hard and when coming up again it makes the rear lift from the ground.
I run 60wt rear, 50wt front.
12mm preload rear, 5mm front.
Do i need heavier fluid, afraid to make it handle bad in terrain with to heavy fluid.
Also would full rebound help out or just make it a bigger chance of blowing the shock.
Rad video! Helped a lot with my initial suspension setup. Hey does anyone know the piston diameter on the gt-maxx shocks? Traxxas won't tell me. I'm thinking that the 16mm MIP bypass pistons would go a long way towards fixing the suspension issues on this beast if they could be made to fit. Also FYI: if you change to low profile tires you have to upgrade to metal axles because the plastic ones will crack under the lateral load, especially on concrete. I have a suspicion that's why Traxxas made the stock outside sidewalls so high.
Just got my brand new widemaxx, was fully pinned down my street and just touched the brake and the maxx just cartwheels 30-40 metres horribly down the road, body went flying off and absolutely trashed the poor thing🙃
First tip. Remove that servo. Second top. Widemaxx kit.
Seems like others are putting much height weight oils in the shocks. Like 70-100 wt oil. What is the adverse affect to that?
Thanks for the tips.
Do you think this video still applies to the new maxx v2? Different shocks, widemaxx kit from the factory, longer and wider chassis?
Super interesting video bro, thanks for this one and for your return
Awesome video man thank you 😊 do you have any idea of what a good tune would be with the widemaxx kit?
Good video overall. Thanks for the good tips. Just don’t like that you come across a little arrogant. Instead of telling people “learn to drive it” why don’t you suggest to practice more and eventually turn off the traction assist. Also I think you got wrong the whole geometry thing. This truck is designed for great wheelies and you guessed right, it’s great for that. You want something else, get something else, like a revo or slash. With that said, I appreciate all the input on setting it up for a better driving experience.
rewatching it yeah, that was unnecessary and insulting. my apologies.
@@RazorRC your a good man..
Great video thanks for the tips
What did you do to the esc fan? Great video , love your content💯
Once I turn mine maxx on it won't shut off with the switch on the esc why
@@craigknauss9250 cause Traxxas does some dumb stuff
Great setup tips👍👍. Bash on 😎😎
Great video and information 👍🏾
What car stand do you use and can you send me a link to where i can buy one because i have one but its ment for buggys and its annoying to work with.Thanks
Where can I get the heavier shock oil and lighter diff fluid?
bit.ly/3moatHf
Do you have a vid on what you did in the wheel hexs?
Those are the e-revo ones. 21.95 a set with nuts. Any color, blue red green anyway
What happens if front arms shorter than rear arms?
Great video btw but I’m curious.... did you have the widemaxx kit on when you were talking about shock oil weights and all that. I don’t guess I could tell if it was in there or not but if you didn’t, would you still recommend the 30w oil in front with the stock rear springs in front as per the widemaxx instructions? I’m assuming that widemaxx kit or not, the bottom of the shocks works better in the lower holes closer to the wheels? What about the back shocks? There was supplied new springs for the back and Traxxas recommended 50w shock oil in the back so does that sound about right? Even the lengthening of the rear shocks by one and a quarter turn of the rod ends? Thanks.
what hobbywing esc would be a good replacement for this truck? Thankyou
ive heard the max 8 w 2200kv motor is a good option
Xr8+ with 1900kv is legit
could i go 30wt. in the front and 60wt. in the back? or possibly 30wt. in the front and 40wt. in the back?
Not trying to argue or say you’re wrong, but one would think that Traxxas went through many many different iterations for the Maxx in the prototype phase of design and testing. If their engineers settled on same length arms, same length shocks as the best way to bring the Xmaxx down to 1/10th scale, I’d think that the Traxxas engineers would kno a bit more about the rc design process than you.
They care about stuff that I don't, such as cheaper/easier parts compatibility. Same thing with the design flaws of the Slash/Stampede 2WD -- they used buggy front arms and front shocks to save money, even though they're too short.
figure this one out go forward goes backwards but no brakes
Great tips thanks...
Dont believe i have seen one video on UA-cam with a before and after video with thinner center diff fluid.
People wanna see the difference.
Nice tips bro 👍
Awesome video. You have so much rc knowledge. I was thinking of getting a maxx but was turned off after watching your videos about it. Does the x maxx 8s have the same issues as the maxx or is it a better truck overall and stability?
C a .j m ..
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Does anyone know where he got that plug adapter seen in the video
just solder a new connector
100w oil all around and gold springs
Love the videos man, subbed
thats all you use? 70front 80back and it still slaps.
yours doesn't with 40/50
i doesnt go crazy at all, arnt many jumps near me lol
Good commentary
In my opinion, if I move the shock to the outer hole it lowers the truck by a little making less ground clearance. Now I didnt adjust the shaft like you said, but it doesn't make sense to go to a lower hole to make it have less chassis slap. Maybe I am not understanding 100% I have played with the spring tension and have found I like a couple spots, like you mentioned it depends on what you run in. Grassy areas I like mine a bit softer to get some body roll to handle the tight turns with out flipping, and gravel or loose dirt i like it a bit stiffer. I really think a huge help would be taller tires like someone else mentioned, or longer shocks and the stock tires? Thoughts?
charles gross there’s 2 problems at play here: the front shocks are longer than the rear, and the rear end slaps a lot. The ideal fix is to get longer rear shocks and unscrewing the eyelet helps a little bit, but barring that you need to shorten the front to keep it in balance with the rear. Longer front shocks exacerbates the rear end slapping because the longer shocks will lever the truck onto the rear when landing since they hit first.
So short answer is that you need the truck to land on all fours at the same time, and since you can’t lengthen the rears, you end up having to shorten the fronts.
Preload is more focused on ride height than soften or stiffen the suspension, harder springs is the way to go but don't know if there is any available. Refilling the shocks with thicker oil and hard springs to avoid chassis bottoming out is what I think it would work better, just my thoughts...
@@RazorRC If the rear shocks are shorter why not just switch them around with the front shocks?
@@logitechz3 Preload will soften and stiffen the suspension if you have progressive springs. Your point would be valid only for linear springs. Thicker oil and springs would make the truck bounce around like a ball, so if all you are doing is crazy high jumps then it might help, otherwise with a monster truck you want a soft plush suspension. Also, harder springs could cause the rear to kick up off a jump.
Good thing its build for bashing
great vid, are these the wheel hubs #5353X?
great info and tips
I understand why now people say this things has so much power lol. Its bassicly a fully tight slipper clutch action.
Yup, instant power delivery, I'm a little surprised the plastic axles hold up, guess that cush drive works!
This truck was designed for the widemaxx kit. Its intentionally unstable to make you buy the kit (and to keep rtr price down). Widemaxx completely fixes the handling along with thicker shock oil. Almost revo stable after upgrade.
In your opinion....is it a good vehicle? I'm looking to purchase one. Thinking maybe there is a different RC that handles better? You thoughts?
I just posted a long review video on my channel, it has all my thoughts on the truck.
I got this truck for Christmas and there has just got to be out there almost anything honestly would handle better than this truck I hate it
@@popwall4297 wow. Sorry to hear that. I really enjoy mine. I bought it for hard bashing. Nothing busted yet. Check out Kevin Talbot videos. They beat the crap out of the Maxx and rarely ever do they break.
Great info!! especially the shock fluid but as far as the rest of it goes it’s just a basher🤣
Its a basher. Meant for wheelies and such. If you want a track truck, buy a tekno sct
I have a question my Maxx hasn’t done a single wheelie or reached 50mph yet and I have the traxxas 5000 mah 4s battery and yes it’s in sport mode or the first mode NOT training mode can anyone help out it’s my 2nd day with it
just got mine this week and does the same thing. I called traxxas and now sending motor and esc back to traxxas. Just what I want to do after spending 600 bucks!?!
John Gantner yea you gotta do rma form but they told me just to send the esc no motor
found it. awesome.
Love the videos man but where can I find those traxxas battery adaptors so I can run another brand of lipo?
Amazon has lots of cheap adapters.
@@RazorRC I'm currently running the traxxas 6700 30c 4s battery but what is a better than that as far as brands
Just my opinion, but i want my truck to wheelie and you should modulate the brakes. This is not going to handle like a slash. The maxx is a monster truck for bashing and all around fun. It is not going to handle light and nimble.
Does it come with steel spur gear?
Joshua Rodriguez I saw somewhere it’s plastic but a metal one is only like 15 doll hairs
I notice it flips over a lot so is it the TSM as well?
Mike Guitar Player it’s the HCG chassis
I suggest trying without TSM to find your best medium. I use TSM on my 2wd truck only on the ground and since it's easy to turn on and off, it's worth experimenting. If I jump, no stability management applied.
This isn't the 100% solve for flipping over / traction roll but may help.
Thanks boys!😃
For 588 with tax you should not have to fix all these things on a new truck slash for the win! Lol
good tips
Are you sure about the droop? When you lift one side of the truck up the front and rear tires come off the ground at the exact same time. Doesn't that mean the droop is the same?
put the truck on a stand and measure the tires from the ground. they will be different.
The weird stuff it does in the air turn the TSM off
Remember it's not a race truck it's a basher
Tsm it for stability noting to do with traction
Also for the shocks geometry as a alignment guy I just don’t agree with you
This video is brought to you by Arrma.
…”Arrma. F you Traxxas!”
Lol! Good info though. Thanks.
60wt in front and 70wt in back problem solved....
Gotta give it to Traxxas... even guys like yourself that appreciate and would be better off with a totally tunable and bulletproof awesome e-buggy based monster truck like Tekno Mt410 cannot help themselves and purchase this truck..
It will never be something its NOT easily or cheaply.
It is a truck that looks awesome, puts a smile on your face when you pull the trigger, that your mates are jealous of, with a good worldwide parts support... that's what Traxxas are about and why they are arguably #1 brand in the world...
Awesome job getting people interested in the finer points of rc and your in-depth info... cheers
In my country arrma has better parts Support than Traxxas.
Invasion Nation and why would you come to a Traxxas video to tell us that? Respectfully I hope you and Arrma stay in your country, cause we didn’t ask for nor need either of you here😎
@@chadjohnson438 I don't own an arrma, his point was that traxxas is #1.
Invasion Nation I see. I’m just tired of coming to a Traxxas vid to see some arrma fanboy have let everyone know how he thinks Arrma is so much better than Traxxas. Arrma support and parts were I live is bleak to say the least.
If you don't like how it flips over, maybe you should learn how to drive.
D Hova maybe you should watch me drive the Maxx before saying I don’t know how to drive. ua-cam.com/video/pK0sofy9uS0/v-deo.html
TSM sucks.
Can't say that I disagree.