5 month update! I’ve taken the Dart down the drag strip 20+ passes and over 500 miles on the street. The car launches hard with no vibrations at all. Extremely happy I did this 👍🏻
Everything I found was telling me I'd need to shorten the long side so, I spent A LOT 😬of extra money when I found an A body 8 3/4 ...Wish I would have seen this earlier
Also they used to sell a spring relocation kit that move the springs and stuff over 1 inch I believe, may not be available anymore but I used it on my 68 GTS convertible. The one I'm talking about was offset hangers and front mount
They still sell it. The 8.8 spring perches were originally 39” center to center. I would’ve needed to move the springs in 2” on both sides. I just found it easier and cheaper to move the perches instead.
@@thomasward4505 Doing that would be perfect in conjunction with a mini tub. I’m going to keep the stock wheel wells intact on this guy as I think it’ll make a really fun cruiser after the race. Plus I’m pretty content with squeezing a 10” wide tire under there.
Love to see everyone doing this swap. I've got one in my 64 Falcon and 71 Dart although I shortened the drivers side to make an equal length setup. Keep on with the good work!
Thanks so much for detailing this swap. I'm also in (Orange County here) California where an 8-3/4 is unobtanium.. Even 8-1/4s are cranking up in price.. 8" Ford as a cheap swap? Heh.. Nope.. Not anymore.. My 73 dart with the 8.25 (2.45 rear end.. oof.. 225-1bbl now 225-2bbl and it barely gets out of its way) will cost $$$$$ to regear.. And, with the 7.25 in my 67 valiant while the front is big bolt pattern now? Been looking a while for anything and there just ain't a lot for sale.. And, finding a shop that'll shorten a rear? Tough.. But, even I can yank a rear out of the junkyard... And I do have a dude that'll do perches at least.. (Heck, I could do them with my own welder if I wanted to risk my car versus my perceived level of welding expertise.. lol).. This makes me want to give it a shot now.. Dude, huge thanks again for the inspiration..
No problem man 🤙🏻. Glad it helped. I’ve put about 150 miles on the car and 5 passed down the track since the swap. No vibrations, impeccable stopping power, and it launches out of the hole.
I honestly was wondering why you were swapping in a 8.8. But I read the comments before asking. Wasn't sure if it was the cheapest conversion to disc or if they held up really good. This is what we did growing up, not only for practicality but necessity. The ford alternator and dodge voltage regulator were the cheapest at the parts stores, so that's what we used. Would talk to the log truck drivers on where abandoned vehicles were on the loggin roads and go take parts,bolts,tires what ever it took. Also would go out to the Indian reservations and get parts. We would go talk to Arnie Black and buy parts from him, was years later we found out they weren't really his. Later on he became my inlaw. We laugh about it still today. 🤣 Glad your finding ways to stay in the game and raise a family at the same time! Thought you were in WA with all of the liscence plates
Thanks Eddie! Wasn’t expecting so many people to be angry with this swap. While this was a budget competition, many have no choice and would love to toss in this setup to get to the track. As prices skyrocket and part availability dwindles, people will have to get creative once again in order to keep the hobby alive.
Cool swap. Back in the 70s the trade school that I went to taught us u- joints don't like correcting horizontal and vertical angles at the same time. We where taught to use a plumb bob at the front crank, trans tail shaft, and pinion to make sure they where in line. Then set pinion and trans up and down angle for best spec/performance. Guess I didn't get the updated service bulletin. LOL
I was taught that as well but, always questioned it. The side angle associated with this swap is very minimal. That could be why I haven’t had any issues
Subscribed. Thank-you for sharing. You answered a lot of questions about the offset and sourcing the Spring perchs on Amazon. I just bought a correct 8 3/4 rear end and the price was $3000. The Polara will be getting a Ford 8.8. Thank-you for the information.
measure the polara axle width. there are other options too, like an 8 1/4 out of a jeep liberty (IIRC ~62" wide) or mid '00 grand cherokee (IIRC closer to 64" which is right around C-body width)
nice job, looking at options for replacing my SBP 7 1/4 in my duster. was a little concerned about the pumpkin offset, this relieves my concern.. also looking at a jeep XJ 8 1/4" and a ford ranger axle, which looks to be about an inch narrower than the explorer.
So many people look for the 9” or Dana 60. Thanks to that, these 8.8s are still very cheap and readily accessible. Arguably the most cost effective and capable rear end for a swap.
I did the same swap on my dart. Uncut and have been beating on it with the 440 4 speed for about three years now. Surprising how strong they are! 5200rpm launches on drag radials! Great budget swap!
Not sure how active you are on here, but I have a question about your spring perch placement. You said 43in center of perch to center of perch, which I fully understand. What I didn't hear you mention is placement on the axle. For an over dramatic example you could weld one perch right next to the brake backing plate and be way off on the other side even though it's still 43 inches. Could you elaborate please
Hi Nathan. I maintained equal spacing between the backing plate and perch on each side. Doing this maintained the factory center section offset of about 2”. It’s close to a mopar spec and has proven to be just fine over the past couple of years. No vibrations. I’ve got at least 60 passes with slicks and about 5k miles of normal driving with that axle. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it so far.
I know many people will use the 8.75 shock plates and just pinch the u-bolts a little. Mancini Racing also sells plates for a Dana 60 that work with this axle. The adapter is just a conversion u-joint mating the mopar driveshaft to the 8.8 flange. If you snag the driveshaft from the explorer you’ll be able to use the stock flange
It needs to be a minimum 2deg offset for the u-joint bearings to spin properly. Have swapped out multiple rear diffs in multiple applications. Grew up logging. We would take a frame and rear diffs and graphed them into a truck that blew up a set or needed heavy duty diffs. I knew a guy who took painstaking care to get the diffs in perfect line with the trans output shaft. Only to find out he needed a offset. What a unhappy camper he was !
Just found this video. I Have a ford 9 inch with 3.55's gear. Trying to make it work in a 73 dart sport. Using stock spring mounting perches and brackets. All i have left is to weld the new perches onto the dif. Any ideas to get a good acceptable pinon angle and perch angle? I have the diff resting on the perches on the springs, and going to tack them on once the angle is good. Then i will pull the dif back out, and weld it properly. Any suggestions?
I was thinking about doing the explorer 8.8 swap in my 67 coronet R/T I know the coronet is a b body that's why I haven't purchased the rear differential yet I wasn't sure if I would have the proper wheel&tire clearance at the leaf spring and the outer quarter panel what is your thoughts on the explorer 8.8 in the b body Thank you for any and helpful knowledge
The 8.8 from the explorer is actually a b-body width of 59.5”. It would fit just fine. You would just need to measure where to put your spring perches. Because I left the factory offset, I decreased my pinion angle 1* which was countered by the offset. Rides nice and smooth at 65mph
@@sorta_stock thank you for all information on this swap it sounds like my 69 charger is going to get the same swap it's just crazy what people are asking for the mopar 8 3/4 that needs rebuilt before you even install it
I was looking for a B-body 8.75 but, everything in so cal is just too expensive. For the competition, budget constraints narrowed my choices down to this 8.8 or a truck D60. The 8.8 required the least amount of work and checked all the boxes.
If you were setting up a street car, what angle would you be using? I've been told about 3 degrees for street, what would you set yours? I figure you went 7 because you will be racing and running slicks.
I went 6 down and 1 to the passenger side (due to the 2.1” offset). While I set it up to race, I honestly don’t feel any issues or characteristics of the greater angle.
Had the Dart been equipped with an 8.75, I wouldn’t have touched it. Instead, it came with the toothpick 7.25 so, I had to swap it for the race. If the challenge had a larger budget, I would’ve looked for an 8.75.
@@sorta_stock OK yah I get it now. Im old .We don't pick 8 3/4 on trees anymore and let me know if you find such tree to freely pick! Lol, That's a good video tip thanks for sharing!
also going to do 8.8, even though I have an 8-3/4 housing. Because center chunk would be 1500, axles 350, brakes 575. I'd rather go pull 8.8 from a local junkyard for 300 tops
Whats up man, So I have a 72 Duster with the slant six, picked up 2 8.8 rear ends from the junkyard, I was just going to shorten the longer tube, but now after sseing your video idk which way to do it. So I need to get another driveshaft? Or will my stock one work. Car ia going to be just driven on weekends here and there.
Your Duster has much larger wheel wells and can easily accommodate the full length 8.8. The driveshaft question depends on what trans you have. You can always have a shop shorten your stock one.
@@sorta_stock ohhh ok but the driveshaft is going to be off-centered right? Since I have 2 rear ends might just be easier to cut the longer tube and use the short axle from the second rearend
not to hijack, but this is a good video showing just that, using channel iron as an alignment fixture ua-cam.com/video/mayYpK_aPgM/v-deo.html pt2 ua-cam.com/video/cNlW7TfZYQw/v-deo.html
I wish. It’s a GT V8 vert. One of the previous owners must’ve swapped the hood. If it was a GTS I would’ve just spent the money and bought a 8 3/4 to keep it original.
Well you’ve got to move the spring perches so, there’s some cutting and welding. If you pick up wheels and tires with the correct offset, there’s no shortening required.
Don’t trim that inner lip it’ll separate. Look up how to roll it with a base ball bat and pick up an inch of clearance and never notice it’s been touched. It’s been done for decades. I seen a video of it being done this week on utube .
It sure did. Both my quarters are plagued with cancer so, it doesn’t matter a ton in this case. However, I’ll definitely be rolling them when I’ve got good metal on there
I was helping a friend out with a car many years ago. It was here his girlfriend’s car. Anyways, I helped him put a new clutch in and his mother-in-law said well I’m gonna try to get a used clutch like are you serious a used clutch that doesn’t make sense
8.75 cost around $1,500 here in Cali. A 9.25 takes a lot of work and money to fit into an A-body. The 8.8 is very easy to swap in, can handle a good amount of power, and costs $200 bucks from the junkyard. I did this during a budget build and drag challenge
@@dougkreutz7701 I’ve been beating on this 8.8 hard for over a year without any issues. Easily over 30 passes on drag radials and over 1500 miles on the street. You should look these up. They’re pretty strong.
@sortastockmopars would not waste my time. I'll keep my 8.75 that I bought in 1983 and have 1000s of passes on the street and probably 100000 miles on the diff. Have had it in 2 of my cars. You can keep that Ford junk
@@dougkreutz7701 that’s it right there. You bought it in 1983 when they were affordable. I’d take an 8.75 over an 8.8 any day of the week if they were similarly priced.
@@sorta_stock, the 8-3/4 on my '70 340 4sp Swinger held up perfectly fine. I had an 8-3/4 in a '73 Charger 400 4sp car that had a '69 440 magnum in it. Both were sure grips. Not a single problem and I rosted plenty of tires down to the steel belts. I doubt the 8.8 is any better, in fact I'd put my money on the 8-3/4.
@@jasonwilliams3967 I would also choose the 8.75 if I had one. This dart originally came with the 7.25 toothpick rear end. In CA an A body 8.75 goes for around 1500 bucks. I’ve got less than 300 into this 8.8. Plus, it already comes with disc brakes and the 4.10 LSD.
Not everyone can afford a $1500 A-body 8.75 rear. Did this for a budget build competition and sunk less than $300 into this swap. Better on the road with whatever parts as opposed to rotting in the junkyard.
This was a 3k budget build for a competition. People equate 8.75 rear ends as gold here in CA. Can’t find an 8.75 for under 1k. This 8.8 was under $300 complete
How about saving $1,000? Because that’s how much I saved on this. Not including what disc brakes would’ve cost for the 8.75. Plus, this was for a budget drag challenge.
Why would you do that an eight. 84 differential is a piece of dog shit 8-3/4 is a great differential and they came in a body cars finding one is not real hard and it bolts right in and it is way better than an 8.8 Ford why would you put that garbage in a nice mopar
31 spline 8.8s are solid up until about 500hp. 8.75 rears ends go for about 1500 here in CA. Paid less than 300 for this 8.8 with the disc brakes already on it. Did this for the 3k budget challenge the car was in.
$250 bucks for an lsd, 4.10, and disc brakes. That’s $2000 for a matching 8.75. Both the 31 spline 8.8 and the 8.75 can handle the same amount of power. When on a budget, the 8.8 is the way to go
5 month update! I’ve taken the Dart down the drag strip 20+ passes and over 500 miles on the street. The car launches hard with no vibrations at all. Extremely happy I did this 👍🏻
Everything I found was telling me I'd need to shorten the long side so, I spent A LOT 😬of extra money when I found an A body 8 3/4 ...Wish I would have seen this earlier
What did you end up going with for a drive shaft
Also they used to sell a spring relocation kit that move the springs and stuff over 1 inch I believe, may not be available anymore but I used it on my 68 GTS convertible. The one I'm talking about was offset hangers and front mount
They still sell it. The 8.8 spring perches were originally 39” center to center. I would’ve needed to move the springs in 2” on both sides. I just found it easier and cheaper to move the perches instead.
@@sorta_stock well I think that would have given you more tire clearance inwards
@@thomasward4505 Doing that would be perfect in conjunction with a mini tub. I’m going to keep the stock wheel wells intact on this guy as I think it’ll make a really fun cruiser after the race. Plus I’m pretty content with squeezing a 10” wide tire under there.
@@sorta_stockwhere is this kit available?
I liked the 8.8 swap.
Gears plus disc brakes in one swap.
Also I subscribed your channel.
Great content.
Thank you, EM.
Thanks Ed! I appreciate the support.
Love to see everyone doing this swap. I've got one in my 64 Falcon and 71 Dart although I shortened the drivers side to make an equal length setup. Keep on with the good work!
no keep you mopar ALL MOPAR
Thanks so much for detailing this swap. I'm also in (Orange County here) California where an 8-3/4 is unobtanium.. Even 8-1/4s are cranking up in price.. 8" Ford as a cheap swap? Heh.. Nope.. Not anymore.. My 73 dart with the 8.25 (2.45 rear end.. oof.. 225-1bbl now 225-2bbl and it barely gets out of its way) will cost $$$$$ to regear.. And, with the 7.25 in my 67 valiant while the front is big bolt pattern now? Been looking a while for anything and there just ain't a lot for sale.. And, finding a shop that'll shorten a rear? Tough.. But, even I can yank a rear out of the junkyard... And I do have a dude that'll do perches at least.. (Heck, I could do them with my own welder if I wanted to risk my car versus my perceived level of welding expertise.. lol).. This makes me want to give it a shot now.. Dude, huge thanks again for the inspiration..
No problem man 🤙🏻. Glad it helped. I’ve put about 150 miles on the car and 5 passed down the track since the swap. No vibrations, impeccable stopping power, and it launches out of the hole.
I honestly was wondering why you were swapping in a 8.8. But I read the comments before asking. Wasn't sure if it was the cheapest conversion to disc or if they held up really good.
This is what we did growing up, not only for practicality but necessity.
The ford alternator and dodge voltage regulator were the cheapest at the parts stores, so that's what we used.
Would talk to the log truck drivers on where abandoned vehicles were on the loggin roads and go take parts,bolts,tires what ever it took.
Also would go out to the Indian reservations and get parts. We would go talk to Arnie Black and buy parts from him, was years later we found out they weren't really his. Later on he became my inlaw. We laugh about it still today. 🤣
Glad your finding ways to stay in the game and raise a family at the same time!
Thought you were in WA with all of the liscence plates
Thanks Eddie! Wasn’t expecting so many people to be angry with this swap. While this was a budget competition, many have no choice and would love to toss in this setup to get to the track. As prices skyrocket and part availability dwindles, people will have to get creative once again in order to keep the hobby alive.
Cool swap. Back in the 70s the trade school that I went to taught us u- joints don't like correcting horizontal and vertical angles at the same time. We where taught to use a plumb bob at the front crank, trans tail shaft, and pinion to make sure they where in line. Then set pinion and trans up and down angle for best spec/performance. Guess I didn't get the updated service bulletin. LOL
I was taught that as well but, always questioned it. The side angle associated with this swap is very minimal. That could be why I haven’t had any issues
Subscribed. Thank-you for sharing. You answered a lot of questions about the offset and sourcing the Spring perchs on Amazon. I just bought a correct 8 3/4 rear end and the price was $3000. The Polara will be getting a Ford 8.8. Thank-you for the information.
No problem. Glad I could help. Swapping in the 8.8 was one of the best mods I’ve done to the Dart so far. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it.
measure the polara axle width. there are other options too, like an 8 1/4 out of a jeep liberty (IIRC ~62" wide) or mid '00 grand cherokee (IIRC closer to 64" which is right around C-body width)
Watch out for the locator hole on those perches , they may be too large and need a bushing welded in to make them fit correctly.
Ok , so you already knew about that !!
nice job, looking at options for replacing my SBP 7 1/4 in my duster. was a little concerned about the pumpkin offset, this relieves my concern.. also looking at a jeep XJ 8 1/4" and a ford ranger axle, which looks to be about an inch narrower than the explorer.
I put the 8.8 rear end from a 96 Cobra, into my 1970 Maverick. I had to do all the same stuff. it fits Beautifully. Now I have disc brakes all around.
So many people look for the 9” or Dana 60. Thanks to that, these 8.8s are still very cheap and readily accessible. Arguably the most cost effective and capable rear end for a swap.
I did the same swap on my dart. Uncut and have been beating on it with the 440 4 speed for about three years now. Surprising how strong they are! 5200rpm launches on drag radials! Great budget swap!
Thanks man! I’m really excited to see how it performs
Left the right? The housing as a whole is centered. The diff is offset just a little bit I've had mine in for 7 ish years and no issues.
I have one of these for my B Body, 3.73 posi with disc brakes.
The 3.73 LSD would make an excellent street combo behind a 727. Enough gear to launch yet, still be able to cruise
Not sure how active you are on here, but I have a question about your spring perch placement. You said 43in center of perch to center of perch, which I fully understand. What I didn't hear you mention is placement on the axle. For an over dramatic example you could weld one perch right next to the brake backing plate and be way off on the other side even though it's still 43 inches. Could you elaborate please
Hi Nathan. I maintained equal spacing between the backing plate and perch on each side. Doing this maintained the factory center section offset of about 2”. It’s close to a mopar spec and has proven to be just fine over the past couple of years. No vibrations. I’ve got at least 60 passes with slicks and about 5k miles of normal driving with that axle. It’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it so far.
Just an 8 3/4😊
Cool. You guys gonna finish in time?
Oh yeah. Wouldn’t miss an opportunity to stomp on a big block 😬
@@sorta_stock lol
Thanks big help
Can you post a link to the spring perches you used?
Sweet! What does the diff to shaft adapter look like and where to buy? Also can you use Mopar shock plates or naw?
I know many people will use the 8.75 shock plates and just pinch the u-bolts a little. Mancini Racing also sells plates for a Dana 60 that work with this axle. The adapter is just a conversion u-joint mating the mopar driveshaft to the 8.8 flange. If you snag the driveshaft from the explorer you’ll be able to use the stock flange
@@sorta_stock Ahhhh good stuff thanks!
Curious what trans you have and what you had to do to hook it up with adapter, yolk etc. to get it put together
727 with a conversion u-joint. 7260 to 1350
❤ Your channel I have a question I have a 1976 Dodge dart swinger A Body can I install 8.8 rear end
You sure can 👍🏻. Your ‘76 is the same A-body platform as my ‘68
It needs to be a minimum 2deg offset for the u-joint bearings to spin properly. Have swapped out multiple rear diffs in multiple applications.
Grew up logging. We would take a frame and rear diffs and graphed them into a truck that blew up a set or needed heavy duty diffs.
I knew a guy who took painstaking care to get the diffs in perfect line with the trans output shaft. Only to find out he needed a offset. What a unhappy camper he was !
Just found this video. I Have a ford 9 inch with 3.55's gear. Trying to make it work in a 73 dart sport. Using stock spring mounting perches and brackets. All i have left is to weld the new perches onto the dif. Any ideas to get a good acceptable pinon angle and perch angle? I have the diff resting on the perches on the springs, and going to tack them on once the angle is good. Then i will pull the dif back out, and weld it properly. Any suggestions?
I was thinking about doing the explorer 8.8 swap in my 67 coronet R/T I know the coronet is a b body that's why I haven't purchased the rear differential yet I wasn't sure if I would have the proper wheel&tire clearance at the leaf spring and the outer quarter panel what is your thoughts on the explorer 8.8 in the b body
Thank you for any and helpful knowledge
The 8.8 from the explorer is actually a b-body width of 59.5”. It would fit just fine. You would just need to measure where to put your spring perches. Because I left the factory offset, I decreased my pinion angle 1* which was countered by the offset. Rides nice and smooth at 65mph
Thank you for the quick reply on the explorer diff now it's time to start shopping
@@kevinhumphrey932 if you look for the 97-02 Eddie Bauer edition it’ll come with either a 3.73 or 4.10 LSD 👍🏻
@@sorta_stock thank you for all information on this swap it sounds like my 69 charger is going to get the same swap it's just crazy what people are asking for the mopar 8 3/4 that needs rebuilt before you even install it
Interesting swap
I was looking for a B-body 8.75 but, everything in so cal is just too expensive. For the competition, budget constraints narrowed my choices down to this 8.8 or a truck D60. The 8.8 required the least amount of work and checked all the boxes.
If you were setting up a street car, what angle would you be using? I've been told about 3 degrees for street, what would you set yours? I figure you went 7 because you will be racing and running slicks.
I went 6 down and 1 to the passenger side (due to the 2.1” offset). While I set it up to race, I honestly don’t feel any issues or characteristics of the greater angle.
What did you use for spring i bolts and plate and can you do a 15 inch wheel?
I snagged the explorer U bolts and shock plates when I pulled this axle out of the yard. 15” wheels would be tight but, definitely fit.
@@sorta_stock I got one from the guy I need the other and won't be able to get it so gotta figure unbolt and plates
For the bottom
@@sorta_stock I thought explorers had 15s?
What did you end up with for the length of your drive shaft
That is a great question. I don’t remember off the top of my head. When I get the car back from the body shop I’ll measure it.
Do I need a 4x4 rear end or 2wd? And what years do I need to look for? I’m needing a new rear for my 72 Demon.
Either will work. 97-99 are the best
Lotta work to replace a 8 3/4 Mopar center chuck? You rather do this? Not being an asset just wondering.
Had the Dart been equipped with an 8.75, I wouldn’t have touched it. Instead, it came with the toothpick 7.25 so, I had to swap it for the race. If the challenge had a larger budget, I would’ve looked for an 8.75.
@@sorta_stock OK yah I get it now. Im old .We don't pick 8 3/4 on trees anymore and let me know if you find such tree to freely pick! Lol,
That's a good video tip thanks for sharing!
also going to do 8.8, even though I have an 8-3/4 housing. Because center chunk would be 1500, axles 350, brakes 575. I'd rather go pull 8.8 from a local junkyard for 300 tops
Whats up man, So I have a 72 Duster with the slant six, picked up 2 8.8 rear ends from the junkyard, I was just going to shorten the longer tube, but now after sseing your video idk which way to do it. So I need to get another driveshaft? Or will my stock one work. Car ia going to be just driven on weekends here and there.
Your Duster has much larger wheel wells and can easily accommodate the full length 8.8. The driveshaft question depends on what trans you have. You can always have a shop shorten your stock one.
@@sorta_stock ohhh ok but the driveshaft is going to be off-centered right? Since I have 2 rear ends might just be easier to cut the longer tube and use the short axle from the second rearend
@@sorta_stock It is just the ole 3speed 3 on the tree transmission
not to hijack, but this is a good video showing just that, using channel iron as an alignment fixture ua-cam.com/video/mayYpK_aPgM/v-deo.html pt2 ua-cam.com/video/cNlW7TfZYQw/v-deo.html
Is that an original GTS convertible?
I wish. It’s a GT V8 vert. One of the previous owners must’ve swapped the hood. If it was a GTS I would’ve just spent the money and bought a 8 3/4 to keep it original.
I have a 71 dart with a 7.25. So an 8.8 will go right in no cutting or shortening?
Well you’ve got to move the spring perches so, there’s some cutting and welding. If you pick up wheels and tires with the correct offset, there’s no shortening required.
@@sorta_stock thank you. I figured about the perches . Appreciate the info
93-up rangers are narrower by an inch, but don't come with disc brakes. fox body mustangs are the same width as the rangers, but lots were 4 lug.
New sub! Liked 🙏👍❤️
Don’t trim that inner lip it’ll separate. Look up how to roll it with a base ball bat and pick up an inch of clearance and never notice it’s been touched. It’s been done for decades. I seen a video of it being done this week on utube .
It sure did. Both my quarters are plagued with cancer so, it doesn’t matter a ton in this case. However, I’ll definitely be rolling them when I’ve got good metal on there
@@sorta_stock it worked better than u will believe but use a wooden bat on metal u care about. MOPAR2YA 😎
I was helping a friend out with a car many years ago. It was here his girlfriend’s car. Anyways, I helped him put a new clutch in and his mother-in-law said well I’m gonna try to get a used clutch like are you serious a used clutch that doesn’t make sense
Great video. It's good for the wallet like you said.
Why?
Budget competition. An 8.75 alone is worth more than I had to spend for the race.
Chrysler 8 1/4 and 8 3/4 are strong enough for the job and an easier swap
Just 6 times the cost
Why not put an 8.75 or a 9.25 in it and keep it Dodge
8.75 cost around $1,500 here in Cali. A 9.25 takes a lot of work and money to fit into an A-body. The 8.8 is very easy to swap in, can handle a good amount of power, and costs $200 bucks from the junkyard. I did this during a budget build and drag challenge
@sortastockmopars you get what you pay for. My advice maybe buy 2 or 3 of the Ford rear ends. You'll probably need them.
@@dougkreutz7701 I’ve been beating on this 8.8 hard for over a year without any issues. Easily over 30 passes on drag radials and over 1500 miles on the street. You should look these up. They’re pretty strong.
@sortastockmopars would not waste my time. I'll keep my 8.75 that I bought in 1983 and have 1000s of passes on the street and probably 100000 miles on the diff. Have had it in 2 of my cars. You can keep that Ford junk
@@dougkreutz7701 that’s it right there. You bought it in 1983 when they were affordable. I’d take an 8.75 over an 8.8 any day of the week if they were similarly priced.
S60
👍💪
Prety soon you will be swapping Toyota rear ends to classic American cars
Maybe even a Tesla rear end 🤔
Why would you want to...?
To save $1000 bucks…or more actually.
@@sorta_stock, the 8-3/4 on my '70 340 4sp Swinger held up perfectly fine. I had an 8-3/4 in a '73 Charger 400 4sp car that had a '69 440 magnum in it. Both were sure grips. Not a single problem and I rosted plenty of tires down to the steel belts. I doubt the 8.8 is any better, in fact I'd put my money on the 8-3/4.
@@jasonwilliams3967 I would also choose the 8.75 if I had one. This dart originally came with the 7.25 toothpick rear end. In CA an A body 8.75 goes for around 1500 bucks. I’ve got less than 300 into this 8.8. Plus, it already comes with disc brakes and the 4.10 LSD.
Why would you ever want to ruin any Mopar with a part off of a ford?
Not everyone can afford a $1500 A-body 8.75 rear. Did this for a budget build competition and sunk less than $300 into this swap. Better on the road with whatever parts as opposed to rotting in the junkyard.
Shit. If you have any extra rear ends laying around, I'll give you $600 dollars for one!
Lol I wish! The 8.8s are still plentiful here in CA. Paid $260 bucks for the complete rear out of a PickNPull yard
Replace it now you are better off now save head aches down the road
Why would you want a pile of scrap Ford rear-end in a Mopar. Get an 8.75 instead and stick with a rear that came in a Mopar.
This was a 3k budget build for a competition. People equate 8.75 rear ends as gold here in CA. Can’t find an 8.75 for under 1k. This 8.8 was under $300 complete
Sad what people do to save a buck these days?????
How about saving $1,000? Because that’s how much I saved on this. Not including what disc brakes would’ve cost for the 8.75. Plus, this was for a budget drag challenge.
Dumb idea 🤬 why not just use an 8.75 molar rear that’s plentiful…….waste of time and money for your swap
Because they’re not plentiful or cheap here in California.
Why would you do that an eight. 84 differential is a piece of dog shit 8-3/4 is a great differential and they came in a body cars finding one is not real hard and it bolts right in and it is way better than an 8.8 Ford why would you put that garbage in a nice mopar
31 spline 8.8s are solid up until about 500hp. 8.75 rears ends go for about 1500 here in CA. Paid less than 300 for this 8.8 with the disc brakes already on it. Did this for the 3k budget challenge the car was in.
Why?
$250 bucks for an lsd, 4.10, and disc brakes. That’s $2000 for a matching 8.75. Both the 31 spline 8.8 and the 8.75 can handle the same amount of power. When on a budget, the 8.8 is the way to go