Crusty Colt Boiling and Carding
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- The first boil/card on the Crusty Colt. That purdy color is starting to show.
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You’ve probably found that your carding brush works better at around 800rpm instead of that fast, and I boil at least 10 minutes. My big lessons learned are, always boil in clean water, never put cold parts in a humidity box “your metal will look like your shower door”, 2-3 hours of rusting time is best to get a finer grained finish, and sanding to 220 to 320 grit is all you need for a satin smooth finish. And make sure you get all the scratches from courser grits or files out or they will stand out like a liberal on a deer hunt.
I've heard from experts that you should be carding the cover plate on the revolver frame, not separately. The sharp edges catch the carding bristles and applies more force to a smaller point like that, removing the finish and leaving a brighter line along the edge.
You need to boil it at least 10 to 15 minutes to fully convert the oxidation
Good call switching up the plan...should look great! Looking forward to the finished product.
You probably made the right call going with a more brushed finish.
A rust blue will always come out with about a 220 grit finish. Polishing past 320 is a waste of time.
Did you ever finish this build? Just went through the rest of the playlist, was looking forward to seeing this thing finished.
Man this was forever ago, I did end up finishing the gun. I ended up buying a 70's Python so I didn't need the Trooper and traded it off.
do you do black oxide(hot chemical blueing) also?
Folks don't get too stuck on using special carding wheels, it can be done with those regular 5" crimped wheels you find at the hardware store.
I do have real carding wheels too and I do use them as well, makes it easier on complex parts, but way before I got those I did all my carding on regular wire wheels (and I still use them), just make sure the regular wheels are WELL USED as new they are rather abrasive. I can card with regular wheels with the drill press set to full speed without a problem and by the way the 400 RPM limitation on the wheels as used in this video is a limitation for the wheel itself not because it would do any damage to your parts if you ran it on full speed. If you run those wheels too fast they will start shedding bristles, they could even disintegrate.
I have been using my drill press for wire brushing for years, also for polishing with mops, there is nothing better in my opinion, I can get much better control using wheels horizontally than vertically. I have been doing metal finishing for years, from polishing, blueing, to plating so I am telling you all this from experience.
You do need a VERY LIGHT TOUCH when using regular wire wheels for carding, just gently rest the part against the wheel, don't use force.
Blueing is extremely hard and it does take some force to remove it with wire wheels, so don't be shy and try some cheap wheels, do it on some tools you want to blue before going on to expensive toys, it helps to have some experience and confidence.
The way I remove old blueing is by fuming over hydrochloric acid, it removes blueing instantly, there is not need in using aggressive methods such as an acid bath. Open your bottle of acid and simply run the part over the open spout. Once done drop the part in some water with a bit of bicarb soda to stop the reaction. Wear rubber gloves as the fumes will burn your skin and don't forget to close the bottle once done as if you forget by the next day you will have successfully rusted any and all steel in your workshop.
Hey buddy, did you delete the video where you actually “rust” this piece?
Doesn't look like it's up any longer. I'll see if I can find it. It's about time I do another rust blue video anyway. What do you think about a Browning A5 this time?
@@BabyFaceP sounds great