The data appears to show either the paper filters being more effective at filtering particles and the dry guglatech filtering more than the oiled - why oil the guglatech at that point?
Good question. Not an easy answer. Paper filters do a good job of filtering, up to a point. When they get dirty the only solution is to replace them. No, you can't blow them out with an air hose and expect them to be "good as new". In fact, when you blow them you damage the paper and open up large holes that allow contamination to pass. When an oiled filter (of any type) gets clogged, they have an advantage in that they can be cleaned and returned to service. Over time the cost-benefits favor oiled filters. Now to the question of oiling a Guglatech filter. A dry Gug filter is almost as effective as a dry paper filter, but when you oil it you make each fiber into a sticky piece of fly-paper. Dirt sticks to the oil. Filtration improves. Why is a Gug better than other oiled filters? It comes down to uniformity of fiber mass. In a cloth oiled filter like K&N, there are large voids scattered throughout. Dirt gets past the filter because it goes thru those holes. the same is true for oiled foam. Microscopic views of foam show huge voids connected to other huge voids. Air seeks path of least resistance, and it finds those huge voids and carries dirty air into the engine. It is possible to "over-oil" a Gug filter? Yes, too much oil and the air is blocked. Too much oil and the air will force a passage, opening up voids you don't want. So when you oil a Gug filter, do it on one side only. Allow the oil to do the sticky fly-paper thing, but allow the uniform mesh of the fibers to do their thing.
Much better product review, I slated you in the first video as it didn’t make sense to me, have deleted those comments, as they were out of line This clip is really good, not only did you test the filters, but you took the time to explain the results and differences in filters, this is what was missing in the first one. Only couple of questions, no I am not biased just want the best filter, Do you think that Uniflows recommendation for the pre filters( that come with every filter) would affect the result. And really novice one, the auction side of an F800 has two pipes, uni has two chambers would this affect results, yes I am trying hard to not feel my bloody expensive filter is the best, a lot more for a uni in Aus than the prices you quoted Well done guys am a convert and happy to eat some humble pie after my out of line comments on the first clip, do you ship to Aus, Please
Thanks for removing the post on Part 1. Note that we are going to be making another film, Part III, in which we address a few more issues, including various air filter oils. We consulted with a former K&N expert (head of R&D) and came up with some new ideas that should make things interesting. Stay tuned. A Uni pre-filter WILL remove a certain amount of contamination before it ever gets to the main Uni filter. Of course, when you add another layer of filtering material that has an inevitable effect on air flow. To be perfectly honest, there's so much vacuum created by the engine that air flow will be maintained up to a certain point, that point being where the filter is totally clogged, and then engine performance will suffer. Or, worse... As a filter gets clogged, the vacuum from the engine will suck so hard that it will pull contamination right out of the filter and into the engine, and it may even pull bits of foam along with it. Neither one is good. If I understand the design of the Uni pre-filters, they fit into the two intake snorkels. If you religiously removed and cleaned them after every ride (or multiple times during a dusty ride), that would keep a lot of contamination from reaching the main filter. So, yes, those pre-filters improve the Uni performance to a degree. This is a theory only. HOWEVER, the Achilles heel of the Uni is that the open pores of the roam are so large that they still allow small bits to pass thru the pre-filter AND the main filter). IOW, the Uni foam allows more contamination than the other filters we tested. So adding another layer of Uni pre-filter won't necessarily solve your problem. On the positive side, the pre-filters are something you can pull every day, without having to remove the tank panels. We're not gonna test a Uni pre-filter because it's outside the realm of our study. We were intent on testing filters that fit inside the airbox, only.
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Great job, thanks for doing it!
The data appears to show either the paper filters being more effective at filtering particles and the dry guglatech filtering more than the oiled - why oil the guglatech at that point?
Good question. Not an easy answer. Paper filters do a good job of filtering, up to a point. When they get dirty the only solution is to replace them. No, you can't blow them out with an air hose and expect them to be "good as new". In fact, when you blow them you damage the paper and open up large holes that allow contamination to pass.
When an oiled filter (of any type) gets clogged, they have an advantage in that they can be cleaned and returned to service. Over time the cost-benefits favor oiled filters.
Now to the question of oiling a Guglatech filter. A dry Gug filter is almost as effective as a dry paper filter, but when you oil it you make each fiber into a sticky piece of fly-paper. Dirt sticks to the oil. Filtration improves.
Why is a Gug better than other oiled filters? It comes down to uniformity of fiber mass. In a cloth oiled filter like K&N, there are large voids scattered throughout. Dirt gets past the filter because it goes thru those holes. the same is true for oiled foam. Microscopic views of foam show huge voids connected to other huge voids. Air seeks path of least resistance, and it finds those huge voids and carries dirty air into the engine.
It is possible to "over-oil" a Gug filter? Yes, too much oil and the air is blocked. Too much oil and the air will force a passage, opening up voids you don't want. So when you oil a Gug filter, do it on one side only. Allow the oil to do the sticky fly-paper thing, but allow the uniform mesh of the fibers to do their thing.
Hahaha! Nice work guys!
Much better product review, I slated you in the first video as it didn’t make sense to me, have deleted those comments, as they were out of line
This clip is really good, not only did you test the filters, but you took the time to explain the results and differences in filters, this is what was missing in the first one.
Only couple of questions, no I am not biased just want the best filter,
Do you think that Uniflows recommendation for the pre filters( that come with every filter) would affect the result.
And really novice one, the auction side of an F800 has two pipes, uni has two chambers would this affect results, yes I am trying hard to not feel my bloody expensive filter is the best, a lot more for a uni in Aus than the prices you quoted
Well done guys am a convert and happy to eat some humble pie after my out of line comments on the first clip,
do you ship to Aus, Please
Thanks for removing the post on Part 1.
Note that we are going to be making another film, Part III, in which we address a few more issues, including various air filter oils. We consulted with a former K&N expert (head of R&D) and came up with some new ideas that should make things interesting. Stay tuned.
A Uni pre-filter WILL remove a certain amount of contamination before it ever gets to the main Uni filter. Of course, when you add another layer of filtering material that has an inevitable effect on air flow. To be perfectly honest, there's so much vacuum created by the engine that air flow will be maintained up to a certain point, that point being where the filter is totally clogged, and then engine performance will suffer. Or, worse...
As a filter gets clogged, the vacuum from the engine will suck so hard that it will pull contamination right out of the filter and into the engine, and it may even pull bits of foam along with it. Neither one is good.
If I understand the design of the Uni pre-filters, they fit into the two intake snorkels. If you religiously removed and cleaned them after every ride (or multiple times during a dusty ride), that would keep a lot of contamination from reaching the main filter. So, yes, those pre-filters improve the Uni performance to a degree. This is a theory only.
HOWEVER, the Achilles heel of the Uni is that the open pores of the roam are so large that they still allow small bits to pass thru the pre-filter AND the main filter). IOW, the Uni foam allows more contamination than the other filters we tested. So adding another layer of Uni pre-filter won't necessarily solve your problem. On the positive side, the pre-filters are something you can pull every day, without having to remove the tank panels.
We're not gonna test a Uni pre-filter because it's outside the realm of our study. We were intent on testing filters that fit inside the airbox, only.